


:l '■<;''. I': 



iUi«t'-;: 






■I *'M '»! 

■ ; I , : ■ , 



irV 









.1 .,(,. 



'.'■ .ill;' lMi',*/^^i • .(■ I 

i';'-:";w-"M;:Ki;;i:,:li|i;wi-" 







m^B 




Class T/n 
Book 



■V C^ i . {r^ 



Goipglit}!"- 



COEVRICHT DEPOSIT. 



Subsctiption Price, 92.00 Fef Aaattta. FebruaTy, 1896. 

THE ' 

PRESIDENTIAL ^ 




ADAPTED FROM 



THE WHITE HOUSE 

COOK BOOK 




CHICA.QO NBW YORK 

THE ^STKRNER COMPANY 



THE 

PRESIDENTIAL 



2 Cook Book 



^-=^^^»^-— > 



v\ 



ADAPTED PROW 



THE WHITE HOUSE 

COOK BODK 




^'"'•^ ojL 



CHICAGO MBJ-W YORK 

THE -WERNER COMPANY 






Copyright, ib95, by 
THE WERNER COMPANY. 




SMs ia^0Xwmje 
Js attjectiowaMaj djedicatied 

—BY THE AUTHOR. 

J/ 



Publishers' Preface. 

IN presenting to the public that great kitchen encyclopedia, "The White 
House Cook Book," we stated in our preface that we believed the book 
more fully represented the progress and present perfection of the cul- 
inary art than any other work. This strong assertion was subsequently 
attested by the enormous sale of the book, it having gained a wider circula- 
tion than ever before accorded a cook book. What we then claimed for the 
"White House" we now claim for the "Presidential," in so far as the vitally 
important points of the book are concerned, comprising, as it does, most of 
the matter originally published in the "White House Cook Book." 

The "Presidential Cook Book" may be said to be a revision of the neces- 
sarily higher priced "White House," a condensed volume in complete prac- 
tical form, but containing all the most important recipes of the latter, and 
more easily within reach of the masses in point of price. 

The authors of the "White House Cook Book," from which is compiled 
the "Presidential," were that world-famous chef, Hugo Ziemann, steward 
of the White House under the Harrison administration, and Mrs. F. L. 
Gillette, also of national fame. 

Hugo Ziemann was at one time caterer for that Prince Napoleon who 
was killed while fighting the Zulus in Africa. He was afterwards steward 
of the famous Hotel Splendide in Paris. Later he conducted the celebrated 
Brunswick Cafe in New York, and still later he gave to the Hotel Richelieu 
in Chicago, a cuisine which won the applause of even the gourmets of foreign 
lands. Mrs. F. L. Gillette is no less proficient and capable, having made a 
life-long and thorough study of cookery and housekeeping, especially as 
adapted to the practical wants of average American homes. 

The "Presidential" has been prepared with great care. Every recipe 
has been tried and tested, and can be relied upon as one of the best of its 
kind. It fills the requirements of housekeepers of all classes. It embodies 
several original and commendable features, among which may be mentioned 
the convenient classification and arrangement of topics; the simplified 
method of explanation in preparing an article, in the order of manipulation, 
thereby enabling the most inexperienced to clearly comprehend it. The sub- 
ject of carving has been given a prominent place, not only because of its 
special importance in a work of this kind, but particularly because it con- 
tains entirely new and original designs, and is so far a departure from the 
usual mode of treating the subject. 

The PoBiiisHEES. 



;=^c^^ 



PAGE. 

Carving 1 

Soups, 21 

Fish, 41 

Shell Fish . . . .57 

Poultry and Game, 70 

Meats, 94 

Mutton and Lamb, 120 

Pork .127 

Sauces and Dressing- for Meats and Fish, 138 

Salads, ; . . 149 

Catsups, .............. 156 

Pickles 159 

Vegetables, • 169 

Macaroni, 192 

Butter and Cheese, . 194 

Eggs, 199 

Omelets, , . 203 

Sandwiches, . . . . . . 209 

Bread .211 

Biscuits, Rolls, Muffins, etc., 221 

Toast, 246 

Cakes, 251 

Pastry, Pies and Tarts, 284 

Custards, Cream and Desserts 305 

Ice Cream and Ices, 334 

Dumplings and Puddings, 339 

Sauces for Puddings, 371 

Preserves, Jellies, etc., 376 

Canned Fruits, '. . 389 

Coloring for Fruit and Confectionery, 395 

Confectionery, 397 

Coffee, Tea and Beverages, 408 

Preparations for the Sick, 410 

French Words in Cooking, 420 

Miscellaneous, 421 

Small Points on Table Etiquette, 421 

Dinner-giving, ............. 425 

Measures and Weights in ordinary use, 429 




C^iy-iryT^^ c/c.iri^ ^^^^ro^^i-rx^ti^iri,. 



W^iUe §@use QmX Ba©^. 



CARVING. 

Carving is one important acquisition in the routine of daily living, and afl, 
should try to attain a knowledge or abihty to do it well, and withal gracefully. 

When carving use a chair slightly higher than the ordinary size, as it gives 
a better purchase on the meat, and appears more graceful than when standing, 
as is often quite necessary when carving a turkey, or a very large joint. More 
depends on skill than strength. The platter should be placed opposite, and 
sufficiently near to give perfect command of the article to be carved, the knife 
of medium size, sharp with a keen edge. Commence by cutting the slices thin, 
laying them carefuUy to one side of the platter, then afterwards placing the 
desired amount on each guest's plate, to be served in turn by the servant. 

In carving fish, care should be taken to help it in perfect flakes; for if these 
are broken the beauty of the fish is lost. The carver should acquaint himself 
with the choicest parts and morsels; and to give each guest an equal share of 
those tidbits should be his maxim. Steel knives and forks should on no account 
be used in helping fish, as these are liable to impart a very disagreeable flavor. 
A. fish-trowel of sUver or plated silver is the proper article to use. 

Gravies should be sent to the table very hot, and in helping one to gravy or 
melted butter, place it on a vacant side of the plate; not pour it over their meat, 
fish or fowl, that they may use only as much as they like. 

When serving fowls, or meat, accompanied with stufiing, the guests should 
be asked if they would have a portion, as it is not every one to whom the flavor 
of stuffing is agreeable; in filling their plates, avoid heaping one thing upon 
another, as it mak^ a bad appearance. 

A word about the care of carving knives: a fine st^el knife should not come in 
contact with intense heat, because it destroys its temper, and therefore impairs 
its cutting qualities. Table carving knives should not be used in the kitchen, 
either around the stove, or for cutting bread, meats, vegetables, etc.; a fine 
whetstone shoidd be kept for sharpening, and the knife cleaned careful^ to 
avoid dulling its edge, all of which is quite essential to successful carving. 



< 



BEEF, 




BEEF. 

Hind-Quarter. 

No. 1. Used for choice roasts, the porter-house and sirlom steaks. 

No. 2, Rump, used for steaks, stews and corned beef. 

No. 3. Aitch-bone, used for boiling-pieces, stews and pot roasts. 

No. 4. Buttock or round, used for steaks, pot roasts, beef 6, la mode; also a prime 

boihag-piece. 
No. 5. Mouse round, used for boiling and stewing. 
No. 6. Shin or leg, used for soups, hashes, etc. 
No. 7. Thick flank, cut with under fat, is a prime boiling piece, good for stews 

and corned beef, pressed beef. 
No. 8. Veiny piece, used for corned beef, dried beef. 
No. 9. Thin flank, xised for corned beef and boiling-pieces. 



Fore-Quarter. 

No. 10. Five ribs called the fore-rib. This is considered the primest piece for 

roasting; also makes the finest steaks. 
No. 11. Four ribs, called the middle ribs, used for roasting. 
No. 12. Chuck ribs, used for second quality of roasts and steaks. 
No. 13. Brisket, used for corned beef, stews, soups and spiced beef. 
No. li. Shoulder-piece, used for stews, soups, pot-roasts, mince-meat, andhashfi& 



BEEF. 3 

Nob. 16, 16. Neck, dod or sticking-piece, used for stocks, gravies, soups, mtoce* 

pie meat, hashes, bologna sausages, etc. 
Ko. 17. Shin or shank, used mostly for soups and stewing. 
No. 18. Cheek. 

The following is a classification of the qualities of meat, according to the 
several joints of beef, when cut up. 

First Class. — Includes the sirloin with the kidney suet (1), the rump steak 
piece (2), the forerib (11). 

Second Class. — The buttock or round (4), the thick flank (7), the middle 
ribs (11). 

T%ird Class. — ^The ail ch-bone (3), the mouse-round (5), the thin flank (8, 9), 
the chuck (12),- the shoulder piece (14), the brisket (13). 

Fourth Class. — The clod, neck and sticking piece (15, 16.) 

^fth Class.— Shin or shank (17). 




VEAL. 




VEAL. 



Hind-Quarter. 



No. 1. Loin, the choicest cuts used for roasts and chops. 

No. 2. Fillet, used for roasts and cutlets. 

No. 3. Loin, chump-end used for roasts and chops. 

No. 4. The hind-knuckle or hock, used for stews, pot- pies, meat-pie& 



Fore -Quarter. 

No. 5. Neck, best end used for roasts, stews and chops. 
No. 6. Breast, best end used for roasting, stews and chops 
No. 7. Blade-bone, used for pot roasts and baked dishes. 
No. 8. Fore knuckle, used for soups and stews. 
No. 9. Breast, brisket-ead used for baking, stews and pot-pies. 
No. 10. Neck, scrag-end used for stews, broth, meat-pies, etc. 

In cutting up veal, generally, the hind-quarter is divided in loin and 1^, and 
the fore-quarter into breast, neck and shotdder. 

The Several Parts of a Moderately-sized, well-fed Calf, about eight week, 
old, are nearly of the following weights:— Loin and chump, 18 lbs; fillet, 124 lbs. 
hind knuckle, H lbs.; shoulder, 11 lbs.; neck. 11 lbs.; breast. 9 lbs.; and fore 
knuckle, 5 lbs.; making a total of 144 lbs. weight. 



MUTTON 




MUTTON. 



No. 1. Leg, used for roasts and for boiling. 

No. 2. Shoulder, used for baked dishes and roasts. 

No. 3. Loin, best end used for roasts, chops. 

No. 4. Loin, chump end used for roasts and chops. 

No. 5. Rack, or rib chops, used io\ French chops, rib chops, either for trying or 

broiling; also used for choice ste-('^s. 
No. 6. Breast, used for roast, baked dishes, stews, chops. 
No. 7: Neck or scrag end, used for cutlets and stews and meat pies. 

Note.— A saddle of mutton of double loin is two loins cut off "before the car« 
case is spht open down the back. French chops are a small rib chop, the end of 
the bone trimmed off and the meat and fat cut away from the thin end, leaving 
the round piece of meat attached to the larger end, which leaves the small rib- 
bone bare. Very tender and sweet. 

Mutton is prime when cut from a carcase which has been fed out of doors, 
and allowed to run upon the hillside; they are best when about three years old. 
The fat will then be abundant, white and hard, the flesh juicy and firm, and of 
a clear red color. 

For mutton roasts, choose the shoulder, the saddle, or the loin or haimch.. 
The leg should be boiled. Almost any part will do for broth. 

Lamb bom in the middle of the winter, reared under shelter, and fed in a 
great measm-e upon milk, then killed in the spring, is considered a great delicacy, 
though lamb is good at a year old. Like all young animals, lamb ought to .b« 
thoroughly cooked, or it is most unwholesoue. 



PORK. 




PORK. 

No. 1. Leg, used for smoked hams, roasts and corned pork. 

No. 2. Hind-loin, used for roasts, chops and baked dishes. 

No. 3. Fore-loin or ribs, used for roasts, baked dishes or chops. 

No. 4. Spare-rib, used for roasts, chops, stews 

No. 5. Shoulder, used for smoked shoulder, roasts and corned pork. 

No. 6. Brisket and flank, used for pickling in salt, and smoked bacon. 

The cheek is used for pickling in salt, also the shank or shin. The feet are 
usually used for souse and jelly. 

For family use, the leg is the most economical, that is when fresh, and the 
loin the richest. The best pork is from carcases weighing from fifty to ahout 
one himdred and twenty-five pounds. Pork is a white and close meat, and it 
is almost impossible to over- roast pork or cook it too much; when underdone it 
is exceedingly unwholesome. 




VSN/SO/f 




VENISON. 

No. 1. Shoulder, used for roasting; it may be boned and stuffed, then afterwards 

baked or roasted. 
No. 2. Fore-loin, used for roasts and steaks. 
No. 3. Haunch or loin, used for roasts, steaks, stews. The ribs cut close may be 

used for soups. Good for pickhng and making into smoked venison. 
No. 4. Breast, used for baking dishes, stewing. 
No. 5. Scrag or neck, used for soups. 

The choice of venison should be judged by the fat, which, when the venison 
is young, should be thick, clear and close, and the meat a very dark red. The 
flesh of a female deer, about four years old, .is-the sweetest and best of venison. 

Buck venison, which is in season from June to the end of September, is finer 
fchaQ doe- venison, which is in season from October to December. Neither should 
be dressed at any other time of year, and, no meat requires so much care as 
venison in kiUing, preserving, and dressing. 



SJULOJJV OF BEEF. 




SIRLOIN OF BEEF. 



This choice roasting-piece should be cut with one good firm stroke from end 
to end of the joint, at the upper part, in thin, long, even shces in the direction 
of the hne from 1 to 2, cutting across the grain, serving each guest with some 
of the fat with the lean; this may be done by cutting a small thm sUce from 
underneath the bone from 5 to 6, through the tenderloin. 

Another way of carving this piece, and which will be of great assistance in 
doing it well, is to insert the knife just above the bone at the bottom, and nin 
sharply along, dividing the meat from the bone at the bottom and end, thus leav- 
ing it perfectly flat; then carve in long, thin shces the usual way. When the 
bone has been removed and the sirloin rolled before it is cooked, it is laid upon 
the platter on one end, and an even, thin slice is carved across the grain of the 
upper sm-face. 

Roast ribs should be carved in thm, even shces from the thick end towards 
the thin in the same manner as the sirloin; this can be more easily and cleanly 
done if the carving knife is first run along between the meat and the end and 
rib-bones, thus leaving it free from bone to be cut into shces. 

Tongue. —To carve this, it should be cut crosswise, the middle being the best; 
cut in very Dan slices, thereby improving its dehcacy, making it more tempting; 
as is the case of all well-carved meats. The root of the tongue is usually left 
on the platter. 



BREAST OF VEAL. 




BREAST OF VEAL. 

This piece is quite similar to a fore-quarter of lamb after the shoulder has 
been taken off. A breast of veal consists of two parts, the rib-boues and the 
gristly brisket. These parts may be separated by sharply passing the carving 
knife in the direction of the line from 1 to 2; and when they are entirely divided, 
the rib bones should be carved in the direction of the line from 5 to 6, and the 
brisket can be helped by cutting sUces from 3 to 4. 

The carver should ask the guests whether they have a preference for the 
brisket or ribs; and if there be a sweetbread sei-ved with the dish, as is fre- 
quently with this roast of veal, each person should receive a piece. 

Though veal and lamb contain less nutrition than beef and mutton, in pro- 
portion to their weight, they are often preferred to these latter meats on account 
of their delicacy of texture and flavor, A whole breast of veal weighs from nine 
to twelve pounds. 




to 



FILLET OF VEAL, 




A FILLET OF VEAL. 

A fillet of veal is one of the prime roasts of veal; it is taken from the leg above 
the knuckle; a piece weighing from ten to twelve pounds is a good size and 
requires about four hoiu^ for roasting. Before roasting, it is dressed with a 
force meat or stuffing placed in the cavity from where the bone was taken out 
and the flap tightly secured together with skewers; many bind it together with 
tape. 

To carve it, cut m even thin shoes off from the whole of the upper part or 
top, in the same manner as from a rolled roast of beef, as in the direction of 
the figures 1 and 2; this gives the person served some of the dressing with each 
slice of meat. 

Veal is very unwholesome unless it is cooked thoroughly, and when roasted 
should be of a rich brown color. Bacon, fried pork, sausage-balls, with greens 
axe among the accompaniments of roasted veal, also a cut lemon. 



•-'saC^ 



'^Mm^. 






i..^-^ 



NECK OF VEAL. 



It 




NECK OF VEAL. 



The best end of a neck of veal makes a very good roasting-piece; it however 
Is composed of bone and ribs that make it quite difficult to carve, unless it is 
done properly. To attempt to carve each chop and serve it, you would not only 
place ioo large a piece upon the plate of the person you intend to serve; but you 
woTild waste much time, and should the vertebrae have not been removed by the 
butcher, you would be compelled to exercise such a degree of strength that 
would make one's appearance very ungraceful, and possibly, too, throwing gravy 
over your neighbor sitting next to you. The correct way to carve this roast is 
to cut diagonally from figure 1 to 2, and help in slices of moderate thickness; 
then it may be cut from 3 to 4, in order to separate the small bones; divide and 
serve them, having first inquired if they are desired. 

This joint is usually sent to the table accompanied by bacon, ham, tongue, or 
pickled pork on a separate dish and with a cut lemon on a plate. There are also 
a number of sauces that are suitable with this roast. 



12 



LEG OF MUTTON. 




LEG OF MUTTON. 



The best mutton, and that from which most nomishment is obtained, is that 
ot sheep from three to six years old, and which have been fed on dry sweet 
pastures; then mutton is in ii^prime^ the flesh being firm, juicy, dark colored, 
and full of the lichest gi'avy. Wlien mutton is two years old, the meat is 
flabby, pale and savorless. 

In carving a roasted \&^, the best shces are found by cutting quite down to 
the bone, in the direction from 1 to 2, and slices may be taken from either side. 

Some veiy good cuts are taken from the broad end from 5 to 6, and the fat 
OQ this ridge is very much hked by many. The cramp-bone is a deUcacy, and is 
obtained by cutting down to the bone at 1, and running the knife under it in 
a semicu'cular direction to 3. The nearer the knuckle the drier the meat, but the 
under side contains the most finely grained meat, from which shces may be cut 
lengthwise. When sent to the table a frill of paper around the knuckle will im- 
orove its appearance. 



FORE.QUARTER OF LAMB. 



«3 




FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. 

The first cut to be made in carving a fore-quarter of lamb is to separate the 
shoulder from the breast and ribs; this is done by passing a sharp carving knife 
lightly aroimd the dotted hne as shown by the figures 3, 4, and 5, so as to cut 
through the skin, and then, by raising with a Uttle force the shoulder, into 
which the fork should be firmly fixed, it will easily separate with just a little 
more cutting with the knife; care should be taken not to cut away too much of 
the meat from the breast when dividing the shoulder from it, as that would mar 
its appearance. The shoulder may be placed upon a separate dish for con- 
venience. The next process is to divide the ribs from the brisket by cutting 
through the meat in the hne from 1 to 2; then the ribs may be carved in the 
direction of the hne 6 to 7, and the brisket from 8 to 9. The carver should 
always ascertain whether the guest prefers ribs, brisket or a piece of the shoulder. 




«4 



HAM. 




HAM. 

The carver in cutting a ham must be guided according as he desires to prac- 
tise economy, or have at once fine slices out of the prime part. Under the first 
supposition, he will commence at the knuckle end, and cut off thin shoes towards 
the thick and upper part of the ham. 

To reach the choicer portion of the ham, the knife, which must be very sharp 
and thin, should be carried quite down to the bone through the thick fat in the 
direction of the line, from I to 2. The sUces should be even and thin, cutting 
both lean and fat together, always cutting down to the bone. Some cut a circu- 
lar hole in the middle of a ham gradually enlargmg it outwardly. Then again 
many carve a ham by first cutting from 1 to 2, then across the other way from 
3 to 4. Remove the skin after the ham is cooked and send to the table with 
dots of dry pepper or dry mustard on the top, a tuft of fringed paper twisted 
about the knuckle, and plenty of fresh parsley around the dish. This will always 
ensure an inviting appearance. 

Roast JVgr.— The modern way of serving a pig is not to send it to the table 
whole, but have it carved partially by the cook; first, by dividing the shoulder 
from the body; then the leg in the same manner; also separating the ribs into 
convenient portions. The head may be divided and placed on the same plat- 
ter. To be served as hot as possible. 

A Spare Rib of Pork is carved by cutting shces from the fleshy part, after 
which the bones should be disjointed and separated. 

A leg of pork may be carved in the same manner as a ham. 



HAUNCH OF VENJSON. 



»5 




HAUNCH OF VENISON. 

A.haunch of venison is the prime joint, and is carved very similar to almost 
any roasted or boiJed leg; it should be first cut crosswise down to the bone fol- 
Jowing the hne from 1 to 2; then turn the platter with the knuckle farthest 
from you, put in the point of the knife, and cut down as far as you can, in the 
directions shown by the dotted lines from 3 to 4 then there can; be taken out as 
many slices as is required on the right and left of this. Slices of venison should 
be cut thin, and gravy given with them, but as there is a special sauce made 
^th red wine and currant jelly to accompany this meat, do not serve gravy 
before asking the guest if he pleases to have any. 

The fat of this meat is like mutton, apt to cool soon, and become hard and 
disagreeable to the palate; it should therefore be served always on warm plates, 
and the platter kept over a hot-water dish, or spirit lamp. Many cooks dish it 
up with a white paper frill pined around the knuckle-bone. 

A haunch of mutton is carved the same as a haunch of venison. 




16 



TURKEY,' 




TURKEY 

A turKey having been relieved from strings and skevsrers used in trussing 
should be placed on the table with the head or neck at the carver's right hand. 
An expert carver places the fork in the tiu-key, and does not remove it until the 
whole is divided. First insert the fork firmly in the lower part of the breast, 
just forward of fig. 2, then sever the legs and wings on both sides, if the whole 
is to be carved, cutting neatly through the joint next to the body, letting* these 
parts he on the platter. Next, cut downward from the breast from 2 to 3, as 
many even shces of the wliite meat as may be desired, placing the pieces neatly 
on one side of the platter. Now unjoint the legs and wings at the middle joint, 
which can be done very skillfully by a httle practice. Make an opening into the 
cavity of the turkey for dipping out the inside dressing, by cutting a piece from 
the rear part 1, 1, called the apron. Consult the tastes of the guests as to which 
part is preferred; if no choice is expressed, serve a portion of both hght and dark 
meat. One of the most delicate parts of the turkey, are two httle muscles, ly- 
ing in small dish-like cavities on each side of the back, a httle behind the leg 
attachments; the next most dehcate meat fills the cavities in the neck bone, and 
next to this, that on the second joints. The lower part of the leg (or drum- 
stick, as it is called) being hard, tough, and stringy is rarely ever helped to any 
one, but allowed to remain on the dish. 



-f^^^^s:- 



ROAST GOOSE— FOWLS. I J 





ROAST GOOSE. 

To carve a goose, first begin by separating the leg from the body, by putting 
the fork into the small end of the limb, pressing it closely to the body, then 
passing the knife under at 2, and turning the leg back as you cut through the 
joint. To take off the wing, insert the fork in the small end of the pinion, and 
press it close to the body; put the knife in at figure 1, and divide the joint. 
When the legs and wings are off, the breast may be carved in long even slices, 
as represented in the lines from 1 to 2. The back and lower side bones, as well 
as the two lower side bones by the vdng, may be cut off; but the best pieces of 
the goose are the breast and thighs, after being separated from the drum-sticks. 
Sei've a little of the dressing from the inside, by making a circular shoe in the 
apron at figure 3. A goose should never be over a year old; a tough goose is 
very difficult to carve, and certainly most difficult to eat. 

FOWLS. 

First insert the knife between the leg and the body, and cut to the bone; 
then turn the leg back with the fork, and if the fowl is tender the joint will give 
away easily. The wing is broken off the same way, only dividing the joint with 
the knife, in the direction from 1 to 2. The foiu* quarters haying been removed 
in this way, take off the merry-thought and the neck-bones; these last are to be 
removed by putting the knife in at figure 3 and 4, pressing it hard, when they 
will break off from the part that sticks to the breast. To separate the breast 
from the body of the fowl, cut through the tender ribs close to the breast, quite 
down to the tail. Now turn the fowl over, back upwards; put the knife into 
the bone midway between the neck and the rump, and on raising the lower end 
it will separate readily. Turn now the rump from you, and take off very neatly 
the two side-bones and the fowl is carved. In separating the thigh from the 
ilrum-stick, the knife must be inserted exactly at the joint, for if not accurately 
hit, some difficulty will be experienced to get them apart; this is easily acquired 
by practice. There is no difference in carving roast and boiled fowls if full 
grown; but in very young fowls, the breast is usually served whole; the wings 
and breast are considered the best part, but in young ones the legs are the most 
juicy. In the case of a capon or large fowl, slices may be cut off at the breast^ 
the same as carving a pheasant. 



i8 



ROAST DUCK—PARTRIDGES. 





ROAST DUCK. 

A young duckling may be carved in the same manner as'a fowl, the legs an<J 
wings being taken off first on either side. When the duck is fuU size, carve it 
like a goose; first cutting it in sUces from the breast, beginning close to the 
wing and proceeding upward towards the breast bone, as is represented by the 
lines-1 to 2. An opening may be made, by cutting out a circular slice as shown 
by the dotted lines at number 3. 

Some are fond of the feet, and when dressing the duck, these should be 
neatly skinned and never removed. Wild duck is highly esteemed by epicuresj 
it is trussed Hke a tame duck, and carved in the same manner, the breast being 
the choicest part. 

PARTRIDGES. 

Partridges are generally cleaned and trussed the same way as a pheasant, but 
the custom of cooking them with the heads on is going into disuse somewhat. 
The usual way of carving them is similar to a pigeon, dividing it into two equal 
parts. Another method is to cut it into three pieces, by severing a wing and 
leg on either side from the body, by following the Unes 1 to 2, thus making two 
servings of those parts, leaving the breast for a third plate. The third method 
is to thrust back the body from the legs, and cut through the middle of the 
breast, thus making four portions that may be served. Grouse and prairie- 
chicken are carved from the breast when they are large, and quaii-ered or 
halved when of medium size. 




PHEASANT— PJC EONS. 



'9 




PHEASANT. 

Place your fork firmly in the centre of the breast of this large game bird and 
cut deep slices to the bone at figures 1 and 2; then take off the leg in the line 
from 3 and 4 and the wing 3 and 5, severing both sides the same. In taking off 
the wings, be careful.not to cut too near the neck; if you do you will hit upoQ 
the neck -bone, from which the wing must be separated. Pass the knife through 
the line 6, and under the merry-thought towards the neck, which wiU detach it. 
Cut the other parts as in a fowl. The breast, wings, and merry-thought of a 
pheasant, are the most highly prized, although the legs are considered very 
finely flavored. Pheasants are frequently roasted with the head left on; in that 
case, when dressing them, bring the head round under the wing, and fix it on the 
point of a skewer. 

PIGEONS. 

A very good way of carving these birds is to insert the knife at figure 1, and 
cut both ways to 2 and 3, when each portion may be divided into two pieces, 
then served. Pigeons, if not too large, may be cut in halves, either across or 
down the middle, cutting them into two equal parts; if young and small they 
may be served entirely whole. 

Tame pigeons should be cooked as soon as possible after they are killed, as 
they very quickly lose their flavor. Wild pigeons, on the contrary, should hang 
a day or two in a cool place before they are dressed. Oranges cut into halves 
are used as a garnish for dishes of small birds, such as pigeons, quails, woodcock, 
squabs, snipe, etc. These small birds are either served whole or spht down the 
back, making two servings. 



ao 



MACKEREL— BOILED SALMON. 





MACKEREL. 

The mackerel is one of the most beautiful of fish, being known by their 
silvery whiteness. It sometimes attains to the length of twenty inches, but 
usually, when fully grown, is about fourteen or sixteen inches long, and about 
two pounds in weight. To carve a baked mackerel, first remove the head find 
taU by cutting downward at 1 and 2; then split them down the back, so as 
to serve each person a part of each side piece. The roe should be divided in 
small pieces and ser«^ed with each piece of fish. Other whole fish may be carved 
in the same mianner. The fish is laid upon a httle sauce or folded napkin, on 
a hot dish, and garnished with parsley. 

BOILED SALMON. 

This fish is seldom sent to the table whole, being too large for any ordinary 
sized famfly; the middle cut is considered the choicest to boil. To carve it, first 
run the knife down and along the upper side of the fish from 1 to 2, then again 
on the lower side from 3 to 4. Serve the thick part, cutting it lengthvdse in 
slices in the direction of the line from 1 to 2, and the thin part breadthwise, or 
in the direction from 5 to 6. A shce of the thick with one of the thin, where 
lies the fat, should be served to each guest. Care should be taken when carv- 
ing not to break the flakes of the fish, as that impairs its appearance. The 
flesh of the salmon is rich and dehcious in flavor. Salmon is in season 
from the first of February to the end of August. 




9 ^ CN(cXse/3i)^ _ ^ 



Consomme, or Stock, forms the basis of all meat soups, and also of all princi' 
pal sauces. It is, therefore, essential to the success of these culinary operations 
to know the most complete and economical method of extracting from a certain 
quantity of meat the best possible stock or broth. Fresh uncooked beef makes 
the best stock, with the addition of cracked bones, as the glutinous matter con- 
tained in them renders it important that they should be boiled with the meat, 
which adds to the strength and thickness of the soup. They are composed of 
an earthy substance — to which they owe their solidity — of gelatine, and a fatty 
fluid, something like marrow. Two ounces of them contain as much gelatine 
as one pound of meat; but in them, this is so encased in the earthy substance, 
that boihng water can dissolve ooly the surface of the whole bones, but by 
breaking them they can be dissolved more. When there is an abundance of it, 
it causes the stock, when cold, to become a jelly. The flesh of old animals 
contains more flavor than the flesh of young ones. Brown meats contain more 
flavor than white. 

Mutton is too strong in flavor for good stock, while veal, although quite 
glutinous, fm-nishes very httle nutriment. 

Some cooks use meat that has once been cooked; this renders little nourish- 
ment and destroys the flavor. It might answer for ready soup, but for stock to 
keep it is not as good, unless it should be roasted meats. Those contain higher 
fragrant properties; so by putting the remains of roast meats in the stock-pot 
you obtain a better flavor 

The shin bone is generally used, but the neck or "sticking piece," as the 
butchers caU it, contains more of the substance that you want to extract, makes 
a stronger and more nutritious soup, than any other part of the animal. Meats 
for soup should always be put on to cook in cold water, in a covered pot, and 
allowed to simmer slowly for several hours, in order that the essence of the 
meat may be drawn out thoroughly, and should be carefuUy skimmed to pre- 



22 SOUPS. 

vent it from becoming turbid, never allowed to boil fast at any time, and if more 
-water is needed, use boiling water from the tea-kettle; cold or lukewarm water 
spoils the flavor. Never salt it before the meat is tender (as that hardens and 
toughens the meat), especially if the meat is to be eaten. Take off every parti- 
cle of scum as it rises, and before the vegetables are put in. 

Allow a little less than a quart of water to a pound of meat and bone, and a 
teaspoonf ul of salt. When done, strain through a colander. If for clear soups 
strain again through a hair sieve, or fold a clean towel in a colander set over 
an earthen bowl, or any dish large enough to hold the stock. As stated before, 
stock is not as good when made entirely from cooked meats, but in a family 
where it requires a large joint roasted every day, the bones and bits and under- 
done pieces of beef, or the bony structure of turkey or chicken that has been 
left from carving, bones of roasted poultry, these all assist in imparting a rich 
dark color to soup, and would be sufficient, if stewed as above, to furnish a 
family, without buying fresh meat for the purpose; stiU, with the addition of a 
little fresh meat it would be more nutritious. In cold weather you can gather 
them up for several days and put them to cook in rold water, and when done, 
strain, and put aside until needed. 

Soup will be as good the second day as the fu*st if heated to the boiling 
point. It should never be left in the pot, but should be turned into a dish or 
shallow pan, and set aside to get cold. Never cover it up, as that will cause it 
to turn sour very quickly. 

Before heating a second time, remove all the fat from the top. If this be 
melted in, the flavor of the soup will certainly be spoiled. 

Thickened soups require nearly double the seasoning used for thin soups or 
broth. 

Coloring is used in some brown soups, the chief of which is brown burnt 
sugar, which is known as caramel by French cooks. 

Pounded spinach leaves give a fine green color to soup. Parsley, or the 
green leaves of celery, put in soup virill serve instead of spinach. 

Pound a large handful of spinach in a mortar, then tie it in a cloth, and 
wring out all the juice; put this in the soup you wish to color green, five min 
utes before taking it up. 

Mock turtle, and sometimes veal and lamb soups, should be this color. 

Ochras gives a green color to soup. 

To color soup red, skin six red tomatoes, squeeze out the seeds and put them 
into the soup with the other vegetables— or take the juice only as directed for 
spinach. 



SOUPS. 23 

For white soups, which are of veal, Iamb or chicken, none but white vegeta* 
bles are used; rice, pearl barley, vermicelli, or macaroni for thickening. 

Grated carrot gives a fine amber color to soup; it must be put in as soon aa 
the soup is free from scum. 

Hotel and private-house stock is quite different. 

Hotels use meat in such large quantities, that there is always more or 
less trimmings and bones of meat to add to fresh meats; that makes very 
strong stock, which they use in most all soups and gravies and other made 
dishes. 

The meat from which soup has been made is good to serve cold thus: take 
out all the bones, season with pepper and salt, and catsup, if hked, then chop 
it small, tie it in a cloth, and lay it between two plates, with a weight on the 
upper one: slice it thin for luncheon or supper; or make sandwiches of it; or 
make a hash for breakfast; or make it into balls, with the addition of a little 
wheat flour and an egg, and serve them fried in fat, or boil in the soup. 

An agreeable flavor is sometimes imparted to soup by sticking some cloves 
into the meat used for making stock; a few slices of onions fried very brown 
in butter are nice; also flour browned by simply putting it into a saucepan over 
the fire and stirring it constantly until it is a dark brown. 

Clear soups must be perfectly transparent and thickened soups about th» 
consistence of cream. When soups and gravies are kept from day to day in hot 
weather, they should be warmed up every day, and put into fresh-scalded pans 
or tureens, and placed in a cool cellar. In temperate weather, every other day 
may be sufiScient. 

HERBS AND VEGETABLES USED IN SOUPS. 

Of vegetables the principal ones are carrots, tomatoes, asparagus, green peas, 
okra, macaroni, green corn,, beans, rice, vermicelli, Scotch barley, pearl barley, 
wheat flour, mushroom or mushroom catsup, parsnips, beet-root, tm-nips, leeks, 
garhc, shalots and onions; sliced onions fried with butter and flour until they 
are browned, then rubbed through a sieve, are excellent to heighten the color and 
flavor of brown sauces and soups. The herbs usually used in soups are parsley, 
common thyme, summer savory, knotted marjoram, and other seasonings such 
as bay -leaves, tarragon, allspice, cinnamon, nutmeg, cloves, mace, black and 
white pepper, red pepper, lemon-peel and juice, orange peel and juice. The 
latter imoarts a finer flavor and the acid much milder. These materials, with 
wme, and the various catsups, combined in various proportions, are, with other 
ngredients, made into almost an endless variety of excellent soups and gravies. 



24 SOUPS. 

Soups that are intended for the principal part of a meal certainly ought not to 
be flavored like sauces, which are only intended to give reUsh to some particular 
dish. 

STOCK. 

Six pounds of shin of beef, or six pounds of knuckle of veal; any bones, trim- 
mings of poultry, or fresh meat; one-quarter pound of lean bacon or ham, tw(v 
ounces of butter, two large onions, each stuck with cloves; one turnip, three 
carrots, one head of celery, two ounces of salt, one-half teaspoonful of whole 
pepp)er, one large blade of mace, one bunch of savory herbs except sage, foui- 
quarts and one- half pint of cold water. 

Cut up the meat and bacon, or ham, into pieces of about three inches 
square; break the bones into small pieces, rub the butter on the bottom of the 
stewpan; put in one-half a pint of water, the broken bones, then meat and all 
other ingredients. Cover the stewpan, and place it on a sharp fire, occasionally 
stirring its contents. When the bottom of the pan becomes covered with a pale, 
jelly-hke substance, add the four quarts of cold water, and simmer very gently 
for five or six hours. As we have said before, do not let it boil quickly. When 
nearly cooked, throw in a tablespoonful of salt to assist the scum to rise. Re- 
move every particle of scum whilst it is doing, and strain it through a fine hair 
sieve; when cool remove all grease. This stock will keep for many days in cold 
weather. 

Stock is the basis of many of the soups afterwards mentioned, and this will 
be found quite strong enough for ordinary purposes. Keep it in small jars, in a 
cool place. It makes a good gravy for hash meaU; one tablespoonful of it is 
sufficient to impart a fine flavor to a dish of macaroni and various other dishes. 
Good soups of various kinds are made from it at short notice; shce off a portion 
of the jelly, add water, and whatever vegetables and thickening preferred. It is 
best to partly cook the vegetables before adding to the stock, as much boiling 
injures the flavoring of the soup. . Season and boil a few moments and serve 
hot. 

WHITE STOCK. 

White stock is hsed in the preparation of white soups, and is made by boU- 
ing six pounds of a knuckle of veal, cut up in small pieces, poultry trimmings, 
and four shoes of lean ham. Proceed according to directions given in " Stock, '" 
above. 



SOUPS, 25 

TO CLARIFY STOCK: 
Place the stock in a clean saucepan, set it over a brisk fire. When boiling, add 
the white of one egg to each quart of stock, proceeding as follows: beat the 
whites of the eggs up well in a little water; then add a little hot stock; beat to 
a froth, and pour gradually into the pot; then beat the whole hard and long; 
allow it to boil up once, and immediately remove and strain through a thin flan- 
nel cloth. 

BEEF SOUP. 

Select a small shin of beef of moderate size, crack the bone in small pieces, 
wash and place it in a kettle to boil, with five or six quarts of cold water. Let 
it boil about two hours, or until it begins to get tender, then season it with a 
tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper; boil it one hour longer, then 
add to it one carrot, two turnips, two tablespoonfuls of rice or pearl barley, one 
head of celery and a teaspoonful of summer savory powdered fine; the vegetables 
to be minced up in smaU pieces like dice. After these ingredients have boiled 
a quarter of an hour, put in two potatoes cut up in small pieces; let it boil half 
an hour longer, take the meat from the soup, and if intended to be served with 
it, take out the bones and lay it closely and neatly on a dish, and garnish with 
sprigs of parsley. 

Serve made mustard and catsup with it. It is very nice pressed and eaten 
cold with mustard and vinegar, or catsup. Four hours are required for making 
this soup. Should any remain over the first day, it may be heated, with the 
addition of a Uttle boiling water, and served again. Some fancy a glass of brown 
sherry added just before being served. Serve very hot. 

VEAL SOUP. (Excellent.) 
Put a knuckle of veal into three quarts of cold water, with a small quantity 
of salt, and one small tablespoonful of uncooked rice. Boil slowly, hardly 
above simmering, four hours, when the hquor should be reduced to half the 
usual quantity; remove from the fire. Into the tureen put the yolk of one egg, 
and stir well into it a teacupful of cream, or, in hot weather, new milk; add a 
piece of butter the size of a hickory -nut; on this strain the soup, boiling hot, 
stirring all the time. Just at the last, beat it well for a minute. 

SCOTCH MUTTON BROTH. 
%bi poimds neck of mutton, three quarts water, five carrots, five turnips, twol 
onions, four tablespoonfuls barley, a httle salt. Soak mutton in water for an 



«6 SOUFS. 

hour, cut off scrag, and put it in stewpan with three quarts of water. As soon 
as it boils, skim well, and then simmer for one and one-half hours Cut best 
end of mutton into cutlets, dividing it with two bones in each; take off nearly 
all fat before you put it into broth; skim the moment the meat boils, and every 
ten minutes afterwards; add carrots, turnips and onions, all cut into two or three 
pieces, then put them into soup soon enough to be thoroughly done; stir in bar- 
ley; add salt to taste; let all stew together for three and one-half hours: about 
one-half hour before sending it to table, put in Uttle chopped parsley and serve. 

Cut the me^t off the scrag into small pieces, and send it to table in the tureen 
with the soup. The other half of the mutton should be served on a separate 
dish, with whole turnips boiled and laid round it. Many persons are fond of 
mutton that has been boiled in soup. 

You may thicken the soup with rice or barley that has first been soaked in 
cold water; or with green peas; or with yoimg com, cut down from the cob; 
or with tomatoes scalded, peeled and cut into pieces. 

GAME SOUP. 

Two grouse or partridges, or, if you have neither, use a pair of rabbits; half 
a pound of lean ham; two medium-sized onions; one pound of lean beef; fried 
bread; butter for frying; pepper, salt, and two stalks of white celery cut into 
inch lengths; three quarts of water. 

Joint your game neatly; cut the ham and onicns into small pieces, and fry 
all in butter to a hght brown. Put into a soup-pot with the beef, cut into strips, 
and a little pepper. Pour on the water; heat slowly, and stew gently two hours. 
Take out the pieces of bird, and cover in a bowl; cook the soup an hour longer; 
strain; cool; drop in the celery, and simmer ten minutes. Pour upon fried 
bread in the tureen. 

Venison soup made the same, with the addition of a tablespoonful of brown 
flour wet into a paste with cold water, adding a tablespoonful of catsup, Worces- 
tershire, or other pmigent sauce, and a glass of Madeira or brown sherry. 

CONSOMME SOUP. 

Take good strong stock (see pages 21 and 24), remove all fat from the surface, 
fiAd for each quart of the stock allow the white and shell of one egg and a table- 
epoofifill of water, well whipped together. Pour this mixture into a saucepan 
cODt^ing the stock ; place it over the fire and heat the contents gradually, stirring 
often to prevent the egg from sticking to the bottom of the saucepan. Allow it to 



SOUPS. 



27 



boil gently until the stock looks perfectly clear under the &gg, -which will rise and 
float upon the surface in the form of. a thick white scum. Now remove it and pour 
it into a folded towel laid in. a colander set over an earthen bowl, allowing it to run 
through without moving or squeezing it. Season with more salt if needed, and 
quickly serve very hot This should be a clear amber color. 

JULIENNE SOUP. 

Cut carrots and turnips into quarter inch pieces the shape of dice; also celery 
into thin slices. Cover them with boiling water; add a teaspoonful of salt, half a 
teaspooiiful pepper, and cook until soft In another saucepan have two quarts of 
boiling stock (see pages 21 and 24), to which add the cooked vegetables, the water 
and more seasoning if necessary. Serve hot. 

In the spring and summer season use asparagus, peas and string beans — all cut 
into small uniform thickness. 

CREAM OF SPINACH. 

Pick, wash and boil enough spinach to measure a pint, when cooked, chopped 
and poimded into a soft paste. Put it into a stewpan with four ounces of fresh 
butter, a little grated nutmeg, a teaspoonful of salt Cook and stir it about ten 
minutes. Add to this two quarts of strong stock (see pages 21 and 24) ; let boil up, 
then rub it through a strainer. Set it over the fire again, and, when on the point of 
boiling, mix with it a tablespoonf ul of butter, and a teaspoonful of granulated sugar. 

CHICKEN CREAM SOUP. 

An old chicken for soup is much the best. Cut it up into quarters, put it 
into a soup kettle with half a pound of corned ham, and an onion; add four 
quarts of cold water. Bring slowly to a gentle boil^ and keep this up until the 
liquid has diminished one-third, and the meat drops from the bones; then add 
half a cup of rice. Season with salt, pepper, and a bunch of chopped parsley. 

Cook slowly until the rice is tender, then the meat should be taken out. 
Now, stir in two cups of rich milk thickened with a little flour. The chicken 
could be fried in a spoonful of butter and a gravy made, reserving some of thft 
white part of the meat, chopping it and adding it to the soup. 

PLAIN ECONOMICAL SOUP. 

Take a cold-roast-beef bone, pieces of beef -steak, the rack of a cold turkey or 
chicken. Put them into a pot with three or four quarts of water, two carrots, 
three turnips, one onion, a few cloves, pepper and salt. Boil the whole gently 



28 SOUPS. . 

four hours; then strain it through a colander, mashing the vegetables so that 
they will all pass through. Skim off the fat, and return the soup to the pot. 
Mix one tablespoonful of flour with two of water, stir it into the soup and boil 
the whole ten minutes. Serve this soup with sippets of toast. 

Sippets are bits of diy toast cut into a triangular form. 

A seasonable dish about the holidays. 

OX-TAIL SOUR 

Two ox-tails, two sUces of ham, one ounce of butter, two carrots, two turnips, 
three om'ons, one leek, one head of celery, one bunch of savory herbs, pepper, a 
tablespoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of catsup, one-half glass of port wine^ 
three quarts of water. 

Cut up the tails, separating them at the joints; wash them, and put 
them in a stewpan with the butter. Cut the vegetables in shces and add them with 
the herbs. Put in one-half pint of water, and stir it over a quick fire till the 
juices are drawn. Fill up the stewpan with watei', and when boiling, add the salt. 
Skim well, and simmer very gently for fom" hours, or until the tails are tender. 
Take them out, skim and strain the soup, tliicken with flour, and flavor with the 
catsup and port wine. Put back the tails, simmer for five minutes and serve. 

Another way to make an appetizing ox-tail soup. You should begin to make it 
the day before you wish to eat the soup. Take two tails, wash clean, and put 
in a kettle with nearly a gallon of cold water; add a small handful of salt; 
when the meat is well cooked, take out the bones. Let this stand in a cool 
room, covered, and next day, about an hour and a half before dinner, skim off 
the crust or cake of fat which has risen to the top. Add a little onion, carrot, 
or any vegetables you choose, chopping them fine first; summer savory may 
also be added. 

CORN SOUP. 

Cut the com from the cob, and boil the cobs in water for at least an hour, 
then add the gi-ains, and boil until they are thoroughly done; put one dozen 
ears of com to a gallon of water, which will be reduced to three quarts by the 
time the soup is done; then pour on a pint of new mUk, two well-beaten eggs, 
salt and pepper to yotir taste; continue the boihng a while longer, and stir in, to 
season and thicken it a little, a tablespoonful of good butter rubbed up with two 
tablespoonfuls of flour. Com soup may also be made nicely with water in 
which a pair of grown fowls have been boiled or parboiled, instead of having 
plain water for the foundation. 



SOUPS. 29 

SPLIT PEA SOUP. No. i. 

Wash well a pint of split peas and cover them well with cold water, adding 
a third of a teaspoonful of soda; let them remain in it over night to swell. In 
the morning put them in a kettle with a close fitting cover. Pour over them 
three quarts of cold water, adding half a pound of lean ham or bacon cut into 
slices or pieces; also a teaspoonful of salt and a little pepper, and some celery 
chopped fine. When the soup begins to boil, skim the froth from the smf ace. 
Cook slowly from three to four hours, stirring occasionally till the peas are all 
dissolved, adding a httle more boihng water to keep up the quantity as it boils 
away. Strain through a colander, and leave out the meat. It should be quite 
thick. Serve with small squares of toasted bread, cut up and added. If not 
rich enough, add a small piece of butter. 

CREAM OF ASPARAGUS. 
For making two quarts of soup, nse two bundles of fresh asparagus. Cut the 
tops from one of the bunches and cook them twenty minutes in salted water, enough 
to cover them. Cook the remainder of the asparagus about twenty minutes in a quart 
of stock or water. Cut an onion into thin slices and fry in three tablespoonfuls of 
butter ten minutes, being careful not to scorch it; then add the asparagus that has 
been boiled in the stock ; cook this five minutes, stirring constantly ; then add three 
tablespoonfuls of dissolved flour, cook five minutes longer. Turn this mixture into 
the boiling stock and boil twenty minutes. Kub through a sieve ; add the milk and 
cream and the asparagus heads. If water is used in place of stock, use all cream. 

GREEN PEA SOUP. 

Wash a small quarter of lamb in cold water, and put it into a soup-pot with 
six quarts of cold water; add to it two tablespoonfuls of salt, and set it over a 
moderate fire— let it boil gently for two hours, then skim it dear: add a quart 
of shelled peas, and a teaspoonful of pepper; cover it, and let it boil for half an 
hour; then having scraped the skins from a quart of small young potatoes, add 
them to the soup; cover the pot and let it boil for half an hour longer; w^ork 
quarter of a pound of butter and a dessert spoonful of floor together, and odd 
them to the soup ten or twelve minutes before taking it off the fire. 

Serve the meat on a dish with parsley sauce over, and the soup in a tureen. 

DRIED BEAN SOUP. 

Put two quarts of dried white beans to soak the night before you make the 
soup, which should be put on as early in the day as possible. 



30 SOUPS. 

Take two pounds of the lean of fresh beef— the coarse pieces will do. Cut 
them up, and put them into your soup- pot with the bones belonging to them, 
(which should be broken in pieces,) and a pound of lean bacon, cut very small. 
If you have the remains of a piece of beef that has been roasted the day before, 
and 80 much under-done that the juices remain in it, you may put it into the 
pot and its bones along with it. Season the meat with pepper only, and pour 
on it six quarts of water. As soon as it boils, take off the scum, and put in the 
beans (having first drained them) and a head of celery cut small, or a table- 
spoonful of pounded celery seed. Boil it slowly till the meat is done to shreds, 
and the beans all dissolved. Then strain it through a colander into the tureen, 
and put into it small squares of toasted bread with the crust cut off. 

TURTLE SOUP FROM BEANS. 

Soak over night one quart of black beans; next day boil them in the proper 
quantity of water, say a gallon, then dip the beans out of the pot and strain 
them through a colander. Then return the flour of the beans, thus pressed, into 
the pot in which they were boiled. Tie up in a thin cloth some thyme, a tea- 
spoonful of summer savory and parsley, and let it boil in the mixture. Add a 
tablespoonf ul of cold butter, salt and pepper. Have ready fom* hard-boiled yolks 
of eggs quartered, and a few force meat balls; add this to the soup with a sliced 
lemon, and half a glass of wine just before serving the soup. 

This approaches so near in flavor to the real turtle soup that few are able to 
distingmsh the difference. 

PHILADELPHIA PEPPER POT. 

Put two pounds of tripe and four calves' feet into the soup-pot and cover 
them with cold water; add a red pepper, and boil closely until the calves' feet 
are boiled very tender; take out the meat, skim the hquid, stir it, cut the tripe 
into small pieces, and put it back into the liquid; if there is not enough liquid, 
add boiling water; add half a teaspoonful of sweet marjoram, sweet basil, and 
thyme, two sliced onions, sliced potatoes, salt. "WJien the vegetables have 
boiled until almost tender, add a piece of butter rolled in flour, drop in some egg 
balls, and boil fifteen minutes more. Take up and serve hot. 

SQUIRREL SOUP. 

Wash and quarter three or four good sized squirrels; put them on, with a 
small tablespoonful of salt, directly after breakfast, in a gallon of cold water 



SOUPS. 3» 

Cover the pot close, and set it on the back part of the stove to simmer gently, 
not boil. Add vegetables just the same as you do in case of other meat soups 
in the summer season, but especially good will you find corn, Irish potatoes, 
tomatoes and Lima beans. Strain t)ie souj) tlu'ough a coarse colander when the 
meat has boiled to shreds, so as to get rid of the squirrel's troublesome little 
bones. Then return to the pot, and after boihng a while longer, thicken with a 
piece of butter rubbed in flour. Celery and parsley leaves chopped up are also 
considered an improvement by many. Toast two slices of bread, cut them into 
dice one half inch square, fry them in butter, put them into the bottom ol 
yom- tureen, and then pour the soup boiling hot upon them. Very good. 

TOMATO SOUP. No. i. 

Place in a kettle four poimds of beef. Pom- over it one gallon of cold water. 
Let the meat and water boil slowly for three hours, or until the liquid is reduced 
to about one-half. Remove the meat and put into the broth a quart of tomatoes, 
and one chopped onion; salt and pepper to taste. A teaspoonful of flour should 
be dissolved and stirred in, then allowed to boil half an hour longer. Strain 
and serve hot. Canned tomatoes, in place of fresh ones, may be iised. 

TOMATO SOUP. No. 2. 

Place over the fire a quart of peeled tomatoes, stew them soft with a pinch 
of soda. Strain it so that no seeds remain, set it over the fire again, and add a 
quart of hot boiled milk; season, with salt and pepper, a piece of butter the size 
of an egg, add three tablespoonfuls of rolled cracker, and serve hot. Carmed 
tomatoes may be used in place of fresh ones, 

TOMATO SOUP. No, 3. 

Peel two quarts of tomatoes, boil them in a sauce-pan vdth an onion, and 
other soup vegetables; strain and add a level tablespoonful of flour dissolved in 
a third of a cup of melted butter; add pepper and salt. Serve very hot over 
little squares of bread fried brown and crisp in butter. 

An excellent addition to a cold/ meat lunch. 



MULLAGATAWNY SOUP. (As made in India.) 

Cut four onions, one carrot, two turnips, and one head of celery into three 
quarts of liquor, in which one or two fowls have been boiled; keep it over a brisK 



32 SOUPS. 

fire, till it boils, then place it on a comer of the fire, and let it simmer twenty min- 
utes; add one tablespoonful of currie powder, and one tablespoonful of flour; mix 
the whole well together, and let it boil three minutes; pass it through a colander; 
serve with pieces of roast chicken in it; add boiled rice in a separate dish. It 
must be of good yellow color, and not too thick. If you find it too thick, add a 
little boihng water and a teaspoonf ul of sugar. Half veal and half chicken an- 
swers as well. 

A dish of rice, to be served separately with this soup, must be thus prepared: 
put three pints of water in sauce-pan and one tablespoonful of salt; let this 
boil. Wash well, in three waters, half a pound of rice; strain it, and put it into 
the boiling water in sauce-pan. After it has come to the boil — which it will do 
in about two minutes— let it boil twenty minutes; strain it through a colander, 
and pour over it two quarts of cold water. This will separate the grains of rice. 
Put it back in the sauce-pan, and place it near the fire until hot enough to send 
to the table. This is also the proper way to boil rice for curries. If these direc- 
tions are strictly carried out eveiy grain of the rice will separate, and be thor- 
oughly cooked. 

MOCK TURTLE SOUP, OF CALF'S HEAD. 

Scald a well-cleansed calf's head, remove the brain, tie it up m a cloth, and 
boil an hour, or mitil the meat will easily sUp from the bone; take out, save the 
broth; cut it in small, square pieces, and throw them into cold water; when 
cool, put it in a stewpan, and cover with same of the broth; let it boil until 
quite tender, and set aside. 

In another stevirpan melt some butter, and in it put a quarter of a pound of 
lean ham, cut small, with fine herbs to taste; also parsley and one onion; add 
about a pint of the broth; let it simmer for two hours, and then dredge in a 
small quantity of flour; aow add the remainder of the broth, and a quarter bot- 
tle of Madeira or sherry; let all stew quietly for ten minutes and rub it through 
a medium sieve; add the calf's head, season with a very little cayenne pepper, a 
little salt, the juice of one lemon, and if desired, a quarter teaspoonful pounded 
mace and a dessert-spoon sugar. 

Having previously prepared force-meat balls, add them to the soup, and five 
minutes after serve hot. 

GREEN TURTLE SOUP. 

One turtle, two onions, a bunch of sweet herbs, juice of one lemon, five quarts 
of water, a glass of Madeira. 



SOUPS, 33 

After removing the entrails, cut up the coarser parts of the turtle meat and 
bones. Add four quarts of water, and stew four hours with the herbs, onions, 
pepper and salt. Stew very slowly, do not let it cease boiling daring this time. 
At the end of four hours strain the soup, and add the finer parts of the turtle 
and the green fat, which has been simmered one hour in two quarts of water. 
Thicken v^nVn brown flour; return to the soup-pot, and simmer gently for aa 
hour longer. If there are eggs m the turtle, boil them in a separate vessel for 
four hours, and thjrow into the soup before taking up. If uot, put in force-raeafc 
balls; then the juice of the lemon, and the wine; beat up at once and pour out. 

Some cooks add the finer meat before straining, boiling all together five 
hours; then strain, thicken, and put in the green fat, cut into lumps an inch 
long. This makes a handsomer soup than if the meat is left in. 

Green turtle can now be purchased preserved in air-tight cans. 

Force Meat Balls for the Above. — Six tablespoonfuls of turtle-meat chopped 
very fine. Rub to a paste, with the yolk of two hard-boiled eggs, a tablespoon- 
ful of butter, and, if convenient a little oyster hquor. Season with cayenne, 
mace, and half a teaspoonful of white sugar and a pinch of salt. Bind all with 
a well-beaten egg; shape into small balls; dip in egg, then powdered cracker; 
fry in butter, and drop into the soup when it is served. 

MACARONI SOUP. 

To a rich beef or other soup, in which there is no seasomng other than pep- 
per or salt, take half a pound of small pipe macaroni, boil it in clear water until 
it is tender, then drain it and cut it in pieces of an inch length; boil it for fifteen 
minutes in the soup and serve. 

TURKEY SOUP. 

Take the turkey bones and boil three-quarters of an hom* in water enough to 
cover them; addahttle summer savory and celery chopped fine. Just before 
serving, thicken with a Uttle flour (browned), and season with pepper, salt, 
and a small piece of butter. This is a cheap but good soup, using the remains of 
cold turkey which might otherwise be thrown away. 

GUMBO OR OKRA SOUP. 

Fry out the fat of a slice of bacon or fat ham, drain it off. and in it fry the 
slices of a large onion browii; scald, peel, and cut up two quarts fresh tomatoes, 
when in season, (use canned tomatoes otherwise), and cut thin one quart okra; 



34 SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 

put them, together with a httle chopped parsley, in a stew-kettl© wiih about 
three quarts of hot broth of anj kind; cook slowly for three hours, season with 
salt and pepper. Serve hot. 

[n chicken broth the same quantity of okra pods, used for thickening instead 
of tomatoesj forms a chicken gumbo soup. 

TAPIOCA CREAM SOUP. 

One quart of white stock; one pint of cream or milk; one onion; two stalks 
celery; one-third of a cupful of tapioca; two cupfuls of cold water; one table- 
spoonful of butter; a small piece of mace; salt, pepper. Wash the tapioca and 
soak over night in cold water. Cook it and the stock together very gently for 
one hour. Cut the onion and celery into small pieces, and put on to cook for 
twenty minutes with the milk and mace. Strain on the tapioca and stock. 
Season with salt and pepper, add butter, and serve. 



Soupe Mitbout flbeat 

ONION SOUP. 

One quart of milk, siz large onions, yolks of four eggs, three tablespoonfuls 
of butter, a large one of flour, one cupful of cream, salt, pepper. Put the but. 
ter in a frying pan. Cut the onions into thin shoes and drop in the butter. Stir 
until they begin to cook; then cover tight and set back where they wiU simmer, 
but not burn, for half an hour. Now put the milk on to boil, and then add the 
dry flom- to the onions and stir constantly for three minutes over the fire; then 
turn the mixture into the milk and cook fifteen minutes. Rub the soup through 
a strainer, retm-n to the fire, season with salt and pepper. Beat the yoUcs of the 
eggs well, add the cream to them and stir into the soup. Cook three minutes, 
stirring constantly. If you have no cream, use milk, in which case add a table- 
spoonful of butter at the same time. Pour over fried croutons in a soup tureen. 

This is a refreshing dish when one is fatigued. 

WINTER VEGETABLE SOUP. 

Scrape and ehce three turnips and three carrots, and peel three onions, and 
try all with a httle butter until a light yellow; add a bunch of celery and three 
or four leeks cut in pieces; stir and fry all the ingredients for sis! minutes; 



SOUFS WITHOUT MEAT. 35 

when fried, add one clove of garlic, two stalks of parsley, two cloves, salt, pep- 
per and a little grated nutmeg; cover, with three quarts of water and simmer 
for three hours, taking ofif the scum carefully. Strain and use. Croutons, 
vermicelli, Italian pastes, or rice may be added, 

VERMICELLI SOUP. 

Swell quarter of a pound of vermicelli in a quart of warm "water, then add it to 
a good beef, veal, lamb, or chicken soup or broth, with quarter of a pound of 
sweet butter; let the soup boil for fifteen minutes after it is added. 

SWISS WHITE SOUP. 

A sufficient quantity of isroth for six people; boil it; beat up three eggs well, 
two spoonfuls of flour, one cup milk; pour these gradually through a sieve into 
the boiling; soup salt and pepper. 

SPRING VEGETABLE SOUP. 

Half pint green peas, two shredded lettuces, one onion, a small bunch of 
parsley, two ounces butter, the yolks of three eggs, one pint of water, one and a 
half quarts of soup stock. Put in a stewpan the lettuce, onion, parsley and but- 
ter, w-ith one pint of water, and let them simmer till tender. Season with 
salt and pepper. When done strain off the vegetables, and put two-thirds of 
the hquor with the stock. Beat up the yolks of the eggs with the other third, 
toss it over the fire, and at the moment of serving add this with the vegetables 
to the strained-off soup. 

CELERY SOUP. 

Celery soup may be made -with xvhiU stock. Cut down the white of half a 
dozen heads of celery into little pieces and boil it in four pints of white stock, 
with a quarter of a pound of lean ham and two ounces of butter. Simmer gently 
for a full horn-, then strain through a sieve, return the hquor to the pan, and 
stir in a few spoonfuls of cream with great care. Serve with toasted bread and, 
if liked, thicken with a httle flour. Season to taste. 

IRISH POTATO SOUP. 

Peel and boil eight medium-sized potatoes with a large onion,. sHced, some 
herbs, salt and pepper; press aU through a colander; then thin it with rich milk 
and add a lump of butter, more seasoning, if necessary; let it heat well and 
serve hot. 



3& SOUFS WITHOUT MEAT, 

PEA SOUP. 

Put a quart of dried peas into five quarts of water; boil for four hours; then 
add three or four large onions, two heads of celery, a carrot, two turnips, all cut 
up rather fine. Season with pepper and salt. Boil two hours longer, and if the 
soup becomes too thick add more water. Strain through a colander and stir in 
a tablespoonful of cold butter. Serve hot, with small pieces of toasted bread 
placed in the bottom of the tureen. 

NOODLES FOR SOUP. 

Beat up one egg hght, add a pinch of salt, and flour enough to make a very 
stiff dough; roU out very thin, hke thin pie crust, dredge with flour to keep from 
sticking. Let it remain on the bread board to dry for an hour or more; then 
roll it up into a tight scroll, like a sheet of music. Begin at the end and sUce it 
into shps as thin as straws. After aU are cut, mix them lightly together, and 
to prevent them sticking, keep them floured a little until you are ready to drop 
them into your soup, which should be done shortly before dinner^ for if boiled 
too long they will go to pieces. 

FORCE MEAT BALLS FOR SOUP. 

One cupful of cooked veal or fowl meat, minced; mix with this a handful of 
fine bread-crumbs, the yolks of four hard-boiled eggs rubbed smooth together 
with a tablespoon of milk; season with pepper and salt; add a half teaspoon of 
flour, and bind all together Mith two beaten eggs; the hands to be well floured, 
and the mixture to be made into httle balls the size of a nutmeg, drop into the 
soup about twenty minutes before serving. 

EGG BALLS FOR SOUP. 

Take the yolks of six hard-boiled eggs and half a tablespoonful of wheat 
flour, rub th'em smooth with the yolks of two- raw eggs and a teaspoonful of 
salt; mix aU well together; make it in balls, and drop them into the boiling soup 
a few minutes before taking it up. 

Used in green turtle soup. 

EGG DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP. 

To half a pint ot milk put two well-beaten eggs, and as much wheat flour as 
will make a smooth, rather thick batter free from lumps; drop this batter, a 
tablespoonful at a time, into boiling soup. 



SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. t,j 

Another mode.-^ One cupful of sour cream and one cupful of sour milk, three 
eggs, well beaten, whites and yolks separately; one teaspoonful of salt, one level 
teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a spoonful of water, and enough flour added to 
make a very stiff batter. To be dropped by spoonfuls into the broth and boiled 
twenty minutes, or until no raw dough shows on the outside. 

SUET DUMPLINGS FOR SOUP. 

Three cups of sifted flour in which three teaspoonfuls^of baking powder have 
been sifted; one cup of finely chopped suet, well rubbed into the flour, with a 
teaspoonful of salt. Wet all with sweet milk to make a dough as stiff as bis- 
cuit. Make into small balls as large as peaches, well floured. Drop into the 
soup three-quarters of an hour before being served. This requires steady boil- 
ing, being closely covered, and the cover not to be removed until taken up to serve. 
A very good form of pot-pie. 

SOYER'S RECIPE FOR FORCE MEATS. 

Take H lbs. of lean veal from the fillet, and cut it in long thin sHces; scrape 
with a knife till nothing but the fibre remains; put it in a mortar, pound it 10 
minutes, or until in a puree; pass it through a wire si^ve (use the remainder in 
stock); then take 1 lb. of good fresh beef suet, which skin, shred, and chop 
very fine; put it in a mortar and poimd it; then add 6 oz. of panada (that is, 
bread soaked in milk, and boiled tiU nearly dry) with the suet; pound them well 
together, and add the veal; season with 1 teaspoonful of salt, i teaspoonful of 
pepper, J that of nutmeg; work all well together; then add 4 eggs by .degrees, 
continually pounding the contents of the mortar," When well mixed, take a 
small piece in a spoon, and poach it in some boiling water; and if it is delicate, 
firm, and of a good flavor, it is ready for use. 

CROUTONS FOR SOUP. 

In a frying pan have the depth of an inch of boiling fat; also have prepared 
slices of stale bread cut up into Uttle half -inch squares; .drop into the frying 
pan enough of these bits of bread to cover the surface of the fat. When 
browned, remove with a skimmer and drain; add to the hot soup and serve. 

Some prefer them prepared in this manner: 

Take very thin shoes of bread, butter them well; cut them up mto little 
squares three fourths of an inch thick, place them in a baking pan, buttered 
ide up, and brown in a quick oven. 



38 SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 

FISH STOCK. 

Place a saucepan over the fire with a good sized piece of sweet butter, and a 
sliced onion; put into that some sliced tomatoes, then add as many different 
kinds of small fish as you can get — oysters, clams, smelts, pawns, crabs, shrimps, 
and all kinds of pan-fish; cook all together, until the onions are weU browned, 
then add a bunch of sweet herbs, salt and pepper, and sufficient water to make 
the required amoimt of stock. After this has cooked for half an hour pound it 
with a wooden pestle, then strain and cook again until it jellies. 

FISH SOUP. 

Select a large, fine fish, clean it thoroughly, put it over the fire with a suflS- 
cient quantity of water, allowing for each pound of fish one quart of water; 
add an onion cut fine, and a bunch of sweet herbs. When the fish is cooked, 
and is quite tasteless, strain aU through a colander, return to the fire, add some 
butter, salt and pepper to taste. A small tablespoonful of Worcestershire sauce 
may be added if liked. Served with small squares of fried bread and thin 
slices of lemon. 

LOBSTER SOUP, OR BISQUE. 

Have ready a good broth made of three pounds of veal boiled slowly in as 
much water as will cover it, till the meat is reduced to shreds. It must then be 
well strained- 
Having boiled one fine middle-sized lobster, extract all the meat from the 
body and claws. Bruise part of the coral in a mortar, and also an equal quan- 
tity of the meat. Mix them well together. Add mace, cayenne, salt and 
pepper, and make them up into force-meat balls, binding the mixture with the 
yolk of an egg slightly beaten. 

Take three quarts of the veal broth, and put into it the meat of the lobster 
cut into mouthfuls. Boil it together about twenty minutes. Then thicken it 
with the remaining coral (which you must first rub through a sieve), and add 
the force meat balls and a little butter rolled in flour. Simmer it gently for ten 
minutes but do not let it come to a boil, as that will injure the color. Serve with 
small dice of bread fried brown in butter. 

OYSTER SOUP. No. i. 
Two quarts of oysters, one quart of milk, two tablespoonfuls of butter, one 
teacupful of hot water; pepper, salt. 



SOUPS WITHOUT MEAT. 39 

Strain all the liquor from the oysters; add the water,-.and heat. When near 
the boil, add the seasoning, then the oysters, Coolc about five minutes from 
the time they begin to simmer, until they *' rufifle." Stir in the butter, cook one 
minute, and pour into the tureen. Stir in the boiling milk, and send to table. 
Some prefer all water in place of milk. 

OYSTER SOUP. No. 2. 

Scald one gallon of oysters in their own hquor, Add'^one quart of rich milk 
to the liquor, and when it comes to a boil, skim out the oysters and set aside. 
Add the yolks of four eggs, two good tablespoonfuls of butter, and one of flour, 
all mixed well together, but in this order— first, the milk, then, after beating 
the eggs, add a little of the hot Uquor to them gradually, and stir them rapidly 
into- the soup. Lastly, add the butter and whatever seasoning you fancy besides 
plain pepper and salt, which must both be put in to taste with caution. Celery salt 
most persons like extremely; others would prefer a little marjoram and thyme; 
others, again, mace and a bit of onion. Use your own discretion in this regard. 

CLAM SOUP. (French Style.) 

Mince two dozen hard-shell clams very fine. Fry half a minced onion in an 
ounce of butter; add to it a pint of hot water, a pinch of mace, four cloves, one 
allspice and six whole pepper corns. Boil fifteen minutes and strain into a 
sauce-pan; add the chopped clams and a pint of clam- juice or hot water; simmer 
^wlytwo hours; strain and rub the pulp through a sieve into the liquid. 
Return it to the sauce- pan and keep it lukewarm. Boil three half- pints of milk 
in a sauce- pan (previously wet with cold water, which prevents burning) and 
whisk it into the soup. Dissolve a teaspoonf ul of flour in cold milk, add it to the 
soup, taste for seasoning; heat it gently to near the boiling point; pour it into a 
tureen previously heated with hot water, and serve with or without pieces of 
fried bread— called croutons in kitchen French. 

CLAM SOUP. 

Twenty -five clams chopped fine. Put over the fire the liquor that was 
drained from them, and a cup of water; add the chopped clams, and boil half 
an hour; then season to taste wdth pepper and salt and a piece of butter as large 
as an egg; boil up again and add one quart of milk boUing hot, stir in a table- 
spoon of flour made to a cream with a little cold milk, or two crackers rolled 
fine. Some Uke a little mace and lemon juice in the seasonmg. 



The usual custom among professional cooks is to entirely immerse the article 
to be cooked in boiling fat, but fiom inconvenience most households use the 
half-frying method of frying in a smaU amount of fat in a frying-pan. For the 
first method a shallow iron frying- kettle^ large at the top and small at the bottom, 
is best to use. The fat should half fill the kettle, or an amount sufficient to float 
whatever is to be fried; the heat of the fat should get to such a degree that, 
when a piece of bread or a teaspoonful of the batter is dropped in it, it will 
become brown almost instantly, but should not be so hot as to burn the fat. 
Some cooks say that the fat should be smoking, but my experience is, that is a 
mistake, as that soon ruins the fat. As soon as it begins to smoke it should be 
removed a httle to one side, and still be kept at the boiling point. If fritters, 
crullers, croquettes, etc., are dropped into fat that is too hot, it crusts over the 
outside before the inside has fuUy risen, making a heavy hard article, and also 
ruining the fat, giving it a burnt flavor. 

Many French cooks prefer beef fat or suet to lard for frying purposes, con- 
sidering it more wholesome and digestible, does not impart as much flavor, or 
adhere or soak into the article cooked as pork fat. 

In families of any size, where there is much cooking required, there are 
enough drippings and fat remnants from roasts of beef, skimmings from the 
soup-kettle, with the addition of occasionally a pound of suet from the market, 
to amply supply the need. All such remnants and skimmings should be clarified 
about twice a week, by boiling them aU together in water. When the fat is all 
melted, it should be strained with the water and set aside to cool. After the fat 
on the top has hardened, lift the cake from the water on which it lies, scrape off 
all the dark particles from the bottom, then rnelt over again the fat; while hot 
strain into a small clean stone jar or bright tin pail, and then it is ready for use. 
Always after frying anything, the fat should stand until it settles and has cooled 
somewhat; then turn off carefully so as to leave it clear from the sediment that 
settles at the bottom. 



FJSH. 41 

Refined cotton-seed oil is now being adopted by most professional cooks in 
hotels, restaurants, and many private households for culinary purposes, and will 
doubtless in future supersede animal fats, especially for frying, it being quite as 
delicate a medium as frying with olive oil. It is now sold by leading grocers, 
put up in packages of two and four quarts. 

The second mode of frying, using a frying-pan with a small quantity of fat 
or grease, to be done properly, should in the first place have the frying-pan hot 
over the fire, and the fat in it actually boiling before the article to be cooked is 
placed in it, the intense heat quickly searing up the pores of the article and 
forming a brown crust on the lower side, then turning over and browning the 
other the same way. 

Still, there is another mode of frymg; the process is somewhat similar to 
broiling, the hot frymg-pan or spider replacing the hot fire. To do this cor- 
rectly, a thick bottom frying-pan should be used. Place it over the fire, and 
when it is so hot that it will siss, oil over the bottom of the pan with a piece of 
suet, that is if the meat "is all lean; if not, it is not necessary to grease the 
bottom of the pan. Lay in the meat quite flat, and brown it quickly, first on one 
side then on the other; when sufficiently cooked, dish on a hot platter and season 
the same as broiled meats. 



fish 



In selecting fish, choose those only in which the eye is full and promment, 
the flesh tloick and fh-m, the scales bright and fins stiff. They should be thor- 
oughly cleaned before cooking. 

The usual modes of cooking fish are boiled, baked, broiled, fried and occa- 
sionally stewed. Steammg fish is much superior to boiling, but the ordinary 
conveniences in private houses do not admit of the possibihty of enjoying this 
delicate way of cooking it. Large fish are generally boiled, medium-sized ones 
baked or boiled, the smaller kinds fried or broiled. Very large fish, such as cod, 
baUbut, etc., are cut in steaks or slices for frying or broihng. The heads of some 
fish, as the cod, halibut, etc., are considered tidbits by many. Small fish, or 
pan fish, as they ar^ usually c'alled, are served without the heads, with the 
exception of brook -trouts and smelts; these are usuaDy cooked whole, with the 
head on. Bake fish slowly, basting often with butter and water. Salmon is 
considered the most nutritious of all fish. When boiling fish, by adding a little 
vinegar and salt to the water, it seasons and prevents the nutriment from being 
drawn out; the vinegar acting on the water hardens the water.. 



42 FISH. 

Fill the fish with a nicely prepared stuffing of rolled cracker or stale bread 
crumbs, seasoned with butter, pepper, salt, sage, and any other aromatic herbs 
fancied; sew up; wrap in a well-floured cloth, tied closely with twine, and boil 
or steam. The garnishes for boiled fish are: For turbot, fried smelts; for other 
boiled fish, parsley, sUced beets, lemon or sliced boiled egg. Do not use the 
knives, spoons, etc., that are used in cooking fish, for other food, or they will 
be apt to impart a fishy flavor. 

Fish tc be boiled should be put into cold water and set on the fire to cook 
very gently, or the outside will break before the inner part is done. Unless 
the fish are small, they should never be put into warm water; nor should water, 
either hot or cold, be poiu-ed on to the fish, as it is hable to break the skin: if it 
should be necessary to add a little water while the fish is cooking, it ought to be 
poured in gently at the side of the vessel. 

Fish to be broiled should lie, after they are dressed, for two or three houra 
with their inside weU sprinkled with salt and pepper. 

Salt fish should be soaked in water before boiling, according to the time it 
has been in salt. When it is hard and dry, it wiU require thirty-six hours soak- 
ing before it is dressed, and the water must be changed three or foiu* times. 
When fish is not very salt, twenty-four hours, or even one night, will suffice. 

"V^Tien fr}'ing fish the fire must be hot enough to bring the fat to such a 
degree of heat as to sear the surface and make it impervious to the fat, and at 
the same time seal up the rich juices. As soon as the fish is browned by this 
sudden application of heat, the pan may be moved to a cooler place on the stove, 
that the process may be finished more slowly. 

Fat in which fish has been fried is just as good to use again for the same 
purpose, but it should be kept by itself and not be put to any other use. 

TO FRY FISH. 

Most of the smaller fish (generally termed pan-fish) are usually fried. Clean 
well, cut off the head,, and, if quite large, cut out the backbone, and slice the 
body crosswise into five or six pieces; season with salt and pepper. Dip in 
Indian meal or wheat flour, or in beaten egg, and roll in bread or fine cracker 
crumbs— trout and perch should not be dipped in meal; put into a thick bot- 
tomed iron frying-pan, the flesh side dovni, with hot lard or drippings; fry 
slowly, turning when lightly browned. The following method may be deemed 
preferable: Dredge the pieces with flour; brush them over with beaten egg; roll 
in bread crumbs, and fry in hot lard or drippings sufficient to cover, the same 



FISB^ 43 

as frying crullers. If the fat is very hot, the fish will fry without absorbing it, 
and it will be palatably cooked. When browned on one side, turn if over in the 
fat and brown the other, draining when done. This is a particularly good way 
to fry slices of large fish. Serve with tomato sauce; garnish with slices of lemon. 

PAN FISH. 

Place them in a thick bottom frying-pan with heads all one way. FiU the 
spaces with smaller fish. When they are fried quite brown and ready to tiun, 
put a dinner plate over them, drain off the fat; then invert the pan, and they 
will be left unbroken on the plate. Put the -lard back into the pan, and when 
hot slip back the fish.. When the other side is biown, drain, turn on a plate as 
before, and slip them on a warm platter, to be sent to the table. Leaving the 
heads on and the fish a crispy-bixinm, in perfect shape, improves the appearance 
if not the flavor. Gafnish with sUces of lemon. 

— Hotel Lafayette, Philadelphia. 

BAKED PICKEREL. 

Carefully clean and wipe the fish, and lay in a dripping-pan with enough hot 
water to prevent scorching. A perforated sheet of tin, fitting loosely, or several 
muffin rings may be used to keep it off the bottom. Lay it in a circle on its 
beUy, head and tail toucliing, and tied, or as directed in note on fish; bake 
slowly, basting often with butter and water. When done, have ready a cup of 
sweet cream or rich milk to which a few spoons of hot water has been added; 
stir in two large spoons of melted butter and a Uttle chopped parsley; heat aU 
by setting the ciip in boiling water; add the gravy from the dripping-pan, and 
let it boil up once; place the fisH in a hot dish, and pour over it the sauce. Or 
an egg sauce may be made with drawn butter; stir ia the yolk of an egg quickly, 
and then a teaspoon of chopped parsley. It can be stuffed or not, just as you 
please. 

BOILED SALMON. 

The middle^ slice of salmon is the best. Sew up neatly in a mosquito-net 
bag, and boil a quarter of an hour to the pound in hot salted water. When done, 
unwi-ap with care, and lay upon a hot dish, taking care not to break it. Have 
ready a large cupful of drawn butter, very rich, in which has been stirred a 
tablespoonful of minced parsley and the juice of a lemon. Pour half upon the 
salmon, and serve the rest in a boat. Garnish vnih. parsley and sliced eggs. 



44 fJSH. 

BROILED SALMON. 

Cut slices from an inch to an inch and a half thick, dry them in a cloth, season 
with salt and pepper, dredge them in sifted flour, and broil on a gridiron rubbed 
with suet. 

Another mode. — Cut the slices one inch thick, and season them with pepper 
and salt; butter a^heet of white paper, lay each shce on a separate piece, envelope 
them in it with their ends twisted; broU gently over a clear fire, and serve with- 
anchovy or caper sauce. When higher seasoning is required, add a few chopped 
herbs and a little spice. 

FRESH SALMON FRIED. 

Cut the slices three-quarters of an inch thick, dredge them with flour, or dip 
them in egg and crumbs,— fry a light brown. This mode answers for all fish 
cut into steaks. Season well with salt and pepper. 

SALMON AND CAPER SAUCE. 

Two sUces of salmon, one-quarter poimd butter, one-half teaspoonful of 
chopped parsley, one shalot; salt and pepper to taste. 

Lay the salmon in a baking-dish, place pieces of butter over it and 
add the other ingredients, rubbing a little of the seasoning into the fish; place it 
in the oven and baste it frequently; when done, take it out and diain for a 
minute or two; lay it in a dish, pour caper sauce over it, and serve. Salmon 
dressed in this way, with tomato sauce, is very dehcious. 

BROILED SALT SALMON OR OTHER SALT FISH. 

Soak salmon in tepid or cold water twenty-four hours, changing water sev- 
eral times, or let stand under faucet of running water. If in a hurry or desiring 
a very salt reUsh, it may do to soak a short time, having water warm, and 
changing, parboiling slightly. At the hour wanted, broil sharply. Season to 
suit taste, covering with butter. This recipe will answer for all kinds of salt fish. 

PICKLED SALMON. 

Take a fine, fresh salmon, and having cleaned it, cut it into large pieces, and 
bwl it in salted water as if for eating. Then drain it, wrap it in a dry cloth, and 
set it in a. cold place till next day. Then make the pickle, which must be ia 



FISH. 45 

proportion to the (joantity of fish. To one quart of the water in wliich the 
sahnon was boiled, allow two quarts of the best vinegar, one ounce of whole 
black pepper, one nutmeg grated and a dozen blades of mace. Boil all these 
together in a kettle closely covered to prevent the flavor from evaporating. 
When the vinegar thus prepared is quite cold, pour it over the salmon, and put 
on the top a tablespoonf ul of sweet oil, which will make it keep the longer. 

Cover it closely, put it in a dry, cool place, and it will be good for many 
months. This is the nicest way of preserving salmon, and is approved by all 
who have tried it. 

SMOKED SALMON. 

Smoked salmon to be broiled should be put upon the gridiron first, with the 
flesh side to the fire. 

Smoked salmon is very nice when shaved like smoked beef, and served with 
coffee or tea. 

FRIGASSEE SALMON. 

This way of cooking fresh salmon is a pleasant change irom the ordinary 
modes of cooking it: Cut one and one-half pounds of salmon into pieces one 
inch square; put the pieces in a stewpan with half a cupful of water, a httle 
salt, a Uttle white pepper, one clove, one blade .of mace, three pieces of sugar, 
one shalot and a heaping teaspoonful of mustard mixed smoothly with half a 
teacupful of vinegar. Let this boil up once and add six tomatoes peeled and 
cut into tiny pieces, a few. sprigs of parsley finely minced, and one wineglassful 
of sherry. Let all simmer gently for three-quarters of an hour. Serve very 
hot, and garnish with dry toast cut in triangular pieces. This dish is good, very 
cold, for luncheon or breakfast, 

SALMON PATTIES. 

Cut cold cooked salmon into dice. Heat about a pint of the dice in half a 
pint of cream. Season to taste with cayenne pepper and salt. Fill the shells 
and serve. Cold cooked fish of any kind may be made into patties in this way. 
Use any fish sauce you choose— all are equally good. 

FISH AND OYSTER PIE. 

Any remains of cold fish, such as cod or haddock, 2 dozen oysters, pepper and 
salt to taste, bread-crumbs sufficient for the quantity of fish; \ teaspoonful of 
grated nutmeg, 1 teaspoonful of finely chopped parsley. 



46 FJSH, 

Clear the fish from the bones, and put a layer of it in a pie-dish, which 
sprinkle with pepper and salt; then a layer of bread-crumbs, oysters, nutmeg, 
and chopped parsley. Kepeat this till the dish is quite full. You may form a 
covering either of bread crumbs, which should be browned, or puff-paste, which 
should be cut off into long strips, and laid in cross-bars over the fish, with a hue 
of the paste first laid round the edge. Before putting on the top, pour in some 
made melted butter, or a little thin white sauce, and the oyster-liquor, and bake. 

Time. — If of cooked fish, \ hour; if made of fresh fish and puff-paste, | hour. 

STEAMED FISH. 

Secure the tail of the fish in its mouth, the body in a circle; pour over it 
half a pint of vinegar, seasoned with pepper and salt; let it stand an hour in a 
cool place; pour off the vinegar, and put it in a steamer over boiling water, and 
steam twenty minutes, or longer for large fish. When the meat easily sepai*ates 
from the bone it is done. Drain well, and serve on a very clean white napkin, 
neatly folded and placed on the platter; decorate the napkin around the fish with 
sprigs of curled parsley, or with fancifid beet cuttings, or alternately with 
both. 

TO BROIL A SHAD. 

Spht and wash the shad, and afterwards dry it in a cloth. Season it vdth 
salt and pepper. Have ready a bed of clear, bright coals. Grease your gridii'on 
well, and as soon as it is hot, lay the shad upon it, the flesh side down; cover 
with a dripping-pan and broil it for about a quarter of an hour, or more, accord- 
ing to the thickness. Butter it well, and send it to the table. Covering it while 
broiling gives it a more delicious flavor. 

BAKED SHAD. 

Many people are of the opinion that the very best method of cooking a shad 
is to bake it. Stuff it with bread-crumbs, salt, pepper, butter and parsley, and 
mix this up vdth the beaten yolk of Q%g\ fill the fish with it, and sew it up or 
fasten a Rtring around it. Pour over it a little water and some butter, and balce 
as you would a fowl. A shad will require from an hour to an hour and a 
quarter to bake. Garnish with slices of lemon, water cresses, etc. 

Dressing for Baked Shad. — Boil up the gravy in which the shad was baked, 
put in a large tablespoonf ul of catsup, a tablespoonful of brown flour which 
has been wet with cold water, the juice of a lemon, and a glass of sheny or Ma- 
deira wine. Serve in a sauce boat. 



FISH. 47 

TO COOK A SHAD ROE. 

Drop into boiling water, and cook gently for twenty minutes; then take from 
the fire, and drain. Butter a tin plate, and lay the drained roe upon it. Dredge 
well with salt and pepper, and spread soft butter over it; then dredge thickly 
with flour. Cook in the oven for half an hour, basting frequently with salt, 
pepper, flour, butter and water. 

TO COOK SHAD ROE. (Another Way.) 

First partly boil them in a small covered pan, take out and season them with 
salt, a little pepper, dredge with flour and fry as any fish; 

BOILED BASS. 

After thoroughly cleaniDg it place in a saucepan with enough water to cover it 
add two tablespoonfuls of salt; set the saucepan over the. fire, and when it has boiled 
about five minutes try to pull out one of the fins; if it loosens easily from the bodj 
carefully take the fish out of the water, lay it on a platter, surround it with half e 
dozen hard-boiled eggs, and serve it with a sauce. 

BOILED BLUEFISH. 
Boiled the same as Bass. 

BAKED BLUEFISH. 
Baked the same as Baked Shad — see page 46. 

FRIED EELS. 

After cleaning the eels well, cut them in pieces two inches long; wash them 
and wipe them dry; roll them in wheat flour or rolled cracker, and fry as di- 
rected for other fish, in hot lard or beef dripping, salted. They should be 
browned all over and thoroughly-done* 

Eels are^sometmies dipped in batter and then fried, or into egg and bread 
crumbs. Serve with crisped parsley.. 

SHEEPSHEAD WITH DRAWN BUTTER. 

Select a medium-sized fish, clean it thoroughly, and rub a Uttle salt over it; 
wrap it in a cloth and put it in a steamer; place this over a pot of fast-boiling 
•water and steam one hour; then lay it whole upon a hot side-dish, garnish with 



48 FISH^ 

tufts of parsley and slices of lemon, and serve with drawn butter, prepared as 
follows: Take two ounces of butter and roll it into small balls, dredge these 
with flour; put one-fourth of them in a sauce-pan, and as they begin to melt, 
whisk them; add the remainder, one at a time, until thoroughly smooth; while 
stirring, add a*tablespoonful of lemon juice, half a tablespoonful of chopped pars- 
ley; pour into a hot sauce boat, and serve. 



BAKED WHITE FISH. 

Thoroughly clean the fish; cut off the head or not, as preferred; cut out the 
backbone from the head to within two inches of the tail, and stuff with the fol- 
lowing: Soak stale bread in water, squeeze dry; cut in pieces a large onion, fry 
in butter, chop fine; add the bread, two ounces of butter, salt, pepper and a ht- 
tle parsley or sage; heat through, and when taken off the fire, add the yolks of 
two well-beaten eggs; stuff the fish rather full, sew up with fine twine, and 
wrap with several coils of white tape. Rub the fish over slightly with butter; 
just cover the bottom of a baking pan with hot water, and place the fish in it, 
standing back upward, and bent in the form of an S. Serve with the following 
dressing: Reduce the yolks of two hard-boUed eggs to a smooth paste with two 
tablespoonfuls good salad oil; stir in half a teaspoon English mustard, and add 
pepper and vinegar to taste. 

HALIBUT BOILED. 

The cut next to the tail-piece is the best to boil. Rub a little salt over it, 
Boak it for fifteen minutes in vinegar and cold water, then wash it and scrape 
it until quite clean; tie it in a cloth, and boU slowly over a moderate fire, allow- 
ing seven minutes boihng to each pound of fish; when it is half cooked, turn i\ 
over in the pot; serve with drawn butter or egg sauce. 

Boiled halibut minced with boiled potatoes, and a httle butter and milk, makea 
an excellent breakfast dish. 
- -• -i- . 

STEAMED HALIBUT. 

Select a three-pound pjece of white hahbut, cover it with a cloth and place it 
in a steamer; set the steamer over a pot of fast-boiling water and steam two 
hours: nlace it on a hot dish surrounded with a border of parsley, and serve with 
egg- sauce. 



FISH. 49 

FRIED HALIBUT. No. I. 

Select choice, firm slices from this large and deMcate-looking fish, and, after 
carefully -washing and drying with a soft towel, with a sharp knife take off the 
skiiL Beat up two eggs, and roU out some brittle crackers upon the kneading 
board imtil they are as fine as dust. Dip each sHce into the beaten egg, then 
into the cracker crumbs, (after you have salted and peppered the fish), and place 
them in a hot frying-pan half full of boihng lard, in which a little butter has 
been added to make the fish brown nicely: turn and brown both sides, remove 
from the frying-pan and drain. Serve hot. 

FRIED HALIBUT. No. 2. 

First fry a few thin sHces of salt pork until brown in an iron frying-pan; 
then take it up on a hot platter, and keep it warm until the hahbut is fried. 
After washing and drying two pounds of shced hahbut, sprinkle it with salt and 
pepper, dredge it well vsdth flour, put it into the hot pork-drippings and., fry 
brown on both sides; then serve the pork with the fish. 

Hahbut broiled in sHces is a very good way of cooking it, broiled the same as 
Spanish mackerel. 

BAKED HALIBUT. 
Take a nice piece of hahbut weighing five or six potmds, and lay it in salt 
water for two hours. Wipe it dry and score the outer skin. Set it in a drip- 
ping-pan in a moderate hot oven, and bake an hour, basting often with butter 
and water heated together in a sauce-pan or tin cup. When a fork will pene- 
trate it easily, it is done. It should be a fine, brown color. Take the gravy in 
the dripping-pan, add a Httle boiling water should there not be enough, stir in 
a tablespoonful of walnut catsup, a teaspoonful of Worcestershire sauce, the 
juice of a lemon, and thicken with brown flom*, previously wet with cold water. 
Boil up once and put in a sauce boat. 

HALIBUT BROILED. 

Broil the same as other fish, upon a buttered gridiron, ove; ^. clear fire, first 
seasoning with salt and pepper, placed on a hot dish when done, buttered well 
and cover closely. 

FRIED BROOK TROUT. 

These dehcate fish are usually fried, and .form a dehghtf ul breakfast or sup- 
per dish. Clear wash and dry the fish, split them to the tail, salt and pepper 



50 FISH. 

them, and flour them nicely. If you use lard instead of the fat of fried salt 
pork, put in a piece of butter to prevent their sticking, and which causes them 
to brown nicely. Let the fat be hot, fry quickly to a dehcate brown. They 
should be sufficiently browned on one side before turning on the other side. 
They are nice served with slices of fried pork, fried crisp. Lay them side by 
side on a heated platter, garnish and send hot to the table. They are often 
cooked and served with their heads on. 

FRIED SMELTS. 

Fried with their heads on the same as brook trout. Many think that they 
make a much better appearance as a dish when cooked whole with the heads 
on, and nicely garnished for the table. 

BOILED WHITE FISH. 

Taken from Mrs. A. W. Ferry's Cook Book, Mackinac, 1824. The most deh- 
cate mode of cooking white fish. Prepare the fish as for bi*oiling, laying it open; 
put it into a diipping-pan with the back down; nearly cover with water; to one 
fish two tablespoonfuls of salt; cover tightly and simmer (not boil) one-half 
hour. Dress with gravy, a httle butter and pepper, and garnish with hard- 
boiled eggs. 

BAKED WHITE FISH. (Bordeaux Sauce.) 

Clean and stuff the fish. Put it in a baking-pan and add a liberal quantity 
of butter, previously rolled in flour, to the fish. Put in the pan half a pint of 
claret, and bake for an hour and a quarter. Remove the fish and strain the 
gravy; add to the latter a gill more of claret, a teaspooijful of brown floiu* 
and a pinch of cayenne, and serve with the fish. 

— Plankington House, Mihoankw. 

BAKED SALMON TROUT. 

This dehciously flavored game-fish is baked precisely as shad or white fish, 
but should be accompanied with cream gravy to make it perfect. It should be 
baked slowly, basting often with butter and water. When done, have ready in 
a sauce-pan a cup of cream, diluted with a few spoonfuls of hot water, for fear 
it might clot in heating, in which have been stirred cautiously two tablespoon- 
fuls of melted butter, a scant tablespoonful of flour, and a little chopped parsley. 
Heat this in a vessel set within another of boiling water, add the gravy from the 



F/S/f. 51 

drippiiig-pau, boil up once to thicken, and when the troMt is laid on a suitable 
hot dish, pour this sauce around it. Garnish with sprigs of parsley. 

This same fish boiled, served with the same cream gravy, (with the exception 
of the fish gravy,) is the proper way to cook it. 

TO BAKE SMELTS. 

Wash and dry them thoroughly in a cloth, and arrange them nicely in a flat 
baJdng-dish; the pan should be buttered, also the fish; season with salt and. pep- 
per, and cover with bread or cracker-crumbs. Place a piece of butter over each. 
Bake for fifteen or twenty minutes. Garnish with fried j arsley and cut lemon. 

BROILED SPANISH MACKEREL. 

Split the fish down the back, take out the back bone, wash it in cold water, 
dry it with a clean dry cloth, sprinkle it lightly vnth salt and lay it on a but- 
tered gridiron, over a clear fire, with the flesh side downward, until it begins to 
brown; then turn the other side. Have ready a mixture of two tablespoonfuls 
of butter melted, a tablespoonful of lemon juice, a teaspoonful of salt, some pep- 
per. Dish up the fish hot from the gridiron on a hot dish, tm-n over the mix- 
ture and serve it while hot. 

Broiled Spanish mackerel is excellent vdth other fish sauces. Boiled Spanish 
mackerel is also very fine with most of the fish sauces, more especially " Matre 
d'Hotel Sauce." 

BOILED SALT MACKEREL. 

Wash and clean off all the brine and salt; put it to soak with the meat side 
down, in cold water over night; in the morning rinse it in one or two waters. 
Wrap each up in a cloth and put it into a kettle with considerable water, which 
should be cold; cook about thirty minutes. Take it carefully from the cloth, 
take out the back bones and pour over a little melted butter and cream; add a 
light sprinkle of pepper. Or make a cream sauce like the following: 

Heat a small cup of milk to scalding. Stir into it a teaspoonful of com- starch 
wet up with a little water. When this thickens, add two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
pepper, salt, and chopped parsley, to taste. Beat an egg light, pour the sauce 
gradually over it, put the mixture again over the fire, and ^ir one minute, not 
more. Pour upon the fish, and serve it with some slices of lemon, or a few 
sprigs of parsley or water-cresses, on the dish £is a garnish. 



57 FT SIT. 

BAKED SALT MACKEREL. 

When the mackerel have soaked over night, put them in a pan and pour on 
boUing water enough to cover. Let them stand a couple of minutes, then drain 
them off, and put them in the pan with a few lumps of butter; pour on a half 
teacupful of sweet cream, or rich milk, and a little pepper; set in the oven and 
let it bake a Mttle until brown. 

FRIED SALT MACKEREL. 

Select as many salt mackerel as required; wash and cleanse them well, then 
put them to soak all day in cold water, changing them every two hours; then 
put them into fresh water just before retiring. In the morning drain off the 
water, wipe them dry, roU them in flour, and fry in a httle butter on a hot thick- 
bottom frying-pan. Serve with a httle melted butter poured over, and garnish 
with a little parsley. 

BOILED FRESH MACKEREL. 

Fresh mackerel are cooked in water salted, and a httle vinegar added; with 
this exception they can be served in the same way as the salt mackerel. 
Broiled ones are very nice with the same cream sauce, or you can substitute egg 
sauce. 

POTTED FRESH FISH. 

After the fish has laid in salt water six hours, take it out, and to every six 
pounds of fish take one-quarter cupful each of salt, black pepper and cinnamon, 
one eighth cupful of allspice, and one teaspoonful of cloves. 

Cut the fish in pieces and put.into a half gallon stone baking-jar, first a layer 
of fish, then the spices, flour, and then spread a thin layer of butter on, and con- 
tinue so until the dish is full. Fill the jar vdth equal parts of vinegar and water, 
cover with tightly fitting hd, so that the steam cannot escape; bake five hours, 
remove from the oven, and when it is cold, it is to be cut in shoes and served. 
This is a tea or lunch dish. 

SCALLOPED CRABS. 

Put the crabs into a kettle of boiling water, and throw in a handful of salt. 
Boil from twenty minutes to half an hour. Take them from the water when 
done and pick out all the meat; be careful not to break the shell. TO- a pint of 
meat put a httle salt and pepper; taste, and if not enough add more, a little at a 



FISH. 53 

time, till suited. Grate in a very little nutmeg, and add one spoonful of cracker or 
bread-crumbs, two eggs well beaten, and two tablespoonf uls of butter (even full): 
stir all weU together; wash the sheUs clean, and fill each shell fuU of the mix- 
tiire; sprinkle crumbs over the top and moisten with the hquor; set in the oven 
tiU of a nice brown; a few minutes will do it. Send to the table hot, arranged 
on large dishes. They are eaten at breakfast or supper. 

FISH IN WHITE SAUCE. 

Flake up cold boiled halibut and set the plate into the steamer, that the fish 
may heat without drying. BoU the bones and skin of the fish with a slice of 
onion and a very small piece of red pepper; a bit of this the size of a kernel of 
coffee will make the sauce quite as hot as most persons Uke it. Boil this stock 
down to half a pint; thicken with one teaspoonful of butter and one teaspoonful 
of flour, mixed together. Add one drop of extract of almond. Pour this sauce 
over your halibut and stick bits of parsley over it. 

FRESH STURGEON STEAK MARINADE. 

Take one shce of sturgeon two inches thick; let it stand in hot water five 
minutes; drain; put it in a bowl and add a gill of vinegar, two tablespoonf uls of 
melted butter, half a teaspoonful of salt, a saltspoonful of black pepper, and the 
juice of half a lemon; let it stand six hours, turning it occasionally; drain and 
dry on a napkin; dip it in egg; roU in bread-crumbs, and fry, or rather boil, in 
very hot fat. Beat up the yolks of two raw eggs, add a teaspoonful of French 
mustard, and, by degrees, half of the marinade, to make a smooth sauce, which 
serve with the fish. 

POTTED FISH 

Take out the backbone of the fish; for one weighing two pounds take a table- 
spoonful of allspice and cloves mixed; these spices should be put into Httle bags 
of not too thick musUn; put sufiicient salt directly upon each fish; then roll in 
a cloth, over which sprinkle a httle cayenne pepper; put alternate layers of fish, 
spice and sage in an earthern jar; cover with the best cider vinegar; cover the 
jar closely with a plate, and over this put a covering of dough, roUed out to 
twice the thickness of pie crust. Make the edges of paste, to adhere closely to 
the sides of the jar, so as to make it air-tight. Put the jar into a pot of cold 
water and let it boil from three to nve hours, according to quantity. Ready 
when cold. 



54 ^^SH. 

MAYONNAISE FISH. 

Take a pound or so of cold boiled fish (halibut, rock, or cod), not chop, but 
cut, into pieces an inch in length. Mix in a bowl a dressing as follows: The 
yolk of four boiled eggs rubbed to a smooth paste with salad oil or butter; add 
to these salt, pepper, mustard, two teaspoonfuls of white sugar, and, lastly, 
six tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Beat the mixture until hght, and just before 
pouring it over the fish, stir in lightly the frothed white of a raw egg. Serve 
the fish in a glass dish, with half the dressing stirred in with it. Spread the 
remainder over the top, and lay lettuce leaves (from the core of the head of let- 
tuce) around the edges, to be eaten with it. 

FISH CHOWDER. (Rhode Island.) 

Fry five or six shces of fat pork crisp in the bottom of the pot you are to 
make your chowder in; take them out and chop them into small pieces, put them 
back into the bottom of the pot with their own gravy. (This is much better 
than having the slices whole.) 

Cut four pounds of fresh cod or sea-bass into pieces two inches square, and 
lay enough of these on the pork to cover it. Follow with a layer of chopped 
onions, a little parsley; summer savory and pepper, either black or cayenne. 
Then a layer of spht Boston, or butter, or whole cream crackers, which have 
been soaked in warm water imtil moistened through, but not ready to break. 
Above this put a layer of pork, and repeat the order given above — onions, sea- 
soning, (not too much), crackers and pork, until yom* materials are exhausted. 
Let the topmost layer be buttered crackers well soaked. Pour in enough cold 
water to barely cover all. Cover the pot, stew gently for an hour, watching 
that the water does not sink too low. Should it leave the upper layer exposed, 
replenish cautiously from the boihng tea-kettle. When the chowder is thoroughly 
done, take out with a perforated skimmer and put into a- tureen. Thicken the 
gravy with a tablespoonful of flour and about the same quantity of butter; boil 
up and pour over the chowder. Serve sUced lemon, pickles and stewed toma- 
toes with it, that the guests may add if they like. 

CODFISH BALLS. 

Take a pint bowl of codfish picked very fine, two pint bowls of whole I'aw 
peeled potatoes, sliced thickly; put them together in plenty of cold water and 
boil until the potatoes are thoroughly cooked; remove from the fire, and drain 
ofif all the water. Mash them with the potato masher, add a piece of butter the 



FISH. 55 

size of an egg, one well-beaten egg, and thi-ee spoonfuls of cream or rich milk, 
Flom' your hands and make into balls or cakes. Put an ounce each of butter 
and lard into a frying pan; when hot, put in the balls and fry a nice brown. Do 
not freshen the fish before boiling with the potatoes. Many cooks fry them in a 
quantity of lard similar to boiled doughnuts. 

STEWED CODFISH. (Salt.) 
Take a thick, white piece of salt codfish, lay it in cold water for a few min- 
utes to soften it a httle, enough to render it more easily to be picked up. Shred 
it in very small bits, put it over the fire in a stew-pan with cold water; let it 
come to a boil, turn off this water carefully, and add a pint of milk to the fish, 
or more according to quantity. Set it over the fire again and let it boil slowly 
about three minutes, now add a good-sized piece of butter, a shake of pepper 
and a thickening of a tablespoonf ul of fiour in enough cold milk to make a cream. 
Stew five minutes longer, and just before serving stir in two well-beaten eggs. 
The eggs are an addition that could be dispensed with, however, as it is very 
good without them. An excellent breakfast dish. 

CODFISH A LA MODE. 
Pick up a teacupful of salt codfish very fine, and freshen— the dessicated is 
nice to use; two cups mashed potatoes, one pint cream or milk, two well-beaten 
eggs, haK a cup butter, salt and pepper; mix; bake in an earthen baking dish 
from twenty to twenty-five minutes; serve in the same dish, placed on a small 
platter, covered with a fine napkin. 

BOILED FRESH COD. 

Sew up the piece of fish in tliin cloth, fitted to shape; boil in salted water 
(boihng from the first), allowing about fifteen minutes to the pound. Carefully 
unwrap, and pour over it warm oyster sauce. A whole one boUed the same. 

— Hold Brighton, 
SCALLOPED FISH. 

Pick any cold fresh fish, or salt codfish, left from the dinner, into fine bits, 
carefully removing all the bones. 

Take a pint of milk in a suitable dish, and place it in a sauce pan- of boiling 
water; put into it a few slices of onion, cut very fine, a sprig of parsley minced 
fine, add a piece of butter as large as an egg, a pinch of salt, a sprinkle of white 
pepper, then stir in two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, or flour, rubbed in a little 
cold milk; let all boil up and remove from the fire. Take a dish you wish to 



56 FISH. 

serve it in, butter the sides and bottom. Put first a layer of the minced fish, 
then a layer of the cream, then sprinkle over that some cracker or bread-crumbs, 
then a layer of fish again, and so on, until the dish is full; spread cracker or 
bread-crumbs last on the top, to prevent the milk from scorching. 

This is a very good way to use up cold fish, making a nice breakfast dish, or 
a side-dish for dinner. 

FISH FRITTERS. 

Take a piece of salt codfish, pick it up very fine, put it into a sauce-pan, with 
plenty of cold water; bring it to a boil, turn off the water, and add another of 
cold water; let this boil with the fish about fifteen minutes, very slowly; strain 
off this water, making the fish quite dry, and set aside to cool. In the meantime, 
stir up a batter of a pint of milk, four eggs, a pinch of salt, one large teaspoon- 
f ul of baking powder in flour, enough to make vthicker than batter cakes. Stir 
in the fish and fry like any fritters. Very fijie accompaniment to a good break- 
fast. 

BOILED SALT CODFISH. (New England Style). 
Cut the fish into square pieces, cover with cold water, set on the back part of 
the stove; when hot, pour off water and cover again with cold water; let it 
stand about four hours and simmer, not boil ; put the fish on a platter, then 
cover with a drawn-butter gravy, and serve. Many cooks prefer soaking the 
fish over night. 

BOILED CODFISH AND OYSTER SAUCE. 

Lay the fish in cold salted water half an hour before it is time to cook it, then 
roll it in a clean cloth dredged with flour; sew up the edges in such -a manner 
as to envelope the fiish entirely, yet have but one thickness of cloth over any 
part. Put the fish into boiling water, shghtly salted; add a few whole cloves 
and peppers and a bit of lemon peel; pull gently on the fins, and wiien they come 
out easily the fish is done. Arrange neatly on a folded napkin, garnish and 
serve with oyster sauce. Take six oysters to every pound of fish and scald 
(blanch) them in a half -pint of hot oyster liquor; take out the oysters and add to 
the liquor, salt, pepper, a bit of mace and an ounce of butter; whip into it a giU 
of milk containing half of a teaspoonful of floiu-. Sinamer a moment; add 
the oysters, and send to table in a sauce-boat. Egg sauce is good with this fish. ' 

BAKED CODFISH. 

Tf salt fish, soak, boil and pick the fish, the same as for fish-balls. Add an 
equal quantity of mashed potatoes, or_cold, boiled, chopped potatoes, a large 



SHELL-FISH. 57 

piece of butter, and warm milk enough to make it quite sott. Put it into a but 
tered dish, rub butter over the top, shake over a httle sifted flour, and bake about 
thirty minutes, and until a rich brown. Make a sauce of drawn butter, with 
two hard-boiled eggs shced, served in a gravy-boat. 

CODFISH STEAK. (New England Style.) 

Select a medium-sized fresh codfish, cut it in steaks cross-wise of the fish, ' 
about an inch and a half thick; sprinkle a httle salt over them, and let them 
Btand two hours. Cut into dice a poimd of salt fat pork, fry out aU the fat 
from them and remove the crisp bits of pork; put the codfish steaks in a pan of 
corn meal, dredge them with it, and when the pork fat is smoking hot, fry the 
steaks in it to a dark-brown color on both sides. Squeeze over them a httle 
lemon juice, add a dash of freshly ground pepper, and serve with hot, old-fash- 
ioned, weU-buttered Johnny Cake. 

SALMON CROQUETTES. 

One pound of cooked salmon (about one and a half pints when chopped),' 
one cup of cream," two tablespoonfuls of butter, one tablespoonful of flour, three 
eggs, one pint of crumbs, pepper and salt; chop the salmon fine, mix the flour 
and butter together, let the cream come to a boil, and stir in the flour and butter, 
salmon and seasoning; boil one minute; stir in one well-beaten egg, and remove 
from the fire; when cold make into croquettes; dip in beaten egg, roU in crumbs 
and fry. Canned salmon can be used. 



STEWED WATER TURTLES, OR TERRAPINS. 

Select ^he largest, thickest and fattest, the females being the best; they should 
be ahve when brought from market. ..Wash and put them alive into boDing 
water, add a httle salt, and boil them imtil thoroughly done, or from ten to fif- 
teen minutes, after which take off the sheU, extract the meat, and remove care- 
fully the sand-bag and gaU; also all the entrails; they are unfit to eat, and are 
no longer used in cooking terrapins for the best tables. Cut the meat into 
pieces, and put it into a stew-pan with its eggs, and sufficient fresh butter to 
, stew it well. Let it stew till quite hot throughout, keeping the pan carefully 



S8 SHELL-FISH. 

covered, that none of the flavor may escape, but shake it over the fire while 
stewing. In another pan make a sauce of beaten yolk of egg, highly flavored 
with Madeira or sherry, and powdered nutmeg and mace, a gill of currant jelly, 
a pinch of cayenne pepper, and salt to taste, enriched with a large lump of fresh 
butter. Stir this sauce well over the fire, and when it has almost come to a boil, 
take it off. Send the terrapins to the table hot in a covered dish, and the sauce 
separately in a sauce-tui-een, to be used by those who like it, and omitted by 
those who prefer the genuine flavor of the terrapins when simply stewed with 
butter. This is now the usual mode of dressing terrapins in Maryland, Virginia, 
and many other parts of the South, and will be found superior to any other. If 
there are no eggs in the terrapin, "egg balls" may be substituted. (See recipe). 

STEWED TERRAPIN, WITH CREAM. 

Place in a sauce-pan, two heaping tablespoonfuls of butter and one of dry 
flour; stir it over the fire until it bubbles; then gradually stir in a pint of cream, 
a teaspoonful of salt, a quarter of a teaspoonful of white pepper, the same of 
grated nutmeg, and a very small pinch of cayenne. Next, put in a pint of ter- 
rapin meat and stir all until it is scalding hot. Move the sauce-pan to the back 
part of the stove or range, where the contents will keep hot but not boil; then 
stir in four well -beaten yolks of eggs; do not allow the terrapin to boil after add- 
ing the eggs, but pour it immediately into a tureen containing a gill of good 
Madeira and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. Serve hot. 

STEWED TERRAPIN. 

Plunge the terrapins alive into boiling water, and let them remain until the 
sides and lower shell begin to crack — this will take less than an hour; then re- 
move them and let them get cold; take off the shell and outer sldn, being care- 
ful to save aU the blood possible in opening them. If there are eggs in them put 
them aside in a dish; take all the inside out, and be very careful not to break 
the gall, which must be immediately removed or it wiU make the rest bitter. 
U hes within the liver. Then cut up the hver and all the rest of the terrapin 
into small pieces, adding the blood and juice that have flowed out in cutting up; 
add half a pint of water; sprinkle a httle flour over them as you place them in 
the stew-pan; let them stew slowly ten minutes, adding salt, black and cayenne 
pepper, and a very small blade of mace; then add a gill of the best brandy and 
half a pint of the very best sherry -wine; let it simmer over a slow fire very 
gently. About ten minutes or so, before you are ready to dish them, a(M half a 
pint of rich cream, and half a pound of sweet butter, with flour, to prevent boil- 



SHELL-FISH 59 

ing; two or three minutes before taking them off the fire, peel the eggs carefully 

and throw them in whole. If there should be no eggs use the yolk of hens' eggs, 

hard boiled. This receipt is for four terrapins. 

— Rennert's Hotel, Baltimore. 

BOILED LOBSTER. 

Put a handful of salt into a large kettle or pot of boiling water. When the 
water boils very hard, put in the lobster, having first brushed it, and tied the 
claws together with a bit of twine. Keep it boiling from 20 minutes to half an hour 
in proportion to its size. If boiled too long the meat wiU be hard and stringy. 
When it is done take it out, lay it on its claws to drain, and then wipe it dry. 

It is scarcely necessary to mention that the head of a lobster, and what are 
called the lady- fingers, are not to be eaten. 

Very large lobsters are not the best, the meat being coarse and tough. The 
male is best for boiling; the flesh is firmer, and the shell a brighter red; it may 
readily be distinguished from the female; the tail is narrower, and the two up- 
per-most fins within the tail are stiff and hard. Those of the hen lobster are 
not so, and the tail is broader. 

Hen lobsters are preferred for sauce or salad, on account of their coral. The 
head and small claws are never used. 

They should be aUve and freshly caught when put into the boihng kettle. 
After being cooked and cooled, spUt open the body and tail, and crack the claws, 
to extract the meat. The sand pouch found near the throat should be removed. 
Care should be exercised that none of the feathery, tough, gill-like particles 
found under the body shell get mixed with the meat, as they are indigestible, 
and have caused much trouble. They are supposed to be the cause of so-called 
poisoning from eating lobster. 

Serve on a platter. Lettuce, and other concomitants of a salad, should also be 
placed on the table or platter. 

SCALLOPED LOBSTER. 

Butter a deep dish, and cover the bottom with fine bread-crumbs; put on this 
a layer of chopped lobster, with pepper and salt; so on alternately until the dish is 
filled, having crumbs on top. Put on bits of butter, moisten with milk, and 
bake about twenty minutes. 

DEVILED LOBSTER. 

Take out all the meat from a boiled lobster, reserving the coral; season highly 
with mustard, cayenne, salt and some kind of table sauce; stew until weU mixed. 



6o SHELL-FISH. 

and put it in a covered sauce-pan, with just enough hot water to keep from 
burning; rub the coral smooth, moistening with vinegar until it is thin enough 
to pour easily, then stir it into the sauce-pan. The dressing should be prepared 
before the meat is put on the fire, and which ought to boil but once before the 
coral is put in; stir in a heaping teaspoonful of butter, and when it boils again it 
is done, and should be taken up at once, as too much' cooking toughens the 
meat. 

LOBSTER CROQUETTES. 

Take any of the lobster remaining from table, and pound it until the dark, 
light meat and coral are well mixed; put with it not quite as much fine bread- 
crumbs; season with pepper, salt and a very little cayenne pepper; add a httle 
melted butter, about two tablespoonfuls if the bread is rather dry; form into 
egg-shaped or round balls; roll them in egg, then in fine crurnbs, and fry in boil • 
ing lard. 

LOBSTER PATTIES. 

Cut some boiled lobster in small pieces; then take the small claws and the 
spawn, put them in a suitable dish, and jam them to a paste with a potato 
masher. Now add to them a ladleful of gravy or both, with a few bread-crumbs 
set it over the fire and boil; strain it through a strainer, or sieve, to the thickn'3ss 
of a cream, and put half of it to your lobsters, and save the other half to sauce 
them with after they are baked. Put to the lobster the bigness of an egg of 
butter, a httle pepper and salt; squeeze in a lemon, and warm these over the fire 
enough to melt the butter, set it to cool, and sheet your patty-pan or a plate or 
dish with good puff paste; then put in your lobster, and cover it with a paste; 
bake it within three-quarters of an hour before you want it; when it is baked, 
cut up your cover, and warm up the other half of your sauce above mentioned, 
with a httle butter, to the thickness of cream, and pour it over your patty, with 
a Uttle squeezed lemon; cut your cover in two, and lay it on the top, two inches 
distant, so that what is under may be seen. You may bake crawfish, shrimps 
or prawns the same way; and they are all proper for plates or httle dishes for a 
second course. 

LOBSTER A LA NEWBURG. 

Take one whole lobster, cut up in pieces about as large as a hickory nut. Put in 
the same pau with a piece of butter size of a walnut, season with salt and pepper 
to taste, and thicken with heavy cream sauce; add the yolk of one egg and two oz. 
of sherry wine. 



SHELL-FISH. 6l 

Cream Sauce for above i8 made as follows : 1 oz. butter, melted in sauee pan, 
'1 oz. flour, mised with butter; thin down to proper consistency with boiling 
cream. 

— Rector's Oyster House, Chicago. 

BAKED CRABS. 

Mix with the contents of a can of crabs, bread-crumbs or pounded crackers. 
Pepper and salt the whole to taste; mince some cold ham; have the baking-pan 
well buttered, place therein first a layer of the crab meat, prepared as above, 
then a layer of the minced ham, and so on, alternating until the pan is filled. 
Cover the top with bread-crumbs and bits of butter, and bake. 

DEVILED CRABS. 

Half a dozen fresh crabs, boiled and minced, two ounces of butter, .one small 
teaspoonful of mustard powder; cayenne pepper and salt to taste. Put the 
meat into a bowl and mix caref uUy with it an equal quantity of fine bread- 
crumbs. Work the butter to a hght cream, mix the mustard well with it, then 
stir in very carefully, a handful at a time, the mixed crabs, a tablespoonful of 
cream, and crumbs. Season, to taste with cayenne pepper and salt: fill the crab 
shells vsdth the mixture, sprinkle bread-crumbs over the tops; put three small 
pieces of butter upon the top of each, and brown them quickly in a hot oven. 
They wiU puff in baking and will be found very nice. Half the quantity can be 
made A crab-shell wiU hold the meat of two crabs. 

CRAB CROQUETTES. 

Pick the meat of boiled crabs and chop it fine. Season to taste with pepper, 
salt aiid melted butter. Moisten it well with rich milk or cream, then stiffen it 
slightly with bread or cracker-crumbs. Add two or three weE-beaten eggs to 
bind .the mixture. Form the croquettes, egg and bread-crumb them and fry 
them dehcately in boiling lard. It is better to use a wire frying-basket for cro- 
quettes of all kinds. 

TO MAKE A CRAB PIE. 

Procure the crabs alive, and put them in boiling water, along with some salt. 
Boil them for a quarter of an hour or twenty minutes, according to the size. 
When cold, pick the meat from the claws and body. Chop all together, and 
mix it with crumbs of bread, pepper and salt, and a httle butter. Put all this 
into the shell, and brown in a hot oven. A crab-shell will hold the meat of two 
crabs. 



63 SHELL-FISH. 

CRABS. (Soft Shell.) 

Crabs may be boiled as lobsters. They make a fine dish when stewed. Take 
out the meat from the shell, put it into a sauce- pan with butter, pepper, salt, a 
pinch of mace, and a very little water; dredge with flour, and let sinuner five 
minutes over a slow fire. Serve hot; garnish the dish with the claws laid 
around it. 

The usual way of cooking them is frying them in plenty of butter and lard 
mixed; prepare them the same as frying fish. The spongy substance from the 
sides should be taken off, also the sand bag. Fry a nice brown, and garnish 
with parsley. 

OYSTERS. 

Oysters must be fresh and fat to be good. They are in season from Septem- 
ber to May. 

The small ones, such as are sold by the quart, are good for pies, fritters, or 
stews; the largest of this sort are nice for frying or pickling for family use. 

FRIED OYSTERS. 

Take large oysters from their own hquor into a thickly folded napkin to dry 
them; then make hot an ounce each of butter and lard, in a thick-bottom fry- 
ing-pan. Season the oysters with pepper and salt, then dip each one into egg 
and cracker-crumbs roUed fine, until it will take up no more. Place them in the 
' hot grease and fry them a delicate brown, turning them on both sides by sliding 

a broadbladed knife under them. Serve them crisp and hot. 

— Boston Oyster House. 

Some prefer to roll oysters in corn-meal and others use flour, but they are 

much more crisp with egg and cracker-crumbs. 

OYSTERS FRIED IN BATTER. 

Ingredients. — \ pint of oysters, 2 eggs, i pint of milk, sufficient flour to make 
the batter; pepper and salt to taste; when liked, a httle nutmeg; hot lard. 

Scald the oysters in their own hquor, beard them, and lay them on a cloth 
to drain thoroughly. Break the eggs into a basin, mix the flour with them, add 
the milk gradually, with nutmeg and seasoning, and put the oysters in a batter. 
Make some lard hot in a deep frying-pan; put in the oysters, one at a time; when 
done, take them up with a sharp-pointed skewer, and dish them on a napkin. 
Fried oysters are frequently used for garnishing boiled fish, and then a few 
bread-crumbs should be added to the flour. 



SHELL-FISH. 63 

STEWED OYSTERS. (In Milk or Cream.) 
Drain the liquor from two quarts of oysters; mix with ^t a small teacupful 
of hot water, add a httle salt and pepper, and set it over the fire in a sauce-pan. 
Let it hoU up once, put in the oysters, let them come to a boU, and when they 
"ruffle" add two tablespoonfuls of butter. The instant it is melted and well 
stirred in, put in a pint of boiling milk, and take the. satice-pan from the fire. 
Serve with oyster or cream cx-ackers. Serve while hot, 

If thickening is prefen-ed.stir in a httle flour or two tablespoonfuls of cracker- 
crumbs. 

PLAIN OYSTER STEW. 

Same as nailk or cream stew, using only oyster hquor and water instead of 
milk or cream, adding more butter after taking up. 

OYSTER SOUP. 

For oyster soup, see Soups. 

DRY OYSTER STEW. 

Take six to twelve large oysters and cook them in half a pint of their own 
liqtior; season with butter and white pepper; cook for five minutes, stirring con- 
stantly. Serve in hot soup-plates or bowls. 

— Fulton Market, Neio York. 

BOSTON FRY. 

Prepare the oysters in egg batter and fine cracker meal; fry in butter over a 
slow fire for about ten minutes; cover the hollow of a hot platter with tomato 
sauce; place the oysters in it, but not covering; garnished with chopped parsley 
sprinkled over the oysters. 

— Boston Oyster House. 

BROILED OYSTERS. 

Dry a quart of oysters in a cloth, dip each in melted butter well peppered; 
then in beaten egg, or not, then in bread or cracker-crumbs, also peppered. 
Broil on a wire broiler over hve coals, three to five minutes. * Dip over each a 
little melted butter. Serve hot. 

ROAST OYSTERS IN THE SHELL. 

Select the large ones, those usually termed " Saddle Rocks/' formerly known 
as a distinct variety, but which are now but the large oysters 'selected from any 
beds; wash and wipe them, and place with the upper or deep" shell down, to, 



f>4 SHELL-FISH. 

catch the juice, over or on live coals. When they open their shells,- remove the 
shallow one, being careful to save all the juice in the other; place them, shells and 
all, on a hot platter, and send to table hot, to be seasoned by each person with 
butter and pepper to taste. If the oysters are fine, and they are just cooked 
enough and served all hot, this is, jp^r excellence^ the style. 

OYSTER ROAST. No. 2. 

Put one quart of oysters in a basin with their own hquor and let them boil 
three or four minutes; season with a Uttle salt, pepper and a heaping spoonful 
of butter. Serve on buttered toast. 

STEAMED OYSTERS. 

Wash and drain a quart of counts or select oysters; put them in a shallow 
pan and place in a steamer over boiling water; cover and steam till they are 
plump, with the edges ruffled, but no longer. Place in a heated dish, with but- 
ter, pepper and salt, and serve. 

— Baltimore Style, 

STEAMED OYSTERS IN THE SHELL. 

Wash and place them in an air-tight vessel, laying them the upper shell 
downward, so that the liquor will not run out when they open. Place this dish 
or vessel over a pot of boihng water where they will get the steam. Boil them 
rapidly until the shells open, about fifteen to twenty minutes. Serve at once 
while hot. seasoned with butter, salt and pepper. 

PAN OYSTERS. No. i. 

Cut some stale bread in thin shces, taking off all the crust; round the slices 
to fit patty-pans, toast, butter, place them in the pans and moisten with three or 
four teaspoonfuls of oyster hquor; place on the toast a layer of oysters, sprinkle 
with pepper, and put a small piece of butter on top of each pan; place all the 
pans in a baking-pan, and place in the oven, covering tightly. They will cook 
in seven or eight minutes if the oven is hot; or, cook till the beards are ruffled; 
remove the cover, sprinkle hghtly with salt, replace, and cook one minute 

longer. Serve in patty-pans. They are dehcious. 

— New York Style. 

PAN OYSTERS. No. 2. 

Lay in a thin pie-tin or dripping-pan half a pint of large oysters, or more if 
required; have the pan large enough so that each oyster will lie flat on the bot- 



SHELL-FISH. 65 

torn; put ill over them a little oyster liquor, but not enough to float; place them 
carefully in a hot oven and just heat them through thoroughly— dp not bake 
them— which will be in three to five minutes, according to fire; take them up 
and place on toast; first moistened with the hot juice from the pan. Are a very 
good substitute for oysters roasted in the shell, the slow cooking bringing out 

the flavor. 

— French Restaurant, New Orleans, La. 

OYSTER FRITTERS. 

Select plump, good-sized oysters; drain off the juice, and to a cup of this 
juice add a cup of milk, a httle salt, four well-beaten eggs, and flour enough. to 
make batter hke griddle-cakes. 

Envelop an oyster in a spoonful of this batter, (some cut them in halves or 
chop them fine,) then fry in butter and lard, mixed in a frying-pan the same as 
we fry eggs, turning to fry brown on both sides. Send to the table very hot. 

— Delmonico. • 

Most cooks fry oyster fritters the same as crullers, in a quantity of hot 
lard, but this is not always convenient; either way they are excellent. 

OYSTER PATTIES. 

Line patty-pans vdth thin pastry, pressing it well to the tin. Put a piece 
of bread or a ball of paper in each. Cover them with paste and brush them over 
■with the white of an egg. Cut an inch square of thin pastry, place oil the 
centre of each, glaze this also with egg, and bake in a quick oven fifteen to 
twenty minutes. Remove the bread or paper when half cold. 

Scald as many oysters as you require (allowing two for each patty, three if 
small) in their own liquor. Cut each in four and strain the liquor. Put two 
tablespoonfuls of butter and two of flour into a thick sauce-pan; stir them 
together over the fire till the flour smells cooked, and then pour half a pint of 
oyster liquor and half a pint of milk into the flour and butter. (If you have 
cream, use it instead of milk.) Stir till it is a thick, smooth sauce. Put the 
oysters into it and let them boil once. Beat the yolks of two eggs. Remove 
the oysters for one minute from the fire, then stir the eggs into them till the 
sauce looks like thick custard. 

Fill the patties with this oyster fricassee, taking care to make it hot by stand- 
ing in boiling water before dinner on the day required, and to make the patty 
cases hot before you fill them. 



66 SHELL-flSH. 

FULTON MARKET ROAST. 

It is still known in New York from the place at which it was and is still 
served. Take nine large oysters in the shell ; wash, dry and roast over a char- 
coal fire, OD a broiler. Two minutes after the shells open they wiU be done. 
Take them up quickly, saving the juice in a small, shallow, tin pan; keep hot 
until all are done; butter them and sprinkle •with pepper. 

This is served for one person when calling for a roast of this kind. It is often 
poured over a slice of toast. 

SCALLOPED OYSTERS. 
Have ready about a pint bowl of fine cracker-crumbs. Butter a deep earthen 
dish; put a layer of the cracker-crumbs on the bottom; wet this with some of 
the oyster Uquor; next have a layer of oysters; sprinkle vf\\h salt and pepper, 
and lay small bits of butter upon them; then another layer of cracker-crumbs 
and oyster juice; then oysters, pepper, salt and butter, and so on, until the dish 
is full; the top layer to be cracker-crumbs. Beat up an egg in a cup of milk and 
turn over all. Cover the dish and set it in the oven for tliirty or forty-five minutes. 
When baked through, uncover the top, set on the upper grate and brown. 

OYSTER POT-PIE. 

Scald a quart can of oysters in their own liquor; when it boils, skim out the 

oysters and set aside in a warm place. To the hquor add a pint of hot water; 

season well with salt and pepper, a generous piece of butter, thicken with flour 

and cold milk. Have ready nice light biscuit dough, rolled twice as thick as 

pie-crust; cut out into inch squares, drop them into the boiling stew, cover closely, 

and cook forty minutes. When taken up, stir the oysters into the juice and 

serve all together in one dish. A nice side entree. 

— Princt^s Bay, S.I. 

BOSTON OYSTER PIE. 

Having buttered the inside of a deep pie-plate, hne it with puff- paste, or 

common pie-crust, and prepare another sheet of paste for the lid; put a clean 

towel into the dish (folded so as to support the Ud), set it into the oven and bake 

the paste well; when done, remove the hd and take out the towel. While the 

paste is baking prepare the oysters. Having picked off carefully every bit of 

sheU that may be found about them, drain off the hquor into a pan and put the 

oysters into a stew-pan with barely enough of the hquor to keep them from 

burning; season them with pepper, salt and butter; add a Uttle sweet cream 

or milk, and one or two crackers rolled fine; let the oysters simmer, but not 



SHELL-FISH. 67 

hoil, as that will shrivel them. Remove the upper crust of pastry and fill the 
dish vinth the oysters and gravy; replace the cover and serve hot. 

Some prefer baking the upper crust on a pie-plate, the same size as the pie, 
then slipping it off on top of the pie after the same is filled w^ith the oysters. 

MOCK OYSTERS. 

Grate the corn, while green and tender, with a coarse grater, into a deep 
ilish. To two ears of corn, allow one egg; beat the whites and yolks separately, 
and add them to the corn, with one tablespoonful of wheat flour and one of 
butter, a teaspoonful of salt and pepper to taste. Drop spoonfuls of this batter 
into a frying pan with hot butter and lard mixed, and fry a light brown on both 
sides. 

In taste, they have a singular resemblance to fried oysters. The com must 
be young. 

FRICASSEED OYSTERS. 

Take a slice of raw ham, which has been pickled, but not smoked, and soak 
m boiling water for half an horn'; cut it in quite small pieces, and put in a sauce- 
pan with two-thirds of a pint of veal or cliicken broth, well strained; the hquor 
from a quart of oysters, one small onion, minced fine, and a httle chopped 
parsley, sweet marjoram, and pepper; let them simmer for twenty minutes, and 
then boil rapidly two or three minutes; skim well, and add one scant table- 
spoonful of corn-starch, mixed smoothly in one-tliird cup of milk; stir constantly, 
and when it boils add the oysters and one ounce of butter; after which, just let 
it come to a boil, and remove the oysters to a deep dish; beat one egg, and add 
to it gradually some of the hot broth, and, when cooked, stir it into the pan; 
season with salt, and pour the whole over the oysters. When placed upon the 
table, squeeze the juice of a lemon over it. 

SMALL OYSTER PIES. 

For each pie take a tin plate half the size of an ordinary dinner plate; butter 
it, and cover the bottom with a puff paste, as for pies; lay on it five or six select 
oysters, or enough to cover the bottom; butter them and season with a little salt 
and plenty of pepper; spread over this an egg batter, and cover with a crust of 
the paste, maldng smaU openings in it with a fork. Bake in a hot oven fifteen 
to twenty minutes, or until the top is nicely browned. 

— Boston Oyster House. 



68 SHELl^FISH. 

STEWED CLAMS. 

Wash clean as many round clams as required; pile them in a large iron pot, 
with half a cupful of hot water in the bottom, and put over the fire; as soon as 
the shells open, take out the clams, cut off the hard, uneatable " fringe " from 
each, with strong, clean scissors, put them into a stew-pan with the broth from 
the pot, and boQ slowly tiU they are quite tender; pepper well, and thicken the 
gravy with flour, stirred into melted butter. 

Or, you may get two dozen freshly opened very small clams. Boil a pint of 
milk, a dash of white pepper and a smaU pat of butter. Now add the clams. 
Let them come to a boil, and serve. Longer boiling will make the clams almost 
indigestible. 

ROAST CLAMS IN THE SHELL. 

Eoast in a pan over a hot fire, or in a hot oven, or, at a " Clam Bake," on hot 

stones; when they open, empty the juice into a sauce-pan; add the clams with 

butter, pepper and a very Uttle salt. 

— Rye Beach. 

CLAM FRITTERS. 

Take fifty small or twenty-five large sand clams from their shells; if large, 

cut each in two, lay them on a thickly folded napkin; put a pint bowl of wheat 

flour into a basin, add to it three weU-beaten eggs, half a pint of sweet milk, 

and nearly as much of their own hquor; beat the batter until it is smooth and 

perfectly free from Imnps; then stir in the clams. Put plenty of lard or beef fat 

into a thick-bottomed frying-pan, let it become boihng hot; put in the batter by 

the spoonful; let them fry gently; when one side is a dehcate brown, turn the 

other. 

CLAM CHOWDER. 
The materials needed are fifty round clams (quahogs), a large bowl of salt 
porl^, cut up fine, the same of onions, finely chopped, and the same (or more, if 
you desire,) of potatoes cut into eighths or sixteenths of original size; wash the 
dams very thoroughly, and put them in a pot with half a pint of water; when 
the shells are open they are done; then take them frdm the shells and chop fine, 
saving all the clam water for the chowder; fry out the pork very gently, and 
when the scraps are a good brown, take them out and put in the chopped 
onions to fry; they should be fried in a frying-pan, and the chowder-kettle be 
made very clean before they are put in it, or the chowder will brmi. ^The 
chief secret in chowder-making is to fry the onions so dehcately that they wiU 
be missing in the chowder.) 



SHELL-FISH. 69 

Add a quart of hot water to the onions; put in the clams, clam- water and 
pork scraps. After it boils, add the potatoes, and when they are cooked, the 
chowder is finished. Just before it is taken up, thicken it with a cup of pow- 
dered crackers, and add a quart of fresh milk. If too rich, add more water. No 
seasoning is needed but good black pepper. 

With the addition of six sliced tomatoes, or half a can of the canned ones, 
this is the best recipe of this kind, and is served in many of our best restaurants. 

— New Bedford Recipe. 

SCALLOPED CLAMS. 

Purchase a dozen large soft clams in the shell and three dozen opened clams. 
Ask the dealer to open the first dozen, care being used not to injure the shells, 
which are to be used in cooking the clams. Clean the shells well, and put two 
soft clams on each half shell; add to each a dash of white pepper, and half a 
teaspoonful of minced celery. Cut a slice of fat bacon into the smallest dice, add 
four of these to each shell, strew over the top a thin layer of cracker-dust; place 
a piece of table butter on top, and bake in the oven untH brown. They are 
dehghtf ul when properly prepared. 

SCALLOPS. 

If bought in the shell boil them and take out the hearts, which is the only 
part used. Dip them in beaten egg, and fry in the same manner as oysters. 
Some prefer them stewed the sarhe as oysters. 

FROGS FRIED. 

Frogs are usually fried, and are considered a great aelicacy. Only the hind- 
legs and quarters are used. Clean them well, season, and fry in egg batter, or 
dipped in beaten egg and fine cracker-crumbs, the same as oysters. 

FROGS STEWED. 

Wash and skin the quarters, parboil them about three minutes, drain them. 
Now, put into a stew-pan two ounces of butter. When it is melted, lay in the 
frogs, and fry about two minutes, stirring them to prevent burning; shake over 
them a tablespoonful of sifted flour and stir it into them; add a sprig of parsley, 
a pinch of powdered summer savory, a bay leaf, three shces of onion, salt and 
pepper, a cup of hot water and one of cream. Boil gently xmtil done; remove 
the legs, strain and mix into the gravy the yolks of two eggs, well beaten to a 
cream; put the legs in a suitable dish, pour over the gravy and serv 



In choosing poultry, select those that are fresh and fat, and the surest way 
to determine whether they are young, is to try the skiu under the leg or wing. 
If it is easily broken, it is young; or, turn the wing backwards, if the joint yields 
readily, it is tender. When poultry is young the skin is thin and tender, the 
legs smooth, the feet moist and limber, and the eyes fuE and bright. The body 
should be thick and the breast fat. Old turkeys have long hairs, and the flesh 
is purplish where it shows under the skin on the legs and back. About March 
they deteriorate in quahty. 

Young ducks and geese are plump, with light, semi-transparent fat, soft 
breast-bone, tender flesh, leg- joints which will break by the weight of the bird, 
fresh-colored and brittle beaks, and wind -pipes that break when pressed between 
the thumb and forefinger. They are best in fall and winter. 

Young pigeons have light red flesh upon the breast, and full, fresh-colored 
legs; when the legs are thin and the breast very dark the birds are old. 

Fine game birds are always heavy for their size; the flesh of the breast is 
firm and plump, and the skin clear; and if a few feathers be plucked from the 
inside of the leg and around the vent, the flesh of freshly-kiUed birds wiU be fat 
and fresh-colored; if it is dark and discolored, the game has been hung a long 
time. The wings of good ducks, geese, pheasants, and woodcock are tender to 
the touch; the tips of the long wing feathers of partridges are pointed in young 
birds and round -in old ones. Quail, snipe and small birds should have full, 
tender breasts. Poultry should never be cooked until six or eight hours after it 
has been Idlled, but it should be picked and drawn as soon as possible. Plunge 
it in a pot of scalding hot water; then pluck off the feathers, taking care not to 
tear the skin; when it is picked clean, roll up a piece of white paper, set fire to 
it, and singe off all the haii-s. The head, neck and feet should be cut off, and 
the ends of the legs skewei'ed to the body, and a string tied tightly around the 
body. When roasting a chicken or small fowl there is danger of the legs brown- 



POULTRY AND GAME. >]\ 

ing or becoming too hard to be eaten. To avoid this, take strips of cloth, dip 
them into a little melted lard, or even just rub them over with lard, and v^'vaA. 
them around the legs. Remove them in time to allow the legs to brown deli- 
cately. 

Fowls, and also various kinds of game, when bought at our city markets, 
require a more thorough cleansing than those sold in country places, where as a 
general thing the meat is wholly dressed. In large cities they lay for some 
length of time with the intestines undrawn, until the flavor of them diffuses itself 
aU through the meat, rendering it distasteful. In this case, it is safe after taking 
out the intestines, to rinse out in several waters, and in next to the last water, 
add a teaspoonful of baking soda; say to a quart of water. This process neutral- 
izes all sourness, and helps to destroy all unpleasant taste iii the meat. 

Poultry may be baked so that its wings and legs are soft and tender, by being 
placed in a deep roasting pan with close cover, thereby retaining the aroma and 
essences by absorption while confined. These pans are a recent innovation, and 
are made double with a small opening in the top for giving vent to the accumu- 
lation of steam and gases when required. Roast meats of any kind can also be 
cooked in the same manner, and it is a great improvement on the old plan. 

ROAST TURKEY. 

Select a young turkey; remove all the feathers carefully, singe it over abum- 
ing newspaper on the top of the stove; then "draw " it nicely, being very care- 
ful not to break any of the internal organs; remove the crop carefully; cut off 
the head, and tie the neck close to the body by drawing the skin over it. Now 
rinse the inside of the turkey out with several waters, and in the next to the 
last, mix a teaspoonful of baking soda; oftentimes the inside of a fowl is very 
sour, especially if it is not freshly killed. Soda, being cleansing, acts as a cor- 
rective, and destroys that unpleasant taste which we frequently experience in the 
dressing when fowls have been killed for some time. Now, after washing, wipe 
the turkey dry, inside and out, with a clean cloth, rub the inside with some salt, 
then stuff the breast and body with " Dressing for Fowl's." Then sew up the 
turkey with a strong thread, tie the legs and vdngs to the body, rub it over with 
a little soft butter, sprinkle over some salt and pepper, dredge with a little flour; 
place it in a dripping pan, pour in a cup of boiling water, and set it in the oven. 
Baste the turkey often, turning it around occasionally so that every part will be 
uniformly baked. When pierced with a fork and the liquid runs out perfectly 
clear, the bird is done- If any part is likely to scorch, pin over it a piece of but- 



72 POULTRY AND GAME. 

tered white [)aper. A fifteen pound turkey requires between three and £om 
hours to bake. Serve with cranberry sauce. 

Qravy for TVrfcey.— When you put the turkey in to roast, put the neck, 
heart, hver and gizzard into a stew-pan with a pint of water; boil until they 
become quite tender; take them out of the water, chop the heart and gizzard, 
mash the Uver and throw away the neck; return the chopped heart, gizzard and 
liver to the Uquor in which they were stewed; set it to one side, and when the 
turkey is done it should be added to the gravy that dripped from the turkey, 
having first skimmed off the fat from the surface of the dripping-pan; set it all 
over the fire, boil three minutes and thicken with flour. It will not need brown 
flour to color the gravy. The garnishes for turkey or chicken are fried oysters, 
thin sUces of ham, shoes of leraon, fried sausages, or force-meat balls, also 
parsley. 

DRESSING OR STUFFING FOR FOWLS, 

For an eight or ten pound turkey, cut the brown crust from shces or pieces 
of stale bread until you have as much as the inside of a pound loaf; put it into a 
suitable dish, and pour tepid water (not warm, for that makes it heavy) over it; 
let it stand one minute, as it soaks very quickly. Now take up a handful at a 
time and squeeze it hard and dry with both hands, placing it, as you go along, in 
another dish; this process makes it very hght. When aU is pressed dry, toss it 
all up hghtly through your fingers; now add pepper, salt, — about a teaspoonful 
— also a teaspoonful of powdered summer savory, the same amount of sage, or 
the green herb minced fine; add half a cup of melted butter, and a beaten egg, 
or not. Work thoroughly aU together, and it is ready for dressing either fowls, 
fish or meats. A httle chopped sausage in turkey dressing is considered by some 
an improvement, when weU incorporated with the other ingredients. For geese 
and ducks the stuffing may be made the same as for turkey with the addition 
of a few sUces of onion chopped fine. 

OYSTER DRESSING OR STUFFING. 

This is made with the same ingredients as the above, with the exception of 
half a can of oysters drained, and slightly chopped and added to the rest. This 
is used mostly with boiled turkey and chicken, and the remainder of the can of 
oysters used to make an oyster sauce to be poured over the tiu-key when served; 
served generally in a separate dish, to be dipped out as a person desires. 

These recipes were obtained from an old coloi-ed cook, who was famous for 
his fine dressings for fowls, fish and meats, and his advice was, always soak 



PO UL TR V AND GAME. 73 

stale bread in cold liquid, either milk or water, when used for stuffing or for pud- 
dings, as they were much lighter. Hot hquid makes them heavy, 

BOILED TURKEY. 

Pi'epare as you would for baking or roasting; fill with an oyster stuffing, 
made as the above. Tie the legs and wings close to the body, place in salted 
boiling water with the breast downward; skim it often and boil about two 
hours, but not till the skin breaks. Serve with oyster or celery sauce. Boil a 
nicely pickled piece of salt pork, and serve at table a thin shoe to each plate. 
Some prefer bacon or ham instead of pork. 

Some roll the turkey in a cloth dipped in flour. If the hquor is to be used 
afterwards for soup, the cloth imparts an unpleasant flavor. The hquor can be 
saved and made into a nice soup for the next day's dinner, by adding the same 
seasonings as for chicken soup. 

TURKEY SCALLOP. 

Pick the meat from the bones of cold turkey, and chop it fine. Put a layer 
of bread crumbs on the bottom of- a buttered dish, moisten them with a httle 
milk, then put in a layer of turkey with some of the fiUing, and cut smaU pieces 
of butter over the top; sprinkle with pepper and salt; then another layer of 
bread-crumbs, and so on imtil the dish is nearly fuU; add a little hot water to 
the gravy left from the turkey and pour over it; then take two eggs, two table- 
spoonfuls of milk, one of melted butter, a httle salt and cracker-crumbs as much 
as will make it thick enough to spread on with a knife; put bits of butter over 
it, and cover with a plate. Bake three-quarters of an hour. Ten minutes before 
serving, remove th^ plate and let it brown. 

TURKEY HASHED. 

Cut the remnants of turkey from a previous dinner into pieces of equal size. 
Boil the bones in a quart of water, until the quart is reduced to a pint; then take 
out the bones, and to the liquor in which they were boiled add turkey gravy, 
if you have any, or white stock, or a small piece of butter with salt and pepper; 
let the liquor thus prepared boil up once; then put in the pieces of turkey, dredge 
in a Uttle flour, give it one boil-up, and serve in a hot dish. 

TURKEY WARMED OVER. 
Pieces of cold turkey or chicken may be warmed up with a little butter in a 
frying-pan; place it on a warm platter, surround it wilh pieces of small thick 
slices of bread or biscuit halved, first dipping them in hot salted water; then 



74 POULTRY AND GAME. 

place the platter in a warm oven with the door open. Have akeady made the 
following gravy to pour over all: 

Into the frying-pan put a large spoonful of butter, one or two cupfuls of 
milk, and any gravy that may be left over. Bring it to a boil; then add suffi- 
cient flour, wet in a Uttle cold milk or water, to make it the consistency of 
cream. Season with salt, pepper and add a little of the dark meat chopped very 
fine. Let the sauce cook a few moments; then pour over the biscuit and fowl. 
This will be foimd a really nice dish. 

BONED TURKEY. 

Clean the fowl as usual. With a sharp and pointed knife, begin at the 
extremity of the wing, and pass the knife down close to the bone, cutting all the 
flesh from the bone, and preserving the skin whole; run the knife down each 
side of the breast bone and up the legs, keeping close to the bone; then split the 
back haK way up, and draw out the bones; fill the places whence the bones 
were taken with a stuffing, restoring the fowl to its natural form, and sew up 
all the incisions made in the skin. Lard with two or three rows of shps of fat 
bacon on the top, basting often with salt and water, and a httle butter. Some 
like a glass of port wine in the gravy. 

This is a difficult dish to attempt by any but skillful hands. Carve across 
in slices, and serve with tomato sauce. 

ROAST GOOSE. 

The goose should noc oe more than eight months old, and the fatter the more 
tender and juicy the meat. Stuff with the following mixture: Three pints of 
bread-crumbs, six ounces of butter, or part butter and part salt pork, one tea- 
spoonful each of sage, black pepper and salt, one chopped onion. Do not stuff 
very fuU, and stitch openings firmly together to keep flavor in and fat out. 
Place in a baking pan with a little water, and baste frequently with salt and 
water (some add vinegar); turn often so that the sides and back may be nicely 
browned. Bake two hours or more; when done take from the pan, pour off the 
fat, and to the brown gravy left, add the chopped giblets which have previously 
been stewed until tender, together with the water they were boiled in; thicken 
with a little flour and butter rubbed together, bring to a boil and serve. Enghsh 
style. 

ROAST CHICKEN. 

Pick and draw them, wash out well in two or three waters, adding a Uttle soda 
to the last but one to sweeten it. if there is doubt as to its being fresh. Dry il 



POULTRY AND GAME. 75 

well with a clean cloth, and fill the crop and body with a stuffing the same as 
'* Dressing for Fowls." Lay it in a dripping-pan; put a pint of hot water and a 
piece of butter in the dripping-pan, add to it a small tablespoonful of salt, and a 
small teaspoonful of pepper; baste frequently, and let it roast quickly, without 
scorching; when nearly done, put a piece of butter the size of a large egg to the 
water in the pan; when it melts, baste with it, dredge a httle flour over, baste 
again, and let it finish; half an hour will roast a full-grown chicken, if the fire 
is right. When done, take it up. 

Having stewed the necks, gizzards, livers and hearts in a very little water, 
strain it and mix it hot v\ith the gravy that has dripped from the fowls, and 
which must be first skimmed. Thicken it with a little browned flour, add to it 
the livers, hearts and gizzards chopped small. Or, put the giblets in the pan 
with the chicken, and let them roast. Send the fowls to the table with the 
gravy in a boat. Cranberry sauce should accompany them, or any tart sauce. 

BOILED CHICKEN. 
Clean, wash and stuff, as for roasting. Baste a floured cloth around eacn, 
and put into a pot with enough boiling water to cover them well. The hot 
water cooks the skin at once and prevents the escape of the juice. The broth 
will not be so rich as if the fowls are put on in cold water, but this is a prooi 
that the meat will be more nutritious and better flavored. Stew very slowly, 
for the first half hour especially. Boil an hour or more, guiding yourself by 
size and toughness. Serve v/ith egg, bread, or oyster sauce. (See Sauces.) 

STEAMED CHICKEN. 

Rub the chicken on the inside wi£h pepper and half a teaspoonful of saltj 
place in a steamer in a kettle that will keep it as near the water as possible, 
cover, and steam an horn- and a half; when done, keep hot while dressing is 
prepared, then cut up, arrange on the platter, and serve with the dressing ovei 
them. 

The dressing is made as follows: Boil one pint of gravy from the kettle with 
out the fat, add cayenne pepper and half a teaspoonful of salt; stir a tablespoonful 
of flour into a quarter of a pint of cream until smooth, and add to the gravy 
Corn starch may be used instead of the flour, and some cooks add nutmeg or 
celery salt. 

FRICASSEE CHICKEN. 

Cut up two young chickens, put them in a stew-pan with just enough cold 
water to cover them. Cover closely, and let them heat very slowly; then stew 



76 POULTRY AND GAME. 

them over an Lour, or until tender. If they are old chickens, they will require 
long, slow boiling, often from three to four hours. When tender, season with 
Bait and pepper, a piece of butter as large as an egg, and a httle celery, if liked. 
Stir up two tablespoonfuls of flour in a httle water or milk, and add to the stew, 
also two well beaten yolks of eggs; let all boil up one minute; arrange the chicken 
on a warm platter, pour some of the gravy over it, and send the rest to the table 
in a boat. The egg should be added to a Uttle of the cooled gravy, before putting 
with the hoi gravy. 

STEWED WHOLE SPRING CHICKEN. 

Dress a full-grown spring chicken the same as for roasting, seasoning it with 
ealt and pepper inside and out; then fill the body with oysters; place it in a tin 
pail with a close-fitting cover. Set the paQ in a pot of fast-boiling water and 
cook until the chicken is tender. Dish up the chicken on a warm dish, then 
pour the gravy into a sauce-pan, put into it a tablespoonful )f butter, half of a 
cupful of cream or rich milk, three hard-boiled eggs chopped fine; some minced 
herbs and a tablespoonful of flour. Let all boil up and then pour it over the 
chicken. Serve hot. 

PICKLED CHICKEN. 

Boil four chickens till tender enough for meat to fall from bones: put meat 
in a stone jar, and pour over it three pints of cold, good cider vinegar and a pint 
and a half of the water in which the chickens were boUed; add spices if preferred, 
and it wiU be ready for use in two days. This is a popular Sunday evening dish; 
it is good for luncheon at any time. 

RISSOLES OF CHICKEN. 

Mince up finely the remains of a cold chicken together with half the quan- 
tity of lean, cold ham. Mix them weU, adding enough white sauce to moisten 
them. Now have light paste rolled out until about a quarter of an inch or a 
little more in thickness Cut the paste into pieces, one inch by two in size, and 
lay a httle of the mixture upon the centres of half of the pieces and cover them 
with the other halves, pressing the edges neatly together and forming them into 
httle rolls. Have your frying-pan ready with i^lenty of boiling hot lard, or other 
frying medium, and fry until they become a golden-brown color. A minute or 
two wiU be sufl&cient for this. Then drain them well and serve immediately on 
a napkin. 



PO UL TR y AND GAME. 7 7 

CHICKEN PATTIES. 

Mince up fine cold chicken, either roasted or boiled. Season it with pepper 
and salt, and a little minced parsley and onion. Moisten it with chicken gravy 
or cream sauce, fill scalloped shells that are lined with pastry with the mixture, 
and sprinkle bread-crumbs over the tops. Put two or three tiny pieces of butter 
over each, and bake brown in a hot oven. 

TO BROIL CHICKEN. 

After dressing and washing the chickens as previously directed, spUt them 
open through the back-bone; frog them by cutting the cords mider the wings 
and laying the wings out flat; cut the sinews under the second joint of the leg 
and turn the leg down; press down the breast-bone without breaking it. 

Season the chicken with salt and pepper, lay it upon the gridiron with the 
inside first to the fire; put the gridiron over a slow fire, and place a tin sheet and 
weight upon the chicken, to keep it flat; let it broil ten minutes, then turn and 
proceed in the same manner with the other side. 

The chicken should be perfectly cooked, but not scorched. A broiled chicken 
brought to the table with its wings and legs burnt, and its breast half cooked, is 
very disagreeable. To avoid this, the chicken must be closely watched while 
broiling, and the fire must be arranged so that the heat shall be equally dis- 
pensed. When the fire is tocThot under any one part of the chicken, put a little 
ashes on the fire imder that part, that the heat may be reduced. 

Dish a broiled chicken on a hot plate, putting a large lump of butter and a 
tablespoouful of hot water upon the plate, and turning the chicken two or 
three times that it may absorb as much of the butter as possible. Garnish with 
parsley. Serve with poached eggs on a separate dish. It takes from thirty to 
forty minutes to broil a chicken well. 

CHICKEN PIE. 

Prepare the chicken as for fricassee. When the chickens are stewed tender, 
seasoned, and the gravy thickened, take it from the fire; take out the largest 
bones, scrape the meat from the neck and back-bone, throw the bones away; 
line the sides of a four or six quart pudding-dish with a rich baking powder or soda 
biscuit-dough, a quarter of an inch thick; put in part of the chicken, a few 
lumps of butter, pepper and salt, if needed, some cold boiled eggs cut in shoes. 
Add the rest of the chicken and season as before; a few new potatoes in their 
season might be added. Pom* over the gravy, being sure to have enough to 



78 POULTRY AND GAME. 

fill the dish, and cover with a crust a quarter of an inch thick, made with a hole 
in the centre the size of a teacup. 

Brush over the top with beaten white of egg, and bake for half to three- 
quarters of an hour. Garnish the top with small bright celery leaves, neatly 
arranged in a circle. 

FRIED CHICKEN. 

Wash and cut up a young chicken, wipe it dry, season with salt and pepper, 
dredge it with flour, or dip each piece in beaten egg and then in aacker-crumbs. 
Have in a frying-pan, one ounce each of butter and sweet lard, made boiling hot. 
Lay in the chicken and fry brown on both sides. Take up, drain them, and set 
aside in a covered dish. Stir into the gravy left, if not too much, a large table- 
spoonful of flour, make it smooth, add a cup of cream or milk, season with salt 
and pepper, boil up and pour over the chicken. Some Uke chopped parsley 
added to the gravy. Serve hot. 

If the chicken is old, put into a stew-pan with a httle water, and simmer 
gently till tender; season with salt and pepper, dip in flour or cracker-crumb and 
^g%, and fry as above. Use the broth the chicken was cooked in to make the 
gravy instead of the cream or milk, or use an equal quantity of both. 

FRIED CHICKEN A LA ITALIENNE. 

Make common batter; mix into it a cupful of chopped tomatoes, one omon 
chopped, some minced parsley, salt and pepper. Cut up young tender chickens, 
dry them well and dip each piece in the batter; then fry brown in plenty of butter, 
in a thick bottom frying-pan. Serve with tomato sauce. 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES. No. i. 

Put a cup of cream or milk in a sauce-pan, set it over the fire, and when it 
boils add a lump of butter as large as an egg, in which has been mixed a table- 
spoonful of flour. Let it boil up thick; remove from the fire, and when cool, mix 
into it a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, a bit of minced onion 
or parsley, one cup of fine bread-crumbs, and a pint of finely-chopped cooked 
chicken, either roasted or boiled. Lastly, beat up two eggs and work in with the 
whole. Flour yom* hands and make into small, round, flat cakes; dip in egg 
and bread-crumbs, and fry hke fish-cakes, in butter and good sweet lard mixed, 
or hke fried cakes in plenty of hot lard. Take them up with a skimmer and lay 
them on brown paper to free them from the gi'ease. Serve hot. 



PO UL TRY AND GAME. 79 

CHICKEN CROQUETTES. No. 2. 

Take any kind of fresh meat or fowl, chop very fine, add an equal quantity 
of smoothly mashed potatoes, mix, and season with butter, salt, black pepper, a 
little prepared mustard, and a little cayenne pepper; make into cakes, dip in egg 
and bread-crumbs and fry a light brown. A nice relish for tea. 

TO FRY CROQUETTES. 

Beat up two eggs in a deep bowl; roll enough crackers until you have a cup- 
ful of crmnbs, or the same of fine stale bread-crumbs; spread the crumbs on a 
large plate or pie-tin. Have over the fire a kettle containing two or three inches 
of boiHng lard. As fast as the croquettes are formed, roll them in the crumbs, 
then dip them in the beaten egg, then again roll them in crumbs; drop them in 
the smoking hot fat and fry them a light golden brown. 

PRESSED CHICKEN. 

Clean and cut up your chickens. Stew in just enough water to cover them. 
When nearly cooked, season them well with salt and pepper. Let them stew 
down until the water is nearly all boiled out, and the meat drops easily from the 
bones. Remove the bones and gristle; chop the meat. rather coarsely, then tiu-n 
it back into the stew-kettle, where the broth was left (after skimming off all fat), 
and let it heat through again. Turn it into a square bread-pan, placing a platter 
on the top, and a heavy weight on the platter. This, if properly prepared, will 
turn out like a mold of jelly and may be sliced in smooth, even slices. The suc- 
cess of this depends upon not having too much water; it will not jelly if too weak, 
or if the water is allowed to boil away entirely while cooking. A good way to 
cook old fowls 

CHICKEN LUNCH FOR TRAVELLING. 

Cut a yoimg chicken down the back; wash and wipe dry; season with salt 
and pepper; put in a dripping-pan and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters 
of an hour. This is much better for travelling lunch than when seasoned with 
butter. 

All kinds of poultry and meat can be cooked quicker by adding to the water 
in which they are boiled a little vinegar or a piece of lemon. By the use of a 
little acid there wiU be a considerable saving of fuel, as well as shortening of 
time. Its action is beneficial on old tough meats, rendering them quite tender 
and easy of digestion. Tainted meats and fowls wiU lose their bad taste and 



80 POULTRY AND GAME. 

odor if cooked in this way, and if not used too freely no taste of it will be 
acquired. 

POTTED CHICKEN. 

Strip the meat from the bones of a cold, roast fowl; to every pound of meat 
allow a quarter of a pound of butter, salt and cayenne pepper to taste; one tea- 
spoonful of pounded mace, half a small nutmeg. Cut the meat into small 
pieces, pound it well with the butter, sprinkle in the spices gi^dually, and keep 
pounding until reduced to a perfectly smooth paste. Pack it into small jars 
and cover with clarified butter, about a quarter of an inch in thickness. Two or 
three slices of ham, minced and pounded with the above, will be an improve- 
ment. Keep in a dry place. A luncheon or breakfast dish. 

Old fowls can be made very tender by putting into them, while boiling, a 
piece of soda as large as a bean. 

SCALLOPED CHICKEN. 

Divide a fowl into joints and boU till the meat leaves the bone readily. Take 
out the bones and chop the meat as small as dice. Thicken the water in which 
the fowl was boiled with flour, and season to taste with butter and salt. Fill a 
deep dish with alternate layers of bread-crumbs and chicken and shces of cooked 
potatoes, having crumbs on top. Pour the gravy over the top, and add a few 
bits of butter and bake till m'cely browned. There should be gravy enough to 
moisten the dish. Serve with a garnish of parsley. Tiny new potatoes are nice 
in place of sliced ones, when in season. 

BREADED CHICKEN. 

Prepare young chickens as for fricassee by cutting them into pieces. Dip 
each piece in beaten egg, then in grated bread-crumbs or rolled cracker; season 
them with pepper and salt, and a little minced parsley. Place them in a baking- 
pan, and put on the top of each piece a lump of butter, add half of a cupful of 
hot water; bake slowly, basting often. When sufficiently cooked take up on a 
warm platter. Into the pan povu- a cup of cream or rich mUk, a cupful of 
bread-crumbs. Stir it well until cooked then pour it over the chicken. Serve 
while hot. 

BROILED CHICKEN ON TOAST. 

Broil the usual way, and when thoroughly done take it up in a square tin or 
dripping-pan, butter it well, season with pepper and salt, and set it in the oven 
for a few minutes. Lay slices of moistened buttered toast on a platter; take the 



POULTRY AND GAME. Z\ 

chicken up over it, add to the gravy in the pan part of a cupful of cream, if you 
have it; if not, use miljc. Thicken with a Uttle flour and pour over the chicken. 
This is considered most excellent. 

CURRY CHICKEN. 

Cut up a chicken weighing from a pound and a half to two pounds, as for 
fricassee, wash it well, and put it into a stew-pan with sufficient water to cover it; 
boU it closely covered, until tender; add a large teaspoonf ul of salt, and cook a few 
minutes longer; then remove from the fire, take out the chicken, pour the liquor 
into a bowl, and)set it one side. Now cut up into the stew-pan two small onions, 
and fry them with a piece of butter p^s large as an egg; as soon as the onions are 
brown, skim thfem out and put in the chicken; fry for three or four ininutes; 
next sprinkle over two teaspoonfuls of Curry Powder. Now pour over^the^liquor 
in which the chicken was stewed, stir all well together, and stew for five^inutes 
longer, then stir into this a tablespoonful of sifted flour made thin with a little 
water; lastly, stir in a beaten yolk of egg, and it is done. 

Serve with hot boiled rice laid round on the edge of a platter, and the chicken 
ciury in the centre. 

This makes a' handsome side dish, and a fine relish accompanying a full 
dinner of roast beef or any roast. 

All first-class grocers and druggists keep this "India Curry Powder," put 
up in bottles."^ Beef, veal,' mutton, duck, pigeons, partridges, rabbits or fresh 
fish may be substituted for the chicken, if preferred, and sent to the table with 
or without a dish of rice. 

To Boil Rice for Curry. — Pick over the rice, a cupful. Wash it thoroughly, 
in two or three cold waters;" then leave it about twenty minutes in cold water.' 
Put into a stew-pan two quarts of water with a teaspoonful of salt in it, and 
when it boils, sprinkle in the rice. Boil it briskly for twenty minutes, keeping 
the pan covered. Take it from the fire, and drain off the water. Afterwards 
set the sauce-pan on the back of the stove, with the Ud off, to allow the rice to 
dry and the grains to separate. 

Rice, if properly boiled, should be soft and white, and every grain stand 
alone. Serve it hot in a separate dish Or served as above, laid around the chicken 
curry. 

CHICKEN POT-PIE. No. i. 

Cut and joint a large chicken, cover with cold water, and let it boil gently 
until tender. Season with salt and pepper, and thicken the gravy with two. 



82 POULTRY AND GAME. 

tablespoonfuls of flour, mixed smooth with a piece of butter the size of an egg. 
Have ready nice light bread-dough; cut with the top of a wineglass about half 
an inch thick; let them stand half an hour and rise, then drop these into the 
boiling gravy. Put the cover on the pot closely, wrap a cloth around it, in order 
that no steam shall escape; and by no means allow the pot to cease boiling. Boil 
three-quarters of an hour. 

CHICKEN POT-PIE. No. 2. 

This style of pot-pie was made more in our grandmother's day than now, as 
most cooks consider that cooking crust so long destroys its spongey lightness, and 
renders it too hard and dry. 

Take a pair of fine fowls; cut them up, wash the pieces, and season with 
pepper only. Make a light biscuit dough, and plenty of it, as it is always much 
liked by the eaters of pot-pie. Roll out the dough not very thin, and cut most 
of it into long squares. Butter the sides of a pot, and line them with dough 
nearly to the top. Lay shces of cold ham at the bottom of the pot, and then the 
pieces of fowl, interspersed all through with squares of dough and potatoes, 
pared and quartered. Pour in a quart of water. Cover the whole with a lid of 
dough, having a slit in the centre, through which the gravy will bubble up. 
Boil it steadily for two hours. Half an hour before you take it up, put in 
through the hole in the centre of the crust seme bits of butter rolled in floiu", to 
thicken the gravy. When done, put the pie on a large dish, and pour the gravy 
over it. 

You may intersperse it aU through with cold ham. 

A pot- pie may be made of ducks, rabbits, squirrels, or venison. Also of berf- 
steak. A beef- steak, or some pork-steaks (the lean only), greatly improve a 
chicken pot-pie. If you use no ham, season with salt. 

CHICKEN STEWED, WITH BISCUIT. 

Take chickens, and make a fricassee; just before you are ready to dish it up, 
have ready two baking-tins of rich soda or baking-powder biscuits; take them 
from the oven hot, split them apart by breaking them with your hands, lay them 
on a large meat platter, covering it, then pour the hot chicken stew over all. 
Send to the table hot. This is a much better way than boiling this kind of 
biscuit in the stew, as you are more sure of its being always light. 

CHICKEN DRESSED AS TERRAPIN. 
Select young chickens, clean and cut them into pieces; put them into a stew- 
pan with just enough water to cook them. When tender stir into it half of a 



PO ULTRY A ND GAME. 83 

cup of butter and one beaten egg. Season it with salt and pepper, a teaspoonf ul 
of powdered thyme; add two hard-boiled eggs coarsely minced and a small glass 
of wine. Boil up once and serve with jelly 

CHICKEN ROLY-POLY. 

One quart of flour, two teaspoonf uls of cream tartar mixed with the flour, 
one teaspoonf ul of soda dissolved in a teacupful of milk; a teaspoonf ul of salt; 
do not use shortening of any kind, but roll out the mixture half an inch thick, 
and on it lay minced chicken, veal or mutton. The meat must be seasoned with 
pepper and salt, and be free from gristle. Eoll the crust over and over, and put 
it on a buttered plate and place in a steamer for half an bom*. Serve for break- 
fast or lunch, giving a slice to each person with gravy served with it. 

CHICKEN TURNOVERS. 

Chop cold roast chicken very fine. Put it into a sauce-pan, place it over the 
fire, moisten it with a little water and gravy, or a piece of butter. Season with 
salt and pepper; add a small tablespoonful of sifted flour, dissolved in a little 
water; heat aU through, and remove from the fire to become cool. When cooled 
roll out some plain pie-crust quite thin, cut out in roimds as large as a saucer; 
wet the edge with cold water, and put a large spoonful of the minced meat on 
one-half of the round; fold the other half over, and pinch the edges well together, 
then fiy them in hot drippings or fat, a nice brown. They may also be cooked 
in a moderate oven. 

CHICKEN PUDDING. 

Cut up two young chickens into good- sized pieces; put them in a sauce-pan 
with just enough water to cover them well. When boiled quite tender, season 
with salt and pepper; let them simmer ten or fifteen minutes longer; then take 
the chicken from the hroth and remove all the large bones. Place the meat in 
a well-buttered pudding-dish, season again, if necessary, adding a few bits of 
butter. Pour over this the following batter: 

Eight eggs beaten light and mixed with one quart of milk, three tablespoon- 
fuls of melted butter, a teaspoonf ul of salt, and two large teaspoonf uls of baking 
powder, added to enough sifted flour to make a batter like griddle -cakes. 

Bake one hour in a moderate, oven. 

Make a gravy of the broth that remained from the cooking of the chicken, 
adding a tablespoonful of flour, stirred into a third of a cup of melted butter; let 
it boil up, putting in more water, if necessary. Serve hot in a gravy boat, with 
the pudding. 



84 POULTRY AND GAME. 

CHICKEN AND MACCARONI. 

Boil a chicken until very tender, take out all the bones, and pick up the meat 
quite fine. Boil half a pound of maccaroni until tendei", first breaking it up to 
pieces an inch long. Butter a deep pudding-dish, put on the bottom a layer of 
the cooked maccaroni, then a layer of the minced chicken, bits of butter, pepper 
and salt, then some of the chicken hquor, over this put another layer of macca- 
roni, and so on, until the dish is filled. Pour a cup of cream over the whole, 
and bake half an hour. Serve on a platter. 

ROAST DUCK. (Tame.) 

Pick, draw, clean thoroughly, and wipe dry. Cut the neck close to the back, 
beat the breast- bone flat with a rolling-pin, tie the wings and legs securely, and 
stuff with the following: 

Three pints bread-crumbs, six ounces butter, or part butter and salt pork, 
two chopped onions and one teaspoonful each of sage, black pepper and salt. 
Do not stuff very full, and sew up the openings firmly to keep the flavor in and 
the fat out. If not fat enough, it should be larded with salt poi-k, or tie a shce 
upon the breast. Place in a baking-pan, with a Uttle water, and baste frequently 
with salt and water — some add onion, and some vinegar; turn often, so that the 
sides and back may all be nicely browned. When nearly done, baste with 
butter and a little flour. These directions will apply to tame geese as well as 
ducks. Young ducks should roast from twenty-five to thirty minutes, and full- 
grown ones for an hour or more, with frequent basting. Some prefer them 
underdone and served very hot; but, as a rule, thorough cooking will prove more 
palatable. Make a gravy out of the neck and gizzards by putting them in a 
quart of cold water, that must be reduced to a pint by boiling. The giblets, 
when done, may be chopped fine and added to the juice. The preferred season- 
ings are one table-spoonful of Madeira or sherry, a blade of mace, one small 
onion, and a httle cayenne pepper; strain through a hair sieve; pour a little over 
the ducks and serve the remainder in a boat. Served with jellies or any tart 
sauce. 

BRAISED DUCKS. 

Prepare a pair of fine young ducks, the same as for roasting, place them in a 
stew-pan together with two or three slices of bacon, a carrot, an onion stuck 
with two cloves, and a little thyme and parsley. Season with pepper, and cover 
the whole with a broth, adding to the broth a gill of white wine. Place the pan 



PO ULTRY A ND GAME. 8 5 

over a gentle fire and allow the ducks to simmer mitil done, basting them fre- 
quently. When done remove them from the pan, and place them where they 
will keep hot. A turnip should then be cut up and fried in some butter. When 
nicely browned, drain the pieces and cook them until tender in the liquor in 
which the ducks were braised. Now strain and thicken the gravy, and after 
dishing up the ducks, pour it over them, garmshing with the pieces of turnip. 

— Palmer House, Cliicago, 

STEWED DUCK. 

Prepare them by cutting them up the same as chicken for fricassee. Lay 
two or three very thin shces of salt pork upon the bottom of a stew-pan; lay the 
pieces of duck upon the pork. Let them stew slowly for an hour, closely cov- 
ered. Then season with salt and pepper, half a teaspoonful of powdered sage, 
or some green sage minced fine; one chopped onion. Stew another half hour 
until the duck is tender. Stir up a large tablespoonf ul of brown flour in a little 
water and add it to the stew. Let it boil up, and serve all together in one dish. 

accompanied with green peas. 

-Palmer House, Chicago 

DUCK PIE. 

Cut all the meat from cold roast ducks; put the bones and stuffing into cold 
water; cover them and let boil; put the meat into a deep dish; pour on enough of 
the stock made from the bones to moisten; cover with pastry sUt in the centre 
with a knife, and bake a light brown. 

WARMED UP DUCK. 

A nice dish for breakfast, and very reUshing, can Be made from the remains 
of a roast of duck. Cut the meat from the bones, pick out all the little tidbits 
in the recesses, lay them in a frying-pan, and cover with water and the cold 
gravy left from the roast; add a piece of butter; let all boil up once and if not 
quite thick enough, stir in a little dissolved flour. Serve hot. 

ROAST WILD DUCK. 

Wild duck should not be dressed too soon after being killed. If the weather 
is cold it will be better for being kept several days. Bake in a hot oven, letting 
it remain for five or ten minutes without basting to keep in the gravy, then 
baste frequently with butter and water. If over-done it loses flavor, 30 to 40 
minutes in the right kind of an oven being suffrcient; Serve on a very hot dish, 
and send to table as hot as possible with a cut lemon and the following sauce: 



86 POULTRY AND GAME. 

Put in a tiny sauce-pan a tablespoonful each of Worcestershire sauce and 

mushroom catsup, a little salt and cayenne pepper, and the juice of half a 

lemon. Mix well, make it hot, remove from the fire, and stir in a teaspoonfui 

of made mustard. Pour into a hot gravy boat. 

—California Style, Lick House. 

WILD DUCKS. 
Most wild ducks are apt to have the flavor of fish, and when in the hands of 
inexperienced cooks are sometimes unpalatable on this account. Before roasting 
them, parboil them with a small peeled caiTot put within each duck. This 
absorbs the unpleasant taste. An onion wiU have the same effect, but unless you 
use onions in the stuffing, the carrot is preferable. Eoast the same as tame 
duck. Or put into the duck a whole onion peeled, plenty of salt and pepper and 
a glass of claret, bak(* in a hot oven 20 minutes. Serve hot with the gravy it 
yields in cooking and a dish of currant jelly. 

CANVAS-BACK DUCK. 

The epicm-ean taste declares that tliis special kind of bird requires no spices 
or flavors to make it perfect, as the meat partakes of the flavor of the food 
that the bird feeds upon, being mostly wild celery; and the delicious flavor is 
best preserved when roasted quickly with a hot fire. After dressing the duck 
in the usual way, by plucking, singing, drawing, wipe it with a wet towel, truss 
the head iinder the wing; place it in a dripping-pan, put it in the oven, basting 
often, and roast it half an hour. It is generally preferred a little imderdone. 
Place it when done on a hot dish, season well with salt and pepper, pour over it 
the gravy it has yielded in baking and serve it immediately while hot. 

— Delmonico. 

ROAST PIGEONS. 
Pigeons lose their flavor by being kept more than a day after they are killed. 
They may be prepared and roasted or broiled the same as chickens; they will 
requue from twenty to thirty minutes cooking. Make a gravy of the giblets or 
not, season it with pepper and salt, and add a little flour and butter. 

STEWED PIGEONS. 

Clean and stuff with onion dressing, thyme, etc., — do not sew up; take five 
or more slices of corned pork, let it fiy a while in a pot so that the fat comes out 
and it begins to brown a httle; then lay the pigeons all around in the fat, leaving 
the pork still in; add hot water enough to partially cover them; cover tightly 
and boil an hour or so until tender; then turn off some of the liquid, and keep 



rO UL TR Y A ND GAME 8 7 

turning them so they will brown nicely; then heat and add the Uquor poured 
off; add extra thyme, pepper, and keep turning until the pigeons and gravy are 
nicely browned. Thicken with a little flour, and serve with the gravy poured 
over them; garnish with parsley. 

PIGEON PIE. 

Take half a dozen pigeons; stuff each one with a dressing the same as for 
tiu'key; loosen the joints with a knife, but do not separate them. Put them in 
a stew-pan with water enough to cover them, let them cook until nearly tender, 
then season them with salt and pepper and butter. Thicken the gravy with 
flour, remove and cool. Butter a pudding -dish, line the sides with a rich crust. 
Have ready some hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Put in a layer of egg and birds 
and gravy until the dish is full. Cover with a crust and bake. 

BROILED PIGEONS OR SQUABS. 

Split them down the back and broil the same as chicken; seasoning well with 
salt, pepper and plenty of butter. Broil slices of salt pork, very thin; place a 
sUce over each bird and serve. 

SQUAB POT-PIE. 

Cut into dice three ounces of salt pork; divide six wild squabs into pieces, at 
the joints; remove the skin. Cut up four potatoes into small squares, and pre- 
pare a dozen small dough balls. 

Put into a yeUow, deep baking-dish the pork, potatoes and squabs, and then 
the balls of dough; season with salt, white pepper, a dash of mace or nutmeg, 
add hot water enough to cover the ingredients, cover with a " short " pie-crust 

and bake in a moderate oven three-quarters of an hour. 

— Palmer House, Chicago. 

WOODCOCK, ROASTED. 

Skin the head and neck of the biz'd, pluck the feathers, and truss it by bring- 
ing the beak of the bird under the wing, and fastening the pinion to the thigh; 
twist the legs at the knuckles and press the feet upon the thigh. Put a piece of 
bread xmder each bird to catch the drippings, baste with butter, dredge with 
flour, and roast fifteen or twenty minutes with a sharp fire. When done, cut 
the bread in diamond shape, each piece large enough to stand one bird upon, 
place them aslant on your dish, and serve with gravy enough to moisten the 
bread; serve some ID the dish and some in the tureen; garnish with shces of 
lemon. Roast from twenty to twenty-five minutes. 



88 POULTRY AND GAME, 

SNIPE. 

Snipe are similar to woodcock, and may be served in the same manner; they 
will require less time to roast. 

REED BIRDS. 

Pick and draw them very carefully, salt and dredge with flour, and roast 
with a quick fire ten or fifteen minutes. Serve on toast with butter and pepper. 
You can put in each one an oyster dipped in butter and then in bread-crumbs 
before roasting. They are also very nice broiled. 

ROAST QUAIL. 

Rinse well and steam over boihng water mitil tender, then dredge with flour, 
and smother in butter; season with salt and pepper and roast inside the stove; 
thicken the gravy; serve with green grape jelly, and garnish with parsley. 

TO ROAST PARTRIDGES. PHEASANTS, QUAILS OR GROUSE. 

Carefully cut out all the shot, wash thorouglily but quickly, using soda in the 
water; rinse again, and dry with a clean cloth. Stuff them and sew them up. 
Skewer the legs and wings to the body, larder the breast with very thin shoes of 
fat salt pork, place them in the oven, and baste with butter and water before 
taking up, having seasoned them with salt and pepper; or you can leave out the 
pork and use only butter, or cook them without stuffing. Make a gravy of the 
drippings thickened with browned flour. Boil up and serve in a boat. 

These are all very fine broiled, first sphtting down the back, placing on the 
gridiron the inside down, cover with a baking tin, and broil slowly at first. 
Serve with cream grav3^ 

GAME PIE. 
Clean well, inside and out, a dozen small birds, quail, snipe, woodcock, etc., 
and split them in half: put them in a sauce-pan with about two quarts of water; 
when it boils, skim off all scum that rises; then add salt and pepper, a bunch of 
minced parsley, one onion chopped fine, and three whole cloves. Cut up half a 
pound of salt pork into dice, and let all boil until tenier, using care that there 
be enough water to cover the birds. Tliicken this with two tablespoonfuls of 
browned flour and let it boil up. Stir in a piece of butter as large as an egg; 
remove from the hre and let it cool. Have ready a pint of potatoes cut as small 
as dice, and a rich crust made. Line the sides of a buttered pudding-dish with 
the crust; lay in the birds, then some of the potatoes, then birds and so on, until 
the dish is full. Pour over the gravy, put on the top crust, with a sUt cut in the 



POULTRY AND GAME. »9 

centre; and bake. The top can be ornamented with pastry leaves in a wreath 
about the edge, with any fancy design placed in the centre across the sht. 

— Rockaway Beach. 
SNOW BIRDS. 
One dozen thoroughly cleaned birds; stuff each with an oyster, put them into 
a yellow dish, and add two ounces of boiled salt pork and three raw potatoes cut 
into shces; add a pint of oyster liquor, an ounce of butter; salt and pepper; cover 
the dish with a ciiist and bake in a moderate oven. 

SQUIRREL. 

They are cooked similar to rabbits, are excellent when broiled or made into 
a stew, and, in fact, are very good in all the different styles of cooking similar to 
rabbit. 

There are many species common to this country; among them the black, red, 
gray and fox. Gophers and chipmunks may also be classed as another but 
smaller variety 

ROAST HARE OR RABBIT. 

A very close relationship exists between the hare and the rabbit, the chief 
difference being in the smaller size and shorter legs and ears of the latter. The 
manner of dressing and preparing each for the table is, therefore, pretty nearly 
the same. To prepare them for roasting, first skin, wash well in cold water and 
rinse thoroughly in lukewarm water. If a little musty from being emptied 
before they were hurig up, and afterward neglected, mb the insides with vinegar 
and afterward remove all taint of the acid by a thorough washing in lukewarm 
water. After being well wiped with a soft cloth put in a dressing as usual, sew 
the animal up, truss it, and roast for a half or three-quarters of an hour, until 
well-browned, basting it constantly with butter and dredging with flour, just 
before taking up. 

To make a gravy, after the rabbits are roasted, pour nearly all the fat out of 
the pan, but do not pour the bottom or brown part of the drippings; put the pan 
over the fire, stir into it a heaping tablespoonf ul of flour, and stir imtil the flour 
browns. Then stir in a pint of boiling water. Season the gravy with salt and 
pepper; let it boil for a moment. Send hot to the table in a tureen with the hot 
rabbits. Serve with currant jelly. 

FRICASSEE RABBIT. 
Clean two young rabbits, cut into joints, and soak in salt and water half all 
hour. Put into a sauce-pan with a pint of cold water, a bunch of sweet herbs. 



90 POULTRY A ND CA ME. 

an oniou finely nunced, a pinch of mace, half a nutmeg, a pinch of pepper and 
half a pound of salt pork cut in small thin slices. Cover and stew until tender. 
Take out the rabbits and set in a dish where they will keep warm. Add to the 
gravy a cup of cream (or milk), two well-beaten eggs, stirred in a little at a time, 
a tablespoonful of butter, and a thickening made of a tablespoonful of flour 
and a little milk. Boil up once; remove the sauce-pan from the fire, squeeze in 
the juice of a lemon, stirring all the while, and pour over the rabbits. Do not 
cook the head or neck. 

FRIED RABBIT. 

After the rabbit has been thoroughly cleaned and waslied, put it into boiling 
water, and let it boil ten minutes; drain it, and when cold, cut it into joints, dip 
into beaten egg, and then in fine bread-crumbs; season with salt and pepper. 
When all are ready, fry them in butter and sweet lard, mixed over a moderate 
fire until brown, on both sides. Take them out, thicken the gravy with a spoon- 
ful of flour, turn in a cup of milk or cream; let all boil up, and turn over the 
rabbits. Servo hot with onion sauce. (See Sauces.) Garnish with sliced lemon. 

RABBIT PIE. 

This piov can be made the same as "Game Pie," exceptiiig you scatter 
through it four hard-boiled eggs cut in slices. Cover with pufif paste, cut a slit 
in the middle, and bake one hour, laying paper over the top should it brown 
too fast. 

BROILED RABBITS. 

After skinning and cleaning the rabbits, wipe them diy, split them down the 
back lengthwise, pound them flat, then wrap them in letter paper well buttered, 
place them on a buttered gridiron, and broil over a clear, brisk fii-e, turning them 
often. When sufficiently cooked, remove the papers, lay them on a very hot 
platter, season with salt, pepper, and plenty of butter, turning them over and 
over to soak up the butter. Cover and keep hot in a warming oven until served. 

SALMI OF GAME. 

This is a nice mode of serving the rem&ins of roasted game, but when a 
superlative salmi is desired, the birds must be scarcely more than half roasted 
for it. In either case, carve them very neatly, and strip every particle of skin 
and fat from the legs, wings and breasts; bruise the bodies well, and put them 
with the skin and other trimmings into a very clean stew-pan. If for a simple 
ana inexpensive dinner, merely add to them two sliced onions, a bay-leaf, a small 



POULTRY AND GAME, 9 1 

blade of mace and a few peppercorns; then pour in a pint or more of good veal 
gravy, or strong broth, and boil it briskly until reduced nearly half; strain the 
gravy, pressing the bones well to obtain all the flavor; skim off the fat, add a 
little cayenne and lemon juice, heat the game very gradually in it, but do not 
on any account allow it to boil; place pieces of fried bread round a dish, arrange 
the birds in good form in the centre, give the sauce a boil, and pour it on them. 

ROAST HAUNCH OF VENISON. 

To prepare a haunch of venison for roasting, wash it shghtly in tepid water, 

and dry it thoroughly by rubbing it with a clean, soft cloth. Lay over the fat 

side a large sheet of thickly buttered paper, and next a paste of flom* and water 

about three-quarters of an inch thick; cover this again Avith two'or three sheets 

of stout paper, secure the whole well with twine, and put down to roast, with a 

httle water, in the dripping-pan. Let the fire be clear and strong; baste the 

paper immediately with butter or clarified drippings, and roast Nthe joint from 

three to four hours, according to its weight and quality. Doe venison will 

require half an hour less time than buck venison. About twenty minutes before 

the joint is done remove the paste and paper, baste the meat in every part with 

butter, and dredge it very lightly ■with flour; let it take a pale brown color, and 

serve hot with unflavored gravy made with a thickening, in a tureen and good 

currant jelly. Venison is much better when the deer has been killed in the 

autumn, when wild berries are plentiful, and it has had abundant opportunities 

to fatten upon this and other fresh food. 

— Windsor Hold, Montreal. 

BROILED VENISON STEAK. 

Venison steaks should be broiled over a cloar fii-e turning often. It requires 
more cooking than beef. When sufficiently done, season with salt and pepper, 
pour over two tablespoonfuls of currant jelly, melted with a piece of butter. 
Serve hot on hot plates. 

Dehcious steaks, corresponding to the shape of mutton chops, are cut from 
the loin. 

BAKED SADDLE OF VENISON. 

Wash the saddle carefully; see that no hairs are left dried on to the outside. 
Use a saddle of venison of about ten pounds. Cut some salt pork in strips about 
two inches long, and an eighth of an inch thick, with which lard the saddle 
with two rows on each side. In a large dripping-pan cut two carrots^ one onion, 
and some salt pork in thin slices; add two bay leaves, two cloves, four kernels 



92 POULTRY AND GAME. 

of allspice, half a lemon, sliced, and season with salt and pepper; place the saddle 
ot venison in the pan, with a quart of good stock, boiling hot, and a small piece 
of butter, and let it boil about fifteen minutes on top of the stove; then put it in 
a hot oven and bake, basting well every five minutes, until it is medium rare, so 
that the blood runs when cut; serve with jelly or a wine sauce. If the venison 
is desired well done, cook much longer, and use a cream sauce with it, or stir 
cream into the venison gravy, (For cream sauce see Sauces.) 

Venison should never be roasted imless very fat. The shoulder is a roasting 
piece, and may be done without the paper or paste. 

In ordering the saddle request the butcher to cut the ribs off pretty close, as 
the only part that is of much accormt is the tenderloin and thick meat that lies 
along the backbone up to the neck. The ribs which extend from this have very 
httle meat on them, but are always sold with the saddle. When neatly cut off 
they leave the saddle in a better shape, and the ribs can be put into yoiu* stock 

pot to boil for soup. 

— Windsor Hotel, MorUreaU 

VENISON PIE OR PASTRY. 

The neck, breast and shoulder are the parts used for a venison pie or pastry. 
Cut the meat into pieces (fat and lean together) and put the bones and trim- 
mings into the stew-pan with pepper and salt, and water or veal broth enough 
to cover it. Simmer it till you have drawn out a good gravy. Then strain it. 

In the meantime make a good rich paste, and roll it rather thick. Cover the 
bottom and sides of a deep dish with one sheet of it, and put in your meat, 
having seasoned it with pepper, salt, nutmeg and mace. Voui in the gravy 
which you have prepared from the trimmings, and a glass of port wine. Lay 
on the top some bits of butter rolled in flour. Cover the pie with a thick hd ol 
paste and ornament it handsomely with leaves and flowers formed with a tin 
cutter. Bake two or more hours according to the size. Just before it is done, 
pull it forward in the oven, and brush it over with beaten egg; push it back and 

let it slightly brown. 

— Windsor Hotel, Montreal, 

VENISON HASHED. 

Cut the meat in nice small sUces, and put the trimmings and bones into a 
sauce-pan with barely water enough to cover them. Let them stew for an hoiu'. 
Then strain the hquid into a stew-pan; add to it some bits of butter, rolled in 
flour, and whatever gravy was left of the venison the day before. Stir in some 
currant jelly, and give it a boil up. Then put in the meat, and keep it over the 



POULTRY AND GAME. 93 

fire just long enough to warm it through; but do not allow it to boil, as it has 
been once cooked already. 

FRIED VENISON STEAK. 

Cut a breast of venison into steaks; make a quarter of a pound of butter hot 
in a pan; rub the steaks over with a mixture of a little salt and pepper; dip them 
in wheat flour, or rolled crackers, and fry a rich brown; when both sides are 
done, take them'up on a dish, and put a tin cover over; dredge a heaping tea- 
spoonful of flour into the butter in the pan, stir it with a spoon until it is brown, ' 
without burning; put to it a small teacupful of boiling water, with a tablespoon- 
ful of currant jelly dissolved into it; stir it for a few minutes, then strain it over 
the meat, and serve. A glass of wine, with a tablespoonful of white sugar dis- 
solved in it, may be used for the gravy, instead of the jelly and water. Venison 
may be boiled, and served with boiled vegetables, pickled beets, etc. and sauce. 







i^ 



In the selection of meat it is most essential that we understand how to choose 
it; in beef it should be a smooth, fine grain, of a clear bright red color, the fat 
white, and will feel tender when pinched with the fingers. Will also have 
abundant kidney fat or suet. The most choice pieces for roast are the sirloin, 
fore and middle ribs. 

Veal, to be good, should have the flesh firm and dry, fine grained and of a 
delicate pinkish color, and plenty of kidney fat; the joints stiff. 

Mutton is good when the flesh is a bright red, firm and juicy and a close 
grain, -the fat firm and white. 

Pork: if young, the lean will break on being pinched smooth when nipped 
with the fingers, also the skin will break and dent; if the rind is rough and hard 
it is old. 

In roasting meat, allow from fifteen to twenty minutes to the pound, which 
will vary according to the thickness of the roast. A great deal of the success in 
roasting depends on the heat and goodness of the fke; if put into a cool oven it 
loses its juices, and the result is a tough, tasteless roast; whereas, if the oven is 
of the proper heat, it immediately sears up the pores of the meat and the jmces 
are retained. 

The oven should be the hottest when the meat is put into it, in order to 
quickly crisp the surface and close the pores of the meat, thereby confining its 
natural juices. If the oven is too hot to hold the hand in for only a moment, 
then the oven is right to receive the meat. The roast should first be washed in 
pure. water, then wiped dry with a clean dry cloth, placed in a baking-pan, 
without any seasoning; some pieces of suet or cold drippings laid under it, but 
no water should be put into the pan, for this would have a tendency to soften the 
outside of the meat. The water can never get so hot as the hot fat upon the 
surface of the meat, and the generating of the steam prevents its crispness, so 
desirable in a roast. 



MEATS. 95 

It should be frequently basted with ita own drippings which flow from the meat 
when partly cooked and well seasoned. Lamb, veal and pork should be cooked 
rather slower than beef, with a more moderate fire, covering the fat with a piece 
of paper, and thoroughly cooked till the flesh parts from the bone; and nicely 
browned, without being burned. An onion shced and put on top of a roast 
while cooking, especially roast of pork, gives a nice flavor. Remove the onion 
before serving. 

Larding meats is drawing ribbons of fat pork through the upper surface of 
the meat, leaving both ends protruding. This is accomplished by the use of a 
larding needle, which may be procured at house- furnishing stores. 

Boiling or stewing meat, if fresh, should be put into boiling water, closely 
covered, and boiled slowly, allowing twenty minutes to each pound, and when 
partly cooked, or when it begins to get tender, salted,adding spices and vegetables. 

Salt meats should be covered with cold water, and require thirty minutes very 
slow boiling, from the time the water boils, for each pound; if it is very salt, 
pour off the first water, and put it in another of boiling water, or it may be 
soaked one night in cold water. After meat commences to boil, the pot should 
never stop simmering and always be replenished from the boiling tea-kettle. 

Frying may be done in two ways: one method, which is most generally used, 
is by putting one ounce or more (as the case requires) of beef drippings, lard or 
butter, into a frying-pan, and when at the boiling point, laying in the meat, 
cooking both sides a nice brown. The other method is to completely immerse 
the article to be cooked in sufficient hot lard to cover it, similar to frying 
doughnuts. 

Broiled meats should be placed over clear, red coals, free from smoke, giving 
out a good heat, but not too brisk or the meat vdll be hardened and scorched; 
but if the fire is dead, the gravy will escape, and drop upon the coals, creating a 
blaze, which will blacken and smoke the meat. Steaks and chops should be 
tiuned often, in order that every part should be evenly done— never sticking a 
fork into the lean part, as that lets the juices escape; it should be put into the 
outer skin or fat. "When the meat is sufficiently broiled, it should be laid on ai. hot 
dish and seasoned. The best pieces for steak are the porter-house, sirloin, and 
rump. 

THAWING FROZEN MEAT, Etc. 

If meat, poultry, fish, vegetables, or any other article of food, when found 
frozen, is thawed by putting it into warm water or placing it before the fire, it 
, vsill most certainly spoil by that process, and be rendered unfit to eat. The only 



96 MEATS. 

way to thaw these things is by immei'siug theru in cold water. This should be 
done as soon as they are brought in from market, that they may have time to 
be well thawed before they are cooked. M meat that has been fiozeu is to be 
boiled, put it on in cold water. If to be roasted, begin by setting it at a distance 
from the fire; for if it should not chance to be thoroughly thawed all through to 
the centre, placing it at first too near the fire wiU cause it to spoil. K it is 
expedient to thaw the meat or poultry the night before cooking, lay it in cold 
water early in the evening, and change the water at bed-time. If found crusted 
with ice in the morning, remove the ice, and put the meat in fresh cold water, 
letting it lie in it tiU wanted for cooking. 

Potatoes are injured by bemg frozen. Other vegetables are not the worse for 
it, provided they are always thawed in cold water. 

TO KEEP MEAT FROM FLIES. 

Put in sacks, with enough straw around it so the flies cannot reach through. 

Three-fourths of a yard of yard-wide muslin is the right size for the sack. Put 

a little straw in the bottom, then put in the ham and lay straw in all around it; 

tie it tightly, and hang it in a cool, dry place. Be sure the straw is aU around the 

meat, so the flies cannot reach through to deposit the eggs. (The sacking must 

be done early in the season before the fly appears.) Muslin lets the air in and is 

much better than paper- Thin muslin is as good as thick, and will last for years 

if washed whealaid away when emptied. 

— National Stockman, 

ROAST BEEF. 

One very essential point, in roasting beef is to have the oven well heated 
when the beef is first put in; this causes the pores to close up quickly, and pre- 
vents the escape of the juices. 

Take a rib piece or loin roast of seven or eight pounds. Wipe it thoroughly 
all over Avith a clean wet towel. Lay it in a dripping-pan, and baste it well with 
butter or suet fat. Set it in the oven. Baste it frequently with its own drip- 
pings, which will make it brown and tender. When partly done, season with 
salt and pepper, as it hardens any meat to salt it when raw, and di-aws out its 
juices, then dredge with sifted flour to give it a frothy appearance. It wiU take 
a roast of this size about two hours time to be properly done, leaving the inside 
a little rare or red— half an hour less would make the inside quite rai-e. Remove 
the beef to a heated dish, set where it wiU keep hot; then skim the drippings 
from all fat, add a tablespoonful of sifted flour, a httle pepper and a teacupful 
of boiling water. Boil up once and serve hot in a gi-avy boat. * 



MEATS. 97 

Some prefer the clear gravy without the thickening. Serve with mustard of 
grated horse-radish and vinegar. 

YORKSHIRE PUDDING. 

This is a very nice accompaniment to a roast of beef; ohe ingredients are, one 
pint of milk, four eggs, white and yolks beaten separately, one teaspoonful 
of salt, and two teaspoonfuls of baking powder sifted through two cups of 
flour. It should be mixed very smooth, about the consistency of cream. Eegu- 
late your time when you put in your roast, so that it wiU be done half an hour 
or forty minutes before dishing up. Take it from the oven, set it where it will 
keep hot. In the meantime have this pudding prepared. Take two common 
biscuit tins, dip some of the drippings from the dripping-pan into these tins, pour 
half of the pudding into each, set them into the hot oven, and keep them in until 
the dinner is dished up; take these puddings out at the last moment and send to 
the table hot. This I consider much better than the old way of baking the 
pudding under the meat 

BEEFSTEAK. No. i. 

The first consideration in broiling is to have a clear, glowing bed of coals. 
The steak shoiild be about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, and should be 
pounded only in extreme cases, i.e., when it is cut too thick and is " stringy." Lay 
it on a. buttered gridiron, turning it often, as it begins to drip, attempting notliing 
else while cooking it. Have everything else ready for the table; the potatoes 
and vegetables dished and in the warming closet. Do not season it until it is 
done, which will be in about ten to twelve minutes. Remove it 'to a warm 
platter, pepper and salt it on both sides and spread a liberal lump of butter over 
it.5^' Serve at once while hot.' No definite rule can be given as to the time of 
cooking steak, individual tastes differ so widely in regard to it, some only hking 
it when well done, others so rare that the blood runs out of it. The best pieces 
for broiling are the porter-house and sirloin, 

BEEFSTEAK, No. 2. 

Take a smooth, thick -bottomed frying-pan, scald it out. with hot water, and 
wipe it dry; set it on the stove or range, and when very hot, rub it over the 
bottom witli a rag dipped in butter; then place your steak or chops in it, turn 
often until cooked through, take up 'On a warm platter, and. season both sides 
with salt, pepper and butter. Serve hot. 

Many prefer this manner of cooking steak rather than broihng or frying in 
a quantity of grease. 



9^ MEATS. 

BEEFSTEAK AND ONIONS. 

Prepare the steak in the usual way. Have ready in a frying pan a dozen 
onions cut in slices and fried brown in a little beef drippings or butter. Dish 
your steak, and lay the onions thickly over the top. Cover and let stand five 
minutes, then send to the table hot. 

BEEFSTEAK AND OYSTERS. 

Broil the steak the usual way. Put one quart of oysters with very little of 

the liquor into a stew-pan upon the fire; when it comes to a boil, take off the 

scum that may rise, stir in three ounces of butter mixed with a tablespoonful 

of sifted flour, let it boil one minute until it thickens, pour it over the steak. 

Serve hot . 

— Palace Hotel, San Francisco 

TO FRY BEEFSTEAKS. 

Beefsteak for frying should be cut much thinner than for broiling. Take 
from the ribs or sirloin and remove the bone. Put some butter or nice beef dripping 
into a frying-pan, and set it over the fire, and when it has boiled and become hot. 
lay in the steaks; when cooked quite enough, season with salt and pepper, turn 
and brovm on both sides. Steaks when fried should be thoroughly done. Have 
ready a hot dish, and when they are done, take out the steaks and lay them on 
it, vdth another dish cover the top to keep them hot. The gravy in the pan can 
be turned over the steaks, first adding a few drops of boiling water, or a gravy 
to be served in a separate dish made by putting a large tablespoonful of flour 
into the hot gravy left in the pan, after taking up the steaks. Star it smooth, 
then pour in a pint of cream or sweet rich milk, salt and pepper, let it boil up 
once until it thickens, pour hot into a gravy dish, and send to the table with the 
steaks. 

POT ROAST, (Old Style.) 

This is an old-fashioned dish, often cooked in our gi-andmothers' time. Take 
a piece of fresh beef weighing about five or six pounds. It must not be too fat. 
Wash it and put it into a pot with barely sufficient water to cover it. Set it 
over a slow fire, and after it has stewed an horu salt and pepper it Then stew 
it slowly until tender, adding a httle onion if liked. Do not replenish the water 
at the last, but let all nearly boil away. When tender all through take the 
meat from the pot, and pour the gravy in a bowl. Put a large lump of butter 
in the bottom of the pot, then dredge the piece of meat with flour, and return it 



ME A TS. gg 

to the pot to brown, turning it often to prevent its burning. Take the gravy 
that you have poured from the meat into the bowl, and skim off all the fat; pour 
this gravy in with the meat and stir in a large spoonful of flour; wet with a httle 
water; let it boil up ten or fifteen minutes and pour into a gravy dish. Serve 
both hot, the meat on a platter. Some are very fond of this way of cooking a 
piece of beef which has been previously placed in spiced pickle for two or three 
days. 

SPICED BEEF. (Excellent.) 

For a round of beef weighing twenty or twenty-four pounds, take one quarter 
of a pound of saltpetre, one quarter of a pound of coarse brown sugar, two 
pounds of salt, one ounce of cloves, one ounce of allspice, and half an ounce of 
mace; pulverize these materials, mix them well together, and with them rub 
the beef thoroughly on every part; let the beef lie for eight or ten days in the 
pickle thus made, turning and rubbing it every day; then tie it around with a 
broad tape, to keep it in shape; make a coarse paste of flour and water, lay a 
little suet finely chopped over and under the beef, inclose the beef entirely in 
the paste, and bake it six hours. When you take the beef from the oven, 
remove the paste, but do not remove, the tape until you are ready to send it to 
the table. If you wish to eat the beef cold, keep it well covered that it may 
retain its moisture. 

BEEF A LA MODE. 

Mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of pepper, one of ginger, one of 
mace, one of cinnamon, and two of cloves. Kub this mixture into ten poimds 
of the upper part of a rotmd of beef. Let this beef stand m this state over night. 
In the morning, make a dressing or stuffing of a pint of fine bread-crumbs, half 
■a pound of fat salt pork cut in dice, a teaspoonful of ground thyme or summer 
savory, two teaspoonfuls sage, half a teaspoonful of pepper, one of nutmeg, a 
httle cloves, an onion minced fine, moisten with a little milk or water. Stuff 
this mijctm-e into the place from whence you took out the bone. With a long 
skewer fasten the two ends of the beef together, so that its form will be circular, 
and bind it aroimd with tape, to prevent the skewers giving away. Make 
incisions in the beef with a sharp knife; fill these incisions very closely with the 
stuffing, and dredge the whole with flour. 

Put it into a dripping-pan and pour over it a pint of hot water; turn a large 
pan over it to keep in the steam, and roast slowly from three to four hours, 
allowing a quarter of an hour to each pound of meat. If the meat should be 



lOO MEATS. 

tough, it may be stewed first in a pot with water enough to cover it, until tender, 
and then put into a dripping-pan and browned in the oven. 

If the meat is to be eaten hot, skim ofif the fat from the gravy, into which, 
after it is taken off the fire, stir in the beaten yolks of two eggs. If onions are 
disUked you may omit them and substitute minced oysters. 

TENDERLOIN OF BEEF. 

To serve tenderloin as directed below, the whole piece must be extracted 
before the hind quarter of the animal is cut out. This must be particularly 
noted, because not commonly practised, the tenderloin being usually left attached 
to the roasting pieces, in order to furnish a tidbit for a few. To dress it whole, 
proceed as follows: Washing the piece well, j^ut it in an oven; add about a pint 
of water, and chop up a good handful of each of the following vegetables as an 
ingredient of the dish, viz., Irish potatoes, carrots, turnips, and a large bunch 
of celery. They must be washed, peeled, and chopped up raw, then added to 
the meat; blended with the juice, they form and flavor the gravy. Let the 
whole slowly simmer, and when nearly done, add a teaspoonful of pounded 
allspice. To give a richness to the gi'avy, put in a tablespoonful of butter. If 
the gravy should look too greasy, skim off some of the melted suet. Boil also a 
lean piece of beef, which, when perfectly done, chop fine, flavoring with a very 
small quantity of onion, besides pepper and salt to the taste Make into small 
balls, wet them on the outside with eggs, roll in grated cracker or fine bread- 
crumbs. Fry these force-meat balls a light brown. When serving the dish, put 
these around the tenderloin, and pour over the whole the rich gravy. This dish 
is a very handsome one, and, altogether, fit for an epicurean palate. A sumptu- 
ous dish. 

STEWED STEAK WITH OYSTERS. 

Two poimds of rump steak, one pint of oysters, one tablespoonful of lemon 
3uice, three of butter, one of flour, salt, pepper, one cupful of water. Wash the 
oysters in the water, and drain into a stew-pan. Put this liquor on to heat. As 
soon as it comes to a boil, skim and set back. Put the butter in a frying-pan, 
and when hot, put in a steak. Cook ten minutes. Take up the steak, and stir 
the flour into the butter remaining in the pan. Stir imtil a dark biown. Add 
the oyster Uquor, and boil one minute. Season with salt and pepper. Put back 
the steak, cover the pan, and simmer half an hour or until the steak seems 
tender, then add the oysters and lemon juice. Boil one minute. Serve on a hot 
dish with points of toast for a garnish. 



I 



MEATS. I6l 

SMOTHERED BEEFSTEAK. 

Take thin slices of steak from the upper part of the round or one large thin 
steak, Lay the meat out smoothly and wipe it dry. Prepare a dressing, using a 
cupful of fine bread-crumbs, half a teaspoonful of salt, some pepper, a table 
spoonful of butter, half a teaspoonful of sage, the same of powdered smnmer 
savory, and enough milk to moisten it all into a stiff mixture, Spread it over 
the meat, roll it up carefully, and tie with a string, securing the ends well. 
Now fry a few thin slices of salt pork in the bottom of a kettle or sauce-pan, 
and into the fat that has fried out of this pork, place this roU or roUs of beef, 
and brown it on aU sides, turning it until a rich color all over, then add half a 
pint of water, and stew until tender. IS. the flavor of onion is liked, a shoe may 
be chopped fine and added to the dressing. When cooked sufficiently, take out 
the meat, thicken the gravy, and turn over it. To be carved cutting crosswise^ 
in slices, through beef and stuffing, 

BEEFSTEAK ROLLS. 

This mode is similar to the above recipe, but many might prefer it. 
Prepare a good dressing, such as you like for turkey or duck; take a round 
steak, pound it, but not very hard, spread the dressing over it, sprinkle in a little 
salt, pepper, and 9,,,few bits of butter, lap over the ends, roll the steak up tightly 
and tie closely; spread two great spoonfuls of butter over the steak after roUing 
it up, then wash with a well-beaten egg, put water in the bake-pan, lay in the 
steak so as not to touch the water, and bake as you would a duck, basting often 
A half hour in a brisk oven will bake. Make a brown gravy, and send to th« 
table hot. 

TO COLLAR A FLANK OF BEEF, 

Procure a well-corned flank of beef, — say six pounds. Wash it, and remove 
the inner and outer skin with the gristle. Prepare a seasoning of one teaspoon- 
ful each of sage, parsley, thyme, pepper and cloves. Lay your meat upon a 
board and spread this mixture over the inside. Roll the beef up tight, fasten it 
with small skewers, put a cloth over it, bandage the cloth with tape, put the 
beef into the stew-pot, cover it with water to the depth of an inch, boil gently 
six hours; take it out of the water, place it on a board without undoing it; lay a 
board on top of the beef, put a fifty pound weight upon this board, and let it 
remain twenty-four hours. Take off the bandage, garnish with green pickles 
and curled parsley, and seiVe. 



102 MEATS. 



DRIED BEEF. 



Buy the best of beef, or that part which will be the most lean and tender. 
The tender part of the round is a very good piece. For every twenty pounds of 
beef use one pint of salt, one teaspoonful of saltpetre, and a quarter of a pound 
of brown sugar. Mix them well together, and rub the beef well with one-third 
of the mixture for three successive days. Let it he in the hquor it makes for 
. six days, then hang up to dry. 

A large crock or jar is a good vessel to prepare the meat in before drying it. 

BEEF CORNED OR SALTED. (Red.) 

Cut up a quarter of beef. For each hundred weight take half a peck of 
coarse salt, a quarter of a pound of saltpetre, the same weight of saleratus, and 
a quart of molasses, or two pounds of coarse brown sugar. Mace, cloves and 
allspice, may be added for spiced beef. 

Strew some of the salt in the bottom of a pickle-tub or barrel; then put in a 
layer of meat, strew this with salt, then add another layer of meat, and salt and 
meat alternately, until all is used. Let it remain one night. Dissolve the 
saleratus and saltpetre in a Uttle warm water, and put it to the molasses or 
sugar; then put it over the meat, add water enough to cover the meat, lay a 
board on it to keep it under the brine. The meat is fit for use after ten days. 
This receipt is for winter beef. Rather more salt may be used in warm weather. 

Towards spiing take the brine from the meat, make it boihng hot, skim it 
clear, and when it is cooled, return it to the meat. 

Beef tongues and smoking pieces are fine pickled in this brine. Beef liver 
put in this brine for ten days, and then wiped dry and smoked, is very fine. Cut 
it in slices, and fry or broil it. The brisket of beef, after being corned, may be 
smoked, and is very good for boiling. 

Lean pieces of beef, cut properly from the hind quarter, are the proper pieces 
for being smoked. There may be some fine pieces cut from the fore-quarter. 

After the beef has been in brine ten days or more, wipe it dry, and hang it in 
a chimney where wood is burned, or make a smothered fire of sawdust or chips, 
and keep it smoking for ten days; then rub fine black pepper over every part to 
keep the flies from it, and hang it in a dry, dark, cool place. After a week it is 
fit for use. A strong, coarse brown paper, folded around the beef, and fastened 
with paste, keeps it nicely. 

Tongues are smoked in the same manner Hang them by a string put 



MEATS. \0% 

through the root end. Spiced brine for smoked beef or tongues will be gener 
ally liked. 

ROAST BEEF PIE WITH POTATO CRUST. 

When you have a cold roast of beef, cut off as much as will half fill a baking- 
-iish suited to the size of your family; put this sliced beef into a stew-pan with 
any gravy that you may have also saved, a lump of butter, a bit of sliced onion, 
^nd a seasoning of pepper and salt, with enough water to make plenty of gravy; 
thicken it, too, by dredging in a tablespoonful of flour; cover it up on the fire, 
where it may stew gently, but not be in danger of burning. Meanwhile there 
must be boiled a sufficient quantity of potatoes to fill up your baking-dish, after 
the stewed meat has been transferred to it. The potatoes must be boiled done, 
mashed smooth, and beaten up with milk and butter, as if they were to be 
served alone, and placed in a thick layer on top of the meat. Brush it over with 
egg, place the dish in an oven, and let it remain there long enough to be browu. 
There should be a goodly quantity of gravy left with the beef, that the dish be 
not dry and tasteless. Serve with it tomato sauce, Worcestershire sauce or any 
other kind that you prefer. A good, plain dish. 

ROAST BEEF PIE. 

Cut up roast beef, or beef steak left from a previous meal, into thin slices, 
lay some of the slices into a deep dish which you have lined on the sides with 
rich biscuit dough, roUed very thin, (sayia quarter of an inch thick); now 
sprinkle over this layer a httle pepper and salt; put in a small bit of butter, a 
few sUces of cold potatoes, a little of the cold gravy, if you have any left from 
the roast. Make another layer of beef, another layer of seasoning, and so on, 
until the dish is filled; cover the whole with paste, leaving a sUt in the centre, 
and bake half an hour. 

BEEF STEAK PIE. 

Cut up rump or flank steak into strips two inches long and about an inch 
wide. Stew them with the bone in just enough water to cover them until partly 
cooked; have half a dozen of cold boiled potatoes shced. Line a baking-dish 
with pie paste, put in a layer of the meat with salt, pepper, and a little of thinly 
sliced onion, then one of the sliced potatoes, with bits of butter dotted over 
them. Then the steak, alternated with layers of potato, imtil the dish is full. 
Add the gravy or broth, having first thickened it with brown flour. Cover 
Avith a top crust, making a sUt in the middle; brush a Uttle beaten egg over it, 
and bake until quite brown. 



I04 AfEA TS. 

FRIZZLED BEEF. 

Shave off very thin slices of smoked or dried beef, put them in a frymgpan, 
cover with cold water, set it on the back of the range or stove, and let it come 
to a very slow heat, allowing it time to swell out to its natural size, but not to 
boil. Stir it up, then drain off the water. Melt one ounce of sweet butter in 
the frying-pan, and add the wafers of beef. When they begin to frizzle or turn 
up, break over them three eggs; stir until the eggs are cooked; add a little white 
pepper, and serve on slices of buttered toast. 

FLANK STEAK. 

This is cut from the boneless part of the flank and is secreted between an out- 
side and inside layer of creamy fat. There are two ways for broiling it. One is 
to slice it diagonally across the grain; the other is to broil it whole. In either 
case brush butter over it and proceed as in broiling other steaks. It is considered 
by butchers the finest steak, which they frequently reserve for themselves. 

TO BOIL CORNED BEEF. 

The aitch-bone and the brisket are considered the best pieces for boiling. If 
you buy them in the market already corned, they will be fit to put over the 
fire without a previous soaking in water. If you corn them in the brine in 
which you keep your beef through the winter, they must be soaked in cold 
water over night. Put the beef into a pot, cover with sufficient cold water. 
place over a brisk fire, let it come to a boil in half an hour; just before boiling 
remove all the scum from the pot. place the pot on the back of the fire, let it boil 
very slowly until quite tender. 

A piece weighing eight pounds requires two and a half hours' boiling. If 
you do not wish to eat it hot, let it remain in the pot after you take it from the 
fire, until nearly cold, then lay it in a colander to drain, lay a cloth over it to 
retain its fresh appearance; serve with horse-radish and pickles. 

K vegetables are to accompany this, making it the old-fashioned " boiled 
diimer," about three-quarters of an hour before dishing up skim the liquor free 
from fat and turn part of it out into another kettle, into which put a cabbage 
carefully prepared, cutting it into four quarters; also half a dozen peeled 
medium-sized white turnips, cut into halves; scrape foiu- carrots and four 
parsnips each cut into four pieces. Into the kettle with the meat, about half an 
hour before serving, pour on more water from the boiling tea-kettle, and into 
this put peeled medium-sized potatoes. This dinner should also be accompanied 



MEATS. 105 

by boiled beets, sliced hot, cooked separate- from the rest, with vinegar over 
them. Cooking the cabbage separately from the meat prevents the meat from 
having the flavor of cabbage when cold. The carrots, parsnips and turnips will 
boil in about an hour. A piece of salt pork was usually boiled with a " New 
England boiled dinner." 

SPICED BEEF RELISH. 

Take two pounds of raw, tender beefsteak, chop it very fine, put into it salt, 
pepper and a little sage, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter; add two rolled 
crackers made very fine, also two weU-beaten eggs. Make it up into the shape 
of a roU and bake it; baste with butter and water before baking. Cut in slices 
when cold. 

FRIED BEEF LIVER. 

Cut it in rather thin slices, say a quarter of an inch thick, pour over it boiling 
water, which closes the pores of the meat, makes it impervious to the fat, 
and at the same time seals up the rich juice of the meat. It may be rolled in 
flour or bread-crumbs, seasoned with salt and pepper, dipped in egg and fried in 
hot fat mixed with one-third butter. 

PRESSED BEEF. 
First have your beef nicely pickled: let it stay in pickle a week; then take 
the thin flanky pieces, such as will not make a handsome dish of themselves; 
put on a large potful, and let them boil until perfectly done; then puU to pieces, 
and season just as you do souse, with pepper, salt and allspice; only put it in a 
coarse cloth and press down upon it some very heavy weight. 

The advantage of this recipe is that it makes a most acceptable, presentable 
dish out of a part of the beef that otherwise might be wasted. 

FRENCH STEW. 

Grease the laottom of an iron pot, and place in it three or four pounds of 
beef; be very careful that it does not burn, and turn it until it is nicely browned. 
Set a muffin ring under the beef to prevent its sticking. Add a few sliced 
carrots, one or two sliced omons, and a cupful of ho^^ water, keep covered, and 
stew slowly until the vegetables are done. Add pepper and salt. If you wish 
more gravy, add hot water, and thicken with flour. Serve on a dish with the 
vegetables. 

TO POT BEEF, 

The round is the best piece for potting, and you may use both the upper and 
under part. Take ten pounds of beef, remove all the fat, cut the lean into 



106 MEATS 

square pieces, two inches thick. Mix together three teaspoonfuls of salt, one of 
pepper, one of cloves, one of mace, one of cinnamon, one of allspice, one of 
thyme, and one of sweet basil. Put a layer of the pieces of beef into an earthen 
pot, sprinkle some of this spice mixture over this layer, add a piece of fat salt 
pork, cut as thin as possible, sprinkle a little of the spice mixture over the pork, 
make another layer of the beef with spices and pork, and so on, imtil the pot is 
fQled. Pour over the whole three tablespoonfuls of Tarragon vinegar, or^ if you 
prefer it, half a pint of Madeira wine; cover the pot with a paste made of flour 
and water, so that no steam can escape. Put the pot into an oven, moderately 
heated, and let it stand there eight hours; then set it away to use when wanted. 

Beef cooked in this manner will keep good a fortnight in moderate weather. 

It is an excellent relish for breakfast, and may be eaten either warm or cold. 
When eaten warm, serve with sUces of lemon . 

STEWED BRISKET OF BEEF 

Put the part that has the hard fat into a stew-pot, with a small quantity of 
water; let it boil up, and skim it thoroughly; then add carrots, turnips, onions, 
celery and a few pepper-corns. Stew tiU extremely tender; then take out all the 
flat bones and remove all the fat from the soup. Either serve that and the meat 
in a tureen, or the soup alone, and the meat on a dish, garnished with some 
vegetables. The following sauce is much admired served with the beef: Take 
half a pint of the soup, and mix it with a spoonful of catsup, a teaspoonful of 
made mustard, a Uttle flour, a bit of butter and salt; boil all together a few 
minutes, then pour it round the meat. 

DRIED BEEF, WITH CREAM. 

Shave your beef very fine. Put it into a suitable dish on the back of the 
stove; cover with cold water and give it time to soak out to .its original size 
before being dried. When it is quite soft and the water has become hot (it must 
not boil), take it olBf, turn off the water, pour on a cup of cream; if you do not 
have it use milk and butter, a pinch of pepper; let it come to a boil, thicken 
vdth a tablespoonful of flour, wet up in a httle milk. Serve on dipped toast or 
not, just as one fancies. A nice breakfast dish. 

BEEF CROQUETTES. No. i. 

Chop fine one cup of cold, cooked, lean beef, half a cup of fat, half a cup of 
cold boiled or fried ham; cold pork will do if you have not the ham. Also mince 
up a slice of onion. Season all with a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of 



MEATS. 107 

pepper, and a teaspoonful of powdered sage or parsley, if liked. Heat together 
with half a cup of stock or milk; when cool, add a beaten egg. Form the mix- 
tm-e into balls, slightly flattened, roll in egg and bread-crumbs, or flour and egg. 
Fiy in hot lard or beef drippings. Serve on a platter and garnish with sprigs of 
parsley. Almost any cold meats can be used instead of beef. 

BEEF CROQUETTES. No. 2- 

Take cold roast or corned beef. Put it into a wooden bowl and chop it fine. 
Mix with it about twice the quantity of hot mashed potatoes well seasoned with 
butter and. salt. Beat up an egg and work it into the potato and meat, then 
form the mixture into Uttle cakes the size of fish balls. Flatten them a little, 
roll in flom- or egg and cracker crumbs, fry in butter and lard mixed, browning 
on both sides. Serve piping hot. 

MEAT AND POTATO CROQUETTES. 

Put in a stew-pan an ounce of butter and a shce of onion minced fine; when this 
simmers, add a level tablespoonful of sifted flour; stir the mixture until it 
becomes smooth and frothy; then add half of a cupful of milk, some seasoning 
of salt and pepper; let aU boil, stimng it all the while. Now add a cupful of cold 
meat chopped fine and a cupful of cold or hot mashed potato. Mix aU thor- 
oughly and spread on a plate to cool. When it is cool enough, shape it with 
your hands into balls or roUs. Dip them in beaten egg and roll in cracker or 
bread-crumbs. Drop them into hot lard and fry about two minutes a delicate 
brown; take them out with a skimmer and di-ain them on a piece of brown 
paper. Serve immediately while hot. These are very nice. 

Cold rice or hominy may be used in place of the potato; or a cupful of cold 
fish minced fine in place of the meat. 

COLD ROAST, WARMED. 
Cut from the remains of a cold roast the lean meat from the bones into 
small, thin slices. Put over the fire a frying-pan containing a spoonful of butter 
or drippings. Cut up a quarter of an onion and fiy it brown, then remove the 
onion, add the meat gravy left from the day before, and if not thick enough, add 
a little flour; salt and pepper. 

Turn the pieces of meat into this, and let them simmer a few minutes. Serve 
hot. 

COLD ROAST, WARMED. No. 2. 
Cold rare roast beef may be made as good as when freshly cooked by slicing, 
seasoning with salt, pepper and bits of butter; put it in a plate or pan with a 
8 



Io8 MEATS. 

spoonful or two of water, covering closely, and set in the oven until hot, but no 
longer. Cold steak may be shaved very fine with a knife and used the same way. 

Or, if the meat is in small pieces, cover them with buttered letter paper, 
twist each end tightly, and boil them on the gridiron, sprinkling them with 
finely chopped herbs. 

Still another nice way of using cold meats is to mince the lean portions very 
fine, and add to a batter made of one pint of milk, one cup of flour and three 
eggs. Fry like fritters, and serve with drawn butter or sauce. 

COLD MEAT AND POTATO, BAKED. 

Put in a frying-pan a round tablespoonful of cold butter; when it becomes 
hot, stir into it a teaspoonful of chopped onion and a tablespoonful of flour, stir- 
ring it constantly until it is smooth and frothy; then add two-thirds of ft cupful 
of cold milk or water. Season this with salt and pepper and allow it to come to 
a boil; then add a cupful of cold meat finely chopped and cleared from bone and 
skin; let this all heat thoroughly; then turn it into a shallow dish well buttered. 
Spread hot or cold mashed potatoes over the top, and cook for fifteen or twenty 
minutes in a moderate hot oven. 

Cold hominy or rice may be used in place of mashed potatoes, and is equally 
as good. 

BEEF HASH. No. i. 

Chop rather finely cold roast beef or pieces of beef steak, also chop twice aa 
much cold boiled potatoes. Put over the fire a stew-pan or frying-pan, in which 
put a piece of butter as large as required to season it well, add pepper and salt, 
moisten with beef gravy if you have it, if not, with liot water; cover and let it 
steam and heat through thoroughly, stirring occasionally, so that the ingredients 
be evenly distributed, and to keep the hash from sticking to the bottom of the 
pan. When done it should not be at all watery, nor yet dry, but have sufficient 
adhesiveness to stand well on a dish, or buttered toast. Many like the flavor of 
onion; if so, fry two or three slices in the butter before adding tJie hash. 
Corned beef makes excellent hash. 

BEEF HASH. No. 2. 

Chop cold roast beef, or pieces of beefsteak; fry half an onion in a piece of 
butter; when the onion is brown, add the chopped beef; season with a little salt 
and pepper; moisten with the beef gravy, if you have any, if not, with sufiicient 
water and a Uttle butter; cook long enough to be hot, but no longer, as much 
cooking toughens the meat. An excellent breakfast dish. 



MEATS. £09 

Some prefer to let a cnist form on the bottom and turn the hash brown side 
uppermost. Served with poached eggs on top. 

HAMBURGER STEAK. 

Take a pound of raw flank or round steak, without any fat, bone or strmgy 
pieces. Chop it until a perfect mince; it cannot be chopped too fine. Also chop 
a smaU onion quite fine, and mix weU with the meat. Season with salt and 
pepper; make into cakes as large as a biscuit, but quite flat, or into one large flat 
cake a Uttle less than half an inch thick. Have ready a frying-pan, with 
butter and lard mixed; when boiling hot. put in the steak and fry brown. 
Garnish with celery top around the edge of the platter and two or three slices of 
lemon oq the top of the meat. 

A brown gi-avy made from the grease the steak was fried in, and poured over 
the meat, enriches it. 

TO ROAST BEEF HEART. 

Wash it carefully and open it sufficiently to remove the ventricles, then soak 

it in cold water until the blood is discharged; wipe it dry and stuff it nicely with 

dressing, as for turkey; roast it about an hour and a half. Serve it with the 

gravy, which should be thickened with some of the stuffing, and a glass of wuie. 

Tt is very nice hashed. Served with currant jelly. 

— Palmer House, Chicago. 

STEWED BEEF KIDNEY. 

Cut the kidney into slices, season highly with pepper and salt, fry it a light 
brown, take out the shces, then pour a httle warm water infb the pan, dredge in 
some flour, put in shces of kidney again; let them stew very gently; add some 
parsley if liked. Sheep's kidneys may be spht open, broiled over a clear fire, and 
served with a piece of butter placed on each half. 

BEEF'S HEART, STEWED. 

After washing the heart thoroughly, cut ^ up into squares half an inch long; 
put them into a sauce-pan with water enough to cover them. If any scum 
rises, skim it off. Now take out the meat, strain the liquor, and put back the 
meat, also add a shced onion, some parsley, a head of celery chopped fine, pepper 
and salt, and a piece of butter. Stew until the meat is very tender. Stir up a 
tablespoonful of brown floiir with a small quantity of water, and thicken the 
whole. Boil up and serve, 



no MEATS. 

BOILED BEEF TONGUE. 

Wash a fresh tongue and just cover it with water in the pot; put in a pint of 
Bait and a small red pepper; add more water as it evaporates, so as to keep the 
tongue nearly covered until done — when it can be easily pierced with a fork; take 
it out, and if wanted soon, take off the skin a.nd set it away to cool. If wauted 
for future use, do not peel until it is required. A cupful of salt will do for three 
tongues, if you have that number to boil; but do not fail to keep water enough 
in the pot to keep them covered while boiUng. If salt tongues are used, soak 
them over night, of course omitting the salt when boiling. Or, after peeling a 
tongue, place it in a sauce-pan with one cup of water, half a cup vinegar, four 
tablespoonfuls sugar, and cook until the liquor is evaporated. 

SPICED BEEF TONGUE. 

Rub into each tongue a mixture made of half a pound of brown sugar, a piece 
of saltpetre the size of a pea, and a tablespoonful of ground cloves; put it in a 
brine made of three-quarters of a pound of salt to two quarts of water and 
keep covered. Pickle two weeks, then wash well and dry with a cloth; roll out 
a thin paste made of flour and water, smear it all over the tongue and place in a 
pan to bake slowly; baste well with lard and hot water; when done scrape off 
the paste and skin. 

TO BOIL TRIPE. 

Wash it well in warm water, and trim it nicely, taking off all the fat. Cut 
into small pieces, and put it on to boil five hours before dinner in water enough 
to cover it very well. After it has boiled four hours, pour off the water, season 
the tripe with pepper and salt, and put it into a pot with milk and water mixed 
in equal quantities. Boil it an hour in the milk and water. 

Boil in a sauce-pan ten or a dozen onions. When they are quite soft, drain 
them in a colander, and mash them. Wipe out your sauce-pan and put them on 
again, with a bit of butter rolled in flour and a wineglass of cream or milk. Let 
them boil up, and add them to the tripe just before you send it to table. Eat it 
with pepper, vinegar and mustard. 

It is best to give tripe its first and longest boiling the day before it is wanted. 

TO FRY TRIPE. 

Boil the tripe the day before till it is quite tender, which it will not be in less 
than four or five hours. Then cover it and set it away. Next day cut it ink> 
long slips, and dip each piece into beaten yolk of egg, and afterwards roll them 



MEATS. Ill 

in grated bread-crumbs. Have ready ia a frying-pan over the fire some good 
beef dripping. When it is boiling hot put in the tripe, and fry it about ten 
minutes, till of a light brown. 

You may serve it with onion sauce. 

Boiled tripe that has been left from the dinner of the preceding day may be 
fried in this manner. 

FRICASSEED TRIPE. 

Cut a pound of tripe in narrow strips, put a small cup of water or milk to it, 
add a bit of butter the size of an egg, dredge in a large teaspoonful of flour, or 
work it with the butter; season with pepper and salt, let it simmer gently for 
half an hour, serve hot. A bunch of parsley cut small and put with it is ao 
improvement. 

Some put in oysters five minutes before dishing up. 

TRIPE LYONNAISE. 

Cut up half a pound of cold boiled tripe into neat squares. Put two ounces 
of butter and a tablespoonf ul of chopped onion in a frying-pan and fry to a deli- 
cate brown; add to the tripe a teaspoonful of chopped parsley and a little strong 
vinegar, salt, and cayenne; stir the pan to prevent burning. Cover the bottom 
of a platter with tomato-sauce, add the contents of the pan and serve. 

TO CLARIFY BEEF DRIPPINGS. 

iDrippings accumulated from different cooked meats of beef or veal can be 
clarified by putting it into a basin and sUcing into it a raw potato, allowing it to 
boil long enough for the potato to brown, which causes all impurities to dis- 
appear. Remove from the fire, and when cool drain it off from the sediment 
that settles at the bottom. Turn it into basins or small jars and set it in a cool 
place for future use. ' When' mixed with an equal amovmt of butter it answers 
the same purpose as clear butter for frying and basting any meats excepting 
game and poultry. 

Mutton drippings impart an unpleasant flavor to anything cooked outside of 
its kind. 

ROAST LOIN OF VEAL. 

Prepare it the same as any roast, leaving in the kidney, around which put 
considerable salt. Make a dressing the same as for fowls; imroll the loin, put 
the stuffing well around the kidney, fold and secure with several coils of white 
cotton twine wound around in all directions; place in a dripping-pan with the 



1 1 2 ME A TS. 

thick side down, and put in a rather liot oven, graduated after it commences to 
roast to moderate; in half an hour add a little hot water to the pan, and baste 
often; in another half hour turn over the roast, and when about done dredge 
lightly with flour and baste with melted butter. Before serving, carefully 
remove the twine. A roast of four to five pounds will bake in about two hours. 
For a gravy, skim off some of the fat if there is too much in the diippings; 
dredge in some flour, stir until brown, add some hot water if necessary, boil a 
few minutes, stir in such sweet herbs as fancied, and put in a gravy boat. Serve 
with green peas and lemon jelly. Is very nice sliced cold for luKch, and Wor- 
cestershire or Chili sauce forms a fine relish. 

ROAST FILLET OF VEAL. 

Select a nice fillet, take out the bone, fill up the space with stuffing, and also 
put a good layer under the fat. Truss it of a good shape by drawing the fat 
round, and tie it up with tape. Cook it rather moderately at first, and baste 
with butter. It should have careful attention and frequent basting, that the fat 
may not burn. Roast from three to four hours, according to the size. After it 
is dished, pour melted butter over it; serve with ham or bacon, and fresh 
cucumbers, if in season. Veal, Uke all other meat, should be well washed in 
cold water before cooking and wiped thoroughly dry with a clean cloth. Cold 
fillet of veal is very good stewed with tomatoes and an onion or two. 

In roasting veal, care must be taken that it is not at first placed in too hot 
an oven; the fat of a loin, one of the most delicate joints of veal, should be 
covered with greased paper; a fillet, also, should have on the caul until nearly 
done enough. 

BOILED FILLET OF VEAL. 

Choose a small, debeate fillet; prepare as for roasting, or stuflf it with an 
oyster force-meat; after having washed it thoroughly, cover it with water and 
let it boil very gently three and a half or four hours, keeping it well skimmed. 
Send it to the table with a rich white sauce, or, if stuffed with oysters, a tureen 
of oyster sauce. Garnish with stewed celery and sUces of bacon. A boiled 
tongue should be served with it. 

VEAL PUDDING. 

Cut about two pounds of lean veal into small coUops a quarter of an inch in 
thickness; put a piece of butter the size of an egg into a very clean frying pan to 
melt; then lay in the veal and a few slices of bacon, a small sprig of thyme, and 
a seasoning of pepper and salt; place the pan over a slow fire for about teo 



MEATS. ^ "3 

minutes, then add two or tliree spoonfuls of warm water. Just boil it iip, and 
then let it stand to cool. Line a pudding-dish with a good suet crust, lay in the 
veal and bacon, pour the gravy over it; roll out a piece of paste to form a lid, 
place it over, press it close with the thumb, tie the basin in a pudding cloth, and 
put it into a sauce-pan of boiling water, keeping continually boiling imtil done, 
or about one hour, 

FRIED VEAL CUTLETS. 

Put into a frying-pan two or three tablespoonfuls of lard or beef drippings. 
When boiUng hot lay in the cutlets, well seasoned with salt and pepper, and 
dredged with flour. Brown nicely on both sides, then remove the meat, and if 
yon have more grease than is necessary for the gravy, put it aside for further 
use. Reserve a tablespoonful or more, and rub into it a tablespoonful of flour, 
with the back of the spoon, until il is a smooth, rich brown color; then add 
graduaDy a cup of cold water and season with pepper and salt. When the gravy 
is boiled up well i-etiu-n the meat to the pan and gravy. Cover it closely and 
allow it to stew gently on the back of the range for fifteen minutes. This 
softens the meat, and with this gravy it makes a nice breakfast dish. 

Another mode is to simply fry the cutlets, and afterwards turning off some 
of the grease they were fried in and then adding to that left in the pan a few 
drops of hot water, turning the whole over the fried chops. 

FRIED VEAL CHOPS. (Plain.) 

Sprinkle over them salt and pepper, then dip them in beaten egg and cracker- 
crumbs, and fry in tlrippings, or hot lard and butter mixed. If you wish a gravy 
with them, add a tablespoonful of flour to the gravy they were fried in and turn 
in cream or mdk; season to taste with salt and pepper. Boil up and serve hot 
with the gravy in a separate dish. This dish is very fine accompanied with a 
few sound fresh tomatoes, sbced and fried m the same grease the cutlets were, 
and all dished on the same platter. 

VEAL COLLOPS. 

Cut veal from the leg or other lean part into pieces the size of an oyster. 
Season with pepper, salt and a httle mace; rub some over each piece; dip in egg, 
then into cracker-crumbs, and fry. They both look and taste Uke oysters. 

VEAL OLIVES. 
Cut up a shce of a fiUet of veal, about half an inch thick, into squares of 
three inches. Mix up a httle salt pork, chopped with bread-crumbs, one onion, 



114 ^ MEATS. 

a little pepper, salt, sweet marjoram, and one egg well beaten; put this mixture 
upon the pieces of veal, fastening the four corners together with Uttle bird 
Bkewers; lay them in a pan with a sufficient veal gravy or Ught stock to cover 
the bottom of the pan, dredge with flour, and set in a hot oven. When browned 
on top, put a small bit of butter on each, and let them remain until quite tender, 
which will take twenty minutes. Serve with horse-radish. 

VEAL CHEESE. 

Prepare equal quantities of boiled shced veal and smoked tongue. Pound the 
slices separately in a mortar, moistening with butter as you proceed; then pack it 
in a jar or pail, mixing it in alternate layers; first, the tongue and then the veal, 
so that when cut it will look variegated. Press it down hard and pour melted 
butter over the top. Keep it well covered and in a dry place. Nice for sand- 
wiches, or sUced cold for lunch. 

VEAL CROQUETTES. 

Mince a coffee cup of cold veal in a chopping bowl, adding a little cold hara, 
and two or three sUces of onion, a pinch of mace, powdered parsley and pepper, 
some salt. Let a pint of milk or cream come to the boiling point, then add a 
tablespoonful of cold butter, then the above mixture. Beat up two eggs and 
mix with a teaspoonful of corn -starch or flour, and add to the rest; cook it all 
about ten minutes, stirring with care. Remove from the fire, and spread it on 
a platter, roll it into balls, when cooled flatten each; dip them in egg and bread- 
crumbs, and fry in a wire basket, dipped in hot lard. 

BROILED VEAL CUTLETS. (Fine.) 

Two or three pounds of veal cutlets, egg and bread-crumbs, two tablespoon- 
fuls of minced savory herbs, salt and pepper to taste, a little grated nutmeg. 

Cut the cutlets about three-quarters of an inch in thickness, flatten them, and 
brush them over with the yolk of an egg; dip them into bread-crumbs and 
minced herbs, season with pepper and salt, and fold each cutlet in a piece of white 
letter paper well buttered; twist the ends, and broil over a clear fire; when done 
remove the paper. Cooked this way, they retain all the flavor. 

VEAL POT-PIE. 

Procure a nice breast or brisket of veal, well jointed, put the pieces into the 
pot with one quart of water to every five pounds of meat; put the pot over a 
slow fire; just before it comes to a boil, skim it well and pour in a teacupful of 
cold water; then turn over the meat in order that all the scum may rise, remove 



AfEATS. 115 

all the scum, boil quite hard, season with peppei" and salt to your taste, always, 
remembering that the crust will take up part of the seasoning; when this is 
done cut off your crust in pieces of equal size, but do not roll or mould them; 
lay them on top of the meat, so as to cover it; put the hd on the pot closely, let 
the whole boil slowly one hour. If the Ud does not fit the pot closely, w:rap a 
cloth around it, in order that no steam shall escape; and by no means allow the 
pot to stop boiling. 

The crust for pot-yne should be raised with yeast. To three pints of flour add 
two ounces of butter, a little salt, and wet with milk sufficient to make a soft 
dough; knead it weU and set it away to rise; when quite light, mould and knead 
it again, and let it stand, in winter, one hour, in summer, one half hour, when 
it wiU be ready to cut. 

In summer you had better add one-half a tcaspoonful of soda when you 
knead it the second time, or you may wet it with water, and add another bit of 
butter. 

VEAL PIE. 

Cut the veal into rather small pieces or slices, put. jt in a stew-pan, with hot 
water to cover it; add to it a tablespoonful of salt, and set it over the fire; take 
oflf the scum as it rises; when the meat is tender turn it into a dish to cool; take 
out aU the small bones, butter a tin or earthen basin or pudding- pan, line it with 
pie paste, lay some of the parboiled meat in to half fill it; put bits of butter in 
the size of a hickory nut aU over the meat; shake pepper ovei-, dredge wheat fliour 
over, until it looks white, then fill it nearly to the top with some of the water in 
which the meat was boiled; roll a cover for the top of the crust, puff- paste it, 
giving it two or three turns, and roU it to nearly half an inch thickness; cut a 
slit in the centre, and make several small incisions on either side of it, put the 
crust on, trim the edges neatly with a knife; bake one hour in a quick oven. A 
breast of veal will make two two-quart basin pies; half a pound of nice corned 
pork, cut in thin slices, and parboiled with the meat, wiU make it very nice, and 
very little, if any, butter, will be required for the pie; when pork is used, no 
other salt will be necessary. Many are fond of thin slices of sweet ham cooked 
with the veal for pie. 

VEAL STEW. 

Cut up two or three pornids of veal into pieces three inches long and one 
thick. Wash it, put it in your stew-pan with two quarts of water, let it boil 
skim it weU, and, when all the scum is removed, add pepper and salt to youi 



tt6 meats. 

taste, and a small piece of butter; pare and cut in halves twelve small Irish 
potatoes, put them into the stew-pan; when it boils, liave ready a batter made 
with two eggs, two spoonfuls of cream or milk, a little salt and flour enough to 
make it a little thicker than for pan-cakes; drop this into the stew, a spoonfiil at 
a time, while it is boiling; when all is in, cover the pan closely so that no steam 
can escape; let it boil twenty minutes, and serve in a deep dish. 

VEAL LOAF. 

Three pounds of raw veal, chopped very fine, butter the size of an egg, three 
eggs, three tablespoonfuls of cream or milk; if milk use a small piece of butter; 
mix the eggs and cream together; mix with the veal Tour pounded crackers, one 
teaspoonful of black pepper, one large tablespoonful salt, one large tablespoonful 
of sage; mix well together and form into a loaf. Bake two and one-half hours, 
basting with butter and water while baking. Serve cut in thin sUces. 

VEAL FOR LUNCH. 

Butter a good-sized bowl, and line it with thin slices of hard-boiled eggs; have 
Teal and ham both in very thin shoes; place in the bowl a layer of veal, with 
pepper and salt, then a layer of ham, omitting the salt, then a layer of veal, and 
so on, alternating with veal and ham, until the bowl is filled; make a paste of 
flour and water, as stiff as it can be rolled out; cover the contents of the bowl 
with the paste, and over this tie a double cotton cloth; put the bowl into a sauce 
pan, or other vessel, with water just up to the rim of the bowl, and boil three 
hours: then take it from the fire, remove the cloth and paste, and let it stand 
until the next day, when it may be turned out and served in very thin shoes. 
An excellent lunch in traveUing. 

VEAL PATTIES. 

Cut portions of the neck or breast of veal into small pieces, and, with a httle 
salt pork cut fine, stew gently for ten or fifteen minutes; season with pepper and 
Bait, and a smaU piece of celery chopped coarsely, also of the yellow top, picked 
(not chopped) up; stir in a paste made of a tablespoonful of flour the yolk of one 
egg, and milk to form a thin batter; let all come to a boil, and it is ready for the 
patties. Make the patties of a light, flaky crust, as for tarts, cut round, the 
size of a small sauce-plate; the centre of each, for about three inches, cut half 
way through, to be raised and serve as a cover. Put a spoonful of the stew in 
each crust, lay on the top, and serve. Stewed oysters or lamb may be used in 
place of veal. 



■ MEATS. 1-17 

BRAISED VEAL. 

Take a piece of the shoulder weighing about five pounds. Have the bone 
removed and tie up the meat to make it firm. Put a piece of butter the size of 
half an egg, together with a few shavings of onion, into a kettle or stone crock 
and let it get hot. Salt and pepper the veal and put it into the kettle, cover it 
tightly and put it over a medium fire until the meat is brown on both sides, 
turning it occasionally. Then set the kettle back on the stove, where it will 
simmer slowly for about two hours and a half. Before setting the meat back on 
the stove, see if the juice of the meat together with the butter do not make gravy 
enough, and if not, put in about two tablespoonfuls of hot water. When the 
gravy is cold it will be hke jelly. It can be served hot with the hot meat, or cold 
with the cold meat. 

BAKED CALF'S HEAD. 

Boil a calf's head (after having cleaned it) until tender, then spUt it in two, 
and keep the best half; (bone it if you hke); cut the meat from the other in uni- 
form pieces; the size of an oyster; put bits of butter, the size of a nutmeg, aU 
over the best half of the head; sprinkle pepper over it, and dredge on flour until 
it looks white, then set it on a trivet or muffin rings in a dripping-pan; put a 
cup of water into the pan, and set it in a hot oven; turn it that it may brown 
evenly; baste once or twice. Whilst this is doing, dip the prepared pieces of 
the head in wheat flour or batter, and fry in hot lard or beef dripping a deUcate 
brown; season with pepper and salt and slices of lemon, if hked. When the 
roast is done put it on a hot dish, lay the fried pieces around it, and cover it with 
a tin cover; put the gravy from the dripping-pan into the pan in which the 
pieces were fried, with the slices of lemon, and a tablespoonful of browned flour, 
and, if necessary, a httle hot water. Let it boil up once, and strain it into a 
gravy boat, and serve with the meat. 

CALF'S HEAD CHEESE- 

Boil a calf's head in water enough to cover it, until the meat leaves the bones; 
then take it with a skimmer into a wooden bowl or tray; take from it every 
particle of bone; chop it small; season with pepper and salt, a heaping table- 
spoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful of pepper will be sufficient; if hked, add a 
tablespoonftil of finely chopped sweet herbs; lay in a cloth in a colander, put the 
minced meat into it, then fold the cloth closely over it, lay a plate over, and on 
it a gentle weight. When cold it may be shced thin for supper or sandwiches. 
Spread each shce with made mustard. 



Il8 MEATS. 

BRAIN CUTLETS. 

Well wash the brains and soak them in cold water till white. Parboil them 
till tender in a small sauce-pan for about a quarter of an hour; then thoroughly 
drain them, and place them on a board. Divide them into small pieces with a 
knife. Dip each piece into flour, and then roll them in egg and bread-crumbs, 
and fry them in butter or well-clarified dripping. Serve very hot with gravy. 
Another way of doing brains is to prepare them as above, and then stew them 
gently in rich stock, like stewed sweetbreads. They are also nice plainly boiled, 
and served with parsley and butter sauce. 

CALF'S HEAD BOILED. 

Put the head into boiling water and let it remain about five minutes; take it 
out, hold it by the ear, and with the back of the knife scrape off the hair, (should 
it not come ofif easily, dip the head again in boiling water). When perfectly 
clean, take the eyes out, cut off the ears, and remove the brain, which soak for 
an hour in warm water. Put the head to soak in hot water a few minutes to 
make it look white, and then have ready a stew-pan, into which lay the head; 
cover it vinth cold water, and bring it gradually to boil. Eemove the scvun, and 
add a httle salt, which increases it and causes it to rise to the top. Simmer it 
very gently from two and a half to three hours, or until the bones will shp out 
easily, and when nearly done, boil the brains fifteen or twenty minutes; skin and 
chop them, (not too finely), and add a tablespoonful of minced parsley which has 
been previously scalded; also a pinch of pepper, salt; then stir into this four 
tablespoonfuls of melted butter, set it on the back of the range to keep it hot. 
When the head is done, take it up, and drain very dry. Score the top and rub 
it over with melted butter; dredge it with flour, and set it in the oven to brown. 

When you serve the head, have it accompanied with a gravy boat of mdted 
butter and minced parsley. 

CALF'S LIVER AND BACON. 

Slice the hver a quarter of an inch thick; pour hot water over it, and let it 
remain for a few minutes to clear it from blood; then dry it in a cloth. Take a 
pound of bacon, or as much as you require, and cut the same number of thin 
shces as you have of hver; fry the bacon to a nice crisp; take it out and keep it 
hot; then fry the hver in the same pan, haviijg first seasoned it vdth pepper and 
salt and dredged in a little flour; lay it in the hot bacon fat and fry it a nic« 
brown. Serve it with a shce of bacon on the top of each shce of hver. 



MEATS. 119 

If you wish a gravy with it, pour off most of the fat from the fi7ing-pan, put 
in about two ounces of butter, a tablespoonf ul of flour well rubbed in, add a cup 
of water, salt and pepper, give it one boil and serve in a gravy boat. 

Another tuay. — Cut the liver in nice thin slices, pour boiling water over it, 
and let it stand about five minutes; then drain and put in a dripping-pan with 
three or four thin slices of salt pork or bacon; pepper and salt, and put in the 
oven, letting it cook until thoroughly done, then serve with a cream or milk 
gravy poured over it 

Calf's Hver and bacon are very good broiled after cutting each in thin slices 
Season with butter, pepper and salt. 

CROQUETTES OF SWEETBREADS 

Take four veal sweetbreads, soak them fox an hour in cold«alted water, first remov 
ing the pipes and membranes; then put them into boiling salted water with a table- 
spoonful of vinegar, and cook them twenty minutes, then drop them again into cold 
water to harden. Now remove them, chop them very fine, almost to a paste. Season 
with salt, pepper and a teaspoon £ul of grated onion; add the beaten yolks of three 
raw eggs, one tablespoonful of butter, half a cupful of cream, and sufficient fine 
cracker crumbs to make stiff enough to roll out into little balls or cork-shaped cro- 
quettes. Have ready a frying-kettle half-full of fat over the fire, a dish containing 
three smoothly beaten eggs, a large platter of cracker dust; wet the hands with cold 
water and make the mixture in shape; afterwards rolling them in the cracker dust, 
then into the beaten egg, and again in the cracker dust; smooth them on the outside 
and drop them carefully in the hot fat. When the croquettes are fried a nice golden 
brown, put them on a brown paper a moment to free them from grease. Serve hot 
with sliced lemon or parsley. 

SWEETBREADS. 

There are two in a calf, which are considered delicacies. Select the largest. 
The color should be clear and a shade darker than the fat. Before cooking in 
any mamier let them lie for half an hour in tepid water; then throw into hot 
water to whiten and harden, after which draw off the outer casing, remove the 
little pipes, and cut into thin shoes. They should always be thoroughly cooKed. 
FRIED SWEETBREADS. 

After preparing them as above they are put into hot fat and butter, and fried 
the same as lamb chop, also broiled the same, first roUing them in egg and 
cracker-crumbs. BAKED SWEETBREADS. 

Three sweetbreads, egg and bread-crumbs, oUed butter, three slices of toast 
brovna gravy. 

Choose large, white sweetbreads; put them into warm water to draw out the 



120 MEATS. 

blood, and to improve their color: let them remain for rather more than one 
hour; then put them into boiling water, and allow them to simmer for about ten 
minutes, which renders them firm. Take them up, drain them, brush over the 
^gg> sprinkle with bread-cnunbs; dip them in egg again, and then into more 
bread-crumbs. Drop on them a httle oiled butter, and put the sweetbreads into 
a moderately heated oven, and let them bake for nearly three-quarters of an hour. 
Make three pieces of toast; place the sWeetbreads on the toast, and pour round, 
but not over them, a good brown gravy. 

FRICASSEED SWEETBREADS. 

If they are uncooked, cut into thin shoes, let them simmer in a rich gravy for 
three-quarters of an hour, add a well-beaten egg, two tablespoonfuls of cream 
and a tablespoonful of chopped parsley; stir all together for a few minutes and 
serve immediately. 



button anb Xamb. 

ROAST MUTTON. 
The pieces mostly used for roasting are the hind quarter of the sheep, called 
the loin and leg, the fore-quarter, the shoulder, also the chine or saddle, which is 
the two loins together. Every part should be trimmed off that cannot be eaten; 
then wash well and dry with a clean cloth; lay it in your dripping-pan and put 
in a Uttle water to baste it with at first; then afterward with its own gravy. 
Allow,, in roasting, about twelve minutes to the pound; that is, if your fire is 
strong, which it should be. It should not be salted at first, as that tends to 
harden it, and draws out too much of the blood or juices; but salt soon after it 
begins to roast well. If there is danger of its browning too fast, cover it with a 
sheet of white paper. Baste it often, and about a quarter of an hour before you 
think it will be done dredge the meat very Ughtly with flour and baste it with 
butter. Skim the gravy well and thicken very shghtly with brovni floiu-. Serve 
with currant jelly or other tart sauce. 

BONED LEG OF MUTTON ROASTED. 
Take the bone out of a small leg of mutton, without spoiling the skin if 
possible, then cut off most of the fat. In the hole whence the bone was 
taken, fill with a stuffing made the same as for fowls, adding to it part of an 



MEATS. 121 

onion finely minced Sew the leg up underneath to prevent the dressing or 
stuffing from falling out. Bind and tie it up compactly; put it in a roastJng- 
pan, turn in a cupful of hot water and place it in a moderately hot oven, bast 
ing it occasionally. When partly cooked season with salt and pepper. When 
thoroughly cooked, remove and place the leg on a warm platter; skim the grease 
from the top of the drippings, add a cup of water and thicken -with a spoonful 
of dissolved flour. Send the gravy to the • table in a gravy dish, also a dish of 
currant jelly. 

BOILED LEG OF MUTTON. 
To prepare a leg of mutton for boihng, wash it clean, cut a small piece off the 
shank bone, and trim the knuckle. Put it into a pot with water enough to cover 
it, and boil gently from two to three hours, skimming well. Then take it from 
the fire, and keeping the pot well covered, let it finish by remainingJn the steam 
for ten or fifteen minutes. Serve it up vnth a sauce-boat of melted butter, into 
which a teacupf ul of capers or nasturtiums, have been stirred. If the broth is to 
be used for soup, put in a httle salt while boiUng; if not, salt it weU when partly 
done, and boil the meat m a cloth. 

BRAISED LEG OF MUTTON. 
This recipe can be varied either by preparing the leg with a stuffing, placed in 
the cavity after having the bone removed, or cooking it without. Having lined 
the bottom of a thick iron kettle or stew-pan with a few thin shoes of bacon, put 
over the bacon four caiTots, three onions, a bunch of savory herbs; then over 
these place the leg oE mutton. Cover the whole with a few more slices of bacon, 
then pour over half of a pint of water. Cover with a tight cover and stew very 
gently for four hours, basting the leg occasionally with its ov^ti liquor, and sea- 
soning it with salt and pepper as soon as it begins to be tender. When cooked 
strain the gravy, thicken vdth a spoonful of flour, (it should be quite brown), 
pom- some of it over the meat and send the remainder to the table in a tureen, 
to be served with the mutton when carved. Garnish the dish around the leg 
with potatoes cut in the shape of olives and fried a hght brown in butter. 

LEG OF MUTTON A LA VENISON. 
Remove all the rough fat from the mutton and lay it in a deep earthen dish; 
i-ub into it thoroughly the following: One tablespoonful of salt, one each of 
celery-salt, brown suga,r, black pepper, English mustard, allspice, and some sweet 
herbs, all powdered and mixed; after which pour over it slowly a teacup of good 
^-inegar, cover tightly, and set in a cool place four or five days, turning it aiwl 



t22 MEATS. 

basting often with the Uquid each day. To cook, put in a kettle a quart of boil- 
ing water, place over it an inverted shallow pan, and on it lay the meat just as 
removed from the pickle; cover the kettle tightly and stew four hours. Do not 
let the water touch the meat. Add a cup of hot water to. the pickle remaining 
and baste with it. When done, thicken the hquid with flour and strain through 
a fine sieve, to serve with the meat; also a rehsh of currant jelly, the same as for 
venison. 

This is a fine dish when the directions are faithfully followed.) 

STEAMED LEG OF MUTTON. 
Wash and put the leg in a steamer and cook it until tender, then place in a 
roasting pan, salt and dredge well with flour and set in a hot oven until nicely 
browned; the water that remains in the bottom of the steamer may be used for 
soup. Serve with currant jelly. 

HASHED MUTTON. 

Cut into small "pieces the lean of some cold mutton that has been underdone, 
and season it with /epper and salt. Take the bones and other trimmings, put 
them into a sauce-pan with as much water as will cover them, and some sUced 
onions, and let them stew till you have drawn from them a good gravy. Having 
skimmed it well, strain the gravy into a stew-pan, and put the mutton into it. 
Have ready-boiled some carrots, turnips, potatoes and onions. Slice them and 
add to the meat and gravy. Set the pan on the fire and let it simmer till the 
meat is warmed through, but do not allow it to boil, as it has been once cooked 
already. Cover the bottom of a dish with shoes of buttered toast. Lay the meat 
and vegetables upon it, and pour over them the gravy. 

Tomatoes vnll be found an improvement. 

If green peas or Lima beans are in season, you may boil them and put them 
to the hashed mutton, leaving out the other vegetables, or serving them up 
separately. 

BROILED MUTTON CHOPS. 
Loin of mutton, pepper and salt, a small piece of butter. Cut the chops from 
a tenderloin of mutton, remove a portion of the fat, and trim them into a nice 
shape; shghtly beat and level them; place the gridiron over a bright, clear fire, 
rub the bars with a httle fat, and lay on the chops. While broiling frequently 
turn them, and in about eight minutes they will be done. Season with pepper 
and salt, dish them on a very hot dish, rub a small piece of butter on each chop, 
and serve very hot and expeditiously. Nice with tomato sauce poured over them. 



MEATS. ,2 J 

FRIED MUTTON CHOPS. No. i. 

Put into a frying-pan a tablespoonful of cold lard and butter mixed ; have 
some fine mutton chops without much fat; trim off the skin. Dip each in wheat 
flour, or rolled cracker, and beaten egg, then lay them into the hot grease, 
sprinkle with salt and pepper, fry on both sides a fine brown. When done, take 
them up and place on a hot dish. If you wish a made gravy, turn off the super- 
fluous grease, if any, stir into the hot gravy remaining a heaping spoonful of 
flour, stirring it until smooth and free from lumps, then turn into that a cup of 
cold water or milk; season with pepper and salt, let it boil up thick. You can 
serve it in a separate dish or pour it over the chops. Tomato sauce is con- 
eidered fine, turned over a dish of hot fried or broiled chops. 

FRIED MUTTON CHOPS. No. 2. 

Prepare the chops by trimming off" all extra fat and skin, season them with 
salt and pepper; dip each chop in beaten e^^, then in rolled cracker or bread- 
crumbs ; dip again in the eg^ and crumbs, and so on until they are well coated 
with the crumbs. Have ready a deep spider containing a pound or more of lard, 
hot enough to fry crullers. Drop into this hot lard the chops, frying only a few 
at one time, as too many cool the fat. Fry them brown, and serve up hot and 
dry, on a warm platter. 

MUTTON CUTLETS. (Baked). 
Prepare them the same as for frying, lay them in a dripping pan with a very 
little water at the bottom. Bake quickly, and baste often with butter and water. 
Make a little brown gravy and turn over them when they are served. 

BAKED MUTTON CHOPS AND POTATOES. 

Wash and peel some good potatoes and cut them into sbces the thickness ot 
a penny- piece. The quantity of potatoes must, of course, be decided according 
to the number of persons to whom they have to be served; but it is a safe plan 
to allow two, or even three, potatoes for each person. After the potatoes are 
sliced, wash them in two or three waters, to thoroughly cleanse them; then 
arrange them neatly (in layers) in a brown stone dish proper for baking purposes. 
Sprinkle a little salt and pepper between each layer, and add a sufficient quantity 
of cold water to prevent -their burning. Place the dish in a very hot oven — on 
the top shelf — so as to brown the potatoes in a few minutes. Have ready some 
nice loin chops (say one for each person); trim off most of the fat; make them 
into a neat round shape by putting a small skewer through each. When the 



124 MEATS. 

potatoes are nicely browned, remove the dish from the oven, and place the chops 
on the top. Add a httle more salt and pepper, and water if required, and return 
the dish to a cooler part of the oven, where it may be allowed to remain until 
sufficiently cooked, which will be in about three-quarters of an hour. When the 
upper sides of the chops are a nice crisp brown, turn them over so as to brown 
the other side also. If, in the cooking, the potatoes appear to be getting too dry, 
a httle more water may be gently poured in at one corner of the dish, only care 
must be taken to see that the water is hot this time — not cold, .as at first. The 
dish in which the chops and potatoes are baked must be as neat-looking as possi- 
ble, as it has to be sent to the table; turning the potatoes out would, of course, 
spoil their appearance. Those who have never tasted this dish have no idea 
how dehghtful it is. While the chops are baking the gravy drips from them 
among the potatoes, rendering the whole most delicious. 

MUTTONETTES. 

Cut from a leg of mutton sUces about half an inch thick. On each slice lay a 
spoonful of stuffing made with bread-crumbs, beaten egg, butter, salt, pepper, 
sage and summer savory. Eoll up the sUces, pinning with httle skewers or 
small wooden toothpicks to keep the dressing in. Put a little butter and water 
in a baking-pan with the muttonettes, and cook in hot oven three-quarters of an 
hour. Baste often, and when done thicken the gravy, pour over the meat, 
garnish with parsley, and serve on hot platter. 

IRISH STEW. 
Time about two hours. Two and a half pounds of chops, eight potatoes, four 
turnips, four small onions, nearly a quart of water. Take some chops from loin 
of mutton, place them in stew-pan in alternate layers of shced potatoes and 
chops; add turnips and onions cut into pieces, pour in nearly a quart of cold 
water; cover stew-pan closely, let it stew gently till vegetables are ready to mash 
and the greater part of the gravy is absorbed; then place in a dish; serve it up hot. 

MUTTON PUDDING. 
Line a two-quart pudding-basin wdth some beef suet paste; fiU the lining with 
thick mutton cutlets, slightly trimmed, or, if preferred, with steaks cut from the 
leg; season with pepper and salt, some pai-sley, a httle thyme and two shoes of 
onion chopped fine, and between each layer of meat, put some shoes of potatoes. 
When the pudding is filled, wet the edges of the paste around the top of tht 
basin, and cover with a piece of paste rolled out the size of the basin. Faster 
down the edge by bearing all around with the thumb; and then with the thiunl: 



MEA TS. 1 25 

and forefinger twist the edges of the paste over and over so as. to give it a corded 
appearance. This pudding can be set in a steamer and steamed, or boiled. The 
time required for cooking is about three hours. When done, turn it out care- 
fully on a platter and serve with a rich gravy under it. 
This is a very good recipe for cooking small birds. 

SCRAMBLED MUTTON 

Two cups of chopped cold mutton, two tablespoonfuls of hot water, and a 
piece of butter as large as an Enghsh walnut. When the meat is hot, break in 
three eggs, and constantly stir imtil the eggs begin to stiffen. Season with 
pepper and salt 

SCALLOPED MUTTON AND TOMATOES. 

Over the bottom of an earthen baking-dish place a layer of bread-crumbs, 
and over it alternate layers of cold roast mutton cut in thin shces, and tomatoes 
peeled and sUced; season each with salt, pepper and bits of butter, as laid in. 
The top layer- should be of tomatoes, spread over with bread-crumbs. Bake 
three-quarters of an hour, and serve immediately. 

LAMB SWEETBREADS AND TOMATO SAUCE. 
Lamb sweetbreads are not always procurable, but a stroll through the markets 
occasionally reveals a small lot of them, which can invariably be had at a low 
price, owing to their excellence being recognized by but few buyers. Wash them 
well in salted -water and parboil fifteen minutes; when cool, trim neatly and put 
them in a pan with just butter enough to prevent their bmning; toss them about 
until a dehcate color; season vdth salt and pepper and serve, surrounded with 
tomato sauce. See Sauces. 

ROAST QUARTER OF LAMB 

ProciU'e a nice hind-quarter, remove some of the fat that is around the kidney, 
skewer the lower joint up to the fillet, place it in a moderate oven, let it heat 
through slowly, then dredge it with salt and flour; quicken the fire, put half a 
pint of water into the dripping-pan, with a teaspoonf ul of salt. With this hquor 
baste the meat occasionally; serve with lettuce, green peas, and mint sauce. 

A quarter of lamb weighing seven or eight poiuids will require two hours to 
roast. 

A breast of lamb roasted is very sweet, and is considered by many as prefer- 
able to hind-quarter. It requires nearly as long a time to roast as the quarter, 
and should be served in the same manner. 

Make the gravy from the drippings, thickened with flour. 



1 26 MEA rs. 

The mint sauce is made as follows: Take fresh, young spearmint leaves 
stripped from stems; wash and drain them or dry on a cloth, chop very fine, put 
in a gravy tureen, and to three tablespoonfuls of mint add two of fiiiely pow- 
dered cut-loaf sugar; mix, and let it stand a few minutes; then pour over it six 
tablespoonfuls good cider or white-wine vinegar. The sauce should be made 
some time before dinner, so that the flavor of the mint may be well extracted. 

TO BROIL THE FORE-QUARTER OF LAMB. 

Take off the shoulder and lay it upon the gridiron with the breast; cut in two 
parts, to facilitate its cooking; put a tin sheet on top of the meat, and a weight 
upon that; turn the meat around frequently to prevent its buiuiug; turn over 
as soon as cooked on one side; renew the coaLs occasionally, that all parts may 
cook alike; when done, season with butter, pepper, and salt,— exactly Uke beef- 
steak. It takes some time to broil it well; but when done it will be found to be 
equal to broiled chicken, the flavor beuig more delicate than when cooked other- 
wise. Serve with cream sauce, made as follows: Heat a tablespoonful of butter 
in a sauce-pan, add a teaspoonful of flour and stir until perfectly smooth; then 
add, slowly stirring in, a cup of cold milk; let it boil up once, and season to taste 
with salt and pepper and a teaspoonful of finely chopped fresh parsley. Servo 
in a gravy boat, all hot. 

LAMB STEW. 

Cut up the lamb into small pieces (after removing all the fat), say about two 
inches square. Wash it weU and put it over the fire, with just enough cold 
water to cover it well, and let it heat gradually. It should stew gently until it 
is partly done; then add a few thih sh'ces of salt pork, one or two onions sUced 
up fine, some pepper and salt if needed, and two or three raw potatoes cut up 
into inch pieces. Cover it closely and stew until the meat is tender. Drop in a 
few made dumplings, made like short biscuit, cut out very small. Cook fifteen 
minutes longer. Thicken the gravy with a little flour moistened with milk. 
Serve. 

PRESSED LAMB. 

The meat, either shoulder or leg, should be put to boil in the morning with 
water just enough to cover it; when tender, season with salt and pepper, then 
keep it over the fire until very lender and the juice nearly boiled out. Remove 
it from the fire-place in a wooden chopping-bowl, season more if necessary, 
chop it up like hash. Place it in a bread-pan, press out all the juice, and put it 
in a cool place to harden. The pressing is generally done by placing a dish over 
the meat and putting a flat-iron upon that. Nice cut up cold into thin slices, and 



MEATS. 127 

the broth left from the meat would make a nice soup served with it, adding 
vegetables and spices. 

CROQUETTES OF ODDS AND ENDS. 

These are made of any scraps or bits of good food that happen to be left 
from one or more meals, and in such small quantities that they cannot bo 
warmed up separately. As, for example, a couple of spoonfuls of frizzled beef 
and cream, the lean meat of one mutton chop, one spoonful of minced beef, two 
cold hard-boiled eggs, a little cold chopped potato, a httle mashed potato, a 
chick's leg, aU the gristle and hard outside taken from the meat. These things 
well chopped and seasoned, mixed with one raw egg, a little flour and butter, 
and boiling water; then made into round cakes, thick hke fish-balls, and browned 
well with butter in a frying-pan or on a giiddle. 

Scraps of hash, cold rice, boUed oatmeal left from breakfast, every kmd of 
fresh meat, bits of salt tongue, bacon, pork or ham, bits of poultry, and cnunbs 
of bread, may be used. They should be put together with care, so as not to have' 
them too dry to be palatable, or too moist to cook in shape. Most housekeepers 
would be surprised at the result, making an addition to the breakfast or limch 
table. Serve on small squares of buttered toast, and with cold celery if in season. 



Ipork. 



The best parts and those usually used for roasting are the loin, the leg, the 
shoulder, the spare-rib and chine. The hams, shoulders and middlings are 
usually salted, pickled and smoked. Pork requires more thorough cooking than 
most meats; if the least imderdone it is unwholesome. 

To choose pork: if the rind is thick and tough, and cannot be easily impressed 
with the finger, it is old; when fresh, it will look cool and smooth, and only 
com -fed pork is good J swill or stiU-fed pork is unfit to cure. Fresh pork is in 
season from October to April. When dressing or stuffing is used, there are more 
or less herbs used for seasoning, — sage, summer savorjv thyme, and sweet mar- 
joram; these can be found (in the dried, pulverized form, put up in small, light 
packages) at most of the best druggists; stiU those raised and gathered at home 
are considered more fresh. 

ROAST PIG. 

Prepare your di-essing as for "Dressing for Fowls," adding half an onion, 
chopped fine; set it inside. Take a young pig about six weeks old^ wash it 



128 MEATS. 

thoroughly inside and outside, and in another water put a teaspoonful of baking 
soda, and rinse out the inside again; wipe it dry with a fresh towel, salt tht 
inside and stuff it with the prepared dressing; making it full and plump, giving 
it its original size and shape. Sew it up, place it in a kneeling posture in the 
dripping-pan, tying the legs in proper position. Pour a little hot salted watei 
into the dripping-pan, baste with butter and water a few times as the pig warms 
afterwards with giavy from the diipping-pan. When it begins to smoke all ovei 
rub it often with a rag dipped in melted butter. This will keep the skin frora 
cracking and it still will be crisp. It wiU take fi'om two to three hours to 
roast. Make the gravy by skimming off most of the grease; stir into that 
remaining in the pan a good tablespoon of flour, turn in water to make it the 
right consistency, season with pepper and let all boil up once. Strain, and if 
you like wine in it, add half a glass; turn it into a gravy boat. Place the pig 
upon a large, hot platter, surrounded with parsley or celery tops; place a green 
jvreath around the neck, and a sprig of celery in its mouth. In carving, cut off 
its head first; spUt down the back, take off its hams and shoulders, and separate 
the ribs. 

ROAST LOIN OF PORK. 

Score the skin in strips about a quarter of an inch apart; place it in a dripping- 
pan with a very little water under it; cook it moderately at first, as a high heat 
hardens the rind before the meat is heated through. K it is very lean, it should 
be rubbed with fresh lard or butter when put into the pan. A stuffing might 
be made of bread crumbs, chopped sage and onions, pepper and salt, and baked 
separately on a pie dish; this method is better than putting it in the meat, aa 
many persons have a great aversion to its flavor. A loin weighing about six 
pounds wiU roast in two hours; allow more time if it should be very fat. Make 
a gravy with flour stirred into the pork drippings. Serve with apple sauce and 
pickles. 

ROAST LEG OF PORK. 

Choose a small leg of fine young pork; cut a slit in the knuckle with a sharp 
knife, and fill the space with sage and onion chopped, and a httle pepper and 
salt. When half done, score the skin in sUces, but do not cut deeper than the 
outer rind. Apple sauce and potatoes should be served with it. The gravy is to 
be made the same way as for beef roast, by turning off all the superfluous fat 
and adding a spoonful of flour stirred with a httle water; add water to make the 
right consistency. Serve in a gravy boat. 



MEATS. 129 

BOILED LEG OF PORK. 

For boiling, choose a small, compact,^ well-filled leg, and rub it "w^ell with salt; 
let it remain in pickle for a week or ten days, turning and rubbing it every day. 
An hour before dressing it put it into cold water for an hour, which improves 
the color. If the pork is purchased ready salted, ascertain how long the meat 
has been in pickle, and soak it accordingly. Put it into a boiling-pot, with suffi- 
cient cold water to cover it; let it gradually come to a boil, and remove the scum 
as it rises. Simmer it very gently until tender, and da not allow it to boil fast, 
or the knuckle will fall to pieces before the naiddle of the leg is done. Carrots, 
turnips or parsnips may be boiled with the pork, some of which should be laid 
around the dish as ar garnish. 

Time. — A leg of pork weighing eight pounds, three hours after the water 
boils, and to be simmered very gently. 

FRESH PORK POT-PIE. 
Boil a spare-Tib, after removing all the fat and cracking the bones, until 
tender; remove the scum as it rises, and when tender season with salt and 
pepper; half an hour before time for serving the dinner thicken the gravy with 
a, little flour. Have ready another kettle, into which remove all the bones and 
most of the gravy, leaving only sufficient to cover the pot half an inch above the 
rim that rests on the stove; put in the crust, cover tight, and boil steadily forty-five 
minutes. To prepare the crust, work into light dough a sinall bit of butter, 
roll it out thin, cut it in small square cakes, and lay them on the moulding-board 
imtil very hght. No steam should possibly escape while the crust is cooking, and 
by no means aUow the pot to cease boiling. 

ROAST SPARE-RIB. 
Trim off the rough ends neatly, crack the ribs across the middle, rub with 
salt and sprinkle with pepper, fold over, stuff with turkey dressing, sew up 
tightly, place in a dripping-pan -tvith a pint of water, baste frequently, turning 
over once so as to bake both sides equally until a rich brown. 

PORK TENDERLOINS. 

The tenderloins are unlike any other part of the pork in flavor. They may 
be either fried or broUed; the latter being dryer, require to be well -buttered before 
serving, which should be done on a hot platter before the butter becomes oily. 
Fry them in a little lard, turning ihem to have them cooked through; when 
done, remove, and keep hot while making a gravy by dredging a httle flour into 



13© MEATS. 

the hot fat; if not enough add a little butter or lard, stir until browned, and add 
a httle milk or cream, stir briskly, and pour over the dish. A little Worcester- 
shire sauce may be added to the gravy if desired. 

PORK CUTLETS. 

Out them from the leg, and remove the skin; trim them and beat them, and 
sprinkle on salt and pepper. Prepare some beaten egg in a pan; and on a fiat 
dish a mixtiu'e of bread-crumbs, minced onion and sage. Put some lard or drip- 
pings into a frying pan over the fire, and when it boils put in the cutlets; 
having dipped every one first in the egg, and then in the seasoning. Fry them 
twenty or thirty minutes, turning them often. After you have taken them out 
of the frying-pan, skim the gravy, dredge in a httle flour, give it one boil, and 
then pour it on the dish round the cutlets. 

Have apple sauce to eat with them. 

Pork cutlets prepared in this manner may be stewed instead of being fried. 
Add to them a little water, and stew them slowly till thoroughly done, keeping 
them closely covered, except when you remove the Ud to skim them. 

PORK CHOPS AND FRIED APPLES. 

Season the chops with salt and pepper and a little powdered sage; dip them 
into bread crumbs. Fry about twenty minutes, or until they are done. Put 
them on a hot dish; pour off part of the gravy into another pan to make a 
gravy to serve with them, if you choose. Then fry apples which you have sliced 
about two-thirds of an inch thick, cutting them around the apple so that the 
core is in the centre of each piece; then cut out the core. When they are 
browned on one side and partly cooked, turn them carefully with a pan-cake- 
turner, and finish cooking: dish around the chops or on a separate dish. 

FRIED PORK CHOPS. 

Fry them the same as mutton chops. If a sausage flavor is hked, sprinkle 
over them a little powdered sage or summer savoiy, pepper and salt, and if a 
gravy is hked, skim off some of the fat in the pan and stir in a spoonful of flour; 
stir it until free from lumps, then season with pepper and salt and turn in;.a pint 
of sweet milk. Boil up and serve in a gravy boat. ^ 

PORK PIE. 
Make a good plain paste. Take from two and a half to three pounds of the 
thick ends of a loin of pork, with very httle fat on it; cut into very thin slices 
three inches long by two inches wide; put a layer at the bottom of a pie-dish. 



MEATS. 131 

Wash and chop finely a handful of paisley, also an onion. Sprinkle a small 
portion of these over the pork, and a little pepper and salt. Add another layer 
of pork, and over that some more of the seasoning, only be sparing of the nut- 
meg. Continue this till the dish is full. Now pour into the dish a cupful of 
stock or water, and a spoonful or two of catsup. Put a little paste around the 
edge of the dish; put on the cover, and place the pie in a rather hot oven. When 
the paste has risen and begins to take color, place the pie at the bottom of the 
oven, with some paper over it, as it will require to be baked at least two houi^. 
Some prefer to cook the meat until partly done, before putting into the crust. 

—Palmer House, Cidcago. 

PORK POT-PIE. 

Take pieces of ribs of lean salt pork, also a slice or two of the fat of salt pork; 
scald it well with hot water so as to wash out the briny taste. Put it into a 
kettle and cover it with cold water, enough for the required want. Cover it and 
boil an hour, season Avith peppoi'; then add half a dozen potatoes cut into 
quarters. When it all commences to boil again, drop in dumplings made from 
this recipe: 

One pint of sour or buttermilk, two eggs, well beaten, a teaspoonful of salt, 
a level teaspoonful of soda; dissolve in a spoonful of water as much flour as will 
make a very stiff batter. Drop this into the kettle or broth by spoonfuls, and 
cook forty minutes, closely covered. 

PORK AND BEANS. (Baked). 
Take two quarts of white beans, pick them over the night before, put to soak 
in cold water; in the morning put them in fresh water and let fhem scald, then 
turn off the water and put on more, hot; put to cook with them a piece of salt 
pork, gashed, as much as would make five or six shoes; boil slowly till soft (not 
mashed), then add a tablespoonful of molasses, half a teaspoonful of soda, stir 
in wen, put in a deep pan, and bake one hour and a half. K you do not like to 
use pork, salt the beans when boiling, and add a lump of butter when preparing 
them for the oven. 

BOSTON PORK AND BEANS. 
Pick over carefully a quart of small, white beans; let them soak over night 
in cold water; in the morning wash and drain in another water. Put on to boil 
in plenty of cold water with a piece of soda the size of a bean; let them come to 
a boil, then drain again, cover with water once more, and boil them fifteen 
minutes, or until the skin of the beans will crack when taken out and blown 



132 MEATS. 

Upon. Drain the beans again, put them into an earthen pot, adding a table- 
spoonful of salt; cover with hot water, place in the centre of a pound of .^alt 
pork, first scalding it with hot water, and scoring the rind across the top, a 
quarter of an inch apart to indicate where the sUcesare to be cut. Place the 
pot in the oven, and hake six hours or longer. Keep the oven a moderate heat; 
add hot water from the tea-kettle as needed, on account of evaporation, to keep 
the beans moist. When the meat becomes crisp and looks cooked, remove it, as 
too long baking the pork destroys its sohdity. 

FRIED SALT PORK. 
Cut in thin sUces, and freshen in cold water, roU in flour, and fry crisp. If 
required quickly, pour boiling water over the slices, let stand a few minutes, 
drain and roU in floui' as before; drain off most of the grease from the frying- 
pan; stir in while hot one or two tablespoonfuls of flour, about half a pint of 
milk, a Uttle pepper,.and salt if over freshened; let it boil, and pour into a gravy 
dish. A teaspoonful of finely-chopped parsley vdU add pleasantly to the appear- 
ance of the gravy. 

GRILLED SALT PORK. 
Take quite thin slices of the thick part of side pork, of a clear white, and 
thinly streaked with lean; hold one on a toasting fork before a brisk fire to grill; 
have at hand a dish of cold water, in which immerse it frequently while cook- 
ing, to remove the superfluous fat and render it more dehcate. Put each slice 
as cooked in a warm covered pan; when all are done, serve hot. 

FRIED HAM AND EGGS. 

Cut shoes of ham quite thin, cut off the rind or skin, put them. into a hot 
frying-pan, turning them often until crisp, taking care ^ot to burn the shoes; 
three minutes wiU cook them well. Dish them on a hot platter; then turn off 
the top of the grease, rinse out the pan, and put back the clear grease to fry the 
eggs. Break the eggs separately in a saucer, that in case a bad one should be 
among them it may not mix with the rest. Shp each egg gently into the frying- 
pan. Do not turn them while they are frying, but keep pouring some of the 
hot lard over them with a kitchen spoon; this will do them sufficiently on the 
upper side. They will be done enough in about three minutes; the white must 
retain its transparency so that the yolk vdU be seen through it. When done, 
take them up with a tin shoe, drain off the lard, and if any part of the white is 
discolored or ragged, trim it off. Lay a fried egg upon each sUce of the ham, 
and send to table hot. 



MEATS. (33 

COLD BACON AND EGGS. 

An economical way of using bacon and eggs that have been left from a 
previous meal is to put them in a wooden bowl and chop them quite fine, add- 
ing a httle mashed or cold chopped potato, and a httle bacon gravy, if any was 
left. Mix and mould it into little balls, roll in raw egg and cracker-crumbs, and 
fry in a spider the same as frying eggs; fry a light brown on both sides. Serve 
hot. Very appetizing. 

SCRAPPEL. 

Scrappel is a most palatable dish. Take the head, heart and any lean scraps 
of pork, and boil imtil the flesh slips easily from the bones. Remove the fat, 
gristle andbones, then chop fine. Set the hquor in which the meat was boiled 
aside until cold, take the cake of fat from the surface and return to the fire. 
When it boils, put in the chopped meat and season well with pepper and salt. 
Let it boil again, then thicken with corn-meal as you would in making Ordinary 
corn-meal mush, by letting it shp through the fingers slowly to prevent lumps. 
Cook an hour, stirring constantly at first, afterwards puttmg back on the range 
in a position to boil gently. When done, pour into a long, square pan, not too 
deep, and mold. In cold weather this can be kept several weeks. Cut into 
sUces when cold, and fried brown, as you do mush, is a cheap and dehcious 
breakfast dish. 

TO BAKE A HAM. (Corned.) 

Take a medium-sized^ham and place it to soak for ten or twelve hours. Then 
cut away the rusty part from underneath, wipe it dry, and cover it rather thickly 
over with a paste made of flour and water. Put it into an earthen dish, and set 
it in a moderately heated oven; When done, take off the crust carefully, and 
peel oft" the skin, put a frill of cut paper around the knuckle, and raspings of 
bread over the fat of the ham, or serve it glazed and garnished with cut 
vegetables. It wiU take about four or five horns to bake it. 

CookedJn this way the flavor is much finer than when boiled. 

PIGS* FEET PICKLED. 

Take twelve pigs' feet, scrape and wash them clean, put them into a sauce- 
pan with enough hot (not boiling) water to cover them. When partly done, salt 
. them. It requires four to five hours to boil them soft. Pack them in a stone 
crock, and pour over them spiced vinegar made hot. They will be ready to use 
in a day or two. K you wish them for breakfast, spht them, makela batter of 
two eggs, a cup of milk, salt^ a teaspoonf ul of butter, with flour enough to make 



134 MEATS. 

a thick batter; dip each piecei in this and fry in hot lard. Or, dip them in beaten 
egg and flour and fry. Souse is good eaten cold or warm. 

BOILED HAM. 

First remove all dust and mold, by wiping with a coarse cloth; soak it for an 
hour in cold water, then wash it thoroughly. Cut with a sharp knife the 
hardened surface from the base and butt of the ham. Place it pver the fire in 
cold water, and let it come to a moderate boil, keeping it steadily at this point,, 
allowing it to cook twenty minutes for every pound of meat. A ham weighing 
twelve poimds will require four hours to cook properly, as underdone ham is very 
unwholesome. When the ham is to be served hot, remove the skin by peeling 
it off, place it on a platter, the fat side up, and dot the surface with spots of 
black pepper. Stick in also some whole cloves. 

If the ham is to be served cold, allow it to remain in the pot until the water 
in which it was cooked becomes cold. This makes it more juicy. Serve it in 
the same manner as when served hot. 

BROILED HAM. 

Cut your ham into thin slices, which should be a little less than one quarter 
of an inch thick. Trim very closely the skin frDm the upper side of each slice, 
and also trim off the outer edge where the smoke has hardened the meat. If the 
ham is very salt lay it in cold water for one hour before cooking, then wipe with 
a dry cloth. Never soak ham in tepid or hot water, as it will toughen the meat. 

Broil over a brisk fire, timiing the slices constantly. It will require about 
five minutes, and should be served the last thing directly from the gridiron, 
placed on a warm platter, with a little butter and a sprinkle of pepper on the top 
of each slice. If ham or bacon* is allowed to stand by the fire after it has been. 
broiled or fried, it will speedily toughen, losing all its grateful juices. 

Cold boiled ham is very nice for broiling, and many prefer it to using the raw- 
ham. 

POTTED HAM. 

To two pounds of lean ham allow one pound of fat, two teaspoonfuls of 
powdered mace, half a nutmeg, grated, rather more than half a teaspoonful of 
cayenne. 

Mode. — Mince the ham, fat and lean together, in the above proportion, and 
pound it well in a mortar, seasoning it with cayenne pepper, pounded mace and 
nutmeg; put the mixture into a deep baking dish, and bake for half an hour; 
then press it well into a stone jar, fill up thd jar with clarified lard, cover it 



MEATS. r35 

closely, and paste over it a piece of thick paper. If well seasoned, it will keep a 
long time in winter, and will be found very convenient for sandwiches, etc. 

BOLOGNA SAUSAGE. (Cooked.) 

Two pounds of lean pork, two pounds of lean veal, two pounds of fresh 
lean beef, two pounds of fat salt pork, one pound beef suet, ten tablespoonfuls of 
powdered sage, one ounce each of parsley, savory, marjoram and thyme, mixed. 
Two teaspoonfuls of cayenne pepper, the same of black, one grated nutmeg, one 
teaspoonful of cloves, one minced onion, salt to taste. Chop or grind the meat 
and suet; season, and stuff into beef skins; tie these up, prick each in several 
places to allow the escape of steam; put into hot, not boiling water, and heat 
graduaUy to the boiling point. Cook slowly for one hour; take out the skins 
and lay them to dry in the sun, upon clean, sweet straw or hay. Rub the out- 
side of the skins with oil or melted butter, and place in a cool, dry cellar. If you 
wish to keep them more than a week, rub ginger or pepper on the outside, then 
wash it off before using. This is eaten without f m-ther cooking. Cut in round 
slices and lay sliced lemon around the edge of the dish, as many like to squeeze 
a few drops upon the sausage before eating. These are very nice smoked like 
hams. 

COUNTRY PORK SAUSAGES. 

bix pounds lean fresh pork, three pounds of chme fat, three tablespoonfuls of 

salt, two of black pepper, four tablespoonfuls of pounded and sifted sage, two 

of summer savory. Chop the lean and fat pork finely, mix the seasoning in with 

your hands, taste to see that it has the light flavor, then put them into cases, 

either the cleaned intestines of the hog, or make long, narrow bags of stout 

muslin, large enougn to contain each enough sausage for a family dish. Fill 

these with the meat, dip in melted lard, and hang them in a cool, diy dark place. 

Some prefer to pack the meat in jars, pouring melted lard over it, covering the 

top, to be taken out as wanted and madfe into small round cakes with the 

hands, then fried brown. Many like spices added to the seafiotung — cloves, 

mace and nutmeg. This is a matter of taste. 

— Marion Harland. 

TO FRY SAUSAGES. 

Put a small piece of lard or butter into the frying-pan. Piick the sausages 

with a fork, lay them in the melted grease, keep moving them about, turning 

them frequently to prevent bursting; in ten or twelve minutes they will be 

sufficiently Isrowned and cooked. Another sure way to prevent the cases from 

bursting is to cover them with cold water and let it come to the boiling point; turn 



136 MEATS. 

oflf the water and fry them. Sausages are nicely cooked by putting them in a 
baking-pan and browning them in the oven, turning them once or twice. In 
this way you avoid all smoke and disagreeable odor. A pound will cook brown 
in ten minutes in a hot oven. 

HEAD CHEESE. 
Boil the forehead, ears and feet, and nice scraps trimmed from the hams of a 
fresh pig, until the meat will almost drop from the bones. Then separate the 
meat from the bones, put it in a large chopping-bowl, and season with pepper, 
salt, sage and summer savory. Chop it rather coarsely; put it back into the 
Bame kettle it was boiled in, with just enough of the hquor in which it was boiled 
to prevent its burning; warm it through thoroughly, mixing it well together. 
Now pour it into a strong muslin bag, press the bag between two flat surfaces, 
with a heavy weight on top; when cold and solid it can be cut in slices. Good 
cold, or warmed up in vinegar. 

TO CURE HAMS AND BACON. (A Prize Recipe.) 

For each hundred pounds of hams, make a pickle of ten pounds of salt, two 
pounds of brown sugar, two ounces of saltpetre, and one ounce of red pepper, 
and from four to four and a half gallons of water, or just enough to cover the 
hams, after being packed in a water-tight vessel, or enough salt to make a brine 
to float a fresh egg high enough, that is to say, out of water. First rub the 
hams with common salt, and lay them into a tub. Take the above ingredients, 
put them into a vessel over the fire, and heat it hot, stirring it frequently; 
remove all the scum, allow it to boil ten minutes, let it cool and pour over the 
meat. After laying in this brine five or six weeks, take out, drain and wipe, 
and smoke from two to three weeks. Small pieces of bacon may remain in 
this pickle two weeks, which would be sufficient. 

TO SMOKE HAMS AND FISH AT HOME. 

Take an old hogshead, stop up all the crevices, and fix a place to put a cross- 
stick near the bottom, to hang the articlec to be smoked on. . Next, in the side, 
cut a hole near the top, to introduce an iron pan filled with hickory wood sawdust 
and small pieces of green wood. Having turned the hoshead upside dpwn, hang 
the articles upon the cross-stick, introduce the iron pan in the opening, and place 
a piece of red-hot iron in the pan, cover it with sawdust, and all will be complete. 
Let a large ham remain ten days, and keep up a good smoke. The best way 
for keeping hams is to sew them in coarse cloths, whitewashed on the outside. 



MEATS. 137 

TO CURE ENGLISH BACON. 

This process is called the " dry cure, " and is considered far preferable to the 
New England or Yankee style of putting prepared brine or pickle over the meat. 
First the hog should not be too large or too fat, weighing not over two hundred 
pounds; then after it is dressed and cooled cut it up into proper pieces; allow to 
every hundred pounds a mixture of four quarts of common salt, one quarter of 
a pound of saltpetre and four pounds of sugar. Rub this preparation thoroughly 
over and ir^to each piece, then place them into a tight tub or suitable cask; there 
■will a brine form of itself, from the juices of the meat, enough at least to baste 
i\ "with, v/hich should be done two or three times a week; turning each piece 
overy time. 

In smoking this beicon, the sweetest flavor is* derived from black birch chips, 

but if these are not to be had, the next best wood is hickory; the smoking with 

corn-cobs imparts a rank flavor to this bacon, which is very distasteful to English 

people visiting this country. It requires three weeks or a month to'sinoke this 

bacon -properly, 

— Berkshire Ricipe. 

TO TRY OUT LARD. 

Skin the leaf lard carefully, cut it into small pieces, and put it into a kettle 
or sauce- pan; pour in a cupful of water to prevent burning; set it over the fire 
where it will melt slowly. Stir it frequently and let it simmer imtil nothing 
remains but brown scrap&. Remove the scraps with a perforated skimmer, 
throw in a little salt to settle the fat, and, when clear, strain through a coarse 
cloth into jare. Remember to watch it constantly, stirring it from the bottom 
until the salt is thrown in to settle it; then set it back on the range until clear. 
If it scorches it gives it a very bad flavor. 



Sauces anb dressings. 



DRAWN BUTTER 

Melted butter is the foundation of most of the comnion sauces. Have a 
covered sauce-pan for this purpose. One lined with porcelain will be best. Take 
a quarter of a pound of the best fresh butter, cut it up, aud mix with it about 
one tablespoonful of flour. When it is thoroughly inixed, put it into the sauce- 
pan^ and add to it half a teacupful of hot water. Cover the sauce-pan and set it 
in a large tin pan of boiling water. Shake it round continually (always moving 
it the same way) till it is entirely melted and begins to simmer. Then let it rest 
till it boils up. 

If you set it on too hot a fire, it will be oily. 

If the butter and floui* are not well mixed, it will be lumpy. 

If you put too much water, it ^viU be tliin and poor. All these defects are to 
be carefully avoided. 

In melting butter for sweet or pudding sauce, you may use ini|lc instead of 
water 

TARTARE SAUCE. 

The raw yolks of two eggs, half a teacupful of pure olive oil, three tablespoon, 
fnlfl of vinegar, one of made mustard, one teaspoonful of sugar, a quarter of a tea- 
spoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt, one of onion juice, one tablespoonful 
of ciiopped capers, one of chopped cucumber pickle. Put together the same as 
mayonnaise dressing, adding«the chopped ingredients the last thing. 

This sauce is good for fried or boildi^fish, boiled tongue, fish salad, and may 
be used with fried and broiled meats. ^^^ 

EGG SAUCE, OR W^TE SAUCE. 

Mix two tablespoonfuls of sifted flour with half a teacup of warm butter 
Place over the fire a sauce-pan coutaininga pint of sweet milk and a salt-spoon 
of salt, and a dash of white pepper; when it reaches the boiling point, add the 
butter aud floui-, stirring briskly until it thickens and becomes like cream. Have 
ready three cold, hard-boiled eggs, sUced and chopped, add them to the sauce; 
let them heat through thoroughly, and serve in a boat. If you have plenty of 
cream, use it and omit the batter. By omitting the eggs, you have the same as 
" White Sauce." 

OYSTER SAUCE. 

Take a pint of oysters and heat them in their own liquor long enough to 
come to a boil, or until they begin to ruffle. Skim out the oysters into a warm 



SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. 1 39 

dish, put into the liquor a teacup of milk or cream, two tablespooufuls of cold 
butter, a pinch of cayenne and salt; thicken with a tablespoonful of flour stirred 
to a paste, boU up and then add. the oysters. 

Oyster sauce is used for fish, boiled turkey chickens and boiled white meats 
of most kinds. 

LOBSTER SAUCE. 

Put the coral and spawn of a boiled lobster into a mortar, with a tablespoonful 
of butter; poimd it to a smooth mass, then rub it through a sieve; melt nearly a 
quarter of a pound of sweet butter, with a wineglass of water or vinegar; add 
a teaspoonful of made mustard, stir in the coral and spawn, and a little salt and 
pepper; stir it until it is smooth, and serve. Some of the meat of the lobster 
may be chopped fine, and stirred into it. 

SAUCE FOR SALMON AND OTHER FISH. 

One cupful of milk heated to a boil and thickened with a tablespoonful of 
com-starch previously wet up with cold water, the hquor from the salmon, one 
great spoonful of butter, one raw egg beaten light, the juice of half a lemon, 
mace and cayenne pepper to taste. Add the egg to thickened miUc when you 
have stiiTed in the butter and liquor; take from the fire, season and let it stand 
in hot water three minutes, covered. Lastly put in lemon juice and turn out 
immediately. Pour it all over and around the salmon. 

SAUCE FOR BOILED COD. 

To one gill of boiling water add as much milk; stir into this while boiling 
two tablespooufuls of butter gradually, oae tablespoonful of flour wet up with 
cold water; as it thickens, the chopped yolk of one boiled egg, and one raw egg 
beaten light. Take directly from the fire, season with pepper, salt, a little 
chopped parsley and the juice of one lemon, and set covered in boiling water 
(but not over fire) five minutes, stirring occasionally Pour part of the sauce 
over fish when dished; the rest in a boat. Serve mashed potatoes with it. 

FISH SAUCE. No. 2. 
Make a pint of drawn butter, add one tablespoonful of pepper sauce or Wor- 
cestershire sauce, a little salt and six hard-boiled eggs, chopped fine. Pour over 
boiled fish and garnish with sUced lemon. Very nice. 

FISH SAUCE. No. 3. 
Half a cupful of melted butter, half a cupful of vinegar, two tablespooufuls 
01 lomato catsup, salt, and a tablespoonful of made mustard. Boil ten minutes. 



I40 SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. 

CELERY SAUCE. 
Mix two tablespoonfuls of flour with half a teacupful of butter; have ready 
a pint of boiling milk; stir the flour and butter into the milk; take three heads 
of celery, cut into small bits, and boil for a few minutes in water, which strain 
off; put the celery into the melted butter, and keep it stirred over the fire for 
five or ten minutes. This is very nice with boiled fowl or turkey. Another 
way to make celery sauce is: Boil a head of celery until quite tender, then put 
it through a sieve; put the yolk of an egg in a basin, and beat it well with the 
strained juice of a lemon; add the celery and a couple of spoonful? o£ liquor in 
which the turkey was boiled, salt and pepper to taste. 

CAPER SAUCE. 
Chop the capers a very little, unless quite small; make half a pint of drawn 
butter, to which add the capers, with a large spoonful of the juice from the 
bottle in which they are sold; let it just simmer, and serve in a tureen. Nastur- 
tiums much resemble capers in taste, though larger, and may be used, and, in 
fact, are preferred by many. They are grown on a cUmbing vine, and are culti- 
vated for their blossom, and for pickling. When used as capers they should be 
chopped more. If neither capers nor nasturtiums are at hand, some pickles chop- 
ped up form a very good substitute in the sauce. 

BREAD SAUCE. 

One cup of stale bread-crumbs, one onion, two ounces of butter, pepper and 
salt, a little mace. Cut the onion fine, and boil it in milk till quite soft; then 
strain the milk on to the stale bread-crumbs, and let it stand an hour. Put it 
in a sauce-pan with the boiled onion, pepper, salt and mace. Give it a boil, and 
serve in sauce tureen. This sauce can also be used for grouse, and is very nice. 
Roast partridges are nice served with bread-crumbs, fried brown in butter, with 
cranberry or currant jelly laid beside them in the platter. 

TOMATO SAUCE. 

Take a quart can of tomatoes, put it over the fire in a stew-pan, put in one 
slice of onion, and two cloves, a Uttle pepper and salt; boil about twenty minutes; 
then remove from the fu-e and strain it through a sieve. Now melt in another 
pan an ounce of butter, and as it melts, sprinkle in a tablespoonful of flour; stir 
it until it browns and froths a little. Mix the tomato pulp with it, and it is 
ready for the table. 

Excellent for mutton chops, roast beef, etc. 



SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. I41 

ONION SAUCE. 
Work together until light £i heaping tablespoonf ul of flour, and half a cupful 
of butter, and gradually add two cups of boiling raUk; stir constantly until it 
comes to a boil; then stir into that four tender boUed onions that have been 
chopped fine. Salt and pepper to taste. Serve with boiled veal, poultry or 
mutton. 

CHILI SAUCE. 

Boil together two dozen ripe tomatoes, three small green peppers, or a half 
teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one onion cut fme, half a cup of sugar. Boil 
until thick; then add two cups of vinegar; then strain the whole, set back on the 
fire and add a tablespoonful of salt, and a teaspoonful each of ginger, allspice, 
cloves and cinnamon; boil all five minutes, remove and seal in glass bottles. 
This is very nice. 

MINT SAUCE. 

Take fresh young spearmint leaves, stripped from the stems; wash and drain 
them, or dry on a cloth. Chop very fine, put in a gravy boat, and to three 
tablespoonf uls of mint put two of white sugar; mix and let it stand a few 
minutes, then pour over it six tablespoonf uls of good cider or white- wine vinegar. 
The sauce should be made some time before it is to be used, so that the flavor of 
the mint may be weU extracted. Fine with roast lamb. 

^ SHARP BROWN SAUCE. 
Put in a sauce-pan one tablespoonful of chopped onion, three tablespoonfuls 
of good cider vinegar, six tablespoonfuls of water, three of tomato catsup, a httle 
pepper and salt, half a cup of melteii butter, in which Stir a tablespoonful of 
sifted flour; put all together and boil until it thickens. This is most excellent 
with boiled meats, fish and poultry. 

BECHAMEL SAUCE. 
Put three tablespoonf ulsof butter in a sauce-pan; add three tablespoonfuls of 
sifted flour, quarter of a teaspoonful of nutmeg, ten pepper-corns, a teaspoonful 
of salt; beat all well together; then add to this, three slices of onion, two slices of 
carrot, two sprigs of parsley, two of thyme, a bay leaf and half a dozen mush- 
rooms cut up. Moisten the whole with a pint of stock or water and a cup of 
sweet cream. Set it on the stove and cook slowly for half of an hour, watching 
closely that it does not bum; then strain through a sieve. Most excellent with 
roast veal, meats and fish. —St. Charles Hotel, Nevf Orleans. 



142 SAUCES AND DBESS/NGS. 

MAITRE D'HOTEL SAUCE. 

Make a teacupful of drawn butter; add to it the jmce of a lemon, two table- 
flpoonfuls of minced onion, three tablespoonfuls of chopped parsley, a teaspoon- 
f ul of powdered thyme or summer savory, a pinch of cayenne and salt. Simmer 
over the fire, and stir well. Excellent with all kinds of fish. 

WINE SAUCE FOR GAME. 
Half a glass of currant jelly, hali a glass of port wine, half a glass of water, 
a tablespoonful of cold butter, a teaspoonful of salt, the juice of half a lemon, 
a pinch of cayenne pepper and three cloves. Simmer all together a few minutes, 
adding the wine after it is strained. A few spoonfuls of the gravy from the 
game may be added to it. This sauce is especially nice with venison. 

— Tabor House, Denver. 

HOLLANDAISE SAUCE. 

HaK a teacupful of butter, the juice of half a lemon, the yolk of two eggs, a 
speck of cayenne pepper, half a cupful of boiling water, half a teaspoonful of 
salt; beat the butter to a cream, add the yolks of eggs one by one; then the lemon- 
juice, pepper and salt, beating all thoroughly; place the bowl in which is the 
mixture in a sauce-pan of boihng water; beat with an egg-beater until it begins 
to thicken which will be in about a minute; then add the boiling water, beating all 
the time; stir until it begins to thicken hke soft custard; stir a few minutes after 
taking from the fire; be careful not to cook it too long. This is very m'ce with 

baked fish. 

—Miss Parlon. 

CURRANT JELLY SAUCE. 

Three tablespoonfuls of butter, one onion, one bay leaf, one sprig or celery, 
two tablespoonfuls of vinegar, half a cupful of currant jelly, one tablespoonful 
of flour, one pint of stock, salt, pepper. Cook the butter and onion until the 
latter begins to color. Add the flour and herbs. Stir until brown; add the 
stock, and simmer twenty minutes. Strain, and skim off all the fat. Add the 
jelly, and stir over the fire until it is melted. Serve with game. 

BROWN SAUCE. 

Delicious sauce for meats is made in this way: Slice a large onion, and fry in 

butter till it is brown; then cover the onion with rich brown gravy, which is left 

from roast beef; add mustard, salt and pepper, and if you choose a tablespoonful 

of Worcestershire sauce; let this boil up, and if too thick, thin it with a httle 



SA UCES ANti DRESSINGS. 1 43 

stock or gravy, 6r even a little liot water vrith butter. Pour this when done 
through a fine sieve. Of course a larger quantity can he prepared at once than 
is mentioned here. 

MUSHROOM SAUCE. 

Wash a pint of smali button mushrooms, remove the stems and outside skins, 
stew them slowly in veal gravy or nulk or cream, adding an onion, and season- 
ing with pepper, salt and a little butter rolled in flour. Their flavor will be 
heightened by salting a few the night before, to extract the juice. In dressing 
mushrooms, only those of a duU pearl color on the outside and the under part 
tinged with pale pink should be selected. If there is a poisonous one among 
them, the onion in the sauce will tmn black. In such a case throw the whole 
away. Used for poultry, beef or fish. 

APPLE SAUCE. 

When you wish to serve apple sauce with meat prepare it in this way: Cook 
the apples untU they are very tender, then stir them thoroughly so there will be 
no lumps at all; add the. sugar and a httle gelatine dissolved in warm water, a 
tablespoonful in a pint of sauce; pour the sauce into bowls, and when cold it will 
be stiff like jeUy, and can be turned out on a plate. Cranberry sauce can be 
treated in the same way. Many prefer this to plain stewing. 

Apples cooked in the following way look very pretty on a tea-table, and are 
appreciated by the palate. Select firm, round greenings; pare neatly and cut in 
halves; place in a shallow stew-pan with sufficient boiling water to cover them, 
and a cupful, of sugar to every six apples. Each half should cook on the bottom 
of the pan, and be removed from the others so as not to injure its shape. Stew 
slowly until the pieces are very tender; remove to a dish carefully; boil the 
syrup half an horn* longer; pour it over the apples and eat cold. A few pieces 
of lemon boiled in the syrup adds to the flavor. These sauces are a fine accom- 
paniment to roast pork or roast goose. 

CIDER APPLE SAUCE. 
BoQ four quarts of new cider until it is reduced to two quarts, then put into 
it enough pared and quartered apples to fiU the kettle; let the whole stew over a 
moderate fire four hours; add cinnamon if Mked. This sauce is very fine with 
almost any kind of meat. 

OLD-FASHIONED APPLE SAUCE. 
Pare and chop a dozen medium-sized apples, put them in a deep pudding-dish, 
sprinkle over them a heaping coffee-cupful of sugar and one of water. Place 



t44 SAUCES AND DUESSINGS. 

them in the oven and bake slowly two hours or more, or until they are a deep 
red brown; quite as nice as preserves. 

CRANBERRY SAUCE. 
One quart of cranberries, two cupf uls of sugar, and a pint of water. Wash 
the cranberries, then put them on the fire with the water, but in a covered sauce- 
pan. Let them simmer imtil each cranberry bursts open; then remove the cover 
of the sauce-pan, add the sugar and let them all boil for twenty minutes without 
the cover. The cranberries must never be stirred from the time they are placed 
on the fire. This is an imfailing recipe for a most delicious preparation of cran- 
berries. Very fine with turkey and game. 

APPLE OMELET. 
Apple omelet, to be served with broiled spare-rib or roast pork, is very deli- 
cate. Take nine large, tart apples, four eggs, one cup of sugar, one tablespoon* 
ful of butter; add cinnamon or other spices to suit yom: taste; stew the apples 
till they are very soft; mash them so that there will be no lumps; add the butter 
and sugar while they are still warm; but let them cool before putting in the 
beaten eggs; bake this till it is brown; you may put it all in a shallow pudding- 
dish or in two tin plates to bake. Very good. 

FLAVORED VINEGARS. 

Almost all the flavorings used for meats and salads may be prepared in 
vinegar with little trouble and expense, and vdll be found useful to impart an 
acid to flavors when lemons are not at hand. 

Tarragon, sweet basil, bumet, green mint, sage, thyme, sweet-marjoram, 
etc., may be prepared by putting three otmces of either of these herbs, when in 
blossom, into one gallon of sharp vinegar; let stand ten days, strain off dear, and 
bottle for use. 

Celery and cayenne may be prepared, using three oimces of the seed as above. 

CUCUMBER VINEGAR. 

Ingredients. — Ten large cucumbers, or twelve smaller ones, one quart of 
vinegar, two onions, two shalots, one tablespoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls 
of pepper, a quarter of a teaspoonf ul of cayenne. 

Mode. — Pare and slice the cucumbers, put them in a stone jar, or wide- 
mouthed bottle, with the vinegar; slice the onions and shalots, and add them, 
with all the other ingredients, to the cucumbers. Let it stand fom* or five days; 
boil it all up, and when cold, strain the liquor through a piece of muslin, and 



SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. H5 

store it away in small bottles well sealed. This vinegar is a very nice addition to 
gravies, hashes, etc., as weU as a great improvement to salads, or to eat with 
cold meat. 

CURRY POWDER. 

To make curry powder, take one ounce of ginger, one ounce of mustard, one 
ounce of pepper, three ounces of coriander seed, three ounces of turmeric, half 
an ounce of cardamoms, one-quarter ounce of cayenne pepper, one-quarter ounce 
of cinnamon, and one-quarter oimce of cmnmin seed. Pound all these ingre- 
dients very fine in a mortar; sift them and cork tight in a bottle. 

This can be had already prepared at most druggists, and it is much less 
trouble to purchase it than to make it at home. 

CURRY SAUCE. 

One tablespoonf ul of butter, one of floiu", one teaspoonful of curry powder, 
one large slice of onion, one large cupful of stock, salt and pepper to taste. Cut 
the onion fine, and fry brown in the butter. Add the flom" and curry powder. 
Stir for one minute, add the stock and season with the salt and pepper. Simmer 
five minutes; then strain and serve. This sauce can be served with a broil or 
&auU of meat or fish. 

TO BROWN BUTTER. 

Put a lump of butter into a hot frying-pan, and toss it about imtil it browns. 
Stir brown flour into it until it is smooth and begins to boU. Use it for coloring 
gravies, and sauces for meats. 

TO BROWN FLOUR. 

Spread flomr upon a tin pie-plate, set it upon the stove or in a very hot oven, 
and stir continually after it begins to color, imtil it is brown all through. 

Keep it always on hand; put away in glass jars covered closely. It is excel- 
lent for coloring and thickening many dishes. 

TO MAKE MUSTARD. 

Boil some vinegar; take four spoonfuls of mustard, half of a teaspoonful of 
Bugar, a salt-spoonful of salt, a tablespoonf ul of melted butter; mix well. 

FRENCH MUSTARD. 

Three tablespoonf uls of mustard, one tablespoonful of granulated sugar, well 
worked together, then beat in an egg until it is smooth; add one teacupfiil of 
vinegar, a little at a time, working it all smooth; then set on the stove and cook 



14^ SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. 

three or four minutes, stining all the time; when cool, add one tablespoonful of 

the best olive oil, taking care to get it all thoroughly worked in and smooth. 

You will find this very nice. 

—Mrs. D. Riegel. 

KITCHEN PEPPER. 

Mix one ounce of ground ginger, half an ounce each of black pepper, groimd 

cinnamon, nutmeg and allspice, one teaspoonful of ground cloves, and six 

ounces of salt. Keep in a tightly corked bottle. 

— The Caterer. 

PREPARED COCOANUT (For Pies, Puddings, &c.) 

To prepare cocoanut for future use; first cut a hole through the meat at one 
of the holes in the end, draw off the milk, then loosen the meat by pounding the 
nut well on all sides. Crack the nut and take out the meat, and place the pieces 
of meat in a cool open oven over night, or for a few hours, to dry; then grate it. 
If there is more grated than is needed for present use, sprinkle it with sugar, 
and spread out in a cool dry place. When dry enough put away in dry cans o» 
bottles. Will keep for weeks, 

SPICES. 

Ginger is the root of a shinib first known in Asia, and now cultivated in the 
West Indies and Sierra Leone. The stem grows three or four feet high, and 
dies every year. There are two varieties of ginger — the white and black — 
caused by taking more or less care in selecting and preparing the roots, which 
are always dug in winter, when the stems are withered. The white is the best. 

Cinnamon is the inner bark of a beautiful tree, a native of Ceylon, that grows 
from twenty to thirty feet in height and Hves to be centuries old. 

Cloves. — Native to the Molucca Islands, and so called from resemblance to 
a nail (clavis). The East Indians call them " changkek," from the Chinese " te- 
chengkia" (fragrant naUs). They grow on a strait, smooth-barked tree, about 
forty feet high. Cloves are not fruits, but blossoms, gathered before they are 
quite unfolded. 

Allspice. — A berry so called because it combines the flavor of several spices 
— grows abundantly on the allspice or bayberry tree; native of South America 
and the West Indies, A single tree has been known to produce one hiindred 
and fift}'- pounds of berries. They are pui-ple when ripe. 

Black pepper is made by grinding the dried berry of a climbing vine, native 
to the East Indies. White pepper is obtained from the same berries, freed from 



SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. 147 

fcheir husk or rind. Red or cayenne pepper is obtained by grinding the scarlet pod 
or seed-vessel of a tropical plant that is now cultivated in all parts of the world. 
Nutmeg is the kernel of a small, smooth, pear-shaped fruit that grows on a 
tree in the Molucca Islands, and other parts of the East. The trees commence 
bearing in the seventh year, and continue fruitful until they are seventy or 
eighty years old. Around the nutmeg or kernel is a bright, brown shell. This 
shell has a soft scarlet covering, which, when flattened out and dried, is known 
as mace. The best nutmegs are soUd, and emit oil when pricked with a pin. 

HERBS FOR WINTER. 

To prepare herbs for winter use, such as sage, summer savory, thyme, mint 
or any of the sweet herbs, they should be gathered fresh in their season, or 
procure them from the market. Examine them well, throwing out all poor 
sprigs; then wash and shake them; tie into small bundles, and tie over the 
bundles a piece of netting or old lace, (to keep off the dust); hang up in a warm, 
dry place, the leaves downward. In a few days the herb will be thorouglily diy 
and brittle. Or you may place them in a cool oven, and let them remain in it 
until perfectly dry. Then pick off all the leaves, and the tender tops of the 
stems; put them in a clean, large-mouthed bottle that is perfectly dry. When 
wanted for use, rub fine, and sift through a sieve. It is much bette: to put 
them in bottles as soon as dried, as long exposure to the air causes them to lose 
strength and flavor. 

MEATS AND THEIR ACCOMPANIMENTS. 
With roast beef: tomato sauce, grated horse-radish, mustard, cranberry sauce, 

pickles. 
With roast pork: apple sauce, cranberry sauce. 
With roast veal: tomato sauce, mushroom sauce, onion sauo and cranberry 

sauce. Horse-radish and lemons are good. 
With roast mutton : currant jelly, caper sauce. 
With boiled mutton : onion sauce, caper sauce. 
With boiled fowls: bread sauce, onion sauce, lemon sauce, cranberry sauce, jellies. 

Also cream sauce. 
With roast lamb: mint sauce. 
With roast turkey: cranberry sauce, currant jelly. 
With boiled turkey: oyster sauce. 
With venison or wild ducks: cranberry sauce, currant jelly, or currant jelly 

warmed with port wine, 



X? 



148 SAUCES AND DRESSINGS. 

With roast goose: apple sauce, cranberry sauce, grape or currant jelly. 
With boiled fresh mackerel: stewed gooseberries. 
With boiled blue fish: white cream sauce, lemon sauce. 
With broiled shad: mushroom sauce, parsley or egg sauce. 
With fresh salmon: green peas, cream sauce. 

Pickles are good with all roast meats, and in fact are suitable accompaniments 
to all kinds of meats in general. 

Spinach is the proper accompaniment to veal; green peas to lamb. 

Lemon juice makes a very grateful addition to nearly all the insipid members 
of the fish kingdom. Slices of lemon cut into very small dice and stirred into 
drawn butter and allowed to come to the boihng point, served with fowls, is a 
fine accompaniment. 

VEGETABLES APPROPRIATE TO DIFFERENT DISHES. 

Potatoes are good with all meats. With fowls they are nicest mashed. 
Sweet potatoes are most appropriate with roast meats, as also are onions, winter 
squash, cucumbers and asparagus. 

Carrots, parsnips, turnips, greens and cabbage are generally eaten with 
boiled meat, and com, beets, peas and beans are appropriate to either boiled or 
roasted meat. Mashed turnip is good with roast pork and with boiled meats. 
Tomatoes are good with almost every kind of meats, especially with roasts. 

WARM DISHES FOR BREAKFAST. 

The following of hot breakfast dishes may be of assistance in knowing what 
to provide for the comfortable meal called breakfast. 

Broiled beef steak, broiled chops, broiled chicken, broiled fish, broiled quail 
on toast, fried pork tenderloins, fried pig's feet, fried oysters, fried clams, fried 
hver and bacon, fried chops, fried pork, ham and eggs fried, veal cutlets breaded, 
sausages, fricasseed tripe, fricasseed kidneys, turkey or chicken hash, corn beef 
hash, beef croquettes, codfish baUs, creamed codfish, stewed meats ,on toast, 
poached eggs on toast, omelettes, eggs boiled plain, and eggs cooked in any of 
the various styles. 

VEGETABLES FOR BREAKFAST. 

Potatoes in any of the various modes of cooking, also stewed tomatoes, stew- 
ed corn, raw radishes, cucumbers sliced, tomatoes sliced raw, water cress, lettuce. 

To be included with the breakfast dishes: oatmeal mush, cracked wheat, 
hominy or corn-meal mush, these with cr,eam, milk and sugar or syrup. 



SAUCES AND DRESSINGS—SALADS. 149 

Then numberless varieties of bread can be selected, in form of rolls, fritters, 
muffins, waffles, coi'n-cakes, griddle-cakes, etc., etc. 

For beverages, coffee, chocolate and cocoa, or tea if one prefers it; these are 
all suitable for the breakfast table. 

When obtainable always have a vase of choice flowers on the breakfast ta- 
ble; also some fresh fruit, if convenient. 



Salabs* 

Everything in the make-up of a salad should be of the freshest material, the 
vegetables crisp and fresh, the oil or butter the very best, meats, fowl and fish 
weU cooked, pure cider or white- wine vinegar — in fact, every ingredient first- 
class, to insure success. 

The vegetables used in salad are: Beet-root, onions, potatoes, cabbage, lettuce, 
celery, cucumbers, lentils, haricots, winter cress, peas, French beans, radish, 
cauliflower, — all these may be used judiciously in salad, if properly seasoned, 
according to the following directions: 

Chervil is a dehcious salad herb, invariably foimd in all salads prepared by a 
French gourmet. No man can be a true epicure who is imfamiUar with this 
excellent herb. It may be procm-ed from the vegetable stands at Fulton and 
Washington markets the year round. Its leaves resemble parsley, but are more 
divided, and a few of them added to a breakfast salad give a delightful flavor. 

Chervil vinegar. — A few drops of this vinegar added to fish sauces or salads 
is excellent, and weU repays the Httle trouble taken in its preparation. Half fill 
a bottle with fresh or dry chervil leaves; fill the bottle with good vinegar and 
heat it gently by placing it in warm water, which bring to boiling point; i-emov* 
from the fire; when cool cork, and in two weeks it will be ready for use. 

MAYONNAISE DRESSING. 

Put the yolks of four fresh raw eggs, with two hard-boiled ones, into a cold 
bowl. Rub these as smoooth as possible before introducing the oil; a good 
measure of oil is a tablespoonful to each yolk of raw egg. All the ast consists 
in introducing the oil by degrees, a few drops at a time. You can never make 
a good salad without taking plenty of time. When the oil is well mixed, and 
assumes the appearance of jeUy, put in two heaping teaspoonfuls of dry table 
salt, one of pepper, and one of made mustard. Never put m. salt and pepper 



150 SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS. 

before this stage of the process, because the salt and pepper would coagulate the 
albumen of the eggs, and you could not get the dressing smooth. Two table- 
spoonfuls of vinegar added gradually. 

The Mayonnaise should be the thickness of thick cream when finished, but if 
it looks like curdling when mixing it, set in the ice-box or ia a cold place for 
about forty minutes or an hour, theiwnix it again. It is a good idea to place it in 
a pan of cracked ice while mixing. 

For lobster salad, use the coral, mashed and pressed through a sieve, then 
add to the above. 

Salad dressing should be kept in a separate bowl in a cold place, and not 
mixed with the salad imtil the moment it is to be served, or it may lose its 
cnspness and freshness. 

DRESSING FOR COLD SLAW. (Cabbage Salad.) 

Beat up two eggs, with two tablespoonf uls of sugar add a piece of butter the 
size of half an egg, a teaspoonful of mustard, a little pepper, and lastly a teacup 
of vinegar. Put all these ingredients into a dish over the fire, and cook like a 
soft custard. Some think it improved by adding half a cupful of thick sweet 
cream to this dressing; in that case use less vinegar. Either way is very fine. 

SALAD CREAM DRESSING. No. i. 

One cup fresh cream, one spoonful fine flour, the whites of two eggs beaten 
stiff, three spoonfuls of vinegar, two spoonfuls of salad oW or soft butter, two spoon- 
fuls of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful salt, one half teaspoonful pepper, one 
teaspoonful of made mustard. Heat cream almost to boiliDg; stir in the flour, 
previously wet with cold milk; boil two minutes, stirring all the time; add sugar 
and take from fire. When half cold, beat in whipped whites of egg; set aside 
to cool. When quite cold, whip in the oil or butter, pepper, mustard and salt; 
if the salad is ready, add vinegar, and pour at once over it. 

CREAM DRESSING. No. 2. 

Two tabJespoonfuls o^ whipped sweet cream, two of sugar, and four of vine- 
gar; beat well and pour over the cabbage, previously cut very fine and seasoned 
with salt 

FRENCH SALAD DRESSING. 

Mix one saltspoon of pepper with one of salt; add three tablespoonf uls of 
oliv© oil, and one even tablespoonf ul of onion, scraped fine; then one tablespoon- 



SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS. 151 

f ul of vinegar; when well mixed, pour the mixture over your salad, and stir all 
tiU well mingled. 

The merit of a salad is that it should be cool, fresh and crisp. For vegetables, 
use only the delicate white stalks of celery, the small heart-leaves of lettuce, or 
tendeirest stalks and leaves of the white cabbage. Keep the vegetable portions 
crisp and fresh, until the time for serving, when add the meat. For chicken 
and fish salads, use the Mayonnaise dressing. For simple vegetable salads, the 
French dressing is most appropriate, using onion rather than garlic, 

MIXED SUMMER SALAD. 
Three heads of lettuce, two teaspoonfuls of green mustard leaves; a handful 
of water-cresses; five tender radishes; one cucumber; three hard-boiled eggs; two 
teaspoonfuls of white sugar; one teaspoonf ul of salt; one teaspoonf ul of pepper; 
one teaspoonful of made mustard; one teacupfizl of vinegar; half ateacupfu] 
of oil. 

Mix all well together, and serve with a lump of ice in the middle. 

— "Common Sense in the Household." 

CHICKEN SALAD. 

Boil the fowls tender, and remove aU the fat, gristle and skin; mince the 
meat in smaU pieces, but do not hash it. To one chicken put twice and a half 
its weight in celery, cut in pieces of about one-quarter of an inch; mix thor. 
oughly, and set it in a cool place, — the ice chest. 

In the meantime prepare a " Mayonnaise dressing," and when ready for the 
table povu- this dressing over the chicken and celery, tossing and mixing it thor- 
oughly. Set it in a cool place until ready to serve. Garnish with celery tips, on 
cold hard-boiled eggs, lettuce'leaves, fi'om the heart, cold boiled beets or capers; 
oHves. 

Crisp cabbage is a good substitute for celery; when celery is not to be had"* 
use celery vinegar in the dressing. Turkey makes a fine salad. 

LOBSTER SALAD. No. I. 
Prepare a sauce with the coral of a fine, new lobster, boiled fresh for about 
half an hour. Pound and rub it smooth, and mix very gradually with a dress- 
ing made from the yolks of two hard-boiled eggs, a tablespoonful of made mus- 
tard, three of salad oil, two of vinegar, one of white powdered sugar, a small 
teaspoonful of salt, as much black pepper, a pinch of cayenne and two fresh 
yolks oi eggs. IText fill your salad bowl with some shred lettuce, the better 
part of two, leaving the small curled centre to garnish your dish with. Mingfe 



152 SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS. 

with this the flesh of your lobster, torn, broken or cut into bits seasoned with 
salt and pepper and a small portion of the dressing. Pour over the whole the 
rest of the dressing; put you-- lettuce-hearts down the centre and arrange upon 
the sides shces of hard-boiled eggs. 

LOBSTER SALAD. No. 2. 

Using canned lobsters, take a can, skim off all the oU on the surface, and 
chop the meat up coarsely on a flat dish. Prepare the same way six heads of 
celery; mix a teaspoonful of mustard into a smooth paste with a Uttle vinegar;' 
add two fresh yolks of eggs; a tablespoonful of butter, creamed, a small tea-' 
spoonful of salt, the same of pepper, a quarter of a teaspoonful of cayenne 
pepper, a giU of vinegar, and the mashed yoUcs of two hard-boiled eggs. Mix a 
small portion of the dressing with the celery and meat, and turn the remainder 
over all. Garnish with the green tops of celery, and a hard-boiled egg, cut into 
thin rings. 

FISH SALAD. 

Take a fresh white fish or trout, boil and chop it, but not too fine; put with 
the same quantity of chopped cabbage, celery or lettuce; season the same aa 
chicken salad. Garnish with the tender leaves of the heart of lettuce. 

OYSTER SALAD. 

Drain the Hquor from a quart of fresh oysters. Put them in hot vinegar 
enough to cover them placed over the fire; let them remain until p?Mmp, but not 
cooked; then drop them immediately in cold water, drain off, and mix with 
them two pickled cucumbers cut fine, also a quart of celery cut in dic« pieces, 
some seasoning of salt and pepper. Mix aU well together, tossing up with a 
silver fork. Pour over the whole a "Mayonnaise dressing." (Jamish with 
celery tips and shoes of hard-boiled eggs arranged tastefully. 

DUTCH SALAD. 

Wash, spht and bone a dozen anchovies, and roll each one up; wash, spht 
and bone one herring, and cut it up into small pieces; cut up into dice an equal 
quantity of Bologna or Lyons sausage, or of smoked ham and sausages; also, 
an equal quantity of the breast of cold roast fowl, or veal; add Ukewise, always 
in the same quantity, and cut into]dice, beet-roots, pickled cucumbers, cold boiled 
potatoes cut in larger dice, and in quantity according to taste, but at least thrice 
as much potato as anything else; add a tablespoonful of capers, the yolks and 
whites of some hard-boiled eggs, minced separately, and a dozen stoned ohves; 



S.4 UCES A ND DRESSINGS— SALADS. 1 5 3 

mix all the ingredients well together, reserving the olives and anchovies to orna- 
ment the top of the bowl; beat up together oil and Tarragon vinegar with white 
pepper and French mustard to taste; pour this over the salad and serve. 

HAM SALAD. 

Take cold boiled ham, fat and lean together, chop it until it is thorpiigbly 
mixed, and the pieces are about the size of peas; then add to this an equal quan- 
tity of celery cut fine; if celery is out of season, lettuce may be substituted. 
Line a dish thickly with lettuce-leaves and fill with the chopped ham and celery. 
Make a dressing the same as for cold slaw and turn over the whole. Very 
fine 

CRAB SALAD. 

Boil three dozen hard-shell crabs twenty-five minutes; drain and let them 
cool gradually; remove the upper shell and the tail, break the remainder apart 
and pick out the meat carefully. The large claws should not be forgotten^ for 
they contain a dainty morsel, and the creamy fat attached to the upper shell 
should not be overlooked. Line a salad-bowl with the small white leaves of two 
heads of lettuce, add the crab meat, pour over it a Mayonnaise garnish with 
crab claws, hard-boiled eggs, and Uttle mounds of cress-leaves, which may be 
mixed with the salad when served. 

COLD SLAW. 
Select the finest head of bleached cabbage— that is to say, one of the finest 
and most compact of the more delicate varieties; cut up enough into shreds to 
fill a large vegetable-dish or salad-bowl— that to be regulated by the size of the 
cabbage and the quantity required; shave very fine, and after that chop up, the 
more thoroughly the better. Put this into a dish in which it is to be served^ 
after seasoning it well vdth salt and pepper. Turn over it a dressing made as 
for cold slaw; mix it well, and garnish vnth slices of hard-boiled eggS. 

PLAIN COLD SLAW. 
Slice cabbage very fine; season with salt, pepper and a little sugar; pour 
over vinegar and mix thoroughly. It is nice served in the centre of a platter 
with fried oysters aroimd it. 

HOT SLAW. 
Cut the cabbage as for cold slaw; put it into a stew-pan, and set it on the top 
of the stove for half, an hour, or till hot all through; do not let it boiL Then 
make a dressing the same as for cold slaw, and, while hot, pour it over the hot 



154 .-^^ UCES AND DRESSINGS— SALADS. 

cabbage. Stir it until well mixed and the cabbage looks coddled. Serve unme- 
diately., 

TOMATO SALAET 

Peel and slice twelve good, sound, fresh tomatoes; the sUces about a quarter 
of an inch thick. Set them on the ice or in a refrigerator while you make the 
dressing. Make the same as " Mayonnaise, " or you may use "Cream dress- 
ing." Take one head of the broad-leaved variety of lettuce, wash, and arrange 
them neatly aroimd the sides of a salad bowl. Place the cold, sliced tomatoes in 
the centre. Pour over the dressing and serve. 

ENDIVE. 

This ought to be nicely blanched and crisp, and is the most wholesome of all 
salads. Take two, cut away the root, remove the dark-green leaves, and pick 
off all the rest; wash and drain well, add a few ch ives. Dress with Mayonnaise 
dressing. 

Endive is extensively cultivated for the adulteration of coffee; is also a fine 
relish, and has broad leaves. "Endive is of the same nature as chiccory, the 
leaves being curly. 

CELERY SALAD. 

Prepare the dressing the same as for tomato salad; cut the celery into bits 
half an inch long, and season. Serve at once before the vinegar injures the 
crispness of the vegetable. 

LETTUCE SALAD. 

Take the yoUcs of three hard-boiled eggs, and salt and mustard to taste; 
mash it fine; make a paste by adding a dessertspoonful of oUve oil or melted 
butter (use butter always when it is difficult to get fre.sh oil); mix thoroughly, 
and then dilute by adding gradually a teacupful of vinegar, and pour over the 
lettuce. Garnish by slicing another egg and laying over the lettuce. This is 
sufficient for a moderate-sized dish of lettuce- 

POTATO SALAD, HOT 

Pare six or eight large potatoes, and boil till done, and shce l;Ein while hot; 
peel and cut up three large onions, into small bits and mix with the potatoes; 
cut up some breakfast bacon into small bits, sufficient to fill a teacup; and fry it 
a light brown; remove the meat, and into the grease stir three tablespoonftils of 
vinegar, making a sour gravy, which with the bacon i>our over the potato and, 
onion; mix hghtly. To be eaten when hot. 



SAUCES AND DUESSINGS— SALADS. 155 

POTATO SALAD, COLD 

Chop cold boiled potatoes tine, with enough raW onions to season nicely, 
inaKe a dressing as for lettuce salad, and pour over it. 

BEAN SALAD. 

String young beans; break into half -inch pieces or leave whole; wash and 
cook soft in salt water; drain well; add finely chopped onions, pepper, salt and 
vinegar; when cool, add olive oil or melted butter. 

TO DRESS CUCUMBERS RAW. 

They should be as fresh from the vine as possible, few vegetables being more 
unwholesome when long gathered. As soon as they are brought in, lay them in 
cold water. Just before they are to go to table take them out, pare them and 
slice them into a pan of fresh cold water. When they are aU sliced, transfer 
them to a deep dish; season them with a Uttle salt and black pepper, and pour 
over them some of the best vinegar. You may mix with them a small quantity 
of sliced onions, not to be eaten, but to communicate a slight flavor of onion to 
the vinegar. 

CELERY UNDRESSED. 

Celery is sometimes seat to the table without dressing. Scrape the outside 
stalks, and cut off the green topsand the roots; lay it in cold water until near 
the time to serve, then change the water, in which let it stand three or four 
minutes; split the stalks in three, with a sharp knife, being careful not to break 
them, and serve in goblet-shaped salad glasses. 

To crisp celery, let it he in ice-water two hours before serving; to fringe the 
stalks, stick several coarse needles into a cork, and draw the stalk half way from 
the top through the needles several times and lay in the refrigerator to curl and . 
crisp. 

RADISHES. 

AJl the varieties are generally served in the' same manner, by scraping and 
placing on the table in glasses containing some cold water to keep them fresh 
looking. 

PEPPERGRASS AND CRESS. 

These are used mostly as an appetizer, served simply with salt. Cresses are 
occasiocally used in making salad. 



f 56 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— CA TSUFS. 

HORSE-RADISH. 

Hoi-se-radish is an agreeable relish, and has a particularly fresh taste in the 
spnng; is scraped fine or grated, and set on the table in a small covered cup; 
much that is bottled and sold as horse-radish is adulterated with grated turnip. 

LETTUCE. 

Wash each leaf separately, breaking them from the head ; crisp in ice- water 
and serve the leaves whole, to be prepared at table, providing hard-boiled eggs 
cut in halves or shces, oil and other ingredients, to be mixed at table to individual 
taste. 



Catsups. 

• TOMATO CATSUP. No. i. 
Put into two quarts of tomato -pulp (or two cans of canned tomatoes) one 
onion, cut fine, two tablespoonfuls of salt and three tablespoonfuls of brown 
sugar. Boil until quite thick; then take from the fire and strain it through a 
sieve, working it until it is all through but the seeds. Put it back on the stove, 
and add two tablespoonfuls of mustard, one of allspice, one of black pepper, and 
one of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of ground cloves, half a teaspoonful of 
cayenne pepper, one grated, nutmeg, one pint of good vinegar; boil it until it 
will just run from the mouth of a bottle. It should be watched, stirred often, 
that it does not bum. If sealed tight while hot, in large-mouthed bottles it will 
keep good for years. 

TOMATO CATSUP. No. 2. 

Cook one gallon of choice ripe tomatoes; strain them, and cook again until 
they become quite thicks * About fifteen minutes before taking up put into them 
a small level teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, one tablespoonful of mustard seed, 
half a tablespoonful of whole cloves, one tablespoonful of whole allspice, tied al 
in a thin muslin bag. At the same' time, add one heaping tablespoonful O" 
sugar, and one teacupful of best vinegar, and salt to suit the taste. Seal up air- 
tight, either in bottles or jugs. This is a valuable Southern recipe. 

GREEN TOMATO CATSUP. 

One peck of green tomatoes, and two large onions, sliced. Place them ia 
layers, sprinkhng salt between; let them stand twenty -four hours and then 



SA UCES AND DRESSINGS~CA TSUPS. 1 5 7 

drain them. Add a quarter of a pound of mustard seed, one ounce allspice, one 
ounce cloves, one ounce ground mustard, one ounce ground ginger, two table- 
spoonfuls black pepper, two teaspooufuls celery seed, a quarter of a pound of 
brown sugar. Put all in preserving-pan, cover with vinegar, and boil two 
hours; then strain through a sieve and bottle for use. 

WALNUT CATSUP. 

One hundred walnuts, six ounces of shalots, one head of garlic, half a pound 
of salt, two quarts of vinegar, two ounces of anchovies, two ounces of pepper, a 
quarter of an ounce of mace, half an ounce of cloves; beat in a large mortar 
a hundred green walnuts until they are thoroughly broken; then put them into 
a jar with six ounces of shalots cut into pieces, a head of garUc, two quarts of 
vinegar and the half pound of salt; let them stand for a fortnight, stirring 
them twice a day. Strain off the hquor, put into a stew-pan with the anchovies, 
whole pepper, half an ounce of cloves and a quarter of an ounce of mace; boil it 
half an hour, skimming it well. Strain it off, and when cold, pour it clear from 
any sediment into small bottles, coi-k it down clo.sely and stoi'e it in a dry place. 
The sediment can be used for flavoring sauces. 

OYSTER CATSUP. 

One pint of oyster meats, one teacupful of sherry, a tablespoonful of salt, a 
teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, the same of powdered mace, a gill of cider 
vinegar. 

Procure the oysters very fresh, and open sufficient to fill a pint measure; 
save the liquor, and scald the oysters in it with the sherry; strain the oysters, 
and chop them fine with the salt, cayenne and mace, until reduced to a pulp; 
then add it to the liquor in which they were scalded; boil -it again five minutes, 
and skim weU; rub the whole through a sieve, and when cold, bottle and cork 
closely. The corks should be sealed, 

MUSHROOM CATSUP. 

Use the larger kind, known as umbrellas or "flaps." They must be very 
fresh and not gathered in very wet weather, or the catsup will be less apt to 
keep. Wash and cut them m two fo four pieces, and place them in a wide, 
flat jar or crock in layers, .sprinkhng each layer with salt, and let them stand for 
twenty-four hours; take them out and press out the jm"ce, when bottle and 
cork; put the mushrooms back again, and in another twenty- four hours press 
them again; bottle and cork; repeat this for the third time, and then mix 



158 SA UCES AfifD DRESS/NGS—CA TSUPS. 

together all the juice extracted; add to' it pepper, allspice, one or more cloves 
according to quantity, pounded together; boil the whole, and skim as long as 
any scum rises; bottle when cool; put in each bottle two cloves and a pepper- 
corn. Cork and seal, put in a dry place, and it will keep for years. 

GOOSEBERRY CATSUP. 

Ten pounds of fruit gathered just before ripening, five pounds of sugar, one 
quart of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls each of ground black pepper, allspice, and 
cinnamon. Boil the fruit in vinegar until reduced to a pulp, then add sugar and 
the other seasoning. Seal it hot. 

Grape catsup is made in the same manner 

CUCUMBER CATSUP. 
Take cucumbers suitable for the table; peel and grate them, salt a little, and 
put in a bag to drain over night; in the morning season to taste with salt, pepper 
and vinegar, put in small jars and seal tight for fall or winter use. 

CURRANT CATSUP. 
Four pounds of currants, two pounds oC sugar, one pint of vinegar, one tea- 
spoonful of cloves, a tablespoonful of cinnamon, pepper and allspice. Boil in a 
porcelain sauce-pan until thoroughly cooked. Strain through a sieve, all but 
the skins; boil down until just thick enough to run freely from the mouth of a 
bottle when sold. Cork and set aside. 

APPLE CATSUP. 

Peel and quarter a dozen sound, tart apples; stew them until soft» in as little 
water as possible, then pass thern through a sieve. ^; To a quart of the sifted 
apple, add a teacupful of sugar, one teaspoonful of pepper, one of cloves, one of 
mustard, two of cinnamon, and two medium sized onions, chopped very fine. 
Stir all together, adding a tablespoonful of salt and a pint of \inegar. Place 
over the fire and boil one hour, and bottle while hot; seal very tight. It should 
be about as thick as tomato catsup, so that it will just run from the bottle. 

CELERY VINEGAR. 
A quart of fresh celery, chopped fine, or a quarter of a pound of celery seed; 
one quart of best vinegar; one tabl<!Sf)0(>nful of salt, and one of white sugar. 
Put the celery or seed into a jar, heat ihe vinegar, sugar and salt; pour it boiling 
hot over the celery, let it cool, cover it tightly and set away. In two weeks 
8^in and bottle. 



SA UCES AND DRESSJNGH—FJCKLES. 1 59 

SPICED VINEGAR. 

Take one quart of cider vinegar, put into it half an ounce of celery seed, one- 
third of an ounce of dried mint, one-third of an ounce of dried parsley, one 
garlic, three small onions, three whole cloves, a teaspoonful of whole pepper- 
corns, a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, salt to taste, and a tablespoonful of 
sugar; add a tablespoonful of good brandy. ; Put all into a jar, and cover it well; 
let it stand for three weeks, then strain and bottle it well. Useful for flavoring 
salad and other dishes. 



pickles. 

Pickles should never be put into vessels of brass, copper or tin, as the action 
of the acid on such metals often results in poisoning the pickles. Porcelain or 
granite- ware is the best for such purposes. 

Vmegar that is used for pickling should be the best cider or white-wine, and 
should never be boiled more than five or six minutes, as it reduces its strength. 
In putting away pickles, use stone or glass jars; the glazing on common earthen- 
ware is rendered injurious by the action of the vinegar. When the jar is nearly 
filled with the pickles, the vinegar should completely cover them, and if there 
is any appearance of their not doing well, turn ofif the vinegar, cover with fresh 
vinegar, and spices. Alum in small quantities is useful in making them firm 
and crisp. In using ground spices, tie them up in muslin bags. 

To green pickles, put green grape-vine leaves or green cabbage leaves 
between them when heating. Another way is to heat them in strong ginger 
tea. Pickles should be kept closely covered, put into glass jars and sealed 
tightly. 

" Turmeric " is India safifron, and is used very much in pickhng as a coloring. 

A piece of horse-radish put into a jar of pickles wiU keep the vinegar from 
losing its strength, and the pickles will keep sound much longer, especially 
tomato pickles, 

CUCUMBER PICKLES. 

Select the medium, small-sized cucumbers. For one bushel make a brine that 

will bear up an egg; heat it boiling hot and pour it over the cucumbers; let them 

stand twenty-four hours, then wipe them dry; heat some vinegar boiling hot, 

and pour over them, standing again twenty-four hours. Now change the vino 



l6o SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES 

gar, putting on fresh vinegar, adding one quart of brown sugai*, a pint of white 
mustard seed, a small handful of whole cloves, the same of cinnamon sticks, a 
piece of alum the size of an egg, half a cup of celery seed; heat it all boiling hot 
and pour over the cucumbers. 

SLICED CUCUMBER PICKLE. 

Take one gallon of medium-sized cucumbers, put them into a jar or pail. 
Put into enough boiling water to cover them a small handful of salt, turn it over 
them and cover closely; repeat this three mornings, and the fourth morning 
scald enough cider vinegar to cover them, putting into it a piece of almn as 
large as a walnut, a teacup of horse-radish root cut up fine; then tie up in a small 
muslin bag, one teaspoonful of mustard, one of ground cloves, and one of cinna- 
mon. Shoe up the cucumbers half of an inch thick, place them in glass jars 
and pour the scalding vinegar over them. Seal tight and they will keep good a 

year or more. 

— Mns. Lydia 0. Wright, South Verno^i, Vermont. 

CUCUMBER PICKLES. (For Winter Use.) 

A good way to put down cucumbers, a few at a time: 

When gathered from the vines, wash, and put in a firkin or half ban-el 
layers of cucumbers and rock-salt alternately, enough salt to make sufficient 
brine to cover them, no water; cover with a cloth; keep them under the brine 
with a heavy board; take off the cloth, and rinse it every time you put in fresh 
cucumbers, as a scum will rise and settle upon it. Use plenty of salt and it will 
keep a year. To prepare pickles for use, soak in hot water, and keep in a warm 
place imtil they are fresh enough, then pour spiced vinegar over them and let 
them stand over night, then pour that off and put on fresh. 

GREEN TOMATO PICKLES. (Sweet.) 

One peck of green tomatoes, sliced the day before you are ready for pickling, 
sprinkling them through and through with salt, not too heavily; in the morning 
drain off the liquor that will drain from them. Have a dozen good-sized onions 
rather coarsely shced; take a suitable kettle and put in a layer of the shced 
tomatoes, then of onions, and between each layer sprinkle the following spices: 
Six red peppers chopped coarsely, one cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of ground 
allspice, one tablespoonful of ground cinnamon, a teaspoonful of cloves, one 
tablespoonful of mustard. Turn over three pints of good vinegar, or enough to 
oompletely cover them; boil xmtil tender. This is a choice recipe. 



SA UCES AND DJi£SSINCS— PICKLE^. 1 6 1 

If the flavor of onions is objectionable, the pickle is equally as good Avithont 
them. 

GREEN TOMATO PICKLES. (Sour.) 

"Wash and slice, without peeling, one peck of sound green tomatoes, .put 
them into a jar in layers with a slight sprinlding of salt between. This may be 
done over night; in the moi-ning drain off the h'quor that has accumulated. 
Have two dozen medium-sized onions peeled aiid sliced, also six red peppers 
chopped fine. Make some spiced vinegar by boiling for half an houj' a quart of 
cider vinegar with whole spices in it. Now take a porcelain kettle and place in it 
some of the sliced tomatoes, then some of the bliced onions; shake in some black 
pepper and some of the chopped red peppeis; ])0ur over some of the spiced vine- 
gar; then repeat with the tomatoes, onTons, etc., until the kettle is full; cover 
with cold, pure, cider vinegar, and cook until tender, but not too soft. Turn into 
a jar well-covered, and set in a cool place. 

PICKLED MUSHROOMS. 

Sufficient vmegar to cover the mushrooms; to each quart of mushrooms two 
blades pounded mace, one ounce ground jjepper, salt to taste. Choose some nice 
young button-mushrooms for pickling, and lub off the skin with a piece of 
flannel and salt, and cut off the stalks; if very large, take out the red inside, 
and reject the black ones, as they ai'e too old. Put them in a stew-pan, sprinkle 
salt over them, with pounded mace and pepper in the above proportion; shake 
thera well over a clear fire until the h'<juor flows, and keep them there until it is 
all di'ied up again; then add as much vinegar as will cover them; just let it 
simmer for one minute, and store it away in stone jars for use. When cold, tie 
down with bladder, and keep in a dry i)lace; they will remain good for a length 
of time, and are generally considered excellent' for flavoring stews and other 
dishes. 

PICKLED CABBAGE. (Purple.) 

Cut a sound cabbage into quarter's, spread it on a large flat platter or dish 
and sprinkle thickly with salt; set it in a cool place for twenty-four hours; then 
drain off the brine, wipe it dry and lay it in the sun two hours, and cover with 
cold vinegar for twelve hours. Prepare a pickle by seasoning enough vinegar 
to cover the cabbage with equal quantities of mace, allspice, cinnamon and black 
pepper, a cup of sugar to every gallon of vinegar, and a teaspoonful of celery 
seed to every pint. Pack the cabbage in a stone jar; boil the vinegar and spices 
five minutes and pour on hot. Cover and set away in a cool, dry place. It will be 
good in a month. A few slices of beet-root improves the color. 



1 62 SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES. 

PICKLED WHITE CABBAGE. 

This recipe recommends itself as of a delightful flavor, yet easily made, and 
a convenient substitute for the old-fashioned, tedious method of pickhng the 
same vegetable. Take a peck of quartered cabbage, put a layer of cabbage and 
one of salt, let it remain over night; in the morning squeeze them and put them 
on the fire, with four chopped onions covered with vinegar; boil for half an 
hour, then add one ounce of turmeric, one gill of black pepper, one gill of celery 
seed, a few cloves, one tablespoonful of allspice, a few pieces of ginger, half an 
ounce of mace, and two pounds of brown sugar. Let it boil half an hour longer, 
and when cold it is fit for use; Four tablespoonf uls of made mustard should be 
added vdth the other ingredients. 

PICKLED CAULIFLOWER. 

Break the heads into sraaU pieces, and boil ten or fifteen minutes in salt and 
^ater; remove from the water and drain carefully. When cold, place in a jar, 
and pour over it hot vinegar, in which has been scalded a hberal supply of whole 
cloves, pepper, allspice and white mustard. Tie the spices in a bag, and, on 
removing the vinegar from the fire, stir into each quart of it two teaspoonfuls 
of French mustard, and half a cup of white sugar. Cover tightly and be sure 
to ha\e the vinegar cover the pickle. 

PICKLED GREEN PEPPERS. 

Take two dozen large, green, bell peppers, extract the seeds by cutting a slit 
in the side (so as to leave them whole). Make a strong brine and pour over 
them; let them stand twenty- four hours. Take them out of the brine, and soak 
them in water for a day and a night; now turn off this water and scald some 
vinegar, in which put a small piece of alum, and pour over them, letting them 
stand three days. Prepare a stuffing of two hard heads of white cabbage, 
chopped fine, seasoned shghtly with salt and a cup of white mustard seed; mix 
it well and stuff the peppers hard and full; stitch up, place them in a stone jar, 
and pour over spiced vinegar scalding hot. Cover tightly. 

GREEN PEPPER MANGOES. 

Select firm, sound, green peppers, and add a few red ones, as they are orna- 
mental and look well upon the table. With a sharp knife remove the top, take 
out the seed, soak over night in salt water, then fill with chopped cabbage and 
green tomatoes, seasoned with salt, mustard seed and ground cloves. Sew oh 



SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES. 103 

the top. Boil vinegar sufficient to cover them, with a cup of brovm sugar, and 
pour over the mangoes. Do this three mornings, then seal. 

CHOWCHOW. (Superior English Recipe.) 
This excellent pickle is seldom made at home, as we can get the imported 
article so much better than it can be made fi'om the usual recipes. This we 
vouch for as being as near t>ke genuine article a>s can be made: One quart of 
young, tiny cucumbers, not over two inches long, two quai'ts of very small white 
onions, two quarts of tender string beans, each one cut in halves, three quarts of 
green tomatoes, sliced and chopped very coarsely, two fresh heads of cauliflower, 
cut into small pieces, or two heads of white, hard cabbage. 

After preparing these articles, put them in a stone jar, mix them together, 
spi'inkling salt between them sparingly. Let them stand twenty-four houi-s, 
then drain off all the brme that has accumulated. Now put these vegetables in 
a preserving kettle over the fire, sprinkling through them an ounce of turmeric 
for coloring, six red peppers, chopped coarsely, four tablespoonfuls of mustard 
seed, two of celery seed, two of whole allspice, two of whole cloves, a coffee cup 
of sugar, and two-thirds of a teacup of best gi-ound mixed mustai-d. Pour on 
enough of the best cider vinegar to cover the whole well; cover tightly and 
simmer all well until it is cooked aU thi-ough and seems tender, watching and 
stirring it often. Put in bottles or glass jars. It grows better as it gi'ows 
older, especially if sealed when hot. 

PICKLED ONIONS. 

Peel small omons until they are white. Scald them in salt and water until 
tender, then take them up, put them into wide-mouthed bottles, and pour over 
them hot spiced vinegar; when cold, cork them close. Keep in a dry, dark 
place. A tablespoonful of sweet oil may be put in the bottles before the cork. 
The best sort of onions for pickling are the small white buttons. 

PICKLED MANGOES. 
Let the mangoes, or young musk-melons, lie in salt water strong enough to 
bear an <^^^, for two weeks; then soak them in pure water for two days, chang- 
ing the water two or three times; then remove the seeds and put the mangoes 
in a kettle, first a layer of grape leaves, then mangoes, and so on until all are in, 
covering the top with leaves; add a lump of alum the size of a hickory nut; 
pour vinegar over them and boil them ten or fifteen minutes; remove the leaves 
and let the pickles stand in this vinegar for a week; then stuff them with the fol- 
lowing mixture: One pound of ginger soaked in brine for a day or two, and cut 



1 64 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS-^PICKLES. 

in slices, one ounce of black pepper, one of mace, one of allspice, one of turmeric, 
half a pound of garlic, soaked for a day or two in brine, and then dried; one 
pint grated horse-radish, one of black mustard seed and one of white mustard 
seed; bruise all the spices and mix with a teacup of pure olive oil; to eacli 
mango add one teaspoonful of brown sugar; cut one solid head of cabbage fine; 
add one pint, of small onions, a few small cucumbei's and green tomatoes; lay 
them in brine a day and a night, then drain them well and add the imperfect 
mangoes chopped fine and the spices; mix thorouglily, stuff the ma,ngoes and tie 
them; put them in a stone jar and pour over them the best cider vinegar; set 
them in a bright, dry place until they ai'e canned. In a month add three 
pounds of brown sugar; if this is not sufficient, add more until agreeable to 
taste. This is for four dozen mangoes. 

PICKLE OF RIPE CUCUMBERS. 
This is a French recipe, and is the most excellent of all the high-flavored 
condiments; it is made by stm-drying thirty old, full-grown cucumbers, which 
have first been pared and spht, had the seeds taken out, been salted, and let 
stand twenty-foiu" hours. The sun should be permitted to dry, not simply drain 
them. When they are moderately dry, wash them with vinegai-, and place 
them in layers in a jar, alternating them with a layer of horse -i-adish, mustard 
seed, garhc, and onions, for each layer of cuctuubers. Boil in one quart of vine- 
gar, one ounce of race-ginger, half an ounce of allspice, and the same of turmeric; 
when cool pour this over the cucmnbers, tie up tightly, and set away. This pickle 
requires several months to mature it, but is delicious when old, keeps admira- 
bly, and only a little is needed as a rehsh. 

PICKLED OYSTERS. 

One gallon of oysters; wash them weU in their own liquor; carefully clcjar 
away the particles of sheU, then put them into a kettle, strain the hquor over 
them, add salt to yoxu" taste, let them just come to the boiling point, or until the 
edges cm! up; then skim them out and lay in a dish to cool; put a sprig of mace 
and a httle cold pepper; and allow the liquor to boil some time, skimming it 
now and then so long as any scum rises. Pour it into a pan and let it cool. 
When perfectly cool, add a half pint of strong vinegar, place the oysters in a jar 
and pour the hquor over them, 

RIPE CUCUMBER PICKLES. (Sweet.) 
Pare and seed ripe cucumbers. Slice each cucumber lengthwise into fom 
pieces, or cut it into fancy shapes as preferred. Let them stand twenty-four 



SA UCES AND D flESSINGS— PICKLES. 1 65 

hours covered with cold \inegar. Drain them, then put them into fresh vine- 
gar, with two pounds of sugar and one ounce of cassia buds to one quart of 
vinegar, and a tablespoonful of salt. Boil all together twenty minutes. Gox^er 
them closely in a jar 

PICCALILI. 

One peck of green tomatoes; eight large onions, chopped fine, with one cup 
of salt well stirred in. Let it stand over night; m the morning drain off all the 
liquor. Now take two quarts of water and one of vinegar, boil all together 
twenty minutes. Dram all through a sieve or colander. Put it back into the 
kettle again; turn over it two quarts of vinegar, one pound of sugar, half a 
pound of white mustard seed, two tablespoonfuls of ground pepper, two of cin- 
namon, one of cloves, two of ginger, one of allspice, and half a teaspoonf ul of 
cayenne pepper. Boil all together fifteen minutes, or until tender. Stir it often 
to prevent scorching. Seal in glass jars. 

A most delicious accompaniment for any kind of meat or fish, 

— Mrs. St. Johnx. 

PICKLED EGGS. 

Pickled eggs are very easily prepared and most excellent as an accompani- 
ment for cold meats. Boil quite hard three dozen eggs, drop in cold water and 
remove the shells, and pack them when entirely cold iii a wide- mouthed jar, 
large enough to let them in or out without breaking. Take as much vinegar as 
you think wiU cover them entirely, and boil in it white pepper, allspice, a little 
root-ginger; pack them in stone or wide-mouthed glass jars, occasionally putting 
in a tablespoonful of white and black mustard seed mixed, a small piece of race 
ginger, garlic, if liked, horse-radish imgrated, whole cloves, and a very little 
allspice. Slice two or three green peppers, and add in very small quantities. 
They will be fit for use in eight or ten days. 

AN ORNAMENTAL PICKLE. 

Beil fresh eggs half an hour, then put them in cold water. Boil red beets 
until tender, peel and cut in d^"ce form, and cover with vinegar, spiced; shell tha 
eggs and drop into the pickle jar. 

EAST INDIA PICKLE. 

Lay in strong brine for two weeks, or until convenient to use them, small 

cucumbers, very small common white onions, snap beans, gherkins, bard white 

cabbage quartered, plums, peaches, pears, lemons, green tomatoes and anything 

else you may wish. When ready, take them out of the brine and simmei* in 



1 66 SA UCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES. 

pure water until tender enough to stick a straw through — if still too salt, soak 
in clear water; drain thoroughly and lay them in vinegar in which is dissolved 
one ounce of timneric to the gallon. For five gallons of pickle, take two ounces 
of mace, two of cloves, two of cinnamon, two of allspice, two of celery seed, a 
quarter of a pound of white race ginger, cracked fine, half a poimd of white 
mustard seed, half a pint of small red peppers, quarter of a pound of grated 
horse-radish, half a pint of flour mustard, two ounces of turmeric, half a pint of 
garlic, if you like; soak in two gallons of cider vinegar for two weeks, stirring 
daily. After the pickles have lain in the turmeric vinegar for a week, take them 
out and put in jars or casks, one layer of pickle and one of spice out of the vine- 
gar, tiU all is used. If the turmeric vinegar is still good and strong, add it and 
the spiced vinegar. If the turmeric vinegar be much diluted, do not use it, but 
add enough fresh to the spiced to cover the pickles; put it on the fire with a 
pound of brown sugar to each gallon; when boiling, pom- over the pickle. Repeat 
this two or three times as your taste may direct. 

MIXED PICKLES. 
Scald in salt water until tender, cauhflower heads, smaU onions, peppers, 
cucumbers cut in dice, nasturtimns and green beans; then drain until dry, and 
pack into wide-mouthed bottles. Boil in each pint of cider vinegar one table- 
spoonful of sugar, half a teaspoonful of salt and two tablespoonfuls of mustard; 
pour over the pickle and seal carefully. Other spices may be added if liked. 

BLUE-BERRY PICKLES. 

For blue-berry pickles, old jars which have lost their covers, or whose edges 
have been broken so that the covers vidll not fit tightly, serve an excellent pur- 
pose, as these pickles must not be kept air-tight. 

Pick over your berries, using only sound ones; fill yom- jars or wide-mouthed 
bottles to within an inch of the top, then pour in molasses enough to settle 
down into all the spaces; this cannot be done in a moment, as molasses does not 
run very freely. Only lazy people wiU feel obhged to stand by and watch its 
progress. As it settles, pour in more until the beiries are covered. Then tie 
over the top a piece of cotton cloth to keep the flies and other insects out, and set 
away in the preserve closet. Cheap molasses is good enough, and your pickles 
will soon be " sharp." Wild grapes may be pickled in the same manner. 

PICKLED BUTTERNUTS AND WALNUTS. 
These nuts are in the best state for pickling when the outside shell can be 
penetrated by the head of a pin. Scald them, and rub off the outside skin, put 



SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES. 1 67 

them in a strong brine for six days, changing the water every-'Other day, keep- 
ing them closely covered from the air. Then drain and wipe them, (piercing 
each nut through in several places with a large needle,) and prepare the pickle 
as follows: — For a hundred large nuts, take of black pepper and ginger root each 
an ounce ; and of cloves, mace and nutmeg each a half ounce. Pound all the 
spices to powder, and mix them well together, adding two large spoonfuls of 
mustard seed. Put the nuts into jars, (having first stuck each of them through 
in several places with a large needle,) strewing the powdered seasoning between 
every layer of nuts. Boil for five minutes a gallon of the very best cider vine- 
gar, and poiu" it boiling hot upon the nuts. Secure the jars closely with corks.. 
You may begin to eat the nuts in a fortnight. 

WATERMELON PICKLE. 

Ten poimds of watermelon rind boiled in pure water until tender; drain the 
water off, and make a syrup of two pounds of white sugar, one quart of vinegar, 
half an ounce of cloves, one ounce of cinnamon. The syrup to be poured over 
the rind boiling hot three days in succession, 

SWEET PICKLE FOR FRUIT 

Most of the recipes for making a sweet pickle for fruit, such as cling-stone 
peaches, damsons, plums, cherries, apricots, etc., are so similar, that we give that 
which is the most successfully used. 

To every quart of fruit, allow a cup of white sugar and a large pint of good 
cider vinegar, adding half an ounce of stick cinnamon, one tablespoonful of 
whole cloves, the same of whole allspice. Let it come to a boil, and pour it hot 
over the fruit; repeat this two or three days in succession; then seal hot in glass 
jars if you wish to keep it for a long time 

The fruity not the liquor, is to be eaten, and used the same as any pickle. 
Some confound this with " Spiced Fruit," which is not treated the same, one 
being a pickle, the other a spiced preserve boiled down thick. 

Damsons and plums should be pricked with a needle, and peaches washed 
with a weak lye, and then rubbed with a coarse cloth to remove the fur. 

PEAR PICKLE. 

Select small, sound ones, remove the blossom end, stick them with a fork, 
allow to each quart of pears one pint of cider vinegar and one cup of sugar, put 
in a teaspoonful allspice, cinnamon and cloves to boil with the vinegar ; then 
add the pears and boil, and seal in jars. 



I6« SAUCES AND DRESSINGS— PICKLES. 

SPICED CURRANTS. 

Seven pounds of fruit, four pounds of sugar, one pint of good cider vinegar, 
one tablespoonful of ground cinnamon, one teaspoonful of cloves. Put into a 
kettle and boil until the fruit is soft; then skim out the fruit, putting it on dishes 
until the syrup is boiled down thick. Turn the fruit back into the syrup again, 
so as to heat it all through; then seal it hot in glass jars, and set it in a cool, dark 
place. 

Any tart fruit may be put up in this way, and is considered a very good 
''-mbellishment for cold meats. 

SPICED PLUMS. 

Seven pounds of plums, one pmt of cider vuicgar, four poimds of sugar, two 
tablespoonfuls of broken cinnamon bark, half as much of whole cloves and the 
same of broken nutmeg; place these in a musUn bag and simmer them in a little 
vinegar and water for half an hour; then add it all to the vinegar and sugar, and 
bring to a boil; add the plums, and boil carefully until they are cooked tender. 
Before cooking the plums they should be pierced with a darning needle several 
times; this will prevent the skins bui'sting while cooking. 

SPICED GRAPES. 

Take the pulp from the grapes, preserving the skins. Boil the pulp and rub 
through a colander to get out the seeds; then add the skins to the strained pulp 
and boil with the sugar, vinegar and spices. To every seven pounds of grapes 
use four and one -half pounds of sugar, one pint of good vinegar. Spice quit© 
highly with ground cloves and allspice, with a little cinnamon. 

PICKLED CHERRIES. 

Select sound, large cherries, as large as you can get them; to every quart of 
cherries allow a large cupful of vinegar, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a dozen 
whole cloves, and half a dozen blades of mace; put the vinegar and sugar on to 
heat with the spices; boil five minutes, turn out into a covered stoneware vessel; 
cover and let it get perfectly cold ; pack the cherries into jars, and pour the vine- 
gar over them when cold; cork tightly and set away; they are fit for use almost 
immediately. 



Vegetables of all kinds should be thoroughly picked over, throwing out all 
decayed or unripe parts, then well washed in several waters. Most vegetables, 
when peeled, are better when laid in cold water a short time before cooking. 
When partly cookea a little salt should be thrown into the water in which they 
ai-e boiled, and they should cook steadily after they are put on, not allowed to 
stop boiling or simmering until they are thoroughly done. Every sort of 
culinary vegetable is much better when freshly gathered and cooked as soon as 
possible, and, when done, thoroughly drained, and served immediately while hot. 

Onions, cabbage, carrots and tiunips should be cooked in a great deal of 
water, boiled only long enough to sufficiently cook them, and immediately 
drained. Longer boihng makes them insipid in taste, and with too little water 
they turn a dark color. 

Potatoes rank first in importance in the vegetable line, and consequently 
should be properly served. It requires some little intelligence to cook even so 
simple and common a dish as boiled potatoes. In the first place, all defective or 
green ones should be cast out; a bad one will flavor a whole dish. If they are 
not- uniform in size, they should be made so by cutting after they are peeled. 
The best part of a potato, or the most nutritious, is next to the skin, therefore 
they should be pared v^ry thinly, if at all; then, if old, the cores should be cut 
out, thrown into cold water salted a little, and boiled until soft enough for a fork 
to pierce through easily; drain immediately, and replace the kettle on the fire 
with the cover partly removed, until they are completely dried. New potatoes 
should be put into boiling water, and when partly done salted a little. They 
should be prepared just in .time for cooking, by scraping off the thin outside 
skin. They require about twenty minutes to boil. 

TO BOIL NEW POTATOES, 

Do not have the potatoes dug long before they are dressed, as they are never 
good when they have been out of the ground some time. Well wash tliem, rub 



1 70 VEGETABLES. 

oGf the skins with a coarse cloth, and put them in boiling water salted. Let 
them boil until tender; try them with a fork, and when done pour the water 
away from them; let them stand by the side of the fire with the lid of the 
sauce pan partially removed, and when the potatoes are thoroughly dry, put 
them in a hot vegetable dish, with a piece of butter the size of a walnut; pile the 
potatoes over this, and serve. If the potatoes are too old to have the skins rubbed 
off, boil them in their jackets; drain, peel and serve them as above, with a piece 
of butter placed in the midst of them. They require twenty to thirty minutes 
to cook. Serve them hot and plain, or uith melted butter over them. 

MASHED POTATOES. 

Take the quantity needed, pare off the skins, and lay them in cold water half 
an hour; then put them into a sauce-pan, with a little salt; cover with water and 
boil them until done. Drain off the water and mash them fine with a potato- 
masher. Have ready a piece of butter the size of an egg, melted in half a cup 
of boiling hot milk, and a good pinch of salt; mix it well with the mashed 
potatoes until they are a smooth paste, taking care that they are not too wet. 
Put them into a vegetable dish, heap them up 'and smooth over the top, put a 
small piece of butter on the top in the centre, and have dots of pepper here and 
there on the surface as large as a half dime. 

Some prefer using a heavy fork or wire-beater, instead of a potato- masher, 
beating the potatoes quite light, and heaping them up in the dish without 
smoothing over the top. 

BROWNED POTATOES. 

Mash them the same as the above, put them into a dish that they are to be 
served in, smooth over the top, and brush over with the yolk of an egg, or spread 
on a bountiful supply of butter and dust well with flour. Set in the oven to 
brown; it will brown in fifteen minutes with a quick fire. 

MASHED POTATOES, (Warmed Over.) 

To two cupfuls of cold mashed potatoes, add a half cupful of milk, a pinch of 
salt, a tablespoonful of butter, two tablespoonfuls of flour, and two eggs beaten 
to a froth. Mix the whole until thoroughly hght; then put into a pudding or 
vegetable dish, spread a little butter over the top, and bake a golden brown. 
The quality depends upon very thoroughly beating the eggs before adding them, 
so that the potato will remain hght and porous after baking, similar to sponge- 
cake. 



VEGETABLES. l^\ 

POTATO PUFFS. 

Prepare the potatoes as directed for mashed potato. While hot, shape in 
balls about the size of an egg. Have a tin sheet well buttered, and place the 
balls on it. As soon as all are done, brush over with beaten egg. Brown in 
the oven. When done, slip a knife under them and slide them upon a hot 
platter. Garnish with parsley, and serve immediately. 

POTATOES A LA CR£ME. 

Heat a cupful of milk; stir in a heaping tablespoonful of butter cut up in as 
much flour. Stir until smooth and thick; pepper and salt, and add two cupfuls 
of cold boiled potatoes, sliced, and a little veiy finely chopped parsley. Shake 
over the fire until the potatoes are hot aU through, and pour into a deep dish. 

NEW POTATOES AND CREAM. 

Wash and nib new potatoes with a coarse cloth or scrubbing-brush; drop 
into boiling water and boil briskly until done, and no more,; press a potato 
against the side of the kettle with a fork; if done, it will yield to a gentle 
pressure; in a sauce-pan have ready some butter and cream, hot, but not boil- 
ing, a little green pai-sley, pepper and salt; drain the potatoes, add the mixture, 
put over hot water for a mmute or two, and serve. 

SARATOGA CHIPS. 

Peel good-sized potatoes, and slice them as evenly as possible. Drop them into 
ice- water: have a kettle of veiy hot lard, as for cakes; put a few at a time jnto a 
towel and shake, to dry the moisture out of them, and then drop them into the 
boiling lard. Stir them occasionally, and when of a light brown take them out 
with a skimmer, and they will be crisp and not greasy. Sprinkle salt over them 
while hot. 

FRIED RAW POTATOES. 

Peel half a dozen medium-sized potatoes very evenly, cut them in slices aa 
thin as an egg-shell, and be sure to cut them from the breadth, not the length, 
of the potato. Put a tablespoonful each of butter and sweet lard into the 
frying-pan, and as soon as it boils add the sliced potatoes, sprinkling over them 
salt and pepper to season them. Cover them with a 4;ight-fitting lid, and let the 
steam partly cook them; then remove it, and let them. fry a bright gold color, 
shaking and turning them carefully, so as to brown equally. Serve very hot. 

1a 



172 VEGETABLES. 

Fried, cold, cooked potatoes may be fried by the same recipe, only slice them 
a little thicker. 

Remark. — Boiled or steamed potatoes chopped up or sliced while they are 
yet warm never fry so successfully as when cold. 

SCALLOPED POTATOES, (Kentucky Style.) 

Peel and slice raw potatoes thin, the same as for frying. Butter an earthen 
dish, put in a layer of potatoes, and season with salt, pepper, butter, a bit of 
onion chopped fine, if liked; sprinkle a Uttle flour. Now put another layer of 
potatoes and the seasoning. Continue in this way till the dish is filled. Just 
before putting into the oven, pour a quart of hot milk over. Bake three quarters 
of an hour. 

Cold boiled potatoes may be cooked the same. It requires less time to bake 
them; they are delicious either way. If the onion is disliked, it can be omitted. 

STEAMED POTATOES. 

This mode of cooking potatoes is now much in vogue, particularly where 
they are wanted on a large scale, it being so very convenient. Pare the potatoes, 
throw them into cold water as they are peeled, then put them in a steamer. 
Place the steamer over a sauce-pan of boiling water, and steam the potatoes 
from twenty to forty minutes, according to the size and sort. When the fork 
goes easily through them, they are done; then take them up, dish, and serve 
very quickly. 

POTATO SNOW. 

Choose some mealy potatoes that will boil exceedingly wliite; pare them, and 
cook them well, but not so as to be watery; drain them, and mash and season 
them well. Put in the sauce-pan in which they were dressed, so as to keep 
them as hot as possible; then press them through a wire sieve into the dish in 
which they are to be served; strew a httle fine salt upon them previous to send- 
ing them to table. French cooks also add a small quantity of pounded loaf 
sugar while they are being mashed. 

HASTY COOKED POTATOES. 

Wash and peel some potatoes; cut them into shoes of about a quarter of an 
inch in thickness; throw them into boiling salted water, and, if of good quality, 
they veill be done in about ten minutea. 

Strain off the water, put the potatoes into a hot dish, chop them slightly, add 
pepper, salt, and a few small pieces of fresh butter, and serve without loss of time. 



VEGETABLES. 1 73 

FAVORITE WARMED POTATOES. 

The potatoes should be boiled whole with the skins on in plenty of water, well 
salted, and are much better for being boiled the day before needed. Care should 
he taken that they are not over cooked. Strip off the skins (not pare them witli 
a knife), and slice them nearly a quarter of an inch thick. Place them in a 
chopping-bowl and sprinkle over them sufficient salt and pepper to season them 
well; chop them all one way, then turn the chopping-bowl half way around, 
and chop across them, cutting them into little square pieces, the shape of dice. 
About twenty -five minutes before serving time, place on the stove a sauce-pan 
(or any suitable dish) containing a piece of butter the size of an egg; when it 
begins to melt and run over the bottom of the dish, put in a cup of rich sweet 
milk. When this boQs up, put in the chopped potatoes; there should be about 
a quart of them; stir them a little. so that they become moistened through with 
the nulk; then cover and place them on the back of the stove, or in a moderate 
oven, where they will heat through gradually. When heated through stir care- 
fully from the bottom with a spoon, and cover tightly again. Keep hot. until 
ready to serve. Baked potatoes are very good warmed in this manner. 

CRISP POTATOES. 

Cut cold raw potatoes into shavings, cubes, or any small shape; throw thera, 
a few at a time, into boiling fat, and toss them about with a knife until they 
are a uniform hght brown; drain and season with salt and pepper. Fat is never 
hot enough whUe bubbling — when it is ready it is still and smoking, but should 
never bum. 

LYONNAISE POTATOES. 

Take eight or ten good-sized cold boiled potatoes, shce them endwise, then 

crosswise, making them like dice in small squares. When you are ready to cook 

them, heat some butter or good drippings in a frying-pan; fiy in it one small 

onion (chopped fine) until it begins to change color, and look yellow. Now put 

in your potatoes, sprinkle well with salt and pepper, stir well and cook about 

five minutes, taking care that you do not break them. They must not hrovm. 

Just before taking up, stir in a tablespoonful of minced parsley. Drain dry by 

shaking in a heated colander. Serve very hot. 

— Delmonico. 

POTATO FILLETS. 

Pare and shce the potatoes thin; cut them if you Uke in small fillets, about a 
quarter of an inch square, and as long as the potato will admit; keep them in 



1 74 VEGETABLES. 

cold water until wanted, then drop them into boiling lard; when nearly done, 
take them out with a skimmer and drain them, boil up the lard again, drop the 
potatoes back and fry till done; this operation causes the fillets to swell up 
and puff. 

POTATO CROQUETTES. No. i. 

Wash, peel and put four large potatoes in cold water, with a pinch of salt, 
and set them over a brisk fire; when they are done pour off all the water and 
mash them. Take another sauce-pan, and put in it ten tablespoonfuls of milk 
and a lump of butter half the size of an egg; put it over a brisk fire; as sooh as 
the milk comes to a boil, poiu- the potatoes into it, and stir them very fast with 
a wooden spoon; when thoroughly mixed, take them from the fire and put them 
on a dish. Take a tablespoonf ul and roll it in a clean towel, making it oval in 
shape; dip it in a well-beaten egg, and then in bread crumbs, and drop it in hot 
drippings or b,rd. Proceed in this manner till all the potato is used, foui* 
potatoes making six croquettes. Fry them a light brown all over, turning them 
gently as may be necessary. When they are done, lay them on brown paper or 
a hair sieve, to drain all fat off; then serve on a napkin. 

POTATO CROOUETTES. No. 2. 

Take two cups of cold mashed potato, season with a pinch of salt, pepper 

and a tablespoonf ul of butter. Beat up the whites of two eggs, and work ah 

together thoroughly; make it into small balls slightly flattened, dip them in the 

beaten yolks of the eggs, then roll either in flour or cracker-crumbs; fry the 

same as fish-balls. 

— Delmonico's. 

POTATOES A LA DELMONICO. 

Cut the potatoes with a vegetable cutter into small balls about the size of a 
marble; put them into a stew-pan with plenty of butter, and a good sprinkling 
of salt; keep the sauce-pan covered, and shake occasionally until they oxe quite 
done, which will be in about an hour. 

FRIED POTATOES WITH EGGS, 

Slice cold boiled potatoes, and fry in good butter until brown; beat up one or 
two eggs, and stir into them just as you dish them for the table; do not leave 
them a moment on the fire after the eggs are in, for if they harden they are not 
half so nice; one egg is enough for three or four persons, unless they are very 
fond of potatoes; if they are, have plenty, and put in two. 



VEGETABLES, 1 75 

BAKED POTATOES. 

Potatoes are either baked in their jackets or peeled; in either case they should 
not be exposed to a fierce heat» which is wasteful, inasmuch as thereby a great 
deal of vegetable is scorched and rendered imeatable. They should be fre- 
quently turned while being baked, and kept from touching each other in the 
oven or dish. When done in their skins, be particular to wash and brush them 
before baking them. If convenient, they may be baked in wood-ashes, or in a 
Dutch oven in front of the fire. Wlien pared, they should be baked in a dish, 
and fat of some kind added to prevent their outsides from becoming burnt; they 
are ordinarily baked thus as an accessory to baked meat. 

Never serve potatoes, boiled or baked whole, in a closely covered dish. They 
become sodden and clammy. Cover with a folded napkin that allows the steam 
to escape, or absorbs the moisture- They should be served promptly when done, 
and require about three-quarters of an hour to oiie hour to bake them, if of a 
good size. 

BROWNED POTATOES WITH A ROAST. No^ 1. 

About three quarters of an horn- before taking up your roasts, peel middUng- 
sized potatoes, boil them until partly done, then arrange them in the roasting- 
pan around the roast, basting them with the drippings at the same time you do 
the meat, browning then evenly. Serve hot with the meat. Many cooks partly 
boil the potatoes before putting around the roast. New potatoes are very good 
cooked around a roast. 

BROWNED POTATOES WITH A ROAST. No. 2. 

Peel, cook and mash the required quantity, adding while hot a little chopped 
onion, pepper and salt ; form it into small oval balls and dredge them with floiir;. 
then place around the meat, about twenty minutes before it is taken from the 
oven. When nicely browned, drain dry and serve hot with the meat. 

SWEET POTATOES. 

Boiled, steamed and baked the same as Irish potatoes; generally cooked with 
their jackets on. Cold sweet potatoes may be cut in shoes across or lengthwise, 
and fried as common potatoes; or may be cut in half and served cold. 

Boiled sweet potatoes are very nice. Boil until partly done, peel them and 
bake brown, basting them with butter or beef drippings several times. Served 
hot. They should be a nice brown. 



^^ VEGETABLES. 

BAKED SWEET POTATOES. 

Wash and scrape them, split them longthwise. Steam or boil tliem until 
nearly done. Drain, and put them in a baking-dish, placing over them lumps 
of butter, pepper and salt; sprinkle thickly wWXi sugar, and bake in the ovpn to 
a nice brown. 

Hubbird squash is nice cooked in the same manner. 

ONIONS BOILED. 

The white silver-skins are the best species. To boil them peel off the outside, 
cut off the ends, put them into cold water and into a stew-pan, and let them scald 
two minutes; then turn off that water, pour on cold water, salted a little, and 
boil slowly till tender, which will be in thirty or forty minutes, according to their 
size; .when done di-ain them quite dry, pour a little melted butter over them, 
sprinkle them with pepper and salt and serve hot. 

An excellent way to peel onions so as not to affect the eyes is to take a paa 
full of water, and hold and peel them under the water. 

ONIONS STEWED. 

Cook the Same as boiled onions, and when quite done turn off all the water; 
add a teacupful of milk, a piece of butter the size of an egg, pepper and salt to 
taste, a tablespoonf ul of flour stirred to a cream ; let all boil up once and serve in 
a vegetable dish, hot. 

ONIONS BAKED. 

Use the large Spanish onion, as best for this purpose; wash them clean, but 
do not peel, and put into a sauce-pan, with slightly salted water; boil an horn-, 
replacing the water with more boiling hot as it evaporates; turn off the water, 
and lay the onions on a cloth to dry them well; roll each one in a piece of but- 
tered tissue paper, twisting it at the top to keep it on, and bake in a slow oven 
about an hour, or until tender all through; peel them; place in a deep dish, and 
brown slightly, basting well with butter for fifteen minutes; season with salt 
and pepper, and pour some melted butter over them. 

FRIED ONIONS. 

Peel, slice, and fry them brown in equal quantities of butter and lard or nice 
drippbigs; cover until partly soft, remove the cover and brown them: salt and 
pepper. 



VEGETABLES. 1 77 

SCALLOPED ONIONS. 

Take eight or ten onions of good size, slice tiiem, and boil until tender. Lay 
them in a baking-dish, put in bread-crumbs, butter in small bits, pepper and salt, 
between each layer until the dish is full, putting bread-crumbs last; add milk or 
cream until full. Bake twenty minutes or half an hour 

A little onion is not an injurious article of food, as many believe. A judicious 
use of plants of the onion family is quite as important a factor in successful 
cookery as salt and pepper. "Wben carefully concealed by manipulation in food, 
it affords zest and enjoyment to many who could not otherwise taste of it were 
its presence known. A great many successful compounds derive their excellence 
from the partly concealed flavor of the onion, which imparts a delicate appetiz- 
ing aroma highly prized by epicures. 

CAULIFLOWER. 

WTieu cleaned and washed, drop them into boiUng water, into which you 
have put salt and a teaspoonful of flour, or a shce of bread; boil till tender; take 
off, drain, and dish them; serve with a sauce spread over, and made Avith melted 
butter, salt, pepper, grated nutmeg, chopped parsley, and vinegar. 

Another way is to make a white sauce (see Sauces), and when the cauli- 
flowers are dished as above, turn the white sauce over, and serve warm. They 
may also be sei-ved in the same way with a milk, cream, or tomato sauce, or 
with brown butter. 

It is a very good plan to loosen the leaves of a head of cauliflovver, and let lie, 
the top downward in a pan of cold salt water, to remove any insects that might 
be hidden between them. 

FRIED CAULIFLOWER. 

Boil the cauliflowers till about half done. Mix two tablespooni ills of flour 
with two yolks of eggs, then add water enough to make a rather thin paste; 
add salt to taste; the two whites are beaten tiU stiff, and then mixed with the 
yolks, flour and water. Dip each branch of the cauliflowers into the mixture, 
and fiy them in hot fat. When done, take them off with a slcimmer, turn into 
a colander, dust salt all over, and serve warm. Asparagus, celery, egg- plant,, 
oyster plant are all fine when fried in this manner. 

CABBAGE, BOILED. 

Great care is requisite in cleaning a cabbage for boiling, as it frequently 
harbors numerous insects. The large drum-head cabbage requires an hour to 



1 78 VEGETABLES 

boil; the green savory cabbage will boil in twenty minutes. Add considerable 
salt to the water when boiling. Do not let a cabbage boil too long, — by a long- 
boiling it becomes watery Kemove it from the water into a colander^ to drain, 
and serve with drawn butter, or butter poured over it, 

Red cabbage is used for slaw, as is also the white winter cabbage. For direc* 
tions to prepare these varieties, see articles Slaw and Sour-Crout. 

CABBAGE WITH CREAM. 

Remove the outer leaves from a solid, small-sized head of cabbage, and cut 
the remainder as fine as for slaw. Have on the fue a spider or deep skillet, and 
when it is hot put in the cut cabbage, pouring over it right away a pint of boil- 
ing water. Cover closely, and allow it to cook rapidly for ten minutes. Drain 
off the water, and add half a pint of new milk, or part milk and cream; when 
it boils, stir in a large teaspoouful of either wheat or rice flour, moistened with 
milk; add salt and pepper, and as soon as it comes to a boil, serve. Those who 
find slaw and other dishes prepared from cabbage indigestible, will not complain 
of this. 

STEAMED CABBAGE. 

Take a sound, solid cabbage, and with a large sharp kiufe shave it very finely. 
Put it in a sauce-pau, pour in half a teacupful of water or just enough to keep 
it from burning; cover it very tightly, so as to confine the steam; watch it 
closely, add a httle water now and then, until it begins to be tender; then put 
into it a large tablespoonful of butter; salt and pepper to taste, dish it hot. If 
you prefer to give it a tart taste, just before taking from the fire add a third of 
a cup of good vinegar. 

LADIES' CABBAGE. 

Boil a firm white cabbage fifteen minutes, changing the water then for more 
from the boihng tea-kettle. When tender, drain and set aside until perfectly 
cold. Chop fine and add two beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of butter, pepper, 
salt, three tablespoonfuls of rich milk or cream. Stir all well together, and bake 
in a buttered pudding-dish until brown. Serve very hot. This dish resembles 
cauliflower and is very digestible and palatable. 

FRIED CABBAGE. 
Place in a frying-pan an ounce of butter and heat it boiling hot. Then 
take cold boiled cabbage chopped fine, or cabbage hot, cooked the same aa 
steamed cabbage, put it into the hot butter and fry a light brown, adding two 
tablespoonfuls of vinegar. Very good. 



VEGETABLES. \ 79 

FRENCH WAY OF COOKING CABBAGE. 
Chop cold boiled white cabbage and let it drain till perfectly dry; stir in some 
melted butter to taste; pepper, salt and fom* tablespoonfuls of cream; after it is 
heated through add two well-beaten eggs; then turn the mixture into a buttered 
frying-pan, stirring imtil it is very hot and becomes a dehcate brown on the 
imder side. Place a hot dish over the pan, which must be reversed when turned 
out to be served. 

SOUR-CROUT. 

Barrels having held wine or vinegar are used to prepare sour-crout in. It is 
better, however, to have a special barrel for the purpose'. Strasburg, as well as 
all Alsace, has a well-acquired fame for preparing the cabbages. They slice very 
white and fu-m cabbages in fine shreds with a machine made for the purpose. 
At the bottom of a small barrel they place a layer of coarse salt^ and alternately 
layers of cabbage and salt, being careful to have one of salt on the top. As each 
layer of cabbage is added, it must be pressed down by a large and heavy pestle, 
and fresh layers are added as soon as the juice floats on the surface. The cab- 
bage must be seasoned with a few grains of coriander, juniper berries, etc. 
When the barrel is full it must be put in a dry cellar, covered with a cloth, 
under a plank, and on this heavy weights are placed. At the end of a few days 
it will begin to ferment, during which time the pickle must be drawn off and 
replaced by fresh, until the liquor becomes clear. This should be done every 
day. Renew the cloth and wash the cover, put the weights back, and let stand 
for a month. By that time the sour-crout will be ready for use. Care must 
be taken to let the least possible air enter the sour-crout, and to have the cover 
perfectly clean. Each time the barrel has to be opened it must be properly 
closed again. These precautions must not be neglected. 

This is often fried in the same manner as fried cabbage, excepting it is fii-st 
boiled until soft in just water enough to cook it, then fry and add vinegar. 

TO BOIL RICE. 
Pick over the rice carefuUy, wash it in warm water, rubbing it between the 
hands, rinsing it in several waters, then, let it remain in cold water until ready 
to be cooked. Have a sauce-pan of water slightly salted; when it is boiling 
hard, pour off the cold water from the rice, and sprinkle it in the boiling water 
by degrees, so as to keep the particles separated. Boil it steadily for twenty 
minutes, then take it off from the fire, and drain off all the water. Place the 
sauce-pan with the hd partly off, on the back part of the stove, where it is only 



I So VEGETABLES. 

moderately waim, to allow the rice to dry. The moisture will pass ofif and each 
gr^dn of rice will be separated, so that if shaken the grains will faU apart. This 
is the true way of serving rice as a vegetable, and is the mode of cooking it in 
the southern States where it is laised. 

PARSNIPS, BOILED. 

Wash, scrape and split them. Put them into a pot of boiling water; add a 
little salt, and boil them till quite tender, which will be in from two to three 
hours according to their size Dry them m a cloth when done and pour melted 
butter or vvrhite sauce (see Sauces) over them in the dish. Serve them up with 
any sort of boiled meat or with salt cod. 

Parsnips are very good baked or stewed with meat. 

FRIED PARSNIPS. 

Boil tender in a little hot water salted; scrape, cut into long slices, dredge 
with flour; fry in hot lard or dripping, or in butter and lard mixed; fry quite 
brown. Drain off fat and serve. 

Parsnips may be boiled and mashed the same as potatoes. 

STEWED PARSNIPS. 

After washing and scraping the parsmps slice them about half of an inch 
thick. Put them in a sauce-pan of boihng water containing just enough to 
barely cook them; add a tablespoonful of butter, season with salt and pepper, then 
cover closely. Stew them until the water has cooked away, watching carefully 
and stirring often to prevent burning, until they are soft. When they are done 
they will be of a creamy light straw color and deliciously sweet, retaining all the 
goodness of the vegetable. 

PARSNIP FRITTERS. 

Boil four or five parsnips; when tender take off the skin and mash them fine; 
add to them a teas[>oonfiil of wheat flour and a beaten egg; put a tablespoonful 
of lard or beef diippings in a frying pan over the fire, add to it a sallspoonfuJ of 
salt; when boilmg hot [tutin the parsmps; make it in small cakes ivith a spoon; 
when one side isadehcate brown turn the other; when both are done take them 
on a dish, put a very httle ot the fat in which they weie fried over and serve hot. 
These resemble veiy nearly the taste of the salsify or oyster plant, and will gen- 
erally be preferred. 

CREAMED PARSNIPS. 

Boil tender, scrape, and sUce lengthwise. Put over, the fire with two table- 
spoonfuls of butter, pepper and salt, and a Utile minced parsley. Shake luitU 



VEGETABLES. >8l 

the mixture boils. Dish the parsnips, add to the sauce three tablespoonfuls of 
cream or milk, in which has been stirred a quarter of a spoonful of flour. Boil 
once, and pour over the parsnips. 

STEWED TOMATOES. 
Pour boiling water over a dozen sound ripe tomatoes; let them remain for a 
few moments; then peel off the skins, slice them, and put them over the 
fire in a well-lined tin or granite ware sauce-pan. Stew them about 
twenty minutes, then add a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper to 
taste; let them stew fifteen minutes longer; and serve hot. Some prefer to 
thicken tomatoes with a little gi'ated bread, adding a teaspoonful of sugar; and 
others who like the flavor of onion chop up one and add while stewing; then 
again some add as much green corn as there are tomatoes. 

TO PEEL TOMATOES. 

Put the tomatoes into a frying-basket, and plunge them into hot water for 
three or four minutes. Drain and peel. Another way is to place them in a flat 
baldng tin aud set them in a hot oven about five minutes; this loosens the sldns 
so that they readily slip off. 

SCALLOPED TOMATOES. 

Butter the sides and bottom of a pudding-dish. Put a layer of bread-crumbs 
in the bottom; on them put a layer of sliced tomatoes; sprinkle with salt, pepper 
and some bits of butter, and a very Utile white sugar. Then repeat with another 
layer of crumbs, another of tomato, and seasoning until full, having the top layer 
of slices of tomato, with bits of butter on each. Bake covered until well. cooked 
through; remove the cover and brown quickly. 

STUFFED BAKED TOMATOES. 

From the blossom-end of a dozen tomatoes— smooth, ripe and solid — cut a 
thin slice, and with a small spoon scoop out the pulp without breaking the rind 
surrounding it; chop a small head of cabbage and a good-sized onion finely,; 
and mix with them fine breadcrumbs aud the pulp; season vaih. pepper, salt 
and sugar, and add a cup of sweet cream; when all is well mixed, fill the 
tomato shells, replace the slices, and place the tomatoes in a buttered baking 
dish, cut ends up, and put in the pan just enough water to keep from burning; 
drop a small lump of butter on each tomato, and bake half an hour or so, till well 
done; place another bit of butter on each, and serve in same dish. Very fine. 

Another stuffing which is considered quite fine. Cut a slice from the stem 



162 VEGETABLES. 

of each and scoop out the soft pulp. Mince one small onion and fry it slightly; 
add a giU of hot water, the tomato pulp, and two ounces of cold veal or chicken 
chopped fine, simmer slowly, and season with salt and pepper. Stir into the 
pan cracker-dust or bread-crumbs enough to absorb the moisture; take off from 
the fire and let it cool; stuff the tomatoes with this mass, sprinkle dry crumbs 
over the top; add a small piece of butter to the top of each and bake until shghtly 
browned on top 

BAKED TOMATOES, (Plain.) 

Peel and slice quarter of an inch thick ; place in layers in a pudding dish, 
seasoning each layer with salt, pepper, butter, and a very little white sugar. 
Cover with a hd or large plate, and bake half an hour. Eemove the hd and 
brown for fifteen minutes. Just before taking from the oven, pour over the 
top three or four tablespoon fuls of whipped cream ^vith melted butter. 

TO PREPARE TOMATOES, (Raw.) 

CarefuUy remove the peehngs. Only perfectly lipe tomatoes should ever be 
eaten raw, and if ripe the skins easily peel off. Scalding injures the flavor. 
Slice thin, and sprinkle generously with salt, more sparingly with black pepper, 
and to a dish holding one quart, add a hght tablespoonf ul of sugar to give a 
piquant zest to the whole. Lastly, add a giU of best cider vinegar; although, if 
you would have a dish yet better suited to please an epicurean palate, you may 
add a teaspoonful of made mustard and two tablespoonfuls of rich sweet cream. 

FRIED AND BROILED TOMATOES. 

Cut firm, large, ripe tomatoes into thick slices, rather more than a quarter of 
an inch thick. Season with salt and pepper, dredge weU with flour, or roll in 
egg and crumbs, and fry them brown on both sides evenly, in hot butter and 
lard mixed. Or, prepare them the same as for frying, broiling on a well- 
greased gridiron, seasoning afterward the same as beefsteak. A good accom- 
paniment to steak. Or, having prepared the following sauce, a pint of milk, a 
tablespoonf ul of flour and one beaten egg, salt, pepper and a veiy httle mace; 
cream an ounce of butter, whisk into it the milk and let it simmer until it 
thickens; pour the sauce on a hot side-dish and arrange the tomatoes in the 
centre. 

SCRAMBLED TOMATOES. 

Remove the skins from a dozen tomatoes; cut them up in a sauce-pan; add a 
little butter pepper and salt; when sufficiently boiled, beat up five or six eggs, 



VEGETABLES. 183 

and just before you serve turn them into the sauce-pan with the tomatoes, and 
stir one way for two minutes, allowing them time to be done thoroughly. 

CUCUMBER A LA CREME. 
Peel and cut into slices (lengthNvise) some fine cucumbers. Boil them until 
soft, salt to taste, and serve with delicate cream sauce. 

For Tomato Salad, see " Salads," also for Raw Cucumbers. 

FRIED CUCUMBERS. 
Pare them and cut lengthwise in veiy thick shces; wipe thera dry with a 
cloth; sprinkle with salt and pepper, dredge with flour, and fry in lard and 
butter, a tablespoonful of each, mixed.. Brown both sides and serve warm. 

GREEN CORN, BOILED. 

This should be cooked on the same day it is gathered; it loses its sweetness 
in a few hours and must be artificially supplied. Strip off the husks, pick out 
all the silk and put it in boiling water ; if not entirely fresh, add a tablespoonful 
of s\igar to the water, but no suit; boil twenty minutes, fast, and serve; or you 
may cut it from the cob, put in plenty of butter and a little salt, and serve in a 
covered vegetable dish. The com is much sweeter when cooked with the husks 
on, but requires longer time to boil. Will generally boil in twenty minutes. 

Green corn left over from dirmer makes a nice breakfast dish, prepared as 
follows: Cut the corn from the cob, and put into a bowl with a cup of milk to 
every cup of corn, a half cup of flour, one egg, a pinch of salt, and a little butter. 
Mix well into a thick batter, and fry in small cakes in very hot butter. Sorve 
with plenty of butter and powdered sugar. 

CORN PUDDING. 

This is a Virginia dish. Scrape the substance out of twelve ears of tender, 
green, uncooked corn (it is better scraped than grated, as you do not get those 
husky particles which you cannot avoid with a grater); add yolks and whites, 
beaten separately, of four eggs, a teaspoonful of sugar, the same of flour mixed 
in a tablespoonful of butter, a small quantity of salt and pepper, and one pint of 
milk. Bake about half or three quarters of an hour. 

STEWED CORN. 
Take a dozen ears of green sweet corn, very tender and juicy; cut off the 
kernels, cutting with a large sharp knife from the top of the cob down; then 
scrape the cob. Put the corn into a sauce-pan over the fire, with just enough 



lS4 VEGETABLES. 

water to make it cook without burning; boil about twenty minutes, then add a 
teacupf ul of milk or cream, a tablespoouful of cold butter, and season with pepper 
and salt. Boil ten minutes longer, and dish up hot, in a vegetable dish. The 
com would be much sweeter if the scraped cobs were boiled first in the water 
that the corn is cooked in 

Many like corn cooked in this manner, putting half corn and half tomatoes; 
either way is vciy good. 

FRIED CORN. 

Cut the corn off the cob, taking care not to bring off any of the husk with 
it, and to have the gi-ains as separate as possible. Fiy in a htHe butter — just 
enough to keep it from sticking to the pan; stir very often. Wlien nicely 
browned, add salt and pepper, and a httle rich cream. Do not set it near the 
stove after the cream is added, as it ^^^ll be apt to turn. This makes a nice 
dinner or breakfast dish. 

ROASTED GREEN CORN. 

Strip off all the husk from gi-een corn, and roast it on a gridiron over a bright" 
fii-e of coajs, tmning it as one side is done. Or, if a wood fire is used, make a 
place clean in front of the fire, lay the corn down, turn it when one side is done; 
serve with salt and butter 

SUCCOTASH. 

Take a pint of fresh shelled Lima beans, or any large fresh beans, put them 
in a pot with cold water, rather more than will cover them. Scrape the kernels 
from twelve ears of young sweet corn; put the cobs in with the beans, boihng 
from half to three-quarters of an hour. Now take out the cobs and put in the 
scraped corn; boil again fifteen minutes, then season with salt and pepper to 
taste, a piece of butter the size of an egg, and half a cup of cream. Serve hot. 

FRIED EGG-PLANT. 

Take fresh, purple egg-plants of a middling size; cut them in slices a quarter 
of an inch thick, and soak them for half an hour in cold water, with a teaspoon- 
ful of salt in it. Have ready some cracker or bread-crumbs and one beaten egg; 
drain off the water from the shces, lay them on a napkin, dip them in the 
crumbs and then in the egg, put another coat of crumbs on them, and fry them 
in butter to a light brown. Tlie frying pan must be hot before the shces are put 
in, — they will fry in ten minutes. 

You may pare them before you nut them into the frying-pan, or you may 



VEGETABLES. 1 85 

pull the skins off when you take tnein up. You must not remove them from 
the water until you are ready to cook them, as the air will turn them black. 

STUFFED EGG-PLANT. 

Cut the egg-plant in two; scrape out all the inside and put it in a sauce^pan 
with a httle minced ham; cover with water and boil until soft; drain off the 
water; add two tablespoonfuls of grated crumbs, a tablespoonful of butter, half 
a minced onion, salt and pepper; stuff each half of the hull with the mixture; 
add a small lump of butter to each, and bake fifteen minutes 

Minced veal or chicken in the place of ham, is equally as good, and many 
pi-efer it. 

STRING BEANS. 

Break off the end that grew to the vine, drawing off at the same time tho 
string upon the edge; repeat the same process from the other end; cut them 
with a sharp knife into pieces half an inch long, and boil them in ^ust enough 
water to cover them. They usually require one hour's boiling; but this depends 
upon their age and freslmess. After they have boiled until tender, and the 
water boiled nearly out, add pepper and salt, a tablespoonful Of butter, and a 
half a cup of cream; if you have not the cream, a.dd more butter. 

Many prefer to drain them before adding the seasoning; in that case they 
lose the real goodness of the vegetable. 

LIMA AND KIDNEY BEANS. 

These beans should be put -into boihng water, a httle more than enough to 
cover them, and boiled tiQ tender— from half an hour to two hours; serve with 
butter and salt upon them. 

These beans are in season from the last of July to the last of September, 
There are several other varieties of beans, used as summer vegetables,, which 
are cooked as above. 

For Baked Beans, see *' Pork and Beans." 

CELERY. 
This is stewed the same as green com. by boiling, adding cream, butter, salt 
and pepper. 

STEWED.-SALSIFY OR OYSTER PLANT. 
Wash the roots and scrape off their skins, ^throwing them, as you do so, into 
cold water, for exposure to the air causes them to .immediately turn dark. Then 
cut crosswise into Httle thin sUces; throw into fresh water, enough to cover; add 



1 86 VEGETABLES. 

a little salt, and stew in a covered vessel until tender, or about one hour. Pour 
off a little of the water, add a small lump of butter, a httle pepper, and a gill of 
sweet cream, and a teaspoonf ul of flour stirred to a paste. Boil up and serve hot. 
Salsify may be simply boiled, and melted butter turned over them. 

FRIED SALSIFY. 
Stew the salsify as usual till very tender; then with the back of a spoon or a 
potato jammer, mash it very fine. Beat up an egg, add a teacupful of milk, a 
little flour, butter and seasoning of pepper and salt. Make into little cakes, and 
fry a hght brown in boiling lard, first rolling in beaten egg and then flovu-. 

BEETS BOILED. 

Select small-sized, smooth roots. They should be carefully washed, but not 
cut before boiUng, as the juice vdH escape and the sweetness of the vegetable be- 
impaired, leaving it white and hard. Put them into boiling water, and boil them 
until tender; which requires often from one to two hours. Do not probe them, 
but press them with the finger to ascertain if they are sufficiently done. When 
satisfied of this, take them up, and put them into a pan of cold water, and slip 
off the outside. Cut them into thin shces, and while hot season with butter, 
salt, a httle pepper and veiy sharp vinegar. 

BAKED BEETS. 
Beets retam their sugary, dehcate flavor to perfection if they are baked 
instead of boiled. Turn them frequently while in the oven, using a knife, aa 
the fork allows the juice to run out. When done remove the skin, and serve, 
, with butter, salt and pepper on the slices. 

STEWED BEETS. 
Boil them first, and then scrape and slice them. Put them into a stew-pan 
with a piece of butter rolled in flour, some boiled onion and parsley chopped fine, 
and a httle vinegar, salt and pepper. Set the pan on the fire, and let the beets 
stew for a quarter of an hour. 

OKRA. 

This grows in the shape of pods, and is of a gelatmous character, much used 
for soup, and is also pickled; it may be boiled as follows. Put the young and 
tender pods of long white okra in salted boiUng water in granite, porcelain or a 
tm-hned saucepan — as contact vrith iron will discolor it; boU fifteen minutes; 
remove the stems, and serve with butter, pepper, salt and vinegar if preferred. 



VEGETABLES. 1 87 

ASPARAGUS. 

Scrape the stems of the asparagus lightly, but very clean; throw them into 
cold water, and when they are all scraped and very clean, tie thera in bunches 
of equal size; cut the large ends evenly, that the stems may be all of the same 
length, and put the asparagus into plenty of boiling water, well salted. While 
it is boiling, cut several slices of bread half an inch thick, pare off the crust, and 
toast it a delicate brown on both sides. When the stalks of the asparagus are 
tender, (it will usually cook in twenty to forty minutes), lift it out directly, or it 
will lose both its color and flavor, and will also be liable to break; dip the toast 
quickly into the liquor in which it was boiled, and dish the vegetable upon it. 
the heads all lying one way. Pour over white sauce, or melted butter. 

ASPARAGUS WITH EGGS. 

Boil a bunch of asparagus twenty minutes; cut off the tender tops and lay 
them in a deep pie plate, buttering, salting and peppering well. Beat up four 
eggs, the yolks and whites separately, to a stiff froth; add two tablespoonfuls of 
milk or cream, a tablespoonful of warm butter, pepper and salt to taste. Pour 
evenly over the asparagus mixture. Bake eight minutes or until the eggs are 
set. Very good. 

GREEN PEAS. 

Shell the peas and wash in cold water. Put in boiling water just enough to 
cover them well, and keep the'm from burning; boil from twenty minutes to 
half an hour, when the liquor should be nearly boiled out; season with pepper 
and salt, and a good allowance of butter; serve very hot. 

This is a very much better way than cooking in a larger quantity of water, 
and draining off the liquor, as that diminishes the sweetness, and much of the 
fine flavor of the peas is lost. The salt should never be put in the peas before 
they are tender, unless very young, as it tends to harden them 

STEWED GREEN PEAS. 

Into a sauce-pan of boiling water put two or three pints of young green peas, 
and when nearly done and tender, drain in a colander dry; then melt two 
ounces of butter in two of flour; stir well, and boil five minutes longer; should 
the pods be quite clean and fresh, boil them first in the water, remove, and put 
in the peas. The Germans prepare a very palatable dish of sweet young poda 
alone, by simply stirring in a little butter with some savory herbs. 



1 88 VEGETABLES. 

SQUASHES, OR CYMBLINGS. 

The green or summer squash is best when the outside is beginning to tm-n 
yellow, as it is then less watery and insipid than when younger. Wash them, 
cut them into pieces, and take out the seeds. Boil them about three-quarters of 
an hour, or till quite tender. When done, drain and squeeze them well till you 
have pressed out all the water; mash them with a httle butter, pepper and salt. 
Then put the squash thus prepared into a stew-pan, set it on hot coals, and stif 
it very frequently till it becomes dry. Take care not to let it burn. 

Summer squash is very nice steamed, then prepared the same as boiled. 

BOILED WINTER SQUASH 

This is much finer than the summer squash. It is fit to eat in August, and, 
in a dry warm place, can be kept well all winter. The color is a very bright 
yellow. Pare it, take out the seeds, cut it in pieces, and stew it slowly till quite 
soft, in a very little water. Afterwards drain, squeeze, and press it \vell; then 
mash it -with a very httle butter, pepper and salt. They will boil in from twenty 
to forty minutes. 

BAKED WINTER SQUASH. 

Cut open the squash, take out the seeds, and without paring cut it up into 
large pieces; put the pieces on tins or a dripping-pan, place in a moderately hot 
oven, and bake about an hour. When done, peel and mash like mashed 
potatoes, or serve the pieces hot on a dish, to be eaten warm ^vith butter like 
sweet potatoes. It retains its sweetness much better baked this way than when 
boiled. 

VEGETABLE HASH. 

Chop rather coarsely the remains of vegetables left from a boiled dinner, 
such as cabbage, parsnips, potatoes,- etc., sprinkle over them a httle pepper; 
place in a saucepan or frying-pan over the fire; put in a piece of butter the size 
of a liickory nut; when it begins to melt, tip the dish so as to oil the bottom, and 
around the sides; then put in the chopped vegetables; pour in a spoonful or two 
of hot water from the tea-keiltle; cover quickly so as to keep in the steam. 
When heated thoroughly take off the cover and stir occasionally rnitil well 
cooked. Serve hot. Persons fond of vegetables win rehsh this dish very much. 

SPINACH. 

It should be cooked so as to retain its bright-gi'een color, and not seni to 
table, as it so often is, of a dull-brown or ohve color; to retain its fresh appear- 
ance, do not cover the vessel while it is cooking. 



VEGETABLES. 1 89 

Spinach requii'es close examination and picking, as insects are frequently 
found among it, and it is often gritty. Wash it through three or four waters. 
Then drain it and put it in boihng water. Fifteen to twenty minutes is gener- 
aUy sufficient time to boil spinach. Be careful to remove the .scum. When it 
is quite tender, take it up, and drain and squeeze it well. Chop it fine, and put 
it into a sauce-pan with a piece of butter and a little pepper anji salt. Set it on 
the fire and let it stew five minutes, stirring it all the time, until quite diy. 
Turn it into a vegetable dish, shape it into a mound, sUce some hard-boiled eggs 

and lay around the top. 

GREENS. 

About a peck of greens are enough for a mess for a family of six, such as 
dandelions, cowshps, burdock, chiccory and other greens. All greens should be 
carefully examined, the tough ones thrown out, then be thoroughly washed 
through several waters until they are entirely free from sand. The addition of a 
handful of salt to each pan of water used in washing the greens will free them 
from insects and worms, especially, if, after the last watering, they are allowed 
to stand in salted water for a half hour or longer. When ready tu boil the 
greens, put them into a large pot half full of boiling water, with a handful of 
salt, and boil them steadily until the stalks are tender; this will be in from five 
to twenty minutes, according to the maturity of the greens; but remember that 
long-continued boiling wastes the tender substances of the leaves, and so 
diminishes both the bulk and the nourishment of the dish; for this reason it is 
best to cut away any tough stalks before beginning to cook the greens. As soon 
as they are tender, drain them in a colander, chop them a Mttle and return them 
to the fire long enough to season them Avith salt, pepper and butter; vinegar 
may be added if it is hked; the greens should be served as soon as they are hot. 

AJl kinds of greens can be cooked in this manner. 

STEWED CARROTS. 

Wash and scrape the carrots, and divide them into strips^ put them into a 
stew-pan with water enough to cover them; add a spoonful of salt, and let them 
boil sloAvly until tender; then drain and replace them in the pan, with two table- 
spoonfuls of butter rolled in flour, shake over a Mttle pepper and salt, then add 
enough cream or milk to moisten the v/hole; let it come to a boil and serve hot, 

CARROTS MASHED 
Scrape and wash them; cook them tender in boiling water salted slightly. 
Drain well and mash them. Work in a good piece of butter and season with 
pepper and salt. Heap up on a vegetable dish and serve hot. 



190 VEGETABLES. 

Carrots are also good simply boiled in salted water and dished up hot with 
melted butter over them. 

TURNIPS. 

Turnips aro boiled plain with or without meat, also mashed like potatoes, and 
stewed Uke parsnips. They should always be served hot. They require from 
forty minutes to an hour to cook. 

STEWED PUMPKIN. 
See '* Stewed Pumpkin for Pie." Cook the same, then after stewing, season 
the same as mashed potatoes. Pumpkin is good baked in the same manner as 
baked winter squash. 

STEWED ENDIVE. 

Ingredients. — Six heads of endive, salt and water, one pint of broth, thicken- 
ing of butter and flour, one tablespoouful of lemon juice, a small lump of sugar. 

Mode. — Wash and free the endive thoroughly from insects, remove the green 
part of the leaves, and put it into boiling water, slightly salted. Let it remain 
for ten minutes; then take it out, drain it till there is no water remaining, and 
chop it veiy fine. Put it into a stew-pan with the broth; add a httle salt and a 
lump of sugar, and boil until the endive is perfectly tender. When done, which 
may be ascertained by squeezing a piece between the thumb and finger, add a 
thickening of butter and flour and the lemon juice; let the sauce boil up. and 
serve. 

Time. — Ten minutes to boil, five minutes to simmer in the broth. 

BAKED MUSHROOMS, 
Prepare them the same as for stewing. Place them in a baking-pan, in a 
moderate oven. Season with salt, pepper, lemon juice, and chopped parsley. 
Cook in the oven fifteen minutes, baste with butter. Anange on a dis"h and 
pour the gravy over them. Serve with sauce made by beating a cup of cream, 
two ounces of butter, a tablespoouful of chopped parsley, a httle cayenne pepper, 
salt, a tablespoouful of white sauce, and two tablespoonf uls of lemon juice. Put 
in a sauce-pan and set on the fire. Stir until thick, but do not let boU. Mush- 
rooms are very nice placed on sMces of well-buttered toast when set into the 
oven to bake. They cook in about fifteen minutes. 

STEWED MUSHROOMS. 
Time, twenty-one minutes. Button mushrooms; salt to taste; a little butter 
rolled in flour; two tablespoonf uls of cream or the yolk of one egg. Choose 



VEGETABLES, >9» 

buttons of unifonn size. Wipe them clean and white with a wet flannel; put 
them in a stew-pan with a little water, and let them stew very gently for a quar- 
ter of an hour. Add salt to taste, work in a little flour and butter, to make the 
liquor about as thick as cream, and let it boil for five minutes. When you are 
ready to dish it up, stir in two tablespoonfuls of cream or the yolk of an egg; 
stir it over the fire for a minute, but do not let it boil, and serve. Stewed but- 
ton mushrooms are very nice, either in fish stews or ragouts, or served apart to 
eat with fish. Another way of doing them is to stew them in milk and water 
(after they are rubbed white), add to them a little veal gravy, mace and salt, and 
thicken the gravy with cream or the yolks of eggs. 

Mushrooms can be cooked in the same manner as the recipes for oysters, 
either stewed, fried, broiled, or as a soup. They are also used to flavor sauces, 
catsups, meat gravies, game and soups. 

CANNED MUSHROOMS. 
Canned mushrooms may be served with good effect with game and even 
with beefsteak if prepared in this way: Open the can and pour off every drop of 
the liquid found there; let the mushrooms drain, then put them in a sauce-pan 
with a little cream, and butter, pepper, and salt; let them simmer gently for 
from five to ten minutes, and when the meat is on the platter pour the mush- 
rooms over it. If served with steak, that should be very tender, and be broiled, 
never in any case fried. 

MUSHROOMS FOR WINTER USE. 

Wash and wipe free from gi-it the small fresh button mushrooms. Put into 
a frying-pan a quarter of a pomid of the very best butter. Add to it two whole 
cloves, a saltspoonful of salt, and a tablespoonful of lemon juice. When hot, 
add a quart of the small mushrooms, toss them about in the butter for a moment 
only, then put them in jars; fill the top of each jar with an inch or two of the 
butter and let it cool. Keep the jars in a cool place, and when the butter is 
quite firm, add a top layer of salt. Cover to keep out dust. 

The best mushrooms grow on uplands, or in high, open fields, where the air 

is pure. 

TRUFFLES. 

The truffle belongs to the family of the mushrooms; they are used principally 
in this country as a condiment for boned turkey and chicken, scrambled eggs, 
fillets of beef, game and fish. When mixed in due proportion, they add a pecu- 
liar zest and flavor to sauces, that cannot be found in any other plant in th^ 
vegetable kingdom. 



192 VEGETABLES. 

ITALIAN STYLE OF DRESSING TRUFFLES. 

Ten truffles, a quarter of a pint of salad-oil, pepper and salt to laste, one 
tablespoonful of minced parsley, a very little finely minced garlic, two blades of 
pounded mace, one tablespoonful of lemon-juice. 

After cleansing and brushing the truffles, cut them into tnm slices, and put 
them in a baking- dish, on a seasoning of oil or butter, pepper, salt, parsley, garlic 
and mace, in the above proportion. Bake .them for nearly an hour, and just 
before serving, add the lemon juice and send them to table very hot. 

TRUFFLES AU NATUREL. 

Select some fine truffles; cleanse them, by washing them m several waters 
with a brush, until not a particle of sand or grit remains on them; wrap each 
truffle in buttered paper, and bake in a hot oven for quite an hour; take off the 
paper, wipe the tinaffles, and serve them in a hot napkin. 



flDaccaroni, 

MACCARONI A LA ITALIENNE. 

Divide a quarter of a pound of maccaroni into four-inch pieces. Simmer 
fifteen minutes in plenty of boiling water, salted. Drain. Put the maccaroni 
into a sauce-pan and turn over it a strong soup stock, enough to prevent burn- 
ing. Strew over it an ounce of gi'ated cheese; when the cheese is melted, dish. 
Put alternate layers of maccaroni and cheese; then turn over the soup stock and 
bake half an hour. 

MACCARONI AND CHEESE. 

Break half a pound of maccaroni into pieces an inch or two long; cook it in 
boihng water enough to cover it well; put in a good teaspoonful of salt; let it 
boil about twenty minutes. Drain it well, and then put a layer in the bottom of 
a well-buttered pudding-dish, upon this some grated cheese, and small pieces of 
butter, a bit of salt, then more maccaroni, and .so on, filhng the dish; sprinkle 
the top layer with a thick layer of cracker-crumbs. Pour over the whole a tea- 
cupful of cream or milk. Set it in the oven and bake half an hour. It should 
be nicely browned on top. Serve in the same dish in which it was baked, with 
a clean napkin pinned around it. 



VEGETABLES. 19J 

TIMBALE OF MACCARONI. 

Break in veiy short lengths small maccaroni (vermicelli, spaghetti, tagliarini). 
Liet it be rather overdone; dress it with butter and grated cheese; then work 
into it one or two eggs, according to quantity. Butter and bread-crumb a plain 
mold, and when the maccaroni is nearly cold fill the mold with it, pressing it 
well down and leaving a hollow in the centre, mto which place a well-flavored 
mince of meat, poultry or game; then fill up the mold with more maccaroni, 
pressed well down. Bake in a moderately heated oven, turn out and serve. 

MACCARONI A LA CREME. 

Boil one-quarter of a pound of maccaroni in plenty of hot water, salted, until 
tender; put half a pint of milk in a double boiler, and when it boils stir into it a 
mixture of two tablespoonfuls of butter and one of flour. Add two tablespoon- 
fuls of cream, a little white and cayenne pepper; salt to taste, and from one- 
quarter to one-half a pound of gi-ated cheese accordhig to taste. Drain and dish 
the maccaroni; pour the boiling sauce over it, and serve immediately. 

MACCARONI AND TOMATO SAUCE. 

Divide half a pound of maccaroni into four-inch pieces, put it into boiling 
salted water enough to cover it; boil from fifteen to twenty minutes; theiidrainj 
arrange it neatly on a hot dish, and pour tomato sauce over it, and serve imme- 
diately while hot. See " Sauces" for tomato sauce. 








TO MAKE BUTTER. 

Thoroughly scald the churn, then cool well with ice or spring water. Now 
pour in the thick cream; churn fast at first, then, as the butter forms, more 
slowly; always with perfect regtilarity; in warm weather, pour a little cold 
water into the churn, should the butter form slowly; in winter, if the cream is 
too cold, add a little warm water to bring it to the proper temperature. When 
the butter has " come," rinse the sides of the churn down with cold water, and 
take the butter up with the perforated dasher or a wooden ladle, turning it 
dexterously just below the surface of the buttermilk to catch every stray bit; 
have ready some very cold water, in a deep wooden tray; and into this plunge 
the dasher when you draw it from the chm-n; the butter w\]l float ofif, leaving 
the dasher free. When you have collected aU the butter, gather behind a 
wooden butter ladle, and drain off the water, squeezing and pressing the butter 
with the ladle; then pour on more cold water, and work the butter with the 
ladle to get the milk out, drain off the water, sprinkle salt over the butter, — a 
tablespoonful to a pound; work it in a little, and set in a cool place for an hour 
to harden, then work and knead it until not another drop of water exudes, and 
the butter is perfectly smooth and close in texture and polish; then with the 
ladle make up into roUs, nttle balls, stamped pats, etc. 

The chum, dasher, tray and ladle, should be weU scalded before using, so that 
the butter will not stick to them, and then cooled with very cold water. 

When you skim cream into your cream jar, stir it well into what is already 
there, so that it may all soiu- alike; and no fresJi cream should be pxd with it 
within twelve hours before churning, or the butter will not come quickly; and 
perhaps, not at all. . 

Batter is indispensable in almost all culinary preparations. Good, fresh 
butter, used in moderation, is easily digested: it is softening, nutritious, and 



BUTTER AND CHEESE. 195 

fattening, and is far more easily digested than any other of the oleaginous sub- 
stances sometimes used in its place. 

TO MAKE BUTTER QUICKLY. 

Immediately after the cow is milked, strain into clean pans, and set it over a 
moderate fire .until it is scalding hot; do not ^et it boil; then set it aside; when 
it is cold, skim off the cream; the milk will still be fit for any ordinary use; 
when you have enough cream, put it into a clean earthen basin; beat it with a 
wooden spoon until the butter is made, which will not be long; then take it from 
the millc and work it with a little cold water, until it is free from milk; then 
drain off the water, put a small tablespoonful of fine salt to each pound of 
butter, and work it in. A small teaspoonful of fine white sugar, worked in with 
the salt, will be found an improvement— sugar is a great preservative. Make 
the butter in a roll; cover it with a bit of muslin, and keep it in a cool place. 
A reliable recipe. 

A BRINE TO PRESERVE BUTTER. 

First work your butter into small rolls, vcTappmg each one carefully in a 
clean muslin cloth, tying them up with a string. Make a brine, say three 
gallons, having it strong enough of salt to bear up an egg; add half a teacupful 
of pure, white sugar, and one tablespoonful of saltpetre; boil the brine, and when 
cold strain it carefully. Pom' it over the rolls so as to more than cover them, 
as this excludes the air. Place a weight over all to keep the rolls under the 
surface. 

PUTTING UP BUTTER TO KEEP. 

Take of the best pure, common salt two quarts, one ounce of white sugar 
and one of saltpetre; pulverize them together completely. Work the butter 
well, then thoroughly work in an ounce of this rnixture to every pound of 
butter. The butter to be made into half-pound rolls, and put into the follo^ving 
brine— to three gallons of brine strong enough to bear an egg, add a quarter of 

a pound of white sugar. 

— Orange Co., N.Y,, style. 

CURDS AND CREAM. 

One gallon of milk will make a moderate dish. Put one spoonful of prepared 
rennet to each quart of milk, and when you find that it has become curd, tie it 
loosely in a thin cloth and hang it to drain; do not wring or press the cloth; 
when drained, put the curd into a mug and set in cool water, which must be 
freguently changed (a refrigerator saves this trouble.) When you dish it, if 



ige BUTTER AND CHEESE. 

there is whey iu the mug, ladle it gently out -without pressing the curd; lay it 
on a deep dish, and pour fi-esh cream over it; have powdered loaf-sugar to eat 
with it; also hand the nutmeg grater. 

Prepared rennet can be had at almost any druggist's, and at a reasonable 
price. Call for Crosse & Blackwell's Prepared Rennet. 

NEW JERSEY CREAM CHEESE. 

First scald the quantity of milk desired; let it cool a little, then add the 
rennet; the directions for quantity are given on the packages of " Prepared 
Rennet," When the curd is formed, take it out on a ladle vdthout breaking 
it; lay it on a thin cloth held by two persons; dash a ladleful of water over ^ach 
ladleful of cm-d, to separate the curd; hang it up to drain the water off, and then 
put it under a light press for one hour; cut the curd with a thread into small 
pieces; lay a cloth between each two, and press for an horn-; take them out, rub 
them with fine salt, let them Ue on a board for an hour, and wash them in cold 
water; let them lie to drain, and in a day or two the skin will look dry; put 
some sweet grass under and over them, and they will soon ripen. 

COTTAGE CHEESE. 

Put a pan of sour or loppered milk on the stove or range, where it is not too 
hot; let it scald mitil the whey rises to the top (be careful that it does not boil, 
or the curd will become hard and tough). Place a clean cloth or towel over a 
sieve, and pour this whey and curd into it, leaving it covered to drain two to 
three hours; then put it into a dish and chop it fine with a spoon, adding a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of butter and enough sweet cream to make the 
cheese the consistency of putty. With your hands make it into little balls flat- 
tened. Keep it in a cool place. Many like it made rather thin with cream, 
serving it in a deep dish. You may make this cheese of sweet milk, by forming 
the curd with prepared rennet. 

SLIP. 

Slip is bonny-clabber without its acidity, and so delicate is its flavor that 
many persons Uke it just as well as icecream. It is prepared thus: Make a 
quart of milk moderately warm; then stir into it one large spoonful of the 
preparation called rennet, set it by, and when cool again it will be as stiff as 
jelly. It should be made bnly a few hours before it is to be used, or it will be 
tough and watery; in summer set the dish on ice after it has jellied. It must be 
served with powdered sugar, nutmeg and cream. 



BUT7ER AND CHEESE. 1 97 

CHEESE FONDU. 

Melt an ounce of butter, and whisk into it a pint of boiled milk. Dissolve 
two tablespoonfuls of flour in a giU of cold milk, add it to the boiled milk and 
let it cool. Beat the yolks of four eggs -with a heaping teaspoonful of salt, half 
a teaspoonful of pepper, and five ounces of grated cheese. Whip the whites of 
the eggs and add them, pour the mixture into a deep tin lined with buttered 
paper, and allow for the rising, say four inches. Bake twenty minutes and 
Berre the moment it leaves the oven, 

CHEESE SOUFFLE. 

Melt an ounce of butter in a sauce- pan; mix smoothly with it one ounce of 
flour, a pinch of salt and cayenne and a quarter of a pint of milk; simmer the 
mixture gently over the fire, stirring it aU the time, tiU it is as thick as melted 
butter; stir hito it about three ounces of finely-grated parmesan, or any good 
cheese. Turn it into a basin, and mix with it the yolks of two well-beaten eggs. 
Whisk three whites to a solid froth, and just before the souffle is baked put 
them into it, and pour the mixture into a small round tin, 'It should be only 
half filled, as the fondu will rise very high. Pin a napkin aroimd the dish in 
which it is baked, and serve the moment it is baked. It would be weU to have a 
metal cover strongly heated. Time twenty minutes. Sufficient for six persons. 

SCALLOPED CHEESE. 

Any person who is fond of cheese could not fail to favor this recipe. 

Take three slices of bread, weU-buttered, first cutting off the brown outsidf 
ci-ust. Grate fine a quarter of a pound of any kind of good cheese; lay the 
bread in layers in a buttered baking-dish, sprinkle over it the grated cheese, 
some salt and pepper to taste. Mix four weU-beaten eggs with three cups of 
milk; pour it over the bread and cheese. Bake it in a hot oven as you would 
cook a bread pudding. This makes an ample dish for four people. 

PASTRY RAMAKINS. 

Take the remains or odd pieces of any light puff-paste left from pies or tarts; 
gather up the pieces of paste, roll it out evenly, and sprinkle it with grated 
cheese of a nice flavoi*. Fold the paste in three, roU it out again, and sprinkle 
more cheese over; fold the paste, roU it out, and with a paste-cutter shape it in 
any way that may be desired. Bake the ramakins in a brisk oven from ten to 
fifteen minutes, dish them on a hot napkin, and serve quickly. The appearance 



198 BUTTER AND CHEESE. 

of this dish may be very much improved by brushing the ramakins over with 
yolk of egg before they are placed in the oven. Where expense is not objected 
to, parmesan is the best kind of cheese to use for making this dish- 
Very nice with a cup of coffee for a Ivmch. 

CAYENNE CHEESE STRAWS. 

A quarter of a pound of flour, 2 oz. butter, 2 oz. grated parmesan cheese, a 
pinch of salt, and a few grains of cayenne pepper. Mix into a paste with the 
yolk of an egg. Roll out to the thickness of a silver quarter, about four or five 
inches long; cut into strips about a third of an inch wide, twist them as you 
would a paper spill, and lay them on a baking-sheet shghtly floured. Bake in a 
moderate oven until crisp, but they must not be the least brown. If put away 
in a tin, these cheese straws will keep a long time. Serve cold, pUed tastefully 
on a glass dish. You can make the straws of remnants of puff -pastry, rolling 
in the grated cheese, 

CHEESE CREAM TOAST. 

Stale bread may be served as follows: Toast the shces and cover them slightly 
with grated cheese; make a cream for ten slices out of a pint of milk and two 
tablespoonf uls of plain floiu*. The milk shovdd be boUing, and the floxu: mixed 
in a httle cold water before stirring in. When the cream is nicely cooked, season 
with salt and butter; set the toast and cheese in the oven for three or four 
minutes, and then pour the cream over them. 

WELSH RAREBIT. 

Grate three ounces of dry cheese, and mix it with the yolks of two eggs, put 
four ounces of grated bread, and three of butter; beat the whole together in a 
mortar with a dessertspoonful of made mustard, a httle salt and some pepper; 
toast some shoes of bread, cut off the outside crust, cut it in shapes and spread 
the paste thick upon them, and put them in the oven, let them become hot and 
shghtly browned, serve hot as possible. 



There are so many ways of cooking and dressing eggs, that it seems un- 
necessary for the ordinary family to use only those that are the most practical. 

To ascertain the freshness of an egg, hold it between your thumb and fore- 
finger in a horizontal position, with a strong light in front of you. The fresh 
egg will have a clear appearance, both upper and lower sides being the same. 
The stale egg will have a clear appearance at the lower side, while the upper side 
win exhibit a dark or cloudy appearance. 

Another test is to put them in a pan of cold water; those that are the first to 
sink are the freshest; the stale avIU rise and float on top; or, if the large end 
turns up in the water, they are not fresh. The best time for preserving eggs i3 
from July to September. 

TO PRESERVE EGGS. 

There are several recipes for preserving eggs, and we give first one which we 
know to be effectual, keeping thero fresh from August until Spring. Take a piece 
of quick-hme as large as a good-sizec* lemon, and two teacupfuls of salt; put it into 
a large vessel and slack it with a gallon of boiUng water. It will boil and bubble 
tmtil thick as cream; when it is cold, pour off the top, which will be perfectly 
clear. Drain off this liquor, and pour it over your eggs; see that the Uquor 
more than covers them. A stone jar is the most convenient; — one that holds 
about six quarts. 

Another manner of preserving eggs is to pack them in a jar with layers of 
salt between, the large end of the egg downward, with a thick layer of salt at 
the top; cover tightly, and set in a cool place. 

Some put them in a wire basket or a piece of mosquito net, and dip them in 
boiling water half a minute; then pack in saw-dust. Still another manner is to 
dissolve a cheap article of gum arabic, about as thin as mucilage, and brush 
over each egg with it; then pack in powdered charcoal; set in a cool, dark place. 



200 EGGS. 

Eggs can be kept for some time by smearing the shells witk butter oi- lard; 
then packed in plenty of bran or sawdust, the eggs not allowed to touch one 
another; or coat the eggs with melted paraffine. 

BOILED EGGS. 

Eggs for boiling cannot be too fresh, or boiled too soon after they are laid; 
but rather a longer time should be allowed for boiling a new-laid egg than for 
one that is three or four days old. Ha-ve jeady a saucepan of boiling water; 
put the eggs into it gently with a sp<X)n, letting the spoon touch the bottom of 
the sauce-pan before it is withdrawn, that the egg may not fall, and conse- 
quently crack. For those who like eggs lightly boiled, three minutes wiE be 
found sufficient; three and three-quarters to four minutes will be ample time to 
set the white nicely; and if liked hard, six or seven minutes will not be founil 
too long. Should the eggs be unusually large, as those of black Spanish fowls 
sometimes are, allow an extra half minute for them. Eggs for salad should be 
boiled for ten or fifteen minutes, and should be placed in a basin of cold water 
for a few minutes, to shrink the meat from the shell; they should then be rolled 
on the table with the hand, and the shell will peel off easily. 

SOFT BOILED EGGS. 

When properly cooked, eggs are donp evenly through, hke any other food. 
This result may be obtained by putting the egg into a dish with a cover, or a tin 
pail, and then pouring upon them boiling water — two quarts or more to a dozen 
of eggs — and cover and set them away where they will keep hot and not boil, for 
ten to twelve minutes. The heat of the water cooks the eggs slowly, evenly and 
sufficiently, leaving the centre, or yolk, harder than the white, and the egg tastes 
as much richer and nicer as a fresh egg is nicer than a stale egg. 

SCALLOPED EGGS. 

Hard-boil twelve eggs; shoe them thin in rings; in the bottom of a large 
well-buttered baking-dish place a layer of grated bread-crumbs, then one of 
eggs; cover with bits of butter, and spriulde with pepper and salt. Continue 
thus to blend these ingi-edients until the dish is fidl; be sure, though, that the 
crumbs cover the eggs upon top. Over the whole pour a large teacupful of 
sweet cream or milk, and brown nicely in a moderately heated oven. 

SHIRRED EGGS. 

Set into the oven until quite hot a common white dish, large enough to hold 
the number of eggs to be cooked, allowing plenty of room for each. Melt in it a 



EGGS. 20 1 

small piece of butter, and breaking the eggs carefully in a saucer, one at a time, 
slip them into the hot dish; sprinkle over them a small quantity of pepper and 
salt, and allow them to cook foiu: or five minutes. Adding a tablespoonful of 
cream for every two eggs, when the eggs are first slipped in, is a great improve- 
ment, 

This is far more deUcate than fried eggs. 

Or prepare the eggs the same, and set them in a steamer, over boiling water. 

They are usually served in hotels baked in individual dishes, about two in a 
dish, and in the same dish they were baked in. 

SCRAMBLED EGGS. 

Put a tablespoonful of butter into a hot frying-pan; tip around so that it will 
touch all sides of the pan. Having ready half a dozen eggs broken in a dish, 
salted and peppered, turn them (without beating) into the hot butter; stir them 
one way briskly for five or six minutes or until they are mixed. Be careful that 
they do not get too hard. Turn over toast or dish up without. 

POACHED OR DROPPED EGGS. 

Have one quart of boiling water, and one tablespoonful of salt, in a frying- 
pan. Break the eggs, one by one, into a saucer, and slide carefully into the 
salted water. Dash with a spoon a little water over the egg, to keep the top 
white. 

The beauty of a poached egg is for the yolk to be seen blushing through the 
white, which should only be just sufficiently hardened to form a transparent veil 
for the egg. 

Cook until the white is firm, and lift out v/ith a griddle-cake turner, and place 
on toasted bread- Serve immediately. 

A tablespoonful of vinegar put into the water, keeps the eggs from spreading. 

Open gem rings are nice placed in the water and an egg dropped into each 

Ting. 

FRIED EGGS. 

Break the eggs, one at a time, into a saucer, and then shde them carefully 
off into a frying-pan of lard and butter mixed, dipping over the eggs the hot 
grease in spoonfuls, or turn them over-frjdng both sides without breaking them. 
They require about three minutes' cooking. 

Eggs can be fried round like balls, by dropping one at a time into a quantity 
of hot lard, the same as for fried cakes, first stirring the hot lard with a stick 
until it runs round hke a whirlpool; this will make the eggs look like balls. 
Take out with a skimmer. Eggs can be poached the same in boiling water. 



«>2 EGGS 

EGGS AUX FINES HERBEs. 

Roll an ounce of butter in a good teaspoonful of fiour; season with pepper, 
salt and nutmeg; put it into a coffeecupful of fresh milk, together with two tea- 
spoonfuls of chopped pai-sley; stir and simmer it for fifteen minutes, add a 
tpacupful of thick cream. Hard-boil five eggs, and halve them; arrange them 
in a dish with the ends upwards, pour the sauce over them, and decorate with 
little heaps of fried bread-crumbs roimd the margin of the dish. 

POACHED EGGS A LA CR£ME. 

Put a quart of hot water, a tablespoonful of vinegar and a teaspoonful of sail 
into a frying-pan, and break each egg sepamtely into a saucer; slip the egg care- 
fully into the hot water, simmer three or four minutes until the. white is set, 
then with a skimmer lift them out into a hot dish. Empty the pan of its 
contents, put in half a cup of cream, or rich milk; if milk, a large spoonful of 
butter; pepper and salt to taste, thicken mth a very httle cornstarch; let it boil 
up once, and tuin it over the dish of poached eggs. It can be served on toast or 
without. 

It is a better plan to warm the cream anU butter in a separate dish, that the 
eggs may not have to standi 

EGGS IN CASES. 

Make little paper cases of buttered writing paper; put a small piece of butler 
in each, and a httle chopped parsley or onion, pepper and salt. Place the cases 
upon a gridiron over a moderate fire of bright coals, and when the butter melts, 
break a fresh egg into each case. Strew in upon them a few seasoned biead- 
crumbs, and when nearly done, glaze the tops with a hot shovel. Sei-ve in the 
paper cases. 

MINCED EGGS. 

Chop up'four or five hard-boUed eggs; do not mince them too fine. Put over 
the fire in a suitable dish a cupful of milk, a tablespoonful of butter, salt and 
pepper, and some savory chopped small When this comes to a boil, stir into it 
a tablespoonful of flour, dissolved in a little cold milk. When it cooks tluck like 
cream, put in the minced eggs. Stir it gently around and around for a few 
moments, and serve, garnished with sippets of toast. Any particular flavor may 
be given to this dish, such as that of mushrooms, truffles, catsup, essence of 
shrimps, etc.. or some shred anchovy may be added to the mince. 



EGGS. 203 

MIXED EGGS AND BACON. 
Take a nice rasher of taild bacon; cut it into squares no larger than dice; fry 
it quickly until nicely browned, but on no account bum it. Break half a dozen 
eggs into a basin, strain and season them with pepper, add them to the bacon, 
stir the whole about, and, when sufficiently firm, turn it out into a dish. Decorate 
with hot pickles. 

MIXED EGGS GENERALLY.— SAVORY OR SWEET. 

Much the same method is followed m mixed eggs generally, whatever may 
be added to them; really it is nothing more than an omelet which is stirred about 
in the pan while it is being di'essed, instead of being allowed to set as a pancake. 
Chopped tongue, oysters, shrimps, sardines, dried salmon, anchovies, herbs, may 
housed. 

COLD EGGS FOR A PICNIC. 

This novel way of preparing cold egg for the limch-basket fully repays one 
for the extra time required. Boil hard several eggs, halve them lengthwise; 
remove the yolks and chop them fine with cold chicken, lamb, veal or any 
tender, roasted meat; or with bread soaked in milk, and any salad, as parsley, 
onion, celery, the bread being half of the whole; or with grated cheese, a little 
oUve oil, drawn butter, flavored. Fill the cavity in the egg with either of these 
mixtures, or any similar preparation. Press the halves together, roll twice in 
beaten egg and bread-crumbs, and dip into boiling lard. When the color rises 
delicately, drain them and they are ready for use. 

OMELETS. 
In making an omelet, care should be taken that the omelet pan is hot and 
dry. To ensm-e this, put a small quantity of lard or suet into a clean frying- 
pan, let it simmer a few minutes, then remove it; wipe the pan dry with a 
towel, and then put in a tablespoonful of butter. The siaaoothness of the pan is 
most essential, as the least particle of roughness wOl cause the omelet to stick. 
As a general rule, a small omelet can be made more successfully than a large 
one, it being much better to make two small ones of foiur eggs each, than to tiy 
double the number of eggs in one omelet and fail. Allow one egg to a person in 
making an omelet and one tablespoonful of milk; this makes an omelet more 
puffy and tender than one made without milk. Many prefer them without 
milk. 

Omelets are called by the name of what is added to give them flavor, as 
14 



204 EGGS. 

minced ham, salmon, onions, oysters, etc., beaten up in the eggs in due quan. 
tity, -which gives as many different kinds of omelets. 

They are also served over many kinds of thick sauces or purees, such as 
tomatoes, spinach, endive, lettuce, celery, etc. 

If vegetables are to be added, they should be aheady cooked, seasoned and 
hot; place in the centre of the omelet, just before turning; so with mushroom, 
shrimps, or any cooked ingredients. All omelets should be served the moment 
they are done, as they harden by standing, and care taken that they do not cooh 
too much. 

Sweet omelets are generally used for breakfast or plain desserts. 

PLAIN OMELET. 

Put a smooth, clean, iron frying-pan on the fire to heat; meanwhile, beat 
four eggs, very light, the whites to a stiff froth, and the yolks to a thick batter. 
Add to the yolks four tablespoonfuls of milk, pepper and salt; and lastly stir in 
the whites hghtly. Put a piece of butter nearly half the size of an egg into the 
heated pan; tm-n it so that it will moisten the entire bottom, taking care that it 
does not scorch. Just as it begins to boil, pour in the eggs. Hold the fryijig- 
pan handle in your left hand, and, as tae eggs whiten, carefully, with a spoon, 
draw up lightly from the bottom, letting the raw part run out on th6 pan, 
till all be equally cooked; shake with your left hand, till the omelet be free from 
the pan, then turn with a spoon one half of the omelet over the other; let it 
remain a moment, but continue shaking, lest it adhere; toss to a warm platter 
held in the right hand, or lift with a flat, broad shovel; the omelet will be firm 
around the edge, but creamy and hght inside. 

MEAT OR FISH OMELETS. 

Take cold meat, fish, game or poultry of any kind; remove all sb'n, sinew, 
etc., and either cut it small or pound it to a paste in a mortar, together with a- 
proper proportion of spices and salt; then either toss it in a buttered frying-pan 
over a clear fire tiU it begins to brown, and pour beaten eggs upon it, or beat it 
up. with the eggs, or spread it upon them after they have begun to set in the 
pan. In any case serve hot, with or without a sauce; but garnished with crisp 
herbs in branches, pickles, or sliced lemon. The right proportion is one table- 
spoonful of meat to four eggs. A little milk, gravy, water, or white wine, may 
be advantageously added to the eggs while they are being beaten. 

Potted meats make admirable omelets in the above manner. 



EGGS, 205 

VEGETABLE OMELET. 

Make a pur6e by mashing up ready-dressed vegetables, together with a little 
milk, cream or gravy, and some seasoning. The most suitable vegetables are 
cucumbers, artichokes, onions, sorrel, green peas, tomatoes, lentils, mushrooms, 
asparagus tops, potatoes, truffles or turnips. Prepare some eggs by beating 
them very hght. Pour them into a nice hot frying-pan, containing a spoonful 
of butter; spread the puree upon the upper side; and when perfectly hot, turn 
or fold the omelet together and serve. Or cold vegetables may be merely chopped 
small, then tossed in a httle butter, and some beaten and seasoned eggs poured 
over. 

OMELET OF HERBS. 

Parsley, thyme, and sweet marjoram mixed gives the famous omelette aux 
fines herbes so popular at every wayside inn in the most remote comer of sunny 
France. An omelet " jardiniere " is two tablespoonfuls of mixed parsley, onion, 
chives,, shalots and a few leaves each of sorrel and chevril, minced fine and 
stirred into the beaten eggs before cooking. It will take a little more butter to 
fry it than a plain one. 

CHEESE OMELET. 

Beat up three eggs, and add to them a tablespoonful of milk and a table- 
spoonful of grated cheese; add a little more cheese before folding; turn it out 
on a hot dish; grate a httle cheese over it before serving. 

ASPARAGUS OMELET. 

Boil with a httle salt, and until about half cooked, eight or ten stalks of 
asparagus, and cut the eatable part into rather small pieces; beat the eggs, and 
mix the asparagus with them. Make the omelet as above directed. 

Omelet with pai-sley is made by adding a httle chopped parsley. 

TOMATO OMELET. No. 1. 
Peel a couple of tomatoes, which spbt into four pieces; remove the seeds, and 
cut them into small dice; then f 17 them with a, little butter until nearly done, 
adding salt and pepper. Beat the eggs and mix the tomatoes with them, and 
make the omelet as usual. Or, stew a few tomatoes in the usual wa^ and spread 
over before folding 

TOMATO OMELET. No. 2. 
Cut in shces and place in a stew-pan six peeled tomatoes; add a tablespoonful 
of cold water, a little pepper, and salt. When they begin to simmer, break in 



2o6 EGGS. 

six eggs, stir well, stirring one way, until the eggs are cooked, but not too hard. 
Serve warm. 

RICE OMELET. 
Take a cupful of cold boiled rice, turn over it a cupful of warm milk, add a 
tablespoonful of butter melted, a level teaspoonful of salt, a dash of pepper; 
mix well, tnen add three well-beaten eggs. Put a tablespoonful of butter in a 
hot frying-pan, and when it begins to boil pour in the omelet and set the pan 
in a hot xDven. As soon as it is cooked through, fold it double, turn it out on a 
hot dish, and serve at once. Very good. 

HAM OMELET. 

Cut raw ham into dice, fry with butter, and when cooked enough, turn the 
beaten egg over it, and cook as a plain omelet. 

If boiled ham is used, mince it, and mix with the eggs after they are beaten. 
Bacon may be used instead of raw ham. 

CHICKEN OMELET. 

Mince rather fine one cupful of cooked chicken, warm in a teacupful of 
cream or rich milk, a tablespoonful of butter, salt and pepper; thicken with a 
large tablespoonful of flour. Make a plain omelet, then add this mixture, just 
before turning it over. This is much better than the dry minced chicken. 
Tongue is equaUy good. 

MUSHROOM OMELET 

Clean a cupful of large button mushrooms, canned ones may be used; cut 
them into bits. Put into a stew-pan an ounce of butter and let it melt; add the 
mushrooms, a teaspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonful of pepper, and half a cupful 
of cream or milk. Stir in a teaspoonful of flour, dissolved in a little milk or 
water to thicken, if needed. Boil ten minutes, and set aside until the omelet is 
ready. 

Make a plain omelet the usual way, and just before doubling it, turn the 
mushrooms over the centre and serve hot. 

OYSTER OMELET 

Parboil a dozen oysters in their own liquor, skim them out, and let them 
cool; add them to the beaten eggs, either whole or minced. Cook the same as 
a plain omelet. 

Thicken the liquid with butter rolled in flour; season with salt, aiyenne 
pepper and a teaspoonful of chopped parsley. Chop up the oysters and add to 



EGGS 207 

the sauce. Put a few spoonfuls in the centre of the omelet before folding; when 
dished, pour the remainder of the sauce around it. 

FISH OMELET. 

Make a plain omelet, and when ready to fold, spread over it fish pi-epared as 
follows: Add to a cupful of any kind of cold fish, broken fine, cream enough to 
moisten it, seasoned with a tablespoonful of butter; then pepper and salt to taste. 
Warm together. 

ONION OMELET. 

Make a plain omelet, and when ready to turn spread over it a teaspoonful 
each of chopped onion and minced parsley; then fold, or, if prepared, mix the 
minces into the eggs before cooking. 

JELLY OMELET. 
Make a plain omelet, and just before folding together, spread with some kind 
of jelly. Turn out on a warm platter. Dust it with powdered sugar. 

BREAD OMELET No. I. 
Break four eggs into a basin and carefully remove the treadles; have ready a 
tablespoonful of grated and sifted bread; soak it in either milk, water, cream, 
white wine, gravy, lemon-juice, brandy or rum, according as the omelet is 
intended to be sweet or savory. Well beat the eggs together with a little nut- 
meg, pepper and salt; add the bread, and, beating constantly (or the omelet will 
be crumbly), get ready a frying-pan, buttered and made thoroughly hot; put in 
the omelet; do it on one side only; turn it upon a dish, and fold it double to 
prevent the steam from condensing. Stale sponge-cake, grated biscuit, or 
pound cake, may replace the bread for a sweet omelet, when pounded loaf sugar 
should be sifted over it, and the dish decorated with lumps of ciurant jelly. This 
makes a nice dessert. 

BREAD OMELET. No. 2. 

Let one teacup of milk come to a boil, pour it over one teacupful of bread- 
crumbs and let it stand a few minutes. Break six eggs into a bowl, stir (not 
beat) till well mixed; then add the milk and bread, season with pepper and salt, 
mix all well together and turn into a hot frying-pan, containing a large spocJnful 
of butter boiling hot. Fry the omelet slowly, and when brown on the bottom 
cut in squares and turn again, fry to a delicate brown and serve, h 

Cracker omelet may be made by substituting three or four rolled crackers in 
place of bread. 



2o8 EGGS. 

BAKED OMELET. 

Beat the whites and yolks of four or six eggs separately; add to the yolks a 
small cup of milk, a tablespoonful of flour or cornstarch, a teaspoonful of baking 
powder, one-half teaspoonful of salt, and lastly, the stiff-beaten whites. Bake 
in a weU buttered pie-tin or plate, about half an hour in a steady oven. 

It should be served the moment it is taken from the oven, as it is Uable to fall 

OMELET SOUFFLE. 

Break six eggs into separate cups; beat four of the yolks, mix with them one 
teaspoonful of flour, three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, very little salt. 
Flavor with extract lemon or any other of the flavors that may be preferred. 
Whisk the whites of six eggs to a firm froth; mix them lightly with the yolks; 
pour the mixture into a greased pan or dish; bake in a quick oven. When well* 
risen and lightly browned on the top, it is done; roll out in warm dish, sift pul- 
verized sugar over, and send to table. 

RUM OMELET. 

Put a small quantity of lard into the pan; let it simmer a few minutes, and 
remove it; wipe the pan dry with a towel, and put in a little fresh lard in which 
the omelet may be fried. Care should be taken that the lard does not burn, 
which would spoil the color of the omelet. Break three eggs separately; put 
them into a bowl and whisk them thoroughly with a fork. The longer they 
are beaten, the lighter will the omelet be. Beat up a teaspoonful of milk with 
the eggs and continue to beat until the last moment before pouring into the pan, 
which should be over a hot fire. As soon as the omelet sets, remove the pan 
from the hottest part of the fire. Slip a knife under it to prevent sticking to the 
pan. . When the centre is almost firm, slant the pan, work the omelet in shap6 
to fold easily and neatly, and when slightly browned, hold a platter against the 
edge of the pan and deftly turn it out on to the hot dish. Dust a liberal quan- 
tity of powdered sugar over it, and singe the sugar into neat stripes with a hot 
iron rod, heated in the coals; pour a glass of warm Jamaica rum around it, and 
when it is placed on the table set fire to the rum. With a tablespoon dash the 
burning rum over the omelet, put out the fire and serve. Salt mixed with the 
eggs prevents them from rising, and when it is so used the omelet will look 
flabby, yet without salt it will taste insipid. Add a little salt to it just before 
folding it and turning out on the dish. 

—''The Cook." 



HAM SANDWICHES. 

Make a dressing of half a cup of butter, one tablespoonful of mixed mustard, 
one of salad oil, a little red or white pepper, a pinch of salt and the" yolk of an 
egg; rub the butter to a cream, add the other ingredients and mix thoroughly; 
then stir in as much chopped ham as will make it consistent, and spread between 
thin slices of bread. Omit salad oil and substitute melted butter, if preferred. 

HAM SANDWICHES, PLAIN. 
Trim the crusts from thin slices of bread; butter them, and lay between every 
two some thin slices of cold, boiled ham. Spread the meat with a little mustard, 
if liked 

CHICKEN SANDWICHES. 

Mince up fine any cold boiled or roasted chicken; put it into a sauce- pan with 
gravy, water or cream enough to soften it; add a good piece of butter, a pinch 
of pepper; work it very smooth while it is heating until it looks almost like a 
paste. Then spread it on a plate to cooL Spread it between slices of buttered 
bread. 

SARDINE SANDWICHES. 

Take two boxes of sardines, and throw the contents into hot water, having 
first drained away all the o\L A few minutes will free the sardines from grease. 
Pour away the water and dry the fish in a cloth; then scrape away the skins, 
and pound the sardines in a mortar till reduced to paste; add pepper, salt, and 
Bome tiny pieces of lettuce, and spread on the sandwiches, which have been pre- 
viously cut as above. The lettuce adds very much to the flavor of the sardines. 

Or chop the sardines up fine and squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice into them 
and spread between buttered bread or cold biscuits. 



2 1 SAND WICHES. 

WATERCRESS SANDWICHES. 

Wash well some watercress, and then dry them in a cloth, pressing out every 

atom of moisture, as far as possible; then mix with the cresses hard-boiled eggs 

chopped fine, and seasoned with salt and pepper. Have a stale loaf and some 

fresh butter, and with a sharp knife, cut as many thin slices as will be required 

for two dozen sandwiches; then cut the cress into small pieces, removing the 

stems; place it between each slice of bread and butter, with a slight sprinkling 

of lemon-juice; press down the slices hard, and cut them sharply on a board into 

small squares, leaving no crust. 

— Nantasket Beach. 

EGG SANDWICHES. 

Hard boil some very fresh eggs, and when cold, cut them into moderately 
thin slices, and lay them between some bread and butter cut as thin as possible; 
season them with pepper, salt and nutmeg. 'For picnic parties, or when one is 
travelling, these sandwiches are far preferable to hard-boiled eggs au naturel. 

MUSHROOM SANDWICHES. 

Mmce beef tongue and boiled mushrooms together, add French mustard, and 
spread between buttered bread. 

CHEESE SANDWICHES. 

These are extremely nice, and are very easily made. Take one hard-boiled 
egg, a quarter of a pound of common cheese grated, half a teaspoonful of salt, 
half a teaspoonful of pepper, half a teaspoonful of mustard, one tablespoonful of 
melted butter, and one tablespoonful of vinegar or cold water. Take the yolk 
of the egg and put it into a small bowl and crumble it down, put into it the 
butter and mix it smooth with a spoon, then add the salt, pepper, mustard, and 
the cheese, mixing each well. Then put in the tablespoonful of vinegar, which 
^viM make it the proper thickness. If vinegar is not relished, then use cold 
water Instead. Spread this between two biscuits or pieces of oat-cake, and you 
could. not require a better -sandwich. Some people will prefer the sandwiches 
less highly seasoned. In that case, season to taste. 




Among all civilized people bread has become an article of food of the first 
necessity; and properly so, for it constitutes of itself a complete life sustainer, 
the gluten, starch and sugar which it contains representing ozotized and hydro- 
carbonated nutrients, and combining the sustaining powers of the animal and 
vegetable kingdoms in one product. As there is no one article of food that 
enters so largely into our daily fare as bread, so no degree of skill in preparing 
other articles can compensate for lack of knowledge in the art of making good, 
palatable and nutritious bread. A little earnest attention to the subject will 
enable any one to comprehend the theory, and then ordinary care in practice will 
make one familiar with the process. 

GENERAL DIRECTIONS. 

The first thing required for making wholesome bread is the utmost cleanli- 
ness; the next is the soundness and sweetness of all the ingredients used for it; 
and, in addition to these, there must be attention and care through the whole 
process. 

Salt is always used in bread-making, not only on account of its flavor, which 
destroys the insipid raw state of the flour, but because it makes the dough rise 
better. 

In mixing with milk, the milk should be boiled — not simply scalded, but 
heated to boiling over hot water — then set aside to cool before mixing. Simple 
heating will not prevent bread from turning sour in the rising, while boiling will 
act as a preventive. So the milk should be thoroughly scalded, and should be 
used when it is just blood warm. 

Too small a proportion of yeast, or insufficient time allowed for the dough to 
rise, will cause the breeid to be heavy. 

The yeast must be good and fresh if the bread is to be digestible and nice. 
Stale yeast produces, instead of vinous fermentation, an acetous fermentation, 



2 1 2 BREAD, 

which flavors the bread and makes it disagreeable. A poor, thin yeast produces 
an imperfect fermentation, the result beiug a heavy unwholesome loaf. 

If either the sponge or the dough be permitted to overwork itself— that is to 
Bay, if the mixing and kneading be neglected when it has reached the proper 
point for either — sour bread will probably be the consequence in warm weather, 
and bad bread in any. The goodness will also be endangered by placing it so 
near a fii'e as to make any part of it hot, uistead of maintaining the gentle and 
equal degree of heat required for its due fermentation. 

Heavy bread will also most likely be the result of m.aking the dough very 
hard, and letting it become quite cold, particularly in winter. 

An almost certain way of spoiling dough is to leave it half-made, and to 
allow it to become cold before it is finished. The other most common causes of 
failure are using yeast which is no longer sweet, or which has been frozen, or 
has had hot liquid poured over it. 

As a general rule, the oven for baking bread should be rather quick, and the 
heat 60 regulated as to penetrate the dough without hardening the outside. The 
oven-door should not be opened after the bread is put in until the dough is set 
or has become firm, as the cool air admitted will have an unfavorable effect on it. 

The dough should rise and the bread begin to brown after about fifteen 
minutes, but only slightly. Bake from fifty to sixty minutes, and have it 
brown, not black or whitey brown, but brown all over when well baked. 

When the bread is baked, remove the loaves immediately from the pans, 
and place them where the air will circulate freely around them and thus carry 
off the gas which has been formed, but is no longer needed. 

Never leave the bread in the pan or on a pine table to absorb the odor of the 
Avood. If you like crusts that are crisp do not cover the loaves; but to give the 
soft, tender, wafer-like consistency which many prefer, wrap them, while still 
hot, in several thicknesses of bread-cloth. When cold put them in a stone jar, 
removing the cloth, as that absorbs the moisture and gives the bread an unpleasant 
taste and odor. Keep the jar well covered, and carefully cleansed from crumbs 
and stale pieces. Scald and dry it thoroughly every two or three days. A yard 
and a half square of coarse table linen makes the best bread-cloth. Keep in good 
supply; use them for no other purpose. 

Some people use scalding water in making wheat bread ; in that case the flour 
must be scalded and allowed to cool before the yeast is added, — then proceed as 
above. Bread made in this manner keeps moist in summer, much longer than 
when made in the usual mode. 

Home-made yeast is generally preferred to any other. Compressed yeast, as 



BREAD. 2 1 3 

now sold in most grocery stores, makes fine light, sweet bread, and is a much 
quicker process, and can always be had fresh, being made fresh every day. 

WHEAT BREAD. 

Sift the flour into a large bread-pan or bowl; make a hole in the middle of it, 
and pom" in the yeast in the ratio of half a teacupful of yeast to two quarts of 
flour; stir the yeast hghtly, then pour in your " wetting," either milk or water, 
as you choose,— which use warm in winter, and cold in summer; if you use 
water as " wetting," dissolve in it a bit of butter of the size of an egg,— if you 
use milk, no butter is necessary; stir in the " wetting " very lightly, but do not 
mix all the flour into it; then cover the pan with a thick blanket or towel, and 
set it, in winter, in a warm place to rise, — this is called "putting the bread in 
sponge.^ ^ In summer the bread should not be wet over night. In the morning 
add a teaspoonful of salt and mix all the flour in the pan with the sponge, 
kneading it well; then let it stand two hours or more until it has risen quite 
light; then remove the dough to the molding-board and mold it for a long 
time, cutting it in pieces and molding them together again and again, until the 
dough is elastic imder the pressure of your hand, using as httle flour as possible; 
then make it into loaves, put the loaves into baking-tins. The loaves should 
come half-way up the pan, and they should be allowed to rise imtil the bulk is 
doubled. When the loaves are ready to be put into the oven, the oven should 
be ready to receive them. It should be hot enough to brown a teaspoonful of 
flour in five minutes. The heat should be greater at the bottom than at the top 
of the oven, and the fire so arranged- as to give sufficient strength of heat 
through the baking without being replenished. Let them stand ten or fifteen 
minutes, prick them three or four times with a fork, bake in a quick oven from 
forty-five to sixty minutes, 

K these directions are followed, you wiU obtain sweet, tender and wholesome 
bread. If by any mistake the dough becomes sour before you are ready to bake 
it, you can rectify it by adding a Httle dry supercarbonate of soda, molding the 
dough a long time to distribute the soda equally throughout the mass. All 
bread is better, if naturally sweet, without the soda; but soicr bread you should 
never eat, if you desire good health. 

Keep well covered in a tin box or large stone crock, which should be wiped 
out every day or two, and scalded and dried thoroughly in the sun once a week. 

COMPRESSED YEAST BREAD. 
Use foi' two loaves of bread three quarts of sifted flom-, nearly a quart of 
warm water, a level tablespoonful of salt, and an oimce of compressed yeast. 



214 BREAD. 

Pissolve the yeast in a pint of lukewarm water; then stir into it enough-flour to 
make a thick batter. Cover the bowl containing the batter or sponge with a 
thick folded cloth, and set it in a warm place to rise; if the temperature of heat 
is properly attended to, the sponge will be foamy and light in half an hour. 
Now stir into this sponge the salt dissolved in a httle warm water, add the rest 
of the flour and sufficient warm water to make the dough stiff enough to knead; 
then knead it from five to ten minutes, divide it into loaves, knead again each 
loaf and put them into buttered baking-tins; cover them with a doubled thick 
cloth, and set again in a warm place to rise twice their height, then bake the 
same as any bread. This bread has the advantage of that made of home-made 
yeast as it is made inside of three hours, whereas the other requires from twelve 
to fomleen hours. 

HOME-MADE YEAST. 

Boil six large potatoes in three pints of water. Tie a handful of hops in a 
small muslin bag and boil with the potatoes; when thoroughly cooked drain the 
water on enough flour to make a thin batter; set this on the stove or range and 
scald it enough to cook the flour, (this makes the yeast keep longer); remove it 
from the fire, and when cool enough, add the potatoes mashed, also half a cup 
of sugar, half a tablespoonful of ginger, two of salt and a teacupful of yeast. 
Let it stand in a warm place until it has thoroughly risen, then put it in a large 
mouthed jug, and cork tightly; set away in a cool place. The jug should be 
ecalded before putting in the yeast. 

Two-thirds of a coffeecupful of this yeast will make four loaves. 

UNRIVALED YEAST. 
On one morning boil two ounces of the best hops in four quarts of water half 
an hour; strain it, and let the Uquor cool to the consistency of new milk; then 
put it in an earthen bowl, and add half a cupful of salt, and half a cupful of 
brown sugar; beat up one quart of flour with some of the hquor; then mix all 
well together, and let it stand tiU the third day after; then add six medium- 
sized potatoes, boiled and mashed through a colander; let it stand a day, then 
strain and bottle, and it is fit for use. It must be stirred frequently while it is 
making, and kept near a fire. One advantage of this yeast is its spontaneous 
fermentation, requiring the help of no old yeast; if care be taken to let it fer- 
ment well in the bowl, it may immediately be corked tightly. Be careful to 
keep it in a cool place. Before using it shake the bottle up well. It will keep 
in a cool place two months, and is best the latter part of the time. Use about 
the same quantity as of other yeast 



BREAD. 215 

DRIED YEAST OR YEAST CAKES. 

Make a pan of yeast the same as " Home-made Yeast;" mix in with it corn- 
meal that has been sifted aiirl dried, kneading it well uutil it is thick enough to 
roll out, when it can be cut into cakes or crumble up. Spread out and dry thor- 
oughly in the shade; keep in a diy place. 

When it is convenient to get compressed yeast, it is much better and cheaper 
than to make your own, a saving of time and trouble. Almost all groceries keep 
it, delivered to them fresh made daily. 

SALT-RAISING BREAD. 

"While getting breakfjist in the morning, as soon as the tea-kettle has boiled, 
take a quart tin cup or an earthen quart milk pitcher, scald it, then fill one-third 
full of water about as warm as the finger could be held in; then to this add a! 
teaspoouful of salt, a pinch of brown sugar and coarse flour enough to make a 
batter of about the right consisteucy for griddle -cakes. Set the cup, with the 
spoon in it, in a closed vessel half-fiiled with water, moderately hot, but not 
scalding. Keep the ten^perature as nearly even as possible, and add a teaspoon- 
ful of flour once or twice during the process of fermentation. The yeast ought 
to reach to the top o£ the bowl in about five hoius. Sift your flour into a pan, 
make an opening in the centre, and pour in your yeast. Have ready a pitcher 
of warm milk, salted, or milk and water, (not too hot, or you will scald the yeast 
germs,) and stir rapidly into a^pulpy mass with a spoon. Cover this sponge 
closely, and keep warm for an hour, then knead into loaves, adding flour to 
make the proper consistency. Place in warm, well-greased pans, cover closely, 
and leave till it is light. Bake ui a steady oven, and when done let all the hot 
steam escape. Wrap closely in damp towels, and keep in closed earthen jars 
until it is wanted. 

This in our grandmothers' time used to be considered the prize bread, on 
account of its being sweet and wholesome, and required no prepared yeast to 
make it. Nowadays yeast-bread is made with very little trouble, as the yeast 
can be procured at almost any groceiy. 

BREAD FROM MILK YEAST. 

At noon the day before baking, take half a cup of corn-meal, and pour over 
it enough sweet milk boiling hot to make it the thickness '.of batter-cakes. In 
the winter place it where it will keep warm. The next morning before break- 
fast DOur into a pitcher a pint of boiling water; add one teaspoonful of soda and 



2 1 BREAD. 

one of salt. When cool enough so that it will not scald the flour, add enough to 
make a stiff batter; then add the cup of meal set the day before. This will bo 
full of little bubbles. Then place the pitcher in a kettle of warm water, cover the 
top with a folded towel and put it where it will keep warm, and you will be sur- 
prised to find how soon the yeast will be at the top of the pitcher. Then pour 
the yeast into a bread-pan; add a pint and a half of warm water, or half water 
and half milk, and flour enough to knead into loaves. Knead but little 
harder than for biscuit, and bake as soon as it rises to the top of the tin. This 
recipe makes five large loaves. Do not allow it to get too light before baking, 
for it will make the bread dry and crumbling. A cup of this milk yeast is excel- 
lent to mise buckwheat cakes. 

GRAHAM BREAD. 

One teacupful of wheat flour, one-half teacupful of Porto Rico molasses, one 
half cupful of good yeast, one teaspoonful of salt, one pint of warm water; add 
sufficient Graham flour to make the dough as stiff as can be stirred with a 
strong spoon; this is to be mixed at night; in the morning, add one teaspoonful 
of soda, dissolved in a Uttle water; mix well, and pour into two medium-sized 
pans; they will be about half fuU; let it stand in a warm place until it rises to 
the top of the pans, then bake one hour in a pretty hot oven. 

This should be covered about twenty minutes when fibrst put into the oven 
with a thick brown paper, or an old tin cover; it prevents the upper, crust 
hardening befor.e the loaf is well- risen. If these directions are correctly fol- 
lowed the bread will not be heavy or sodden, as it has been tried for years and 
never failed. 

GRAHAM BREAD (Unfermented.) 

Stir together three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking powder, three cups of 
Graliam flour, and one cup of wliite flour; then add a large teaspoonful of salt 
and half a cup of sugar. Mix all thoroughly with milk or water into as stiff a 
batter as can be stirred with a spoon. If water is used, a lump of butter as large 
as a walnut may be melted and stirred into it. Bake immediately in well- 
greased pans 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD. 

One pint of rye flour, one quail of corn-meal, one teacupful of Graham flour, 
all fresh; half a teacupful of molasses or brown sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, and 
two-thirds of a teacupful of home-made yeast. Mix into as stiff a dough as can 
be stirred with a spoon using warm water for wetting. Let it rise several hours, 



BREAD. 217 

or over night; in the morning, or when light, add a teaspoonful of soda dis' 
solved in a spoonful of warm water; beat it well and turn it into well-gieased, 
deep, bread -pans, and let it rise again. Bake in a moderate oven from three to four 

hours. 

— Palmer House, Chicago 

BOSTON BROWN BREAD. (Unfermented). 

One cupful of rye flour, two cupfuls of corn-meal, one cupful of white flour, 
half a teacupful of molasses or sugar, a teaspoonful of salt. Stir all together 
thoroughly, and wet up with sour milk; then add a level teaspoonfiil of soda dis- 
solved in a tablespoon ful of water. The same can be made of sweet milk, by 
substituting baking-powder for soda. The batter to be stirred as thick as can be 
with a spoon, and turned into well greased pans. 

VIRGINIA BROWN BREAD. 

One pint of corn-meal, pour over enough boiling water to thoroughly scald it; 
when cool, add one pint of light, white bread sponge, mix well together, add one 
cupful of molasses, and Graham flour^enough to raol(5; this will make two 
loaves; when light, bake in a moderate oven one and a half hours. 

RHODE ISLAND BROWN BREAD. 
Two and one-half cupfuls of corn-meal, one and one-half cupfuls of rye-meal, 
one egg, one cup of molasses, two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar, one teaspoon- 
ful of soda, a little salt and one quart of milk. Bake in a covered dish, either 
earthen or iron, in a 'moderately hot oven three hours. 

STEAMED BROWN BREAD. 

One cup of white flour, two of Gmham flour, two of Indian meal, one tea- 
spoonful of soda, one cup of molasses, three and a half cups of milk, a little salt. 
Beat well and steam for four hours. This is for sour milk; when sweet milk 
is used, use baking powder in place of soda. 

This is improved by setting it into the oven fifteen minutes after it is slipped 
from the mold. To be eaten warm with butter. Most excelleut. 

RYE BREAD. 

To a quart of. warm water stir as much wheat flour as will make a smooth 
batter; stir into it half a giU of home-made yeast, and set it in a warm place to 
rise; this is called setting a sponge; let it be mixed in some vessel, which will 
contain twice the quantity; in the morning, put three pounds and a half of rye 



2l8 BREAD. 

flour into a bowl or tray, make a hollow in the centre, pour in the sponge, add a 
dessertspoonful of salt, and half a small teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in 
a little water; make the whole into a smooth dough, with as much warm water 
as may be necessary; knead it well, cover it, and let it set in a warm place for 
three hours; then knead it again, and make it into two or three loaves; bake in 
a quick oven one hour, if made in two loaves, or less if the loaves are smaller. 

RYE AND CORN BREAD. 

One quart of rye meal or rye flour, two quarts of Indian meal, scalded (by 
placing in a pan and pouring over it just enough boiling water to merely wet it, 
but not enough to make it into a batter, stirring constantly with a spoon), one- 
half cup of molasses, two teaspoonfuls salt, one teacup yeast; make it as stiff as 
can be stirred with a spoon, mixing with warm water, and let rise all night. In 
the morning add a level teaspoonful of soda dissolved in a httle water; then put 
it in a large pan, smooth the top with the hand dipped in cold water; let it stand 
a short time, and bake five or six hours. If put in the oven late in the day, let 
it remain all night. 

Graham may be used instead of rye, and baked as above. 

This is similar to the *' Rye and Injun " of our grandmothers' days, but that 
was placed in a kettle, allowed to rise, then placed in a covered iron pan upon 
the hearth before the fire, with coals heaped upon the lid, to bake all night. 

FRENCH BREAD. 

Beat together one pint of milk, four tablespoonfuls of melted butter, or half 
butter and half lard, half a cupful of yeast, one teaspoonful of salt and two eggs. 
Stir into this two quarts of flour. When this dough is risen, make into two 
large rolls, and bake as any bread. Cut across the top diagonal gashes just be- 
fore putting into the oven. 

TWIST BREAD. 

Let the bread be made as directed for wheat bread, then take three pieces as 
large as a pint bowl each ; strew a little flour over the paste-board or table, roll 
each piece under your hands, to twelve inches length, making it smaller in cir- 
cumference at the ends than in the middle; having rolled the three in this way, 
take a baking-tin, lay one part on it, join one end of each of the other two to it, 
and braid them together the length of the rolls, and join the ends by pressing 
them together; dip a brush in milk, and pass it over the top of the loaf; after 
ten minutes or bo, set it in a quick oven, and bake for nearly an hour. 



BREAD. 219 

. NEW ENGLAND CORN CAKE. 

One quart of milk, one pint of corn-meal, one teacupful of wheat flour, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Scald the milk, and grad- 
ually pour it on the meal; when cool, add the butter and salt, also a half cup of 
yeast. Do this at m'ght; in the morning beat thoroughly and add two well- 
beaten eggs, and a half teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a spoonful of water. 
Poiu: the mixture into buttered deep earthen plates, let it stand fifteen minutes 
to rise again, then bake from twenty to thirty minutes. 

GERMAN BREAD. 
One pint of milk well -boiled, one teacupful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of 
nice lard or butter, two-thirds of a teacupful of baker's yeast. Make a rising 
with the milk and yeast; when light, mix in the sugar and shortening, with 
flour enough to make as soft a dough as can be handled. Flour the paste-board 
well, roU out about one half inch thick; put this quantity into two large pans; 
make about a dozen indentures with the finger on the top; put a small piece of 
butter in each, and sift over the whole one tablespoonful of sugar mixed with 
one teaspoonful of cinnamon. Let this stand for a second rising; when per- 
fectly light, bake in a Quick oven fifteen or twenty noinutes. 

CORN BREAD. 
Two cups of sifted meal, half a cup of flour, two cups of sour milk , two well- 
beaten eggs, half a cup of molasses or sugar, a teaspoonful of salt, two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter. Mix the meal and flour smoothly and gradually 
with the milk, then the butter, molasses, and salt, then the beaten eggs, and 
lastly dissolve a level teaspoonful of baking-soda in a little millc and beat thor- 
oughly aU together. Bake nearly an hour in weU-buttered tins, not very shallow. 
This recipe can be made with sweet milk by using baking-powder in place of soda. 

— St. Charles Hotel, New Orleans. 

VIRGINIA CORN BREAD. 

Three cups of white com- meal, one cup of flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, 
one teaspoonful of salt, two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one table- 
spoonful of lard, three cups of milk and three eggs. Sift together the flour, com, 
meal, sugar, salt and baking-powder; rub in the lard cold, add the eggs weU- 
beaten and then the milk. Mix into a moderately stiff batter'; pour it into 
well-greased, shallow baking-pans, (pie-tins are suitable) Bake from thirty to 
forty minutes. 

15 



220 BREAD. 

BOSTON CORN BREAD. 

One cup of sweet milk, two of sour milk, two-thirds of a cup of molasses, 
one of wheat flour, four of corn-meal and one teaspoonful of soda; steam for 
three hours, and brown a few minutes in the oven. The same made of sweet 
milk and baking-powder is equally as good. 

INDIAN LOAF CAKE. 

Mix a teacupful of powdered white sugar with a quart of rich milk, and cut 
up in the milk two ounces of butter, adding a saltspoonful of salt. Put this 
mixture into a covered pan or skillet, and set it on the fire till it is scalding hot. 
Then take it off, and scald ^vith it as much yellow Indian meal (previously sifted) 
as will make it of the consistence of thick boiled mush. Beat the whole very 
hard for a quarter of an hoiir, and then set it away to cool. 

While it is cooUng, beat three eggs very hght, and stir them gradually into 
the mixture when it is about as warm as new milk. Add a teacupful of good 
strong yeast, and beat the whole another quarter of an hour, for much of the 
goodness of this cake depends on its being long and weU-beaten. Then have 
ready a tin mold or earthen pan with a pipe in the centre, (to diffuse the heat 
through the middle of the cake). The pan must be very well-buttered, as Indian 
meal is apt to stick. Put in the mixture, cover it, and set it in a warm place to 
rise. It should be light in about four hours. Then bake it two hours in a 
moderate oven. When done, turn it out with the broad surface downwards, 
and send it to table hot and whole. Cut it into shces and eat it with butter. 

This Mall be fomid an excellent cake. If wanted for breakfast, mix it, and 
set it to rise the night before. If properly made, standing aU night wiU not 
injure it. Like all Indian cakes, (of which this is one of the best), it should be 

eaten warm. 

— SI. Charles Hotel, New Orleans. 

JOHNNIE CAKE. 

Sift one quart of Indian meal into a pan; make a hole in the middle and pour 

in a pint of warm water, adding one teaspoonful of salt; with a spoon mix the 

meal and water gradually into a soft dough; stir it very briskly for a quarter of 

an hour or more, till it becomes hght and spongy; then spread the dough smooth 

and evenly on a straight, flat board (a piece of the head ,of a flour-barrel will 

serve for this purpose); place the board nearly upright before an open fire, and 

put an iron against the back to support it; bake it well; when don6, cut it in 

squares; send it hot to table, split and buttered. 

— Old Plantation Style. 



BREAD—BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC, 221 

SPIDER CORN-CAKE. 

Beat two eggs and one-fourth cup sugar together. Then add one cup sweet 
milk, and one cup of sour milk in which you have dissolved one teaspoonful 
soda. Add a teaspoonful of salt. Then mix one and two-thirds cups of granu- 
lated corn-meal and one-third cup flour with this. Put a spider or skillet on the 
range, and when it is hot melt in two tablespoonfuls of butter. Turn the spider 
so that the butter can run up on the sides of the pan. Pour in the corn-cake 
mixture and add one more cup of sweet milk, but do not stir afterwards. Put 
this in the oven and bake from twenty to thirty-five minutes. When done, there 
should be a streak of custard through it. 

SOUTHERN CORN-MEAL PONE OR CORN DODGERS. 

Mix with cold water into a soft dough one quart of southern corn-meal, 
sifted, a teaspoonful of salt, -a tablespoonful of butter or lard melted. Mold 
into oval cakes with the hands and bake in a veiy hot oven, in well-gi-eased 
pans. To be eaten hot. The crust should be brown. 

RAISED POTATO-CAKE. 

Potato-cakes, to be served with roast lamb or with game, are made of equal 
quantities of mashed potatoes and of flour, say one quart of each, two table- 
spoonfuls Of butter, a little salt, and milk enough to make a batter as for griddle- 
cakes; to this allow half a teacupful of fresh yeast; let it rise till it is light and 
bubbles of air form; then dissolve half a teaspoonful of soda in a spoonful of 
warm water and add to the batter; bake in muffin tins. These are good also 
with fricasseed chicken; take them from the tins and drop in the gravy just 
before sending to the table. 



Biscuits, IR0U6, HDuffins, Etc. 

GENERAL SUGGESTIONS. 

In making batter cakes, the ingredients sliould be put together overnight to 
rise, and the eggs and butter added in the morning; the butter melted and eggs 
weU-beaten. If the batter appears sour in the least, dissolve a little soda and 
stir into it; this should be done early enough to rise some time before baking. 

Water can be used in place of millc in all raised dough, and the dough should 
be thoroughly hght before making into loaves or biscuits; then when molding 



22 2 BREAD^BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

them, use as little flour as possible; the kneading to be clone when first niade 
from the sponge, and should be done weU and for some length of time, as this 
makes the pores fine, the bread cut smooth and tender. Care should be taken 
not to get the dough too stiff. 

Where any recipe calls for baking-powder, and you do not have it, you can 
use cream-tartar and soda, in the pronortion of one level teasnoonful of soda to 
two of cream- tartar. 

When the recipe calls for sweet milk or cream, and you do not have it, you 
may use in place of it sour milk or cream, and, in that case, baking-powder or 
cream of tartar must not be used, but baking-soda, using a level teaspoonful to 
a, quart of sour milk; the milk is always best when just turned, so that it is 
solid, and not soiir enough to whey or to be wateiy. 

When making biscuits or bread with baking-powder or soda and cream 
tartar, the oven should be prepared first; the dough handled quickly and put 
into the oven immediately, as soon as it becomes the proper lightness, to ensure 
good success. If the oven is too slow, the article baked will be heavy and hard. 

As in beating cake, never stir ingredients into batter, but beat them in, by 
beating down from the bottom, and up, and over again. This laps the air into 
the batter, which produces little air-cells and causes the dough to puff and sweU 
as it comes in contact with the heat while cooking. 

TO RENEW STALE ROLLS. 

To freshen stale biscuits or rolls, put them into a steamer for ten minutes, 
then dry them off in a hot oven; or dip each roll for an instant in cold water and 
heat them crisp in the oven. 

WARM BREAD FOR BREAKFAST. 

Dough, after it has become once sufficiently raised and perfectly hght, cannot 
afterwards be injured by setting aside in any cold place where it caimot freeze; 
therefore, biscuits, roUs, etc., can be made late the day before wanted for break- 
fast. Prepare them ready for baking by molding them out late in the evening; 
lay them a little apart on buttered tins; cover the tins with a cloth, then fold 
around that a newspaper, so as to exclude the air, as that has a tendency to 
cause the crust to be hard and thick when baked. The best place in summer 
is to place them in the ice-box, then all you have to do in the morning (an hour 
before breakfast time, and while the oven is heating) is to bring them from 
the ice-box, take off the cloth and warm it, and place it over them again; then 
set the tins in a warm place near the fire. This will grive them time to rise and 



B READS ISCV ITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 223 

bake when needed, K these directions are followed rightly, you will find it 
makes no difference with their lightness and goodness, and you can always be 
sure of warm raised biscuits for breakfast in one hour's time. 

Stale rolls may be made light and flakey by dipping for a moment in cold 
water, and placing immediately in a very hot oven to be made crisp and hot. 

SODA BISCUIT. 

One quart of sifted flour, one teaspoonf ul of soda, two teaspoonfuls of cream 
tartar, one teaspoonf ul of salt; mix thoroughly, and rub in two tablespoonfuls 
of butter, and wet with one pint of sweet milk. Bake in a quick oven. 

BAKING-POWDER BISCUIT. 

Two pints of flour, butter the size of an &%%, three heaping teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder, and one teaspoonful of salt; make a soft dough of sweet milk or 
water, knead as httle as possible, cut out with the usual biscuit-cutter and bake 
in rather a quick oven. 

SOUR MILK BISCUIT. 

Rub into a quart of sifted flour a piece of butter the size of an o^^'g, one tea. 
spoonful of salt; stir into this a pint of sour milk, dissolve one teaspoonful of 
soda, and stir into the mUk just ^as you add it to the flour; knead it up quickly, 
roll it out nearly haK an inch thick, and cut out with a biscuit-cutter; bake im- 
mediately in a quick oven. 

Very nice biscuit may be made with sour cream without the butter by the 
same process. 

RAISED BISCUIT. 

Sift two quarts of flour in a mixing-pan, make a hole in the middle of the 
flour, pour into this one pint of warm water or new milk, one teaspoonful of 
salt, half a cup of melted lard or butter, stir in a httle flour, then add half a cup- 
ful of yeast, after which stir in as much flour as you can conveniently with 
your hand, let it rise over night; in the morning add nearly a teaspoonful of 
soda, and more flour as is needed to make a rather soft dough; then mold fif- 
teen to twenty minutes, the longer the" better; let it rise until hght again, roU 
this out about half an inch thick, and cut out with a biscuit-cutter, or make it 
into little balls with yom* hands; cover and set in a warm place to rise. When 
Ught, bake a hght brown in a moderate oven. Rub a httle warm butter or sweet 
lard on the sides of the biscuits when you place them on the tins, to prevent 
their sticking together when baked. 



224 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFI.XS, ETC. 

LIGHT BISCUIT. No. i. 

Take a piece of bread dough that will make about as many biscuits a«> you 
"wish; lay it out rather flat iu a bowl; break into it two eggs; half a cup of 
sugar, half a cup of butter; mix this thoroughly with enough flour to keep it 
from sticking to the hands and board. Knead it well for about fifteen or twenty 
minutes, make into small biscuits, place in a greased pan, and let thera rise until 
about even with the top of the pan. Bake in a quick oven for about half an 
hour. 

These can be made in the form of rolls, which some prefer. 

LIGHT BISCUIT. No. 2. 

When you bake take a pint of sponge, one tablespoonful of melted butter, 
one tablespoonful of sugar, the white of one egg beaten to a foam. Let rise un 
til light, mold into biscuits, and when light bake. 

GRAHAM BISCUITS, WITH YEAST. 

Take one pint of water or milk, one large tablespoonful of butter, two table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, a half cup of yeast, and a pinch of salt; take enough wheat 
flour to use up the watei-, making it the consistency of batter-cakes; add the rest 
of the ingredients and as nmch Graham flom- as can be stirred in with a spoon; 
set it away till morning; in the morning, grease a pan, flour your hands, take a 
lump of dough the size of an egg, roll it hgh My between the palms of your 
hands, let them rise twenty minutes, and bake in a tolerably hot oven, 

EGG BISCUIT. 
Sift together a quart of dry flour and three heaping teaspoonf uls of baking- 
powder. Rub into this thoroughly a piece of butter the size of an egg; add two 
weU-beaten eggs, a tablespoonful of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt. Mi:s all to- 
gether quickly into a soft dough, ■with oiie cup of milk, or more if needed. Roll 
out nearly half of an inch thick. Cut into biscuits, and bake immediately in a 
quick oven from fifteen to twenty minutes. 

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS. 

One pint of milk, boiled and cooled; a piece of butter the size of an egg; one- 
half cupful of fresh yeast; one tablespoonful of sugar, one pinch of salt, and two 
quarts of sifted flour. 

Melt the butter in the warm milk, then add the sugar, salt and flour, and let 
it rise over night. Mix rather soft. In the morning, add to this haK of a tea- 



BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 225 

spoonful of soda dissolved in a spoonful of water. Mix in enough flour to make 
the same stiffness as any biscuit dough; roll out not more than a quarter of an 
inch thick. Cut with a large rouaad cutter; spread soft butter over the tops and 
fold one-half over the other by doubling it. Place them apart a Httle so that 
there will be room to rise. Cover, and place them near the fire for fifteen or 
twenty minutes before baking. Bake in rather a quick oven. 

PARKER HOUSE ROLLS. (Unfermented.) 

These roUs are made with baking-powder, and are much sooner made, although 
the preceding recipe is the old original one from the "Parker House." Stir 
into a quart of sifted flour three large teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, a table- 
spoonful of cold butter, a teaspoonful of salt and one of sugar, and a well-beaten 
egg; rub aU weU into the flour, pour in a pint of cold milk, mix up quickly into 
a smooth dough, roll it out less than half an inch thick, cut with a large biscuit- 
cutter, spread soft butter over the top of each, fold one half over the other by 
doubling it, lay them a Mttle apart on greased tins. Set them immediately in a 
pretty hot oven. Rub over the tops with sweet milk before putting in the oven, 
to give them a glaze. 

FRENCH ROLLS. 
Three cups of sweet milk, one cup of butter and lard, mixed in equal propor- 
tions, one-half cup of good yeast, or half a cake of compressed yeast, and a tea- 
spoonful of salt. Add flour enough to make a stiff dough. Let it rise over 
night; in the morning, add two well-beaten eggs; knead thoroughly, and let it 
rise again. With the hands, make it into balls as large as an Qg%\ then roll be- 
tween the hands to make long rolls, (about three inches.) Place close together 
in even rows on well-buttered pans. Cover and let them rise again, then bake 
in a quick oven to a delicate brown. 

BEATEN BISCUIT. 

Two quarts of sifted flour, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of sweet lard, 
one egg; make up with half a pint of milk, or, if milk is not to be had, plain 
water will answer; beat weU until the dough blisters and cracks; pull off a two- 
inch square of the dough; roU it into a ball with the hand; flatten, stick with a 
fork, and bake in a quick oven. 

It is not beating hard that makes the biscuit nice, but the regularity of the 
motion. Beating hard, the old cooks say, kills the dough. An old-fashioned. 
Southern recipe. 



225 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

POTATO BISCUIT. 

BoiT six good- sized potatoes with their jackets on; take them out "with a 
skimmer, drain and squeeze with a towel to ensiire being dry; then remove the 
skin, mash them perfectly free from lumps, add a tablespoonful of butter, one 
egg, and a pint of sweet milk. When cool, beat in half a cup of yeast. Put in 
just enough flour to make a stiff dough. When this rises, make into small 
cakes. Let them rise the same as biscuit and bake a delicate brown. 

This dough is very fine, dropped into meat soups for pot-pie. 

VINEGAR BISCUITS. 
Take two quarts of flour, one large tablespoonful of lard or butter, one table- 
spoonful and a half of vinegar and one teaspoonful of soda; put the soda in the 
vinegar and stir it well; stir in the flour; beat two eggs very light and add to it; 
make a dough with warm water stiff enough to roll out, and cut with a 
biscuit-cutter one inch thick, and bake in a quick oven. 

GRAFTON MILK BISCUITS. 

Boil and mash two white potatoes; add two teaspoonfuls of brown sugar; 
pour boiling water over these, enough to soften them. When tepid, add one 
small teacupful of yeast; when light, warm three ounces of butter in one pint of 
milk, a httle salt, a third of a teaspoonful of soda, and flour enough to make stiff 
sponge; when risen, work it on the board; put it back in the tray to rise again; 
when risen, roU into cakes, and let them stand half an hour. Bake in a quick 
oven. These biscuits are fine. 

SALLY LUNN. 

Warm one- half cupful of butter in a pint of milk; add a teaspoonful of salt, 
a tablespoonful of sugar, and seven cupfuls of sifted flour; beat thoroughly, and 
when the mixtiu-e is blood warm, add four beaten eggs, and last of aU, half a 
cup of good hvely yeast. Beat hard until the batter breaks in bhsters. Set it to 
rise over night. In the morning, dissolve half a teaspoonful of soda, stir it into 
the batter and turn 't into a well-buttered, shallow dish to rise again about fif- 
teen or twenty minutes. Bake about fifteen to twenty minutes. 

The cake should be torn apart, not cut; cutting with a knife makes warm 
bread heavy. Bake a hght brown. This cake is frequently seen on Southern 
tables. 

SALLY LUNN. (Unfermented.) 

Rub a piece of butter as large as an egg into a quart of floiu"; add a tumbler 
of milk, two eggs, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, three teaspoonfuls of baking 



BJiE AD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 227 

powdei, and a teaspoooful of salt. Scatter the baking-powder, salt and sugar 
into the flour; add the eggs, the butter, melted, the milk. Stir all together, and 
bake in well-greased round pans. Eat warm with butter. 

LONDON HOT-CROSS BUNS 

Three cups of milk, one cup of yeast, or one cake of compressed yeajt dis- 
solved in a cup of tepid water, and flour enough to make a thick batter; set this 
as a sponge over night. In the morning, add half a cup of melted butter, one 
cup of sugar, half a nutmeg grated, one saltspoonful of salt, half a teaspoonf ul 
of soda, and flour enough to roll out Uke biscuit. Knead well and set to rise for 
five hours Roll the dough half an inch thick; cut in round cakes, and lay in 
rows in a buttered bakmg-pan, and let the cakes stand half an hour; or until 
light; then put them in the oven, having first made a deep cross on each with 
a knife. Bake a hght brown, and brush over with white of egg beaten stiff with 
powdered sugar. 

RUSKS, WITH YEAST. 

In one large coffee-cup of warm milk, dissolve half a cake of compressed 
yeast, or three tablespoonfuls of home-made yeast; to this add three well-beaten 
eggs, a small cup of sugar, and a teaspoonf ul of salt; beat these together. 
Use flour enough to make a smooth, light dough, let it stand until very hght, 
then knead it in the form of biscuits; place them on buttered tins, and let them 
rise until they are almost up to the edge of the tins; pierce the top of each one, 
and bake in a quick oven. Glaze the tops of each with sugar and mUlc, or the. 
white of an egg, before baking. Some add dried currants, weil-washed and 
dried in the oven.. 

RUSKS. 

Two cups of raised dough, one of sugar, half a cup of butter, two well-beaten 
eggs, flour enough to make a stiff dough; set to rise, and when light, mold into 
high biscuit, and let rise again; rub damp sugar and cinnamon over the top and 
place in the oven. Bake about twenty minutes. 

RUSKS. (Unfermented.) 

Three cups of flour sifted, three teaspoonf uls of baking-powder, one teaspoon- 
ful of salt, three tablespoonfuls of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter, three 
eggs, half a nutmeg grated and a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, two email 
cups of milk; sift together salt, flour, sugar and baking-powder; rub in the bui- 
tOT cold; add the milk, beaten eggs and spices; mix into a soft dough, break off 



228 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

pieces about as large as an egg, roll them under the hands into round balls, rub 
the tops with sugar and water mixed, and then sprmkle dry sugar over theni. 
Bake immediately. 

SCOTCH SCONES 

Thoroughly mix, while dry. one quart of sifted flour, loosely measm-ed, with 
two lieaping teaspoonfuls of baldng-powder; then loib into it a tablespoonful of 
cold butter, and a teaspoonful of salt. Be sure that the butter is well worked 
m. Add sweet milk enough to make a very soft paste. Roll out the paste about 
a quarter of an inch thick, using plenty of flour on the paste-board, and I'olling- 
pin. Cut it into triangular pieces, each side about four inches long. Flour the 
sides and bottom of a biscuit-tin, and place the pieces on it. Bake immediately 
in a quick oven from twenty to thirty minutes. When half done, brush over 
with sweet milk. Some cooks prefer to bake them on a floured griddle, and cut 
them a round shape the size of a saucer, then scarred across to form four 
quarters. 

CRACKNELS. 

Two cups of rich milk, four tablespoonf uls of butter and a gill of yeast, a 
teaspoonful of salt; mbc warm, add flour enough to make a light dough. When 
light, roll thin, and cut in long pieces thi-ee inches wide, prick well writh a fork, 
and bake'in a slow oven. They are to be mixed rather hard, and rolled very 
thin, hke soda crackers. 

RAISED MUFFINS. No. i. 

Make a batter of one pint of sweet milk, one teaspoonful of sugar, one of 
salt, a tablespoonful of butter or sweet lard, arid a half cup of yeast; add flour 
enough to make it moderately thick; keep it in a warm, not hot, place, untQ it is 
quite light, then stir in one or two well-beaten eggs, and half a teaspoonful of 
soda, dissolved in a httle warm water. Let the batter stand twenty-five or thirty 
minutes longer to rise a little, turn into well-greased mufifin-rings or gem-pans, 
and bake in a quick overu 

To be sei-ved hot, and torn open, instead of cut with a knife. 

RAISED MUFFINS. No. 2. 

Three pints of flour, three eggs, a piece of butter the size of an egg, two 
heaping teaspoonfuls of white sugar, one-half cake of compressed yeast, and a 
quart of milk; warm the milk with the butter in it; cool a little, stir in the 
sugar and add a little salt; stir this gradually into the flour, then add the eggs 
well- beaten; dissolve the yeast in half a cup of luke-warm water and add to the 



BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS. MUFFINS. ETC. 229 

other ingredients; if the muffins are wanted for luncheon, mix them about 
eight o'clock in the morning; if for breakfast, set them at ten o'clock at night' 
when ready for baking, stir in half a teaspoouful of soda, dissolved in a tea 
spoonful of hot water; butter the muffin-ring or gem-irons, and bake in a quic " 
oven. 

EGG MUFFINS. (Fine.) 

One quart of flour, sifted twice; three eggs, the whites and yolks beaten sep- 
arately, three teacups of sweet millc, a teaspoouful of salt, a tablespoonful of 
sugar, a large tablespoonful of laz'd or butter, and two heaping teaspoonfuls of 
baking-powder. Sift together flom-, sugai', salt and baking-powder; rub in the 
lard cold, add the beaten eggs and milk; mix quickly into a smooth batter, a 
little firmer than for griddle- cakes. Grease well some muffin-pans, and fill them 
two-thirds full. Bake in a hot oven fifteen or twenty minutes. These, made 
of cream, omitting the butter, are excellent. 

PLAIN MUFFINS. 

One Qgg, well-beaten, a tablespoonful of butter and a tablespoonful of sugar, 
with a teaspoouful of salt, all beaten until very hght. One cup of milk, three 
of sifted flour, and three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. One-half Graham and 
one-haK rye meal may be used instead of wheat flour, or two cups of corn-meal 
and one of flour. 

Drop on well-greasea patty-pans and bake twenty minutes in a rather quick 
oven, or bake on a griddle in muffin-rings. 

MUFFINS WITHOUT EGGS. 

One quart of buttermilk, a teaspoouful of soda dissolved in the milk, a' little 
salt, and flour enough to make a stiff batter. Drop in hot gem-pans and bake 
in a quick oven. Two ortlu-ee tablespoonfuls of sour cream will make them a 
little richer. 

TENNESSEE MUFFINS. 

One pint of corn-meal, one pint of flour, one tablespoonful of sugar, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, three of baking-powder, one tablespoonful of lard or butter, two 
eggs, and a pint of milk. Sift together corn-meal, flour, sugar, salt, and pow- 
der; rub in lard or butter cold, and eggs beaten and milk; mix into batter of 
consistence of cup-cake; muffin-rings to be cold and well-greased, then fill two- 
thirds full. Bake in hot oven fifteen minutes. 



230 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

CORN-MEAL MUFFINS- (Without Eggs.) 

One cup of flour, one cup of corn -meal, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, water 
to make a thick batter, or sour niiUc is better; mix at night; in the morning, 
add two tablespoonfuls melted butter, and one teaspoonful of soda; bake in 
cake rounds 

HOMINY MUFFINS. 

Two cups of boiled hominy; beat it smooth, stir in three cups of sour milk, 
half a cup of melted butter, two teaspoonfuls of salt, two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar; add three eggs well-beaten; one teaspoonful of Roda, dissolved in hot 
water; two cups of flour. Bake quickly. 

Rice muffins may be made in the same manner. 

GRAHAM GEMS. No. 1. 

Two cupfuls of Graham flour, one cupful of wheat flour, two teasp6onful& 

of baking-powder, a tablespoonful of sugar, one of salt, and one well-beaten egg. 

Mix with sweet milk to make a thin batter; beat it well. Bake in gem-irons; 

have the irons weUgreased; fill two-thiids full, and bake in a hot oven. Will 

bake in from fifteen to twenty minutes. 

GRAHAM GEMS. No. 2. 

Three cups of sour milk, one ^easpoonful of soda, one of salt, one tablespoon- 
ful of brown sugar, one of melted lard or butter, one or two beaten eggs; to the 
egg add the milk, then the sugar and salt, then the Graham flour (with the soda 
mixed in), together with the lard or butter; make a stiff batter, so that it will 
drop, not pour, from the spoon. Have the gem-pans very hot, fill and bake fif 
teen minutes in a hot oven. 

The same can be made of sweet milk, using three teaspoonfuls of baking 
powder instead of soda, and if you use sweet milk, put in no shortening. Ex 
cellent. 

Muffins of all kinds should only be cut just around the edge, then pulled 
open vsrith the fingers. 

PLAIN GRAHAM GEMS. 

Two cupfuls of the best Graham meal, two of water, fresh and cold, or milk 
and water, and a httle salt. Stir briskly for a minute or two. Have the gem- 
pan, hot and well-greased, on the top of the stove while pouring in the batter. 
Then place in a very hot oven and bake forty minutes. It is best to check the 



BREAD^BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 231 

heat a little when they are nearly done. As the hest-prepared gems may be 
spoiled if the heat is not sufficient, care and judgment must be used in order to 
secure this most healthful as well as delicious bread. 

WAFFLES. 

Take a quart of flour and wet it with a little sweet milk that has been boiled 
and cooled, then stir in enough of the milk to form a thick batter. Add a 
tablespoonful of melted butter, a teaspoonful of salt, and yeast to raise it. When 
hght, add two well-beaten eggs, heat your waffle-iron, grease it weU, and fill it 
with the batter. Two or three minutes will suffice to bake on one side; then 
turn the iron over; and when brown on both sides, the cake is done. Serve 
immediately. 

CONTINENTAL HOTEL WAFFLES. 

Put into one quart of sifted flour three teaspoonf uls of baking-powder, one 
teaspoonful of salt, one of sugar, all thoroughly stirred and sifted together; add 
a tablespoonful of melted butter, six well-beaten eggs, and a pint of sweet milk; 
cook in waffle-irons, heated and well-greased. Serve hot. 

NEWPORT WAFFLES. 

Make one pint of Indian meal into mush in the usual way. While hot, put 
in a small lump of butter, and a dessertspoonful of salt. Set the mush aside to 
cool. MeanwhUe. beat separately till very hght the whites and yolks of four 
eggs. Add the eggs to the mush, and cream in gradually one quart of wheaten 
flour. Add half a pint of buttermilk or sour cream, in which has been dissolved 
half a teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. Lastly, bring to the consistency of thin 
batter, by the addition of sweet milk. Waffle-irons should be put on to heat au 
hour in advance, that they may be in the proper condition for baking as soon 
as the batter is ready. Have a brisk fire, butter the hons thoroughly, but with 
nicety, and bake quickly. Fill the irons only half full of batter, that the waffles 
may have room to rise. 

CREAM WAFFLES. 

One pint of sour cream, two eggs, one pint of flour, one tablespoonful of corn- 
meal, one teaspoonful of soda, half a teaspoonful of salt. Beat the eggs sepa- 
rately, mix the cream with the beaten yolks, stir in the flour, corn-meal and 
salt; add the soda dissolved in a httle sweet milk, and, last, the whites beaten to 
a stiff froth. 



232 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

RICE WAFFLES. No. i. 

One quart of flour, half a teaspoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of sugar, two 
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one large tablespoonful of butter, two eggs, one 
and a half pints of milk, one cupful of hot boiled rice. Sift the flour, salt, sugar, 
and baking-powder well together; rub the butter into the flour; beat the eggs 
well, separately, and add the stiff whites last of all. 

RICE WAFFLES. No. 2. 

Rub through a sieve one pint of boiled rice, add it to a tablespoonful of dry 
flour, two-thirds of a teaspoonful of salt, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. 
Beat separately the yolks and whites of three eggs; add to the yolks a cup and 
a half of milk, work it into the flour, then add an ounce of melted but- 
ter; beat the white of eggs thoroughly; mix the whole together. Heat the 
waflle-iron and grease it evenly; pour the batter into the half of the iron over 
the range until nearly two-thirds full, cover, allow to cook a moment, then tui-n 
and brown shghtly on the other side. 

GERMAN RICE WAFFLES. 

Boil a half-pound of rice in milk until it becomes thoroughly soft. Then 
remove it from the fire, stirring it constantly, and adding, a little at a time, one 
quart of sifted flour, five beaten eggs, two spoonfuls of yeast, a half-pound of 
melted butter, a httle salt, and a teacupful of warm milk. Set the batter in a 
warm place, and when risen, bake in the ordinary way. 

BERRY TEA-CAKES. 

Nice little tea-cakes to be baked in muffin-rings are made of one cup of sugar, 
two eggs, one and a half cups of milk, one heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder, 
a piece of butter the size of an egg and flour sufficient to make a stiff batter. 
In this batter stir a pint bowl of fruit — any fresh are nice — or canned berries with 
the juice poured off. Serve while warm and they are a dainty addition to the 
tea-table. Eaten with butter. 

RYE DROP-CAKES. 

One pint of warm milk, with half a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in it, a little 
salt, four eggs, well-beaten, and rye flour enough to make a thin batter; bake 
in small cups, buttered, and in a hot oven, or in small cakes upon a hot griddle. 



BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS. ETC 233 

WHEAT DROP-CAKES. 

One pint of cream, six eggs well-beaten, a little salt, and wheat flour enough 
to make a thin batter; bake in httle cups buttered, and in a hot oven fifteen 
minutes. 

POP-OVERS. 

Two cups of flour, two cups of sweet milk, two eggs, one teaspoonful of 
butter, one teaspoonful of salt, bake in cups in a quick oven fifteen minutes. 
Serve hot with a sweet sauce. 

FLANNEL CAKES. (With Yeast.) 

Heat a pint of sweet milk, and into it put two heaping tablespoonfuls of 
butter, let it melt, then add a pint of cold milk and the well-beaten yolks of four 
eggs — placing the whites in a cool place; also, a teaspoonful of salt, four table- 
spoonfuls of home-made yeast, and sufficient flour to make a stiff batter;" set it 
in a warm place to rise; let it stand three hours or over night; before baking 
add the beaten whites; bake hke any other griddle-cakes. Be sure to make the 
batter stiff enough, for floiir must not be added after it has risen, unless it is 
allowed to rise again. These, half corn-meal and half wheat, are very nice. 

FEATHER GRIDDLE-CAKES. (With Yeast.) 

Make a batter, at night, of a pint of water or milk, a teaspoonlul of salt, and 
half a teacupful of yeast; in the morning, add to it one teacupful of thick, sour 
milk, two eggs well-beaten, a level tablespoonful of melted butter, a level tea- 
spoonful of soda, and flom- enough to make the consistency of pan-cake batter; 
let stand twenty minutes, then bake. 

This is a convenient way, when making sponge for bread over night, using 
some of the sponge. 

WHEAT GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

Three cups of flour, one teaspoonful of salt, three teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder sifted together; beat three eggs and add to thi'ee cupf uls of sweet milk, 
also a tablespoonful of melted butter; mix all into a smooth batter, as thick as 
will run in a stream from the hps of a pitcher. Bake on a well-greased, hot 
griddle, a nice, Ught brown. Very good, 

SOUR MILK GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

Make a batter of a quart of sour milk and as much sifted flour as is needed to 
thicken so that it will run from the dish; add two well-beaten eggs, a teaspoon- 



234 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

ful of salt, a tablespoonful of melted butter, and a level teaspoonful of soda dis- 
solved in a little milk or cold water, added last; then bake on a hot griddle, 
well greased, brown on both sides. 

CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE-CAKES. (With Yeast.) 
Stir into one quart of boiling milk three cups of corn-meal; after it cools, add 
one cup of white flour, a teaspoonful of salt, and three tablespoonfuls of home- 
made yeast. Mix this over night. In the morniug, add one tablespoonful of 
melted butter or lard, two beaten eggs, and a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a 
httle water. 

This batter should stand a few minutes, after adding the butter and soda, 
that it should have time to rise a httle; in the meantime, the griddle could be 
heating. Take a small stick like a good-sized skewer, wind a bit of cloth around 
the end of it, fasten it by winding a piece of thread around that and tying it 
fiiTn. Melt together a tablespoonful of butter and lard. Grease the griddle with 
this. Between each batch of cakes, wipe the griddle off with a clean paper or 
cloth, and grease afresh. Put the cakes on by spoonfuls, or pour them carefully 
from a pitcher, tiying to get them as near the same size as possible. As soon as 
they begin to bubble all over turn them, and cook on the other side till they 
stop puffing. The second lot always cooks better than the first, as the griddle 
becomes evenly heated. 

CORN-MEAL GRIDDLE-CAKES. 
Scald two cups of sifted meal, mix with a cup of wheat flour, and a teaspooQ- 
ful of salt. Add three well-beaten eggs; thin the whole with sour milk enough 
to make it the right consistency. Beat the whole till very hght, and add a tea- 
spoonful of baking-soda dissolved in a httle water. If you use sweet milk, use 
two large teaspoonfuls of baking-powder instead of soda. 

GRIDDLE-CAKES. (Very Good.) 
One quart of Graham fiom-, half a pint Of Indian meal, one gill of yeast, a 
teaspoonful of salt; mix the flour and meal, pour on enough warm water to 
make batter rather thicker than that for buckwheat cakes; add the yeast, and 
when light bake on, griddle not too hot. 

GRAHAM GRIDDLE-CAKES. 
Mix together dry two cups of Graham flour, one cup wheat fliour, two heap* 
ing teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and one teaspoonful of salt. Then add three 
eggs well-beaten, one tablespoonful of lard or butter melted, and three cups of 
sweet milk. Cook immediately on a hot fiddle. 



BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 235 

BREAD GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One quart of milk, boiling hot; two cups fine bread-crumbs, three eggs, one 
tablespoonf ul melted butter, one-half teaspoonf ul salt, one-half teaspoonful soda, 
dissolved in warm water; break the bread into the boiling milk, and let stand 
for ten minutes in a covered bowl, then beat to a smooth paste; add the yolks of 
the eggs well- whipped, the butter, salt, soda, and .finally the whites of the eggs 
previously whipped stiff, and add half of a cupful of flour. These can also be 
made of sour milk, soaking the bread in it over night, and using a h'ttle more 
soda. 

RICE GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

Two cupfuls of cold boiled rice, one pint of flom', one teaspoonful sugar, one- 
half teaspoonful salt, one and one-half teaspoonfuls baking-powder, one egg, a 
little more than half a pint of milk. Sift together flour, sugar, salt and powder; 
add rice free from lumps, diluted with beaten egg and mUk; mix into smooth 
batter. Have griddle well-heated, make cakes large, bake nicely brown, and 
fterve with maple syrup. 

POTATO GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

Twelve large potatoes, three heaping tablespoonfuls of flour, one teaspoonful 
of baking-powder, one-haK teaspoonful of salt, one or two eggs, two teacupfuls 
of boiling milk. The potatoes are peeled, washed and grated into a little cold 
water, (which keeps them white), then strain off water and pour on boiling 
milk, stir in eggs, salt and flour, mixed with the baking-powder; if agreeable, 
flavor with a httle fine chopped onion; bake Mke any other pan-cakes, allowing a 
little more lard or butter. Serve vdth stewed or preserved fruit, especially with 
huckleberries. 

GREEN CORN GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One pint of milk, two cups grated green com, a little salt, two eggs, a tea- 
spoonfxil of baking-powder, flour sufficient to make a batter to fry on the 
griddle. Butter them hot and serve. 

HUCKLEBERRY GRIDDLE-CAKES. 
Made the same as above, leaving out one cup of milk, adding one tablespoon- 
ful of iUgar, and a pint of hucklebeiTies, rolled in flour. Blackberries or rasp- 
berries can be used in the same manner. 

FRENCH GRIDDLE-CAKES. 
Beat together, until smooth, six eggs and a pint sifted flour; melt one ounce 
of butter, and add to the batter, wdth one ounce of sugar and a cup of milk: 

16 



236 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

beat until smooth; put a tablespoonful at a time into a frying-pan, slightly 
greased, spreading the batter evenly over the surface by tipping the pan about; 
fi-y to a light brown; spread with jelly, roll up, dust Avith powdered sugar and 
serve hot. 

RAISED BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

Take a small crock or large earthen pitcher, put into it a quart of warm 
water or half water and milk, one heaping teaspoonful of salt; then stir in as 
much buckwheat flour as will thicken it to rather a stiff batter; lastly add half a 
cup of yeast; make it smooth, cover it up warm to rise over night; in the morning, 
add a small, level teaspoonful of soda, dissolved iu-a httle warm water; this win 
remove any sour taste, if any, and increase the hghtness. 

Not a few object to eating buckwheat, as its tendency is to thicken the 
blood, and also to produce constipation; this can be remedied by making the 
batter one-third corn-meal and two-thirds buckwheat, which makes the cakes 
eqrally as good. Many prefer them in this way. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES WITHOUT YEAST. 

Two cups of buckwheat flour, one of wheat flour, a little salt, three tea- 
spoonfuls-baking-powder; mix thoroughly, and add about equal parts of milk 
and water until the batter is of the right consistency, then stir until free from 
lumps. If they do not brown well, add a little molasses. 

BUCKWHEAT CAKES. 

Half a pint of buckwheat flour, a quarter of a pint of corn-meal, a quarter of 
a pint of wheat flour, a httle salt, two eggs beaten veiy hght, one quart of new 
milk (made a Uttle warm, and mixed -with the eggs before the flour is put in), 
one tablespoonful of butter or sweet lard, t^vo large tablespoonfuls of yeast. Set 
it to rise at night for the morning. If in the least som-, stir in before baking 
just enough soda to correct the acidity. A very nice, but more expensive recipe. 

SWEDISH GRIDDLE-CAKES. 

One pint of white flour, sifted; six eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately 
to the utmost; one saltspoonful of salt; one saltspoonful of soda dissolved in 
vinegar; milk to make a thin batter. 

Beat the yolks light, add the salt, soda, twoxupfuls of mUk, then the flour, 
and beaten whites alternatelv; thin with more milk if necessary 



BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC, 237 

CORN-MEAL FRITTERS, 

One pint of sour milk, one teaspoonf ul of salt, three eggs, one tablespoonful 
of molasses or sugar, one handful of flour, and corn-meal enough to make a 
stiff batter; lastly, stir in a small teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little warm 
1 water. 

This recipe is very nice made of rye flour. 

CREAM FRITTERS. 
One cup of cream; five eggs — the whites only; two full cups prepared flour; 
one saltspoonful of nutmeg; a pinch of salt. Stir the whites into the cream in 
tmn with the flour, put in nutmeg and salt, beat all up hard for two minutes. 
The batter should be rather thick. Fry in plenty of hot, sweet lard, a spoonful 
of batter for each fritter. Drain, and serve upon a hot, clean napkin. Eat 
with jeUy sauce. Pull, not cut, them open. Very nice. 

CURRANT FRITTERS. 

Two cupfuls dry, fine, bread-crumbs, two tablespoonfuls of prepared flour, 
two cups of milk, one-half pound currants, washed and well-dried, five eggs 
whipped very light, one-half cup powdered sugar, one tablespoonful butter, onO' 
half teaspoonful mixed cinnamon and nutmeg. Boil the milk and pour over 
the bread. Mix and put in the butter. Let it get cold. Beat in next the yolks- 
and sugar, the seasoning, flour, and stiff whites; finally, the currants dredged 
whitely with flour. The batter should be thick. Drop in great spoonfuls into 
the hot lard and fry. Drain t>"^m and send hot to table. Eat with a mixture 
of wine and powdered sugar. 

WHEAT FRITTERS. 

Three eggs, one and a half cups of milk, three teaspoonfuls baking-powder, 
salt, and flour enough to make quite stiff, thicker than batter-cakes. Drop into 
hot lard and fry like doughnuts. 

A good Sauce for the Above.— One cup of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter, 
one teaspoonful of flour beaten together; half a cup boiling water; flavor with 
extract lemon and boU until clear. Or serve with maple syrup. 

APPLE FRITTERS. 
Make a batter in the proportion of one cup sweet milk to two cups flom-, a 
heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder, two eggs beaten separately, one table- 
spoonful of sugar and a saltspoon of salt; heat the milk a httle more than milk- 



238 BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

warm; axid it slowly to the beaten yolks and sugar; then add flour and whites 
of the eggs,; stir all together and throw in thin shces of good sour apples, dii>- 
ping the batter up over them; drop into boihng hot lard in large spoonfuls with 
pieces of apple in each, and fry to a light brown. Serve with maple syrup, or a 
nice syrup made with clarified sugar. 

Bananas, peaches, sliced oranges and other fruits can be used in the same 
batter. 

PINE-APPLE FRITTERS. 

Make a batter as for apple fritters; then pare one large pine- apple, cut it in 
shces a quarter of an inch thick, cut the slices in halves, dip them into the batter 
and fry them, and serve them as above. 

PEACH FRITTERS. 

Peel the peaches, split each in two and take out the stones; dust a httle 
powdered sugar over them; dip each piece in the batter, and fry in hot fat. A 
sauce to be served with them may be made as follows: Put an ounce of butter 
in a sauce-pan, and whisk it to a cream; add four ounces of sugar gradually. 
Beat the yolks of two eggs; add to them a dash of nutmeg and a gill each of 
cold water and iiam; stir this into the luke-warm batter, and allow it to heat 
gradually. Stir constantly until of a smooth, creamy consistency, and serve. 
The batter is made as follows: Beat the yolks of three eggs; add to them a gill 
of milk, or half of a cupful, a saltspoonful of salt, four ounces of flour; mix. If 
old flour is used, a little more milk may be found necessary. 

GOLDEN-BALL FRITTERS. 

Put into a stew-pan a pint of water, a piece of butter as large as an egg, and 
a tablespoonful of sugar. When it boils, stir into it one pint of sifted flour, 
stirring briskly and thoroughly. Remove from the fire, and when -nearly 
cooled, beat into it six eggs, each one beaten separately, and added, one at a 
time, beating the batter between each. Drop the stiff dough into boiling lard by 
teaspoon fuls. Eat with syrup; or melted sugar and butter flavored 

Stirring the boiling lard around a.nd around, so that it whirls when you 
drop in the fritters, causes them to assume a round shape like balls. 

CANNELONS, OR FRIED PUFFS. 

Half a pound of puff paste; apricot, or any kmd of preserve that may be 
preferred; hot lard. 

Cannelons, which are made of puff-paste, rolled very thin, with jam en- 
closed, and cut out in long, narrow rolls or puffs, make a very pretty and 



BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 239 

elegant dish. Make some good puff paste, roll it out very thin, and cut it into 
pieces of an equal size, about two inches wide and eight inches long; place upon 
each piece a spoonful of jam, wet the edges with the white of egg. and fold the 
paste over twice; slightly press the edges together, that the jam may not escape 
in the frying; and when all are prepared, fry them in boiling lard until of a nice 
brown, letting them remain by the side of the fire after they are colored, that 
the paste may be thoroughly done. Drain them before the fire, dish on a 
d oyley, sprinkle over them sifted sugar, and serve. These cannelons are very 
delicious made with fresh, instead of preserved fruit, such as strawberries, rasp- 
berries, or cuirants; they should be laid in the paste, plenty of pounded sugar 
sprmkled over, and folded and fried in the same manner as stated above. 

G-ERMAN FRITTERS. 

Take slices of stale bread cut in rounds, or stale cake; fry them in hot lard, 
like crullers, to a /zjy/if browTi. Dip each slice when fried in boihng milk, to 
remove the grease; drain quickly, dust with powdered sugar, or spread with 
preserves. Pile on a hot plate, and serve. Sweet wine sauce poured over thero 
is veiy nice. 

HOMINY FRITTERS. 

Take one pint of hot boiled hominy, two eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt, and 
a tablespoonful of flom-; thin it a httle with cold milk; when cold, add a tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder, mix thorouglily, drop tablespoonf uls of it into hot 
fat and fry to a dehcate brown. 

PARSNIP FRITTERS. 

Take three or four good-sized parsnips. Boil them until tender. Mash anu 
season with a little butter, a pinch of salt and a sUght sprinMing of pepper. 
Have ready a plate with some sifted flour on it. Drop a tablespoonful of the 
parsnip in the flour and roll it about until well-coated and formed into a ball. 
When you have a sufficient number ready, drop them into boihng drippings or 
lard, as. you would a fritter; fry a dehcate brown, and serve hot. Do not put 
tliem in a covered dish, for that would steam them and deprive them of their 
crispiiess, which is one of their gi-eat charms. 

These are 'also very good fried in a frying-pan with a small quantity of lard 
and butter mixed, turning them over so as to fi;y both sides brown. 

GREEN-CORN FRITTERS. 
One pint of grated, young and tender, green com, tlu-ee eggs, two tablespoon- 
fuls of milk or cream, one tablespoonful of melted butter, if milk is used, a tea 



240 BREAD— BISCUITS, kOLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

spoonful of salt. Beat the eggs well, add the corn by degrees, also the milk and 
butter; thicken with just enough flour to hold them together, adding a tea- 
spoonful of baking-powder to the flour. Have ready a kettle of hot lard, drop 
the corn from the spoon into the fat and fry a light brown. They are also nice 
tried in butter and lard mixed, the same as fried eggs. 

CREAM SHORT-CAKE. 

Sift one quart of fiiie white flour, rub into it three tablespoonfuls of cold 
butter, a teaspoonful of salt, a tablespoonful of white sugar. Add a beaten egg 
to a cup of sour cream, turn it into the other ingredients, dissolve a teaspoonful 
of soda in a spoonful of water, mix all together, handling as little as possible; 
roll lightly into two round sheets, place on pietins, and bake from twenty to 
twenty-five minutes in a quick oven. 

This crust is delicious for fruit short-cakes. 

STRAWBERRY SHORT-CAKE. 

Make a rule of baking-powder biscuit, with the exception o-f a little more 
shortening; divide the dough in half; lay one -half on the molding-board, (half 
the dough makes one short-cake), divide this half again, and roll each piece large 
enough to cover a biscuit-tiu, or a large-sized pie-tin; spread soft butter over the 
lower one, and place the other on top of that; proceed with the other lump of 
dough the same, by cutting it in halves, and putting on another tin. Set them 
in the oven; when sufficiently baked take them out, separate each one by run- 
ning a large knife through where the cold soft butter was spread. Then butter 
plentifully each crust, lay the bottom of each on earthern platters or dining* 
plates; cover thickly with a quart of strawberries that have been previously pre- 
pared with sugar, lay the top crusts on the fruit. If there is any juice left, 
pour it around the cake. This makes a delicious short-cake. 

Peaches, raspberries, blackberries, and huckleben-ies can be substituted for 
Btrawbemes. Always send to the table with a pitcher of sweet cream. 

ORANGE SHORT-CAKE. 
Peel two large oranges, chop them fine, remove the seeds, add half a peeled 
lemon, and one cup of sugar. Spread between the layers of short-cake while 
it is hot. 

LEMON SHORT-CAKE. 

Make a rich biscuit dough, same as above recipe. "While baking, take a cup 
and a quarter of water, a cup and a half of sugarr and two lemons, peel, juice 
and pulp, throwing away the tough part of the rind; boil this for some little 



BREAD— BISCUITS. ROLLS, MUfflNS^ETC 24 1 

time; then stir in three crackers rolled fine; split the shortcakes while hot, 
spread with butter, tlieu with the mixture. To be eaten warm. 

HUCKLEBERRY SHORT-CAKE, 
Twocupfuls of sugar, half a cupful of butter, one pint of s^'eet milk, one 
tablespoonful of salt, two heapmg teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, sifted into a 
quart of flour, or enough to form a thick batter; add a qua it of the huckleberries; 
to be baked in a dripper; cut into squares for the table, aud served hot with 
butter. Blackberries may be used the same. 

FRIED DINNER-ROLLS. 

When making bght raised bread, save out a piece of dough nearly the size 
of a small loaf, roll it out on the boaid, spread a tablespoonful of melted butter 
over it; dissolve a quarter of a teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of water, 
and pour that also over it; work it all well into the dough, roll it out into a sheet, 
not quite half an inch thick. Cut it in strips three inches long and one inch vdde. 
Lay them on buttered tins, cover with a cloth, and set away in a cool place 
until an hour before dinner-time; then set them by the fire where they will 
become light. While they are rising, put into a fiying-pau a tablespoonful of 
cold butter and one of lard; when it boils clear and is hot, lay as many of the 
rolls in as wiU fry nicely. As soon as they brown on one side, turn thera over 
and brown the other; then turn thera on the edges and brown the sides. Add 
fresh grease as is needed. Eat them warm in place of bread. Nice with warm 
meat dinner. 

NEWPORT BREAKFAST-CAKES. 

Take one quart of dough from the bread, at an early hour in the mormng; 
break three eggs, separating yolks and \vhites, both to be whipped to a light 
froth: mix thera into the dough, and gi-adually add two tablespoonfuls of melted 
butter, one of sugar, one teaspoonful of soda, and enough warm milk with it 
until it is a batter the consistency of buckwheat cakes; beat it well, and let it 
rise imtil breakfast-time. Have the griddle hot and nicely greased, pour on the 
batter in small round cakes, and bake a light brown, the same as any griddle- 
rake. 

PUFF BALLS. 

A piece of butter as large as an egg, stined until soft; add three weU-beateil 
eggs, a pinch of salt, and half a teacupful of sour cream. Stir well together, 
then add enough flour to make a very thick batter. Drop a spoonful of this 
into boiling water. Cook until the puffs rise to the surface. Dish them hot 



242 BREAD— BISCUITS. ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

with melted butter turned over them. Nice accompamraent to a meat dimier 
as a side-dish — similar to plain maccaroni. 

BREAKFAST PUFFS. 
Two cups of sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, one teaspoonful of salt, one 
egg and flour enough to roll out like biscuit dough. Cut into narrow strips, an 
inch wide, and three inches long; fry brown in hot lard, like doughnuts. Serve 
hot; excellent with coffee. Or, fry in a spider with an ounce each of lard and 
butter, turning and browning all four of the sides. 

ENGLISH CRUMPETS. 

One quart of warm milk, half a cup of yeast, one teaspoonful of salt, floui 
enough to make a stiff batter; when hght, add half a cupful of melted butter, a 
teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a little water, and a very little more flour; let 
it stand twenty minutes or until hght. Grease some muffin rings, place them 
on a hot griddle, and fill them half full of the batter; when done on one side, 
turn and bake the other side. Butter them while hot; pile one on another, 
and serve immediately. 

PLAIN CRUMPETS. 

Mix together thoroughly, while dry, one quart of sifted flour, loosely measured, 
two heaping teaspoonfuls baking-powder, and a little salt; then add two table- 
spoonfuls of melted butter, and sweet mUk enough to make a thin dough. Bake 
quickly in mufi&n-rings or patty-pans. 

PREPARED BREAD-CRUMBS. 
Take pieces of stale bread, break tham in small bits, put them on a baking- 
pan and place them in a moderate oven, watching closely that they do not 
scorch; then take them while hot and crisp and roll them, crushing them. Sift 
them, using the fine crumbs for breading cutlets, fish, croquettes, etc. The 
coarse ones may be used for puddings, pan -cakes, etc. 

CRACKERS. 

Sift into a pint of flour a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder, four table- ; 
spoonfuls of melted butter, half a teaspoonful salt and the white of an egg 
beaten, and one cup of milk; mix it with more flour, enough to make a very 
stiff dough, as stiff as can be rolled out; pounded and kneaded a long time. , 
Roll very thin, like pie-crust, and cut out either round or square. Bake a light '; 
brown. 



BREAD—BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 243 

Stale crackei-s are made crisp and better by placing them in the ovpx\. a few- 
moments before they are needed for the table, 

FRENCH CRACKERS. 

Six eggs, twelve tabiespoonfuls of sweet milk, six tablespoonfuls of butter, 
half a teaspoonful of soda; mold with flour, pouudiug and working half an 
hour; roll it thm. Bake with rather quick fire. 

CORN-MEAL MUSH OR HASTY PUDDING. 

Put two quarts of water into a clean dinner-pot or stew-pan, cover it, and 
let it become boiling hot over the fire; then add a tablespoonful of salt, take off 
the hght scum from the top, have sweet, fresh yellow or white cora-meal; take 
a handful of the meal with the left hand, and a pudding-stick in the right, then 
with the stick, stir the water around, and by degrees let fall the meal; when 
one handful is exhausted, refill it; continue to stir and add meal until it is as 
thick as you can stir easily, or until the stick will stand in it; stir it a while 
longer; let the fire be gentle; when it is sufficiently cooked, which will be in half 
an hour, it will bubble or puff up; turn it into a deep basin. This is eaten cold or 
hot, with milk or with butter, and syrup or sugar, or with meat and gravy, 
the same as potatoes or rice. 

FRIED MUSH. 

Make it like the above recipe, turn it into bread-tins, and when cold slice it, 
dip each piece in flour and fry it in lard and butter mixed in the frying-pan^ 
turning to brown well both sides. Must be served hot. 

GRAHAM MUSH. 
Sift Graham meal slowly into boilmg salted water, stuTing briskly until thick 
as can be stirred with one hand; serve with milk or cream and sugar, or butter 
and syiup. It will be improved by removing from the kettle to a pan, as soon 
as thoroughly mixed, and steaming three or four hours. It may also be eaten 
cold, or sUced and fried, like corn-meal mush. 

OATMEAL. 
Soak one cup of oatmeal in a quart of water over night, boil half an hour in 
the morning, salted to taste. It is better to cook it in a dish set into a dish of 
boihng water. 

RICE CROQUETTES 
Boil for thirty minutes one cup of well- washed rice, in a pint of milk; whip 
into the hot rice the following ingredients: Two ounces of butter, two ounces 



244 BREAD- BISCUITS. ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. 

of sugar, sonic salt, and wheu slightly cool add the yolKs of two eggs well 
beaten; if too stiff pour in a little more miJk; when cold, roll into small balls 
and dip in beaten eggs, roll in fine cracker or bread-crumbs, and fry same a? 
doughnuts. Or they may be fried in the fiying-pan, with a tablespoonful each 
of butter and lard mixed, turning and frying both sides brown. Serve very hot. 

HOMINY 
This form of cereal is very little known and consequently little appreciated in 
most Northern households. "Big hominy" and "little hominy," as they are 
called in the South, are staple dishes there and generally take the place of oat- 
meal, which is apt to be too heating for the climate. The former is called 
" samp " here. It must be boiled for at least eight hours to be properly cooked, 
and may then be kept on hand for two or three days and warmed over, made 
into croquettes or balls, or fried in cakes. The fine hominy takes two or three 
hours for proper cooking, and should be cooked in a dish set into another of 
hoiling water, and kept steadily boiling until tho)'Oughly soft. 

HOMINY CROQUETTES. 

To a cupful of cold boiled hominy, add a teaspoonful of melted butter, and 
stir it well, adding by degrees a cupful of milk, till all is made into a soft, light 
paste; add a teaspoonful of white sugar, a pinch of salt, and one well-beaten 
egg. Roll it into oval balls with floured hands, dipped in beaten egg, then rolled 
in cracker-crumbs, and fry in hot lard. 

The hominy is best boiled the day or morning before using. 

BOILED RICE 

Take half or quarter of a pound of the best quality of rice; wash it in a 
strainer, and put it in a sauce-pan, with a quart of clean water and a pinch of 
salt; let it boil slowly till the water is all evaporated — see that it does not burn 
— then pour in a teacupful of new milk; stir carefully from the bottom of the 
6auce-pan, so that the upper grain may go under, but do not smash it; close 
the lid on your sauce-pan carefully down, and set it on a cooler part of the fire, 
where it will not boil; as soon as it has absorbed the added milk, serve it up 
with fresh new milk, addmg fruit and sugar for those who hke them. 

Another nice way to cook rice is to take one teacupful of rice and one 
quart of milk, place in a steamer, and steam from two to three hours; when 
nearly done, stir in a piece of butter as large as the yolk of an egg, and a pinch 
of salt. You can use sugar if you like. The difference in the time of cooking 
depends on your rice — the older the rice, the longer time it takes to cook. 



BREAD— BISCUITS, ROLLS, MUFFINS, ETC. ' 245 

SAMP, OR HULLED CORN. 

An old-fashioned way of preparing hulled corn was to put a peclr of old, 
dry, ripe corn into a pot filled with water, and with it a bag of hard- wood ashes, 
say a quart. After soaking awhile it was boiled until the skins or hulls came 
off easily. The corn was then washed in cold water to get rid of the taste of 
potash, and then boiled until the kernels were soft. Another way was to take 
the lye from the leaches where potash was made, dilute it, and boil the corn 
in this until the skin or hull came off. It makes a dehcious dish, eaten with milk 
or cream. 

CKACKED WHEAT. 

Soak the wheat over night in cold water, about a quart of water to a cup of 
wheat; cook it as directed for oatmeal; should be thoroughly done. Eaten with 
sugar and cream. 

OAT FLAKES. 

This healthful oat preparation may be procured from the leading grocers, 
and is prepared as follows: Put into a double sauce-pan Or porcelain-lined pan 
a quart of boihng water, add a saltspoouful of salt, and when it is boiling, add, 
or rather stir in gradually, three ounces of flakes. Keep stirring to prevent 
burning. Let it boil from fifteen to twenty minutes, and serve with cream 
and sugar. 

Ordinary oatmeal requires two hours' steady cooking to make it palatable and 
digestible. Wheaten grits and hominy, one hour, but a half hour longer cooking 
will not injure them, and makes them easier of digestion. Never be afraid of 
cooking cereals or preparations from cereals too long, no matter what the directions 
on the package may be. 

STEAMED OATMEAL. 

To one teacupful -oatmeal add a quart of cold water, a teaspoonful of salt; 
put in a steamer over a kettle of cold water, gradually heat and steam an hour 
and a half after it begins to cook. 

HOMINY. 

Hominy is a preparation of Indian com, broken or ground, either large or 
small, and is an excellent breakfast dish in winter or summer. Wash the 
hominy thoroughly, in one or two waters, then cover it with twice its depth. of 
cold water, and let it come to a boil slowly. If it be the large hominy, simmer 
six hours; if the small hominy, simmer two hours. When the water evaporates, 
add hot water; when done, it may be eaten with cream, or allowed to become 
cold and warmed_up in the frying-pan, using a Uttle butter to prevent burning. 



246 BREAD—TOAST. 



tCoaet 

Toast should be made of stale bread, or at least of bread that has been baked 
a day. Cut smoothly in slices, not more than half an inch thick; if the crust is 
baked very hard, trim the edges and brown very evenly, but if it happens to 
bum, that should be scraped off. Toast that is to be served with anything 
turned over it, should have the shoes first dipped quickly in a dish of hot water 
turned from the boiling tea-kettle, with a httle salt thrown in. Cold biscuits 
cut in halves, and the under crust shced off, then browned e^^enly on both sides, 
make equa,lly as good toast. The following preparations of toast are almost aU 
of them very nice dishes, served with a family breakfast. 

MILK TOAST. 

Put over the fire a quart of milk, put into it a tablespoonful of cold butter, 
stir a heaping teaspoonful of flour into half a gill of milk^ as soon as the milk 
on the fire boils, stir in the flouj, add a teaspoonful of salt; let aU boil up once, 
remove from the fire, and dip in this slices of toasted bread. When all are 
used up, pour what is left of the scalded miUc over the toast. Cover, and send 
to the table hot. 

CREAM TOAST. 

Heat a pint of milk to boUing, and add a piece of butter the size of an egg; 
stir a tablespoonful of flour smoothly into a cup of rich cream, and add some of 
the bofling milk to this; heat it gradually and prevent the flour from lumping; 
then stir mto theboihng millc,-and let it cook a few moments: salt to taste. 
After taking from the fire stir in a beaten egg; strain the mixture en to toast 
lightly buttered. 

AMERICAN TOAST. 

To one egg thoroughly beaten, put one cup of sweet milk, and a little salt. 
Shoe light bread and dip into the mixture, allowing each slice to absorb some of 
the milk; then brown on a hot, buttered griddle or thick-bottom frying-pan; 
spread with butter, and serve hot, 

NUNS' TOAST. 

Cut four or five hard-boiled eggs into shcfis. Put a piece of butter half the 

size of an egg into a sauce-pan, and when it begins to bubble add a finely 

chopped onion. Let the onion cook a Uttle without taking color, then stir in a 

teaspoonful of fiour. Add a cupful of milk, and stir until it becomes smooth; 



BREAD— TOAST. 247 

then put in the slices of eggs and let them get hot. Pour over neatly trimmed 
slices of hot buttered toast. The sauce must be seasoned to taste with pepper 
and. salt. 

CHEESE TOAST. No. i. 
Toast thin shces of bread an even, crisp brovm. Place on a warm plate, 
allowing one small slice to each person, and pour on enough melted cheese to 
cover them. Eich new cheese is best. Serve while warm. Many prefer a httle 
prepared mustard spread over the toast before putting on the cheese. 

CHEESE TOAST. No. 2. 

Put half an ounce of butter in a frying-pan; when hot, add gradually four 
ounces of mild American cheese. Whisk it thoroughly until melted. Beat 
together half a pint of cream and two eggs; whisk into the cheese, add a little 
gait, pour over the crisp toast, and serve. 

The two above recipes are usually called " Welsh Rarebit." 

OYSTER TOAST. 

Select the large ones, used for frying, and first dip them in beaten QZ'g, then 
in either cracker or bread-crumbs, and cook upon a fine wire gridiron, over a 
quick fire. Toast should be made ready in advance, and a rich cream sauce 
T)oured over the whole. After pouring on the sauce, finely cut celery strewn 
over the top adds to their delicacy. 

Or, wash oysters in the shell, and put them on hot coals, or upon the top of 
a hot stove, or bake them in a hot oven; open the shells with an oyster-knife, 
taking care to lose none of the liquor. Dip the toast into hot, salted water 
quickly, and turn out the oyster and liquor over the toast; season with salt and 
pepper, and a teaspoonful of melted butter over each. 

Oysters steamed in the shell are equally as good. 

MUSHROOMS ON TOAST. 

Peel a quart of mushrooms, and cut off a httle of the root end. Melt an 
ounce of butter in the frying pan, and fry in it half a pound of raw minced steak; 
add two saltspoonfuls of salt, a pinch of cayenne, and a gill of hot water; fry 
until the juices are extracted from the meat; tilt the pan and squeeze the meat 
with the back of the spoon until there is nothing left but dry meat, then remove 
it; add the mushrooms to the hquid, and if there is not enough of it, add more 
butter; toss them about a moment and pour out on hot toast. 

Some add a httle sherry to the dish before removing from the fire. 



248 BREAD— TOAST. 

TOMATO TOAST. 

Pare and stew a quart of ripe tomatoes until smooth. Season with salt, 
pepper and a tablespoonful of butter. When done, add one cup sweet cream 
and a little flour. Let it scald but not boil; ^-emove at once. Pom- over slices 
of dipped toast, weU-buttered. 

EGGS ON TOAST. 

Various preparations of eggs can be served on toast, first dipping slices of 
well-toasted bread quickly in hot salted water, then turning over them scrambled, 
poached or creamed eggs, all found in the recipes among " Eggs," 

BAKED EGGS ON TOAST. 

Toast six slices of stale bread, dip them in hot salted water and butter them 
lightly. After arranging them on a platter or deep plate, break enough eggs to 
cover them, breaking one at a time, and slip over the toast so that they do not 
break; sprinkle over them salt and pepper, and turn over all some kind of thick- 
ened gravy — either chicken or lamb, cream or a cream sauce made the same as 
" White Sauce "; turn this over the toast and eggs, and bake in a hot oven until 
the eggs are set, or about five minutes. Serve at once. 

HAM TOAST. 
Take a quarter of a pound of either boiled or fried ham, chop it fine, mix it 
with the yolks of two eggs, well-beaten, a tablespoonful of butter, and enough 
cream or rich milk to make it soft, a dash of pepper. Stir it over the fbe until 
it thickens. Dip the toast for an instant in hot, salted water; spread over some 
melted butter, then turn over the ham mixture. Serve hot. 

REED BIRDS ON TOAST. 

Remove the feathers and legs of a dozen reed birds, split them down the back, 
remove the entrails, and place them on a double broiler; brush a little melted 
butter over them, and broil the inner side thoroughly first; then hghtly broil 
the other side. Melt one-quarter of a pound of butter, season it nicely with salt 
isnd pepper, dip the birds in it, and arrange them nicely on slices of toast. 

MINCED FOWLS ON TOAST 

Remove from the bones aU the meat of either cold roast or boiled fowls. " 

Clean it from the skin, and keep covered from the air, until ready for use. Boil 

the bones and skin with three-fourths of a pint of water until reduced quite 

half. Strain the gravy and let it cool. Next, having skimmed off the fat, put 



BREAD— TOAST. 249 

it into a clean sauce-pan with half a cup of cream, three tablespoonfiils of butter, 
well-mixed with a tablespoonful of flour. Keep these stirred until they boil, 
Then put in the fowl finely minced, with three hard-boiled eggs, chopped, and 
sufficient salt and pepper to season. Shake the mince over the fire until just 
ready to serve. Dish it over hot toast and serve. 

HASHED BEEF ON TOAST. 

Chop a quantity of cold roast beef rather fine, and season it well with peppei 
and salt. For each pint of meat add a level tablespooful of flour. Stir well, and 
add a small teacupful of soup-stock or water. Put the mixture into a small 
stew-pan, and, after covering it, simmer for twenty minutes. Meanwhile, 
toast half a dozen shces of bread nicely, and at the end of the twenty minutes 
spread the meat upon them. Serve at once on a hot dish. In case water ba 
used instead of soup-stock, add a tablespoonful of butter just before spreading the 
beef upon the toast. Any kind of cold meat may be prepared in a similar manner. 

— Maria Parloa. 
VEAL HASH ON TOAST. 

Take a teacupful of boiling water'in a sauce-pan, stir in an even teaspoonful 
of flom', wet in a tablespoonful of cold water, and let it boil five minutes; add 
one-half teaspoonful of black pepper, as much salt, and two tablespoonfuls of 
butter, and let it keep hot, but not boil. Chop the veal fine, and mix vdth it 
half as much stale bread-crumbs. Put it in a pan, and pour the gravy over it, 
then let it simmer ten minutes. Serve this on buttered toast. 

CODFISH ON TOAST. (Cuban Style.) 
Take a teacupful of freshened codfish, picked up fine. Fry a sliced onion 
in a tablespoonful of butter; when it has turned a hght brown, put in the fish 
with water enough to cover it; add half a can of tomatoes, or half a dozen of 
fresh ones. Cook aU nearly an hour, seasoning with a httle pepper. Serve 
on shces of dipped toast, hot. Very fine. 

Plain creamed codfish is very nice turned over dipped toast. 

HALIBUT ON TOAST. 

Put into boiling, salted water, one pound of fresh hahbut; cook slowly for 
fifteen minutes, or until done; remove from the water and chop it fine; then add 
half a cup of melted butter, and eight eggs well beaten. Season with salt and 
pepper. 

Place over the fire a thick -bottomed frying-pan containing a tablespoonful of 
cold butter; when it begins to melt, tip the pan so as to grease the sides; then 



350 XREAD— TOAST, 

put in the fish and eggs and stir one way until the eggs are cooked, but not too 
hard. Turn over toast, dipped in hot, salted water. 

CHICKEN HASH WITH RICE TOAST. 
Boil a cup of rice the night before; put it into a square, narrow bread-pan, 
set it in the ice-box. Next morning, cut it into half-inch slices, rub over each 
slice a little warm butter, and toast them on a broiler to a delicate brown. Ai*- 
range the toast on a warm platter and turn over the whole a chicken hash, made 
from the remains of cold fowl, the meat picked from the bones, chopped fine, 
put into the f lying-pan, ■\vitli butter, and a little water to moisten it, adding pep- 
per and salt. Heat hot all through. Sei-ve immediately. 

APPLE TOAST. 

Cut six apples into quarters, take the core out, peel and cut them in 
slices; put in the sauce-pan an ounce of butter, then throw over the apples 
about two ounces of white powdered sugar and two tablespoonfuls of water; 
put the sauce-pan on the fire, let it stew quickly, toss them up, or stir -with a 
spoon; a few minutes will do them. When tender, cut two or three slices of 
bread half an inch thick; put in a frying-pan two ounces of butter, put on the 
fire; when the butter is melted, put in your bread, which fry of a nice yellowish 
color; when nice and crisp, take them out, place them on a dish, a little white 
sugar over, the apples about an inch thick. Serve hot. 




SUGGESTIONS IN REGARD TO CAKE MAKING. 

Use none but the best materials, and all the ingredients should be properly 
prepared before commencing to mix any of them. Eggs beat up much lighter 
and sooner by being placed in a cold place some time before using them; asniaJl 
pinch of soda sometimes has the same effect. Flour should always be sifted 
before using it. Cream of tartar or baking-powder should be thoroughly mixed 
with the flour; butter be placed where it will become moderately soft, but not 
melted in the least, or the cake will be sodden and heavy. Sugar should be 
rolled and sifted; spices ground or pounded; raisins or any other fruit looked 
over and prepared; currants, especially, should be nicely washed, picked, dried 
in a cloth, and then carefully examined, that no pieces of grit or stone may be 
left amongst them. They should then be laid on a dish before the fire to become 
thoroughly dry; as, if added damp to the other ingredients, cakes will be liable 
to be heavy. 

Eggs should be well -beaten, the whites and yolks separately, the yolks to a 
thick cream, the whites until they are a stiff froth. Always stir the butter and 
sugar to a cream, then add the beaten yolks, then the milk, the flavoring, then 
the beaten whites, and lastly the flour. If fruit is to be used, measure and 
dredge with a little sifted flour, stir in gradually and thoroughly. 

Pour all in well-buttered cake-pans. While the cake is baking, care should 
be taken that no cold air enters the oven, only when necessary to see that the 
cake is baking properly; the oven should be an even, moderate heat, not too 
cold or too hot; much depends on this for success. 

Cake is often spoiled for being looked at too often when first put into the 
oven. The heat should be tested before the cake is put in, which can be done 
by throwing on the floor of the oven a tablespoonful of new flour. If the flour 

takot Are. or assumes a dark-brown color, the temperature is too high, and the 

1/ 



252 CAKES. 

oven must be allowed to cool; if the flour remains white after the lapse of a few 
seconds, the temperature is too low. When the oven is of the proper tempera- 
ture, the flour will slightly brown and look slightly scorched. 

Another good way to test the heat, is to drop a few spoonfuls of the cake, 
batter on a small piece of buttered letter-paper, and place it in the oven during 
the finishing of the cake, so that the piece will be baked before putting in the 
whole cake ; if ,the little drop of cake-batter bakes evenly without burning 
around the edge, it will be safe to put the whole cake in the oven. Then again 
if the oven seems too hot, fold a thick brown paper double, and lay ori the 
bottom of the oven; then after the cake has risen, put a thick brown paper over 
the top, or butter well a thick white paper and lay carefully over the top. 

If, after the cake is put in, it seems to bake too fast, put a brown paper 
loosely over the top of the pan, f^are being taken that it does not touch the cake, 
and do not open the door for five minutes at least; the cake should then be 
quickly examined, and the door shut carefully, or the rush of cold air will cause 
it to falJ. Setting a small dish of hot water in the oven, will also prevent the 
cake from scorching. 

To ascertain when the cake is done, run a broom straw into the middle of it; 
if it comes out clean and' smooth, the cake wiU do to take out. 

Where the recipe calls for baking powder, and you have none, you can use 
cream tartar and soda in proportion to one level teaspoonful of soda, two 
heaping teaspoonfuls of cream tartar. 

When sour milk is called for in the recipe, use only soda. Cakes made with 
molasses burn much more easily than those made with sugar. 

Never stir cake after the butter and sugar is creamed, but beat it down frort; 
the bottom, up, and over; this laps air into the cake-batter, and produces little 
air cells, which causes the dough to puff and swell when it comes in contact 
with the heat while cookmg. 

When making most cakes, especially sponge cake, the flour should be 
added by degrees, stirred very slowly and lightly, for if stirred hard and fast it 
will make it porous and tough. 

Cakes should be kept in tight tin cake-cans, or earthem jars, in a cool, dry 
place. 

Cookies, jumbles, ginger-snaps, etc., require a quick oven; if they become 
moist or soft by keeping, put again into the oven a few minutes. 

To remove a cak6 from a tin after it is baked, so that it wiU not crack, break 
or fall, first butter the tin well all around the sides and bottom; then cut a 
piece of letter-paper to exactly fit the tin, butter that on both sides, placing 



CAKES. 253 

it smoothly on the bottom and sides of the tin. When the cake is baked, let it 
remain in the tin until it is cold\ then set it in the oven a minute, or- just long 
enough to warm the tin through. Remove it from tlie oven; turn it upside 
down on your hand, tap the edge of the tin on the table and it will slip out with 
ease;, leaving it. whole. 

if a cake-pan is too shallow for holding the quantity of cake to be baked, for 
fear of its being so hght as to rise above the pan, that can be remedied by 
thoroughly greasing a piece of thick glazed letter-paper v^dth soft butter. .Place 
or fit- it around the sides of the buttered tin, allowing it to reach an inch or 
more above the top. If the oven heat is moderate, the butter will preserve the 
paper from burning. 

FROSTING OR ICING. 

In the first place, the eggs should be cold, and the platter on which they are 
to be beaten also cold. AUow, for the' white of one egg, one small teacupful 
of powdered sugar. Break the eggs and throw a small handful of the sugar on 
them as soon as you begin beating; keep "adding it at intervals until it is aU .used 
up. The eggs must wot be beaten until the sugar has been added in this way, 
which gives a smooth, tender frostmg, and one that wiU dry much sooner than 
the old way. 

Spread with a broad knife evenly over the cake, and if it seems too thin, beat 
in a little more sugar. Cover the cake with two coats, the second after the first 
has become dry, or nearly so. If the icing gets too dry or stiff before the last 
coat is needed, it can be thinned sufficiently with a little water, enough to make 
it work smoothly. 

A little lemon-juice, or half a teaspoonful of tartaric acid, added to the frost- 
ing while being beaten, makes it white and more frothy. 

The flavors mostly used are lemon, vanilla, almond, rose, chocolate, and 
orange. If you wish to ornament with figures or flowers, make up rather more 
icing, keep about one-third out until that on the cake is diied; then, with a clean, 
glass R\Tinge, apply it in such forms as you desire and dry as before; what yo«. 
keep out to ornament with may be tinted pink with cochineal, blue with indigo, 
yellow with saffron or the grated rind of an orange strained through a cloth, 
green with spinach juice, and brown with chocolate, purple with cochineal and 
indigo. Strawberry, or currant and cranberry juices color a dehcate pink. 

Set the cake in a cool oven with the door open, to dry, or in a draught in an 
open window. 



254 CAKES. 

ALMOND FROSTING. 
The whites of three eggs, beaten up with three cups of fine, white sugar. 
Blanch a pound of sweet almonds, pound them in a moi-tar with a little sugar, 
until a fine paste, then add the whites of eggs, sugar and vanilla extract. Pound 
a few minutes to thoroughly mix. Cover the cake with a very thick coating of 
this, set in a cool oven to dry, afterwards cover with a plain icing. 

CHOCOLATE FROSTING. 

The whites of four eggs, three cups of powdered sugar, and nearly a cup of 
grated chocolate. Beat the whites a very little, they must not become white; 
Btir in the chocolate, then put in the sugar gradually, beating to mix it well. 

PLAIN CHOCOLATE ICING. 

Put into a shallow pan four tablespoonf uls of scraped chocolate, and place it 
where it will melt gradually, but not scorch; when melted, stir in three table- 
spoonfuls of milk or cream, and one of water; mix all well together, and add 
one scant teacupful of sugar; boil about five minutes, and while hot, and when 
the cakes are nearly cold, spread some evenly over the surface of one of the 
cakes; put a second one on top, alternating the mixture and cakes; then cover 
top and sides, and set in a warm oven to harden, AU who have tried recipe 
after recipe, vainly hoping to find one where the chocolate sticks to the cake 
and not to the fingers, will appreciate the above. In making those most palat- 
able of cakes, "Chocolate Eclairs," the recipe just given will be found very 
satisfactory. 

TUTTI FRUTTI ICING. 
Mix with boiled icing one ounce each of chopped citron, candied cherries, 
seedless raisins, candied pineapple, and blanched almonds. 

SUGAR ICING. 
To one pound of extra refined sugar, add one ounce of fine white starch; 
Dound finely together, and then sift them through gauze; then beat the whites 
of tliree eggs to a froth. The secret of success is to beat the eggs long enough, 
and always one way; add the powdered sugar by degrees, or it will spoil the 
froth of the eggs. When aU the sugar is stirred in, continue the whipping for 
half an hour longer, adding more sugar if the ice is too thin. Take a little 
of the icing and lay it aside for ornamenting afterward. When the cake comes 
out of the oven, spread the sugar icing smoothly over it with a knife, and dry 



CAKES. 255 

it at once in a cool oven. For ornamenting the cake, the icing may be tinged 
any color preferred. For pink, use a few drops of cochineal; for yellow a pinch 
of saffron, dissolved; for green, the juice of some chopped spinach,. Whichever 
is chosen, let the coloring be first mixed with a Httle colorless spirit, and then 
stirred into the white icing until the tint is deep enough. To ornament the cake 
with iti make a cone of stiff writmg paper, and squeeze the colored icing through 
•it, so as to form leaves, beading or letters, as the case may be. It requires nicety 
and care to do it with success.. 

BOILED FROSTING. 

To one pound of finest pulverised sugar, add three Wine-glassfuls of clear 
water. Let it stand until it dissolves; then boil, it until it is perfectly clear and 
threads from the spoon, Beat well the whites of four eggs. Fojir the sugar into 
■the dish with the eggs, but do not mix them imtil the syrup is luke-warm; then 
bea,t all well together for one half hour. 

Season to your taste with vanilla, rose-water, or lemon-juice. The first coat- 
ing may be put on the cake as soon as it is well mixed. Rub the' cake with a 
little flour before you apply the icing. While the first coat is drying, continue 
to beat the remainder; you wiU not have to wait long if the cake is set in a warm 
place near the fire. This is said to be a most excellent recipe for icing.. 

FROSTING WITHOUT EGGS. 

An excellent frosting may be made without eggs or gelatine, which will keep 
longer, and cut more easily, causing no breakage or crumbling, and withal is 
jvery economical, 

Take one cup of granulated sugar; dampen it with one-foiuiih of a cup of 
milk, or five tablespoonfuls; place it on the fire in a suitable dish, and stir it 
until it boils; then let it boil for five minutes without stirring; remove it from 
the fire and set the dish in another of cold water; add flavoring. While it is 
cooling, stir or beat it constantly, and it wiU become a thick, creamy frosting. 

GELATINE FROSTING. 
Soak one teaspoonf ul of gelatine in one tablespoonful of cold water half an 
hour, dissolve in two tablespoonfiils of hot water; add one cup of powdered sugar 
and stir until smooth. 

GOLDEN FROSTING. 
A very delicious and handsome frosting can be made by using the yOlks of 
eggs 'instead of the whites. Proceed exactly as for ordinary frosting. It will 
harden 'jnst as nicely as that does. This is i)artlcularly good for orange cake. 



25^ CAKES. 

harmonizing with the color of the cake in a way to please those who love rich 
coloring, 

BREAD OR RAISED CAKE. 
Two cupfuls of raised dough ; beat into it two-thirds of a cup of butter and two 
cups of sugar creamed together, three eggs, well beaten, one even teaspoonful of 
soda, dissolved in two tablespoonfuls of milk, half a nutmeg grated, one table- 
spoonful of cinnamon, a teaspoonful of cloves, one cap of raisins. Mix all well 
together, put in the beaten whites of eggs and raisins last; beat all hard for 
several minutes; put in buttered pans, and let it stand half an hour to rise again 
before baking. Bake in a moderate oven. Half a glass of brandy is an im- 
provement, if you have it convenient. 

FRUIT CAKE. (Superior.) 

Three poimds dry flour, one pound sweet butter, one pound sugar, three 
pounds stoned raisins, two pounds currants, three-quarters of a pound sweet 
almonds blanched, one pound citron, twelve eggs, one tablespoonful allspice, 
one teaspoonful cloves, two tablespoonfuls cinnamon, two nutmegs, one wine- 
glass of wine, one wine-glass of bi'andy, one coffee-cupful molasses with the 
spices in it; steep this gently twenty or thirty minutes, not boiUng hot; beat the 
eggs very hghtly; put the fruit in last, stirring it gradually, also a teaspoonful 
of soda dissolved in a tablespoonful of water; the fioiit should be well'floured; if 
necessary add flour after the fruit is in; butter a sheet of paper and lay it in the 
pan. Lay in some sUces of citron, then a layer of the mixture, then of citron 
again, etc., till the pan is nearly full. Bake three or four, hours, according to 
the thickness of the loaves, m a tolerably hot oven, and with steady heat. Let 
it cool in the oven gradually. Ice when cold. It improves this cake very much 
to add three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder to the flour. A fine wedding-cake 
recipe. 

FRUIT CAKE BY MEASURE. (Excellent.) 

Two scant tea^upfuls of butter, three cupfuls of dark -brown sugar, six eggs, 
whites and yolks beaten separately, one pound of raisins, seeded, one of cur- 
rants, washed and dried, and half a pound of citron cut in thin strips; also half 
a cupful of cooking molasses, and half a cupfid of sour milk. Stir the butter and 
sugar to a cream, add to that half a grated nutmeg, one tablespoonful of ground 
cinnamon, one teaspoonful of cloves, one teaspoonful of mace, add the molasses 
and sour milk. Stir all well; then put in the beaten yolks of egg, a wine-glass 
of brandy; stir again all thoroughly, and then add four cupfuls of sifted flour, 
alternately vdth the beaten whites of egg. Now dissolve a level teaspoonful of 



CAKES. 257 

soda, and stir in thoroughly Mix the fruit together, and stir into it two heaping 
tablespoonfuls of flourj then stir it in the Cake. Butter two common-sized bak- 
ing-tins carefully, line them with letter-paper well buttered, and bake in a mod- 
erate oven two hours. After it is baked, let it cool in the pan. Afterward put 
it into a tight can, or let it remain in the pans and cover tightly. Best recipe 
of all. 

—Mrs. S. a. CAiXP, Qrani Rapids, Mich. 

WHITE FRUIT CAKE. 
One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup of sweet milk, two and one- 
half cups of flour, the whites of seven eggs, two even teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder, one pound each of seeded raisins, figs, and blanched almonds, and one- 
quarter of a pound of citron, all chopped fine. Mix all thoroughly before adding 
the fruit; add a teaspoonful of lemon extract. Put baking-powder in the flour, 
and mix it well before adding it to the other ingredients. Sift a little flour over 
the fruit before stirring it in. Bake slowly two hours and try with a splint to 
see when it is done. A cup of grated cocoanut is a nice addition to this cake. 

MOLASSES FRUIT CAKE. 

One teacupful of butter, one teacupful of brown sugar, worked well together] 
next two teacupfuls of cooking molasses, one cupful of milk with a teaspoonful 
of soda dissolved in it; one tablespoonf ul of ginger, one tablespoonful Of cinnamon, 
and one teaspoonful of cloves; a httle grated nutmeg. Now add four eggs well- 
beaten, and five cups of sifted flour, or enough to make a stiff batter. Flour a 
cup of raisins, and one of currants; add last. Bake in a very moderate oven, 
one horn-. If well covered-will keep six months. 

SPONGE CAKE. 

Sepai'ate the whites and yolks of six eggs. Beat the yolks to a cream, to 
which add two teacupfuls of powdered sugar, beating again from five to ten 
minutes, then add two tablespoonfuls of milk or water, a pinch of salt, and 
flavoring. Now add pari of the beaten whites; then two cups of flour in whicli 
you have sifted two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; mix gradually into tho 
above ingredients, stirring slowly and lightly, only enough to mix them well; 
lastly add the remainder of the whites of the eggs. Line the tins with buttered , 
paper and fill two-thirds full. 

WHITE SPONGE CAKE. 

Whites of five eggs, one ciip flour, one cup sugar, one teaspoonful baking- 
powder; flavor vsdth vanilla. Bake in a Quick oven. 



258 CAKES. 

ALMOND SPONGE CAKE. 

The addition of almonds makes this cake very superior to the usual sponge- 
cake. Sift one pint of fine flour; blanch in scalding water two ounces of sweet 
and two ounces of bitter almonds, renewing the hot water when expedient; when 
the skins are all off wash the almonds in cold water (mixing the sweet and 
bitter), and wipe them dry; pound them to a fine, smooth paste (one at a time), 
adding, as you proceed, water or white of egg to prevent their boiling. Set them 
in a cool place; beat ten eggs, the whites and yolks separately, till very smooth 
and thick, and then beat into them gradually two cups powdered sugar in turn 
with the pounded almonds; lastly add the flour, stirring it round slowly and 
Ughtly on the surface of the mixture, as in common sponge-cake; have ready 
buttered a deep square pan; put the mixtm-e carefully into it, set into the oven, 
and bake till thoroughly done and risen very high; when cool, cover it with plain 
white icing flavored with rose-water or with almond icing. With sweet 
almonds always use a small portion of bitter; without them, sweet almonds have 
little or DO taste, though they add to the richness of the cake. 

Use two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder in the flotu*. 

OLD-FASHIONED SPONGE CAKE. 

Two cups of sifted white sugar, two cups of flour measured before sifting, 
ten eggs. Stir the yolks and sugar together until perfectly light; add a pinch of 
salt; beat the whites of the eggs to a very stiff froth, and add them with the 
flour, after beating together lightly; flavor with lemon. Bake in a moderate 
oven about forty-five minutes. Baking-powder is an improvement to this cake, 
using two large teaspoonfuls. 

LEMON SPONGE CAKE. 

Into one level cup of flour put a level teaspoonful of baking-powder and sift 
it. Grate off the yellow rind of a lemon. Separate the whites from the yolks 
of four eggs. Measure a scant cup of white granulated sugar and beat it to a 
cream with the yolks, then add the grated rind and a tablespoonful of the juice 
of the lemon. Stir together until thick and creamy; now beat the whites to a 
stiff froth; then qmckly and hghtly mix without beating a. third of the flour 
with the yolks; then a third of the whites; then more flom- and whites until all 
are used. The mode of mixing must be very light, rather cutting down thi'ough 
the cake-batter than beating it; beating the eggs makes them light, but beating 
the batter makes the cake tough. Bake immediately until a straw run into it 
can be withdrawn clean. 

This recipe is especially nic« for Charlott* Russe, bting so light and porous. 



CAKES. 259 

PLAIN SPONGE CAKE. 

Beat the yolks of four eggs together with two cups of fine powdered sugar. 
Stir in gradually one cup of sifted flour, and the whites of four eggs beaten to a 
stiff froth, then a cup of sifted flour in which two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder 
have been stirred, and lastly, a scant teacupfiil of boiling water, stirred in a little 
at a time. Flavor, add salt, and, however thin the mixture may seem, do not 
add any more flour. Bake in shallow tins. 

BRIDE'S CAKE. 

Cream together one scant cup of butter and three cups of sUgar, add one cup 
of milk, then the beaten whites of twelve eggs; sift three teaspoonfuls of baking- 
powder into one cup of corn-starch mixed with three cups of sifted flour, and 
beat in gradually with the rest; flavor to taste. Beat all thoroughly, then put 
in buttered tins hned with letter-paper well -buttered; bake slowly in a moderate 
oven. A beautiful white cake. Ice the top. Double the recipe if more is 
required. 

ENGLISH POUND CAKE. 

One pound of butter, one and one-quarter pounds of flour, one pound of 
pounded loaf sugar, one pound of currants, nine eggs, two ounces of candied 
peel, one-half ounce of citron, one-half ounce of sweet almonds; when liked, a 
little pounded mace. Work the butter to a cream; add the sugar, then the well- 
beaten yolks of eggs, next the flour, currants, candied peel, which should be cut 
into neat slices, and the almonds, which should be blanched and chopped, and 
mix all these weU together; whisk the whites of eggs, and let them be thoroughly 
blended with the other ingredients. Beat the cake well for twenty minutes, 
and put it into a round tin, lined at the bottom and sides with strips of white 
buttered paper. Bake it from two hours to two and a half, and let the oven be 
weU-heated when the cake is first put in, as, if this is not the case, the currants 
will all sink to the bottom of it. A glass of wine is usually added to the mix- 
ture; but this is scarcely necessary, as the cake will be foimd quite rich enough 
without it. 

PLAIN POUND CAKE. 

This is the old-fashioned recipe that our mothers used to make, and it can be 
kept for weeks in an earthen jar, closely covered, first dipping letter-paper in 
brandy and placing ov er the top of the cake before covering the jar 

Beat to a cream one pound of butter with one pound of sugar, after mixing 
well with the beaten yolks of twelve eggs, one grated nutmeg, one glass of 



26o CAKES. 

v/ine, one glass of rose-water. Then stir in one pound of sifted flour, and the 
well beaten wliites of the eggs. Bake a nice light brown. 

COCOANUT POUND CAKE. 

Oiie-Iialf cupful of buttiT, two cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of milk, and five 
ejigs, beaten to a stiff froth ; one teaspoonful of soda, and two of cream of tartar, 
stirred into four cups of sifted flour. Beat the butter and sugar until very light; 
to which add the beaten yolks, then the milk, the beaten whites of eggs, then 
the flour by degrees. After beating all well together, add a small cocoanut 
grated. Line the cake-pans with paper well buttered, and fill rather more than 
half full, and bake in a woderate oven. Spread over the top a thin frosting, 
s]iiinkled thickly with grated cocoanut. 

CITRON POUND CAKE, 

Stir two cups of butter to a cream, then beat in the following ingi-edients 
each one in succession: one pint of powdered sugar, one quart of flour, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, eight eggs, the yolks and whites beaten separately, and a wine- 
glass of brandy; then last of all add a quarter of a pound of citron cut inlothiu 
slices and floured. Line two cake-pans with buttered paper and tuin the cake 
batter in. Bake in a moderate oven about three quarters of an hour. 

CITRON CAKE. 

Three cups of white sugar and one cup of butter creamed together; one cup 
of sweet milk, six eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately; one teaspoonful of 
vanilla or lemon extract, two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, sifted with 
four cups and a half of flour. One cup and a half of citron, sliced thin and 
dredged ^vith floiu'. Divide into two cakes and bake in tins Uned with buttered 
letter-paper. 

LEMON CAKE, 

Three teacupfuls of sugar, one cupful of butter, five eggs, a level teaspoonfu] 
of soda dissolved in a cup of sweet milk, four full cups of sifted flour, and 
lastly, the grated peel and juice of a lemon, the juice to be added the very last. 
Bake in two shallow tins. When cold, ice with lemon icing, and cut into squares. 

DELICATE CAKE. 

One cup of corn-starch, one of butter, two of sugar, one of sweet milk, two 
of flour, the whites of seven eggs; rub butter and sugar to a cream; mix one 
teaspoonful cream tartar virith the flour and corn-starch; one half teaspoonful 



CAKES. a6i 

soda with the sweet milk; add the milk and soda to the sugar and butter, then 
add .flour, then the whites of eggs ; flavor to taste. Never fails to be good, 

SILVER, OR DELICATE CAKE. 

Whites of six eggs, one cupful of sweet milk, two cupfuls of sugar, four cupfula 
of sifted flour, two-thirds of a cup of butter, flavoring, and two teaspoonfuls oi 
baking-powder. Stir the sugar and butter to a cream, then add the milk and 
flavoring, part of the flour, the beaten whites of eggs, then the rest of the flour. 
Bake carefully in tins lined with buttered white paper. 

When using the whites of eggs for nice cake, the yolks need not be wasted ; keep 
them in a cool place and scramble them. Serve on toast or with chipped beef. 

GOLD CAKE. 
After beating to a cream one cup and a half of butter and two cups o| 
white sugar, stir iu the well- whipped yolks of one dozen eggs; four cupfuls of 
sifted floui', one teaspoonful of baking-powder. Flavor with lemon. Line the 
bake-paus with buttered paper, and bake in a moderate oven for one hour. 

GOLD OR LEMON CAKE. 

Two cups of sugar, half a cup of butter, the yollcs of six eggs, and one whole 
one; the grated rind and juice of a lemon or orange; half a teaspoonful of soda, 
dissolved in half a cup of sweet milk; four cups of sifted flour, sifted twice; cream 
the butter and sugar, then add the beaten yolks and the flour, beating hard for 
several minutes. Last add the lemon or orange, and bake, frosting if liked. 
This makes a more suitable lemon cake than if made with the white parts of 
eggs added. 

SNOW CAKE. (Delicious.) 

One pound of arrowroot, quarter of a pound of pounded white sugar, half a 
pound of butter, the whites of six eggs, flavoring to taste of essence of almonds 
or vanilla, or lemon; beat the butter to a cream; stir in the sugar and axrowroot 
gradually, at the same time beating the mixture; Avhisk the whites of the eggs 
to a stiff froth; add them to the other ingredients, and beat well for twenty 
minutes; put in whichever of the above flavorings may be preferred; pour the 
cake into a buttered mold or tin, and bake it in a moderate oven from one to 
one and a haK hours. This is a genuine Scotch recipe. 

MARBLE CAKE. 
Wliite par^— Whites of four eggs, one cup of white sugar, half a cup of 
butter, half a cup of sweet milk, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, one tea- 
spoonful of vanilla or lemon, and two and a half cups of sifted flour. 



262 CAKES. 

Dark part. — Yolks of four eggs, one cup of brown sugar, half a cup of cook 
ing molasses, half a cup of butter, half a cup of sour milk, one teaspoonful oi 
ground cloves, one teaspoonful of dnnamon, one teaspoonful of mace, one nut- 
meg grated, one teaspoonful of soda, the soda to be dissolved in a httle milk and 
added after part of the flour is stirred in; one and a half cups of sifted flour. "- • 

Drop a spoonful of each kind in a well-buttered cake-dish, first the hght part 
then the dark, alternately. Try to drop it so that the cake shall be well-streaked 
through, so that it has the appsarance of marble, 

SUPERIOR LOAF CAKE. 

Two cups of butter, thi-ee cups of sugar, two small cups of milk, seven cups 
of sifted flour; four eggs, the whites and yolks separately beaten; one teacupful 
of seeded raisins, one teacupful of well- washed and dried ciirrants, one teacup- 
ful of shced citron, one tablespoonf ul of powdered cinnamon, one teaspoonful of 
mace, one teaspoonful of soda; and one teacupful of home-made yeast. > \ , 

Take part of the butter and warm it with the milk; stir in part of the flour, 
and the yeast, and let it rise; then add the other ingredients with a wine-glass of 
wine or brandy. Turn all into well-buttered cake-tins, and let nse again. Bake 
slowly in a moderate oven, for two hom-s. 

FRENCH CHOCOLATE CAKE. 
The whites of seven eggs, two cups of sugar, two-thirds of a cup of butter, 
one cup of milk and three of flour, and three teaspoonf uls of baking-powder. 
The chocolate part of the cake is made just the same, only use the yolks of the 
eggs with a cup of grated chocolate stirred into it. Bake it in layers— the layers 
being hght and dark; then spread a custard between them, which is made with 
two eggs, one pint of milk, one-half cup of sugar, one tablespoonful of flour or 
oom-starch; when cool, flavor with vanilla, two teaspoonf uls. Fine. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE. No. i. 

One cup of butter and two cups of sugar stirred to a cream, with the yolks 
of five eggs added after they have been well-beaten. Then stir into that one 
cup of milk, beat the whites of two of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add that also; 
now put in three cups and a half of sifted flour, two heaping teaspoonf uls of 
baking-powder having been stin-ed into it. Bake in jelly-cake tins. 

Mixture for filling. — Take the remaining three whites of the eggs beaten very 
stiff; two cupfuls of sugar boiled to almo.st candy or until it becomes stringy or 
almost brittle; take it hot from the fire, and pour it very slowly on the beaten 
whites of egg, beating quite fast; add one half cake of grated chocolate, a tea- 



CAKES, 263 

fipoonful of vanilla extract. Stir it all until cool, then spread between each 
cake,, and over th« top and sides. This, when well-made, is the premium cake 
of its kind. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE. No. 2. 

One-half cup butter, two cups sugar,, three-quarters of a cup sweet milk, two 
and one-half cups flour, whites of eight eggs, one teaspoonful of cream taitar, 
one-half teaspoonful soda; bake in shallow pans. 

For the frosting.— Take the whites of three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of 
sugar and one tablespoonful of grated chocolate (confectioners') to one eg^S] put 
the cake together with the frosting, then frost the top of the cake with the same. 

CHOCOLATE CAKE. No. 3. 

Two cups sugar, one cup butter, yoUcs of five eggs and whitet of two, and 
one cup milk. Thoroughly mix two teaspoonfuls baking-powder with three and 
one-half cups flour, wliile dry; then mix all together. Bake in jeUy tins. 

Mixture for filling.— Whites of three eggs, one and one-half cups of sugar, 
three tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, one teaspoonful of vanilla. Beat 
together, and spread between the layers and on top of the cake. 

COCOANUT CAKE. 

Cream together^ three quarters of a cup of butter and two of white sugar; 
then add one cup of sweet milk, four eggs, whites and yolks separately beaten, 
the yolks added first to the butter and sugar, then the whites; flavor with lemon 
or vanilla; mix three heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder in three cups of 
sifted flour and add last; bake in jelly-pans. 

For filling. — Make an icing by beating the whites of three eggs and a cup of 
powdered sugar to a stiff froth. When the cake is cooled, spread a thick lay«r of 
this frosting over each cake, and sprinkle very thickly with grated cocoanut. 

COCOANUT AND ALMOND CAKE. 

Two and one-half cups powdered sugar, one cup butter, four full cups pre- 
pared flour, whites of seven eggs, whisked stiff; one small cup of milk, with a 
mere pinch of soda; one grated cocoanut, one-half teaspoonful nutmeg, the juice 
9nd half the grated peel of one lemon; cream, butter and sugar; stir in lemon 
and nutmeg; mix weU; add the milk and whites and flour alternately. Lastly, 
stir in the grated cocoanut swiftly and hghtly. Bake in four jelly-cake tins. 

Filling.— One pound sweet almonds, whites of four eggs, whisked stiff; one 
heaping cup powdered sugar, two teaspoonfuls rose-water. Blanch the almonds. 



264 CAKES. 

Let them get cold and dry; then pound in a Wedgewood mortar, adding rose 
water as you go. Save about two dozen to shred for the top. Stir the paste 
into the icing after it is made; spread between the cooled cakes; make that for 
the top a trifle thicker and lay it' on heavily. When it has stiffened somewhat, 
stick the shred almonds closely over it. Set in the oven to harden, but do not 
let it scorch. 

COFFEE CAKE. 

One cup of brown sugar, one cup of butter, two eggs, one-half cup of molas- 
ses, one cup of strong, cold coffee, one teaspoonf ul of soda, two teaspoonf uls of 
cinnamon, one teaspoonful of cloves, one cup of raisins or currants, and five 
cups of sifted flour. Add the fruit last, rubbed in a Httle of the flour. Bake 
about one hour. 

FEATHER CAKE. 

One egg, one cup of sugar, one tablespoonfxil of cold butter, half a cup of milk; 
one and one-half cups of flour; one teaspoonful of cream tartar; half a teaspoon- 
ful of soda. A nice plain cake — to be eaten while it is fresh. A spoonful of 
dried apple sauce or of peach sauce, a spoonful of jelly, the same of lemon 
extract, nutmeg, cinnamon, cloves and spice — ground — or half a cupful of raisins 
might be added for a change. 

ELECTION CAKE. 

Three cups milk, two cups sugar, one cup yeast; stir to a batter, and let 
stand over night; in the morning add two cups sugar, two cups butter, three 
eggs, half a nutmeg, one tablespoonf ul cinnamon, one pound raisins, a giU of 
brandy. 

Brown sugar is much better than white for this kind of cake, and it is 
improved by dissohing a half-teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoonful of milk 
in the morning. It should stand ui the greased pans and rise some time until 
qmte light before bakmg. 

CREAM CAKE. 

Four eggs, whites and yolks beaten separately, two teacups of sugar, one cup 
ot sweet cream, two heaping cupfuls of floxu-, one teaspoonful of soda; mix two 
teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar in the flour before sifting. Add the whites the 
last thing before the flour, and stir that in gently without beating. 

GOLDEN CREAM-CAKE. 
Yolks of eight eggs beaten to the Ughtest possible cream, two cupfuls of sugar . 
a pinch of salt, three teaspoonfuls of baking-powder sifted well with flour. Bake 



CAKES. 265 

m three jelly-cake pans. Make an icing of the whites of three eggs and one 
pound of sugar. Spread it between the cakes and sprinkle grated cocoanut 
thickly over each layer. It is delicious when properly made. 

DRIED APPLE FRUIT-CAKE. 

Soak three cupfuls of dried apples over night in cold water enough to swell 
them; chop them in the morning, and put them on the fire with three cups of 
molasses; stew until almost soft; add a cupful of mce raisins (seedless, if possi- 
ble), and stew a few moments; when cold, add three cupfuls of flour, one cupful 
of butter, three eggs, and a teaspoonful of soda, bake in a steady oven This 
wiU make two good-sized panfuls of splendid cake; the apples will cook like 
citron and taste dehciously. Raisins may be omitted; also spices to taste may be 
added. This is not a dear, but a deUcious cake. 

CAKE WITHOUT EGGS. 

Beat together one teacupful of butter, and three teacupfuls of sugar, and 
when quite hght stir in one pint of sifted flour. Add to this, one pound of 
raisins, seeded and chopped, then mixed with a cup of sifted flour, one teaspoon- 
ful of nutmeg, one teaspoonful of powdered cinnamon, and lastly, oae pint of 
thick sour cream or milk, in which a teaspoonful of soda is dissolved. Bake 
immediately in buttered tins one hour in a moderate oven. 

WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE. No. I. 

Two cups of sugar, two-thirds cup of butter, tne whites of seven eggs, well- 
beaten, two-thirds cup of sweet milk, two cups of flour, one cup of corn-starch, 
two teaspoonfuls baking-powder. Bake in jelly -cake tins. 

Frosting. — Whites of three eggs and some sugar beaten together not quite as 
stiff as usual for frosting; spread over the cake; add some grated cocoanut; 
then put yoiip cakes together; put cocoanut and frosting on top. 

WHITE MOUNTAIN CAKE. No. 2. 

Cream three cupfuls of sugar and one of butter, making it very light, then 
add a cupful of milk. .,.Beat the whites of eight eggs very stiff, add half of those 
to the other ingredients. Mix well into four cups of sifted flour one tablespoon- 
ful of baking-powder: stir this into the cake, add flavoring, then the remaining 
beaten whites of egg. Bake in layers like jelly-cake. Make an icing for the 
filling, using the whites of four eggs beaten to a .very stiff froth, with two cups 
of fine white sugar, and the juice of half a lemon. Spread each layer of the 



266 CAKES. 

cake thickly with this iciug, place one on another, then ice all over the top and 
sides. The yolks left from this cake may be used to make a spice-caka froni 
the recipe of " Golden Spice-Cake." 

QUEEN'S CAKE. 

Beat well together one cupful of butter, and three cupfuls of white sugar; 
add the yolks of six eggs and one cupful of milk, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla or 
lemon extract. Jlix all thoroughly. To four cupfuls of flour, add two heap- 
ing teaspoonfuls of cream of taitar, and sift gently over the cake, stirring all the 
time. To this add one even teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in one tablespoonful 
of warm watei'. Mix it well. StLi' in gently the whites of six eggs beaten to a 
stiff foam. Bake slowly. It should be put in the oven as soon as possible after 
putting in the soda and whites of eggs. 

This is the same recipe as the one for " Citron Cake,'* only omitting the citron, 

ANGEL CAKE. 

Put into one tumbler of flour one teaspoonful of cream of tartar, then sift it 
five times. Sift also one glass and a half of white powdered sugar. Beat to a 
stiff froth the whites of eleven eggs; stir the sugar into the eggs by degrees, 
very lightly and carefully, adding three teaspoonfuls of vanilla extract. After 
this, add the flour, stirring quickly and hghtly. Pour it into a clean, bright tin 
cake-dish, wliich should not be buttered or hned. Bake at once in a moderate 
oven about forty minutes, testing it with a broom sphnt. When done, let it 
remain in the cake-tin, turning it upside down, with the sides resting on tha top 
of two saucers, so that a current of air will pass imder and over it. 

This is the best recipe found after trying several. A perfection cake. 

WASHINGTON LOAF-CAKE. 

Three cups of sugar, two scant cups of butter, one cup of sour milk, five 
eggs, and one teaspoonful of soda, three tablespoonfuls of cinnamon, half a nut- 
meg, grated, and two cups of raisins, one of ciirrants, and four cups of sifted 
flour. 

Mix as usual, and stir the fruit in at the last, dredged in flour. Lin* the 
cake-pans with paper well buttered. This cake will take longer to bake than 
plain; the heat of the oven must be kept at an even temperature. 

RIBBON CAKE. 
This cake is made from the same recipe as marble cake, only make double 
the quantity of the white part, and divide it in one half; put into it a very little 



CAKES. 267 

cochineal. It will be a delicate pink. Bake in jelly-cake tins, and lay first the 
white, then the dark, then the pink one on top of the others; put together with 
frosting between. It makes quite a fancy cake. Frost the top when cooL 

GOLDEN SPICE-CAKE. 

This cake can be made to advantage when you have the yolks of eggs left, 
after having used the whites in making white cake. 

Take the yolks of seven eggs, and one whole egg, two cupfula of brown 
sugar, one cupful of molasses, one cupful of butter, one laige coflfee-cupful of 
sour milk, one teaspoonful of soda, (just even full), and five cupfuls of flour, one 
teaspoonful of ground cloves, two teaspoonfuls of cinnamon, two teaspoonfuls 
of ginger, one nutmeg, and a small pinch of Cayenne pepper; beat eggs, sugar 
and butter to a Ught batter before putting in the molasses; then add the 
molasses, flour and milk; beat it well together, and bake in a moderate oven; if 
fruit is used, take two cupfuls of raisins, flour them well and put them in last. 

ALMOND CAKE. 

One-half cupful butter, two cupfuls sugar, four eggs, one-half cupful almonds, 
blanched — by pouring water on them until skins easily sHp off — and cut in fine 
shreds, one-half teaspoonful extract bitter almonds, one pint flour, one and one- 
half teaspoonful baking-powder, one glass brandy, one-half cupful milk. Eub 
butter and sugar to a smooth white cream; add eggs, one at a time, beating 
three or four minutes between each. Sift flour and powder together, add to the 
butter, etc., with almonds, extract of bitter almonds, brandy, and milk; mix 
into a smooth, medium batter ; bake carefully in rather a hot oven twenty minutes. 

ROCHESTER JELLY CAKE. 

One and one-half cups sugar, two eggs, one-half cup butter, three-fourths 
cup milk, two heaping cups flour with one teaspoonful cream tartar, one-half 
teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in the milk. Put halC the above mixture in a 
small shallow tin, and to the remainder add one teaspoonful molasses, one-half 
cup raisins (chopped) or currants, one-half teaspoonful cinnamon, cloves, allspice, 
and a httle nutmeg, and one tablespoonful flour. Bake this in same kind of 
tins. Put the sheets of cake together while warm, with jelly between. 

FRUIT LAYER CAKE. 

This is a dehcious novelty in cake-making. Take one cup of sugar, half a 

eup of butter, one cup and a half of flour, half a cup of wine» one cup of raisins. 
IS 



268 CAKES. 

two eggs aud half a teaspoouful of soda; put these ingredients together with 
care just as if it were a very lich cake; bake it in three layers, and put frosting 
between— the frosting to be made of the whites of two eggs with enough pow- 
dered sugar to make it thick. The top of the cake may be frosted if you choose. 

WHIPPED CREAM CAKE. 

One cup of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of soft butter stirred together; add 
ti e yolks of two eggs well beaten, then add four tablespoonfuls of milk, some 
fla^Tiug. then the beaten whites of the eggs. Mix a teaspoonful of cream 
tartar aud half a teaspoon of soda in a cup of flour, sift it into the cake batter, 
and stir in lightly. Bake in a small dripping-pan. When the cake is cool, have 
ready half of a pint of sweet cream sweetened and whipped to a stiff froth, also 
flavored. Spread it over the cake while fresh. To whip the cream easily, set it 
on ice before whipping, 

ROLLED JELLY CAKE. 

Three eggs, one teacup of tine sugar, one teacup of flour; beat the yolks until 
Ught, then add the sugar, then add two tablespoonfuls of water, a pinch of salt; 
lastly stir in the flour, in which there should be a heaping teaspoonful of baking- 
powder. The flour added gradually. Bake in long, shallow biscuit-tins, well- 
greased. Turn out on a damp towel on a breadboard, and cover the top with 
jelly, and roll up while warm. 

TO CUT LAYER CAKE. 

When cutting LayerCakes, it is better to first make a round hole in the 
cake, with a knife or tin tube, about an inch and a quarter in diametei This 
prevents the edge of the cake from crumbling when cutting it. 

When making custard filling for Layer-Cake, always set the dish contain- 
ing the custard in another dish of boihng water over the fixe; this prevents its 
burning, which would destroy its flavor. 

LAYER JELLY CAKE. 

Almost any soft cake recipe can be used for jelly-cake. The following is 
excellent: One cup of sugar, half a cup of butter, three eggs, half a cup of sweet 
milk, two cups of flour, two heaping teaspoonf uls of baking-powder, flavoring. 

For white, delicate cake, the rule for " Silver Cake " is fine; care should bs 
taken, however, that the oven is just right for this cake, as it browns very 
easily. To be baked in jelly cake tins, in layers, with filling put between when 
done. 



CAKES— FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKES. 269 

Any of the following cake-fiUing recipes may be used with these cake recipes. 

jfilUnGS tot Xa^er Cafees^ 

No. I. CREAM FILLING. 

Cream filling is made with one pint of new milk, two eggs, three tablespoon- 
fuls of sifted flour (or half cup of corn starch), one cup of sugar. Put two-thu:ds 
of the milk on the stove to boil, stir the sugar, flour and eggs in what is left. 
When the milk boils, put into it the whole, and cook it until it is as thick as 
custard; when cool, add vanilla extract. This custard is nice with a cup of 
hickory nuts, kernels chopped fine, and stirred into it. Spread between the 
layers of cake, This custard can be made of the yolks of the eggs only, waving 
the whites for the cake part. 

No. 2. ANOTHER CREAM FILLING. 

One cup powdered sugar, one-fourth cup hot water. Let them simmer 
Beat white of an egg and mix with the above; when cold, add one-half cup 
chopped raisins, one-half cup chopped walnuts, one tablespoonful of grated 
cocoanut. 

No. 3. ICE-CREAM FILLING. 

Make an icing as foUows: Three cups of suga.r, one of water; boU to a thick, 
clear syrup, or until it begins to be brittle; pour this, boihng hot, over the well 
beaten whites of three eggs; stir the mixture very briskly, and pour the sugar 
in slowly; beat it when all in, until cool. Flavor with lemon or vamUa extract. 
This, spread between any white cake layers, answers for *' Ice-Cream Cake." 

No. 4. APPLE FILLING. 

Peel, and slice green, tart apples; put them on the fire with sugar to suit; 
when tender, remove, rub them through a fine sieve, and add a smaU piece of 
butter. When cold, use to spread between the layers; cover the cake with 
plenty of sugar. 

No. 5 ANOTHER APPLE FILLING. 

One coffee-cup of sugar, one egg, three large apples grated, one lemon grated, 
juice and outside of the rind; beat together and cook tiU quite thick. To bs 
cooled before putting on the cake. Spread between layers of cake 



2 TO CAKES— FILLINGS FOR LAYER CAKES. 

No. 6. CREAM FROSTING. 

A cup of sweet thick cream whipped, sweetened and flavored with vanilla, 
cut a loaf of cake in two, spread the frosting between and on th« top; thit tastet 
like Chjwlotte Russe. 

No. 7. PEACH-CREAM FILLING. 

Cut peaches into thin slices, or chop them and prepare cream by whipping 
and sweetening. Put a layer of peaches between the layers of cake and poui 
cream over each layer and over the top. Bananas, strawberries or other fruits 
may be used in the same way, mashing strawberries, and stewing thick with 
powdered sugar. 

No. 8. CHOCOLATE CREAM FOR FILLING. 

Five tablespoonfiils of grated chocolate, enough cream or milk to wet it, one 
cupful of sugar, one egg, one teaspoonful vanilla flavoring. Stir the ingredients 
over the fire until thoroughly mixed, having beaten the egg well before adding 
it; then add the vanilla flavoring after it is removed from the fire. 

No. 9. ANOTHER CHOCOLATE FILLING. 

The whites of thiee eggs beaten stiff, one cup of sugar, and ono cup of grated 
chocolate, put between the layers and on top. 

No. 10. BANANA FILLING. 

Make an icing of the whites of two eggs, and one cup and a half of powdered 
sugar. Spread this on the layers, and then cover thickly and entirely with 
bananas sliced thin or chopped fine. This cake may be flavored with vanilla 
The top should be simply frosted. 

No. II. LEMON-JELLY FILLING. 

Grate ths yellow from the rind of two lemons and squeeze out the jmce, two 
cupfuls of sugar, the yolks and whites of two eggs beaten separately; Mix the 
sugar and yolks, then add the whites, and then the lemons. Now, pour -on a 
cupful of boiling water; stir into this two tablespoonfuk of sifted flour, rubbed 
smooth in half a cup of water; then add a tablespoonful of melted butter; cook 
until it thickens. When cold, spread between the layers of cake. Oranges cani 
be used in place of lemons. 

Another filling of lemon (without cooking) is made of the grated rind andl 
Juice of two lemons, and the whites of two eggs beaten with one cup of sugar. 



CAKES. 271 

No. 12. ORANGE-CAKE FILLING. 

Pe«l t?wo large oranges, remove the seeds, chop them fine, add half a peeled 
lemon, one cup of sugar, and the well-beaten white of an egg. Spread be- 
tween the layers of " Silver Cake " recipe. 

No. 13. FIG FILLING. 
Take a pound of figs, chop fine, and put into a stew-pan on the stove; pour 
over them a teacupful of water, and add a half cup of sugax. Cook all together 
until soft and smooth. When cold, spread between layers of cake. 

No, 14. FRUIT FILLING. 

Four tablespoonfuls of very fine chopped citron, four tablespoonfuls of finely 
chopped seeded raisins; half of a cupful of blanched almonds chopped fine; also 
a quarter of a pound of finely chopped figs. Beat the whites of three eggs to a 
stiff froth, adding half of a cupful of sugar; then mix thoroughly into this the 
whole .of the chopped ingi-edients. Put it between the layers of cake when the 
cake is hot, so that it will cook the egg a little. This will be found delicious. 



CUSTARD OR CREAM CAKE. 

Crecim together two cups of sugar and half a cup of butter; add half a cup of 
sweet jhilk in which is dissolved half a teaspoonful of soda. Beat the whites of 
six eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the mixture. Have one heaping teaspoonful 
of cream tartar stirred thoroughly into three cups of sifted flour, and add quickly. 
Bake in a moderate oven, in layers like jelly-cake, and when done, spread cus- 
tard between. 

For the Custard. — Take two cups of sweet milk, put it into a clean suitable 
dish, set it in a dish of boiling water on the range or stove. When the mUk 
comes to a boil, add two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch or flour stirred into half a 
cup of sugar, adding the yolks of four eggs, and a little cold milk. Stir this into 
the boiling milk, and when cooked thick enough, set aside to cool; afterwards, 
add the flavoring, either vanilla or lemon. It is best to make the custard first; 
before making the cake part. 

HICKORY NUT OR WALNUT CAKE. 
Two cups of fine, white sugar, creamed with half a cup of butter, three eggs, 
two-thirds of a cup of sweet milk, three cups of sifted flour, one heaping tea- 
spoonful of baking powder sifted through the flour. A tablespoonful (level) of 



272 CAKES. 

powdered mace, a coffee-cup of hickory nut or walnut meats, chopped a little. 
Fill the cake pans with a layer of the cake, then a layer of raisins upon that, 
then strew over these a handful of nuts, and so on untiLthe pan is two-thirds 
full. Line the tins Avith well-butteied paper, and bake in a steady, but not quick 
oven. This is most excellent. 

CHEAP CREAM CAKE. 

One cup of sugar, one egg, one cup sweet milk, two cups flour, one table- 
spoonful butter, two heaping teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; flavor to taste. 
Divide into three parts, and bake in round shallow pans. 

Cream.— -Beat one egg and one half cup sugar together, then add one quarter 
cup flour, wet with a very httle milk, and stir this mixture into one half pint of 
boiling milk, until thick; flavor to taste. Spread the cream when cool between 
the cakes. 

SOFT GINGER CAKE. 

Stir to a cream one cupful of butter and half a cupful of brown sugar; add to 
this two cupfuls of cooking molasses, a cupful of sweet milk, a tablespoonful of 
ginger, a teaspoonful of gromid cinnamon; beat all thoroughly together, then 
add three eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately; beat into this two cups 
of sifted flour, then a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a spoonful of water, and. 
last, two more cupfuls of sifted flour. Butter and paper two common square 
bread-pans, divide the mixture and pour hslf into each. Bake in a moderate 
oven. This cake requires long and slow baking, from forty to sixty minutes. 
I find that if sour, milk is used, the cakes are much lighter, but either sweet or 
sour is most excellent. 

HARD GINGERBREAD. 

Made the same as " Soft Gingerbread," omitting the eggs, and mixing hard 
enough to roU out hke biscuit; roUed nearly half an inch thick, and cut out hke 
small biscuits, or it can be baked in a sheet or on a biscuit-tin; cut slits a quarter 
of an inch deep across the top of the tin from side to side. When baked and 
while hot, rub over the top with molasses, and let it dry on. 

These two above recipes are the best I have ever found among a large variety 
that I have tried, the ingfedients giving the best proportion for flavor and 
excellence. 

PLAIN GINGERBREAD. 

One cup of dark cooking molasses, one cup of sour cream, one egg, one tea* 
spoonful of soda, dissolved in a little warm water, a teaspoonful of salt, and one 
heaping teaspoonful of ginger; make about as thick as cup-cake. To be eaten 
warm. 



CAJCBS. 



273 



WHITE GINGER BISCUIT. 

One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, one cup of sour cream or milk, three 
eggs, one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of warm water, one 
tablespoonful of ginger, one teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, and five cups of 
sifted flour, or enough to roil out soft. Cut out rather thick, like biscuits ; brush 
over the tops while hot, with the white of an egg, or sprinkle with sugar while 
hot. 

The grated rind and the juice of an orange add much to the flavor of ginger 

GOLD AND SILVER CAKE. 

This cake is baked in layers hke jelly-cake. Divide the silver-cake batter, and 
color it pink vp-ith a httle cochineal; this gives you pink, white and yellow layers. 
Put together with frosting. Frost the top. 

This can be put together like marble cake, first a spoonful of one kind, then 
another, imtil the dish is full. 

BOSTON CREAM CAKES. 

Put into a large-sized sauce-pan half a cup of butter, and one cup of hot 
water; set it on the fire; when the mixture begins to boil, turn in a pint of sifted 
flour at once, beat and work it well with a vegetable-masher until it is very- 
smooth. Remove from the fire,^ and when cdol enough add five eggs that have 
been well beaten, first the yolks and then the whites, also half a teaspoonful of 
soda and a teaspoonful of salt. Drop on buttered tins in large spoonfuls, about 
two inches apart. Bake in a quick oven about fifteen minutes. When done 
and quite cold, open them on the side with a knife or scissors, and put in as much 
of the custard as possible. 

Cream for filling. — Made of two eggs, three tablespoonfuls of sifted flour (or 
half cup of corn-starch), and one cup of sugar. Put two-thirds of a pint of mik 
over the fire in a double boiler, in a third of sL pint of milk; stir the sugar, flour 
and beaten eggs. As soon as the milk looks like boiling, pour in the mixtm-e, 
and stir briskly for three minutes, until it thickens; then remove from the fire 
and add a teaspoonful of butter; when cool, flavor with vanilla or lemon, and 
fill your cakes. 

CHOCOLATE ECLAIRS. 

Make the mixtiire exactly like the recipe for "Boston Cream Cakes." 
Spread it on buttered pans in oblong pieces about four inches long and one and 
a half wide, to be laid about two inches apart; they must be baked in a rather 



2 74 CAKES. 

quick oven, about twenty -fiveTninutes. As soon as baked, ice with chocolate 
icing, and when this is cold, split them on one side, and fill with the same oream 
as " Boston Cream Cakes. 

HUCKLEBERRY CAKE. 
Beat a cup of butter and two cups of sugar toegther until hght, then add a 
half cup of milk, four eggs, beaten separately, the yolks to a cream, and the 
whites to a stiff froth, one teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, the same of cinnamon, 
and two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. The baking-powder to be rubbed into 
the flour. Rub one quart of huckleben-ies well with some flour, and add them last, 
but do not mash them. Pour into buttered pans, about an inch thick; dust the 
tops with sugar and bake. It is better the day after baking. 

SWEET STRAWBERRY CAKE. 

Three eggs, one cupful of sugar, two of flour, one tablespoonful of butter, a 
teaspoonful, heaped, of baking-powder. Beat the butter and sugar together, 
and add the eggs well beaten. Stir in the flour and baking-powder well sifted 
together. Bake in deep tin plate. This quantity will fill four p^tes. With 
three pints of strawberries, mix a cupful of sugar and mash them a httle. 
Spread the fruit between the layers of cake. The top layer of strawberries may 
be covered with a meringue made with the white of an egg and a tablespoonful 
of powdered sugar. 

Save out the largest berries, and arrange them around in circles on the top in 
Vhe white frosting. Makes a very fancy dish, as well as a most delicious cake. 

MOLASSES CUP CAKES. 
One cupful of butter, one of sugar, six eggs, five cupfuls of sifted flour, one 
tablespoonful of cinnamon, two tablespoonfuls of ginger, three teacupfuls of 
cooking molasses, and one heaping teaspoonful of soda. Stir the butter and 
sugar to a cream; beat the eggs very light, the yolks and whites separately, and 
add to it; after which put in the spices; then the molasses and flour in rota- 
tion, stirring the mixture all the time; beat the whole well before adding the 
soda, and but httle afterwards. Put into well-buttered patty-pan tins, and bake 
in a very moderate oven. A baker's recipe. 

BAKERS" GINGER SNAPS. 

Boil all together the following ingredients: Two cups of brown sugar, two 

cups of cooking molasses, one cup of shortening, which should be part butter, 

one large tablespoonful of ginger, one tablespoonful of ground cinnamon, one 

teaspoonful of cloves; remove from the fire and let it cool. In the meantime, 



CAKES. 275 

sift four cups of flour and stir part of it iiito the above mixture. Now dissolve 
a teaspoonful of soda in a tablespoon ful of warm water and beat into this mix- 
ture, stir in the remainder of the flour, and make stiff enough to roll into long 
rolls about one inch in diameter, and cut off from the end into half-inch pieces. 
Place them on well-buttered tins, giving plenty of room to spread. Bake in a 
moderate oven. Let them cool before taking out of the tins. 

GINGER COOKIES. 

One cup sugar, one cup molasses, one cup butter, one egg, one tablespoonful 
vinegar, one tablespoonful ginger, one teasnoonful soda, dissolved in boiling 
water, mix like cookey dough, rather soft. 

GINGER SNAPS 
One cup brown sugar, two cups molasses, one large cup butter, two tea- 
spoonfuls soda, two teaspoonfuls ginger, three pints flour to commence with; 
rub shortening and sugar together into the flour; add enough more flour to roll 
very smooth, very thin, and bake in a quick oven. The dough can be kept for 
days by putting it in the flour-barrol under the flour, and bake a few at a time. 
The more flour that can be worked in and the smoother they can be roUed, the 
better and more brittle they will be. Should be rolled out to wafer-like thin- 
ness. Bake quickly without burning. They should become perfectly cold before 
putting aside. 

DOMINOES. 
Have a plain cake baked in rather thin sheets, and cut into small oblong 
pieces the size and shape of a domino, a trifle larger. Frost the top and sidts. 
When the frosting is hard, di-aw the black hues and make the dots, with a small 
brush dipped in melted chocolate. These are very nice for children's parties. 

FANCY CAKES- 
These delicious little fancy cakes may be made by making a rich jumble- 
paste— roUing out in any desired shape; cut some paste in thick, narrow strips 
and lay around your cakes, so as to form a deep, cup-Uke edge; place on a well- 
buttered tin and bake. When done, fiH with iced fruit, prepared as follows: 
Take rich, ripe peaches (canned nes will do, if fine and well-drained from aU 
juice), cut in halves; plums, strawberries, pineapples cut in squares, or small 
triangles, or any other available fruit, and dip in the white of an egg that has 
been very sUghtly beaten and then in pulverized sugar, and lay in the centre of 
your cakes 



2^b CAKES. 

WAFERS. 

Dissolve four ounces of butter in half a teacup of raiDc; stir together four 
ounces of white sugar, eight ounces of sifted flour, and the yolk of one egg, add- 
ing gradually the butter and milk, a tablespoonful of orange-flower water, and 
a pinch of salt; mix it well. Heat the wafer-irons, butter their inner surfaces, 
put in a tablespoonful of the batter, and close the irons immediately; put the 
irons over the fire, and turn them occasionally, until the wafer is cooked; when 
the wafers are all cooked, roU them on a small round stick, stand them upon a 
sieve, and dry them; serve with ices. 

PEACH CAKES 

Take the yolks and whites of five eggs and beat them separately (the whites 
to a stiff froth). Then mix the beaten yolks with half a pound of pulverized and 
sifted loaf or crushed sugar, and beat the two together thoroughly. Fifteen 
minutes will be none too long for the latter operation if you would have excel- 
lence with your cakes. 

Now add half a pound of fine flour, dredging it in a little at a time, and then 
put in the whites of the eggs, beating the whole together for four or five minutes- 
Then with a large spoon, drop the batter upon a baking-tin, which has been 
buttered and floured, being car6ful to have the cakes as nearly the same size as 
possible, and resembling in shape the half of a peach. Have a quick oven ready, 
and bake the cakes about ten minutes, watching them closely so that they may 
only come to a light brown color. Then take them out, spread the flat side of 
each with peach jam, and stick them together in pairs, covering the outside with 
a thin coat of icing, which when dry can be brushed over on one side of the 
cake, with a little cochineal water. 

CUP CAKES. 

Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, one cup of milk, three cups and a half 
of flour, and four eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda, large spoon cream tartar; stir 
butter and sugar together, and add the beaten yolks of the eggs, then the milk, 
then flavoring, and the whites. Put cream tartar in flour and add last. Bake 
in buttered gem-pans, or drop the batter, a teaspoonful at a time, in rows, on 
flat buttered tins. 

To this recipe may be added a cup of English currants or chopped raisins; 
and a^o another variety of cakes may be made by adding a half cup of citron 
sficed and floured, a half-cupful of chopped almonds, and lemon extract. 



CAKES 277 

VARIEGATED CAKES. 

One cup powdered sugar, one-half cup of butter creamed with the sugar, 
one-half cup of milk, four eggs, the whites only, whipped light, two and one- 
half cups of prepared flom. Bitter almond flavoring, spinach juice and. cochineal. 
Cream, the butter and sugar; add the milk, flavoring, the whites and flour. 
Divide the batter into three parts. Bruise and pound a few leaves of spinach in 
a thin muslin bag until you can express the juice. Put a few drops of this into 
one portion of the batter, color another with cochmeal, leaving the third white. 
Put a little of each into small, round pans or cups, giving a light stir to each 
color as you add the next. This will vein the cakes prettily. Put the white 
between the pink and green, that the tints may show better. If you can get 
pistachio nuts to pound up for the green, the cakes will be much nicer. Ice on 
sides and top 

CORN STARCH CAKES. 

One cupful each of butter and sweet milk, and half a cup of com-starch, two 
cupfuls each of sugar and flour, the whites of five eggs beaten to a stiff froth, 
two teaspoonfuls of cream of tartar and one of soda; flavor to taste Bake in 
gem-tins or patty -pans. 

SPONGE DROPS. 

Beat to a froth three eggs and one teacup of sugar; stir into this one heaping 
coffee-cup of flour, iix which one teaspoonf ul of cream of tartar and half a tea- 
spoonful of saleratus are thoroughly mixed, ilavor with lemon. Butter tin 
sheets with washed butter, and drop in teaspoonfuls about three inches apart. 
Bake instantly in a very quick oven. Watch closely as they will burn easily. 
Serve with ice cream. 

SAVORY BISCUITS OR LADY FINGERS. 

Put nine tablespoonfuls of fine white sugar into a bowl, and put the bowl 
mto hot water to heat the sugar; when the sugar is thoroughly heated, break 
nine eggs into the bowl and beat them quickly until they become a little warm 
and rather thick; then take the bowl from the water, and continue beating imtil 
it is nearly or quite cold; now stir in hghtly nine tablespoonfuls of sifted flour; 
then with a paper-funnel, or something of the kind, lay this mixture out upon 
papers, in biscuits three inches long and half an inch thick, in the form of 
fingers; sift sugar over the biscuits, and bake them upon tins. to a light brownj 
when they are done and oold, remove them from the papers, by wetting them 



2 78 CAKES. 

on the back; dry them, and they are ready for use. They are often used in 
making Charlotte Russe. 

PASTRY SANDWICHES. 

Puff-paste, jam of any kind, the white of an egg, sifted sugar. 

Roll the paste out thin ; put half of it on a baking-sheet or tin, and spread 
equally over it apricot, greengage, or any preserve that may be preferred. Lay 
over this preserve another thin paste, press the edges together all round, abd 
mark the paste in hues vdth a knife on the surface, to show where to cut it 
when baked. Bake from twenty minutes to half an hour; and, a short time 
before being done, take the pastry out of the oven, brush it over with the white 
of an egg, sift over pounded sugar, and put it back in the oven to color. When 
cold, cut it into strips; pile these on a dish pyramidically, and serve. 

This may be made of jelly-cake dough, and, after baking, allowed to oool 
before spreading with the preserve; either way is good, as well as fanciful. 

NEAPOLITAINES. 
One cup of powdered sugar, half a cup of butter, two tablespoonfuls of lemon- 
juice, three whole eggs, and three yolks, beaten separately; three cups of sifted 
flour. Put this all together with half a teaspoonf ul of soda, dissolved in a table- 
spoonful of milk. K it is too stiff to roll out, add just enough more milk. Roll 
it out a quarter of an inch thick, and cut it out with any tin cutter. Place the 
cakes in a pan slightly greased, and color the tops with beaten egg and milk, 
with some chopped almonds over them. Bake in a rather quick oven. 

BRUNSWICK JELLY CAKES. 

Stir one cup of powdered white sugar, and one haff cup of butter together, till 
perfectly Ught; beat the yolks of three eggs till very thick and smooth; sift three 
cups of flour, and stii' it into the beaten eggs with the butter aiid sugar; add a 
teaspoonf ul of mixed spice (nutmeg, mace and cinnamon) and half a glass of 
rose-water or wine; stir the whole well, and lay it on your paste-board, which 
must first be sprinkled with flour; if you find it so moist as to be unmanageable, 
throw in a little more flour; spread the dough into a sheet about half an inch 
thick, and cut it out in round cakes with a biscuit-cutter; lay them in buttered 
pans and bake about five or six minutes; when cold, spread over the surface of 
each cake a hquor of fruit- jelly or marmalade; then beat the whites of three or 
four eggs till it stapds aloue; beat into the froth, by degrees, a suflSciency of 
powdered loaf-sugar to make it as thick ns icing; flavor with a few drops of 
strong essence of lemon, and \v\t\\ a j:poon heap it up on each cake, making it 



CAKES. 2 79 

high in the centre; put the cakes into a coal oven, and as soon as the tops are 
colored a pale brown, take them out. 

LITTLE PLUM CAKES. 
One cup. of sugar and half a cup of butter, beaten to a smooth cream; add 
three well-beaten eggs, a teaspoonf ul of vanilla extract, four cups of sifted flour, 
one cup of raisins, and one of currants, half of a teaspoonful of baking-soda, ! 
dissolved in a little water, and milk enough to make a stiff batter; drop this; 
batter in drops on well-buttered tins, and bake in a quick oven. 

JUMBLES. 
Cream together two cups of sugar and one of .butter, add three weli-beaten 
eggs and six tablespooufuls of sweet milk,. two teaspoonf uls of baking-powder, 
flavor to taste; flour' enough to make into a soft dough; do not roll it on the 
paste-board, but break off pieces of dough the size of a walnut and make into 
rings by roUing out rolls as large as your imger, and joining the ends; lay them 
on tins to bake, an inch apart, as it rises and spreads; bake in a moderate oven. 
These jumble's are very dehcate, will keep a long time. 

WINE JUMBLES. 
One cup of butter, two of sugar, three eggs, one wine-glass of wine, one 
spoonful of vanilla, and flour enough to roll out. Roll as thin as the blade of a 
knife, and cut with an oval cutter. Bake on tin-sheets, in a quick oven, until a 
dark brown. These will keep a year if kept in a tin box and in a dry place. 

COCOANUT JUMBLES. 
Grate one large cupful of cocoanut; rub one cupful of butter with one and a 
half cupfuls of sugar; add three beaten eggs, whites and yolks separately, two 
tablespoohfuls of milk, and five cupfuls of sifted flour; then add by degrees the 
gi-ated nut, so as to make a stiff dough, rolled thin, and cut ^\'ith a round cutter, , 
having a hole in the middle. Bake in a quick oven from five to ten minutes. 

PHILADELPHIA JUMBLES. 

Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, eight eggs, beaten light; essence of 
bitter almond or rose to taste; enough flour to enable you to roll them out. 

Stir the sugar and butter to a light cream, then add the well-whipped eggs, 
the flavoring and flour; mix well together, roll out in powdered sugar, roll in a 
sheet a quarter of an inch thick; cut into rings with a jagging-iron, and bake in 
a quick oven on buttered tins. 



28o CAKES. 

ALMOND JUMBLES. 

Three cupfuls of soft sugar, two cupfuls of flour, half a cupful of butter, one 
teacupful of loppered milk, five eggs, well-beaten, two tablespoonf uls of rose- 
water, three-quarters of a pound of almonds, blanched and chopped very fine; 
one teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in boiling water. 

Cream, butter and sugar; stir in the beaten yolks the milk, flour, rose-water, 
ahnoDds, and, lastly, the beaten whites very lightly, and quickly; drop in rings 
on buttered paper, and bake at once. 

FRUIT JUMPLES 
Two cups of sugar, one cup of butter, five cupfuls of flour, five eggs, one 
email teacupful of milk, in which dissolve half a teaspoonful of soda, cream the 
butter; add the sugar; cream again; then add yolks of eggs, the milk, beaten 
whites and flour; a little cinnamon, nutmeg, allspice, and ground cloves, and 
one-quarter of a pound of currants, roUed in flour. 

COOKIES. 

One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, a small teacupful of sweet milk, half a 
grated outmeg, and five cups of sifted flour, in which there has been sifted with 
it two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder; mix into a soft dough, and cut into 
round cakes; roll the dough as thin as pie-crust. Bake in a quick oven a light- 
brown. These can be made of sour milk and a teaspoonful of soda dissolved in 
it, or sour or sweet cream can be used in place of butter. 

Water cookies made the same as above, using water in place of milk. Water 
cookies keep longer than milk cookies. 

FAVORITE COOKIES. 

One cup of butter, one and a half cups of sugar, one half cup of sour mibc, 
one level teaspoonful of soda, a teaspoonfiol of grated nutmeg. Flour enough to 
roll; make quite soft. Put a tablespoonf ul of fine sugar on a plate and dip the 
tops of each as you cut them out. Place on buttered tins and bake in a quick 
oven, a light brown. 

FRUIT COOKIES 

One cupful and a half of sugar, one cupful of butter, one-half cup of sweet 
milk, one egg, two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, a teaspoonful of grated nut- 
meg, three tablespoonfuls of English currants or chopped raisins. Mix soft, and 
roll out, using just enough flour to stiffen sufficiently. Cut out with a large 
cutter, wet the tops with milk, and sprinkle sugar over them. Bake on buttered 
tins in a quick oven. 



CAKES. 281 

CRISP COOKIES. (Very Nice.) 

One cup of butter, two cups of sugar, three eggs •well-beaten, a teaspoonfu] 
of soda and two of cream tartar, spoonful of milk, one teaspoonful of nutmeg,, 
and one of cinnamon. Flour enough to make a soft dough just stiff enough to 
roll out. Try a pint of sifted jQour to begin with, working it in gradually. 
Spread a little sweet milk over each, and sprinkle with sugar. Bake in a quick 
oven a light brown. 

LEMON COOKIES. 

Four cups of sifted flour, or enough for a stiff dough; one teacupful of butter, 
two cups of sugar, the juice of one lemon, and the grated peel from the outside, 
three eggs, whipped very light. Beat thoroughly each ingredient, adding after 
all is in a half teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a tablespoonful of milk. Roll 
out as any cookies, and bake a light brown. Use no other wetting, 

COCOANUT COOKIES. 

One cup grated cocoanut, one and one-haK cups sugar, three-fourths cup 
butter, one-half cup milk, two eggs, one large teaspoonful baking-powder, one- 
half teaspoonful extract of vanilla, and flour enough to roll out. 

DOUGHNUTS OR FRIED CAKES. 

Success in making good fried cakes depends as much on the cooking as the 
mixing. In the first place, there should be boiling lard enough to free them 
from the bottom of the kettle, so that they swim on the top, and the lard should 
never be so hot as to smoke or so cool as not to be at the boiling point; if it is, ' 
they soak grease, and are spoiled. If it is at the right heat, the doughnuts will 
in about ten minutes Idc of a dehcate brown outside and nicely cooked inside. 
Five or six minutes wiU cook a cruller. Try the fat by dropping a bit of the 
dough in first; if it is right, the fat wiU boil up when it is dropped in. They 
should be turned over almost constantly, which causes them to rise and brown 
evenly. When they are sufficiently cooked, raise them from the hot fat, and 
drain them until every drop ceases dripping. 

CRULLERS OR FRIED CAKES. 
One and a half cupfuls of sugar, one cupful of sour milk, two eggs, two 
scant tablespoonfuls of melted butter, half a nutmeg grated, a large teaspoonful 
of cinnamon, a teaspoonful of salt, and one of soda; make a httle stiff er than 
biscuit dough, roU out a quarter of an inch thick, and cut with a fried-cake 
cutter, with a hole in the centre. Fry in hot lard. 



282 CAKES. 

These can be made with sweet milk and baking-powder, iising two heaping 
teaspoonfuls of the baking-powder in place of soda. 

RAISED DOUGHNUTS. 
Old-fashioned "raised doughuuts," are seldom seen, now-a-days, but are 
easily made. Make a sponge as for bread, using a pint of warm water or milk, 
and a large half cupful of yeast; when the sponge is very Ught, add lialf a cupful 
of butter or sweet laid, a coffee-cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of salt and one 
small teaspoonful of soda, dissolved m a httle water, one tablespoonful of cinna- 
mon, a httle grated nutmeg; stir in now two well-beaten eggs, add sifted flour 
until it is the consistency of biscuit-dough, knead it well, cover and let rise; then 
roll the dough out into a sheet half an inch thick, cut out v\ith a very small 
biscuit-cutter, or in strips half an inch wide and three inches long, place them 
on greased tins, cover them well, and let them rise before frying them. Drop 
them in very hot lard. Raised cakes require longer time than cakes made with 
baking-powder. Sift powdered sugar over them as fast as they are fi'ied, while 
warm. Our grandmothers put allspice into these cakes; that, however, is a 
matter of taste. 

BAKERS' RAISED DOUGHNUTS. 

Warm a teacupful of lard in a pint of milk; when nearly cool, add enough 
flour to make a thick batter, and add a small cupful of yeast; beat it well, and 
set it to rise; when light, work in gradually and carefully three cupfuls of sugar, 
the whipped whites of six eggs, half a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in a spoon- 
ful of milk; one teaspoonful of salt, a teaspoonful of ground cinnamon, and half 
of a nutmeg grated; then work in gradually enough flour to make it stiff enough to 
roll out; let it rise again, and when very hght, roll it out in a sheet an ^nch thick; 
cut into rounds; put into .the centre of each round a large Sultana raisin, seeded, 
and mold into perfectly round balls ; flatten a httle; let them stand a few minutes 
before boiling them; have plenty of lard in the pot, and when it boils drop in the 
cakes; when they are a light brown, take them out with a perforated skimmer; 
drain on soft white paper, and roll, while warm, in fine powdered sugar, 

— PurselVa Bakery, New York City, 

CRULLERS OR WONDERS. 

Three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of melted lard or butter, three tablespoon- 
fuls of sugar, mix very hard with sifted flour, as hard as can be rolled, and to 
be rolled very thin hke pie- crust; cut in squares three inches long and two wide, 
then cut several slits or lines lengthwise, to within a quarter of an inch of the 



CAKES. 283 

edges of the ends; nin your two forefingers through every other slit; lay them 
down on the board edgewise, and dent them. These are very dainty when fried.. 
Fry in hot lard a light brown. 

GERMAN DOUGHNUTS. 
One pint of mUk, four eggs, one small tablespoonful of melted butter, flavor- 
ing, salt to taste; first boil the milk and pour it, while hot, over a pint of flour; 
beat it very smooth, and when it is cool, have ready the yolks of the eggs well- 
beaten; add them to the milk and flour, beaten well into it, then add the 
well-beaten .whites, then lastly add the salt and as much more flour as will make 
the whole into a soft dough; flour your board, turn your dough upon it, roU it 
in pieces as thick as your finger and turn them in the form of a ring; cook in 
plenty of boiling lard. A nice breakfast cake with coffee. 

NUT CAKES (Fried.) 
Beat two eggs well, add to them one ounce of sifted sugar, two ounces of 
warmed butter, two tablespoonf uls of y^ast, a teacupful of luke-warm milk and 
a little salt. Whip aU well together, then stir in by degrees one pound of flour, 
and, if requisite, more milk, making thin dough. Beat it until it faUs from 
the spoon, then set it to rise. When it has risen, make butter or lard hot in a 
frying-pan; cut from the light dough little pieces the size of a walnut, and with- 
out molding or kneading, fry them pale brown. As they are done, lay them 
on a napkin to absorb any of the fat. 

TRIFLES. 
Work one e^'g and a tablespoonful of sugar to as much flour as will make a 
stiff paste; roll it as thin as a dollar piece, and cut it into small round or square 
cakes; drop two or three at a time into the boiling lard; when they rise to the 
surface and turn over they are done; take them out ■with a skimmer and lay 
them on an inverted sieve to drain. When served for dessert or supper, put a 
spoonful of jelly on each. 

PUFF-BALL DOUGHNUTS. 

These doughnuts, eaten fresh and warm, are a dehcioiis breakfast dish, and 
are quickly made. Three eggs, one cupful of sugar, a pint of sweet milk, salt, 
nutmeg, and flour enough to pemiit the spoon to stand upinght in the mixture; . 
add two heaping teaspoonfuls of baldng-powder to the flour; beat all until, very 
light. Drop by the dessertspoonful into boiling lard.. These will not absorb a 
bjt of fat, and are not at all rich, and consequently are the least injurious of this 
kind of cakes. 19 



GENERAL REMARKS. 

Use the very best materials in making pastry; the shortening should be fresh, 
sweet, and hard; the water cold (ice water is best), the paste rolled on a cold 
board, and all handled as httle as possible. 

When the crust is made, it makes it much more flakey and puff much more 
to put it in a dish covered with a cloth, and set in a very cold place for half an 
hour, or even^n hour; in summer, it could be placed in the ice box. 

A great improvement is made in pie-crust by the addition of about a heaping 
teaspoonful of baking-powder to a quart of flour, also brushing the paste as often 
as rolled out, and the pieces of butter placed thereon, with the white of an egg, 
assists it to rise in leaves or flakes. As this is the great beauty of puff-paste, it 
is as well to try this method. 

If currants are to be used in pies, they should be carefully picked over, and 
washed in several waters, dried in a towel, and dredged with flour before they 
are suitable for use. 

Raisins, and all dried fruits for pies and cakes, should be seeded, stoned, and 
'dredged with flour, before using. 

Almonds should be blanched by pouring boihng water upon them, and then 
slipping the skin off with the fingers. In pounding them, always add a little 
rose or orange water, with fine sugar, to prevent their becoming oily. 

Great care is requisite in heating an oven for baking pastry. If you can 
hold your hand in the heated oven while you count twenty, the oven has just 
the proper temperature, and it should be kept at this temperatiu-e as long as the 
pastry is in ; this heat will bake to a light brown, and will give the pastry a 
fresh and flakey appearance. If you suffer the heat to abate, the under crust 
wdl become heavy and clammy, and the upper crust will fall in. 



PASTRY PIES AND TARTS. 285 

Another good way to ascertain when the oven is heated to the proper degree 
for puff -paste: put a small piece of the paste in previous to baking the whole, 
and then the heat can thus be judged of. 

Pie-crust can be kept a week, and the last be better than the first, if put in a 
tightly covered dish, and set in the ice-chest in summer, and in a cool place in 
winter, and thus you can make a fresh pie every day with little trouble. 

In baking custard, pimapkin or squash pies, it is well, in order that the mix- 
ture may not be absorbed by the paste, to first partly bake the paste before add- 
ing it, and when stewed fruit is used the filling should be perfectly cool when 
put in, or it vnll make the bottom crust sodden. 

HOW TO MAKE A PIE. 

After making the crust, take a portion of it, roU it out and fit it to a buttered 
pio -plate by cutting it off evenly around the edge; gather up the scraps left from 
cutting and make into another sheet for the top crust; roll it a little thinner than 
the under crust; lap one half over the other and cut three or four shts about a 
quarter of an inch from the folded edge, (this prevents the steam from escaping 
through the rim of the pie, and causing the juices to run out from the edges). 
Now fill your pie-plate with your prepared filling, wet the top edge of the rim, 
lay the upper crust across the centre of the pie, turn back the half that is lapped 
over, seal the two edges together by slightly pressing down with your thumb, 
then notch evenly and regularly with a three-tined fork, dipping occasionally in 
flour to prevent sticking. Bake in a rather quick oven a light brown, and until , 
the filling boils up through the slits in the upper crust. 

To prevent the juice soaldng through into the crust, making it soggy, wet 
the imder crust with the white of an egg, just before you put in the pie mixture. , 
If the top of the pie is brushed over with the egg, it gives it a beautiful glaze. 

FOR ICING PASTRY. 

To ice pastry, which is the usual method adopted for fruit tarts and sweet 
dishes of pastry, put the white of an egg on a plate, and with the blade of a 
knife beat it to a stiff froth. When the pastry is nearly baked, brush it over 
with this, and sift over some pounded sugar; put it back into the oven to set the 
glaze, and in a few minutes it wiU be done. Great care should be taken that 
the paste does not catch or bum in the oven, which it is very Uable to do after 
the icing is laid on. 

Or make a meringue by adding a tablespoonf ul of white sugar to the beaten 
white of one egg. Spread over the top, and shghtly brown in the oven. 



286 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 

i 

FINE PUFF-PASTE. 

Into one quait of sifted flour, mix two toaspoonfuls of baking-powder, and 
a teaspoonful of salt; then sift again. Meaiuie out one teacupful of butter 
and one of lard, hard and cold. Take the lard and rub into the flour until a very- 
fine, smooth paste. Then put in just enough icewater, say half a cupful, con- 
taining a beaten white of egg, to mix a very stiff dough. Roll it out into a 
thin sheet, spread with one-fourth of the butter, sprinkle over with a httle flour, 
then roU up closely in a long roll, Uke a scroll, double the ends towards the 
centre, flatten and reroU. then spread again with another quarter of the butter. 
Repeat this operation until the butter is used up. Put it on an earthen dish, 
cover it -with a cloth and -set it in a cold place, in the ice-box in summer; let it 
remain until cold; an hour or more before making out the cmst. Tarts made 
with this paste cannot be cut with a knife when fresh; they go into flakes at the 
touch. 

You. may roll this pastry in any direction, from you, towards you, sideways, 
anyway, it matters not, but you must have nice flour, ice- water, and very little 
of it, and strength to roll it, if you would succeed. 

This recipe I purchased from a colored cook on one of the Lake Michigan 
steamers many years ago, and it is, without exception, the finest puff -paste I 
have ever seen. 

PUFF-PASTE FOR PIES. 

One quart of pastry flour, one pint of butter, on6 tablespoonful of salt, one 
of sugar, one and a quarter cupfuls of ice- water. Wash the hands with soap 
and water, and dip them first in very hot, and then in cold water. Rinse a large 
bowl or pan with boiling water, and then with cold. Half fill it with cold water. 
Wash the butter in this, working it with the hands until it is light and waxy. 
This frees it from the salt and buttermilk, and lightens it, so that the pastry is 
more delicate. Shape the butter into two tliin cakes, and put in a pan of ice- 
water to harden. Mix the salt and sugar with the flour. With the hands, rub 
one-third of the butter into the flour. Add the water, stiiTing with a knife. 
Stir quickly and vigorously, until the paste is a smooth ball. Sprinkle the board 
lightly with flour. Tmu the paste on this and pound quickly and lightly vnth 
the rolling-pin. Do not break the paste. iloU from you, and to one side; or, if 
easier to roll from you all the tinie, turn the paste around. When it is about 
one-fourth of an inch thick, wipe the remaining butter, break it in bits, and 
spread these on the paste. Sprinkle lightly with flour. Fold the paste, tme- 
third from each side, so that the edges meet. Now fold from the ends, but do 



PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 287 

not have these meet. Double the paste, pound lightly, and roll down to about 
one-third of an inch in thickness. Fold as before, and roll down again. Repeat 
this three times, if for pies, and six times if for vol-au-vents, patties, tarts, etc. 
Place on the ice, to harden, wheri it has been rolled the last time. It should be 
in the ice-chest at least an hour before being used. In hot weather, if the paste 
sticks when being rolled down, put it on a tin sheet, and place on ice. As soon 
as' it is chilled, it will roll easily. The less flour you use in roUing out the paste, 
the tenderer it wiU be. No matter how carefully every part of the work may 
be done, the paste will not be good if much flom* is used. 

-Maria Farloa. 

SOYER'S RECIPE FOR PUFF-PASTE. 

To every pound of flour allow the yolk of one egg, the juice of one lemon, 
half a saltspoonful of salt, cold water, one pound of fresh butter. 

Put the flour on to the paste-board; make a hole in the centre, into which 
put the yolk of the egg, the lemon- juice, and salt; mix the whole with cold 
water (this should be iced in summer, if convenient) into a soft, flexible paste 
with the right hand, and handle it as little as possible; then squeeze all the 
buttermilk from the butter, wring it in a cloth, and roll out the paste; place the 
butter on this, and fold the edges of the paste over, so as to hide it; roll it out 
again to the thickness of a quarter of an inch; fold over one-thhd, over which 
again pass the rolling-pin; then fold over the other third, thus forming a 
square; place it with the ends, top, and bottom before you, shaking a httle flour 
both under and over, and repeat the rolls and turns twice again, as before. 
Flour a baking sheet, put the paste on this, and let it remain on ice or in some 
cool place for half an hour; then roU twice more, turning it as before; place it 
again upon the ice for a quarter of an hour, give it two more rolls, making seven 
in all, and it is ready for use when required. 

RULE FOR UNDER CRUST. 

A good rule for pie-crust for a pie requiring only an under crust, — as a custard 
or pumpkin pie,— is: Three large tablespoonfuls of flour sifted; rubbing into it a 
large tablespoonful of cold butter, or part butter and part lard, and a pinch of 
salt, mixing with cold water enough to form a smooth, stiff paste, and rolled 
quite thin. 

PLAIN PIE-CRUST. 

Two and a half cupfuls of sifted flour, one cupful of shortening, half butter 
and half lard, cold; a pinch of salt, a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder, 



288 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 

sifted through the flour. Rub thoroughly the shortening into the flour. Mix 
together with half a teacupful of cold water, or enough to form a rather stiff 
dough; mix as Httle as possible, just enough to get it into shape to roll out; it 
must be handled very lightly. This rule is for two pies. 

When you have a little pie-crust left, do not throw it away; roll it thin, cut 
it in small squares and bake. Just before tea, put a spoonful of raspberry jelly 
on each square. 

PUFF-PASTE OF SUET. 

Two cupfuls of flour, one-half teaspoonf ul of salt, one teaspoonful of baking- 
powder, one cup of chopped suet, freed of skin, and chopped very fine, one cup- 
ful of water. Place the flour, sifted with the powder, in a bowl, add suet and 
water; mix into smooth, rather firm dough. 

This paste is excellent for fruit puddings, and dumplings that are boiled; if it 
is well made, it will be light and flaky, and the suet imperceptible. It is also 
excellent for meat pies, baked or boiled. All the ingredients should be very cold 
when mixing, and the suet dredged with flour after it is chopped, to prevent the 
particles from adhering to each other. 

POTATO CRUST. 

Boil and mash a dozen medmm-sized potatoes, add one good teaspoonful of 
salt, two tablespoonfuls of cold butter, and half a cupful of mUk or cream. 
Stiffen with flour sufficient to roll out. Nice for the tops of meat pies. 

TO MAKE PIE-CRUST FLAKY 
In making a pie, after you have rolled out your top crust, cut it about the 
right size, spread it over with butter, then shake sifted flour over the butter, 
enough to cover it well. Cut a slit m the middle, place it over the top of your 
pie, and fasten the edges as any pie. Now take the pie on your left hand, and a 
dipper of cold water in your right hand; tip the pie slanting a little, poiu* over 
the water sufficiently to rinse off the flour. Enough flour will stick to the 
butter to fry into the crust, to give it a fine, bUstered, flaky look, which many 

cooks think is much better than rolling the butter into the ciiist. 

*• 
TARTLETS. 

Talis of strawbeiTy or any other kind of preserves are generally made of the 
trimmings of puff-paste rolled a little thicker than for ordinary pies; then cut 
out with a round cutter, first dipped in hot water, to make the edges smooth, 
and placed in small tart-pans, first pricking a few holes at the bottom with a 



PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. iS^ 

fork before placing them in the oven. Bake from ten to fifteen minutes. Let 
the paste cool a little; then fill it with preserve. By this manner, both the 
fiavor and color of the jam are preserved, which would be lost were it baked in 
the oven on the paste; and, besides, so much jam is not required 

PATTIES, OR SHELLS FOR TARTS 

Eoll out a nice puff-paste thin; cut out with a glass or cookey-cutter, and with 
a wine-glass or smaller cutter, cut out the centre of two out of three; lay the 
rings thus made on the third, and bake at once. May be used for veal or oyster 
patties, or fiUed with jelly, jam or preserves, as tarts. Or shells may be made 
by lining patty -pans with paste. If the paste is light, the shells will be fine. 
Filled with jelly and covered with meringue (tablespoonful of sugar to the white 
of one egg)j and browned in oven, they are very nice to serve for tea. 

If the cutters are dipped in hot water, the edges of the tartlets will rise much 
higher and smoother when baking. 

TARTLETS. 

. Tartlets are nice made in this manner: RoU some good puff-paste out thin, 
and cnt it into two and a half inch squares; brush each square over with the 
white of an egg, then fold down the comers, so that they all meet in the middle 
of each piece of paste; slightly press the two pieces together, brush them over 
with the egg, sift over sugar, and bake in a nice quick oven for about a quarter 
of an hour. When they are done, make a little hole in the middle of the paste, 
and fill it up with apricot jam, marmalade, or red-currant jelly. Pile them high 
in the centre of a dish, on a nankin, and garnish with the same preserve the 
tartlets are filled with. 

TARTS. 

Larger pans are required for tarts proper, the size of small, shallow pie-tins; 
then after the paste is baked and cooled and filled with the jam or preserve, a 
few stars or leaves are placed on the top, or strips of paste, criss-crossed on the 
top, all of which have been previously baked on a tin by themselves. 

Dried fruit, stewed until thick, makes fine tart pies, also cranberries, stewed 
and well sweetened. 

GREEN APPLE PIE. 

Peel, core and sUce tart apples enough for a pie; sprinkle over about three 
tablespoonf uls of sugar, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a small level tablespoonful 
of sifted flour, two tablespoonf uls of water, a few bits of butter; stir all together 



290 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 

with a spoon; put it into a pie-tin lined with pie-paste: cover with a top crust 
and bake about forty minutes. 

The result will be a delicious, juicy pie. 

APPLE CUSTARD PIE. No. i. 
Three cupfuls of milk, four eggs, and one cupful of sugar, two cupfuls of 
thick stewed apples, strained through a colander. Beat the whites and yolks of 
the eggs lightly, and mix the yolks well with the apples, flavoring with nutmeg. 
Then beat into this the milk, and lastly the whites. Let the crust partly bake 
before turning in this filling. To be baked with only the one crust, Uke all . 
custard pies. 

APPLE CUSTARD PIE. No. 2. 

Select fair sweet apples, pare and grate them, and to every teacupful of the 
apple add two eggs well beaten, two tablespoonfuls of fine sugar, one of melted 
butter, the grated rind and half the juice of one lemon, half a wine-glass of 
brandy, and one teacupful of milk; mix all well, and pour into a deep plate lined 
with paste; put a strip of the paste around the edge of the dish and bake thirty 
minutes. 

APPLE CUSTARD PIE. No. 3. 

Lay a crust in your plates; sUce apples thin, and half fill your plates; pour 
over them a custard made of four eggs and one quart of milk, sweetened and sea- 
soned to your taste. 

APPLE CUSTARD PIE. No. 4. 
Peel sour apples and stew until soft, and not much water left in them; then 
rub through a colander; beat three eggs for each pie to be baked, and put in at 
the rate of one cupful of butter and one of sugar for three pies; season with 
nutmeg. 

IRISH APPLE PIE. 

Pare and take out the cores of the apples, cutting each apple into four or 
eight pieces, according to their size. Lay them neatly in a baking dish, season- 
ing them with brown sugar, and any spice, such as pounded cloves and cinna- 
mon, or grated lemon-peel. A little quince marmalade gives a fine flavot to the 
pie. Add a little water, and cover with puff -paste. Bake for an hour. 

MOCK APPLE PIE 

Crush finely, with a rolling-pin, one large Boston cracker; put it into a bowl, 
and pour upon it one teacupful of cold water; add one teacupful of fine white 



PASTE y, . PIES AND TARTS. 29 1 

sugar, the juice ^nd pulp o£ one lemon, half a lemon-rind grated, and a little 
nutmeg; line the pie-plate ■«dth half puff-paste5 pour in the mixture, cover with 
the paste,land bake half an hour. 
These are proportions for one pie. 

APPLE AND PEACH MERINGUE PIE. 

Stew the apples or peaches and sweeten to taste. Mash smootn and. season 
with nutmeg. Fill the crusts and bake until just done. Put oh no top crust. 
Take the whites of three eggs for each pie, and whip to a stiff froth, and sweeten. 
with three tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. Flavor with rose-water or vainiUa; 
beat imtil it wiU stand alone; then spread it ou the pie one-half to one inch thick; 
set it back into 'the oven imtil the meringue is well " set." Eat cold. 

COCOANUT PIE. No. i. 
One-half cup dessicated cocoanut, soaked in one cupful of milk, two eggs, 
one smaU cupful of sugar, butter the size of an egg. This is for one small-sized 
pie. Nice with a meringue on top. 

COCOANUT PIE. No. 2. 

Cut off the brown part of the cocoanut, grate the white part, mix it vdth 
milk, and set it on the fire and let it boil slowly eight or ten minutes. To a 
pound of the grated cocoanut, allow a quart of milk, eight eggs, four table- 
spoonfuls of sifted white sugar, a glass of wine, a small cracker, pounded fine, 
two spoonfuls of melted butter, and half a nutmeg. The eggs and sugar should 
be beaten together to a froth, then the wine stirred in. Put them into the milk 
and cocoanut, which should be first allowed to get quite cool; add the cracker 
and nutmeg, turn the whole into deep pie plates, with a lining and rim of puff- 
paste. Bake them as soon as turned into the plates. 

CHOCOLATE CUSTARD PIE. No. i. 

One quarter cake of Baker's chocolate, grated; one pint of boiling water, six 
eggs, one quart of milk, one-half cupful of white sugar, two teaspoonfuls of 
vaniUa, Dissolve the chocolate in a very Uttle milk, stir into the boiling water, 
and boD. three minutes. When nearly cold, beat up with this the yolks of all 
the eggs and the whites of three. Stir this mixt'ire into the milk, season and 
pour into shells of good paste. When the custard v?- " set "—but not more than 
half done — spread over it the whites whipped to a froth, with two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar. You may bake these custards without paste, in a pudding-dish or 
cups set in boiling water 



aga pastry, piessAnd tarts. 

CHOCOLATE PIE. No. 2. 

Put some grated chocolate into a basin and place on the back of the stove and 
let it melt (do not add any water to it); beat one egg and some sugar in it; when 
melted: spread this on the top of a custard pie. Lovers of chocolate wiJJ like this. 

LEMON PIE. (Superior.) 
Take a deep dish, grate into it the outside of the rind of two lemons; add to 
that a cup and a half of white sugar, two heaping tablespoonfuls of unsifted 
flour, or one of corn-starch ; stir it well together, then add the yolks of three 
well-beaten eggs, beat this thoroughly, then add the juice of the lemons, two cups 
of water, and a piece of butter the size of a walnut. Set this on the fire in- 
another dish containing boiling water and cook it until it thickens, and wiU dip 
up on the spoon like cold honey. Remove it from the fire, and when cooled, 
pour it into a deep pie-^in, lined with pastry; bake, and when done, have ready 
the whites, beaten stiff, with thi-ee small tablespoonfuls of sugar. . Spread this 
over the top and return to the oven to set and brown slightly. This makes a 

deep, large-sized pie, and very superior. 

—Ebbttl House, Washington. 

LEMON PIE. .No. 2. 

One cofifee-cupful of sugar, three eggs, one cupful of water, one tablespoonful 
of melted butter, one heaping tablespoonful of flour, the juice and a little of 
the rind of one lemon. Reserve the whites of thfi eggs, and after the pie is 
baked, spread them over the top, beaten lightly, with a spoonful of sugar, and 
return to the oven until it is a light brown. 

This may be cooked before it is put into the crust or not, but is rather better 
to cook it first in a dcruble boiler or dish. It makes a medium-sized pie. Bake 
from thirty-five to forty minutes. 

LEMON PIE. No. 3. 
Moisten a heaping tablespoonful of corn-starch vn'th a little cold water, then 
add a cupful of boiling water; stir over the fire till it boils and cook the corn- 
starch, say two or three minutes; add a teaspoonful of butter, and a cupful of 
sugar; take oflf the fire, and when slightly cooled, add an egg weU beaten, and 
the juice and grated rind of a fresh lemon* Bake with a crust. This makes one 
small pie. 

LEMON PIE. No. 4. 
Two large, fresh lemons, grate ofif the rind, if not bitter reserve it for the 
filling of the pie; pare ofif every bit of the white skin of the lemon, (as it toughens 



PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 293 

while cooking); then cut the lemon into very thin sbces with a sharp knife, and 
take outihe seeds; two cupfuls of sugar, three tablespoonfuls of water, and two 
of sifted flour. Put into the pie a layer of lemon, then one of sugar, then one 
of the grated rind, and, lastly, of flour, and so on till the ingredients are used; 
sprinkle the water over all, and cover with upper CFUst. Be sure to have the 
under crust lap over the upper, and pinch it well, as the syrup will cook all out 
if care is not taken when finishing the edge of crust. This quantity makes one 
medium-sized pie. 

ORANGE PIE. 

Grate the rind of one and use the juice of two large oranges. Stir together a 
large cupful of sugar and a heaping tablespoonful of flour; add to this the well- 
beaten yojks of three eggs, two tablespoonfuls of melted butter. Eeserve the 
whites for frosting, Turn this into a pie-pan hned with pie-paste, and bake in a 
quick oven. When done so as to resemble a finely baked custard, spread on the 
top of it the beaten whites, which must be sweetened with two tablespoonfuls 
of sugar; spread evenly, and return to the oven and brown slightly. 

The addition of the juice of half a lemon improves it, if Convenient to have it. 

BAKERS' CUSTARD PIE. 

Beat up the yolks of three eggs to a cream. Stir thoroughly a tablespoonful 
of sifted flour into three tablespoonfuls of sugar; this separates the particles of 
flour so that there will be no lumps; then add it to the beaten yolks, put in a 
pinch of salt, a teaspoonful of vanilla, and a httle grated nutmeg; next the 
well-beaten whites of the eggs; and lastly, a pint of scaWed milk (not .boiled) 
which has been cooled; mix this in by degrees, and tiun all into a deep pie.-pan, 
lined with puff paste, and bake from twenty- five to thirty minutes. 

I received this recipe from a celebrated cook in one of our best New York 
bakeries, I inquhed of him " why it was that their custard pies had that look 
of sohdity and smoothness that our home-made pies liave not," He replied, 
" The secret is the addition of this hit of flour— not that it thickens the custard 
any to speak of, but prevents the custard from breaking or wheying, and gives 
that smooth appearance when cut.*' 

CREAM PIE. 
Pour a pint of cream upon one and a half cupfuls of sugar; let it stand until 
the whites of three eggs have been beaten to a stiff froth; add this to the cream, 
and beat up thoroughly; grate a little nutmeg over the mixture, and bake with- 
out an upper crust. If a tablespoonful of sifted flour is added to it, as the above 
Custard Pie recipe, it would improve it 



294 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 

WHIPPED CREAM PIE. 
Line a pie-plate "with a ^rich crust, and bake quickly in a hot oven. When 
done, spread with a thin layer of jelly or jam, then whip one cupful of thick 
sweet cream until it is as light as possible; sweeten with powdered sugar and 
flavor with vanilla; spread over the jelly or jam; set the cream where it will get 
very cold before whipping. 

CUSTARD PIE. 

Beat together until very light the yolks of four eggs and four tablespoonfuls 
of sugar, flavor with nutmeg or vanilla; then add the four beaten whites, a pinch 
of salt and, lastly, a quart of sweet mUk; mix well and pour into tins lined with 
paste. Bake until firm. 

BOSTON CREAM PIE. 

Cream par/.— Put on a pint of milk to boil. Break two eggs into a dish, and 
add one cup of sugar and half a cup of flour previously mixed; after beating 
well, stir it into the milk just as the milk commences to boil; add an ounce of 
butter and keep on stin-ing one way untU it thickens; flavor with vanilla or 
lemon 

Crust part. — Three eggs, beaten separately, one cup of granulated sugar, one 
and a half cups of sifted flour, one large teaspoonf ul of baking-powder, and two 
tablespoon/uls of milk or water. Divide the batter in half and bake on two 
medium-sized pie-tins. Bake in a rather quick oven to a straw color. When 
done and cool, split each one in half with a sharp broad-bladed knife, and spread 
half the cream between each. Serve cold. 

The cake part should be flavored the same as the custard, 

MOCK CREAM PIE. 
Take three eggs, one pint of milk, a cupful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of 
corn-starch, or three of flour; beat the sugar, corn-starch, and yolks of the eggs 
together; after the milk has come to a boU, stir in the mixture, and add a pinch 
of salt and about a teaspoonf ul of butter. Make crust the same as any pie; 
bake, then fill with the custard, grate over a little nutmeg and bake again. 
Take the whites of -the eggs and beat to a stiff froth with two tablespoonfuls of 
sugar, spread over the top and broAvn in f quick oven. 

FRUIT CUSTARD PIE. 

Any fruit custard, such as pineapple, banana, can be readily made after the 
recipe of "Apple Custard Pie." 



PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 295 

CHERRY PIE. 

Line your pie-plate with good crust, fill half full with ripo cherries; sprinkle 
over them about a cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of sifted flour, dot a few bits 
of butter over that. Now fill the crust full to the top. Cover with the upper 
crust, and bake. 

This is one of the best of pies, if made correctly, and the cherries in any case 
should be stoned. 

CURRANT PIE. No. i. 

Make in just the same way as the Cherry Pie, unless they are somewhat 
green, then they should be stewed a little 

RIPE CURRANT PIE. No. 2. 
One cupful of mashed ripe currants, one of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of 
water, one of flour, beaten with the yolks of two eggs. Bake; frost the top 
with the beaten whites of the eggs and two tablespoonfuls powdered sugar, and 
brown in oven. 

GREEN TOMATO PIE. 

Take medium-sized tomatoes, pare, and cut out the stem end. Having your 
pie-pan lined with paste made as biscuit dough, slice the tomatoes very thirty 
filling the pan somewhat heaping, then grate over it a nutmeg, put in half a cup 
of butter, and a medium cup of sugar, if the pan is rather deep. Sprinkle a 
small handful of flour over all, pouring in half a cup of vinegar before adding 
the top crust. Bake half an hour, in a moderately hot oven, serving hot. Is 
good; try it. 

APRICOT MERINGUE PIE. 

A canned apricot meringue pie is made by cutting the apricots fine and mix- 
ing them with a half cup of sugar and the beaten yolk of an egg; fill the crust 
and bake. Take from the oven, let it stand for two or .three minutes, cover 
with a meringue made of the beaten white of an egg and one tablespoonf ul of 
sugar. Set back in a slow oven until it turns a golden brown. The above pie 
can be made into a tart without the addition of the meringue by adding criss- 
cross strips of pastry when the pre is first put into the oven. 

All of the above are good if made from the dried and stewed apricots instead 
of the canned, and are much cheaper. 

Stewed dried apricots are a delicious addition to mince-meal. They may be 
use in connection with miaced apples, or to the exclusion of the latter. 



296 PASTHY, PIES AND TARTS. 

HUCKLEBERRY PIE. 

Put a quart of picked huckleberries into a basin of water; take off whatere 
floats; take up the berries by the handful, pick out aU the stems and unripv. 
berries, and put them into a dish; line a buttered pie-dish with a pie-paste, put in 
the berries half an inch deep, and to a quart of berries, put half of a teacupful of 
brown sugar; dredge a teaspoonful of floui* over, strew a saltspoonful of salt, and 
a little nutmeg grated over; cover the pie, cut a sht in the centre, or make several 
sma l l incisions on either side of it; press the two crusts together around the edge, 
trim it off neatly with a sharp knife, and bake in a quick oven for thre-equarters 
of an hour. 

BLACKBERRY PIE. 
Pick the berries clean, rinse them in cold water, and finish as directed for 
huckleberries. 

MOLASSES PIE. 
Two teacupfuls of molasses, one of sugar, three eggs, one tablespoonful of 
melted butter, one lemon, nutmeg; beat and bake in pastry. 

LEMON RAISIN PIE. 

One cup of chopped raisins, seeded, the juice and grated rind of one lemon, 
one cupful of cold water, one tablespoonful of flour, one cupful of sugar, two 
toblespoonfuls of butter. Stir hghtly together and bake with upper and under 
crust. 

RHUBARB PIE. 

Cut the large stalks off where the leaves commence, strip off the outside 
skin, then cut the stalks in pieces half an inch long; hue a pie-dish with paste 
rolled rather thicker than a doUar piece, put a layer of the rhubarb nearly an inch 
deep; to a quart bowl of cut rhubarb put a large teacupful of sugar; strew it over 
with a saltspoonful of salt and a httle nutmeg grated; shake over a little flour; 
cover with a rich pie-crust, cut a slit in the centre, trim off the edge with a sharp 
knife, and bake in a quick oven until the pie loosens from the dish. Rhubarb 
pies made in this way are altogether superior to those made of the fruit stewei 

RHUBARB PIE, COOKED. 

Skin the stalks, cut them into small pieces, wash, and put them in a stew-pan 

with no more water than. what adheres to them; when cooked, mash them fine, 

and put in a small piece of butter; when cool, sweeten to taste; if liked add a 

little lemon- peel, cinnamon or nutmeg; line your plate with thin crust, put in 



PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 2<^J 

the filling, cover with crust, and bake in a quick oven; sift sugar over it when' 
served. 

PINEAPPLE PIE. 

A grated pineapple; its weight in sugar; half its weight in butter; one cupful 
of cream; five eggs; beat the butter to a creamy froth; add the sugar and yolks 
of the eggs; continue beating till very hght; add the cream, the pineapple grated, 
and the whites of the eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Bake with an under crust. 
Eat cold. 

GRAPE PIE. 

Pop the pulps out of the skins into one dish, and put the skins into another. 
Then simmer the pulp a httle over the fire to soften it; remove it and rub it 
through a colander to separate it from the seeds. Then put the skins and pulp 
together, and they are ready for pies or for canning or putting in jugs for 
farther use. Fine for pies. 

DAMSON OR PLUM PIE- 
Stew the damsons whole in water only sufiEicient to prevent their burning; 
when tender, and while hot, sweeten them with sugar, and let them stand until 
they become cold; then poru* them into pie-dishes lined vdth paste, dredge flour 
upon them, cover them with the same paste, wet and pinch together the edges 
of the paste, cut a slit in the centre of the cover through which the vapor may 
escape, and bake twenty minutes. 

PEACH PIE. 

Peel, stone, and slice the peaches. Line a pie-plate with crust, and lay in 
your fruit, sprinkling sugar liberally over them in proportion to their sweetness. 
Allow three peach kernels, chopped fine, to each pie; pour in a very httle water, 
and bake with an upper crust, or with cross-bars of paste across the top. 

DRIED FRUIT PIES. 

Wash the fruit thoroughly, soak over night in water enough to cover In 
the morning, stew slowly, until nearly done, in the same water. Sweeten to 
taste. The crust, both upper and under, should be rolled thin; a thick crust to 
a fruit pie is undesirable. 

RIPE BERRY PIES. 

All made the same as Cherry Pie. Line your pie-tin with crust, fill half 
full of berries, shake over a tablespoonf ul of sifted flour, (if very juicy), and as 



298 PASTRY, PIES AND TAJiTS. 

much sugar as is necessary to sweeten sofBciently. Now fill up the crust to the 
top, making quite full. Cover with crust, and bake about forty minutes. 

Hucklebeny and blackberry pies are improved by putting into them a iittle 
ginger and cinnamon. 

JELLY AND PRESERVED FRUIT PIES. 
Preserved fruit requires no baking; lience, always bake the shell, and put in 
the sweetmeats afterwards; you can cover with whipped cream, or bake a top 
crust shell; the former is preferable for delicacy. 

CRANBERRY PIE. 

Take fine, sound, ripe cranberries, and with a sharp knife spUt each one 

until you have a heaping coffee-cupful; put them in a vegetable dish or basin; 

put over them one cup of white sugar, half a cup of water, a tablespoon full of 

sifted flom-; stir it all together and put into your crust. Cover with an upper 

crust and bake slowly in a moderate oven. You will find this the true way of 

making a cranbeiry pie, 

— Newport style. 

CRANBERRY TART PIE. 

After having washed and picked over the berries, stew them well in a Uttle 
water, just enough to cover them; when they burst open, and become soft, 
sweeten them with plenty of sugar, mash them smooth (some prefer them not 
mashed); lino your pie-plates with thin puff paste, fill them, and lay strips of 
paste across the top. Bake in a moderate oven. Or you may rub them through 
a colander to free them from the skins. 

GOOSEBERRY PIE 
Can be made the same as Cranberry Tart Pie, or an upper crust can b© 
put on before baking. Serve with boiled custard, or a pitcher of good,^8weet 
cream. 

STEWED PUMPKIN OR SQUASH FOR PIES. 
Deep-colored pumpkins are generally the best. Cut a pumpkin or squash in 
half, take out the seeds, then cut it up in thick sUces, pare the outside and cut 
again in small pieces. Put it into a large pot oi- sauce-pan, with a very little 
water; let it cook slowly until tender. Now set the pot on the back of the stove, 
where it will not bum, and cook slowly, stiniug often luitil the moisture is 
dried out and the pumpkin looks dark and red. It requires cooking a long time, 
at least half a day, to have it dry and rich. When cool, press through a colander. 



PASTRY, P/ES AND TARTS. 299 

BAKED PUMPKIN OR SQUASH FOR PIES. 

Cut up in several pieces, do not pare it; place them on baking tins and set 
them in the oven; bake slowly until soft, then take them out, scrape all the 
pumpkin from the shell, rub it through a colander. It will be fine and light 
and free from lumps. 

PUMPKIN PIE. No. 1. 

For thi-ee pies: One quart of milk, three cupfuls of boiled and strained 
piunpkin, one and one-half cupfuls of sugar, one-half cupful of molasses, the 
yolks and whites of four eggs beaten separately, a httle salt, one tablespoonful 
each of ginger and cinnamon. Beat all together and bake with an under crust. 

Boston marrow or Hubbard squash may be substituted for pumpkin, and are 
much preferred by many, as possessing a less strong flavor. 

PUMPKIN PIE. No. 2. 

One quart of stewed pumpkin, pressed through a sieve; nine eggs, whites 
and yolks beaten separately; .two scant quarts of milk, one teaspoonful of mace, 
one teaspoonful of cinnamon, and the same of nutmeg; one and one-half cupfuls 
of white sugar, or very light brown. Beat all well together, and bake in crust 
•without cover, 

A tablespoonful of brandy is a great improvement to pumpkin or squash pies. 

PUMPKIN PIE, WITHOUT EGGS. 

One quart of properly stewed pumpkin, pressed through a colander; to this 

. add enough good, rich milk, sufficient to moisten it enough to fill two good-sized 

earthen pie-plates, a teaspoonful of salt, half a cupful of molasses, or brown 

sugar, a tablespoonful of ginger, "Due teaspoonful of cinnamon, or nutmeg. Bake 

in a moderately slow oven three-quarters of an hour, 

SQUASH PIE. 

One pint of boiled dry squash, one cupfxil of brown sugar, three eggs, two 
tablespoonf uls of molasses, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one tablespoonful 
of ginger, one teaspoonful of cinnamon, a pinch of salt, and one pint of milk. 
This makes two pies, or one large deep one. 

SWEET POTATO PIE. 
One pound of steamed sweet potatoes finely mashed, two cups sugar, one cup 
cream, one-half cup butter, three well-beaten eggs, flavor with lemon or nutmeg 
and bake in pastry shell. Fine. 



300 PASTRY, PJES AND TARTS. 

COOKED MEAT FOR MINCE PIES. 

In order to succeed in having good mince pie, it is quite essential to cook the 
meat properly, so as to retain its juices and strength of flavor. 

Select four pounds of lean beef, the neck piece is as good as any; wash it, 
and put it into a kettle with just water enough to cover it; take off the scum 
as it reaches the boiUng point, add hot water from time to time, until it ia 
tender, then season with salt and pepper; take off the cover and let it boil until 
almost dry, or until the juice has boiled back into the meat. When it looks as 
though it was beginning to fry in its own juice, it is time to take up, and set 
aside to get cold, which should be done the day before needed. Next day, when 
making the mince-meatj the bones, gristle and stringy bits should be well picked 
out before chopping. 

MINCE PIES. No. I. 

The "Astor House, ".some years ago, was /amows for its ** mince pies." The 
chief pastry cook at that time, by request, published the recipe. I find that 
those who partake of it never faU to speak in laudable terms of the superior 
excellence of this recipe, when strictly followed. 

Four pounds of lean boiled beef, chopped fine, twice as much of chopped green 
tart apples, one pound of chopped suet, three pounds of raisins, seeded, two 
pounds of currants picked over, washed and dried, half a pound of citron, cut 
up fine, one pound of brown sugar, one quart of cooking molasses, two quarts 
of sweet cider, one pint of boiled cider, one tablespoonf ul of salt, one tablespoon- 
ful of pepper, one tablespoonful of mace, one tablespoonful of allspice, and four 
tablespdonfuls of cinnamon, two grated nutmegs; one tablespoonful of cloves; 
mix thoroughly and warm it on the range, until heated tlirough. Remove from 
the fire and when nearly cool, stir in a pint of good brandy, and one pint of 
Madeira wine. Put into a crock, cover it tightly, and set it in a cold place 
where it will not freeze, but keep perfectly cold. Will keep good aU winter. 

—Chefde Cuisine, Astor House, N.Y. 

MINCE PIES. No. 2. 

Two pounds of lean fresh beef, boiled, and when cold, chopped -fine. One 
poimd of beef suet, cleared of strings and minced to powder. Five pounds of 
apples, pared and chopped; two pounds of raisins, seeded and chopped; one 
pound* of Sultana raisins, washed and picked over. Two pounds of currants, 
washed and carefully picked over. Three-quarters of a poimd of citron cut up 
fine. Two tablespoonfuls cinnamon, one of powdered nutmeg, two of mace. 



PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 301 

one of cloves, one of allspice, one of fine salt; two and a quarter pounds of browTi 

sugar, one quart brown sherry, one pint best brandy. 

Mince-meat made- by this recipe wiU keep all winter. Cover closely in a jar, 

and set in a cool place. 

— 'Common Sense m the Household. 

For preserving mince-meat, look for *' Canned Mmce-Meat." 

MOCK MINCE-MEAT, WITHOUT MEAT. 

One cupful of cold water, half a cupful of molasses, half a cupful of brown 
sugar, half a cupful of cider vinegar, two-thirds of a cupful of melted butter, 
one cupful of raisins, seeded and chopped, one egg beaten hght, half a cupful of 
rolled cracker-crumbs, a tablespoonf ul of cinnamon, a teaspoonf ul each of cloves, 
allspice, nutmeg, salt, and black pepper 

Put the sauce-pan on the fire with the water and raisins; .let them cook a 
few minutes, then add the sugar and molasses, then the vinegar, then the other 
ingredients; lastly, add a wine-glassful of brandy. Very fine. 

FRUIT TURNOVER. (Suitable for Picnics.) 
Make a nice puff paste; roll it out the usual thickness, as for pies; then cut 
it out into circular pieces about the size of a small tea saucer; pile the fruit on 
half of the paste, sprinkle over some sugar, wet the edges, and turn the paste 
over. Press the edges together, ornament them, and brush the turnovers over 
vdth the white of an egg; sprinkle over sifted sugar, and bake on tins, in a brisk 
oven, for about twenty minutes. Instead of putting the fruit in raw, it may be 
boiled down with a httle sugar first, and then enclosed in the crust; or jam of 
any kind may be substituted for fresh fruit. 

PLUM CUSTARD TARTLETS. 

One pint of greengage plums, after being rubbed through a sieve; one large 
cup of sugar, the yolks of two eggs well beaten. Whisk all together imtil light 
and foamy; then bake in small patty-pans shells of puff-paste, a Hght brown. 
Then fill with the plum paste, beat the two whites until stiff; add two table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, spread over the plum paste and set the shells into - 
a m'oderate oven for a few moments. 

These are much more easily handled than pieces of pie or even pies whole, 
and can be packed nicely for Carrying. 

LEMON TARTLETS. No. i. 

Put a quart of milk into a sauce-pan over the fire. When it comes to the 
boiling point, put into it the following mixture: Into a bowl put a heaping tabl©- 



^t PASTJiY, PIES AND TARTS. 

spoonful of flour, half a cupful of sugar, and a pinch of salt. Stir this all 
together thoroughly; then add the beaten yolks of six eggs; stir this one way 
into the boihng milk, until cooked to a thick cream; remove from the fire, and 
stir into it the giated rind and juice of one large lemon. Have ready baked and 
hot, some puff-paste tart shells. Fill them with the custard, and cover each 
with a meringue, made of the whites of the eggs, sweetened ^vith four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar. Put into the oven and bake a light straw-color. 

LEMON TARTLETS. No. 2. 

Mix well together the juice and grated rind of two lemons, two cupfuls of 
sugar, two eggs, and the crumbs of sponge cake; beat it aU together until 
smooth; put. into twelve patty-pans lined with puff -paste and bake until the 
crust is done. 

ORANGE TARTLETS. 

Take the juice of two large oranges, and the gratedpeel of one, three-fourths 
of a cup of sugar, a tablespoouful of butter; stir in a good teaspoonful of corn- 
starch into the juice of half a lemon, and add to the mixture. Beat all well 
together, and bake in tart shells without cover. 

MERINGUE CUSTARD TARTLETS. 

Select deep individual pie-tinsi; fluted tartlet pans are suitable for custard 
tarts, but they should be about six inches in diameter and from two to three 
inches deep. Byitter the pan and line it with ordinary puff-paste, then fill it. 
with a custard made as follows: Stir gradually into the beaten yolks of six eggs 
two tablespoonfuls of flour, a saltspoonful of salt and haK a pint of cream. Stir 
until free from Imnps and add twci tablespoonfuls of sugar; put the sauce-pan on 
the range and stir mitil the custard coats the spoon. Do not let it boil or it will 
curdle. Poiu* it in a bowl, add a few drops of vanilla flavoring and stir until the 
custard becomes cold; fiU the lined mold with this and bake in a moderate 
oven. In tlie meantime, put the white of the eggs in a bright copper vessel and 
beat thoroughly, using a baker's wire egg-beater for this pm-pose While beat- 
ing, sprinkle in lightly half a pound of sugar and a dash of salt. When the paste 
is quite firm, spread a thin layer of it over the tart and decorate the top with 
the remainder by squeezing, it through a paper f mmel. Strew a little powdered 
sugar over the top, return to the oven, and when a delicate yellow tinge remove 
f rem thQ oven, and when cold, serve. 



■ PASTRY, PIES AND TAJiTS. 303 

BERRY TARTS. 

Line small pie-tins with pie-crust, and bake. Just before ready to use, fill 
the tarts with strawberries, blackberries, raspbei'ries, or whatever berries are in 
season. Sprinkle over each tart a little su^ar; after adding berries add also to 
each tart a tablespoonful of sweet cream. They form a delicious addition to the 
breakfast table. 

CREAM STRAWBERRY TARTS. 

After picking over the berries carefully, arrange them in layers in a deep pie- 
tin lined with puff -paste, sprinkling sugar thickly between each layer; fill the 
pie-tin pretty full, pouring in a quantity of the juice; cover with a thick crust, 
with a sUt in the top, and bake. When the pie is baked, pour into the sMt in the 
top of the pie the follo'W'ing cream mixture: Take a small cupful of the cream 
from the top of the morning's milk, heat it until it comes to a boil, then stir into 
it the whites of two eggs beaten hght, also a tablespoonful of white sugar and a 
teaspoonful of corn-starch wet in cold milk. Boil all together a few moments 
until quite smooth; set it aside, and when cool,, pour it into the pie through the 
slit in the crust. Serve it cold with powdered sugar sifted over it. 

Raspberry, blackberry, and whortleberry may be made the same. 

GREEN GOOSEBERRY TART. 

Top and tail the gooseberries. Put into a porcelain kettle with enough water 

to prevent burning, and stew slowly until they break. Take them off, sweeten 

well, and set aside to cool. When cold pour into pastry shells, and bake with a 

top crust of puff-paste. Brush aU over with beaten egg while hot, set back in 

the oven to glaze for three minutes. Eat cold. 

— Common Seme in the Household. 

COCOANUT TARTS. 

Take three cocoanuts, the meats grated, the yolks of five eggs, half a cupful 
of white sugar, season, a wine-glass of milk; put the butter in cold, and bake 
in a nice puff-paste. 

CHOCOLATE TARTS 

Four eggs, whites and yolks; one half cake of Baker's chocolate, grated; one 
tablespoonful of corn-starch, dissolved in water; three tablespoonfuls of milk, 
four of white sugar, two teaspoonfuls of vanilla, one saltspoonful of salt, one* 
half teaspoonful of cinnamon, one teaspoonful of butter, melted; nxb the choco- 
late smooth in the milk, and heat to boiling over the fire, then stir in the corn- 
starch. Stir five minutes until well thickened, remove from the fire, and pour 



304 PASTRY, PIES AND TARTS. 

into a bowl. Beat all the yolks and the whites of two eggs well with the sugar, 
and when the chocolate mixture is almost cold, put all together with the flavor- 
ing, and stir until light. Bake in open shells of pastry. When done, cover with 
a meringue made of the whites of two eggs and two tablespoonf uls of sugar 
flavored with a teaspoonful of lemon-juice. Eat cold. 

These are nice for tea, baked in patty -pans. 

— Common Sense in the Household. 

MAIDS OF HONOR. 

Take one cupful of sour miUc, one of sweet milk, a tablespoonful of melted 
butter, the yolk of four eggs, juice and rind of one lemon, and small cupful of 
white pounded sugar. Put both kinds of milk together in a vessel, which is set 
in another, and let it become sufficiently heated to set the curd, then strain off 
the milk, rub the curd through a strainer, add butter to the curd, the sugar, 
well-beaten eggs, and lemon. Line the little pans with the richest of puff- 
paste, and fill with the mixture; bake until firni in the centre, from ten to fifteen 
minutes. 

GERMAN FRUIT PIE. 

Sift together a heaping teaspoonful of baking-powder and a pint of flour; add 
a piece of butter as large as a walnut, a pinch of salt, one beaten egg, and sweet 
milk enough to make a soft dough. EoU it out half an inch thick; butter a 
square biscuit tin, and rover the bottom and sides with the dough; fill the pan 
with quartered juicy apples, sprinkle with a httle cinnamon and molasses. Bake 
in rather quick oven until the crust and apples are cooked a hght brown. Sprinkle 
a little sugar over the top five minutes before removing from the oven. 

Ripe peaches are fine, used in the same manner. 

APPLE TARTS. 

Pare, quarter, core and boil in half a cupful of water until quite soft, ten 
large, tart apples; beat until veiy smooth and add the yolks of six eggs, or three 
whole ones, the juice and grated outside rind of two lemons, half a cup butter, 
one and a half of sugar (or more, if not sufficiently sweet); beat all thoroughly, 
line patty-pans with a puff -paste, and fill; bake five minutes in a hot oven. 

Meringue. — If desired very nice, cover them when removed from the oven 
with:a meringue made of the whites of three eggs remaining, mixed with three 
tablespoonf uls sugar; return to the oven and deUcately brown, 

CREAM TARTS. 
Make a rich, brittle crust, with which cover your patty -pans, smoothing off 
the edges nicely, and bake well. While these "shells" are cooling, take one 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 305 

teacupful (more or less according to the number of tarts you w^ant) of perfectly 
eweet and fresh cream, skimmed free of milk; put this into a large bowl or other 
deep dish, and with your egg-beater whip it to a thick, stiff froth; add a heap- 
ing tablespoonful of fine, white sugar, with a teaspoonf ul (a small one) of lemon 
or vanilla. Fill the cold shells with this and set in a cool place till tea is ready. 

OPEN JAM TARTS. 
Time to bake until past^ loosens from the dish. Line shallow tin dish with 
puff-paste, put in the jam. roll out some of the paste, wet it hghtly with the 
yolk of an egg beaten w"th a Uttle milk, and a tablespoonful of powdered sugar. 
Cut it in very narrow strips, then lay them across the tart, lay another strip 
around the edge, trim off outside, and bake in a quick oven. 

CHESS CAKES. 
Peel and grate one cocoanut, boil one pound of sugar fifteen minutes in two- 
thirds of a pint of water; stir in the grated cocoanut and boil fifteen minutes 
longer. While warm, stir in a quarter of a pound of butter; add the yolks of 
seven eggs weU beaten. Bake in patty-pans with rich paste. If prepared cocoa- 
nut is used, take one and a half coffee-cupfuls. Fine. 



Cu8tarb8, Creams anb Bessette. 

The usual rule for custards is, eight eggs to a quart of milk; but a very good 
custard can be made of six, or even less, especially with the addition of a level 
tablespoonful of sifted flour, thoroughly blended in the sugar first, before adding 
the other ingredients. They may be baked, boiled or steamed, either in cups or 
one large dish. It improves custards to first boil the milk and then cool it before 
being used; also a little salt adds to the flavor. A very small lump of buttel 
may also be added, if one wants soniething especially rich. 

To make custards look and taste better, duck's eggs should be used when 
obtainable; they add very much to the flavor and richness, and so many are not 
required as of ordinary eggs, four duck's eggs to the pint of milk making a 
delicious custard. When desired extremely rich and good, cream should be sub- 
stituted for the milk, and double the quantity of eggs used to those mentioned, 
omitting the whites. 

When making boiled custard, set the dish containing the custard into another 



306 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

and larger dish, partly filled with boiling water, placed over the fire. Let the 
cream or milk come almost to a boil before adding the eggs or thickening, then 
stir it briskly one way every moment until smooth and well cooked; it must not 
boil or it will ciu-dle, 

To bake a custard, the fire should be moderate, and the dish well buttered. 

Everything in baked custard depends upon the regularly heated slow oven. 
If made with nicety, it is the most deUcate of all sweets; if cooked till it wheys, 
it is hardly eatable. 

Frozen eggs can be made quite as good as fmsh on^s if used as soon as thawed 
soft. Drop them into boiling water, letting them remai i until the water is cold. 
They wiU be soft all through and beat up equal to those that have not been 
touched with the frost. 

Eggs should always be thoroughly well-beaten, separately, the yolks firsts 
then the sugar added, beat again, then add the beaten whites with the flavoring, 
then the cooled scalded milk. The hghter the eggs are beaten, the thicker and 
richer the custard. 

Eggs should always be broken into a cup, the whites and yolks separated, 
and they should always be strained. Breaking the eggs thus, the bad ones may 
be easily rejected without spoiling the others, and so cause no waste. 

A meringue, or frosting for the top, requires about a tablespoonful of fine 
sugar to the beaten white of one egg; to be placed on the top after the custard 
or pudding is baked; smoothed over with a broad-bladed knife dipped in cold 
■water, and replaced in the oven to brown sUghtly, 

SOFT CARAMEL CUSTARD 
One quart of milk, haK a cupful of sugar, six eggs, half a teaspoonful of salt. 
Put the milk on to boil, reserving a cupful. Beat the eggs and add the cold milk 
to them. Stir the sugar in a small fryiog-pan until it becomes hquid and just 
begins to smoke. Stir it into the boihng milk; then add the beaten eggs and 
cold milk, and stir constantly imtil the mixture begins to thicken. Set away to 
cool. Serve in glasses. 

BAKED CUSTARD 

Beat five fresh eggs, the whites and yolks separately, the yolks with half a 
cup of sugar, the whites to a stiff froth; then stir them gradually into a quart of 
sweet, rich milk, previously boiled and cooled; flavor vdth extract of lemon or 
vanilla, and half a teaspoonful of salt. Rub butter over i^*^ bottom and sides 
of a baking-dish or tin basin; pour in the custard, grate a Jiicie nutmeg over. 



CUSTAUDSy CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 307 

and bake in a quick oven. It is better, to set the dish in a shallow pan of hot 
water, reaching nearly to the top, the water to be kept boiling until the custard 
is baked; three-quarters of an hour is generally enough. Run a teaspoon handle 
into the middle of it; if it comes out clean it is baked sufficiently. 

CUP CUSTARD. 

Six eggs, half a cupful of sugar, one quart of new milk. Beat the eggs, and the 
sugar and nulk, and any extract or flavoring you like. FiU your custard cups, 
sift a httle nutmeg or cinnamon over the tops, set them in a moderate oven in a 
shallow pan half filled with hot water. In about twenty minutes tiy them 
with the handle of a teaspoon to see if they are firm. Judgment and great care 
are needed to attain skill in baking custard; for if left in the oven a minute too 
Ions;, or if the fire is too hot, the milk will certainly whey. 

Serve cold, with fresh fruit sugared and placed on top of each. Strawberries, 
peaches or raspberries, as preferred. 

BOILED CUSTARD. 

Beat seven eggs very light, omitting the whites of two; mix them gradually 
with a quart of milk and half a cupful of sugar; boil in a dish set into another 
of boiling water; add flavoring. As soon as it comes to the boiling point, remove 
it or it will be hable to curdle and become lumpy. Whip the whites of the two 
eggs that remain, adding two heaping tablespoonf uls of sugar. When the cus- 
tard is cold, heap this on top; if in cups put on a strawberry, or a bit of red jeUy 
on each. Set in a cold place till wanted. 

— Common Sense in tjie Household. 

BOILED CUSTARD, OR MOCK CREAM. 

Take two even tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, one quart of milk, three eggs, 
half a teaspoonful of salt and a small piece of butter; heat the milk to nearly 
boiling, and add the starch, previously dissolved in a httle cold milk; then add 
the eggs, well beaten, with four tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar; let it boil up 
once or twice, stirring it briskly, and it is done. Flavor witn xemon, or vanilla, 
or raspberry, or to suit your taste. 

A good substitute for ice cream, served very cold. 

FRENCH CUSTARD. 

One quart of milk, eight eggs, sugar and cinnamon to taste; separate the 
eggs, beat the yolks until thick, to wliich add the milk, a little vanilla, and 
sweeten to taste; put it into a pan or farina kettle, place it over a slow fire and 



3o8 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

stir it all the time until it becomes custard; then pour it into a pudding-dish 
to get cold; whisk the whites until stiflf and dry; have ready a pan of boihng 
water, on the top of which place the whites; cover and place them where the 
water will keep sufficiently hot to cause a steam to pass through and cook them: 
place in a dish (suitable for the table) a layer of custard and white alternately; 
on each layer of custard grate a httle nutmeg with a teaspoonful of wine; reserve 
a layer of white for the cover, over which grate nutmeg; then send to table, and 
eat cold. 

GERMAN CUSTARD. 

Add to a pint, of good, rich, boiled custard an ounce of sweet almonds, 
blanched, roasted, and pounded to a paste, and half an ounce of pine-nuts or 
peanuts, blanched, roasted and pounded; also a small quantity of candied citron 
cut into the thinnest possible sUps: cook the custard as usual, and set it on the 
ice for some hours before using. 

APPLE CUSTARD. 

Pare, core and quarter a dozen large juicy pippins. Stew among them the 
yello-v peel of a large lemon grated very fine; and stew them till tender in a 
yery small portion of water. When done, mash them smooth with the back of 
a spoon (you must have a pint and a half of the stewed apple); mix a half- 
cupful of sugar with them, and set them away till cold. Beat six eggs very 
light, and stir them gradually into a quart of rich milk, alternately with the 
stewed apple. Put the mixture into cups, or into a deep dish, and bake it about 
twenty minutes. Send it to table cold, with nutmeg grated over the top. 

ALMOND CUSTARD. No. i. 

Scald and .blanch half a pound of shelled sweet almonds, and three ounces of 
bitter almonds, throwing them, as you do them, into a large bowl of cold water. 
Then pound them, one at a time, into a paste, adding a few drops of wine or 
rose-water to them. Beat eight eggs very'hght, with two-thirds of a cup of 
sugar, then mix altogether with a quart of rich milk, or part milk and part 
cream; put the mixture into a sauce-pan and set it over the fire. Stir it one 
way until it begins to thicken, but not till it cm-dies; remove from the fire, and 
when it is cooled, put in a glass dish. Having reserved part of the whites of 
the eggs, beat them to a stiff froth, season with three tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
and a teaspoonful of lemon extract; spread over the top of the custard. Serve 
cold. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 309 

ALMOND CUSTARD. No. 2. 

Blanch a quarter of a pound of sweet almonds, pound them as in No. 1 above, 
with six ounces of fine white sugar, and mix them well with the yolks of f our 
eggs; then dissolve one ounce of patent gelatine in one quart of boihng milk, 
strain it through a sieve, and. pour into it the other mixture; stir the whole over 
the fire until it thickens and is smooth; then pour it into your mold, and keep 
it upon ice, or in a cool place, until wanted; when ready to serve, dip the 
mold into warm water, rub it with a cloth, and turn out the cream carefully 
upon your dish. 

SNOWBALL CUSTARD. 

Soak half a package of Coxe's gelatine in a teacupful of cold water one hour, 
to which add a pint of boiling water, stir it until the gelatine is thoroughly dis- 
solved. Then beat the whites of four eggs to a stiff froth, put two teacupfuls 
of sugar in the gelatine water first, then the beaten whites of egg, and one tea- 
spoonful of vanilla extract, or the grated rind and the juice of a lemon. Whip 
it some time until it is all quite stiff and cold. Dip some teacups or wine-glassea 
in cold water and fill them; set in a cold place. 

In the meantime, make a boUed custard of the yolks of three of the eggs, 
with half of a cupful of sugar, and a pint of milk; flavor with vanilla extract. 
Now after the meringue in the cups has stood four or five hours, turn them out 
of the molds, place them in a glass dish, and pour this custard around the base. 

BAKED COCOANUT CUSTARD. 
Grate as much cocoanut as will weigh a pound. Mix half a pound of pow- 
dered white sugar with the nulk of the cocoanut, or with a pint of cream, add- 
ing two tablespoonfuls of rose water. Then stir in gradually a pint of rich milk. 
Beat to a stiff froth the whites of eight eggs, and stir them into the milk and 
sugar, a httle at a time, alternately with the grated cocoanut; add a teaspoonful 
of powdered nutmeg and cinnamon. Then put the mixture i^to cups, and bake 
them twenty minutes in a moderate oven, set in a pan half filled with boihng 
water. When .cold, grate loaf sugar over them. 

WHIPPED CREAM. No. I. 
To the whites of three eggs beaten to a stiff froth, add a pint of thick, sweet 
cream (previously set where it is very cold), and four tablespoonfuls of sweet 
wine, with three of fine white sugar, and a teaspoonful of the extract of lemon 
or vanilla. Mix aU the ingredients together on a broad platter or pan, and whip 
it to a standing froth; as the froth rises, take it off lightly with a spoon, and lay 



310 CUSTAMDS, CJiEAMS AND DESSEJiTS. 

it on an inverted sieve with a dish under it to catch what will drain through^ 
and what drains through can be beaten over again. 

Serve in a glass dish with jelly or jam, and sliced sponge cake. This 
should be whipped in a cool place, and set in the ice-box. 

WHIPPED CREAM. No. 2. 
Three coffee-cupfuls of good thick sweet cream, half of a cup of powdered 
sugar, three teaspoonfuls of vanilla; whip it to a stiff froth. Dissolve three- 
fourths of an ounce of best gelatine in a teacup of hot water, and when cool 
pour it in the cream and stir it gently from the bottom upward, cutting the 
cream into it, until it thickens. The dish which contains the cream should 
be set in another dish containing ice water, or cracked ice. When finished, pour 
in molds and set on ice or in a very cold place. 

SPANISH CREAM. 
Take one quart of milk and soak half a box of gelatine in it for an hour; 
place it on the fire and stir often. Beat the yolks of three eggs very hght with 
a cupful of sugar, stir into the scalding milk, and heat imtil it begins to thicken, 
(it should not boil, or it -v^tII curdle); remove from the fire, and strain through 
thoB muslin or tarletan, and when nearly cold, flavor with vanilla or lemon; then 
wet a dish or mold in cold water and set aside to stiffen. 

BAVARIAN CREAM. 
One quart of sweet cream, the yolks of four eggs, beaten together with a 
cupful of sugar. . Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine or isinglass in half a teacup- 
ful of warm water; when it is dissolved, stir in a pint of boiling hot cream; add 
the beaten yolks and sugar; cook all together imtil it begins to thicken, then 
remove from the fire and add the other pint of cold cream, whipped to a stiff 
froth; adding a little at a time, and beating hard. Season with vanilla or lemon. 
Whip the whites of the eggs for the top. Dip the mold in cold M^ater before 
filling; set it in a cold place. To this could be added almonds, pounded; grated 
chocolate, peaches, pineapples, strawbemes, raspberries or any seasonable fruit. 

STRAWBERRY BAVARIAN CREAM. 

Pick off the hulls of a box of strawberries, bi-uise them in a basin with a cup 
of powdered sugar; rub this through a sieve, and mix with it a pint of whipped 
cream and one ounce and a half of clarified isinglass or gelatine; pour the cream 
into a mold, previously oiled. Set it in rough ice, and when it has become firm 
turn out on a dish 

Raspberries or currants may be substituted for strawberries. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 31I 

GOLDEN CREAM. 
Boil a quart of milk; when boiling, stir into it the well-beaten yolks of six 
eggs; add six tablespoonfuls of sugar and one tablespoonful of sifted flour, 
which have been well- beaten together; when boiled, turn it into a dish, and pour 
over it the whites beaten to a stiff froth, mixing with them six tablespoonfuls 
of powdered sugar. Set all in the oven, and brown shghtly. Flavor the top 
with vanilla, and the bottom with lemon. Serve cold. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM. No. i. 

Three ounces of grated chocolate, one-quarter pound of sugar, one and one- 
half pints of cream, one and one-half ounces of clarified isinglass, or gelatine, the 
yolks of six eggs. 

Beat the yolks of the eggs well; put them into a basin with the grated choco- 
late, the sugar, and one pint of the cream; stir these ingredients weU together, 
pour them into a basin, and set this basin in a sauce-pan of boiling water; stir 
it one way until the mixture thickens, but do not allow it to boil, or it will 
curdle. Strain the cream through a sieve into a basin, stir in the isinglass and 
the other one-half pint of cream, which should be well whipped; mix all well 
together, and pour it into a mold which has been previously oiled with the 
purest salad-oil, and, if at hand, set it in ice untU wanted for table. 

CHOCOLATE CREAM OR CUSTARD. No. 2. 
Take one quart of milk, and when nearly boiling stir in two ounces of grated 
chocolate; let it warm on the fire for a few moments, and then remove and cool; 
beat the yolks of eight eggs and two whites with eight tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
then pour the milk over them; flavor and bake as any custard, either in cups or 
a large dish. Make a meringue of the remaining whites. 

LEMON CREAM. No.i. 

One pint of cream, the yolks of two eggs, one quarter of a pound of white 
sugar, one large lemon, one ounce isinglass or gelatine 

Put the cream into a lined sauce-pan, with the sugar, lemon-peel, and isin- 
glass, and simmer these over a gentle fire for about ten minutes, stirring them 
all the time. Strain the cream into a basin add the yolks of eggs, which should 
be well -beaten, and put the basin into a sauce-pan of boiling water; stir the mix- 
tuJe one way until it thickens, but do not allow it to boil; take it off the fire, and 
keep stirring it tmtil nearly cold. Strain the lemon- juice into a basin, gradually 
pour on it the cream, and stir it well until the juice is well mixed with it. Have 



312 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

ready a well-oiled mold, pour the cream into it, and let it remain until perfectly 
set. When required for table, loosen the edges with a small blunt knife, put a 
dish on the top of the mold, turn it over quickly, And the cream should easily 
slip awav. 

LEMON CREAM, No. 2. 

Pare into one quart of boiling water the peels of tour large lemons, the yellow 
outside only; let it stand for four hours; then take them out aud add to the 
water the juice of the four lemons, and one cupful of white, fine sugar. Beat 
the yolks of^ten eggs, and mix all together; strain it through a piece of lawn or 
lace into a porcelain lined stew-pan; set it over a slow fire; stir it one way until 
it is as thick as good cream, hut do not let it boil; then take it from the fire, 
and when cool, serve in custard cups. 

LEMON CREAM. No. 3. 

Peel three lemons, and squeeze out the juice into one quart of milk. Add 
the peel; cut in pieces and cover the mixture for a few hours; then add six eggs, 
well-beaten, and one pint of water, well-sweetened. Strain and simmer over a 
gentle fire till it thickens; do not let it boil. Serve very cold. 

ORANGE CREAM. 

"Whip a pint of cream so long that there will be but one-haK the quantity left 
when skimmed off. Soak in half a cupful of cold water a half package of gela- 
tine, and then grate over it the rind of two oranges. Strain the juice of six 
oranges, and add to it a cupful of sugar; now put the half pint of un whipped 
cream into a double boiler, pour into it the well-beaten yolks of six eggs, stirring 
until it begins to thicken, then add the gelatine. Bemove from the fire, let it 
stand for two minutes and add the orange juice and sugar; beat all together until 
about the consistency of soft custard, and add the whipped cream. Mix well, 
and turn into moulds to harden. To be sei'ved with sweetened cream. Fine, 

SOLID CREAM. 

Four tablespoonf uls of pounded sugar, one quart of cream, two tablespoonfuls 
of brandy, the juice of one large lemon. 

Strain the lemon-juice over the sugar, and add the brandy, then stir in the 
cream, put the mixture into a pitcher and continue pouring from one pitcher to 
another, until it is quite thick, or it may be whisked until 4he desired con' 
sistency is obtained. It should be served in jelly-glasses. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 313 

BANANA CREAM. 
After peeling the bananas, mash them with an ii on or wooden spoon; allow 
equal quantities of bananas and sweet cream; to one quart of the mixture, allow 
one-quarter of a pound of sugar. Beat them all together until the cream is light. 

TAPIOCA CREAM CUSTARD. 
Soak three heaping tablespoonfuls of tapioca in a teacupful of water over 
night. Place over the fire a quart of milk; let it come to a boil, then stir in the 
tapioca; a good pinch of salt; stir until it thickens; then add a cupful of sugar, 
and the beaten yolks of three eggs. Stir it quickly and pour it into a dish and 
stir gently into the mixture the whites beaten stiff, the flavoring, and set it on 
ice, or in an ice-chest. 

PEACH CREAM. No. i. 
Mash very smooth two cupfuls of canned peaches, rub them through a sieve, 
and cook for three minutes in a syrup made by boiling together one cupful oiE 
sugar, and stirring all the time. Place the pan containing thfe syrup and peaches 
into another of boiling water and add one-half packet of gelatine, prepared the 
same as in previous recipes, and stir for five minutes to thoroughly dissolve the 
gelatine; then take it from the fire, place in a pan of ice- water, beat until nearly 
cool, and then add- the well-frothed whites of six eggs. Beat this whole mix- 
ture until it commences to harden. Then pour into a mould, set away to cool, 
and serve with cream and sugar. It should be placed on the ice to cool for two 
or three hours before serving. 

PEACH CREAM. No. 2. 
A quart of fine peacnes, pare and stone the fruit and cut in quarters. Beat 
the whites of three eggs with a half cupful of powdered sugar until it is stiff 
enough to cut with a knife. Take tbe yolks and mix with half a cupful of 
granulated sugar and a pint of milk. Put the peaches into the mixture, place 
in a pudding-dish and bake until almost firm; then put in the whites, mixing all 
thoroughly again, and bake a light brown. Eat ice-cold. 

ITALIAN CREAM. 

Put two pints of cream into two bowls; with one bowl mix six ounces of 

powdered loaf sugar, the juice of two large Ifemons and two glassf uls of white 

wine; then add the other pmt of cream, and stir the whole very hard; boil two 

ounces of isinglass or gelatine with four small teacupfuls of water till reduced to 



314 CUSTARDS. CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

one-half; then stir the mixture lukewarm into the other ingredients; put them 
in a glass dish to congeal. 

SNOW CREAM. 

Heat a quart of thick, sweet cream; when ready to boil, stu into it quickly 
three tablespoonfuls of corn-starcli flour, blended with some cold cream; sweeten 
to taste, and allow it to boil gently, stirring for two or three minutes; add 
quicldy the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff fioth; do not allow it to boil up 
more than once after adding the egg; flavor with lemon, vanilla, bitter almon(f 
or grated lemon peel; lay the snow thus formed quickly in rocky heaps on silver 
or glass dishes, or in shapes. Iced, it will turn out well. 

If the recipe is closely followed, any family may enjoy it at a trifling expense, 
and it is really worthy the table of an epicure. It can be made the day before 
it is to be eaten; kept cold. 

MOCK ICE. 

Take about tnree tablespoonfuls of some good preserve; rub it through a sieve 
with as much cream as will fill a quart mould; dissolve three-quartei'S of an 
ounce of isinglass or gelatine in half a pint of water; when almost cold, mix it 
well with the cream; put it into a mold; set it in a cool place, and turn out 
next day. 

PEACH MERINGUE. 

Pare and quarter (removing stones) a quart of sound, ripe peaches; place them 
aU in a dish that it will not injure to set in the oven, and yet be suitable to place 
on the table. Sprinlde the peaches with sugar, and cover them well with the 
beaten whites of three eggs. Stand the dish . in the oven, until the eggs have 
become a dehcate brown, then remove, and, when cool enough, set the dish on 
ice, or in a very cool place. Take the yolks of the eggs, add to thefii a pint of 
milk, sweeten and flavor, and boil same in a custard kettle, being careful to keep 
the eggs from curdling. When cool, pour into a glass pitcher and serve with 
the meringue when ready to use. 

APPLE FLOAT. 
One dozen apples, pared and cored, one pound and a half of sugar. Put the 
apples on ^vith water enough to cover them, and let them stew until they look 
as if they woiold break; then take them out and put the sugar into the same 
water; let the syrup come to a boil; put in the apples, and let them stew imtil 
done through and clear; then take them out, shoe into the syrup one large 
lemon, and add an ounce of gelatine dissolved in a pint of cold water. Let the 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 315 

whole mix well ana come to a boil; then pour upon the apples. The syrup will 
congeal. It is to be eaten cold with cream. 

Or you may change the dish by making a soft custard with the yolk of four 
eggs, three tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar, and a scant quart of milk. When 
cold, spread it over the apples. Whip the whites of the eggs, flavor with lemon, 
and place on the custard. Color in the oven. 

SYLLABUB. 
One quart of rich milk or cream, a cupful of wine, half a cupful of sugar; 
put the sugar and wine into a bowl, and the milk lukewarm in a separate vesseL 
When the sugar is dissolved in the wine, pour the milk in, holding it high; pour 
it back and forth untU it is frothy. Grate nutmeg over it. 

CREAM FOR FRUIT, 

This recipe is an excellent substitute for pure cream, to be eaten on fresn 
berries and fruit. 

One cupful of sweet milk; heat it until boihng. Beat together the whites 
or two eggs, a tablespoonf ul of white sugar, and a piece of butter the size of a 
nutmeg. Now add half a cupful of cold milk and a teaspoonful of corn-starch; 
stir well together until very hght and smooth, then add it to the boiling milk; 
cook it until it thickens; it must net boil. Set it aside to cool. It should be of 
the consistence of real fresh cream. Serve in a creamer. 

STRAWBERRY SPONGE. 

One quart of strawberries, half a package of gelatine, one cupfiil and a half 
of water, one cupful of sugar, the juice of a lemon, the whites of four eggs. 
Soak the gelatine for two hours in half a cupful of the water. Mash the straw- 
berries, and add half the sugar to them. Boil the remainder of the sugar and 
the water gently twenty minutes. Hub the strawberries through a sieve. Add the 
gelatine to the boiling syrup and take from the fire immediately; then add the 
strawberries. Place in a pan of ice water, and beat five minutes. Add the 
whites of eggs, and beat until the mixture begins to thicken. Pour in the molds 
and set away to harden. Serve with sugar and cream. Kaspberry and black- 
berry sponges are made in the same way. 

LEMON SPONGE. 

Lemon sponge is made from the juice of fom- lemons, four eggs, a cupful of 
sugar, half a package of gelatine, and one pint of water. Strain lemon juice on 
the sugar; heat the yolks of the eggs, and mix with the remainder of the water, 
21 



3l6 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

having used a half cupful of the pint in which to soak the gelatine. Add the 
sugar and lemon to this and cook until it begins to thicken, then add the gela- 
tine. Strain this into a basin, which place in a pan of water to cool. Beat with a 
whisk until it has cooled but not hardened; now add the white of the eggs until 
it begins to thicken, turn into a mold and set to harden. 

Remember, the sponge hardens very rapidly when it commences to cool, so 
have your molds all ready. Serve with powdered sugar and cream. 

APPLE 3N0W. 
Stew some fine-flavored sour apples tender, sweeten to taste, strain them 
through a fine wire sieve, and break into one pint of strained-apples the white 
of an egg; wliisk the apple and egg very briskly till quite stifl!, and it wiU be as 
white as snow; eaten with a nice boiled custard it makes a very desirable 
dessert. More eggs may be used, if Hked. 

QUINCE SNOW. 
Quarter five fair-looking quinces, and boil them till they are tender in water, 
then peel them and push them through a coarse sieve. Sweeten to the taste 
and add the whites of three or four eggs. Then with an egg- whisk beat aU to 
a stiff froth and pile with a spoon upon a glass dish and set away in the ioe-box, 
unless it is to be served immediately. 

ORANGE TRIFLE. 
Take the thin parings from the outside of a dozen oranges and put to steep 
in a wide-mouthed bottle; cover it with good cognac, and let it stand twenty - 
four hours; skin and seed the oranges, and reduce to a pulp; press this through a 
sieve, sugar to taste, arrange in a dish, and heap with whipped cream flavored 
with the orange brandy; ice two hours before serving. 

LEMON TRIFLE. 
The juice of two lemons and grated peel of -one, one .pint of cream, weU- 
sweetened and whipped stiff, one cupful of sherry, a httle nutmeg. Let sugar, 
lemon-juice, and peel lie together two hours before you add wine and nutmeg. 
Strain through double tarlatan, and whip gradually into the frothed cream. Serve 
very soon heaped in smaU glasses. Nice with cake. 

FRUIT TRIFLE. 
Whites of fotu" eggs beaten to a stiff froth, two tablespoonfuls each of sugar, 
currant jelly and raspberry jam. Eaten with sponge cakes, it is a dehcious 
dessert. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS, 317 

GRAPE TRIFLE. 
Pulp through a sieve two pounds of ripe grapes, enough to keep back the 
Btones, add sugar to taste. Put into a trifle dish, and cover with whipped cream, 
nicely flavored. Serve very cold. 

APPLE TRIFLE. 

Peel, core and quarter some good tart apples of nice flavor, and stew them 
with a strip of orange and a strip of quince-peel, suJBficient water to cover the 
bottom of the stew-pan, and sugar in the proportion of half a pound to one 
pound of fruit; when cooked, press the pulp through a sieve; and when cold, 
dish, and cover with one pint of whipped cream, flavored with lemon-peel. 

Quinces prepared in the same manner are equally as good. 

PEACH TRIFLE. 
Select perfect, fresh peaches, peel and core and cut in quarters; they should 
\iQwell sugared, arranged in a trifle dish with a few of their own blanched kernels 
among them, then heaped with whipped cream as above; the cream should not 
be flavored; this trifle should be set on the ice for at least an hour before serv- 
ing; home-made sponge cakes should be served with it. 

GOOSEBERRY TRIFLE. 

One quart of gooseberries, sugar to taste, one pint of custard, a plateful of 
whipped cream. 

Put the gooseberries into a jar, with sufficient moist sugar to sweeten them, 
and boil them until reduced to a pulp. Put this pulp at the bottom of a trifle 
dish; pour over it a pint of custard, and,, when cold, cover with whipped cream. 
The cream should be whipped the day before it is wanted for table, as it wiU 
then be so much firmer and more solid. This dish may be garnished as fancy 
dictates. 

LEMON HONEY. 

One coffee-cupful of white sugar,-, the' grated rind and juice of one large 
lemon, the yolk of three eggs, and the white of one, a tJiblespoonful of butter. 
Put into a basin the sugar and butter, set it in a dish of boiling water over the 
fire; while "this is melting, beat up the eggs, and add to them the grated rind 
from the outside of the lemon; then add this to the sugar and butter, cooking 
and stu'ring it imtil it is, thick and clear like honey. 

This will keep for some days, put int<i a Irfght preserve jar, and is nice for 
flavoring pies, etc. 



318 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

FLOATING ISLANDS. 

Beat the yolks of five eggs and the whites of two very hght; sweeten with 
five tablespoonfuls of sugar and flavor to taste; stir them into a quart of scalded 
niilk and cook it until it thickens. When cool, pour it into a glass dish. Now 
w^hip the whites of the three remaining eggs to a stiff froth; adding three table- 
spoontuls of sugar, and a little flavoring. Pour this froth over a shallow dish 
of boiling water; the steam passing through it cooks it; when sufficiently cooked, 
take a tablespoon and drop spoonfuls of this over the top of the custard, far 
enough apart so that the " little white islands " will not touch each other. By 
dropping a teaspoonful of bright jelly on the top or centre of each island, is pro- 
duced a pleasing effect; also by filling wine-glasses and arranging them around 
a standard adds much to the appearance of the table. 

FLOATING ISLAND. 
One quart of milk, five eggs, and five tablespoonfuls of sugar. Scald the 
milk, then add the beaten yolks and one of the whites together with the sugar. 
First stir into them a little of the scalded milk to prevent curdling, then all of 
the milk. Cook it the proper thickness; remove from the fire, and when cool, 
flavor; then pour it into a glass dish and let it become very cold. Before it is 
served, beat up the remaining four whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and beat 
into them three tablespoonfuls of sugar and two tablespoonfuls of currant ielly. 
Dip this over the ^op of ine custard 

TAPIOCA BLANC MANGE. 
Half a pound of tapioca, soaked an hour in one pint of milk, and boiled till 
tender; add a pinch of salt, sweeten to taste, and put into a mold; when cold, 
turn it out, and serve with strawbeny or raspberry jam around it and a little 
cream. Flavor with lemon or vanilla. 

BLANC MANGE. No. i. 
In one teacupful of water boil until dissolved one ounce of clarified isinglass, 
or of patent gelatine, (which is better); stir it continually while boiling. Then 
squeeze the juice of a lemon upon a cupful of fine, white sugar; stir the sugar 
into a quart of rich cream, and half a pint of Madeira or Sheriy wine; when it 
is well mixed, add the dissolved isinglass or gelatine, stir all well together, pour 
it into molds previously wet with cold water; set the molds upon ice, let them 
stand until their contents are hard and cold, then serve with sugar and cream or 
custard sauce. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS, 319 

BLANC MANGE. No. 2. 
Dissolve two ounces of patent gelatine in cold water; when it is dissolved, 
stir it into two quarts of rich milk, with a teacupful of fine white sugar; season 
it to your taste with lemon, or vanilla, or peach water; place it over the fire and 
boil it, stirring it continually; let it boil five minutes; then strain it through a 
cloth, pour it into molds previously wet with cold water, and salt; let it stand 
on ice, or in any cool place, imtil it becomes hard and cold; turn it out carefully 
upon dishes and serve; or, half fill your mold; when this has set, cover with 
cherries, peaches in halves, strawberries or sUced bananas, and add the re- 
mainder. 

CHOCOLATE BLANC MANGE. 
Half a box of gelatine soaked in a cupful of watei for an hour, half a cupful 
of grated chocolate, rubbed smooth in a Utile milk. Boil two cupfuls of Tnillr, 
then add the gelatine and chocolate, and one cupful of sugar; boil all- together 
eight or ten minutes. Remove from the fire, and when nearly cold beat into 
this the whipped whites of three eggs, flavored with vaniUa. Should be served 
oold with custard made of the yolks, or sugar and cream. Set the molds in a 
cold place. 

CORN-STARCH BLANC MANGE. 

Take one quart of sweet milk, and put one pint upon the stove to heat; in the 
other pint mix four heaping tablespoonfuls of corn-starch and half a cupful of 
sugar; when the milk is hot, pour in the cold milk with the corn-starch and 
sugar thoroughly mixed in it, and stir aU together until there are no hunps and 
it is thick; flavor with lemon; take from the stove, and add the whites of three 
eggs beaten to a stiff froth. 

A Custard for the above.— One pint of milk boUed with a httle salt in it; 
beat the yolks of three eggs with half a cupful of sugar, and add to the boiling 
milk; stir weU, but do not let it boil until the eggs are put in; flavor to taste. 

FRUIT BLANC MANGE. 

Stew nice, fresh fruit (cherries, raspberries, and strawberries being the best), 
or canned ones will do; strain off the juice, and sweeten to taste; place it over 
the fire in a double kettle until it boUs; while boiling, stir in corn-starch wet 
with a httle cold water, allowing two tablespoonfuls of corn-starch to each pint 
of juice; continue stirring until sufficiently cooked; then pour into molds wet ia 
cold water, and set away to cool. Served with cream and sugar. 



320 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

ORANGE CHARLOTTE. 
For two molds of medium size, soak half a box of gelatine in half a cupful 
of water for two hours. Add one and a half cupful of boihng water, and strain. 
Then add two cupfuls of sugar, one of orange juice and pulp, and the juice of 
one lemon. Stir until the mixture begins to cool, or about five minutes; then 
add the whites of six eggs, beaten to a stiff froth. Beat the whole until so stiff 
that it will only just pour into molds lined with sections of orange. Set away 
to cool. 

STRAWBERRY CHARLOTTE. 

Make a boiled custard of one quart of milk, the yolks of six eggs, and three- 
quarters of a cupful of sugax; flavor to taste. Line a glass fruit dish with shoes 
of sponge cake, dipped in sweet cream; lay upon this ripe strawberries sweetened 
to taste; then a layer of cake and strawberries as before. When the custard is 
cold, pour over the whole. Now beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, add 
a tablespoonf ul of sugar to each egg, and put over the top. Decorate the top 
with the largest berries saved out at the commencement. 

Raspberry Charlotte may be made the same way. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. (Fine.) 

Whip one quart of rich cream to a stiff froth, and drain welj on a nice sieve. 
To one scant pint of milk add six, eggs beaten very Mght; make very^weet; 
flavor high with vanilla. Cook over hot water till it is a thick custard. Soak 
one full ounce of Cox's gelatine in a very little water, and warm over hot water. 
When the custard is very cold, beat in Hghtly the gelatine and the whipped 
cream. Line the bottom of your mold with buttered paper, the side with 
sponge cake or lady-fingers fastened together with the white of an egg. Fill 
with the cream, put in a cold place, or in summer on ice. To turn out, dip the 
mold for a moment in hot water. In draining the whipped cream, all that drips 
through can be re- whipped, 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

Cut stale sponge cake into shces about half an inch thick and hne three molds 
with them, leaving a space of half an inch between each shce; set the molds 
where they ^^ not be disturbed until the filling is ready. Take a deep tin pan 
and fill about one-third full of either snow or pounded ice, and into this set 
another pan that will hold at least four quarts. Into a deep bowl or pail (a whip 
churn is better) put one and a half pints of cream (if the Cream is very thick take 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 321 

€ne pint of cream and a half pint of milk); whip it to a froth, and when the 

bowl is full, skim the froth into the pan which is standing on the ice, and 

repeat this until the cream is all froth; then with a spoon draw the froth to one 

side, and you \^dll find that some of the cream has gone back to milk; turn this 

into the bowl again, and whip as before; when the cream is all whipped, stir into 

it two-thirds of a cup of powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of vanilla and half of 

a box of gelatine, which has been soaked in cold water enough to cover it for 

one hour, and then dissolved in boiling water enough to dissolve it (about half 

a cup) ; stir from the bottom of the pan until it begins to grow stiff; fill the molds 

and sfet them on ice in the pan for one hour, or until they are sent to the table. 

When ready to dish them, loosen lightly at the sides and turn out on a flat dish. 

Have, the cream ice-cold when you begin to whip it; and it is a good plan to put 

a lump of ice into the cream while whipping it. 

— Mana Parloa. 

ANOTHER CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

Two tablespoonfuls of gelatme soaked in a little cold milk two hours; two 
coffeecupfuls of rich cream; one teacupful of milk. Whip the cream stiff in a 
large bowl or dish; set on ice. Boil the milk and pour gradually over the gela- 
tine until dissolved, then strain; when nearly cold, add the whipped cream, a 
spoonful at a time. Sweeten with powdered sugar, flavor with extract of vanilla. 
Line a dish with lady-fingers or sponge cake; XKmr in cream, and set in a cool place 
to harden. This is about the same recipe as M. Parloa's, but is not as explicit in 
detail. 

PLAIN CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

Make a rule of white sponge cake; bake in narrow, shallow pans. Then 
make a custard of the yolks, after this recipe. Wet a sauce-pan with cold water 
to prevent the milk that will be scalded in it from burning. Pour out the water 
and put in a quart of milk; boil and partly cool. Beat up the yolks of six eggs, 
and add three omices of sugar and a saltspoonful of salt; mix thoroughly and 
add the luke-warm milk. Stir and pour the custard into a porcelain or double 
sauce-pan, and stir while on the range until of the consistency of cream; do not 
allow it to boil, as that would cm-dle it; strain, and when almost cold, add two 
teaspoonfuls of vanilla. Now having arranged your cake (cut into inch slices) 
around the sides and on the bottom of a glass dish, pour over the custard. If 
you wish a meringue on the top, beat up the whites of four eggs with four table- 
spoonfuls of sugar; flavor with lemon or vaniJa, spread over the top, and brown 
slightly in the oven. 



322 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

PLAIN CHARLOTTE RUSSE. No. 2. 
Put some thin slices of sponge cake in the bottom of a glass sauce-dish ; pour 
in wine enough to soak it; beat up the whites of three eggs until very light; add 
to it three tablespoonfuls of finely powdered sugar, a glass of sweet wine, and 
one pint of thick, sweet cream; beat it well, and pour over the cake. Set it in a 
cold place until served. 

NAPLE BISCUITS, OR CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 
Make a double nile of spongecake; bake it in round, deep patty-pans; when 
cold, cut out the inside about one quarter of an inch from the edge and bottom, 
leaving the shell. Replace the inside with a custard made of the yolks of four 
eggs, beaten with a pint of boiling milk, sweetened and flavored; lay on the top 
of this some jelly or jam; beat the whites of three eggs with three heaping 
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar until it will stand in a heap; flavor it a little; 
place this on the jelly. Set them aside in a cold place until time to serve. 

ECONOMICAL CHARLOTTE RUSSE. 

Make a quart of nicely flavored mock custard, put it into a large glass 
fruit dish, which is partly filled with stale cake (of any kind) cut up into small 
pieces about an inch square, stir it a Uttle, then beat the whites of two or more 
eggs stiff, sweetened with white sugar; spread over the top, set in a refrigerator 
to become cold. 

Or, to be still more economical: To make the cream, take a pint and a half 
of milk, set it on the stove to boil, mix together in a bowl the following named 
articles: large half cup of sugar, one moderately heaped teaspoonful of corn- 
starch, two tablespoonfuls of grated chocolate, one egg, a small half cup of 
milk and a pinch of salt. Pour into the boiling milk, remove to top of the stove 
and let simmer a minute or two. When the cream is cold pour over the cake 
just before setting it on the table. Serve in saucers. If you do not have plenty 
of eggs you can use all corn-starch, about two heaping teaspoonfuls; but be 
careful and not get the cream too thick, and have it free from lumps. 

The cream -ehould be flavored, either with vaniUa or Jemon extract. Nut- 
meg might answer. 

TIPSY CHARLOTTE. 
Take a stale sponge cake, cut the bottom and sides of it, so as to make it 
stand even in a glass fruit dish; make a few deep gashes through it -with a sharp 
knife, pour over it a pint of good wine, let it stand and soak into the cake. In 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 323 

the meantime, blanch, peel and slice lengthwise hal£ a pound of sweet almonds; 
stick them aU over the top of the cake. Have ready a pint of good boiled cus- 
tard, weU flavored, and pour over the whole. To be dished with a spoon. This 
is equally as good as any Charlotte. 

ORANGE CHARLOTTE. 

One-third of a box of gelatine, one-third of a cupful of cold water, one third 
of a cupful 0^ boiling water, and one cup of sugar, the juice of one lemon, 
and one cupful of orange juice and pulp, a httle grated orange-peel and 
the whites of four eggs. Soak the gelatine in the cold water one hour. Pour 
the boiling water over the lemon and orange juice, cover it and let stand half an 
hour; then add the sugar, let it come to a boil on the fire, stir in the gelatine, and 
when it is thoroughly dissolved, take from the fire. When cool enough, beat 
into it the four beaten whites of egg, turn into the mold and set in a cold place 
to stiffen, first placing pieces of sponge cake all around the mold. 

BURNT ALMOND CHARLOTTE. 

One cupful of sweet almonds, blanched and chopped fine, half a box of gela- 
tine soaked two liours in half a cupful of cold water; when the gelatine is suffi- 
ciently soaked, put three tablespoonfuls of sugar into a sauce-pan over the fire 
and stir until it becomes hquid and looks dark; then add the chopped almonds 
to it, and stir two minutes more; turn it out on a platter and set aside to get 
cool. After they become cool enough, break them up in a mortar, put them in 
a cup and a half of milk, and cook again for ten minutes. Now beat together 
the yolk of two eggs ■uith a cupful of sugar, and add to the cooldng mixture; 
add also the gelatine; stir until smooth and well dissolved; take from the fire and 
set in a basin of ice- water and beat it until it begins to thicken; then add to that 
two quarts of whipped cream, and turn the whole carefully into molds, set 
away on the ice xo become firm. Sponge cake can be placed around the mold or 
not, as desired. 

CHARLOTTE RUSSE. WITH PINEAPPLE. 

Peel and cut a pineapple in slices, put the slices into a stew-pan with half a 
pound of fine white sugar,^ haK an ounce of isinglass, or of patent gelatine, 
(which is better), and half a teacupful of water; stew it until it is quite tender, 
then rub it' through a sieve, place it upon ice, and stir it well; when it is upon 
the point of setting, add a pint of cream well whipped, mix it well, and pour it 
into a moid lined vrith sponge cake, or prepared in 'any other way you prefer. 



.^24 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

COUNTRY PLUM CHARLOTTE 

Stone a quart of ripe plums; first stew, and then sweeten them. Cut slices 

of bread and butter, and lay them in the bottom and around the sides of a large 

bowl or deep dish. Pour in the plums boiling hot, cover the bowl, and set it 

away to cool gradually. When quite cold, send it to table, and eat it with cream. 

VELVET CREAM, WITH STRAWBERRIES. 
Dissolve half an ounce of gelatine in a gill of water; ^addto it half a pint of 
light sherry, gi-ated lemon-peel and the juice of one lemon and five ounces of 
sugar. Stir over the fire until the sugar is thoroughly dissolved. Then strain 
and cool. Before it sets beat into it a pint of cream; pour into molds and keep 
on ice until wanted. Half fill the small molds with fine strawberries, pour the 
mixture on top, and place on ice until wanted. 

CORN-STARCH MERINGUE. 

Heat a quart of milk until it boils, add four heaping teaspoonfuls of corn- 
starch which has pieviously been dissolved in a little cold mUk. Stir constantly 
while boiling, for fifteen minutes. Eemove from the fire, and gradually add 
while hot the yolks of five eggs, beaten together with three-fourths of a cupful 
of sugar, and flavored with lemon, vanilla or bitter almond. Bake this mixture 
for fifteen minutes in a well-buttered pudding-dish or until it begins to *' set." 

Make a meringvie of the whites of five eggs, whipped stiff with a half cupful 
of jelly and spread evenly over the custard, without removing the same farther 
than the edge of the oven. 

Use currant jelly if vanilla is used in the custard, crab-apple for bitter almond, 
and strawberry for lemon. Cover and bake for five minutes, after which take 
off the lid and brown the meringue a very little. Sift powdered sugar thickly 
over the top. To be eaten cold. 

WASHINGTON PIE. 
This recipe is the same as " Boston Cream Pie," (adding half an ounce of but- 
ter,) which may be found under the head of '-' Pastry, Pies and Tarts. ' ' In summer 
time, it is a good plan to bake the pie the day before wanted; then when cool, 
wrap around it a paper and place it in the ice-box so as to have it get very cold; 
then serve it with a dish of fresh strawberries, or raspberries. A delicious dessert. 

CREAM PIE. No. 2. 
Make two cakes as for Washington pie, then take one cup of sweet cream 
and three tablespoonfuls of white sugar. Beat viith egg-beater or fork till it is 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 325 

stiff enough to put on without running off, and flavor with vanilla. If you beat 
it after it is stiff it will come to butter. Put between the cakes and on top. 

DESSERT PUFFS. 
Puffs for dessert are delicate and nice; take one pint of milk and cream each, 
the white of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth, one heaping cupful of sifted flour, 
one scant cupful of powdered sugar, add a little grated lemon-peel, and a little 
salt; beat these all together till very light, bake in gem-pans, sift pulverized 
sugar over them, and eat with sauce flavored with lemon. 

PEACH CAKE FOR DESSERT. 

Bake three sheets of sponge-cake, as for jelly-cake;' cut nice ripe peaches in 
thinshces, or chop them; prepare cream by whipping, sweetening and adding 
flavor of vanilla, if desired; put layers of peaches between the sheets of cake; 
pour cream over each layer and over the top. To be eaten soon after it is 
prepared. 

FRUIT SHORT-CAKES. 

For the recipes of strawberry, peach and other fruit short-cakes, look under 
the head of "Biscuits, RoUs and Muffins." They all make a very delicious 
dessert when served with a pitcher of fresh, sweet cream,, when obtainable. 

SALTED OR ROASTED ALMONDS. 

Blanch half a pound of almonds. Put with them a tablespoonful of melted 
butter and one of salt. Stir them till well mixed, then spread them over a 
baking-pan and bake fifteen minutes, or till crisp, stirring often. They must be 
bright yellow-brown when done. They are a fashionable appetizer, and should 
be placed in ornamental dishes at the beginning of dinner, and are used by some 
in place of olives, which, however, shoiild also be on the table, or some fine 
pickles may take their place. 

ROAST CHESTNUTS. 

Peel the raw chestnuts and scald them to remove the inner skin; put them 
in a frying-paa with a little butter and toss them about a few moments; add 
a sprinkle of salt and a suspicion of cayenne. Serve them after the cheese. 

Peanuts may be blanched and roasted the same, 

AFTER-DINNER CROUTONS. 
These crispy croM^ows answer as a substitute for hard-water crackers, and 
are also relished by most people. 

Cut sandwich-bread into slices one-quartei of an inch thick; cut each sUce 



326 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

into four small triangles; dry them in the oven slowly until they assume a deli- 
cate brownish tint, then serve, either hot or cold. A nice way to serve them is 
to spread a paste of part butter and part rich, creamy cheese, to which may be 
added a very Uttle minced parsley 

ORANGE FLOAT. 
To make orange float, take one quart of wat«r, the juice and pulp of two 
lemons, one coffee-cupful of sugar. When boiling hot, add four tablespoonful 
of corn-starch. Let it boil fifteen minutes, stirring all the time. When cold, 
pour it over four or five oranges that have been sliced into a glass dish, and over 
tie top spread the beaten whites of three eggs, sweetened and flavored with 
vanilla. A nice dessert. 

LEMON TOAST. 

This dessert can be made very conveniently without much preparation. 

Take the yolks of six eggs, beat them well, and add three cupfuls of sweet 
milk; take baker's bread, not too stale and cut into slices; dip them into the 
milk and eggs, and lay the slices into a spider, with sufficient melted butter, hot, 
to fry a delicate brown. Take the whites of the six eggs, and beat them to a 
froth, adding a large cupful of white sugar; add the juice of two lemons, heating 
well, and adding two cupfuls of boiling water. Serve over the toast as a sauce, 
aud you will find it a very delicious dish. 

SWEET OMELET. No. i. 
One tablespoonful of butter, two of sugar, one cupful of milk, four eggs. 
Let the milk come to a boil. Beat the flour and butter together ; add to them 
gradually the boiling milk, and cook eight minutes, stirring often; beat the su- 
gar and the yolks of the eggs together; add to the cooked mixture, and set away 
to cool. When cool, beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and add to the 
mixture. Bake in a buttered puddingdi.^h for twenty minutes in a moderate 
oven. Serve imtnediately, with creamy sauce. 

SWEET OMELET. No. 2. 
Four eggs, two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a pinch of salt, half a teaspoonful of 
ranilla extract, one cupful of whipped cream. Beat the whites of the eggs to a 
stiff froth, and gradually beat the flavoring and sugar into them. When well 
beaten add the yolks, and lastly, the whipped cream. Have a dish holding 
about one quart slightly buttered. Pour the mixture into this and bake just 
;t'welve minutes. Serve the moment it is taken from the oven. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 327 

SALAD OF MIXED FRUITS. 
Put in the centre of a dish a pineapple properly pared, cored and sliced, yet 
retaining as near as practicable its original shape. Peel, quarter and remove the 
seeds from foin* sweet oranges; arrange them in a border around the pineapple. 
Select four fine bananas, peel and cut into slices lengthwise; arrange these 
zigzag-fence fashion around the border of the dish. In the V-shaped spaces 
around the dish put tiny mounds of grapes of mixed colors. When complete, 
the dish should look very appetizing. To half a pint of clear sugar syrup add 
half an ounce of good brandy, pour ovei the fruit and serve. 

ORANGE COCOANUT SALAD. 

Peel and slice a dozen oranges, grate a cocoanut, and slice a pineapple. Put 
alternate layers of each until the dish is full. Then pour over them sweetened 
wine. Served with small cakfes. 

When oranges are served whole, they should be peeled and prettily arranged 
in a fruit dish. A small knife is best for this purpose. Break the skin from 
the stem into six or eight even parts, peel each section down half way, and tuck 
the point in next to the orange. 

CRYSTALLIZED FRUIT. 

Pick out the finest of any kind of fruit, leave on their stalks, beat the whites 
of three eggs to. a stiff froth, lay the fruit in the beaten egg vdth the stalks 
upward, drain them and beat the part that drips off again; select them out, one 
by one, and dip them into a cup of finely powdered sugar; cover a pan with a 
sheet of fine paper, place the fruit inside of it, and put it in an oven that is cool- 
ing; when the icing on the fruit becomes firm, pile them on a dish and set them 
in a cool place. For this purpose, oranges or lemons shoiQd be carefully pared, 
end all the white inner skin removed that is possible, to prevent bitterness; then 
cut either in thin horizontal slices if lemons, or in quarters if oranges. For 
cherries, strawberries, cun'ants, etc., choose the largest and finest, leaving stems 
out. Peaches should be pared and cut in halves, and sweet juicy pears may be 
treated in the same way, or look nicely when pared, leaving on the stems, and 
iced. Pineapples should be cut in thin slices, and these, again, divided into 
quarters, 

PEACHES AND CREAM. 
Pare and slice the peaches just before sending to table. Cover the glass dish 
containing them to exclude the air as much as .possible, as they soon change 



328 CUSTAJiDS,j:JiEAMS AND DESSERTS. 

color. Do not sugar them in the dish — they then become preserves, not fresh 
fruit. Pass the powdered sugar and cream with them. 

SNOW PYRAMID. 

Beat to a stiff foam the whites of halt a dozen eggs, add a small teacupful of 
currant jelly, and whip all together again. Fill half full of cream as many 
saucers as you have guests, dropping in the centre of each saucer a tablespoon- 
ful of the beaten eggs and jelly in the shape of a pyramid. 

JELLY FRITTERS. 
Make a batter of three eggs, a pint of milk, and a pint bowl of wheat flour 
or more, beat it light; put a tablespooniul of lard or beef fat in a fr}'ing or 
omelet pan, add a saltspoonfulof salt, making it boihng hot, put in the batter by 
the large spoonful, not too close; -when one side is a delicate bro^^a), turn the 
other; when done, take them on to a dish with a d'oyley over it; put a dessert- 
spoonful of firm jelly or jam on each, and serve. A very nice dessert. 

STEWED APPLES. No. i. 

Take a dozen green, tart apples, core and slice them, put into a sauce- pan 
with just enough water to cover them, cover the sauce-pan closely, and stew the 
apples until they are tender and clear; then take them out, put them into a deep 
dish and cover them; add to the juice in the sauce- pan a cupful of loaf sugar for 
every twelve apples, and boil it half an hour, adding to the syrup a pinch of 
mace and a dozen whole cloves just ten minutes before taking from the fire; 
pour scalding hot over the apple, and set them in a cold place; eat ice cold with 
cream or boiled custard. 

STEWED APPLES. No. 2. 

Apples cooked in the following way look very pretty on a tea-table and are 
appreciated by the palate. Select firm round greenings, pare neatly and cut in 
halves; place in a shallow stew-pan with sufficient boUing water to cover them 
and a cup of sugar to every six apples. Each half should cook on the bottom of 
the pan and be removed from the others so as not to injure its shape. Stew 
slowly imtil the pieces are very tender, remove to a glass dish carefully, boil the 
syrup a half hour longer, pour it over the apples and eat cold. A few pieces of 
lemon boiled in the syrup adds to the flavor. 

BAKED PEARS. 
Pare and core the pears, without dividing; place them in a pan, and fill up 
the orifice with brown sugar; add a little water, and let them bake until per- 
fectly tender. Nice with sweet cream or boiled custard. 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 329 

STEWED PEARS. 

Stewed pears with a thick syrup make a fine dessert dish accompanied with 
cake. 

Peel and cut them in halves, leaving the stems on, and scoop out the cores. 
Put them into a sauce-paa, placing them close together, with the stems upper- 
most. Pour over sufficient water, a cup of sugar, a few whole cloves, and some 
sticks of cinnamon, a tatilespoonf ul of lemon juice. Cover the stew-pan closely, 
to stew gently till the fruit is done, which wiU depend on the quaUty of the 
fruit. Then take out the fruit carefully, and arrange it on a dish for serving. 
Boil down the syrup until quite thick; strain it and allow it to cool enough to 
set it; then pour it over the fruit. 

The juice could be colored by a few drops of liquid cochineal, or a few shoes 
of beets, while boihng. A teaspoonful of brandy adds hiuch to the flavor. 
Serve with cream or boiled custard. 

BAKED QUINCES. 

Take ripe quinces, pare and quarter them, cut out the seeds; then stew them 
in clear water untU a straw will pierce them; put into a baking dish with half a 
cupful of loaf sugar to every eight quinces; pour over them the liquor in which 
they were boiled, cover closely, and bake in the oven one hour; then take out 
the quinces and put them into a covered dish; return the syrup to the sauce-pan 
and boil twenty minutes; then pour over the quinces, and set them away to cool. 

GOOSEBERRY FOOL. 

Stew a quart of ripe gooseberries in just enough water to cover them, when 
soft, rub them through a colander to remove the skins and seeds; while h©t stir 
into them a tablespoonful of melted butter, and a cupful of sugar. Beat the 
yolks of three eggs, and add that; whip aU together until light. Fill a large 
glass fruit dish, and spread on the top of the beaten whites mixed with three 
tablespoonf uls of sugar. Apples or any tart fruit is nice made in this manner. 

MERINGUES OR KISSES. 
A cofifee-cupful of fine, white sugar, the whites of six eggs; whisk the whites 
of the eggs to a stiff froth, and with a wooden spoon stir in quickly the pounded 
sugar; and have some boards put in the oven thick enough to prevent the bottom 
of the meringues from acquiring too much color. Cut some strips of paper 
about two inches wide; place this paper on the board and drop a tablespoonful 
at a time of the mixture on the paper, taking care to let aU the meringues be the 



330 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

fiame size. In dropping it from the spoon, give the mixture the form of an 
egg, and keep the meringues about two inches apart from each other on the 
paper. Strew over them some sifted sugar, and bake in a moderate oven for 
half an hour. As soon as they begin to color, remove them from the oven; take 
each slip of paper by the two ends, and turn it gently on the table, and, with a 
small spoon take out the soft part of each meringue. Spread some clean paper 
on the board, turn the meringues upside down, and put them into the oven to 
harden, and brown on the other side. When required for table, fill them with 
whipped cream, flavored with liquor or vanilla, and sweeten with poimded 
sugar. Join two of the meringues together, and pile them high in the dish. To 
vary their appearance, finely chopped almonds or currants may be strewn over 
them before the sugar is sprinkled over; and they may be garnished with any 
bright-colored preserve. Great expedition is necessary in making this sweet dish, 
as, if the meringues are not put into the oven as soon as the sugar and eggs are 
mixed, the former melts, and the mixture would run on the paper instead of 
keeping its egg-shape. The sweeter the meringues are made the crisper vdll 
they be; but if there is not sufficient sugar mixed with them, they will most 
hkely be tough. They are sometimes colored with cochineal; and, if kept well- 
covered in a dry place, will remain good for a month or six weeks. 

JELLY KISSES. 

Kisses, to be served for dessert at a large dinner, with other suitable confec- 
tionary, may be varied in this way: Having made the kisses, heap them in the 
shape of half an egg, placed upon stiff letter-paper lining the bottom of a thick 
baking- pan; put them in a moderate oven until the outside is a httle hardened; 
then take one off carefully, take out the soft inside with the handle of a spoon, 
and put it back with the mixture, to make more; then lay the shell down. Take 
another and prepare it hkewise; fill the shells with currant jelly or jam; join 
two together, cementing them with some of the mixture; so continue until you 
have enough. Make kisses, cocoanut drops, and such like, the day before they 
are wanted. 

This recipe will make a fair-sized cake-basket fuU. It 'adds much to their 
beauty when served up to tint half of them pale pink, then unite white and 
pink. Serve on a high glass dish. 

COCOANUT MACAROONS. 

Make a' '* kiss " mixture, add to it the white meat, grated, and finish as 
directed for " Kisses " 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 331 

ALMOND MACAROONS. 

Half a pound of sweet almonds, a coffee-cupful of white sugar, the whites o£ 
two eggs; blanch the almonds and pound them to a paste; add to them the sugar 
and the beaten whites of eggs; work the whole together with the back of a 
spoon, then roll the mixture in your hands in balls about the size of a nutmegi 
dust sugar over the top, lay them on a sheet of paper at least an inch apart. 
Bake in a cool oven a hght brown. 

CHOCOLATE MACAROONS. 

Put three ounces of plain chocolate in a pan and melt on a slow fire; then 
work it to a thick paste with one pound of powdered sugar and the whites of 
three eggs; roll the mixture down to the thickness of about one-quarter of an 
inch; cut it in small, round pieces with a paste -cutter, either plain or scalloped^ 
butter a pan slightly, and dust it with flour and sugar in equal quantities; place 
in it the pieces of paste or mixture, and bake in a hot but not too quick oven. 

LEMON JELLY. No. i.. 

Wash and prepare four calf's feet, place them in four quarts of water, and 
let them simmer gently five hours. At the expiration of this time take them 
out and pour the liquid into a vessel to cool; there should be nearly a quart. 
When cold, remove every particle of fal^ replace the jelly into the preserving- 
kettle, and add one poimd of loaf sugar, the rind and juice of two lemons; when 
the sugar has dissolved, beat two eggs with their shells in one gill of water, 
which pour into the kettle, and boil five minutes, or until perfectly clear; then 
add one gill of Madeira wine, and strain through a flannel bag into any form 
you like. 

LEMON JELLY. No. 2. 

To a package of gelatine add a pint of cold water, the juice of four lemons 
and the rind of one; let it stand one hour, then add one pint of boiUng water, a 
pinch of cinnamon, three cups of sugar; let it all come to a boil; strain through 
a napkin into molds; set away to get cold. Nice poured over sliced bananas and 
oranges. 

WINE JELLY. 

One package of gelatine, one cupful of cold water soaked together two hours; 
add to this three cupfuls of sugar, the juice of three lemons and the grated rind 
of one. Now pour over this a quart of boiling water, and stir until dissolved^ 

«22 



332 CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 

then add a pint of sherry wine. Slram through a napkin, turn into molds 
dipped in cold water, and placed in the ice-box for several hours. 

One good way to mold this jelly is to pour some of it into the mold, harden 
it a httle, put in a layer of strawberries or raspberries, or any fresh fruit in 
season, pour in jelly to set them; after they have set, another layer of jelly, then 
another of berries, and so fill each mold, alternating with jelly and hemes. 

CIDER JELLY. 

This can be made the same, by substituting clear, sweet cider in place of the 
wine. 

ORANGE JELLY. 

Orange jelly is a great dehcacy, and not expensive. To make a large dish, 
get six oranges, two lemons, a two-ounce package of gelatine. Put the gelatine 
to soak in a pint of water, squeeze the orange- juice into a bowl, also the lemon 
juice, and grate one of the lemotf skins in with it. Put about two cupfuls of 
sugar with the gelatine, then stir in the orange- juice, and pour over all three 
pints of boiling water, stirring constantly. When the gelatine is entirely dis- 
solved, strain through a napkin into molds or bowls wet with cold water, and 
set aside to harden. In three or four hours it will be ready for use, and will last 
several days. 

VARIEGATED JELLY. 

After dividing a box of Cox's gelatine into halves, put each half into a bowl 
with half a cupful of cold water. Put three-quarters of an oimce or six sheets 
of pink gelatine into a third bowl containing three- fourths of a cupful of cold 
water. Cover the bowls to keep out the dust, and set them away for two houi-s. 
At the end of that time, add a pint of boihng water, a cupful of sugar, half a 
pint of wine, and the juice of lemon to the pink gelatine, and, after stirring till 
the gelatine is dissolved, strain the liquid through a napkin. Treat one of the 
other portions of the gelatine in the same way. Beat together the yolks of four 
eggs and half a cupful of sugar, and, after adding this mixture to the third 
portion of gelatine, stir the new mixture into a pint and a third of boiling milk, 
contained in a double boiler. Stir on the fire for three minutes, then strain 
through a fine sieve, and flavor with a teaspoonful of vanilla extract. Place in 
a deep pan two molds, each holding about three pints, and surround them with 
ice and water. Pour into these molds, in equal parts, the wine jelly which 
was made with the clear gelatine, and set it away to harden. When it has 
become set, pour in the pink gelatijie. which should have been set away in a 



CUSTARDS, CREAMS AND DESSERTS. 333 

place not cold enough to make it harden. After it has been transferred and has 
become hard, pour into the molds the mixture of eggs, sugar and gelatine 
which should be in a liquid state. Set the molds in an ice-chest for three or four 
hours. At serving time, dip them into tepid, water to loosen the contents, and 
gently turn the jelly out upon flat dishes. 

The clear jelly may be made first and poured into molds, then the pink jelly, 
and finally the &^g jelly. 

STRAWBERRY JELLY. 

Strawberries, pounded sugar; to every pint of juice allow half a package of 
Cox's gelatine. 

Pick the strawberries, put them into a pan, squeeze them well with a wooden 
spoon, add sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten them nicely, and let them remain 
for one hour, that the juice may be extracted; then add half a pint of water to 
every pint of juice. Strain the strawberry juice and water through a napkin; 
measure it, and to every pint allow half a package of Cox's gelatine, dissolved 
in a teacupful of water. Mix this with the juice; put the jelly into a mold, and 
set the mold on ice. A little lemon juice added to the strawberry juice improves 
the flavor of the jelly, if the fruit is very ripe; but it must be well strained 
before it is put with the other ingredients, or it will make the jelly muddy. 
Delicious and beautiful. 

RECIPE FOR CHEESE CUSTARD. 

For three persons, 2 ounces of grated parmesan cheese ; the whites of 
3 eggs, beaten to a stiff froth ; a little pepper and salt and cayenne ; a little 
milk or cream to mix; bake for a quarter of an hour. 






tJL'e)' "^(^ ^i^^ ^1^^ ^W^"^'^ 

ICE-CREAM. 

One pint of milk, the yolks of two eggs, six ounces of sugar, and one table- 
spoonful of corn-starch. Scald, but do not boil. Then put the whites of the two 
eggs into a pint of cream; whip it. Mix the milk and cream, flavor and freeze. 
One teaspoonful of vanilla or lemon is generally sufficient. 

The quantity, of course, can be increased to any amount desired, so long as 
the relative proportions of the different ingredients are observed. 

PURE ICE-CREAM. 

Genmne ice-cream is made of the pure sweet cream in. this proportion: Two 
quarts of cream, one pound of sugar; beat up, flavor, and freeze. 

For femily use, select one of the new patent freezers, as being more rapid 
and less laborious for small quantities than the old style turned entirely by hand. 
All conditions being perfect, those with crank and revolving dashers effect freez- 
ing in eight to fifteen minutes. 

FRUIT ICE-CREAM. 

Ingredients. — To every pmt of fruit- juice aUow one pint of cream; sugar to 
taste. 

Let the fruit be well ripened; pick it oft the, stalks, and put- it into a large 
earthen pan. Stir it about with a wooden spoon, breaking it until it is well- 
mashed; then, with the back of the spoon, rub it through a hair-sieve. Sweeten 
it nicely vdth pounded sugar; whip the cream for a few minutes, add it to the 
fruit, and whisk the whole again for another five minutes. Put the mixture 
into the freezer and freeze. Raspberry, strawbeiry, cmrant, and all fruit ice- 
creams, are made in the same manner. A little pounded sugar sprinkled over 
the fruit before it is mashed assists to extract the juice. In winter, when fresh 
fruit is not obtainable, a little jam may be substituted for it; it should be melted 



ICE-CREAM AND ICES. 335 

and worked through a sieve before being added to the whipped cream; and if 
the color should not be good, a little prepared cochineal may be put in to improve 
its appeai'ance. 

In making berry flavoring for ice-cream, the milk should never be heated; 
the juice of the berries added to cold cream, or fresh, rich milk, mixed with cold 
cream, the juice put in just before freezing, or when partly frozen. 

CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM. No. I. (Very fine.) 
Add four ounces of grated chocolate to a cupful of sweet milk, then mix it 
thoroughly to a quart of thick, sweet cream; no flavoring is required but vanilla. 
Sweeten with a cupful of sugar; beat again and freeze. 

CHOCOLATE ICE-CREAM. No. 2. 

Beat two eggs very light, and cream them with two cupfuls of sugar. Scald 
a pint of milk and turn on by degrees, mixing well with the sugar and eggs. 
Stir in this half a cupful of grated chocolate; return to the fire, and heat until it 
thickens, stirring briskly; take off, and set aside to cool. When thoroughly 
cold, freeze. 

COCOANUT ICE-CREAM 

Onei quart of cream, one pint of milk, three eggs, one cupful and a half of 
sugar and one of prepared cocoanut, the rind and juice of a lemon. Beat 
together the eggs and grated "lemon-rind, and put with the milk in the double 
boiler. Stir until the mixture begins to thicken. Add the cocoanut and put 
away to cool. When cool, add the sugar, lemon- juice and cream. Frf eze. 

CUSTARD ICE-CREAM. 
Sweeten one quart of cream or rich milk with half a pound of sugar, and 
flavor to taste; put it over the fire in a farina-kettle; as soon as it begins to boil, 
stir into it a tableepoonful of corn -starch or rice flour which has been previously 
mixed smooth with a httle milk; after it has boiled a few minutes, take it off 
the fire and stir in very gradually six eggs which have been beaten until thick; 
when quite cold, freeze it as ice-cream. 

STRAWBERRY ICE-CREAM. 
Mix a cupful of sugar with a quart of ripe strawberries, let them stand half 
a day, then mash and strain them through a coarse towel, then add to the juice 
a full cupful of sugar, and when dissolved, beat in a quart of fresh, thick cream. 
Raspberries, pineapple and other fruits made the same. 



336 JCE.CREAM AND ICES, 

FRUIT CREAM. 
Make a rich, boiled custard; flavor with wine and vanilla; pour into a freezer. 
When half frozen, add pounded almonds, chopped citron and brandy, peaches 
or chopped raisins. Have the freezer half full of custard and fill up with the 
fruit. Mix well, and freeze again. Almost any kind of fruits that are pre- 
ferred may be substituted for the above. 

TUTTI FRUTTI ICE-CREAM. 
Take two quarts of the richest cream, and add to it one pound of pulverized 
sugar, and four whole eggs; mix well together; place on the fire, stirring con- 
stantly, and just bring to boiling point; now remove immediately and continue 
to stir until nearly cold; flavor with a tablesponnful of extract of vanilla; place 
in freezer and when half frozen, mix thoroughly into it one poimd of preserved 
fruits, in equal parts of peaches, apricots, gages, cherries, pineapples, etc. ; all 
of these fruits are to be cut up into small pieces, and mixed well with the frozen 
cream. If you desire to mold this ice, sprinkle it with a little carmine, dissolved 
in a teaspoonful of water, with two drops of spirits of ammonia; mix in this 
color, so that it will be streaky, or in veins hke marble. 

ICE-CREAM WITHOUT A FREEZER. 
Beat the yolks of eight eggs very light, and add thereto four cupfuls of sugar, 
and stir well. Add to this, Uttle by httlo, one quart of rich milk that has been 
heated almost to boiling, beating all the while; then put in the whites of eight 
eggs beaten to a stiff froth. Then boil the mixture in a pail set inside another 
containing hot water. Boil about fifteen minutes, or until it is as thick as a 
boiled custard, stirring steadily meanwhile. Pour into a bowl to cool. When 
quite cold, beat into it three pints of rich sweet cream and five teaspoOnf uls of 
vanilla, or such other flavoring as you prefer. Put it into a pail having a close- 
fitting cover, and pack in pounded ice and salt — rock salt, not the common kind, 
— about three-£ourths ice and one-fourth salt. When packed, before putting 
the ice on top of the cover, beat the custard as you would batter, for five minutes 
steady; then put on the cover and put the ice and salt over it, and cover the 
whole with a thick mat, blanket or carpet, and let it stand for an hour. Then 
carefully imcover and scrape from the bottom and sides of the pail the thick 
coating of frozen custard, making every particle clear, and beat again very 
hard, imtil the custard is a smooth, half -congealed paste. Do this thoroughly. 
Put on the cover, ice, salt and blanket, and leave it for five or six hours, re- 
plenishing the ice and salt if necessary. 

Common Sense in the Households 



ICE-CREAM AND ICES. 337 

FROZEN PEACHES. 

One can or twelve large peaches, two cofifee-cupfuls of /sugar, one pint of 
water, and the whites of thi-ee eggs beaten to a stiff froth; break the peaches 
rather fine and stir all the ingredients together; freeze the whole into form. 

Frozen fruits of any kind can be made the same way; the fruit should be 
mashed to a smooth pulp, but not thinned too much. In freezing, care should 
be taken to prevent its getting lumpy. 

FROZEN FRUITS. 

The above recipe, increasing the quantity of peaches, raspberries or whatever 
fruit you may use, and adding a small amount of rich cream, make fine frozen 
fruits. In freezing, you must be especially careful to prevent its getting lumpy. 

^ LEMON ICE. 

The juice of six lemons and the grated rind of three, a large sweet orange, 
juice and rind; squeeze out aU the juice, and steep in it the rind of orange and 
lemons a couple of hours; then squeeze and strain through a towel, add a pint 
of water and two cupfuls of sugar. Stir until dissolved, turn into a freezer, 
then proceed as for ice-cream, letting it stand longer, two or three hours. 

When fruit jellies are used, gently heat the water sufficiently to melt them; 
then cool and freeze. Other flavors may be made in this manner, varying the 
flavoring to taste. 

PINEAPPLE SHERBET. 

Grate two pineapples and mix with two quarts of water, and a pint of sugar; 
add the juice of two lemons, and the beaten whites of four eggs. Place in a 
freezer and freeze, 

RASPBERRY SHERBET. 

Two quarts of raspberries, one cupful of sugar, one pint and a half of water, 
the juice of a large lemon, one tablespoonful of gelatine. Maah the berries and 
sugar together and let them stand two hours. Soak the gelatine in cold water 
to cover. Add one pint of the water to the berries, and strain. Dissolve the 
gelatine, in half a pint of boiling water, add this to the strained mixture and 
freeze. 

ORANGE-WATER ICE. 

Add a tablespoonful of gelatine to one gill of water; let it stand twenty minutes 
and add half a pint of boiling water; stir until dissolved and add fom: ounces of 



338 ICE-CREAM AND ICES. 

powdered sugar, the strained juice of six oranges, and cold water enough to 
make a full quart in alL Stir until the sugar is dissolved; pour into the freezing 
can and freeze (see " Lemon Ice.") 

ALMOND ICE. 

Two pints of milk, eight ounces of cream, two ounces of orange-flower water, 
eight oimces of sweet almonds, four ounces of bitter almonds; pound all in a 
marble mortar, pouring, in, from time to time, a few drops of water; when 
thoroughly pounded add the orange-flower water and half of the milk; pass 
this, tightly squeezed, through a cloth ; boil the rest of the milk with the 
cream, and keep stirring it with a wooden spoon; as soon as it is thick 
enough, pour in the almond milk; give it one boiling, take it off and let it cool 
in a bowl or pitcher, before pouring it into the mold for freezing. 

CURRANT ICE. 

A refreshing ice is made of currants or raspberries, or equal portions of each. 
Squeeze enough fruit in a jelly -bag to make a pint of juice; add a pint each of 
the water and sugar; pour the whole, boiling hot, on to three whites of eggs, 
beaten to a stiff froth, and whip the mixture thoroughly. When cool, freeze in 
the usual manner. Part red raspberry juice is a much finer flavor. 

Any juicy fruit may be prepared in this manner. 






It depends as much upon the judgment of the cook as on the materials used 
to make a good pudding. Everything should be the best in the way of materials, 
and a proper attention to the rules, with some practice, will ensure success. 

Puddings are either boiled, baked, or steamed; if boiled, the materials should 
be well worked together, put into a thick cloth bag, previously dipped in hot 
water, wringing it sUghtly, and. dredging the inside thickly with flour; tie it 
firmly, allowing room for it to swell; drop it into a kettle of boiling water, with 
a small plate or saucer in the bottom to keep it from sticking to the kettle. It 
should liot cease boiling one moment from the time it is put in until taken out, 
and the pot must be tightly covered, and the cover not removed except when 
necessary to add water from the 6oi7fwgf tea-kettle when the water is getting 
low. When done, dip immediately in cold water and turn out. This should be 
done just before placing on the table. 

Or, butter a tin pudding-mold or an earthen bowl; close it tight so that water 
cannot penetrate; drop it into boihng water and boil steadily the required time 
If a bowl is used it should be well buttered, and not quite filled with the pud 
ding, allowing room for it to swell; then a cloth wet in hot water, slightly 
wringing it, then floured on the inner side, and tied over the bowl, meeting 
under the bottom. 

To steam a pudding, put it into a tin pan or earthen dish; tie a doth over the 
top, first dredging it in flour, and set it into a steamer. Cover the steamer 
closely; allow a little longer time than you do for boihng. 

Molds or basins for baking, steaming or boiUng should be well buttered before 
the mixture is put into them. Allow a Uttle longer time for steaming than for 
boiling. 

Dumplings boiled the same way, put into little separate cloths. 

Batter puddings should be smoothly mixed and free from lumps. To ensure 



340 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

this, first mix the flour with a very small proportion of milk, the yolks of the 
eggs and sugar thoroughly beaten together, and added to this; then add the 
remainder of the milk by degrees, then the seasoning, then the beaten whites of 
eggs last. Much success in making this kind of pudding "oepends upon a strict 
observance of this rule; for, although the materials may "be good, if the eggs 
are put into the milk before they are mixed with the flour, there will be a cus- 
tard at the top and a soft dough at the bottom of your dish. 

All sweet puddings require a liille salt to prevent insipidity and to draw out 
the flavor of the several ingredients, but a grain too much will spoil any pudding. 

In puddings where wine, brandy, cider, lemon- juice or any acid is used, it 
should be stirred in last, and gradually, or it is apt to curdle the milk or eggs. 

In making custard puddings (puddings made with eggs and milk\ the yolk 
of the eggs and sugar should be thoroughly beaten together before any of the 
milk or seasoning is added, and the beaten whites of egg last. 

In making puddings of bread, rice, sago, tapioca, etc., the eggs should be 
beaten very light, and mixed with a portion of the milk, before adding them to 
the other ingredients. If the eggs are mixed with the milk, without having 
been thus beaten, the milk will be absorbed by the bread, rice, sago, tapioca, 
etc., without rendering them light. 

The freshness of all pudding ingredients is of much importance, as one bad 
article wiU taint the whole mixture. 

When the freshness of eggs is doubtful, break eacn one separately in a cup, 
before mixing them all together. Should there be a bad one amongst them, it 
can be thrown away; whereas, if mixed with the good ones, the entire quantity 
would be spoiled. The yolks and whites beaten separately make the articles 
they are put into much lighter. 

Eaisins and dried fruits for puddings should be carefully picked, and, in 
many cases, stoned. Currants should be well- washed, pressed in a cloth, and 
placed on a dish before the fire to get thoroughly dry; they should then be picked 
carefully over, and every piece of grit or stone removed from amongst them. 
To plump them, some cooks pour boiling water over them, and then dry them 
before the fire. 

Many baked-pudding recipes are quit© as good boiled. As a safe rule, boil 
the pudding twice as long as you would require to bake it; and remember that a 
boiling pudding should never be touched after it is once put on the stove; a jar 
of the kettle destroys the lightness of the pudding. If the water boils down and 
more must be added, it must be doneso carefully that the mold will not hit the 
side of the kettle, and it must not be allowed to stop boiling for an instant. 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. l\\ 

Batter should never stick to the knife when it is sent to the table; it will do 
this both when a less than sufficient number of eggs is mixed with it and when 
it is not enough cooked; about four eggs to the half pound of flour will make it 
firm enough to cut smoothly. 

When baked or boiled puddings are sufficiently solid, turn them out of the 
dish they were baked in, bottom uppermost, and strew over them finely sifted 
sugar. 

When pastry or baked puddings are not done through, and yet the outside is 
sufficiently brown, cover them over with a piece of white paper until thoroughly 
cooked; this prevents them from getting burnt. 

TO CLEAN CURRANTS. 
Put them in a sieve or colander, and sprinkle them thickly with flour; rub 
them well until they are separated, and the flour, grit and fine stems have passed 
through the strainer. Place the strainer and cmrants in a pan of water and 
wash thoroughly; then lift the strainer and currants together, and change the 
water until it is clear. Dry the currants between clean towels. It hardens 
them to dry in an oven. 

TO CHOP SUET. 
Break or cut in small pieces, sprinkle with sifted flour, and chop in a cold 
place to keep it from becoming sticky and soft. 

TO STONE RAISINS. 

Put them in a dish and pour boiling water over them; cover and let them 
remain in it ten minutes; it wiU soften so that by rubbing each raisin between 
the thumb and flnger, the seeds will come out clean; then they are ready for 
cutting or chopping if required. 

APPLE DUMPLINGS. 
Make a rich biscuit dough, the same as soda or baking-powder biscuit, only 
adding a Uttle more shorteniBg. Take a piece of dough out on the molding- 
board, roll out almost as thin as pie-crust; then cut into square pieces large 
enough to cover an apple. Put into the middle of each piece two apple halves 
that have been pared and cored; sprinkle on a spoonful of sugar and a pinch of 
ground cinnamon, turn the ends of the dough over the apple, and lap them 
tight. Lay the dumplings in a dripping-pan well buttered, the smooth side 
upward. When the pans are filled, put a small piece of butter on. the top of 
each, sprinkle over a large handful of sugar, turn in a cupful of boiling water. 



342 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

then place in a moderate oven for tliree-quarters of an hour. Baste with the 
liquor once while baking. Serve with pudding-sauce or cream and sugar. 

BOILED APPLE DUMPLINGS. 

The same recipe as the above, with the exception that they are put into a 
small coarse cloth well-floured after being dipped in hot water. Each cloth to 
be tied secm'ely, but leaving room enougli for the dumpling to swell. Put them 
ii a pot of boiling water and boil three-quarters of an hour. Serve 'with sweet 
sauce. Peaches and other fruits used in the same manner. 

BOILED RICE DUMPLINGS^ CUSTARD SAUCE. 

Boil half a pound of rice; drain, and mash it moderately fine Add to it two 
ounces of butter, three ounces of sugar, half a saltspoonful of mixed ground 
spice, salt and the yolks of two eggs. Moisten a trifle with a tablespoonful or 
two of cream. With floured hands shape the mixture into balls, and tie them 
in floured pudding-cloths. Steam or boil forty minutes, and send to table with 
a custard sauce made as follows: 

Mix together four ounces of sugar and two ounces of butter (slightly 
warmed). Beat together the yolks of two eggs and a giU of cream; mix and 
pour the sauce in a double sauce-pan; set this in a pan of hot water, and whisk 
thoroughly three minutes. Set the sauce-pan in cold water and whisk imtil the 
sauce is cooled. 

SUET DUMPLINGS. No. i. 

One pint bowl of fine bread-crumbs, one-half cupful of beef suet chopped fine, 
the whites and yolks of four eggs beaten separately and very light, one tea- 
spoonful of cream tartar sifted into half a cupful of flour, half a teaspoonful of 
soda dissolved in a httle water, and a teaspoonful of salt. Wet it all together 
with milk enough to make a stiff paste. Flour your hands and make into balls. 
Tie up in separate cloths that have been wrung out in hot water, and floured 
inside;, leave room, when tying, for them to swell. Drop them into boiling 
water and boil about three-quarters of an hour. Serve hot, with wine sauce, or 
syrup and butter. 

SUET DUMPLINGS. No. 2. 

One cupful of suet chopped fine, one cupful of grated English muffins or 
bread, one cupful of flour, half a teaspoonful of baking-powder, half a cupful of 
sugar, two eggs, one pint of milk, a large pinch of salt. Sift together powder 
and flour, add the beaten eggs, grated muffins, sugar, suet and nulk; form into 
smooth batter, which drop by tablespoonfula into a pint of boiling milk, three 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 343 

or foui- 'xt a time; when done, dish, and pour over them the milk they werd 
boiled in. A Danish dish; very good. 

PRESERVE DUMPLINGS. 

Preserved peaches, plxm^s, quinces, cherries or any other sweetmeat; make a 
hght crust, and roll a small piece of moderate thickness and fill with the fruit 
in quantity to make the size of a peach dumphng; tie eacli one in a dumphng 
cloth, well floured inside, drop them into hot water, and boil half an hom*; when 
done, remove the cloth, send to table hot, and eat with cream. 

OXFORD DUMPLINGS. 
Beat until quite hght one tablespoonful of sugar and the yolks of three eggs, 
add half a cupful of finely chopped suet, half a cupful of EngUsh currants, one 
cupful of sifted flour, in which there has been sifted a heaping teaspoonful of 
baking-powder, a httle nutmeg, one teaspoonful of salt, and lastly, the beaten 
whites of the eggs; flour your hands and make it into balls the size of an egg; 
boil in separate cloths one hour or more. Serve with wine sauce. 

LEMON DUMPLINGS. 

Mix together a pint of grated bread-crumbs, half a cupful of chopped suet, 
half a cupful of moist sugar, a httle salt, and a small tablespoonful of flour, add- 
ing the grated rind of a lemon. Moisten it all with the whites and yolks of two 
eggs, xvell beaten, and the juice of the lemoa, strained. Stir it aU well together, 
and put the mixture into small cups well buttered; tie them down with a cloth 
dipped in flour, and boil three-quarters of an hour. Turn them out 01 a dish, 
strew sifted sugar over them, and serve with wine sauce. 

BOILED APPLE PUFFETS. 

Three eggs, one pint of milk, a httle salt, sufficient flom: to thicken as waflBe- 
batter; one and one-half teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Fill teacups alter- 
Qately with a layer of batter, and then of apples chopped fine. Steam one 
hour. Serve hot with flavored cream and sugar. You can substitute any fresh 
fruit or jams your taste prefers. 

COMMON BATTER. 
For boiled pudding, fritters, etc., is made with one cupful of milk, a pinch of 
salt, two eggs, one tablespoonful of melted butter, one cupful of flour, and a 
small teaspoonful of baking-powder. Sift the flour, powder and salt together, 
add the melted butter, the eggs, well beaten, and the milk; mix into a very 
smooth batter, a httle thicker than for griddle-cakes. 



344 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS, 

ALMOND PUDDING. 

Turn boiling water on to three-fourths of a pound of sweet almonds; let it 
remain until the skin comes off easily; rub with a dry cloth; when dry, pound 
fine with one large spoonful of rose-water; beat six eggs to a stiff froth with 
three spoonfuls of fine white sugar; mix with one quart of milk, three spoonfuls 
of poimded crackers, four ounces of melted butter, and the same of citron cut 
into bits; add almonds, stir aU together, and bake in a small pudding-dish with 
a lining and rim of pastry. This pudding is best when cold. It will bake in 
half an hour in a quick oven. 

APPLE PUDDING, BAKED. 

Stir two tablespoonfuls of butter and half a cupful of sugar to a cream; stir 
into this the yolks of four eggs, well beaten, the juice and grated rind of one 
lemon, and half a dozen sound, green, tart apples, grated. Now stir in the four 
beaten whites of the eggs, season with cinnamon or nutmeg; bake. To be 
served cold with cream. 

BOILED APPLE PUDDING. 

Take three eggs, three apples, a quarter of a pound of bread-crumbs, one 
lemon, three ounces of sugar, three ounces of currants, half a wine-glassful of 
wine, nutmeg, butter and sugar for sauce. Pare, core and mince the apple and 
mix with the bread-cruinbs, nutmeg grated, sugar, cmrants, the juice of the 
lemon, and half the rind grated. Beat the eggs well, moisten the mixture with 
these and beat aU together, adding the wine last; put the pudding in a buttered 
mold, tie it down with a cloth; boil one hour and a half, and serve with sweet 
sauce. 

BIRDS' NEST PUDDING. 

Core and peel eight apples, put in a dish, fill tlio places from which the cores 
have been taken with sugar and a httle grated nutmeg; cover and bake. Beat 
the yolks of four eggs light, add two teacupfuls of flour witb three even tea- 
spoonfuls of baking-powder sifted with it, one pint of milk with a teaspoonful 
of salt; then add the whites of the eggs well beaten, pour over the apples, and 
bake one hour in a moderate overu Serve with sauce. 

BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. NO. i. 

Butter the sides and bottom of a deep pudding-dish, then butter thin slices of 
bread, sprinkle thickly with sugar, a httle cinnamon, chopped apple, or any fruit 
you. prefer between e-ach sUce^ until your dish is fulL Beat up two eggs, add a 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 345 

tablespoonful of sifted flour; stir with this three cupfols of milk and a little salt j 
pour this over the bread, let it stand one hour and then bake slowly, with a cover 
on, three-quarters of an hour; then take the cover off and brown. Serve with 
wine and lemon sauce. 

Pie plant, cut up in small pieces with plenty of sugar, is fine made in this 
manner. 

BREAD AND BUTTER PUDDING. Nq. 2. 

Place a layer of stale bread, rolled fine, in the bottom of a pudding dish, then 
a layer of any kind of fruit; sprinkle on a Mttle sugar, then another layer of 
bread-crumbs and of fruit; and so on until the dish is full, the top layer being 
crumbs. Make a custard as for pies, add a pint of milk, and mix. Pour it over 
the top of the pudding, and bake until the fruit is cooked. 

Stale cake, crumbed fine, in place of bread, is an improvement. 

COLD BERRY PUDDING. 

Take rather stale bread— baker's bread or Ught home-made— cut in thin slices, 
and spread with butter. Add a very Mttle water and a httle sugar to one quart 
or more of huckleberries and blackberries, or the former alone. Stew a few 
minutes until juicy; put a layer of buttered bread in your buttered pudding- 
dish, then a layer of stewed berries while hot, and so on until fuU; lastly, a cov. 
ering of stewed berries. It may be improved with a rather soft frosting over 
the top. To be eaten cold with thick cream and sugar. 

APPLE TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

Put one teacupful of tapioca and one teaspoonful of salt into one pint and a 
half of water, and let it stand several hours where it will be quite warm, but 
not cook; peel six tart apples, take out the cores, fill them vdth sugar, in which 
is grated a little nutmeg and lemon-peel, and put them in a pudding-dish; over 
these pour the tapioca, first mixing with it one teaspoonful of melted butter and 
a cupful of cold milk, and half a cupful of sugar; bake one hour; eat with sauce. 

When fresh fruits are in season, this pudding is exceedingly nice, with dam- 
sons, plums, red currants, gooseberries, or apples; when made with these, the 
pudding must be thickly sprinkled over with sifted sugar. 

Canned or fresh peaches may be used in place of apples in the same manner, 
moistening the tapioca with the juice of the canned peaches in place of the cold 
milk. Very nice when qinte cool to serve with sugar and cream. 



34^ DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

APPLE AND BROWN-BREAD PUDDING. 

Take a pint of brown bread-crumbs, a pint bowl of chopped apples, mix; add 
fcwo-thirds of a cupful of finely chopped suet, a cupful of raisins, one egg, a 
tablespoonful of flour, half a teaspoonf ul of salt. Mix with half a pint of milk, 
and boil in buttered molds about two hours. Serve with sauce flavored with 
lemon. 

APPLE-PUFF PUDDING. 

Put half a pound of flour into a basin, sprinkle in a little salt, stir in gradu- 
ally a pint of milk; when quite smooth add three eggs; butter a pie-dish, pour 
in the batter; take three-quarters of a poimd of apples, seed and cut in slices, 
and put in the batter; place bits of butter over the top; bake three-quarters of 
an hour; when done, sprinkle sugar over the top and serve hot. 

PLAIN BREAD PUDDING, BAKED. 

Break up about a pint of stale bread after cutting off the crust ; pour over it 
a quart of boiling milk; add to this a piece of butter the size of a small egg; 
cover the dish tight and let it stand until cool; then with a spoon mash it imtil 
line, adding a teaspoonf ul of cinnamon, and one of nutmeg grated, half a cupful 
of sugar, and one quarter of a teaspoonf ul of soda, dissolved in a little hot water. 
Beat up four eggs very light, and add last. Turn all into a well-buttered 
pudding-dish, and bake three-quarters of an hour. Serve it warm with hard 
eauce. 

This recipe may be steamed or boiled; very nice either way. 

SUPERIOR BREAD PUDDINGS. 

One and one-half cupfuls of wliite sugar; two cupfuls of fine, dry bread- 
crumbs, five eggs, one tablespoonful of butter, vauiUa, rose-water or lemon 
flavoring, one quart of fresh, rich milk, and half a cupful of jeUy or jam. Rub 
the butter into a cupful of sugar; beat the yollcs very light, and stir these 
together to a cream. The bread-crumbs soaked in milk come next, then the 
flavoring. Bake in a buttered pudding-dish — a large one, and but two-thirds 
full— until the custard is "set." Draw to the mouth of the oven, spread over 
with jam or other nice fruit conserve. Cover this with a meiingue made bf the 
whipped whites and half a cupful of sugar. Shut the oven, and bake \mtil the 
meringue begins to color. Eat cold, with cream. In strawberry season, substi- 
tute a pint of fresh fruit for preserves. It is then delicious. Serve with any 
warm sauce. 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 347 

BOILEt> BREAD PUDDIJ^G. 
To one quart of bread-crumbs, soaked soft in a cup of hot milk, add one cup- 
ful of molasses, one cupful of fruit, or chopped raisins, one teaspoonf ul each of 
spices, one tablespoonful of butter, a teaspoonf ul of salt, one teaspoonf ul of to&a^ 
about a cupful of flour sifted; boil or steam three hours. Serve with sweet sauce. 

ALMOND PUDDING No I. 

Put two quarts of milk into a double boiler: stu* into it two heaping table, 
spoonfuls of sifted flom' that has been stirred to a cream, jvith a little of the milk. 
When it boils, care should be taken that it does not bum; when cooked, take 
from the fii-e, and let it cool. Take the skins off from two pounds of sweet 
almonds, pound them fine, stir them into the milk; add a teaspoonf ul of salt, a 
cupful of sugar, flavoring, and six well-beaten eggs, the yolks and whites beaten 
separately. Put bits of butter over the top. Bake one hour. A giU of brandy 
or wine imnroves it. 

ALMOND PUDDING. No. 2. 

Steep fom* ounces of crumbs of bread, shced, in one and one-half pints of 
cream, or grate the bread; then beat half a pound of blanched almonds very 
fine till they become a paste, with two teaspoonfuls of orange-flower water; 
beat up the yolks of eight eggs and the whites of fom-; mix all well together; 
put in a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar, and stir in three or four ounces of 
melted butter; put it over the fire, stirring it mitil it is thick: lay ai sheet of paper 
at the bottom of a dish, and poiu* in the ingredients; bake half an hour. Use 
the remaining foiu* whites of egg for a meringue for the top. 

BATTER PUDDING, BAKED. 

Four eggs, the yolks and whites beaten separately, one pint of milk, one tea- 
spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful of baking-powder, two cupfuls of sifted flour. 
Put the whites of the eggs in last. Bake in an earthen dish that can be set on 
the table. Bake forty -five minutes; serve with rich sauce. 

BOILED BATTER PUDDING^ 

Sift together a pint of flour and a teaspoonful of baking-powder into a deep 

dish, sprinkle in a Httle salt, adding also a tablespoonf \il of melted butter. Stir 

into this gradually a pint of milk; when quite smooth, add four eggs, yolks and 

whites beaten separately. Now add enough more flour to make a very stiff 

batter. If liked, any kind of fruit may be stirred into this; a pint of berries or 
23 



34S DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

sliced fruit. Boil two hours. Serve with cream and sugar, wine sauce, or any 
sweet sauce, 

CUSTARD PUDDING. No. i. 

Take five tablespoonfuls out of a quart of cream qr rich milk, and mix them 
with two large spoonfuls of fine flour. Set the rest of the milk to boil, flavoring 
it with bitter almonds broken up. When it has boiled hard, take it off, strain 
it, and stir it in the cold milk and flour. Set it away to cool, and beat well 
eight yolks and four whites of eggs; add them to the milk, and stir in, at the 
last, a glass of brandy or white wine, a teaspoonfvil of powdered nutmeg, and 
half a cupful of sugar. Butter a large bowl or mold; pour in the mixture; tie a 
cloth tightly over it; put it into a pot of boiling water, and boil it two hours, re- 
plenishing the pot with hot water from a tea-kettle. When the pudding is done, 
let it get cool before you turn it out. Eat it with butter and sugar stirred together 
to a cream and flavored with lemon-juice or orange. 

CUSTARD PUDDING. No. 2. 

Pour one quart of milk in a deep pan, and let tne pan stand in a kettle of 
boihng water, while you beat to a cream eight eggs and six -tablespoonfuls of 
fine sugar and a teaspoon of flour; then stir the eggs and sugar into the milk, 
and continue stimng until it begins to thicken; then remove the pan fronx the 
boning water, scrape down the sides, stir to the bottom until it begins to cool, 
add a tablespoonful of peach water, or any other flavor you may prefer, pour 
into httle cups, and when cold, sei've. 

CUSTARD PUDDINGS. 

The recipe for "Common Custard," with the addition of chocolate, grated 
banana, or pineapple or cocoanut, makes successfully those different kinds of 
puddings 

APPLE CUSTARD PUDDINGS. 

Put a quart of pared and quartered apples into a stew-pan, with half a cupful 
of water, and cook them until they are soft. Remove from the fire, and add 
half a cupful of sugar, two tablespoonfuls of butter and the grated rind and the 
juice of a lemon. Have ready mixed two cupfuls of grated bread-crumbs, and 
two tablespoonfuls of flour; add this also to the apple mixture, after which, stir 
in two "weU-beaten eggs. Turn 'all into a weU-buttered pudding-dish, and bake 
forty-five^minutes in a moderate oven. Serve with sugar and cream or hard 
' sweet sauce. 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 349 

CREAM PUDDING. 

Beat the yolks and whites of six eggs well, and stir them into one pint of 
flour, one pint of millc, a little salt, and a bit of soda, dissolved in a little water, 
the grated rind of a lemon, and three spoonfuls of sugar; just before baking, 
stir in one pint of cream, and bake in a buttered dish. Eat with cream. 

CREAM MERINGUE PUDDING. 
Stir to a cream half a cupful of sugar with the white of one qz% and the yolks 
of four. Add one quart of milk and mix thoroughly. Put four tablespoonf uls 
of flour and a teaspoonful of salt into another dish, and pour half a cupful of the 
milk and egg mixture upon them, and beat very smooth, gradually adding 
the rest of the milk and q^% mixture. Turn this aU into a double boiler sur- 
rounded by boihng water; stir this until smooth and thick like cream, or about 
fifteen minutes; then add yaniUa or other extract. Eub all through a strainer 
into a well-buttered pudding-dish. Now beat the remaining three whites of 
eggs to a stiff froth, and gradually add three tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar, 
and spread roughly over the pudding. Cook for twenty .minutes in a moderate 
oven. Serve cold. 

CORN-STARCH PUDDING. 

Eeserve half a cupful of milk from a quart, and put the remainder on the 
stove in a double boiler. Mix four large tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, and a 
teaspoonful of salt, with the half -cupful of milk; then stir the mixture into the 
boiling milk, and beat well for two minutes. Cover the boiler and cook the 
pudding for twelve minutes; then pour it into a pudding-dish_. and set in a cool 
place for half an hour. When the time for serving comes, make a sauce in this 
manner: Beat the whites of two eggs to a stiff, dry froth, and beat into this two 
tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar. As soon as the sugar has been weU mixed 
with the whites, add half of a large tumbler of currant jelly, or any other bright 
jelly, or any kind of preserved fruit may be used. K you prefer, serve sugar 
and cream with the pudding instead of a sauce. 

COLD: FRUIT PUDDING. 

Throw into a pint of new millj: the thin rind of a lemon, heat it slowly by the 
Bide of the fire, and keep at the boiling point until strongly flavored. Sprinkle 
in a small ninch of salt, and three-quarters of an ounce of the finest ismglass or 
gelatine. When dissolved, strain througfi muslin into a clean sauce-pau . with 
five ounces of powdered sugar and half a pint of rich cream. Give the whole 



350 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

one bofl, stir it briskly and add by degrees the well-beaten yolks of five feggs. 
Next thicken the mixture as a custard over a slow fire, taking care not to keep 
it over the fire a moment longer than necessary; pour it into a basin and flavor 
^vith orange-flower water or vanilla. Stir until nearly cold, then add two ounces 
of citron cut in thin strips and two ounces of candied cherries. Pour into a 
buttered mold. For sauce use any kind of fruit syrup. 

CUBAN PUDDING. 

Crumble a pound of sponge cakes, an equal quantity, or less if preferred, of 
oocoanut, grated in a basin. Pour over two pints of rich cream previously 
sweetened with a quarter of a pound of loaf sugar and brought to the boiling 
point. Cover the basin, and when the cream is soaked up stir in it eight well- 
beaten eggs. Butter a mold, arrange four or five ounces of preserved ginger 
around it, pour in the pudding carefully, and tie it down with a cloth. Steam 
or bon slowly for an hour and a half; serve with the syrup from the ginger, 
which should be wanned and poured over the pudding. 

CRACKER PUDDING 

Of raspberries, may be made of one large teacupful of cracker-crumbs, one 
quart of milk, one spoonful of flour, a pinch of salt, the yolks of three eggs, one 
whole egg and half a cupful of sugar. Flavor with vanilla, adding a little pinch 
of salt. Bake in a moderate oven. When done, spread over the top, while hot, 
a pint of well-sugared raspberries. Then beat the whites of the three eggs very 
stiff, with two tablespoonfuls of sugar, a little lemon extract, or whatever on& 
prefers. Spread this over the berries, and bake a light brown. Serve with 
fruit sauce made of raspberries. 

BAKED CORN-MEAL PUDDING. WITHOUT EGGS. 

Take a large cupful of yellow meal, and a teacupful of cooking molasses, and 
beat them well together; then add to them a quart of boiling milk, some salt 
and a large tablespoonful of powdered ginger, add a cupful of finely chopped 
Buet or a piece of butter the size of an egg. Butter a brown earthen pan, and 
turn the pudding in, let it stand imtil it thickens; then as you put it Into the 
oven, turn over it a pint of cold milk, but do not stir it, as this makes the jelly. 
Bake three hours. Serve warm with hard sauce. 

This recipe has been handed down from mother to daughter for many yeacs 
t>ack in a New England family. 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 35 1 

BAKED CORN-MEAL PUDDING, WITH EGGS 

One small cupful of Indian meal, one-half cupful of wheat flour stirred together 
with cold milk. Scald one pint of milk, and stir the mixture in it and cook until 
thick; then thin with cold milk to the consistency of batter, not very thick; add 
half a cupful of sugar^ half a cupful of molasses, two eggs, two tablespoonf uls 
of butter, a little salt, a tablespoonful of mixed cinnamon and nutmeg, two- 
thirds of a teaspoonful of soda added just before putting it into the oven. Bake 
two hours. After baking it half an hour, stir it up thoroughly, then finish 
baking. 

Serve it up hot. eat it with wine sauce, or with butter ana syrup. 

BOILED CORN-MEAL PUDDING. 
Warm a pint of molasses and a pint of milk, stir well together; beat four eggs, 
and stir gradually into molasses and milk; add a cupful of beef suet chopped 
fine, or half a cupful of butter, and corn-meal sufficient to make a thick batter; 
add a teaspoonful of pulverized cinnamon, the same of nutmeg, zi teaspoonful 
of soda, one of salt, and stir all together thoroughly; dip a cloth into boiling 
water, shake, flour a little, turn in the mixture, tie up, leaving room for the 
pudding to swell, and boil three hours; serve hot with sauce made. of draMm 
butter,, wine and nutmeg. 

BOILED CORN-MEAL PUDDING, WITHOUT EGGS. 

To one quart of boiling milk, stir in a pint and a half of Indian meal, welli-. 
sifted, a teaspoonful of salt, a cupful of molasses, half a cupful of chopped suet, 
and a teaspoonful of dissolved soda; tie it up tight in a cloth,.allowing room for 
it to swell, and boil four hours. Serve with sweet sauce. 

CORN-MEAL PUFFS 

Into one quart of boiling milk stir eight tablespoonf uls of Indian meal, foup 
tablespoonf uls of powdered sugar, and a teaspoonful of nutmeg; let thewhol© 
boil five minutes, stirring constantly to prevent its adhering to the sauce-pan; 
then remove it from the fire, and when it has become cool stii* into it six eggs, 
beaten as light as possible; mix well, and pour the mixttire into buttered teacups, 
nearly filling them; bake in a moderate oven half an hour; serve with lemon 
sauce. 

DELICATE INDIAN PUDDING. 

One quart milk, two heaping tablespoonfuls of Indian meal, four of sugar, 
one of butter, three ^gs, one teaspoonful of salt. Boil milk in douUe boiler* 



352 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

sprinkle the meal into it, stirring all the while; cook twelve minutes, stirring 
often. Beat together the eggs, salt, sugar and one-half teaspoonf ul of ginger. 
Stir the butter into the meal and milk. Pour tliis gradually over the egg mix- 
tui'e. Bake slowly one hour. Serve with sauce of heated syi-up and butter. 

— Maria Parloa. 
COTTAGE PUDDING. 
One heaping pint of flour, half a cupful of sugar, one cupful of milk, one tea- 
spoonful of soda dissolved in the milk, one tablespoonful of butter, two teaspoon- 
fuls of cream of tartar rubbed dry in the flour; flavor with nutmeg; bake in a 
moderate oven; cut in slices and serve warm with wine or brandy sauce, or 
sweet sugar sauce. 

FRENCH COCOANUT PUDDING. No. i. 

One quart of milk, three tablespoonf uls of corn-starch, the yolks of four eggs, 
half a cupful of sugar and a little salt; put part of the milk, salt and sugar on 
the stove and let it boil; dissolve the corn-starch in the rest of the milk; stir into 
the milk, and while boiling add the yolks and a cupful of grated chocolate. 
Flavor with vanilla. 

Frosting. — The whites of four eggs beaten to a stiff froth, half a cupful of 
sugar; flavor with lemon; spread it on the pudding, and put it into the oven to 
brown, saving a little of the frosting ""to moisten the top; then put on grated 
cocoanut to give it the appearance of snow-flake. 

COCOAHUT PUDDING. No. 2. 

Half a pound of grated cocoanut. Then mix with it half a cupful of stale 
sponge-cake, crumbled fine. Stir together imtil very hght half a cupful of butter 
and one of sugar, add a cq^ee-cupful of rich milk or cream. Beat six eggs very 
light, and stir them gradually into the butter and sugar in turn, with the grated 
cocoanut. Having stirred the whole very hard, add two teaspoonfuls of vaiiiUa; 
stir again, put into a buttered dish and bake until set, or about three-quarters of 
an horn". Three of the whites of the eggs could be left out for a meringue on 
the top of the pudding. Most excellent. 

COCOANUT PUDDING. No. 3. 
A cup of grated cocoanut put into the recipes of "Cracker Pudding" and 
" Bread Pudding," makes good cocoanut pudding, 

CHERRY PUDDING, BOILED OR STEAMED. 
Two e^s, well-beaten, one cupful of sweet milk, sifted flom- enough to make 
a stiff batter, two large teaspoonfuls of baking-powder, a pinch of salt, and && 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 353 

many cherries as can be stirred in. Boil one hour, or steam, and serve with 
liquid sauce. 

Cranberries, currants, peaches, cherries, or any tart fruit is nice used with 
this recipe. Serve with sweet sauce. 

CHERRY PUDDING. No. 2. 
Make a crust or paste of two cupfuls of floui*, two teaspoonfuls of. baking- 
powder, a teaspoonful of salt; wet up with milk or water; roll out a quarter of 
an inch thick, butter a large common bowl and line it with this paste, leaving it 
large enough to lap over the top; fiU it wdth stoned cherries and half a cupful of 
sugar. Gather the paste closely over the top, sprinkle a httle with dry flour, 
and cover the whole with a linen cloth, fastenmg it with a string. Put it into a 
pot of boiling water, and cook for an hour and a half. Serve with sweet sauce. 

ENGLISH PLUM PUDDING. (The Genuine.) 
Soak one pound of stale bread in a pint of hot milk, and let it stand and cool. 
When cold, add to it one-half pound of sugar and the yolks of eight eggs beaten 
to a cream, one pound of raisins, stoned and floured, one pound of Zante cur- 
rants, washed and floured, a quarter of a pound of citron, cut in slips and dredged 
%vith flom", one pound of beef suet, chopped finely, and salted, oue glass of wine, 
one glass of brandy^ one nutmeg, and a tablespoonful of mace, cinnamon and 
cloves mixed; beat the whole weU together, and, as the last thing, add the 
whites of the eight eggs, beaten to a stiff froth; pour into a cloth, previously 
scalded and dredged with flour, tie the cloth firmly, leaving room for the pud- 
ding to swell, and boil six hours. Serve with mne or brandy sauce. 
It is best to prepare the ingredients the day before, and cover closely. 

CHRISTMAS PLUM-PUDDING. (By Measure.) 
One cupful of finely chopped beef suet, two cupfuls of finfe bread-crumbs, one 
heaping cupful of sugar, one cupful of seeded raisins, one cupful of well- washed 
currants, one cupful of chopped blanched almonds, half a cupful of citron, sliced 
thin, a teaspoonful of salt, one of cloves, two of cinnamon, haK a grated nut 
meg, and four well-beaten eggs. Dissolve a level teaspoonful of soda in a table- 
spoonful of warm water. Flour the fruit thoroughly from a pint of flour; then 
mix the remainder as follows: In a large bowl put the well-beaten eggs, sugar, 
epices, and salt in one cupful of milk. Stir in the fruit, chopped nuts, bread- 
crumbs, and suet, one after the other, imtil all are used, putting in the dissolved 
Boda last, and adding enough flour to make the fruit stick together, which will 
take all the pint. Boil or steam four hours. Serve with wine or brandy or any 
well -flavored sauce. 



354 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS, 

BAKED PLUM-PUDDING. 

It will be found best to prepare the ingredients the day before and cover 
closely. Gratt^ a stale loaf of bread, or enough for a pint of crumbs; boil one 
quart of milk, and turn boiling hot over the grated bread; cover and let stfeep 
an hour; in the meantime pick, soak and dry half a pound of currants, half a 
pound of raisins, a qiiarter of a pound of citron cut in large shps, one nutmeg, one 
tablespoonful of mace and cmnamon, mixed, one cupful of sugar, with half of a 
cupful of butter; when the bread is ready, mix with it the butter, sugar, spice 
and citron, adding a glassful of white wine; beat eight eggs very hght, and 
when the mixture is quite cold, stir them gradually in; then add by degrees the 
raisins and currants dredged with flour; stir the whole very hard; put it into 
a buttered dish: bake two hours, send to the table warm. Eat with wine sauce, 
or wine and sugar. Most excellent. 

PLtJM-PUDDING, WITHOUT EGGS. 

This delicious, light pudding is made by stirring thoroughly together the 
following ingredients: One cupful of finely chopped beef suet, two cupfuls of 
fine bread-crumbs, one cupful of molasses, one of chopped raisins, one of well- 
washed currants^ one spoonful of salt, one teaspoonful each of cloves, cinnamon, 
allspice, and carbonate of soda, one cupful of milk, and flour enough to make a 
stiff batter. Put into a weU-greased pudding mold, or a three-quart pail, and 
cover closely. Set this pail into a larger kettle, close covered, and half full of 
boiling water^ adding boiling water as it^ boils away. Steam not less than four 
hours. This pudding js sure to be a success, and is quite rich for one containing 
neither eggs nor butter. One-half of the above amount is more than eight 
persons would be able to eat, but it is equally good some days later, steamed 
again for an hour, if kept closely covered meantime. Serve with wine sauce or 
common sweet sauce. 

CABINET PUDDING. 

Butter well the inside of a pudding-mold. Have ready a cupful of chopped 

citroD> raisins and currants. Sprinkle some of this fruit on the bottom of the 

mold, then slices of stale sponge cake; shake over this some spices, cinnamon, 

cloves and nutmeg, then fruit again and cake, imtil the mold is nearly full. 

Make a custard of a quart of milk» four eggs, a pinch of salt, two tablespoonfuls 

of melted butter; pour this over the cake, without cooking it; let it stand and 

soak one hour; then steam one hour and a half. Serve with wine sauce or a 

custard. Seasoned with wine. 

— Manhattan Beach Hotel 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 3S5 

BAKED CRANBERRY PUDDING. 

Pour boiling water on a pint of bread-crumbs; melt a tablespoonful of butter 
and stir in. When the bread is softened, add two eggs and beat thoroughly with 
the bread. Then put in a pint of the stewed fruit and sweeten to your taste. 
Fresh fruit of many kinds can be used instead of cranberries. Slices of peaches 
put in layers are delicious. Serve with sweet sugar sauce. 

ORANGE PUDDING. No. i. 

One pint of milk; the juice of six oranges and the rind of three, eight eggs; 

half a cupful of butter, half a cupful of granulated sugar, one tablespoonful 

of ground rice, paste to line the pudding-dish. Mix the ground rice with a little 

of the cold milk. Put the remainder of the milk in the double boiler, and when 

it boils stir in the mixed rice. Stir for five minutes; then add the butter, and 

set away to cool. Beat together the sugar, the yolks of eight eggs, and whites 

of four. Grate the rind and squeeze the juice of the oranges into tliis. Stir aU 

into the cooked mixture. Have a pudding-dish holding about three quarts Uned 

with paste. Pour the preparation into this, and bake in a moderate oven for 

forty minutes. Beat the remaining four whites of the eggs to a stiff froth, and 

gradually beat m the powdered sugar. Cover the pudding with this. Return 

to the oven and cook ten minutes, leaving the door open. Set away to cool. It 

must be ice cold when served. 

—Maria Parloa, 

ORANGE PUDDING. No. 2. 

Five sweet oranges, one coffee-cupful of white sugar, one pint of milk, the 
yolks of three eggs, one tablespoonful of corn-starch. Peel and cut the oranges 
into thin slice's, taking out the seeds; pour over them the sugar and let them 
stand whUe you make the rest. Now set the milk in a suitable dish into another 
of boiling water, let the milk get boiling hot, add a piece of butter as large as a 
nutmeg, the corn-starch made smooth with a little cold milk, and the well- 
beaten yolks of the eggs, and a little flavoring. Stir it all well together until it 
is smooth and cooked. Set it off and pour it over the oranges. Beat the whites 
to a stiff froth, adding two tablespoonfuls of sugar, spread over th3 top for frost- 
ing. Set into the oven a few minutes to brown. Eat cold. Berries, peaches 
and other fruits may be substituted. 

BAKED LEMON PUDDING. (Queen of Puddings.) 
Ingredients. — ^Qne quart of. milk,,.tw:o cupfuls of bread-crumbs, four eggs, 
whites and yolks beaten separately, butter the size of ^ an egg, one cupful of 



35^ DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

white sugar, one large lemon —juice and giated rind. Heat the milk and poui 
over the bread crumbs, add the buttei*, cover and let it get soft. When cool, 
beat the sugar and 3'^olks, and add to the mixture, also the grated rind. Bake 
in a buttered dish until firm and slightly brown, fj-om a half to three-quarters of 
an hour. When done, draw it to the door of the oven, and cover with a 
meringue made of the whites of the eggs, whipped to a froth with four table- 
spoonfuls of powdered sugar, and the lemon-juice; put it back in the oven and 
brown a light straw color. Eat warm, with lemon sauce. 

LEMON PUDDING. 
A small cupful of butter, the grated peel of two large lemons, and the juice 
of one; the yolks of ten eggs and whites of five; a cupful and a half of white sugar. 
Beat all together, and, lining a deep pudding-dish with puff paste, bake the 
lemon pudding in it; while baking, beat the whites of the remaining five eggs 
to a stiff froth, whip in fine white sugar to taste, cover the top of the pudding 
(when baked) with the meringue, and retm^n to the oven for a moment to 
brown; eat cold, it requires no sauce. 

BOILED LEMON PUDDING. 
Half a cupful of chopped suet, one pint of bread-crumbs, one lemon, one cup- 
ful of sugar, one of flour, a teaspoonful of salt and two eggs, milk. First mix 
the suet, bread-crumbs, sugar and flour well together, adding the lemon-peel, 
which should be the yellow grated from tlie outside, and the juice, which should 
be strained. When these ingredients are well mixed, moisten with the eggs 
and sufficient milk to make the pudding of the consistency of thick batter; put 
it into a well-buttered mold, and boil for three and a half hours; turn it out, 
strew sifted sugar over and serve warm with lemon sauce, or not, at pleasure. 

LEMON PUDDING, COLD. 

One cupful of sugar, four eggs, the whites and yolks beaten separately, two 
tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, one pint of milk, one tablespoonful of butter and 
the juice and rind of two lemons. Wet the corn-starch in some of the milk, 
then stir it into the remainder of the milk, which should be boiling on the stove, 
stining constantly and briskly for five minutes. Take it from the stove, stir in 
the butter and let it cool. Beat the yolks and sugar together, then stir them 
thoroughly into the milk and corn-§tarch Now stir in the lemon-juice and 
grated rind, doing it veiy gradually, making it very smooth. Bake in a weU 
buttered dish To be eaten cold Oi'anges may be used in place of lemons. 
This also may be turned while hot into several small cups or forms piwiously 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDJNGS. 357 

dipped in cold water, place them aside; in one hour they will befit to turn out. 
Serve with cream and sugar. Should be boiled all together not baked. 

ROYAL SAGO PUDDING. 

Three-quartei-s of a cupful of sago, washed and put into one quart of milk; 
put it into a sauce pan, let it stand in boiling water on the stove or range until 
the sago has well-swelled. While hot, put in two tablespoonfuls of butter 
with one cupful of white sugar, and flavoring. When cool, add the well-beaten 
yolks of four eggs, put in a buttered pudding-dish, and bake from half to three- 
quarters of an hour; then remove it from the oven and place it to cool. Beat 
the whites of the eggs with three tablespoonfuls of powdered white sugar, till 
they are a mass of froth ; spread the pudding with either raspberry or strawberry 
jam, and then spread on the frosting; put in the oven for two minutes to slightly 
brown. If made in summer, be sure and keep the whites of the eggs on ice 
until ready for use, and beat them in the coolest place you can find, as it will 
make a much richer frosting. 

The smaU white sago called pearl is the best. The large brown kind has an 
earthy taste. It should always be kept in a covered jar or box. 

This pudding, made with tapioca, is equally as good. Serve with any sweet 
sauce. 

SAGO APPLE PUDDING. 

One cupful of sago in a quart of tepid water, with a pinch of salt, soaked for 
one hour; six or eight apples, pared and cored, or quartered, and steamed tender, 
and put in the pudding dish; boil and stir the sago until clear, adding water to 
make it thin, and pour it over the apples; bake one hour. This is good hot, with 
butter and sugar, or cold with cream and sue:ar. 

PLAIN SAGO PUDDING. 
Make the same as ** Tapioca Pudding," substituting sago for tapioca, 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. No. i. 

Make a coni-starch pudding with a quart of milk, three tablespoonfuls of 
corn- starch, and three tablespoonfuls of sugar. When done, remove about half 
and flavor to taste, and then to that remaining in the kettle add an egg beaten 
very Ught, and four tablespoonfuls of vanilla chocolate, grated and dissolved in 
a little milk. Put in a mold, alternating the dark and hght. Serve with 
whipped cream or boiled custard. This is more of a blanc-mange than a pudding. 



35^ DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. No. 2. 

One quart of sweet milk, three-quarters of a cupful of grated chocolate; scald 
the milk and chocolate together; when cool, add the yolks of five eggs, one cup- 
ful of sugar; flavor with vanilla. Bake about twenty-five minutes. Beat the five 
Vv'hites of eggs to a stiff froth, adding four tablespoonfuls of fine sugar, spread 
evenly over the top and brown slightly in the oven. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. No 3. 

One quart of milk, fourteen even tablespoonfuls ot grated bread-crumbs, 
twelve tablespoonfuls grated chocolate, six eggs, one tablespoonful vanilla, sugar 
to make very sweet. Se arate the yolks and w^hites of four eggs, beat up the 
four yolks and two whole eggs together very light with the sugar. Put the 
milk on the range, and when it comes to a perfect boil pour it over the bread 
and chocolate; add the beaten eggs and sugar and vanilla; be sure it is sweet 
enough; pour into a buttered dish; bake one hour in a moderate oven. When 
cold, and just before it is served, have the four whites beaten with a little pow- 
dered sugar, and flavor with vanilla, and use as a meringue. 

CHOCOLATE PUDDING. No. 4- 

Half a cake of chocolate broken in one quart of milk and put on the range 
untU it reaches boiling point; remove the mixture from the range; add four tea- 
spoonfuls of corn-starch mixed vdth the yolks of three eggs and one cup and a 
half of sugar; stir constantly until thick; remove from the fire and flavor vdth 
vanilla; pour the mixture in a dish; beat the whites of the three eggs to a stiff 
froth, and add a Uttle sugar; cover the top of the pudding with a meringue, and 
set in the oven until a Ugbt brown. Serve cold. 

TAPIOCA PUDDING. 

Five tablespoonfuls of tapioca, one quart of milk, two ounces of butter, a 
cupful of sugar, four eggs, flavoring of vanilla or bitter almonds. Wash the 
tapioca, and let it stew gently in the milk on the back part of the stove for a 
quarter of an hour, occasionally stirring it; then let it cool; mix with it the 
butter, sugar and eggs, which should be well beaten, and flavor with either of 
the above ingredients. Butter a dish, put in the pudding, and bake in a moderate 
oven for an hour. If the pudding is boiled, add a little more tapioca, and boil it 
in a buttered basin one and a half hours. 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 359 

STRAWBERRY TAPIOCA 

This makes a most delightful dessert. Soak over night a large teacupful of 
tapioca in cold water; in the morning, put half of it in a buttered yellow-ware 
baking-dish, or ayy suitable pudding-dish. Sprinkle sugar over the tapioca; 
then on this put a quart of berries, sugar, and the rest of the tapioca. Fill the 
dish with water, which should cover the tapioca about a quarter of an inch. 
Bake in a moderately hot oven until it looks clear. Eat cold, with cream or 
custard. If not sweet enough, add more sugar at table; and in baking, if it 
seems too dry, more water is needed. 

A similar dish may be made, using peaches, either fresh or canned. 

RASPBERRY PUDDING. 
One-quarter cupful of butter, one-half cupful of sugar, two cupfuls of jam, 
six cupfuls of soft bread-crumbs, four eggs. Eub the butter and sugar 
together; beat the eggs, yolks and whites separately; mash the raspberries, 
add the whites beaten to a stiff froth; stir all together to a smooth paste; 
butter a pudding -dish, cover the bottom with a layer of the crumbs, then a 
layer of the mixture; continue the alternate layers until the dish is full, making 
the last layer of crumbs; bake one hour in a moderate oven. Serve in the 
dish in which it is baked, and serve with fruit sauce made with raspberries. This 
pudding may be made the same with other kinds of berries. 

PEAR, PEACH AND APPLE PUDDING. 

Pare some nice, ripe pears (to weigh about three-fourths of a pound); put 
them in a sauce-pan wdth a few cloves, some lemon or orange peel, and stew 
about a quarter of an hour in two cupfuls of water; put them in your pudding- 
dish, and having made the following custard, one pint of cream, or milk, four 
eggs, sugar to taste, a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of flour; beat eggs and 
sugar well, add the flour, grate some nutmeg, add the cream by degrees, stirring 
all the time, — pour this over the pears, and bake in a quick <JVen. Apples or 
peaches may be substituted. 

Serve cold with sweetened cream. 

FIG PUDDINGS. 
Half a pound of good, dried figs, washed, wiped and minced; two cupfuls of 
fine, dry bread-crumbs, three eggs, half a cupful of beef suet, powdered, two 
scant cupfuls of sweet milk, half a cupful of white sugar, ajittle. salt, .half a tea- 
spoonful of- baking-powdOT, stirred in half a cupful, of sifted, flour. Soak the 



360 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

crumbs in milk, add the eggs, beaten light, with sugar, salt, suet, flour and figs. 
Beat three minutes, put in buttered molds with tight top, set in boiling water 
with weight on cover to prevent mold from upsetting, and boil three horn's. Eat 
hot with hard sauce. or butter, powdered sugar, one teaspoonful of extract of 
nutmeg. 

FRUIT PUDDING, CORN-MEAL. 
Take a pint of hot milk, and stir in sifted Indian pieal till the batter is stiflf ; 
add a teaspoonful of salt and half of a cup of molasses, adding a teaspoonful ot 
soda dissolved; then stu* in a pint of whortleberries or chopped sweet apple; tie 
in a cloth that has been wet, and leave room for it to sweU, or put it in a 
pudding- pan, and tie a cloth over; boil three hours; the water must boil when 
it is put in; you can use cranberries and sweet sauce. 

APPLE CORN-MEAL PUDDING. 
Pare and core twelve pippen apples; slice them very thin; then stir into one 
quart of new milk one quart of sifted corn-meal; add a Uttle salt, then the 
apples, four spoonfuls of chopped suet and a teacupful of good molasses, adding 
a teaspoonful of soda dissolved; mix these well together; pour into a buttered 
dish, and bake fom- hoiu-s; serve hot, with sugar and wine sauce. This is the 
most simple, cheap and luxuriant fruit pudding that can be made. 

RHUBARB, OR PIE-PLANT PUDDING. 

Chop rhubarb pretty fine, put in a pudding-dish, and sprinkle sugar over it; 
make a batter of one cupful of sour milk, two eggs, a piece of butter the size of 
an egg, half a teaspoonful of soda, and enough flour to make batter about as 
thick as for cake. Spread it over the rhubarb, and balce till done. Turn out 
on a platter upside down, so that the rhubarb will be on top. Serve with sugar 
and cream. 

FRUIT PUDDINGS. 

Fi-uit puddings, such as green gooseberry, are very nice made m a basin, the 
basin to be buttered and hned with a paste, rolling it round to the thickness of 
half an inch; then get a pint of gooseberries and three ounces of sugar; after 
having made your paste, take half the finiit, and lay it at the bottom of your 
basin; then add half your sugar, then put the remainder of the gooseberries in, 
and the remainder of the sugar; on that, draw your paste to the centre, join the 
edges well together, put the cloth over the whole, tying it at the bottom, and boil 
in plenty of water. Fruit puddings of this kind, such as apples and rhubarb. 
slinuld be done in this manner. 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 361 

Boil for an hour, take out of the sauce-pan, untie the cloth,- turn out on a 
dish, or let it remain in the basin, and serve with sugar over. A thin cover ol 
the paste may be rolled roimd and put over the pudding. 

Ripe cherries, currants, raspberries, greengages, plums and such like fruit, 
will not require so much sugar, or so long boiling. These puddings are also very 
good steamed, 

SNOW PUDDING. 

One half a package of Cox's gelatine; pour over it a cupful of cold water, and 
add 6ne and a half cupfuls of sugar; when soft, add one cupful of boiling water 
and the juice of one lemon; then the v/hites of four well-beaten eggs; beat all 
together until it is hght and frothy, or until the gelatine will not settle clear in 
the bottom of the dish after standing a few mmutes; put it on a glass dish. 
Serve with a custard made of one pint of milk, the yolks of four eggs, four 
tablespoonfuls of sugar, and the grated rind of a lemon; boil. 

DELMONICO PUDDING. 

Three tablespoonfuls of corn-starch, the yolks of five eggs, six tablespoonfuls 
of sugar; beat the eggs hght; then add the sugar and beat again till very light; 
mix the com starch with a httle cold milk; mix all together and stir into one 
quart of milk just as it is about to boil, having added a little salt; stir it until it 
has thickened well; pom* it into a dish for the table and place it in the oven until 
it will bear icing; place over the top a layer of canned peaches or other fruit (and 
it improves it to mix the syrup of the fruit with the custard part); beat the 
whites to a stiff froth with two tablespoonfuls of white sugar to an Q^g,\ then 
put it into the oven until it is a hght brown. 

This is a very dehcate and dehcious padding. 

SAUCER PUDDINGS. 

Two tablespoonfuls of flour, two tablespoonfuls of powdered sugar, three 
eggs, a teacupful of milk, butter, preserve of any kind. Mix the flom* and sugar, 
beat the -eggs, add them to the milk, and beat up with the flour and sugar. 
Butter well three saucers, half fiU them, and bake in a quick oven about twenty 
minutes. Remove them from the saucers when cool enough, cut in half, and 
spread a thin layer of preserve between each half; close them again, and serve 
with cream. 

NANTUCKET PUDDING. 

One quai-t of berries or any small fruit; two tablespoonfuls of flour, two 
tablespoonfuls of sugar; simmer together and turn into molds; cover with frost- 



36fl DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

ing as for cake, or with whipped eggs and sugar, browning lightly in the oven; 
serve with cream. 

TOAST PUDDING, 

Toast several thin slices of stale bread, removing the crust, butter them weD, 
and pour over them hot stewed firuit in alternate layers. Serve warm vdth rich 
hot sauce. 

PLAIN RICE PUDDING. 

Pick over, wash and boil, a teacupful of rice; when soft, drain off the water; 
whDe warm, add to it a tablespoonful of cold butter. When cool, mix with it a 
cupful of sugar, a teaspoonful of grated nutmeg, and one of ground cinnamon. 
Beat up four eggs very light, whites and yolks separately; add them to the rice; 
then stir in a quart of sweet milk gradually. Butter a pudding dish, turn in 
the mixture, and bake one hour in a moderate oven. Serve warm, with sweet 
wine sauce. 

11 you have cold cooked rice, first soak it in the milk, and proceed as above. 

RICE PUDDING. (Fine.) 
\Vash a teacupful of rice, and boil it in two teacupfuls of water; then add, 
while the rice is hot, three tablespoonfuls of butter, five tablespoonfuls of sugar, 
five eggs well beaten, one tablespoonful of powdered nutmeg, a. httle salt, one 
glass of v\ine, a quarter of a pound of raisins, stoned and cut in halves, a quarter 
of a pound of Zante currants, a quarter of a pound of citron cut in slips, and one 
quart of cream; mix well, pour into a buttered dish and bake an hour in a mod- 
erate oven. 

—Astor House, New York City. 

RICE MERINGUE. 
One cupful of carefully soried rice, boiled in water until it is soft; when 
done, drain it so as to remove all the water; cool it, and add one quart of new 
milk, the weU beaten yolks of three eggs, three tablespoonfuls of white sugar, 
and a httle nutmeg, or flavor with lemon or vanilla; pour into a baking dish, 
and bake about half an hour. Let it get cold; beat the whites of the eggs, add 
two tablespoonfuls of sugar, flavor vciih lemon or vanilla; drop or spread it over 
the pudding, and slightly brown it in the oven 

RICE LEMON PUDDING. 

Put on to boil one quart of milk, and when it simmers stir in four table- 
6])Oonfuls of rice flour that has been moistened in a httle milk; let it come to a 
boil, and remove from the fire; add one-quarter of a pound of butter, and when 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 363 

cool, the grated peel, with the juice of two lemons, and the yolks and beaten 
whites of four eggs; sweeten to taste; one wine-glassful of wine, put in the last 
thing, is also an improvement. 

RICE PUDDING WITHOUT EGGS. 
Two quarts o£milk, two-thirds of a cupful of rice, a cupful of sugar, a piece 
<w batter as large as a walnut, a teaspoonful of cinnamon, a Uttle nutmeg and a 
pinch of salt. Put into a deep pudding-dish, well-buttered, set into a moderate 
oven; stir it once or twice until it begins to cook, let it remain in the oven about 
two hours (until it is the consistency of cream). Eat cold. 

FRUIT RICE PUDDING. 

One large teacupf ul of rice, a little water to cook it partially; dry, line an 
earthen basin with part of it; fill nearly fuU with pared, cored and quartered 
apples, or any fruit you choose; cover with the balance of your rice; tie a cloth 
tightly over the top, and steam one hour. To be eaten with sweet sauce. Do 
not butter your dish. 

BOILED RICE PUDDING. No. i. 

One cupful of cold, boiled rice, one cupful of sugar, four eggs, a pinch of 
soda, and a pinch of salt. Put it all in a bowl, and beat it up untU it is very 
light and white. Beat four ounces of butter to a cream, put it into the pudding, 
and ten drops of essence of lemon. Beat altogether for five minutes. Butter a 
mold, pour the pudding into it, and boil for two hours. Serve with sweet fruit 
sauce. 

BOILED RICE PUDDING. No. 2. 

Wash two teacupf uls of rice, and soak it in water for half an hour; then turn 
ofif the water, and mix the rice with half a pound of raisins stoned and cut in 
halves; add a little salt, tie the whole in a cloth, leaving room for the rice to 
swell to twice its natural size, and boil two hours in plenty of water; serve with 
wine sauce 

RICE SNOW-BALLS. 

'Wash two teacupfuls of rice, and boll it in one teacupful of water and one of 

milk, with a Uttle salt; if the rice is not tender when the milk and water are 

absorbed, add a Uttle more milk and water; when the rice is tender, flavor with 

vanilla, form it into baUs, or mold it into a compact form with Uttle cups^ place 

these rice balls around the inside of a deep dish, fiU the dish with a rich soft 

custard, and serve either hot or cold. The custard and baUs should be flavored 

with the same. 
24 



364 DUMPLINGS AND FUDDINGS. 

PRUNE PUDDING. 

Heat a little more than a pint of sweet milk to the boiling point, then stir in 
gradually a little cold milk in which you have rubbed smooth a heaping table- 
spoonful of comstarcii; add sugar to suit your taste; three well-beaten eggs, 
about a teaspoonful of butter, and a httle grated nutmeg. Let this dome to a 
boil, then poiu- it in a buttered pudding-dish, first adding a cupful of stewed 
prunes, with the stones taken out. Bake for from fifteen to twenty minutes, 
according to the state of the oven. . Serve with or without sauce. A little cream 
improves it if pom'ed over it when placed in saucers. 

BLACKBERRY OR WHORTLEBERRY PUDDING. 
Three cupfuls of flour, one cupful of molasses, half a cupful of milk, a tea- 
spoonful of salt, a little cloves and cinnamon, a teaspoonful of soda, dissolved in 
a little of the milk. Stir in a quart of huckleben-ies, floured. Boil in a well- 
buttered mold two hoiu-s. Serve with brandy sauce. 

BAKED HUCKLEBERRY PUDDING. 
One quart of ripe, fresh huckleberries or blueberries; half a teaspoonful of 
mace or nutmeg, three eggs weU beaten, separately; two cupfuls of sugar; one 
tablespoonful of cold butter; one cupful of sweet milk, one pint of flour, two 
teaspoonfuls of baking-powder. Roll the berries weU in the flour, and add them 
last of all. Bake half an hour and serve with sauce. There is no more dehcate 
and dehcious puddmg than this. 

FRUIT PUDDING. 

This pudding is made without cooking and is nice prepared the day before 
ased. 

Stew currants or any small fruits, either fresh or dried, sweeten with sugar 
to taste, and pour hot over thin slices of bread with the crust cut off, placed ia 
a suitable dish, first a layer of bread, then the hot stewed fruit, then bread and 
fruit, then bread, leaving the fruit last. Put a plate over the top and when 
cool, set it on ice. Serve with sugar and cream. 

This pudding is very fine made with Boston crackers spUt open, and placed 
in layers with stewed peaches. 

BOILED CURRANT PUDDING. 
Five cupfuls of sifted flojir in which two teaspoonfuls of baking-powder have 
been sifted. One-half a cupful of chopped suet; half a pound of currants, milk, 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 365 

a pinch of salt. Wash the currants, dry them thoroughly, and pick away any 
stalks or grit; chop the suet finely; mix all the ingredients together and moisten 
with suflScient milk to make the pudding into a stiff batter; tie it up in a floured 
cloth, put it into boiling water, and boil for three hours and a half. Serve with 
jelly sance made very sweet. 

TRANSPARENT PUDDING. 

A small cupful of fresh butter warmed, but not melted, one cupful of sifted 
sugar creamed with the butter, a teaspoonf ul of nutmeg, grated, eight eggs, yolks 
and whites beaten separately. Beat the butter and sugar light, and then add the 
nutmeg and the beaten eggs, which should be stirred in gradually; flavor with 
vanilla, almond, peach or rosewater; stir liard; butter a deep dish, Hnd with 
puff-paste, and bake half an hour. Then make a meringue for the top, and 
brown. Serve cold. 

SWEET-POTATO PUDDING. 

To a large sweet potato, weighing two pounds, allow half a pound of sugar, 
half a pound of butter, one giU of sweet cream, one gill of strong wine or brandy, 
one grated nutmeg, a little lemon peel, and four eggs. BoU the potato until 
thoroughly done, mash up fme, and while hot add the sugar and butter. Set 
aside to cool while you beat the eggs hght, and add the seasoning last. Line 
tin plates with puff-paste, and pour in the mixture. Bake in a moderate but 
regularly heated oven. When the puddings are drawn from the fire, cover the 
top with thinly sliced bits of preserved citron or quince marmalade. Strew the 
top thickly with granulated white sugar, and serve, with the addition of a glass 
of rich milk for each person at table. 

PINEAPPLE PUDDING. 
Butter a pudding-dish and line the bottom and sides with slices of stale cake 
(sponge cake is best); pare and slice thin a large pineapple; place in the dish fii'st 
a layer of pineapple, then strew with sugar, then more pineapple, and so on 
until all is used. Pour over a small teacupful of water, iand cover with slices of 
cake which have been dipped in cold water; cover the whole with a buttered 
plate, and bake slowly for two hours. 

ORANGE ROLEY POLEY. 

Make a hght dough the same as for apple dumphngs, roll it out into a narrow 
long sheet, about quainter of an mch thick. Spread thickly over it peeled and 
sliced oranges, sprinkle it plentifully with white sugar; scatter over all a tea- 
spoonful or two of grated orange-neel, theii roU it up. Fold the edges well 



366 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

together, to keep the juices from running out. Boil it in a floured cloth one hour 
and a half. Serve it with lemon sauce. Fine. 

ROLEY FOLEY PUDDING. (Apple.) 

Peel, core and slice sour apples; make a rich biscuit dough, or raised biscuit 
dough may be used if rolled thinner; roll not quite half an inch thick, lay the 
slices on the paste, roll up, tuck in the ends, prick deeply with a fork, lay it in a 
steamer, and steam hard for an hour and three-quarters. Or, wrap it in a pud- 
ding-cloth well floured ; tie the ends, baste up the sides, plunge into boihng 
water, and boil continually an hour and a half, perhaps more. Stoned cherries, 
dried fruits, or any kiad of berries, fresh or dried, may be used. 

FRUIT PUFF PUDDING. 
Into one pint of flom* stir two teaspoonf uls baking-powder and a little salt; 
then sift and stir the mixture into milk, until very soft. Place well-greased 
cups in a steamer, put in each a spoonful of the above batter, then add one of 
berries or steamed apples, cover with another spoonful of batter, and steam 
twenty minutes. This pudding is dehcious made with strawberries, and eaten 
with a sauce made of two eggs, half a cup butter, a cup of sugar beaten thor- 
oughly with a cup of boihng milk, and one cup of strawberries. 

SPONGE CAKE PUDDING. No. i. 
Bake a common sponge cake in a flat-bottomed pudding-dish; when ready to 
use, cut in six or eight pieces; split and spread with butter; and return them to 
the dish. Make a custard with four eggs to a quart of milk; flavoi and sweeten 
to taste; pom* over the cake, and bake one-half hour. The cake will swell and 
fill the custard. Serve \vith or without sauce. 

SPONGE CAKE PUDDING. No- 2 

Butter a pudding- mold: fiU the mold with small sponge cakes or sUces of 
stale plain cake, that have been soaked in a liquid made by dissolving one-haJf 
pint of jelly in a pint of hot water. This A^dll be of as fine a flavor and much 
better for all than if the cake had been soaked in wine. Make a sufficient quan- 
tity of custard to fill the mold, and leave as much more to be boiled in a dish by 
itself. Set the mold, after being tightly covered, into a kettle, and boil one 
hour. Turn out of the mold, and serve with some of the other custard poured 
over it. 

GRAHAM PUDDING. 

Mix well together one half a coffee-cupful of molasses, one-quarter of a cup- 
ful of butter, one egg, one-half a cupful of milk, one-half a teaspoonful of pur^ 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 367 

soda, one and one half cupfuls of good Graham flour, one small teacupful of 
raisins, spices to taste. Steam fom* hours, and serve with brandy or wine 
sauce, or any sauce that may be preferred. This makes a showy as well as a 
light and wholesome dessert, and has the merit of simplicity and cheapness. 

BANANA PUDDING. 

Cut sponge cake in slices, and, in a glass dish, put alternately a layer of -cake 
and a layer of bananas sliced. Make a soft custard, flavor with a little wine, 
and pour over it Beat the whites of the eggs to a stiff froth and heap over the 
whole. 

Peaches cut up, left a few hours in sugar and then scalded, and added when 
cold to thick boiled custard, made rather sweet, are a delicious dessert. 

DRIED PEACH PUDDING. 

Boil one pint of milk and while hot turn it over a pint of bread-crumbs. , Stir 
into it a tablespoonful of buttei', one pint of dried peaches stewed sof t. , When 
all is cool, add two well-beaten eggs, half of a cupful of sugar and a pinch^ of 
salt; flavor to taste. Put into a well-buttered pudding-dish and hake half an 
hour. 

SUET PUDDING, PLAIN. 

One cupful of chopped suet, one cupful of milk, two eggs beaten, half a tea* 
spoonful of salt, and enough flour to make a stiff batter, but thin enough to pour 
from a spoon. Put into a bowl, cover with a cloth, and boil thiee hoius. The 
same, made a little thinner, with a few raisins added, and baked in a weU- 
greased dish is excellent- Two teaspoohfuls of baking-powder in the flour 
improves this pudding. Or if made with sour milk and soda it is equally as good. 

SUET PLUM PUDDING. 

One cupful of suet, chopped fine, one cupful of cooking molasses, one cupful 
of milk, one cupful of raisins, thr-ee and one-half cupfuls of flom*, one e^'gy on© 
teaspoonful of cloves, two of cinnamon, and one of nutmeg, a little salt, one tea- 
spoonful of soda; boil thi-ee hours in a pudding-mold set into a kettle of tvater, 
eat with common sweet sauce. If sour milk is used in place of sweet, the pud- 
ding will be much lighter. 

PEACH COBBLER. 

Line a deep dish with rich thick crust; pare and cut into halves or quarters 
some juicy, rather tart peaches; put in sugar,*6pices and flavoring to taste; stew 
it slightly, and put it in the lined dish; cover with thick crust of rich puff paste. 



368 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

and bake a rich brown; when done, break up the top cmst into small pieces, and 
stir it into the fruit; serve hot or cold; very palatable without sauce, but more 
BO with plain, rich cream or cream sauce, or vdth a rich bmndy or wine. Other 
fruits, can be used in place of peaches. Currants are best made in this manner: 

Press the currants through a sieve to free it fi'om pips; to each pint of the 
pulp put two ounces of crumbed bread and four ounces of sugar; bake with a 
rim of puff -paste; serve with cream. White currants may be used instead of red. 

HOMINY PUDDING. 
Two-thirds of a cupful of hominy, one and a half pints of milk, two eggs, 
one tablespoonful of butter, one teaspoonful of extract of lemon or vanilla, one 
cupful of sugar. Boil hominy in milk one hour; then pour ft on the eggs, 
extract and sugar, beaten together; add butter, pour in buttered pudding-dish, 
bake in hot oven for twenty minutes. 

BAKED BERRY ROLLS. 

RoU rich biscuit-dough thin, cut it into Uttle squares four inches wide and 
seven inches long. Spread over vdth beiries, RoU up the crust, and put the 
rolls in a dripping-pan just a httle apart; put a piece of butter on each roll, 
spices if you Hke. Strew over a large handful of sugar, a httle hot water. S<^t 
in the oven and bake hke dumphngs. Served with sweet sauce. 

GREEN-CORN PUDDING. 

Take two dozen full ears of sweet green corn, score the kernels and cut them 
from the cob. Scrape off what remains on the cob with a knife. Add a pint 
and a haff or one quart of milk, according to the youngness and juiciness of the 
com. Add four eggs well beaten, a half teacupful of flour, a half teacupful of 
butter, a tablespoonful of sugar, and salt to taste. Bake in a. well-greased 
earthen dish, in a hot oven, two hours. Place it on the table browned and 
smoking hot, eat it with plenty of fresh butter. This can be used as a 
dessert, b}' serving a sweet sauce with it. If eaten plainly with butter, it 
answers as a side vegetable. 

GENEVA WAFERS. 
Two eggs, three ounces of butter, three ounces of flour, three ounces of 
pounded sugar. Well whisk the eggs, put them into a basin, and stir to them the 
butter, which should be beaten to a cream; add the flour and sifted sugar gradu- 
ally, and then mix all well together. Butter a baking-sheet, and drop on it a 
teaspoonful of the mixture at a time, leaving a space between each. Bake in 
a cool oven; watch the pieces of paste, and, when half done, roU them up like 



DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 369 

■wafers, and put in a small wedge of bread or piece of wood,^to keep them in 
shape, Eeturn them to the oven until crisp. Before serving, remove the bread, 
put a spoonful of preserve in the widest end, and fill up with whipped cream. 
This is a very pretty and ornamental dish for the supper-table, and is very nice, 
and very easUy made. 

MINUTE PUDDING. No. i. 

Set a sauce-pan or deep frying-pan on the stove, the bottom and sides well 
buttered, put into it a quart of sweet milk, a pinch of salt, and a piece of butter 
as large as half an egg; when it boils have ready a dish of sifted flour, stir it 
into the boiling milk, sifting it through your fingers, a handful at a time, until 
it becomes smooth and quite thick. Turn it into a dish that has been dipped in 
water. Make a sauce very sweet to serve with it. Maple molasses is /ine with 
it. This pudding is much improved by adding canned berries or fresh ones just 
before taking from the stove. 

MINUTE PUDDING. No. 2. 

One quart of milk, salt, two eggs, about a pmt of flour. Beat the eggs weU; 
add the flour and enough milk to make it smooth. Butter the sauce-pan and 
put in the remainder of the milk well salted; when it boils, stir in the flaur, 
eggs, etc., lightly; let it cook well. It should be of the consistency of thick com 
mush. Serve immediately with the following simple sauce, viz : Rich milk or 
cream sweetened to taste, and flavored with grated nutmeg. 

SUNDERLAND PUDDING. 
One cupful of sugar, half a cupful of cold butter, a pint of milk, two cupfuls 
of sifted flour, and five eggs. Make the milk hot; stir in the butter, and let it 
cool before the other ingredients are added to it; then stir in the sugar, flour, 
and eggs, which should be well whisked, and omit the whites of two; flavor 
with a little grated lemon-rind, and beat the mixture well. Butter some small 
cups, rather more than half fill them; bake from twenty minutes to half an 
hour, according to the size of the puddings, and serve vdth fruit, custard or 
wine sauce, a httle of. which may be poured over them. They may be dropped 
by spoonfuls on buttered tins, and baked, if cups are not convenient. 

JELLY PUDDINGS. 
Two cupfuls of very fine, stale biscuit or bread crumbs; one cupful of rich 
milk — half cream, if you can get it; five eggs, beaten very light; half a tea- 
spoonful of soda, stirred in boiling water; one cupful of sweet jelly, jam or mar- 
malade. Scald the milk and pour over the crumbs. Beat until half cold, and 



370 DUMPLINGS AND PUDDINGS. 

stir in the beaten yolks, then whites, finally the soda. Fill large cups half full 
with the batter; set in a quick oven and bake half an houi*. When done, turn 
out quickly, and dexterously; with a shai"p knife make an incision inthe side of 
each; puU partly open, and put a hberal spoonful of the conserve within.. Close 
thesht by-pinohing the edges with your lingers. Eat warm v/ith sweetened 
cream. 

QUICK PUDDING. 
Soak and spht some crackers; lay the sm-face over with raisins and citron; 
put the halves together, tie them in a bag, and boil fifteen minutes in milk and 
water: delicious with rich sauce. 

READY PUDDING. 
Make a batter of one quart of milk, and about one pound of flour; add six 
eggs, the yolks and whites separately beaten, a teaspoonful of salt and four 
tablespoonfuls of sugar. It should be as stiff as can possibly be stirred with a 
spoon. Dip a spoonful at a time into quick boiling water, boil from five to ten 
minutes, take out. Serve hot with sauce or syrup. 

A ROYAL DESSERT. 

Cut a stale cake into slices an inch and a half in thickness; pour over them 
a little good, sweet cream ; then fry lightly in fresh butter in a smooth frying- 
pan; when done, place over each shce of cake a layer of preserves; or, you may 
make a rich sauce to be served with it. 

Another disli equally as good, is to dip thin slices of bread into fresh nulk; 
have ready two eggs weU-beaten; dip the shces in the egg, and fry them in 
butter to a hght brown; when fried, pour over them a syrup, any kind that you 
choose, and serve hot. 

HUCKLEBERRIES WITH CRACKERS AND CREAM. 
Pick over carefully one quart of blueberries, and keep them on ice imtil 
wanted. Put into each bowl, for each guest, two soda-crackers, broken in not 
too small pieces; add a few tablespoonfuls of bemes, a teaspoonful of powdered 
sugar, and fill the bowl with the richest of cold, swef^t cream. This is an old- 
fashioned New England breakfast dish. It also answers for a dessert. 



BRANDY SAUCE, COLD. 

Two cupfuls of powdered sugar, haK a cupful of butter, one wine-glassful of 
brandy, cinnamon and nutmeg, a teaspoonful of each. Warm the butter 
slightly, and work it to a light cream with the sugar, then add the brandy and 
spices; beat it hard and set aside until wanted. Should be put into a mold to 
look nicely, and serve on a flat dish. 

BRANDY OR WINE SAUCE. No. i. 
Stir a heaping teaspoonful of cora-starch in a little cold water to a smooth 
paste (or instead use a tablespoonful of sifted flom*); add to it a cupful of boiling 
water, with one cupful of sugai', a piece of butter as large as an egg, boU all 
together ten minutes. Remove from the fire, and when cool, stir into it half of 
a cupful of brandy or wine. It should be about as thick as thin syrup. 

RICH WINE SAUCE. No. 2. 
One cupful of butter, two of powdered sugar, half a cupful of wine. Beat 
the butter to a cream. Add the sugar gradually, and when very light add the 
wine, which has been made hot, a little at a time, a teaspoonful of grated nut- 
meg. Place the bowl in a basin of hot water, and stir for two minutes. The 
sauce should be smooth and foamy. 

BRANDY OR WINE SAUCE. No. 3 
Take one cupful of butter, two of powdered sugar, the whites of two eggs, 
five tablespoonfuls of sherry wine or brandy, and a quarter of a cupful of boiling 
water. Beat butter and sugar to a cream, add the whites of the eggs, one at a 
time, unbeaten, and then the wine or brandy. Place the bowl in hot water, and 
stir til] smooth and frothy. 



372 SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 

SAUCE FOR PLUM-PUDDING. (Superior. 

Cream together a cupful of sugar and half a cupful of butter; when light 
and creamy, add the well-beaten yolks of fom' eggs. Stir into this one wine- 
glass of wine or one of brandy, a pinch of salt and one large cupful of hot cream 
or rich milk. Beat this mixture well; place it in a sauce-pan over the fii-e, stir 
it until it cooks sufficiently to thicken like cream. Be sure and not Ist it boil. 
DcHcious. 

LIQUID BRANDY SAUCE. 

Brown over the fire three tablespoonfuls of sugar; add a cupful of water, six 
whole cloves and a piece of stick cinnamon, the yellow rind of a lemon cut veiy 
thin; let the sauce boil, strain while hot, then pour it into a sauce bowl contain 
ing the juice of the lemon and a cup of brandy. Serve warm. 

GRANDMOTHER'S SAUCE. 
Cream together a cupful of sifted sugar and half a cupful of butter, add a 
teaspoonful of gi-ound cinnamon and an egg well beaten. Boil a teacupful of 
milk and turn it, boihng hot, over the mixture slowly, stu-ring all the time; this 
will cook the egg smootlily. It may be served cold or hot. 

SUGAR SAUCE. 
One coffee-cupful of granulated sugar, half of a cupful of water, a piece of 
butter the size of a walnut. Boil all together until it becomes the consistency of 
Byi'up. Flavor with lemon or vanilla extract. A tablespoouful of lemou-juice 
is an improvement. Nice "^vith. cottage pudding. 

LEMON SAUCE. 
One cupful of sugar, half a cupful of butter, one egg beaten light, one lemon, 
juice and grated rind, half a cupful of boiling water; put in a tin basin and 
fchickeu over steam. 

LEMON, CREAM SAUCE,- HOT. 
Put half a pmt of new im'lk on the fii-e, and when it boils stir into it one tea- 
spoonful of wheat flour, four ounces of sugar and the ^\'eU-beaten yolks of tliree 
eggs; remove it from the fire and add the grated rind and the juice of one lemon; 
stii" it well, and serve hot in a sauce tui'een. 

ORANGE CREAM SAUCE, HOT. 
Tills is made as ** Lemon Cream Sauce," substituting orange for lemon. 
Creams for puddings, pies and fritters, may be made in the same manner 



SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 373 

: with any other flavoring; if flour is used in making them, it should boil in the 
milk three or four minutea. 

COLD LEMON SAUCE. 
Beat to a cream one teacupful of butter and two teacupf uls of fine whitei sugar; 
then stir in the juice and grated rind of one lemon: grate nutmeg upon the 
Bauce, and serve on a flat dish. 

COLD ORANGE SAUCE. 
Beat to a cream one teacupful of butter and two teacupf uls of fine white sugar; 
then stir in the grated rind of one orange and the juice of two; stir until all the 
orange- juice is absorbed; gTate nutmeg upon the sauce, and serve on a flat dish. 

COLD CREAM SAUCE. 
Stir to a cream one cupful of sugar, hal£ a cupful of butter, then add a cupful 
of sweet, thick, cold cream, flavor to taste. Stu: well, and set it in a cool place. 

CREAM SAUCE, WARM. 

Heat a pint of cream slowly in a double boiler; when nearly boiHng, set it off 
from the flre, put into it half a cupful of sugar, a httle nutmeg or vam'Ua extract; 
stir it thoroughly, and add, when cool, the whites of two well-beaten eggs. Set 
it on the fire in a dish containing hot water to keep it warm until needed, stir- 
ring once or more. 

CARAMEL SAUCE. 

Place over the fire a sauce-pan; when it begins to be hot, put into it four 
tablespoonfuls of white sugar, and one tablegpoonful of water. Stir it continu- 
ally for three or four minutes, until all the water evaporates; then watch it 
carefully until it becomes a delicate brown color. Have ready a pint of cold 
water and cup of sugar mixed with some flavoring; turn it into the sauce-pan 
with the browned sugar, and let it simmer for ten minutes; then add half a glass 
of brandy or a glass of wine. The wine or brandy may be omitted if preferred. 

A GOOD, PLAIN SAUCE. 
A good sauce to go with plain fruit puddings is made by mixing one cupful 
of brown sugar, one cupful of best molasses, half a cupful of butter, one large 
teaspoonful of flour; add the juice and grated rind of one lemon, half a nutmeg, 
grated, half a teaspoonful of cloves and cinnamon. When these are aU stirred 
together, add a teacupful of boiling water; stir it constantly, put into a sauce- 
pan and let it boil until clear; then strain. 



374 SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 

OLD-STYLE SAUCE 

One pint of sour cream, the juice and finely grated rind of a large lemon; 
sugar to taste. Beat hard and long imtil the sauce is very hght. This is deUc- 
ious with cold " Brown Betty "—a form of cold farina, corn-starch, blanc- mange, 
and the like. 

PLAIN COLD, HARD SAUCE 
Stir together one cupful of white sugar, and half a cupful of butter, until it 
is creamy and light; add flavoring to taste. This is very nice, flavored with the 
juice of raspberries or strawberries, or beat into it a cupful of ripe strawberries 
or raspberries and the white of an egg, beaten stiff. 

CUSTARD SAUCE. 

One cupful of sugar, two beaten eggs, one pmt of milk, flavoring to taste, 
brandy or wine, if preferred. 

Heat the milk to boiling,, add by degrees the beaten eggs and sugar, put in 
the flavoring, and set within a pan of boiling water; stir until it begins to 
thicken; then take it off, and stir in the brandy or wine gradually; set, imtil 
wanted, within a pan of boiling water, 

MILK SAUCE. No. i. 
Dissolve a tablespoonful of flour in cold milk; see that it is free from lumps. 
Whisk an ounce of butter and a cupful of sugar to a cream, and add to it a 
pinch of salt. Mix together half a pint of milk, one egg, and the flour; stir this 
into the butter, and add a dash of nutmeg, or any flavor; heat until near the 
boilmg point, and serve. Very nice in place of cold cream. 

MILK OR CREAM SAUCE 
Cream or rich milk, simply sweetened with plenty of white sugar and flavored, 
answers the purpose of some kinds of pudding, and can be made very quickly. 

FRUIT SAUCE. 
Two thirds of a cupful of sugar, a pint of raspberries or strawbenies, a table- 
spoonful of melted butter and a cupful of hot water. Boil all together slowly, 
removing the scum as fast as it rises; then sti-ain thi-ough a sieve. This is 
very good served with dumpUngs or apple puddings. 

JELLY SAUCE. 
Melt two tablespoonf uls of sugar and half a cupful of jelly over the fire in a 
cupful of boiling water, adding also two tablespoonfuls of butter; then stir into , 



SAUCES FOR PUDDINGS. 375 

it a teaspoonful of corn-starch, dissolved in half a cupful of -water or -wine; add 
it to the jelly, and let it come to a boil. Set it in a dish of hot water to keep it 
warm until time to serve; stir occasionally. Any fiaiit jelly can be used. 

COMMON SWEET SAUCE. 

Into a pint of water stir a paste made of a tablespooonf ul of corn-starch or 
flour (rubbed smooth with a little cold water); add a cupful of sugar and a table- 
epoonful of vinegar. Cook weU for three minutes. Take from the fire and- add 
a piece of butter as large as a small egg; when, cool, flavor with a tablespoonful 
of vanilla or lemon extract-, 

SYRUP FOR FRUIT SAUCE. 

An excellent syrup for fruit sauce is made of Morello cherries (red, sqUr 
cherries). For each pound of cherry juice, allow half a pound of sugar and six 
cherry kernels ; seed the cherries and let them stand in a bowl over night ; in 
the morning, press them thi-ough a fine cloth which has been dipped in boiling 
water ; weigh the juice, add the sugar, boil fifteen minutes, removing aU the 
scum. Fill small bottles that are perfectly diy with the syrup; when it is cold, 
cork the bottles tightly, seal them and keep them in a cool place, standing 
upright. 

Most excellent to put into pudding sauces. 

ROSE BRANDY. (For Cakes and Puddings.) 

Gather the leaves of roses while the dew is on them, and as soon as they 
open, put them into a wide-mouthed bottle, and when the bottle is full, pour in 
the best of fourth proof Fiench brandy. 

It wiU be fit for use in three or four weeks, and may be frequently replenished. 
It is sometimes considered preferable to wine as a flavoring to pastries and pud- 
ding sauces.. 

,LEMON BRANDY. (For Cakes and Puddings.) 

When you use lemons for punch or lemonade, do not throw away ine peels, 
but cut them in small pieces — the thin yellow outside (the thick pait is not good), 
and put them in a glass jar or bottle of brandy. You will find this brandy useful 
for many purposes. 

In the same way keep for use the kernels of peach and plum stones, pound 
ing them slightly before you put them into the brandy. 



Fruit for preserving should be sound and free from all defects, usmg white 
sugar, and also that which is dry, which produces the nicest syrup; dark sugar 
can be used by being clarified, wliich is done by dissolving two poimds of sugar 
in a pint of water; add to it the white of an egg, and beat it well, put it into a 
preserving kettle on the fire, and stir with a wooden spoon. As soon as it begins 
to swell and boil up, throw in a little cold water; let it boil up again, take it off, 
and remove the scum; boil it again, throw in more cold water, and remove the 
scum; repeat until it is clear and pours like oil from the spoon. 

In the old way of preserving, we used pound for pound, when they were kept 
in stone jars or crocks; now, as most preserves are put up in sealed jars or cans, 
less sugar seems sufficient; three-quarters of a pound of sugar is generally all 
that is required, for a pound of fmit. 

Fniit should be boiled in a porcelain-hned or granite-ware dish, if possible; 
but other utensils, copper or metal, if made bright and clean, answer as well. 

Any of the fruits that have been preserved in syrup may be converted into 
dry preserves, by first draining them from the syrup, and then drying them in a 
stove or very moderate oven, adding to them a quantity of powdered loaf sugar, 
which will gradually penetrate the fruit,, while the fluid parts of the sjruTp gently 
evaporate. They should be dried in the stove or oven on a sieve, «,ud turned 
eveiy six or eight horns, fresh powdered sugar being sifted over them every time 
they are turned. Afterwards, they are to be kept in a dry situation, in drawers 
or boxes. Currants and cherries preserved whole in this manner, in bunches, 
are extremely elegant, and have a fine flavor. In this way it is, also, that 
orange and lemon chips are preserved. 

Mold can be prevented from fonning on fruit jellies by pouring a Uttle melted 
paraffine over the top. When cool, it will harden to a solid cake, -which can be 
easily removed when the jeUy is used,- and saved to use over again another year. 
It is perfectly harmless and tasteless. 



PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 577 

Large glass tumblers are the best for keeping jellies, much better than large 
vessels, for by being opened frequently they soon spoil; a paper should be cut to 
fit, and placed over the jelly; then put on the, lid or cover, with thick paper 
rubbed over on the inside with the white of an ^^^. 

There cannot be too much care taken in selecting fruit for jellies, for if the 
friiit is over ripe, any amount of time in boiling will never make it jelly, — there 
is where so many fail in making good jelly; and another important matter is 
overlooked— that of carefully skimming off the juice after it begins to boil and 
a scum rises from the bottom to the top; the juice should not be stirred, but the 
scmn carefully taken off: if allowed to boil under, the jelly will not be clear. 

When either preserves or canned fruits show any indications of fermenta- 
tion, they should be immediately rebelled with more sugar, to save them. It is 
much better to be generous with the sugar at first, than to have any losses after- 
wards. Keep all presei-ves in a cool, dry closet. 

PRESERVED CHERRIES. 
• Take large, ripe Morella cherries; weigh them, and to each pound allow a 
pound of loaf sugar. Stone the cherries, (opening them with a sharp quill,) and 
save the juice that comes from them in the process. As you stone them, throw 
them into a large pan or tureen, and strew about half the sugar over them, and 
let them lie in.it an hour or two after they are all stoned. Then put them into 
a preserving-kettle with the remainder of the sugar, and boil and skim them till 
the fruit is clear and the syrup thick. 

PRESERVED CRANBERRIES. 

The cranberries must be large and ripe. Wash them, and to six quarts of 
cranberries allow nine pounds of the best loaf sugar. Take three quarts of the 
cranberries, and put them into a stew-pan with a pint and a half of water. 
Cover the pan, and boil or stew them tiU they are all to pieces; Then squeeze 
the juice through a jelly bag. Put the sugar into a preserving kettle, pour the 
cranberry juice over it, and let it stand untU it is all melted, stirring it up fre- 
quently. Then place the kettle over the fire, and put in the remaining "three 
quarts of whole cranberries. Let them boil till they are tender, clear, and of a 
bright color, skimming them frequently. When done, put them wai-m into jara 
with the syrup, which sliould be like a. thick jelly. 

PRESERVED STRAWBERRIES. 
For every pound of fruit weigh a pound of refined sugar, put. them with tb» 
sugar over the fire in a porcelain kettle^ bring to a boil slowly about twenty 



378 PRESERVES, /EL LIES, ETC. 

niinutes. Take them out cai-ef ully with a perforated skimmer, and fill your hot 
jars nearly full; . boil the juice a few minutes longer, and fill up the jars; seal 
them hot. Keep in a cool, dry place. 

to PRESERVE BERRIES WHOLE. (Excellent) 
Buy the fruit when hot too ripe, pick over immediately, wash if absolutely 
necessary, and put in glass jars, filling each one about two-thirds fuH 

Put in the preserving kettle a pound of sugar and one cupful of water for 
every two pounds of fruit, and let it come slowly to a boil. Pour this syrup into 
the jars over the berries, filling them up to the brim; then set the jars in a pot 
of cold water on the stove, and let the water boil and the fruit become scalding 
hot. Now take them out and seal perfectly tight. If this process is followed 
thoroughly, the fruit will keep for several years. 

PRESERVED EGG PLUMS. 

Use a pound of sugar for a pound of plums; wash the plums, and wipe dry; 
put the sugar on a slow fire in the preserving-kettle, with as much water as 
will melt the sugar, and let it simmer slowly; then prick each plum thoroughly 
with a needle, or a fork with fine piongs, and place a layer of them in the syrup; 
let them cook until they lose their color a little and the skius begin to break; 
then lift them out with a perforated skimmer, and place them singly in a large 
dish to cool; then put another layer of plums in the syrup, and let them cook 
and cool in the same manner, until the whole are done; as they cool, carefully 
replace the broken skins so as not to spoil the appearance of the pltuns; when 
the last layer is finished, retimi the first to the kettle, and boil until transparent; 
do the same with each layer; while the latest cooked are cooling, place the first 
in glass jars; when all are done, pour the hot syrup over them; when they are 
cold, close as usual ; the jelly should be of the color and consistency of rich wine 

jelly- 

PRESERVED PEACHES. 

Peaches for preserving may be ripe but not soft; cut them in halves, take out 
the stones, and pare them neatly ; take as many pounds of white sugai- as of 
fruit, put to each pound of sugar a teacupful of water; stir it until it is dissolved; 
set it over a moderate fire; when it is boiling hot, put Ln the peaches; let them 
boil gently until a pure, clear, uniform color; turn those at the bottom to the top 
carefull)^ with a sldmmer several times; do not hurr)^ them. When they are 
clear, take each half up with a spoon, and spread the halves on flat dishes to 
become cold. When all are done, let the syrup boil until it is quite thick; pour it 



PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 379 

into a large pitcher, and let it set to cool and settle. ^ When the peaches are cold 
put them carefully into jars, and pour the syrup over them, leaving any sedi- 
ment which has settled at the bottom, or strain the syrup. Some of the kernels 
from the peach-stones may be put in with the peaches while boihag. Let them 
remain open one night, then cover. 

In like manner quince, plum, apricot, apple, cherry, greengage and other 
fruit preserves are made; in every case fine large fruit should be taken, free 
from imperfections, and the shghtest bruises or other fault should be removed, 

PRESERVED GREEN TOMATOES- 
Take one peck of green tomatoes. Slice six fresh lemons without removing 
the skins, but taking out the seeds; put to this quantity six pounds of sugar, 
common white, and boil imtil transparent and the syrup thick. Ginger root 
may be added, if liked. 

PRESERVED APPLES. (Whole.) 
Peel and core large firm apples (pippins are best). Throw them into water 
as you pare them. Boil the parings in water for fifteen minutes, allowing a 
pint to one pound of fruit. Then strain, and, adding three-quarters of a pound 
of sugar to each pint of water, as measured at first, with enough lemon-peel, 
orange-peel or mace, to impart .a pleasant flavor, return to the kettle. When 
the syrup has been well-skimmed and is clear, pour it boiling hot over the 
apples, which must be drained from the water in which they have hitherto 
stood. Let them remain in the syrup until both are perfectly cold. Then, 
covering closely, let them simmer over a slow fire until transparent. When all 
the minutiae of these directions are attended to, the fruit will remain unbroken, 
and present a beautiful and inviting appearance. 

PRESERVED QUINCES. 
Pare, core and quarter your fruit, then weigh it and allow an equal quantity 
of white sugar. Take the parings and cores, and put in a preserving- kettle; 
cover them with water and boil for half an hour; then strain through a hair 
sieve, and put the juice back into the kettle and boil the quinces in it a httle at a 
time until they are tender; hft out as they are done with a drainer and" lay on 
a dish; if the hquid seems scarce add more water. When all are cooked, throw 
into this liquor the sugar, and allow it to boil ten minutes before putting in the 
quinces; let them boil until they change color, say one hour and a quarter, on a 
slow fire; while they are boiling occasionally slip a silver spoon under them to 
see that they do not burn, but on no account stir them. Have two fresh lemons 
25 



38o PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 

cut in thin slices, and when the fruit is being put in jars lay a slice or two in each. 
Quinces may be steamed until tender. 

PRESERVED PEARS. 

One pound of fruit, one pound of sugar; pare off Uio peehng thin. Make a 
nice syrup of nearly one cupful of water and one pound of sugar, and when 
clarified by boiling and skimming put in the pears and stew gently until clear. 
Choose rather pears like the Seckle for preserving, both on account of the flavor 
and size. Aziice way is to stick a clove in the blossom end of each pear, for 
this fruit seems to require some extraneous flavor to bring out its 0"wti piquancy. 
Another acceptable addition to pear preserves may be found instead, by adding 
the juice and thinly pared rind of one lemon to each five pounds of fruit. If the 
pears. are hard and tough, parboil them until tender before beginning to pre- 
serve, and from the same water take what you need for making their syrup. 

If you can procure only large pears to preserve, cut them into halves, or even 
slices, so that they can get done more quickly, and lose notliing in appearance, 
either. 

PINEAPPLE PRESERVES. 

Twist of£ the top and bottom, and paie off the rough outside of pineapples- 
then weigh them and cut them in shces, chips or quarters, or cut them in four 
or six, and shape each piece like a whole pineapple; to each pound of fruit, put a 
teaoupful of water; put it in a preserving kettle, cover it and set it over the 
fire, and let them boil gently tmtil they are tender and clear; then take them 
from the water, by sticking a fork in the centre of each slice, or with a skimmer, 
into a dish. 

Put to the water white sugar, a pound for each pound of fruit; stir it until it 
is all dissolved; then put in the pineapple, cover the kettle, and let them boD 
gently until transparent though out; when it is so, take it out, let it cool, and 
put it* in glass jars; let the syrup boil or simmer gently until it is thick and rich, 
and when nearly cool, pour it over the fruit. The next day secure the jars, as 
before directed. 

Pineapple done in this way is a beautiful and dehcious preserve. The usual 
manner of preserving it, by putting it mto the syrup without first boiling it, 
makes it httle better than sweetened leather. 

TO PRESERVE WATERMELON RIND AND CITRON. 
Pare off the green skm, cut the watermelon lind into pieces. Weigh the 
pieces, and allow to each pound a pound and a half of loaf sugar. Line your 



PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 38 1 

kettle with gi-een vine-leaves, and put in the pieces without the sugar. A layer 
of vine-leaves must cover each layer of melon rind. Pour in water to cover the 
whole, and place a thick cloth over the kettle. Simmer the fruit for two hours, 
after scattering a few bits of alum amongst it. Spread the melon rind on a dish 
to cool. Melt the sugar, using a pint of water to a pound and a half of sugar, 
and mix with it some beaten white of egg. Boil and skim the sugar. When 
quite clear, put in the rind, and let it boil two hours; take out the rind, boil 
the syrup again, pour it over the rind, and let it remain all night. The next 
morning, boil the syrup with lemon-juice, allowing one lemon to a quart of 
syrup. When it is thick enough to hang in a drop from the point of a spoon, it 
is done. Put the rind in jars, and pour over it the syrup. It is not fit for use 
immediately. 

Citrons may be preserved in the same manner, first paring off the outer skin, 
and cutting them into quarters. Also green Hmes. 

TO PRESERVE AND DRY GREENGAGES. 

To every pound of sugar allow one pound of fruit, one quarter pint of water. 

For this purpose, the fruit must be used before it is quite ripe, and part of 
the stalk must be left on. Weigh the fniit, rejecting all that is in the least 
degree blemished, and put it into a lined sauce-pan with the sugar and water, 
which should have been previously boiled together to a rich syrup. Boil the 
fruit in this for ten minutes, remove it from the fire, and drain the greengages. 
The next day boil up the syrup and put in the fruit again, let it simmer for 
three minutes, and drain the syrup avv^ay. Continue this process for five or 
six days, and the last time place the greengages, when drained, on a hair-sieve, 
and put them in an oven or warm spot to dry; keep them in a box, with paper 
between each layer, in a place free from damp. 

' PRESERVED PUMPKINS. 

To each poimd of pumpkin allow one pound of roughly pounded loaf, sugar, 
one gill of lemon- juice. 

Obtain a good, sweet pinnpkin; halve it, take out the seeds, and pare off the 
rind; cut it into neat sUces. Weigh the pumpkin, put the sUces in a pan or deep 
dish in layers, with the sugar sprinkled between them; pour the lemon-juice 
over the top, and let the whole remain for two or three days. Boil all together, 
adding half a pint of water to every three poimds of sugar used until the 
pumpkin becomes tender; then turn the whole into a pan, where let it remain 
for a week; then drain off the syrup, boil it until it is quite thick; skim, sldA 



382 PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 

pour it boiling over the pumpkin. A little bruised ginger, and lemon-rind, 
thinly pared, may be boiled in the syixip to flavor the pumpkia 

— A Southern recipe. 
PRESERVING FRUIT. (New Mode.) 

Housekeepers who dislike the tedious, old-time fashion of clarifying sugar 
and boiling the fruit, will appreciate the following two recipes no fire being 
needed in their preparation. The first is for "tutti frutti," and has been re- 
peatedly tested with unvarying success. 

Put one quart of white, preserving, fine Batavia brandy into a 'v>ro gallon 
stone jar that has a tightly fitting top. Then for every pound of frurt. in prime 
condition and perfectly dry, which you put in the brandy, use three quarters of 
a pound of granulated sugar; stir every day so that the sugar will be dissolved, 
using a cleau, wooden spoon kept for the purpose. Every sort of fruit may be 
used, beginning with strawberries and ending with plums. Be sure and have at 
least one pound of black chemes, as they make the color of the preserve very 
rich. Strawberries, raspbemes, blackberries, apricots, cheiries (sweet and sour), 
peaches, plums, are all used, and, if you like, currants and grapes. Plums and 
grapes should be peeled and seeded, apricots and peaches peeled and cut in 
quarters or eighths or dice; cherries also must be seeded : quinces may be steamed 
until tender. The jar must be kept in a cool, dry place, and the daily stirring 
must never be forgotten, for that is the secret of success. You may use as much 
of one sort of fruit as you like, and it may be put in from day to day, just as 
you happen to have it. Half the quantity of spirits may be used. The preserve 
will be ready for use within a week after the last fruit is put in, and wiJl keep 
for a number of months. We have found it good eight months after making. 

The second is as foUows: Take some pure white vinegar and mix with it 
granulated sugar until a syrup is formed quite free from acidity. Pour this 
syrup into earthen jars and put in it good, perfectly ripe fruit, gathered in dry 
weather. . Cover the jars tight, and put them in a dry place. The contents wiU 
keep for six or eight months, and the flavor of the fruit will be excellent. 

TO PRESERVE FRUIT WITHOUT SUGAR. 

Cherries, strawberries, sliced pineapple, plums, apricots, gooseberries, etc., 
may be preserved in the following manner — to be used the same as fresh fruit. 

Gather the fruit before it is very ripe; put it in wide mouthed bottles made 
for the purpose; fill them as full as they wiU hold, and cork them tight; seal the 
corks; put some hay in a large saucepan, set in the bottles, with hay between 
them to prevent their touching; then fill the sauce-pan with water to the necks 



PHESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 3^3 

of the bottles, and set it over the fire until the water is nearly boiling, then take 
it off; let it stand until the bottles are cold. Keep them in a cool place until 
wanted, when the fruit wUl be found equal to fresh. 

NEW METHOD OF PRESERVING FRUIT. 
A new method of preserving fruit is practiced in England. Pears, apples 
and other fruits are reduced to a paste by jamming, which is then pressed into 
cakes and gently dried. When required for use it is only necessary to pour four 
times their weight of boiUng water over them, and allow them to soak for twenty 
minutes, and then add sugar to suit the taste. The fine flavor of the fruit is 
said to be retained to perfection. The cost of the prepared product is scarcely 
greater than that of the original fruit, differing with the supply and price of the 
latter; the keeping qualities are excellent, so that it may be had at any time of 
the year, and bears long sea-voyages> without detriment. No peeling or coring 
is required so there is no waste. 

FRUIT JELLIES. 

Take a stone jar and put in the fruit, place this in a kettle of tepid water, 
and set on the fire; let it boil closely covered, until the fruit is broken to pieces; 
strain, pressing the bag, a stout, coarse one, hard, putting in a few handfuls 
each time, and between each squeezing turning it inside out to scald off the pulp 
and skins; to each pint of juice allow a pound of loaf sugar; set the juice on 
alone to boil, and while it is boUing, put the sugar into shallow dishes or pans, 
and heat it in the oven, watching and stirring the sugar to prevent burning; 
boil the juice just twenty minutes from the time it begins fairly to boil; by this 
time the sugar should be very hot; throw the sugar into the boiling juice, stir- 
ring rapidly all the time; withdraw the spoon when all is thoroughly dissolved; 
let the jelly come to a boil to make all certain; withdraw the kettle instantly 
from the fire; roll your glasses and cups in hot water, and fill with the scalding 
liquid; the jeUy will form within an hour; when cold, close and tie up as you 
do preserves. 

CURRANT JELLY. 

Currants for jelly should be perfectly ripe and gathered the first week of 
the season ; they lose their jelly property if they hang on the bushes too 
long, <and become too juicy — the juice wiU not be apt to congeal. Strip them 
from the stalks, put them into a stone jar, and set it in a vessel of hot water 
over the fire; keep the water around it boUing imtil the currants are all broken, 
stirring them up occasionally. Then squeeze them through a coarse cloth or 
towel. To each pint of juice allow a pound and a quarter of refined sugar. Put 



384 PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 

the sugar into a porcelain kettle, pour the juice over it, stining frequently. 
Skim it before it boils; boil about twenty minutes, or until it congeals in the 
epoon when held in the air. Pour it into hot jelly glasses and seal when cool. 
Wild frost grape jelly is nice made after this recipe. 

CURRANT JELLY. (New Method.) 

This recipe for making superior jelly without heat is given in a Parisian 
journal cf chemistry, which may be worth trying by some of our readers. The 
currants are to be washed and squeezed in the usual way, and the juice placed 
in a stone or earthen vessel, and set away in a cool place in the cellar. In about 
twenty-four hours a considerable amount of froth will cover the surface, pro- 
duced by fermentation, and this must be removed, and the whole strained again 
through the jelly bag, then weighed, and an equal weight of powdered white 
Bugar is to be added. This is to be stirred constantly until entirely dissolved, 
and then put into jars, tied up tightly, and set away. At the end of another 
twenty-four hours a perfectly transparent jelly of the most satisfactory flavor 
wiU be formed, which will keep as long as if it had been cooked., 

QUINCE JELLY. 

Quinces for jelly should not be quite ripe, they should be a fine yellow; rub 
off the down from them, core them, and cut them small; put them in a preserv- 
ing kettle with a teacupful of water for each pound; let them stew gently until 
soft, without mashing; put them in a thin muslin bag with the liquor; piess 
them very Ughtly; to each pint of the liquor put a pound of sugar; stir it until 
it is all dissolved, then set it over the fire, and let it boil gently, until by cooling 
some on a plate you find it a good jelly; then turn it into pots or tumblers, and 
when cold, secure as directed for jellies. 

RASPBERRY JELLY. 

To each pint of juice allow one pound of sugar. Let the raspberries be freshly 
gathered, quite ripe, picked from the stalks; put them into a large jar after 
breaking the fruit a little with a wooden spoon, and place this jar, covered, in a 
sauce- pan of boiling water. When the juice is well drawn, which uill be in 
from three-quarters to one hour, strain the fruit through a fine hair sieve or 
cloth; measme the juice, and to every pint allow the above proportion of white 
sugar. Put the juice and sugar into a preserving-pan, place it over the fire, and 
boil gently until the jelly thickens, when a little is poured on a plate; carefully 
remove all the scum as it rises, pour the jelly into small pots, cover down, and 
keep in a dry place. This jelly answers for making raspbeiTy cream, and for 
flavoring various sweet dishes, when, in winter, the fresh fruit is not obtainable. 



PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 385 

APPLE JELLY. 

Select apples that are rather tart and highly flavored; slice them without 
paring; place in a porcelain preserving-kettle, cover with water, and let them 
cook slowly imtil the apples look red. Pour into a colander, drain off the juice, 
and let this run through a jeUy-bag; return to the kettle, which must be care- 
fully washed, and boil half an hour; measure it and allow to every pint of juice 
a pound of sugar and half the juice of a lemon; boil quickly for ten minutes. 

The juice of apples, boiled in shallow vessels, without a particle of sugar, 
makes the most sparkling, dehcious jelly imaginable. Red apples wiU give jelly 
the color and clearness of claret, while that from hght fruit is like amber. Take 
the cider just as it is made, not allowing it to ferment at all, and, if possible, 
boil it in a pan, flat, very large, and shallow. 

GRAPE JELLY. 
Magh well the berries so as to remove the skins; pour all into a preserving 
kettle, and cook slowly for a few minutes to extract the juice; strain through 
a colander, and then through a flannel jelly-bag, keeping as hot as possible, for 
if not allowed to cool before putting again on the stove the jelly comes much 
stiffer; a few quince seeds boiled with the berries the first time tend to stiffen 
it; measure the juice, allowing a pound of loaf sugar to every pint of juice, and 
boil fast for at least haJf an hour. Try a Httle, and if it seems done, remove 
and put into glasses. 

FLORIDA ORANGE JELLY. 

Grate the yellow rind of two Florida oranges and two lemons, and squeeze 
the juice into a porcelain-lined preserving-kettle, adding the juice of two more 
oranges, and removing all the seeds; put in the grated rind a quarter of a pound 
of sugar, or more if the fruit is sour, and a gill of water, and- boil these ingre- 
dients together until a rich syrup is formed; meantime, dissolve two ounces of 
gelatine in a quart of warm water, stirring it over the fire until it is entirely dis- 
solved; then add the syrup, strain the jelly, and cool it in molds wet in cold water. 

CRAB-APPLE JELLY. 

The apples should be juicy and ripe. The fruit is then quartered, the black 

spots in the cores removed, afterward put into a preserving-kettle over the fire,. 

with a teacupful of water in the bottom to prevent burning; more water is added 

as it evaporates while cooking. When boiled to a pulp, strain the apples through 

' a coarse flannel, then proceed as for currant jelly. 



386 PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 

PEACH JELLY. 
Pare the peaches, take out the stones, then sUce them; add to them about a 
quarter of the kernels. Place them in a kettle with enough water to cover 
them. Stir them often until the fruit is well cooked, then strain, and to eveiy pint 
of the juice add the juice of a lemon; measure again, allowing a pound of sugar 
to each pint of juice; heat the sugar very hot, and add when the juice has boiled 
twenty minutes; let it come to a boil, and take instantly from the fire. 

ORANGE SYRUP. 

Pare the oranges, squeeze and strain the juice from the pulp. To one pint of 
juice allow one pound and three-quarters of loaf sugar. Put the juice and sugar 
together, boil and skim it until it is cream; then strain it through a flannel bag, 
and let it stand until it becomes cool, then put in bottles and cork tight. 

Lemon syrup is made in the same way, except that you scald the lemons, 
and squeeze out the juice, allowing rather more sugar. 

ORANGE MARMALADE. 
Allow pound for pound. Pare half the oranges, and cut the rind into shreds. 
Boil in three waters until tender, and. set aside. Grate the rind of the remaining 
oranges; take off, and throw away every bit of the thick white inner skin; 
quarter aU the oranges and take out the seeds. Chop, or cut them into small 
pieces; drain all the juice that will come away, without pressing them, over the 
sugar; heat this, stirring until the sugai" is dissolved, adding a very little water, 
vmless the oranges are very juicy. Boil and skim five or six minutes; put in 
the boiled shreds, and cook ten minutes; then the chopped fruit and grated peel, 
and boil twenty minutes longer. When cold, put into small jars, tied up with 
bladder or paper next the fruit, cloths dipped in wax over all. A nicer way still 
is to put away in tumblers with self-adjusting metal tops. Press brandied tissue 
paper down closely to the fruit. 

LEMON MARMALADE 
Is made as you would pi-epare orange — allo\ving a pound and a quarter of 
sugar to a pound of the f laiit, and using but half the gratfed peel. 

RAISINS. (A French Marmalade.) 
This recipe is particularly valuable at seasons when fruit is scarce. Take six 
fine large cooking apples, peel them, put them over a slow fu-e, together with a 
wineglassf ul of Madeira wine, and half a pound of sugar. When well stewed, split 



PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. ^^J 

and stone two and a half pounds of raisins, and put them to stew with the 
apples, and enough water to prevent then' bui'ning. When ail appears well 
dissolved, beat it through a strainer bowl, and lastly through a sieve. Mold, if 
you like, or put away in small preserve jars, to cut in thin shces for the orna- 
mentation of pastry, or to dish up for eating with cream. 

STRAWBERRY JAM. 

To each pound of fine, and not too ripe berries, allow three-quarters of a 
pound of sugar. Put them into a preserving pan, and stir gently, not to break 
up the fruit; simmer for one-half horn-, and put into pots air-tight. An excel- 
lent way to seal jellies and jams is as the German women do: Cut round covera 
from writing paper a half -inch too large for the tops, smear the inside with the 
unbeaten white of an egg, tie over with a cord, and it will dry quickly and be 
absolutely preservative. A circular paper dipped in brandy, and laid over the 
toothsome contents before covering, will prevent any dampness from affecting 
the flavor. I have removed these covers heavy with mold, to find the preserve 
intact. 

GOOSEBERRY JAM. 

Pick the gooseberries just as they begin to turn. Stem, wash and weigh. 
To four pounds of fruit add half a teacupful of water; boil until soft and add 
four pounds of sugar and boil until clear. K picked at the right stage the jajn 
will be amber-colored and firm, and very much nicer than if the fruit is pre- 
served when ripe, 

BRANDIED PEACHES OR PEARS. 
Four pounds of fruit, four pounds of sugar, one pint of best white brandy. 
Make a syrup of the sugar and enough water to dissolve it. Let this come to a 
boil; put the fruit in and boil five minutes. Having removed the fruit carefully, 
let the syrup boil fifteen minutes longer, or imtil it thickens well^ add the brandy, 
and take the kettle at once from the fire; pour the bot syrup over the fruit, and 
seal. If, after the fruit is taken from the fire, a reddish liquor oozes from it, 
drain this off before adding the clear syrup. Put up in glass jars. Peaches and 
pears should be peeled for brandy ing. Plums should l)e pricked and watched 
carefully for fear of bursting, 

RASPBERRY JAM- 
To five or six pounds of fine red raspberries Cnot too ripe) add an equal quan- 
tity of the finest quality of white sugar. Mash the whole weU in a preserving 
kettle; add about one quart of currant juice (a little less will do), and boil gently 



388 PRESERVES, JELLIES, ETC. 

until it jellies upon a cold plate; then put into small jars; cover with^brandied 
paper, and tie a thick white paper over thorn. Keep in a daric, dry and cool 
place. 

Blackberry or strawberry jam is made the same way, leaving out the curran 
juice. 

A NEW WAY OF KEEPING FRUIT. 

It is stated that experiments have been made in keeping fruit in jars covenxi 
only with cotton batting, and at the end of two yeare the fruit was sound. Tbo 
following directions are given for the process: Use crocks, stone butter- jars on 
any other convenient dishes. Prepare and cook the fruit precisely as for can- 
ning in glass jars; fQl your dishes with fruit while hot; and immediately cover 
with cotton batting, securely tied on. Remember that all putrefaction is caused 
by the invisible creatures in the air. Cooking the fruit expels all these, and they 
cannot pass through the cotton batting. The fruit thus protected will keep an 
indefinite period. It will be remembered that Tyndall has proved that the 
atmospheric germs cannot pass througli a layer of cotton. 

MACEDOINES. 
Suspend in the centre of the jelly mold a bunch of grapes, cherries, berries, or 
currants on their stems, sections of oranges, pineapples, or brandied fruits, and 
pour in a little jelly when quite cold, but not set. It makes a very agreeable 
effect By a little ingenuity you can imbed first one fruit and then another, 
arranging in circles, and pour a httle jelly successively over each. Do not re-heat 
the jelly, but keep it in a warm place, while the mold is on ic« and the first 
layers are hardening. 



Berries and all ripe, mellow fruit require but little cooking, only long enough 
for the sugar to penetrate. Strew sugar oyer them, allow them to stand a few 
hours, then merely scald with the sugar; half to three-quarters of a pound is 
considered sufficient. Harder fruits hke peai-s, quinces, etc., require longer 
boiling. 

The great secret of canning is to make the fruit or vegetable perfectly air- 
tight. It must be put up boiling hot, and the vessel filled to the brim. 

Have your jars conveniently placed near your boihng fruit, in a tin pan of 
hot water on the stove, roll them in the hot water, then fill immediately with 
the hot, scalding fruit, fill to the top, and seal quickly with the tops, which 
should also be heated] occasionally screw down the tops tighter, as the fruit 
shrinks as it cools, and the glass contracts, and allows the air to enter the cans. 
They must be perfectly air-tight. The jars to be kept in a dark, cool, dry place. 

Use glass jars for fruit always, and the fruit should be cooked in a porcelain 
or granite-iron kettle. If you are obhged to use common large-mouthed bottles 
with corks, steam the corks and pare them to a close fit, driving them in with a 
naallet. Use the following wax for sealing: one pound of resin, three ounces of 
beeswax, one and one-half ounces of tallow. Use a brush in covering the corks, 
and as they cool, dip the mouth into the melted wax. Place in a basin of cool 
water. Pack in a cool, dark, and dry cellar. After one week, examine for 
flaws, cracks or signs of ferment. 

The rubber rings used to assist in keeping the air from the fruit cans some- 
times become so dry and brittle as to be almost useless. They can be restored to 
normal condition usually by letting them lie in water in which you have put a 
little ammonia.' Mix in this proportion: One part of ammonia and two parts 
water. Sometimes they do not need to lie in this more than five minutes, but 
frequently a half-hour is needed to restore their elasticity. 



390 CANNED FRUITS. 

CANNED PEACHES. 

To cne pound of peaches allow half a pound of sugar; to six pounds of sugar, 
add half a tumbler of water; put in the kettle a layer of sugar and on6 of peaches 
until- the whole of both are in. Wash about eight peach-leaves, tie them up 
and put into the kettle, remembering to take them put when you begin to fill up 
the jars. Let the sugared fruit remain on the range, but away from the fire, 
until upon tipping the vessel to one side you can see. some liquid; then fill the- 
jars, taking them out of hot water into which they were put when cold, remain- 
ing until it was made to boil around them. In this way you will find out if the 
glass has been properly annealed; for we consider glass jars with stoppers screw- 
ing down upon India-rubber rings as the best for canning fruit in famihes. 
They should be kept in a dark closet; and although somewhat more expensive 
than tin in the first instance, are much nicer, and keep for years with careful 
usage. 

Fruit must be of fine flavor, and rzpe, though not soft, to make nice canned 
fruit. 

Peaches should be thrown into cold water as they are peeled, to prevent a 
yellowish crust. 

CANNED GRAPES. 

There is no fruit so difficult to can nicely as the grape; by observing the fol- 
lowing instructions you will find the grapes rich and tender a year from putting 
up. Squeeze the pulp from the skin, as the seeds are objectionable; boil the 
pulp until the seeds begin to loosen, in one kettle, having the skins boiling in a 
httle water, hard, in another kettle, as they are tough. When the pulp seems 
tender, put it through the sieve; then add the skins, if tender, with the water 
they boil in, if not too much. We use a large coffee-cupful of sugar for a quart 
can; boil until thick, and can in the usual way. 

CANNED STRAWBERRIES. 

After the berries are picked over, let as many as can be put carefully in the 
preserve kettle at once be placed on a platter. To each pound of fruit add 
three- fourths of a pound of sugar; let them stand two or three hours, till the 
juice is drawn from them; pour it into the kettle and let it come to a boil, and 
remove the scum which rises; then put in the berries very carefully. As soon 
as they come thoroughly to a boil put them in warm jars, and seal while boiling 
hot. 



CANNED FRUITS. 391 

TO CAN QUINCES. 

Cut the quinces into thin slices like apples for pies. To one quart jarful of 
quince, take a coffee-saucer and a half of sugar, and a coffee-cupful of water; 
put the sugar and water on the fire, and when boihng put in the quinces; have 
ready the jars with their fastenings^ stand the jars in a pan of boiling water on 
the stove, and when the quince is clear. and tender put rapidly into the jars, fruit 
and syrup together. The jars must be filled so that the syrup overflows, and 
fastened up tight as quickly as possible., 

CANNED PINEAPPLE. 
For six pounds of fruit, when cut and ready to can, make syrup with two 
and a half pounds of sugar and nearly three pints of water; boil syrup five 
minutes and sldm or strain if necessary; then add the fruit, and let it boil up; 
have cans hot, fill and shut up as soon as possible. Use the best white sugar. 
As the cans cool, keep tightening them up. Cut the fruit half an inch thick. 

CANNED FRUIT JUICES. 

Canned fruit juices are an excellent substitute for brandy or wine in all pud- 
dings and sauces, etc.^ 

It is a good plan to can the pure juices of fruit in the summer time, putting it 
by for this purpose. 

Select clean ripe fruit, press out the juice and strain it through a flannel cloth. 
To each pint of juice add one cupful of white gi'anulated sugar. Put it in a 
porcelain kettle, bring it to the boiling point, and bottle while hot in small 
bottles. It must be sealed very tight while it is hot. Wfll keep a long time, the 
same as canned fruit. 

CANNED TOMATOES. 

Canning tomatoes is quite a simple process. A large or small quantity may 
be done at a time, and they should be put in glass jars in preference to those of 
tin, which are apt to injure the flavor. Very ripe tomatoes are the best for the 
purpose. They are first put into a large pan and covered with boiling water. 
This loosens the skin, which is easily removed, and the tomatoes are then put 
into the preserving kettle, set over a moderate fire without the addition of water 
or any seasoning, and brought to a boil. After boihng slowly one-half hour, ' 
they are put into the jars while boiling hot and sealed tightly. They will keep 
two or three years in this way. The jars should be filled to the brim to prevent 
air from getting in, and set in a cool, dark closet. 



392 CANNED FRUITS. 

S 

TO CAN CORN. 

Split the kernels lengthwise with a knife, then scrape with the back of the 
knife, thus leaving the hulls upon the cob. Fill cans full of cut com, pressing 
it in very hard. To press the corn in the can, use the .smaU end of a potato 
masher, as this will enter the can easily. It will take from ten to a dozen large 
ears of com to fill a one-quart can. When the cans are full, screw cover on with 
thumb and first finger; this will be tight enough, then place a cloth in the bottom 
of a wash boiler to prevent breakage. On this put a layer of cans in any posi- 
tion you prefer, over the cans put a layer of cloth, then a layer of cans. Fill the 
boiler in this mamier, then cover the cans weU with cold watery place the boiler 
on the fire,' and hoil three hours without ceasing. On steady boiling, depends 
much of your success. After boiling three hours, hft the boiler from the fire, 
let. the water cool, then take the cans from the boiler and tighten, let them 
remain until cold, then tighten again. Wrap each can in brown paper to 
exclude the light, and keep in a cool dry cellar and be very sure the rubber rings 
are not hardened by use. The rings should be renewed every two years. I 
would advise the beginner to use new rings entirely, for poor rings cause the 
loss of canned f rait and vegetables in many cases. You wiU observe that in 
canning com the cans are not wrapped in a cloth nor heated; merely filled with 
the cut corn. The com in the cans wiU shrink considerably in boiling, but on 
no account open them after canning., 

TO CAN PEAS. 

Fill the can full of peas, shake the can so they can be filled well. You cannot 
press the peas in the can as you did the com, but by shaking the cans they may 
be fiEed quite full. Pour into the cans enough cold water to fill to overflowing, 
then screw the cover tight as you can with your thumb and first finger and 
proceed exactly as in camaing corn. 

String beans are cut as for cooking and canned in the same manner. No 

seasoning of salt, pepper or sugar should be added. 

— Mary Currier Parsons. 
CANNED PLUMS. 
To. every pound of plums aUow a quarter of a pound of sugar. Put the sugar 
and plums alternately into the preserving-kettle, first pricking the plinns to pre- 
vent their breaking. Let them stand on the back of the stove for an hour or 
two, then put them over a moderate fire, and allow to come to a boil; skim and 
pour at once into jars, running a silver spoon handle aroxmd the inside of the jar 
\o break the air-bubbles; cover and screw down the tops. 



CANNED FRVITS. 393 

CANNED MINCE-MEAT. 
Mince-raeat for pies can be preserved for years if canned the same as fruit 
while hot, and put into glass jars and sealed perfectly tight, and set in a cool, 
dark place. One glass quart jar will hold enough to make two ordinary -sized 
pies, and in this way " mince pies " can be had in the middle of summer as well, 
as in winter, and if the cans are sealed properly, the meat will be just as fine 
when opened as when first canned. 

CANNED BOILED CIDER. 

Boiled cider, in our grandmothers' time, was indispensable to the making of 
a good "mince pie," adding the proper flavor and richness, which cannot be 
substituted by any other ingredient, and a gill of which being added to a rule of 
"fruitcake" makes it more moist, keeps longer, and is far superior to fruit 
cake made vsrithout it. Boiled cider is an article rarely found in the market, 
now-a-days, but can be made by anyone, with but Uttle trouble and expense, 
using sxvQQt cider, shortly after it is made, and before fermentation takes place. 
Place five quarts of sfvoee,t cider in a porcelain-lined kettle over the fire, boil it 
slowly until reduced to one quart, carefully watching it that it does not burn; 
turn into glass jars while hot, and seal tightly, the same as canned fruit. It is 
then ready to use any time of the year.. 

CANNED PUMPKIN. 

Pumpkins or squash canned are far more convenient for ready use than 
those dried in the old-fashioned way, 

Cut up pumpkin or squash into small pieces, first cutting off the peel; stew 
tnem until tender, add no seasoning; then mash them very fine with a potato- 
masher. Have ready your cans, made hot, and then fill them with the hot 
pumpkin or squash, seal tight; place in a dark, cool closet. 

PEACH BUTTER. 

Pare ripe peaches and put them in a preserving-kettle, with sufficient water 
to boil them soft; then sift through a colander, removing the stones. To each 
quart of peach put one and one-haK pound of sugar, and boil very slowly one 
hour. Stir often, and do not let them bum. Put in stone or glass jars, and 
keep in a cool place 



394 CAXjXED fpuits. 

PEACHES DRIED WITH SUGAR. 

Peel yellow peaches, cut them from the stone m one piece; allow two pounds 
of sugar to six pounds of fniit; make a syrup of three-quarters of a pound of 
sugar, and a little water; put in the peaches, a few at a time, and let them cook 
gently until quite clear. Take them up carefully on a dish and set them in the 
sun to dry. Strew powdered sugar over them on all sides, a little at a time; if 
any syrup is left, remove to fresh dishes. When they are quite dry, lay them 
lightly in a jar with a little sugar sifted between the layera. 



RED OR PINK COLORING. 
Take two cents' worth of cochineal Lay it on a flat plate, and bruise it with 
the blade of a knife. Put it into half a teacupful of alcohol. Let it stand a 
quarter of an hour, and then filter it through fine muslin. Always ready for 
immediate use, Cork the bottle tight- 
Strawberry or cranberry juice makes a fine coloring for frosting sweet pud- 
dings and eonfectionery. 

DEEP RED COLORING. 

Take twenty grains of cochineal, and fifteen grains of cream of tartar finely 
powdered; add to them a piece of alum the size of a cherry stone, and boil them 
with a gill of soft water, in an earthen vessel, slowly, for half an hour. Then 
strain it through muslin, and keep it tightly corked in a phial If a little alcohol 
is added, it will keep any length of time. 

YELLOW COLORING. 

Take a little saffron, put it into an earthen vessel with a very small quantity 
of cold, soft water, and let it steep till the color of the infusioa is a bright yellow. 
Then strain it, add. half alcohol to it. To color fruit yellow, bpil the fruit with 
fresh skin lemons in water to cover them imtil it is tender;., then take it up, 
spread it on dishes to cool, and finish as may be directed. 

To color icing, put the grated peel of a lemon or orange in a thin muslin bag, 
squeezing a little juice through it, then mixing with the sugar., 

GREEN COLORING. 
Take fresh spinach or beet leaves, and pound them in a marble mortar. If 
you want it.for immediate use, take off the green froth as.it rises, and mix it 
with the article you intend to color. If you wish to keep it a few days, take 



30 COLORING FOR FRUIT, ETC. 

the juice when you have pressed out a tea cupful, and adding lo it a piece of 
alum the size of a pea, give it a boil in a sance-pan. Or make the juice very 
strong and add a quart of alcohol. Bottle it air-tight. 

SUGAR GRAINS. 

These are made by pounding v\hite lump sugar in a mortar and shaking it 
through sieves of ditferent degrees of coarseness, thus accumulating grains of 
different sizes. They are used in ornamenting cake. 

SUGAR GRAINS, COLORED. 

Stir a little coloring— ^ the essence of spinach, or prepared cochineal, or liquid 
cannjne, or indigo, rouge, saffron, etc., — into the sugar gi-ains made as above, un- 
til each grain is stained, tlten spread thern on a baking-sheet, and dry them in 
a warm place. They are used in ornamenting cake. 

CARAMEL OR BURNT SUGAR. 

Put one cupful of sugar and two teaspoonf uls of Avater in a sauce-pan on the 
fire; stir constantly until it is quite a dark color, then add a half cupful of 
water, and a pinch of salt; let it boil a few minutes, and when cold, bottle. 

For coloring soups, sauces or gravies.' 

TO CLARIFY JELLY. 

The white of eggs is, perhaps, the best substance that can he employed in 
clarif}'ing jelly, as well as some other fluids, for the reason that when albumen 
(and the white of eggs is nearly pure albumen) is put iiito a h'quid that is muddy, 
from substances suspended in it, on boiling the hquid the albumen coagvilates in 
a flocculent manner, and, entangling Avith the impurities, rises with them to the 
surface as a scum, or sinks to the bottom, according to their weight. 



Boiling water is a very important disideratum in the making of a good 
cup of coflFee or tea, but the average housewife is very apt to overlook this 
fact. Do not boil the water more than three or four minutes; longer boiling 
ruins the water for coffee or tea-making, as most of its natural properties 
escape by evaporation, leaving a very insipid liquid, composed mostly of lime 
and iron, that would ruin the best coffee, and give the tea a dark, dead look, 
which ought to be the reverse. 

Water left in the tea-kettle over night must never be used for preparing 
the breakfast coffee; no matter how excellent your coffee or tea may be, it 
will be ruined by the addition of water that has been boiled more than once. 

THE HEALING PROPERTIES OF TEA AND COFFEE. 

The medical properties of these two beverages are considerable. Tea is 
used advantageously in inflammatory diseases and as a cure for the headache. 
Coffee is supposed to act as a preventive of gravel and gout, and to its influ- 
ence is ascribed the rarity of those diseases in France and Turkey. Both 
tea and coffee powerfully counteract the effects of opium and intoxicating 
liquors. Avoid the use of coffees ground by the manufacturers, and likewise 
those covered with glazing, since both of these deceptions are practiced to 
conceal imperfections in the original coffee bean. 

COFFEE. 

After grinding the coffee moderately fine, carefully measure in a bowl, 
allowing one tablespoonful to every person. Add white of an egg, using 
one egg to each cup of ground coffee, and mix with water sufficient to 
thoroughly saturate the grounds. Empty this mixture into the coffee-pot, 
then pour on boiling water, a cupful to each tablespoonful of the ground 
coffee. Boil briskly for ten minutes, add a small amount of cold water, and 
set aside ten minutes to settle. Serve immediately, permitting each person 
to sweeten his own cup to suit the individual taste. A tablespoonful of 
whipped cream, laid on each cup, adds greatly to the elegance of the bev- 

397 



2^8 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES^ 

erage. Opinions differ as to the exact proportions of Mocha, Java, etc., 
which should be mixed to produce the best effect; but it is generally con- 
ceded that LION COFFEE combines these qualities of strength and flavor 
to a greater extent than any other kind, and we therefore recommend it for 
use in following these receipts. 

VIENNA COFFEE. 

Allow one heaping tablespoonful of coflfeeto each person, and two extra 
to make good strength. Mix one egg with grounds; pour on coflfee half a3 
much boiling water as will be needed; let coflfee froth, then stir down 
grounds, and let boil five minutes; then let coflfee stand where it will keep 
hot, but not boil, for five or ten minutes, and add rest of water. To one 
pint of cream add the white of an egg, well-beaten; this is to be put in cups 
with sugar, and hot coflfee added. 

FILTERED OR DRIP COFFEE. 

For each person allow a large tablespoonful of finely ground coflfee, and 
to every tablespoonful allow a cupful of boiling water. 

Have a small iron ring made to fit the top of the coflfee-pot inside, and to 
this ring sew a small muslin bag (the muslin for this purpose must not be 
too thin). Fit the bag into the pot, pour some boiling water in it, and, when 
the pot is well-warmed, put the ground coflfee into the bag; pour over as 
much boiling water as is required, close the lid, and, when all the water has 
filtered through, remove the bag, and send the coflfee to table. Making it in 
this manner prevents the necessity of pouring the coflfee from one vessel to 
another, which cools and spoils it. The water should be poured on the 
coflfee gradually so that the infusion may be stronger; and the bag must be 
well made that none of the grounds may escape through the seams and so 
make the coflfee thick and muddy. 

Patent coflfee-pots on this principle can be purchased at most house- 
furnishing stores. 

ICED COFFEE. 

Make more coffee than usual at breakfast time and stronger. When cold 
put on ice. Serve with cracked ice in each tumbler. 

SUBSTITUTE FOR CREAM IN COFFEE. 

Beat the white of an egg, put to it a small lump of butter and pour the 
coflfee into it gradually, stirring it so that it will not curdle. It is difficult 
to distinguish this from fresh cream. 



COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 399 

"Many drop a tiny piece of sweet butter into their cup of hot coffee as a sub- 
stitute for cream. 

TO MAKE TEA. 

Allow two teaspoonf uls of tea to one large cupful of boiling water. Scald the 
teapot, put in the tea, pour on about a cupful of boiling water, set it on the fire 
in a warm place where it will not boil, but keep very hot, to almost boiling; let 
it steep or "draw" ten or twelve minutes. Now fill up with as much boiling 
water as is required. Send hot to the table. It is better to use a china or porce- 
lain teapot, but if you do use metal let it be tin, new, bright and clean; never use 
it when the tin is worn off and the iron exposed. If you do you are dr inkin g 
tea-ate of iron. 

To make tea to perfection, boiling water must be poured on the leaves 
directly it boils. Water which has been boiling more than five minutes, oi 
which has previously boiled, should on no account be used. K the water does 
not boU, or if it be allowed to overboil, the leaves of the tea wiU be only half ■ 
opened and the tea itself will be quite spoiled. The water should be allowed to 
remain on the leaves from ten to fifteen minutes. 

A Chinese being interviewed for the Cook says: Diink your tea plain. 
Don't add milk or sugar. Tea- brokers and tea-tasters never do; epicures nevei 
do; the Chinese never do. Milk contains fibrin, albumen or some other stuff, 
and the tea a delicate amount of tannin. Mixing the two makes the liquid 
tm*bid. This turbidity, if I remember the cylopaedia aright, is tannate of fibrin, 
or leather. People who put mDi in tea are therefore drinking boots and shoes 
in mild disguise 

ICED TEA. 

Is now served to a considerable extent during the summer months. It is oi 
course used without milk, and the addition of sugar serves only to destroy the 
finer tea flavor. It may be prepared some hours in advance, and should be 
made stronger than when served hot. It is bottled and placed in the ice-chest 
till required. Use the black or green teas, or both, mixed, as fancied. 

CHOCOLATE. 

Allow hal^ a cupful of grated chocolate to a pint of water and a pint of milk. 
Rub the chocolate smooth in a little cold water, and stir into the boiling water. 
Boil twenty minutes, add the milk and boil ten minutes more, stirring it often. 
Sweeten to your taste. 

The French put two cupfuls of boiling water to each cupful of chocolate. 



400 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 

THey throw in the chocolate just as the water commences to boil. Stir it with 
a spoon as soon as it boUs up, add two cupfuls of good milk, and when it has 
boiled sufficiently, serve with a spoonful of thick whipped cream with each cup. 

COCOA. 

Six tablespoonf uls of cocoa to each pint of water, as much milk as water, 
sugar to taste. Rub cocoa smooth in a httle cold water; have ready on the fire 
a pint of boiling water; stir in grated cocoa paste. Boil twenty minutes, add 
milk and boil five minutes more, stirring often. Sweeten in cups so as to suit 
different tastes, 

BUTTERMILK AS A DRINK. 

Bufctermilk, so generally regarded as a waste product, has latterly been com- 
ing somewhat into vogue, not only as a nutrient, but as a therapeutic agent, 
and in an editorial article the Canada Lancet, some time ago, highly extolled 
its virtues. Buttermilk may be roughly described as milk which has lost most 
of its fat and a small percentage of casein, and which has become sour by fer- 
mentation. Long experience has demonstrated it to be an agent of superior 
digestibility. It is, indeed, a true milk peptone — that is, milk already partially 
digested, the coagulation of the coagulable portion beiug loose and flaky, and not 
of that firm indigestible nature which is the result of the action of the gastric 
juice upon sweet cow's milk. It resembles koumiss in its nature, and, with the 
exception of that article, it is the most grateful, refreshing, and digestible of 
the products of milk. It is a decided laxative to the bowels, a fact which must 
be borne in mind in the treatment of typhoid fever, and which may be turned 
to advantage in the treatment of habitual constipation. It is a diuretic, and 
may be prescribed with advantage in some kidney troubles. Owing to its 
acidity, combined with its laxative properties, it is believed to exercise a general 
impression on the hver. It is weU adapted to many cases where it is customary 
to recommend hme water and milk. It is invaluable in the treatment of dia- 
betes, either exclusively, or alternating with skimmed milk. In some cases of 
gastric ulcer and cancer of the stomach, it is the only food that can be retained. 

— Medical Journal. 

CURRANT WINE. No. i. 

The currants should be quite ripe. Stem, mash and strain them, adding a 

half pint of water and less than a pound of sugar to a quart of the mashed 

fruit. Stir well up together, and pour into a clean cask, leaving the bung-hole 

open, or covered with a piece of lace. It should stand for a month to ferment, 
27 



COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 40l 

when it will be ready for bottling; just before bottling you may add a small 
quantity of brandy or whiskey.^ 

CURRANT WINE. No. 2. 
To each quart of currant juice, add two quarts of soft water and three pounds 
of brown sugar. Put into a jug or small keg, leaving the top open until fer- 
mentation ceases, and it looks clear. Draw off and cork tightly. 

— Long Island recipe. 

BLACKBERRY WINE. No. i. 
Cover your blackberries with cold water; crush the berries well with a wooden 
masher; let them stand twenty-four hours; then strain, and to one gallon of 
juice put three pounds of common brown sugar; put into wide-mouthed jars for 
several days, carefully skimming off the scum that will rise to the top; put in 
several sheets of brown paper, and let them remain in it three days; then skim 
again, and pour through a funnel into your cask. There let it remain undis- 
turbed till March; then strain again, and bottle. These directions, if carefully 
followed out, will insure you excellent wine. 

— Ordfige County recipe. 

BLACKBERRY WINE. No. 2. 

Berries should be ripe and plump. Put into a large wood or stone vessel 
with a tap; pour on sufficient boiling water to cover them; when cool enough 
to bear your hand, bruise weU until all the berries are broken; cover up, let 
stand until berries begin to rise to' top, which will occur in three or four days. 
Then draw off the clear juice in another vessel, and add. one pound of sugar to 
every ten quarts of the hquor, and stir thoroughly. Let stand six to ten days 
in first vessel with top; then draw off through a jelly bag, Steep four ounces 
of isinglass in a pint of wihe for twelve hours; boil it over a slow fire till all 
dissolved, then place dissolved isinglass in a gallon of blackberry juice, give them 
a boil together, and pour all into the vessel. Let stand a few days to ferment 
and settle, draw off and keep in a cool place. Other berry wines may be made, 
in the same manner. 

GRAPE WINE. 
Mash the grapes and strain them through a cloth; put the skins in a tub after 
squeezing them, with barely enough water to cover them; strain the juice thus 
obtained into the first portion; put three pounds of sugar to one gallon of the 
mixture; let it stand in an open tub to ferment, covered with a cloth, for a 
period of from three to seven days; skim off what rises every morning. Put 



402 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 

the juice in a cask, and leave it open for twenty-four hours; then bung it up, 
and put clay over the bung to keep the air out. Let your wine remain in the 
cask until March, when it should be drawn off and bottled. 

FLORIDA ORANGE WINE. 

"Wipe the oranges with a wet cloth, peel off the yellow rind very thin, squeeze 
the oranges, and strain the juice through a hair sieve; msasure the juice after 
it is strained, and for each gallon allow three pounds of granulated sugar, the 
white and shell of one egg,. and one-third of a gallon of cold water; put the sugar, 
the white and shell of the egg (crushed small) and the water over the fire, and stir 
them every two minutes until the eggs begins to harden; then boil the synip 
until it looks clear under the froth of Q%!g which vdU form on the surface; strain 
the syrup, pour it upon the orange rind, and let it stand over night; then next 
add the orange-juice and again let it stand over night; strain it the second day, 
and put it into a tight cask with a small cake of compressed yeast to about ten 
gallons of wine, and leave the bung out of the cask until the wine ceases to 
ferment; the hissing noise continues as long as fermentation is in progress; when 
fermentation ceases, close the cask by driving in the bung, and let the wine 
stand about nine months before bottling it; three months after it is bottled, it 
can be used, A glass of brandy added to each gallon of wine after fermentation 
ceases is generally considered an improvement. 

There are seasons of the year when Florida oranges by the box are very 
cheap, and this fine wine can be made at a small expense. 

METHELIN, OR HONEY WINE. 

This is a very ancient and popular drink in the north of Etuope. To some 
new honey, strained, add spring water; put a whole egg into it; boil this hquor 
till the egg swims above the hquor; strain, pour it in a cask. To every fifteen 
gallons add two ounces of white Jamaica ginger, bruised, one ounce of cloves 
and mace, one and a half ounces of cinnamon, all bruised together, and tied up 
in a musUn bag; accelerate the fermentation with yeast; when worked suffi- 
ciently, bung up; in six weeks draw off into bottles. 

Another Mead. — Boil the combs, from which the honey has been drained, with 
sufficient water to make a tolerably sweet hquor; ferment this wth yeast, and 
proceed as per previous formula. 

Sack Mead is made by adding a handful of hops and sufficient brandy to the 
comb liquor. 



COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 4U3 

BLACK CURRANT WINE. 

Four quarts of whiskey, four quarts of black currants; four pounds of brown 
or white sugar, one tablespoonful of cloves; one tablespoonful of cirmamon. 

Crush the currants, and let them stand in the whiskey with the spices for 
three weeks; then strain and add the sugar; set away again for three weeks 
longer; then strain and bottle. 

RAISIN WINE. 
Take tv/o pounds of raisins, seed and chop them, a lemon, a pound of white 
sugar, and about two gallons of boiUng water. Pour into a stone jar, and stir 
daily for six or eight days. Strain, bottle, and put in a cool place for ten days 
or so, when the wine will be ready for use. 

CHERRY BOUNCE. 

To one gallon of wild cherries add enough good whiskey to cover the fruit. 
Let soak two or three weeks and then drain ofif the hquor. Mash the cherriea 
^vithout breaking the stones and strain through a jelly -bag; add this liquor to 
that aheady drained off. Make a S3TTip with a gill of water and a pound of 
white sugar to every two quarts of hquor thus prepared; stir in well and bottle, 
and tightly cork. A common way of making cherry bounce is to put wild 
cherries and whiskey together in a jug and use the hquor as wanted. 

BLACKBERRY CORDIAL. 

Warm and squeeze the berries; add to one pint of juice one pound of white 
sugar, one-half ounce of powdered cinnamon, one- fourth ounce of mace, two 
teaspoonfuls of cloves. Boil all together for one-fourth of an hour; strain the 
syrup, and to each pint add a glass of French brandy. Two or three doses of a 
tablespoonful or less will check any slight diarrhoea. When the attack is 
violent, give a tablespoonful after each discharge, until the complaint is in 
subjection. It will arrest dysentery if given in season, and is a pleasant and 
safe remedy. Excellent for children when teething, 

HOP BEER. 
Take five quarts of water, six ounces of hops, boil it three hours; then strain 
the liquor, add to it five quarts of water, four ounces of biiiised ginger root, boU 
this again twenty minutes, strain and add four pounds of sugar. When luke- 
warm, put in a pint of yeast. Let it ferment; in twenty-four hours it vidll be 
ready for bottling. 



404 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 

GINGER BEER. 

Put into a kettle two ounces of powdered ginger root (or more if it is not 
very strong), half an ounce of cream of tartar, two large lemons, cut in slices, 
two pounds of broken loaf sugar, and two gallons of soft boiling water. Simmer 
them over a slow fire for half an hour. When the liquor is nearly cold, stir into 
it a large tablespoonful of the best yeast. After it has fermented, which will 
be in about twenty-four hours, bottle for use. 

SPRUCE BEER. 

Allow an ounce of hops and a spoonful of ginger to a gallon of water. When 
weU boiled, strain it, and put in a. pint of molasses, or a pound of brown sugar, 
and half an ounce or less of the essence of spruce; when cool, add a teacupful 
of yeast, and put into a clean, tight cask, and let it ferment for a day or two, 
then bottle it for use. You can boil the sprigs of spruce fir in place of the 
essence. 

ROMAN PUNCH. No. i. 

Grate the yellow rind of four lemons and two oranges upon two pounds of 
loaf sugar. Squeeze the juice of the lemons and oranges; cover the juice and 
let it stand until the next day. Strain it through a sieve, mix with the sugar; 
add a bottle of champagne and the whites of eight eggs beaten to a stiff froth. 
It may be frozen or not, as desired. For winter use snow instead of ice. 

ROMAN PUNCH. No. 2. 

Make two quarts of lemonade, rich with piue juice lemon fruit; add one 
tablespoonful of extract of lemon. Work well, and freeze; just before serving, 
add for each quart of ice half a pint of brandy and half a pint of Jamaica rum. 
Mix well and serve in high glasses, as this makes what is called a semi or half- 
ice. It is usually served at dinners as a coup de milieu. 

DELICIOUS JUNKET. 

Take two quarts of new milk, warm it on the stove to about blood-heat; 
pour it into a glass or china bowl, and stir into it two tablespoonfuls of Grosse & 
Blackwell's prepared rennet, two tablespoonfuls of powdered loaf sugar, and a 
small wine-glassful of pale brandy. Let it stand till cold and eat with sugar and 
rich cream. Half the quantity can be made. 

RASPBERRY SHRUB. 
One quart of raspberry juice, half a pound of loaf sugar, dissolved, a pint of 
Jamaica rum, or part rum and brandy. Mix thoroughly. Bottle for use. 



^COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. ¥^5 

SASSAFRAS MEAD. 
Mix gradually with two quarts of boiling water three pounds and a half of 
the best brown sugar, a pint and a half of good West India molasses, and a 
quarter of a pound of tartaric acid. Stir it well, and when cool, strain it into 
a large jug or pan, then mix in a teaspoonful (not more) of essence of sassafras. 
Transfer it to clean bottles, (it will fill about half a dozen,) cork it tightly, and 
keep it in a cool place. It will be fit for use next day. Put into a box or boxes 
a quarter of a pound of carbonate of soda, to use with it. To prepare a glass of 
sassafras mead for drinking, put a large tablespoonful of the mead into a half 
tumbler full of ice-water, stir into it a half teaspoonful of the soda, and it will 
immediately foam up to the top. 

Sassafras mead will be found a cheap, wholesome, and pleasant beverage for 
iv^arm weather. The essence of sassafras, tartaric acid and carbonate of soda, 
<an, of course, all be,pbtaincd at the druggist's. 

CREAM SODA WITHOUT THE FOUNTAIN. 

Coffee-sugar, four pounds; three pints of water, three nutmegs, grated, the 
whites of ten eggs, well -beaten, gum arable, one ounce; twenty drops of oil of 
lemon, or extract equal to that amount. By using oils of other fruits, you can 
make as many flavorsi from this as you desire. Mix all, and place over a geaitle 
fire, and stir well about thirty minutes; remove from the fire and strain, and 
divide into two parts; into one-half put eight ounces of bi -carbonate of soda, into 
the other half put six ounces of tartaric acid. Shake well, and when cold they 
are ready for use by pouring three or four spoonfuls from both parts into sepa- 
rate glasses, each one-third full of water. Stir each and pour together, and you 
have a nice glass of cream soda which you can drink at your leisure, as the gum 
and eggs hold the gas. 

WINE WHEY. 

Sweeten one pint of milk to taste, and when boiling, throw in two wine- 
glasses of sherry; when the curd forms, strain the whey through a muslin bag 
into tumblers. 

LEMON SYRUP. 

Take the juice of twelve lemons; grate the lind of six in it, let it standover 
night; then take six pounds of white sugar, and make a thick syrup. When it 
is quite cool, strain the juice into it, and squeeze as much oil from the grated 
rind as will suit the taste. Put in bottles, securely corked, for future use, A 
tablespoonful in a goblet of water will make a delicious drink on a hot day. 



406 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 

FOR A SUMMER DRAUGHT. 
The juice of one lemon, a tumblerful of cold water, pounded sugar to taste, 
half a small teaspoonful of carbonate of soda. Squeeze the juice from the 
lemon; strain, and add it to the water, with sufficient pounded sugar to sweeten 
the whole nicely. When well-mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and drink while 
the mixture is in an effervescing state. 

NOYEAU CORDIAL, 
To one gallon of proof spirit add three pounds of loaf sugar and a table- 
spoonful of extract of almonds. Mix weU together, and allow to stand forty- 
eight hours, covered closely; now strain through thick flannel, and bottle. This 
hquor will be much improved by adding half a pint of apricot or peach juice. 

EGG NOGG. 
Beat the yellows of twelve eggs very light, stir in as much white sugar as 
they will dissolve, pour in gradually one glass of brandy to cook the eggs, one 
glass of old whiskey, one gxated nutmeg, and three pints of rich milk. Beat the 
whites to a froth and stir in last. 

EGG FLIP, OR MULLED ALE. 
Boil one quart of good ale, with some nutmeg; beat up six eggs, and mix 
them with a httle cold ale; then pour the hot ale to it, and pour it back and forth 
several times to prevent its curdling; warm, and stir it till sufficiently thick; add 
a piece of butter or a glass of brandy, and serve it with dry toast. 

MILK PUNCH. 
One pint of milk made very sweet; a wine-glassful of brandy or rum, well- 
stirred together; grate a httle nutmeg over the top of the glasses. Serve with a 
straw in each glass. 

FINE MILK PUNCH. 

Pare off the yellow rind of fom" lai-ge lemons, and steep it for twentyfom 
hours in a quart of brandy or rum. Then mix with it the juice of the lemons, 
a pound and a half of loaf-sugar, two grated nutmegs, and a quart of water. 
Add a quart of rich unskimmed milk, made boiling hot, and strain the whole 
through a jelly bag. You may either use it as soon as it is cold, or make a larger 
quantity (in the above proportions), and bottle it. It will keep several months. 



COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 407 

TO MAKE HOT PUNCH. 

Half a pint of rum, half a pint of brandy, quarter of a pound of sugar, one 
large lemon, half a teaspoonful of nutmeg, one pint of boiling water. 

Kub the sugar over the lemon until it has absorbed all the yeUow part of the 
Bkin, then put the sugar into a punch-bowl; add the lemon-juice (free from pips), 
and mix these two ingredients, well together. Pour over them the boiling water, 
stir well together, add the rum, brandy, and nutmeg; mix thoroughly and the 
punch wiU be ready to serve. It is very important in making good punch that 
all the ingredients are thoroughly incorporated; and to insure success, the pro- 
cesses of mixing must be diligently attended to. (This is an old-style punch.) 

LEMONADE. 
Three lemons to a pint of water makes strong lemonade; sweeten to your 
taste. 

STRAWBERRY WATER. 

Take one cupful of ripe hulled berries; crush with a wooden spoon, mixing 
with the mass a quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar and half a pint of cold 
water. Pour the mixture into a fine sieve, rub through and filter till clear; a<jd 
the strained juice of one lemon and one and a half pints of cold water, mix 
thoroughly, and set in ice-chest till wanted. 

This makes a nice, cool drink on a warm day, and easily to be made in straw- 
berry season. 

STRAWBERRY AND RASPBERRY SYRUP. 

Mash the fresh fruit, express the juice, and to each quart add three and a 
half pounds of granulated sugar. The juice, heated to 180° Fahrenheit, and 
strained or filtered previous to dissolving the sugar, will keep for an indefinite 
time, canned hot in glass jars. 

The juice of soft fruits is best when allowed to drop therefrom by its own 
weight, lightly mash the fruit and then suspend in a cloth, allowing the juice to 
drop in a vessel beneath. Many housekeepers, after the bottles and jars are 
thoroughly washed and dried, smoke them with sulphur in this way: Take a 
piece of wire and bend it around a small piece of brimstone the size of a bean; 
set the brimstone on fire, put it in the jar or bottle, bending the other end over 
the mouth of the vessel, and cover with a cork; after the brimstone has bxrrned 
away, fill the vessel with the syrup or preserves and cover tightly. There is no 
sulphurous taste left by the process. 



4o8 COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES. 

KOUMISS. 
Koumiss is prepared by dissolving four ounces of white sugar in one gallon 
of skimmed milk, and placing in bottles of the capacity of one quart; add two 
ounces of bakers' yeast, or a cake of compressed yeast to each bottle. Cork and 
tie securely, set in a warm place until fermentation is well under way, and lay 
the bottles on their sides in a cool cellar. In three days, fermentation will have 
progressed sufficiently to permit the koumiss to be in good condition. 

PINEAPPLE VINEGAR. 

Cover sliced pine apples with pure cider vinegar; let them stand three or four 
days, then mash and strain through a cloth as long as it runs clear; to every 
three quarts of juice add five pounds of sugar. 

Boil it all together about ten minutes, skim carefully until nothing rises to 
the surface, take from the fire; when cool, bottle it. Blackberries and rasp- 
berries, and, in fact, any kind of highly flavored fruit, is fine; a tablespoonful 
in a glass of ice-cold water, to drink in warm weather. 

RASPBERRY VINEGAR. No. I. 

Put a quart of raspberries into a suitable dish, pour over them a quart of 
good vinegar, let it stand twenty-four hours, then strain through a flannel bag, 
and pour this liquor on another quart of berries; do this for three or four days 
successively, and strain it; make it very sweet with loaf sugar; bottle, and seal it. 

RASPBERRY VINEGAR. No. 2. 
Turn over a quart of ripe raspberries, mashed, a quart of good cider vinegar, 
add one pound of white sugar, mix well, then let stand in the sun fom- hours. 
Strain it, squeeze out the juice, and put in a pint of good brandy. Seal it up 
in bottles, air tight, and lay them on their sides in the cellar; cover them vdth 
sawdust. When used, pour two tablespoonfuls to a tumblerful of ice-water. 
Fine. 

HOME-MADE TABLE VINEGAR. 
Put in an open cask four gallons of warm rain water, one gallon of common 
molasses, and two quarts of yeast; cover the top with thin musUn and leave it 
in the sun, covering it up at night and when it rains. In three or four weeks it 
will be good vinegar. If cider can be used in place of rain-water the vinegar 
win make much sooner — will not take over a week to make a very sharp vinegar. 
Excellent, for pickling purposes. 



COFFEE, TEA, BEVERAGES, 409 

VERY STRONG TABLE VINEGAR. 

Take two gallons of good cider and thoroughly mix it with two pounds of 

new honey, pour into your cask or bottle, and let it stand from four to six 

months, when you will have vinegar so strong that it cannot be used at table 

without diluting with wa.ter. It is the best ever procured for pickling purposes. 

PINEAPPLE-ADE. 
Pare and slice some very ripe pineapples; then cut the slices into small pieces. 
Put them with all their juice into a large pitcher, and sprinkle among them 
plenty of powdered white sugar. Pour on boiling water, allowing a small half 
pint to each pineapple. Cover the pitcher, and let it stand till quite cool, oc- 
casionally pressing down the pineapple with a spoon. Then set the pitcher foi 
a while in ice. Lastly, strain the infusion into another vessel, and transfer it 
to tumblers, putting into each glass some more sugar and a bit of ice. This 
beverage will be found delicious. 

SEIDLITZ POWDERS. 

Fold in a white paper a mixture of one drachm of RocheUe salts and twenty- 
five grains of carbonate of soda, in a blue paper twenty grains of tartaric 
acid. They should all be pulverized very finely. Put the contents of the white' 
paper into a tumbler, hot quite half full of cold water, and stir it till dissolved. 
Then put the mixture from the blue paper into another tumbler with the same 
quantity of water, and stir that also. When the powders are dissolved in both 
tumblers, pour the first into the other, and it wiU effervesce immediately. Drink 
it quickly, while foaming. 

INEXPENSIVE DRINK. 
A very nice, cheap drink which may take the place of lemonade, and be found 
fuUy as healthful, is made with one cupful of pure cider vinegar, half a cupful 
of good molasses, put into one quart pitcher of ice- water. A tablespoonful of 
ground ginger added makes a healthful beverage. 



Dishes for invalids should be served in the daintiest and most attractive way; 
never send more than a supply for one meal; the same dish too freqi'ently set 
before an invalid often causes a distaste, when perhaps a change would tempt 
the appetite. 

When prepanng dishes where milk is used, the condition of the patient should 
be considered. Long cooking hardens the albumen and makes the milk very 
constipating; then, if the patient should be already constipated, care should be 
taken not to heat the milk above the boihng point. 

The seasoning of food for the sick should be varied according to the condition 
of the patient; one recovering from illness can partake of a Httle piece of roast 
mutton, chicken, rabbit, game, fish, simply dressed, and simple puddings are all 
hght food and easily digested. A mutton chop, nicely cut, trimmed and broiled, 
is a dish that is often inviting to an invahd. As a rule, an invalid wiU be more 
hkely ,to enjoy any preparation sent to him if it is served in small, delicate 
pieces. As there are so many small, dainty dishes that can be niade for this 
purpose, it seems useless to tiy to more than give a small variety of them. 
Pudding can be made of prepared barley, or tapioca, well-soaked before boiling, 
with an egg added, and a change can be made of hght puddings by mixing up 
some stewed fruit vdth the.puddings before baking; a bread pudding from stale 
bread-crumbs, and a tiny cup-custard, boiled in a small basin or cup; also various 
drinks, such as milk punch, wine, whey, apple-toddy, and various other nourish- 
ing drinks 

BEEFSTEAK AND MUTTON CHOPS. 
Select the tenderest cuts, and broil over a clear, hot fire. Let the steak be 
rare, the chops well done. Salt and pepper; lay between two hot plates three 
minutes, and serve to your patient. If he is very weak, do not let him swallow 
anything except the juice, when he has chewed the meat well. The essence of 
rare beef, roasted or broiled, thus expressed, is considered by some physicians to 
be more strengthening than beef tea prepared in the usual mannei'. 



FOR THE SICK. 4 m 

BEEF TEA. 
One pound of lean beef, cut into small pieces. Put into a glass canning- jar 
without a drop of water; cover tightly, and set in a pot of cold water. Heat 
gradually to a boil, and continue this steadily for three or four hours, until the 
meat is like white rags, and the juice all drawn out. Season with salt to taste, 
and when cold, skim. 

VEAL OR MUTTON BROTH. 

Take a scrag-end of mutton (two pounds), put it in a sauce-pan, with two 
quarts of cold water, and an ounce of pearl barley or rice. When it is coming 
to a boU, skim it well, then add half a teaspoonful of salt; let it boil until half 
reduced, then strain it, and take off all the fat, and it is ready for use. This is 
excellent for an invahd. If vegetables are liked in this broth, take one turnip, 
one carrot, and one onion, cut them in shreds, and boil them in the broth half 
an hour. In that case, the barley may be served with the vegetables in broth. 

CHICKEN BROTH. 
Make the same as mutton or beef broth. Boil the chicken slowly, putting 
on just enough water to cover it well, watching it closely that it does not boil 
down too much. When the chicken is tender, season with salt and a very little 
pepper. The yolk of an egg beaten light and added, is very nourishing 

OATMEAL GRUEL. 

Put four tablespoonfuls of the best grits (oatmeal coarsely ground) into a 
pint of boiling water. Let it boil gently, and stir it often, till it becomes as thick 
as you wish it. Then strain it, and add to it while warm, butter, wine, nutmeg, 
or whatever is thought proper to flavor it. Salt to taste. 

If you make the gruel of fine oatmeal, sift it, mix it first to a thick batter 
with a httle cold water, and then put it into the sauce-pan of boiling water. 
Stir it all the time it is boiling, lifting the spoon gently up and down, and letting 
the gruel fall slowly back again into the pan. 

CORN-MEAL GRUEL. 
Two tablespoonfuls of fine Indian meal, mixed smooth with cold water and a 
salt-spoonful of salt; add one quart of boiling water, and cook twenty minutes. 
Stir it frequently, and if it becomes too thick use boiling water to thin it. If the 
stomach is not too weak, a tablespoonful of cream may be used to cool it. 
Some like it sweetened and others hke it plain. For very sick persons, let it 
settle, pour off the top, and give without other seasoning. For convalescents, 
toast a piece of bread as nicely as possible, and put it in the gruel with a table- 



412 fOR THE SICK. 

spoonful of nice sweet cream, and a little ginger and sugar. This should be 
used only when a Laxative is allowed. 

EGG GRUEL. 

Beat the yolk of an egg with one tablespoonful of sugar; pour one teacupful 
of boiling water on it; add the white of an q%^, beaten to a froth, vrith any 
seasoning or spice desired. Take warm. 

MILK PORRIDGE. 
The same as arrowroot, excepting it should be all milk, and thickened with 
a scant tablespoonful of sifted flour; let -it boil five minutes, stirring it con- 
tinually, add a little cold milk, and give it one boil up, and it is ready for use. 

ARROWROOT MILK PORRIDGE. 
One large cupful of fresh milk, new if you can get it; one cupful of boiling 
water; one teaspoonful of arrowroot, wet to a paste with cold water; two tea- 
spoonfuls of white sugar; a pinch of salt. Put the sugar into the milk, the salt 
into the boiling water, which should be poured into a farina-kettle. Add the 
wet arrowroot, and boil, stirring constantly until it is clear; put in the milk, and 
cook ten minutes, stirring often. Give while warm, adding hot milk should it 
be thicker than gruel. 

ARROWROOT BLANC MANGE. 
One large cupful of belling milk, one even tablespoonful of arrovrroot rubbed 
to a paste with cold water, two teaspoonfuls of white sugar, a pinch of salt; 
flavor with rose-water. Proceed as in the foregoing recipes, Boiling and stirring 
eight minutes. Turn into a wet mold, and when firm, serve with creani and 
powderejl sugar. 

TAPIOCA JELLY. 
Soak a cupful of tapioca in a quart of cold water, after washing it thoroughly 
two or three times; after soaking three or four hours, simmer it in a stew-pan 
until it becomes quite clear, stirring often; add the juice of a lemon, and a lit- 
tle of the grated peel, also a pinch of salt. Sweeten to taste. Wine can be 
substituted for lemon, if liked. 

SLIPPERY-ELM BARK TEA. 
Break the bark into bits, pour boiling water over it, cover, and let it infuse 
until cold. Sweeten, ice, and take for summer disorders, or add lemon juice and 
drink for a bad cold. 



FOR THE SICK. 4^3 

FLAX-SEED TEA. 

Upon an ounce of unb raised flax-seed and a v little pulverized liquorice-root 
pour a pint of boiling (soft or rain) water; and place the vessel containing these 
ingredients near, but not on, the fire for four hours. Strain through a iineis 
cloth. Make it fresh every day. An excellent drinlc in fever accompanied by a 
cough. 

FLAX-SEED LEMONADE. 

To a large tablespoonful of flax-seed, allow a tumbler and a half of cold water. 
Boil them together till the liquid becomes very sticky. Then strain it hot over 
a quarter of a pound of pulverized sugar, and an ounce of pulverized gum arabic. 
Stir it till quite dissolved, and squeeze into it the juice of a lemon. 

This mixtiu-e has frequently been found an efficacious remedy foi- a cold, 
taking a wine-glass of it as often as the cough is troublesome. 

TAMARIND WATER. 

Put tamarinds into a pitcher or tumbler till it is one- third full; then fill -up 
with cold water, cover it, and let it infuse for a quarter of an horn' or more. 

Currant jelly or cranberry juice mixed with water makes a pleasant drink 
for an invahd. 

SAGO JELLY. 

Made the same as tapioca. -If seasoning is not advisable, the sago may be 
boiled m milk, instead of water, and eaten plain. 

Rice jelly made the same, using only half as much rice as sago. 

ARROWROOT WINE JELLY 

One cupful of boihng water, one scant tablespoonful of aiTOwroot; mix with 
a Httle cold water; one tablespoonful of sugar, a pinch of salt, one tablespoonful 
of brandy, or three tablespoonfuls of wine. Excellent for a sick person v;dthout 
fever. 

HOMINY. 

Put to soak one pint of hominy in two and one-half pints of boiling water 
over night, in a tin vessel with a tight cover; in the morning add one-half pint 
of sweet milk, and a little salt. Place on a brisk fire in a kettle of boiling water, 
the tin vessel containing the hominy; let boU one-half hour. 

Cracked wheat, oatmeal, mushj are all good food for the sick. 



-♦M FOR THE SICK. 

CHICKEN JELLY. 
Cook a chicken in enough water to httle more than cover it; let it stew gently 
until the meat drops from the bones, and the broth is reduced to about a pint; 
season it to taste, with a little salt and pepper. Strain and press, first through 
a colander, then through a coarse cloth. Set it over the fire again, and cook a 
few minutes longer. Turn it into an earthen vegetable dish to harden; set it on 
the ice in the refrigerator. Eat cold in slices. Nice made into sandwiches, with 
ihw slices of bread, lightly spread with butter. 

BOILED RICE. 

Boil half a cupful of rice in just enough water to cover it, with half a tea 
spoonful of salt; when the water has boiled nearly out and the rice begins to look 
soft and dry, turn over it a cupful of milk, and let it simmer until the rice is 
done and nearly dry; take from the fire and beat in a well-beaten egg. Eat it 
warm with cream and sugar. Flavor to taste. 

CUP PUDDING. 

Take one tablespoonful of flour, one egg; mix with cold milk and a pinch of 
salt to a batter. Boil fifteen minutes in a buttered cup. Eat with sauce, fruit, 
or plain sugar 

TAPIOCA CUP PUDDING. 

This is very light and delicate for invalids. An even tablespoonful of tapioca, 
soaked for two hours in nearly a cup of new milk; stir into this the yolk of a 
fresh egg, a little sugar, a grain of salt, and bake it in a cup for iifteen minutes. 
A httle jelly may be eaten with it. 

BAKED APPLES. 

Get nice fruit, a little tart and juicy, but not sour; clean them nicely, and 
bake in a moderate oven — regulated so as to have them done in about an hour; 
when the skin cracks and the pulp breaks through in every direction they are 
done and ready to take out. Serve with white sugar sprinkled over them. 

SOFT TOAST. 

Toast well, but not too brown, two thin slices of stale bread; put them on a 
■warm plate, sprinkle with a pinch of salt, and pour upon them some boiling 
water; quickly cover with another dish of the same size, and drain off the water. 
Put a very small bit of butter on the toast and serve at once while hot. 



FOR THE SICK. 4i5 

IRISH MOSS BLANC MANGE. 

A small handful of moss (to be purchased at any drug store); wash it very 
carefully, and put it in one quart of milk on the fire. Let the milk simmer for 
about twenty minutes, or until the moss begins to dissolve. Then remove from 
the fire and strain through a fine sieve. Add two tablespoonf uls of sugar and 
half a teaspoonf ul of vacdQla flavoring. Put away to harden in cups or molds, 
and serve with sugar and cream. 

A delicate dish for an invalid. 

EGG TOAST 

Bro.wn a slice of bread nicely over the coals, dip it in hot water shghtly salted, 
butter it, and lay on the top an egg that has been broken into boiling water, and 
cooked until the white has hardened; season the egg with a bit of butter and' a 
crumb of salt. 

The best way to cook eggs for an invalid is to drop them, or else pour boiling 
water over the egg in the shell and let it stand for a few minutes on the back of 
the stove 

OYSTER TOAST. 

Make a nice slice of dry toast, butter it and lay it on a hot dish. Put six 
oysters, half a teacupful of their own liquor, and half a cupful of milk, into a 
tin cup or basin, and boil one minute. Season with a little butter, pepper and 
salt, then pour over the toast and serve. 

MULLED JELLY. 
Take one tablespoonf ul of currant or grape jelly; beat with it the white of 
one egg and a teaspoonful of sugar; pour on it a teacupful of boihng water, and 
break in a sUce of dry toast or two crackers. 

CUP CUSTARD. 
Break into a coflfee-cup an egg, put in two teaspoonfuls of sugar, beat it up 
ujioroughly, a pinch of salt and a pinch of grated nutmeg; fill up the cup with 
good sweet milk; turn it into another cup, well buttered, and set it in a pan of 
boiling water, reaching nearly to the top of the cup. Set in the oven, and when 
the custard is set, it is done. Eat cold 

CLAM BROTH. 
Select twelve small, hardshell clams, drain them, and chop them fine; add 
half a pint of clam juice or hot water, a pinch of cayenne, and a walnut of 



4i6 FOR THE SICK, 

buttez-; simmer thirty minutes; add a gill of boiled milk, strain, and serve. 
This is an excellent broth for weak stomachs. 

MILK OR CREAM CODFISH. 
This dish will often relish when a person is recovering from sickness, when 
nothing else would. Pick up a large tablespoonful of salt codfish very fine; 
freshen it considerably by placing it over the fire in a basin, covering it with 
cold water as it comes to a boil; turn off the water and freshen again if very 
salt, then turn off the water until dry, and pour over half a cupful of milk or 
thin cream; add a bit of butter, a sprinkle of pepper, and a thickening made of 
one teaspoonful of flour or corn-starch, wet up with a little milk; when this boils 
up, turn over a slice of dipped toast. 

CRACKER PANADA. 

Break in pieces three or fom: hard crackers that are baked quite brown, and 
let them boil fifteen. minutes in one quart of water; then remove from the fire, 
let them stand three or four minutes, strain off the liquor through a fine wire 
sieve, and season it with sugar. 

This is a nourishing beverage for infants that are teething, and with the 
addition of a little wine and nutmeg, is often prescribed for invalids recovering 
from a fever. 

BREAD PANADA 

Put three gills of water and one tablespoonful of white sugar on the fire, 
and just before it boUs add two tablespoonfuls of the crumbs of stale white 
bread; stir it well, and let it boil three or four minutes; then add one glass of 
white wine, a grated lemon and a httle nutmeg; let it boil up once, then remove 
it from the fire, and keep it closely covered until it is wanted for use. 

SLIPPERY-ELM TEA. 
Put a teaspoonful of powdered shppery-elm into a tmnbler, pour cold water 
upon it, and season with lemon and sugar. 

TOAST WATER, OR CRUST COFFEE. 

Take stale pieces of crusts of bread, the end pieces of the loaf; toast them a 
nice, dark brown, care to be taken that they do not bvuoi in the least, as that 
affects the flavor. Put the browned crusts into a large milk pitcher, and poui 
enough boiling water over to cover them; cover the pitcher closely, and let steep 
until cold. Strain, and sweeten to taste; put a piece of ice in each glass. 

This is also good, drank warm with cream and sugar, similar to coffee. 
31 



FOR THE SICK. 4^7 

PLAIN MILK TOAST. 
Cut a thin slice from a loaf of stale bread, toast it very quickly, sprinkle a 
little salt over it, and pour upon it three tablespoonf uls of boiling milk or cream. 
Crackers split and toasted in this manner, are often very grateful to an invalid. 

LINSEED TEA. 

Put one tablespoonful of linseed into a stew-pan with half a pint of cold 
water; place the stew-pan over a moderate fire, and, when the water is quite 
warm, pour it off, and add to the linseed half a pint of fresh cold water; then 
let the whole boil three or four minutes; season it with lemon and sugar 

POWDERS FOR CHILDREN. 

A very excellent carminative powder for flatulent infants may be kept in thtj 
bouse, and employed with advantage whenever the child is in pain or grined, 
flropping five grains of oU of anise-seed and t^^ro of peppermint on half an ounce 
of lump sugar, and rubbing it in a mortar, with a drachm of magnesia, mto a 
£ne powder. A small quantity of this may be given in a little water ai any 
time, and always with benefit 

FOR CHILDREN TEETHING. 

Tie a quarter of a pound of wheat flour in a thick cloth, and boil it in one 
quart of water for three hours; then remove the cloth and expose the flour to 
the air or heat until it is hard and dry; grate from it, when wanted, one table- 
spoonful, which put into half a pint of new milk, and stir over the fire until it 
comes to a boil, when add a pinch of salt and a tablespoonful of cold water, and 
serve. This gruel is excellent for children afflicted with summer complaint. 

Or, brown a tablespoonful of flour in the oven or on top of the stove on a 
baking-tin; feed a few pinches at a time to a child, and it will often check a 
diarrhoea. The tincture of "kino"— of which from ten to thirty drops, mixed 
with a little sugar and water in a spoon, and given every two or three hours, is 
very efficacious and harmless — can be procured at almost any druggist's. 
Tablespoon doses of pm-e cider vinegar, and a pinch of salt, has cured when all 
else failed. 

BLACKBERRY CORDIAL. 

This recipe may be found under the head of " Coffee, Tea, Beverages." [t 
will be fovmd an excellent medicine for children teething and summer diseases. 



4«» FOR THE SICK. 

ACID DRINKS. 

1. Peel thirty large Malaga grapes, and pour half a pint of boiling water upon 
them; cover them closely, and let them steep until the water is cold. 

2. Pour half a pint of boiling water upon one tablespoonful of currant jelly, 
and stir until the jeUy is dissolved. 

3. Cranberries and barberries may be used in the same way to make very 
refreshing acid drinks for persons recovering from fevers. 

DRAUGHTS FOR THE FEET. 

Take a large leaf from the horseradish plant, and cut out the hard fibres that 
run through the leaf; place it on a hot shovel for a moment to soften it, fold it, 
and fasten it closely in the hoUow of the foot by a cloth bandage. 

Burdock-leaves, cabbage-leaves, and muUen-leaves, are used in the same 
maliher, to alleviate pain and promote perspiration. 

Garlics are also nxade for draughts by pomiding them, placing them on a hot 
tin plate for a moment to sweat them, and binding them closely to the hollow 
of the foot by a cloth bandsige. 

Draughts of onions, for infants, are made by roasting onions in hot ashes, 
and, when they are quite soft, peeling off the outside, mashing them, and apply- 
ing them on a cloth as usual 

POULTICES. 

A Bread and Milk Poultice.— Fnt a tablespoonful of the crumbs of stale 
bread into a gill of milk, and give the whole one boil up. Or, take stale bread- 
crumbs, pour over them boiling water and boil till soft, stirring well; take from 
the fire and gradually stir m a httle glycerine or sweet oil, so as to render the 
poultice phable when apphed. 

A Hop Poultice.— Boil one handful of dried hops in half a pint of water, 
until the half pint is reduced to a gill, then stu* into it enough Indian meal to 
thicken it. 

A Mustard Poultice.— Into one gill of boiUng water stir one tablespoonful of 
Indian meal; spread the paste thus made upon a cloth, and spread over the 
paste one teaspoonful of mustard flour. If you wish a mild poultice, use a tea- 
spoonful of mustard as it is prepared for the table, instead of the mustard flour. 

Equal parts of ground mustard and flour made into a paste with warm water, 
and spread between two pieces of muslin, form the indispensable mustard 
plaster. 

A Ginger Poultice. — This is made Uke a mustard poultice, using ground 



FOR THE SICK. 4.^,9 

ginger instead of mustard. A little vinegar is sometimes added to each of these 
poultices. 

A Stramonium Poultice. Stir one tablespoonful of Indian meal into a gill of 
boiling water, and add one tablespoonful of bruised stramonium seeds. 

Wormwood and Arnica are sometimes applied in poultices. Steep the herbs 
to half a pint of cold water, and when all their virtue is extracted stir in a little 
bran or rye-meal to thicken the liquid; the herbs must not be removed from the 
liquid. 

This is a useful application for sprains and bruises. 

Linseed Poultice — Take four ounces of powdered linseed, and gradually 
sprinkle it into a half pint of hot water. 

A REMEDY FOR BOILS. 

An excellent remedy for boils is -water of a temperature agreeable to the 
feelings of the patient. Apply wet linen to the part affected, and frequently 
renew or moisten it. It is said to be the most effectual remedy known. Take 
inwardly some good blood purifier. 

CURE FOR RINGWORMS. 
Yellow docic, root or leaves, steeped in vinegar, wiU cure the worst case ot 
lingworm. 



ytencb Mor&0 in Coofein^. 

Aspic — Savory jelly for cold dishes. 

Au gratin — Dishes prepared with sauce and crumbs, and baked. 

Bouchies — Very thin patties or cakes, as name indicates — mouthfuls. 

Baba — A peculiar, sweet French yeast cake. 

Bechamel— K rich, white sauce made with stock. 

Bisque — A white soup made of shell fish. 

To Blanch —To place any article on the fire till it boils, then plunge it in cold 
water; to whiten poultry, vegetables, etc. To remove the skin by immersing la 
boiling water. 

Bouillon — A clear soup, stronger than broth, yet not so strong as consommi^ 
which is " reduced" soup. 

Braise — Meat cooked in a closely covered stew-pan, so that it retains its own 
flavor and those of the vegetables and flavorings put with it. 

Brioche — A very rich, unsweetened, French cake made with yeast. 

Cannelon — Stuffed rolled-up meat. 

Consomm^ — Clear soup or bouillon boiled down till very rich, i. e. , consumed. 

Croquettes — A savory mince of fish or fowl, made with sauce into shapes, 
and fried. 

Croustades — Fried forms of bread to serve minces, or other meats upon. 

Entrie — A small dish usually served between the courses at dinner. 

Fondue — A light preparation of melted cheese. 

Fondant — Sugar boiled and beaten to a creamy paste. 

Hollandaise Sauce — A rich sauce, something like hot mayonnaise. 

Matelote — A rich fish stew, with wine. 

Mayonnaise— A. rich salad dressing. 

Meringue — Sugar and white of eg^ beaten to sauce. 

Marmade — A liquor of spices, vinegar, etc., in which fish or meats are steeped 
before cooking. 

Miroton — Cold meat warmed in various ways, and dished in circular form. 

Purse — This name is given to very thick soups, the ingredients for thickening 
which have been rubbed through a sieve. 

Poulette Sauce — A bechamel sauce to which white wine, and sometimes eggs 
are added. 

Ragout — A rich, brown stew, with mushrooms, vegetables, etc. 

Piquante — A sauce of several flavors, acid predominating. 

Quenelles — Forcemeat with bread, yolk of eggs, highly seasoned, and formed 
with a spoon to an oval shape; then poached and used either as a dish by them- 
selves or to garnish. 

Bemoulade—A salad dressing differing from mayonnaise in that the eggs are 
hard boiled and rubbed in a mortar with mustard, herbs, etc. 

Rissole — Rich mince of meat or fish, rolled in thin pastry and fried. 

Roux A cooked mixture of butter and flour, for thickening soups and stews. 

Salmi — A rich stew of game, cut up and dressed, when half roasted. 

Sauter — To toss meat, etc., over the fire, in a little fat. 

Souffle — A very light, much whipped-up pudding or omelette. 

Timbale — A sort of pie in a mould. 

Vol au «(?n«s— Patties of very light puff paste, made without a dish or mold, 
and filled with meats or preserves, etc. 

— Catherine Owen, m Good Housekeeping. 

429 



The hands of the cook should be always thoroughly cleansed before touching 
or handling anything pertaining to the cooking. Next, there should never be any- 
thing wasted or thrown away that can be turned to account, either for your own 
family or some family in poor circumstances. Bread that has become hard can 
be used for toasting, or for stufiBng and pudding. In warm weather any gravies 
or soups that are left from the preceding day should be boiled up and poured 
into clean pans. This is particularly necessary where vegetables have been 
added to the preparation, as it then so soon turns sour. In cooler weather, every 
other day will be often enough to warm up these things. 

In cooking, clear as you go; that is to say, do not allow a host of basins, 
plates, spoons and other utensils, to accumulate on the dressers and tables whilst 
you are engaged in preparing the dinner. By a little management and fore- 
thought, much confusion may be saved in this way. It is as easy to put a thing 
in its place when it is done with, as it is to keep continually moving it to find 
room for fresh requisites. For instance, after making a pudding, the flour-tub, 
paste-board and rolling-pin should be put away, and any basins, spoons, etc., 
should be neatly packed up near the sink, to be washed when the proper time 
arrives. Neatness, order and method should be always observed. 

Never let your stock of spices, salts, seasonings, herbs, etc., dwindle down 
so low that some day, in the midst of preparing a large dinner, you find your- 
self minus a very important ingredient, thereby causing much confusion and 
annoyance. 

After you have washed your saucepans, fish-kettle, etc. , stand them before 
the fire for a few minutes to geti thoroughly dry inside before putting them away. 
They should then be kept in a dry place, in order that they may escape the deteri- 
orating influence of rust, and thereby be quickly destroyed. Never leave sauce- 
pans dirty from one day's use to be cleaned the next; it is slovenly and untidy. 

Do not be afraid of hot water in washing up dishes and dirty cooking uten- 
sils. As these are essentially greasy, lukewarm water cannot possibly have the 
effect of cleansing them effectually. Do not be chary also of changing and 
renewing the water occasionally. You will thus save yourself much time and 
labor in the long run. 

Keep a cake of sapolio always on hand in the kitchen — always convenient for 
rubbing off stains, from earthenware, tin, glass, in fact, almost ) everthing but 
silver; it js a cheap and valuable article, and can be purchased at nearly every 
grocery in the United States. 



Small ipoints on XTable Btiquette* 

Delicacy of manner at table stamps both man and woman, for one can, at a 
glance, discern whether a person has been trained to eat well — i. e., to hold the 
knife and fork properly, to eat without the slightest sound of the lips, to drink 
quietly, to use the napkin rightly, to make no noise with any of the implements 



421 



- 4 2 2 MI SC ELLA NEO US. 

of the table, and last, but not least, to eat slowly and masticate the food tho- 
roughly. All these points should be most carefully taught to children, and then 
they will always feel at their ease at the gi-andest tables in the land. There is 
no position where the innate refinement of a person is more fully exhibited than 
at the table, and nowhere that those who have not been trained in table etiquette 
feel more keenly their deficiencies. The knife should never be used.^to carry 
food to the mouth, but only to cut it up into small mouthfuls; then place it upon 
the plate at one side, and take the fork in the right hand, and eat all the food 
with it. When both have been used finally, they should be laid diagonally. across 
the plate, with both handles towards the right hand; this is understood by weU- 
trained waiters, to be the signal for removing them, together with the plate. 

Be careful to keep the mouth shut closely while masticating the food. It is 
the opening of the lips which causes the smacking which seems very disgusting. 
Chew your food well, but do it silently, and be careful to take small mouthfuls. 
The knife can be used to cut the meat finely, as large pieces of meat are not 
healthful, and appears very indelicate. At many tables, two, three or more 
knives and forks are placed on the table, the knives at the right hand of the 
plate, the forks at the left, — a knife and a fork for each course, so that there 
need be no replacing of them after the breakfast or dinner is served. The 
smaller ones, which are for game, dessert, or for hot cakes at breakfast, can 
be tucked under the edges of the plate, and the large ones, for the meat and veg- 
etables, are placed outside of them. Be very careful not to clatter your knives 
and forks upon your plates, but use them without noise. When you aie helped 
to anything, do not wait until the rest of the "company are provided, it is not 
considered good breeding. When passing the plate for a second helping, lay 
them together at one side of the plate, with handles to the right. Soup is al- 
ways served for the first course, and it should be eaten with dessert spoons, and 
taken from the sides, not the tips of them, without any sound of the lips, and 
not sucked into the mouth audibly from the ends of the spoon. Bread should 
not be broken into soup or gravy. Never ask to be helped to soup a second time. 
The hostess may ask you to take a second plate, but you will politely decline. 
Fish chowder, which is served in soup plates, is said to be an exception which 
proves this rule, and when eating of that it is correct to take a second plateful, 
if desired. 

Another generally neglected obUgation is that of spreading butter on one's 
bread as it hes in one's plate, or but shghtly hfted at one end of the plate; it is 
very frequently buttered in the air, bitten in gouges, and still held in the face 
and eyes of the table with the marks of the teeth on it. This is certainly not 



MISCELLANEOUS. 42-3 

altogether pleasant, and it is better to cut it, a bit at a time, after buttering it, 
and put piece by piece in the mouth with one's finger and thumb. Never help 
yourself to butter, or any other food with your own knife or fork. It is not con- 
sidered good taste to mix food on the same plate. Salt must be left on the side 
of the plate and never on the table-cloth. 

Let us mention a few things concerning the eating of which there is some- 
times doubt. A cream-cake and anything of similar nature should be eaten 
with knife and fork, never bitten. Asparagus — which should be always served 
■on bread or toast, so as to absorb superfluous moisture — m'ay be taken from the 
finger and thumb; if it is fit to be set before you, the whole of it may be eaten. 
Pastry should be broken and eaten with a fork, never cut with a knife. Eaw 
oysters should be eaten with a fork, also fish. Peas and beans, as we all know, 
require the fork only; however, food that cannot be held with a fork should be 
eaten with a spoon. Potatoes, if mashed, should be mashed with the fork. 
Green com should be eaten from the cob; but it must be held with a single 
hand. 

Celery, cresses, olives, radishes, and relishes of that kind are, of course, to 
be eaten with the fingers; the salt should be laid upon one's plate, not upon the 
cloth. Fish is to be eaten with the fork, without the assistance of the knife; a 
bit of bread in the left hand sometimes helps one to master a refractory morsel. 
Fresh fruit should be eaten with a silver bladed-knife, especially pears, apples, 
etc. 

Bemes, of course, are to be eaten with a spoon. In England they are served 
with their huUs on, and three of four are considered an ample quantity. But 
then in England they are many times the size of ours; there they take the big 
berry by the stem, dip into powdered sugar, and eat it as we do the turnip rad- 
ish. It is not proper to drink with a spoon in the cup; nor ^hould one^ by-the- 
way, ever quite drain a cup or glass. 

Don't, when you drink, elevate your glass as if you were going to stana it 
inverted on your nose. Bring the glass perpendicularly to the lips, and then lift 
it to a slight angle. Do this easily. 

Drink sparingly while eating. It is far better for the digestion not to drink 
tea or coffee imtil the meal is finished. Drink gently, and do not pour it down 
yOur throat like water turned out of a pitcher. 

When seating yom-self at the table, unfold your napkin and lay it across your 
lap in such a manner that it will not slide off upon the floor; a gentleman should 
place it across his right knee. Do not tuck it into your neck, like a child's bib. 
For an old person, however, it is well to attach the napkin to a napkin hook and 



424 MISCELLANEOUS. 

elip it into the vest or dress buttonholes, to protect their garments, or sew a 
broad tape at two places on the napkin, and pass it over the head. When the 
soup is eaten, wipe the mouth carefully with the napkin, and use it to wipe the 
hands after meals. Finger howls are not a general institution, and yet they 
seem to be quite as needful as the napkin, for the fingers are also hable to be- 
come a httle soiled in eating. They can be had quite cheaply, and should be 
half-filled with water, and placed upon the side table or butler's tray, with the 
dessert, bread and cheese, etc. They are passed to each person half -filled with 
•water^ placed on a parti-colored napkin with a dessert plate underneath, when 
the dessert is placed upon the table. A leaf or two of sweet verbena, an orange 
flower, or a small slice of lemon, is usually put into each bowl to rub upon the 
fingers. The slice of lemon is most commonly used. The finger tips are slightly 
dipped into the bowl, the lemon juice is squeezed upon them, and then they are 
dried softly upon the napkin. At dinner parties and luncheons they are indis- 
pensable. 

Spoons are sometimes used with firm puddings, but forks are the better style. 
A spoon should never be turned over in the mouth. 

Ladies have frequently an afifected way of holding the knife half-way down 
its length, as if it were too big for their little hands; but this is as awkward a 
way as it is weak; the knife should be grasped freely by the handle only, the 
fore finger being the only one to touch the blade, and that only along the back 
of the blade at its root, and no further down. 

At the conclusion of a course, where they have been used, knife and fork 
should be laid side by side across the middle of the plate — never crossed; the old 
custom of crossing them was in obedience to an ancient religious formula. The 
servant should offer everything at the left of the guest, that the guest may be 
at liberty to use the right hand. If one has been given a napkin ring, it is nec- 
essary to fold one's napkin and use the ring; otherwise the napkin should be 
left unfolded. One's teeth are not to be picked at table; but if it is impossible 
to hinder it, it should be done behind the napkin. One may pick a bone at the 
table, but, as with corn, only one hand is allowed to touch it; yet one can usually 
get enough from it with knife and fork, which is certainly the more elegant way 
of doing; and to take her teeth to it gives a lady the look of caring a httle too 
much for the pleasures of the table; one is, however, on no account to suck one's 
finger after it 

Wherever there is any doubt as to the best way lo do a thing, it is wise to 
follow that which is the most rational, and that will aimost invariably be found 
to be proper etiquette. To be at ease is a great step towards enjoying your own 



MISCELLANEOUS. 425 

dinner; and making yourself agreeable to the company. There is a reason for 
everything in pohte usage; thus the reason why one does not blow a thing to 
cool it, is not only that it is an inelegant and vulgar action intrinsically, but be- 
cause it may be offensive to others — can not help being so, indeed; and it,, 
moreover implies haste, which, whether from greediness or a desire to get away, 
is equally objectionable. Everything else may be as easily traced to its origin 
in the fit and becoming. 

If, to conclude, one seats one's self properly at table, and takes reason into 
account, one aviU do tolerably well. One must not puU one's chair too closely 
to the table, for the natural result of that is the inability to use one's knife and 
fork without inconveniencing one's neighbors; the elbows are to be held well in 
and close to one's side, which cannot be done if the chair is too near the board. 
One must not lie or lean along the table, nor rest one's arms upon it. Nor is one 
to touch any of the dishes; if a member of the family, one can exercise all the du- 
ties of hospitality through servants, and wherever there are servants, neither 
family nor guests are to pass or help from any dish. FinaDy, when rising from, 
your chaii' leave it where it stands. 



2)innet*(5mng» 

THE LAYING OF THE TABLE AND THE TREATMENT 
OF GUESTS. 

In giving "dinners," the apparently trifling details are of great importance 
when taken as a whole. 

We gather around our board agreeable persons, and they pay us and our 
dinner the courtesy of dressing for the occasion, and this reunion should be a 
time of peofit as well as pleasure. There are certain established laws by which 
" dinner giving " is regulated in polite society; and it inay not be amiss to give 
few observances in relation to them. One of the first is that an invited guest 
should" arrive at the house of his host at least a quarter of an hour before the 
time appointed for dirner. In laying the table for dinner all the linen should 
be a spotless white throughout, and underneath the linen table-cloth should be 
spread one of thick cotton-flannel or baize, which gives the linen a heavier and 
finer appearance, also deadening the soimd of moving dishes. Large and neatly 



426 MISCELLANEOUS. 

folded napkins (ironed without starch), with pieces of bread three or four in- 
ches long, placed between the folds, but not to completely conceal it, are laid on 
each plate. An ornamental centre-piece, or a vase filled with a few rare flow- 
el's, is put on the centre of the table, in place of the large table-castor, which has 
gone into disuse, and is rarely seen now on well-appointed tables. A few choice 
flowers make a charming variety in the appearance of even the most simply laid 
table, and a pleasing variety at table is quite as essential to the enjoyment of the 
repast as is a good choice of dishes, for the eye in fact should be gratified as 
much as the palate. 

All dishes should be arranged in harmony with the decorations of the flowers, ' 
such as covers, relishes, confectionary, and small sweets. Garnishing of dishes 
has also a great deal to do with the appearance of a dinner-table, each dish gar- 
nished sufficiently to be in good taste without looking absurd. 

Beside each plate should be laid as many knives, forks, and spoons as will be 
required for the several courses, imless the hostess prefers to have them brought 
on with each change. A glass of water, and when wine is served glasses for it, 
and individual salt-cellars may be placed at every plate. Water-bottles are now 
much in vogue with corresponding tumblers to cover them; these, accompanied 
with dishes of broken ice, may be arranged in suitable places. When butter is 
served a special knife is used, and that, with all other required service, may be 
left to tiie judgment and taste of the hostess, in the proper placing of the various 
aids to her guests' comfort. 

The dessert plates should be set ready, each with a doily and a finger-glass 
partly filled with water, in which is dropped a slice of lemon; these, with 
extra knives, forks and spoons, should be on the side-board ready to be placed 
by the guest, between the courses when required. 

If preferred, the " dinner " may all be served from the side-table, thus reliev- 
ing the host from the task of carving. A plate is set before each guest, and the 
dish carved is presented by the waiter on the left-hand side of each guest. At 
the end of each course the plates give way for those of the next. If not served 
from the side-table, the dishes are brought in ready carved, and placed before 
the host and hostess, then served and placed upon the waiter's salver, to be laid 
by that attendant before the guest. 

Soup and fish being the first course, plates of soup are usually placed on the 
table before the dinner is announced; or if the hostess wishes the soup served at 
the table, the soup-tureen, containing hot soup, and the warm soup-plates are 
placed before the seat of the hostess. Soup and fish being disposed of, then 
come the joints or roasts, entrees (made dishes), poultry, etc., also relishes. 



MISCELLANEOUS. ^^7 

After dishes have been passed that are required no more, such as vegetables, 
hot sauces, etc. , the dishes containing them may be set upon the side^ board, ready 
to be taken away. 

Jellies and sauces, when not to be eaten as a dessert, should.be helped on the 
dinner-plate, not on a smaU side dish as was the former usage. 

If a dish be on the table, some parts of which are preferred to others, accord- 
ing to the taste of the individuals, all should have the opportunity of choice. 
The host will simply ask each one if he has any preference for a particular part; 
if he rephes in the negative, you are not to repeat the question, nor insist that 
he must have a preference. 

Do not attempt to eulogize your dishes, or apologize that you cannot recom- 
mend them, — this is extreme bad taste; as also is the vaunting of the excellence 
of yoiu- wines, etc., etc. 

Do not insist upon your guests partaking of particular dishes. Do not ask 
persons more than once, and never force a supply upon their plates. It is ill- 
bred, though common, to press any one to eat; and moreover, it is a great an- 
noyance to many. 

In winter, plates should always be warmed, but not made hot. Two kinds 
of animal food, or two kinds of dessert, should not be eaten off of one plate, and 
there should never be more than two kinds of vegetables with one course. As- 
paragus, green com, cauliflower and raw tomatoes, comprise one course in place 
of a salad. All meats should be cut across the grain in very thin sUces. Fish, 
at dinner, should be baked or boiled, never fried or broiled. Baked ham may 
be used in every course after fish, sliced thin and handed after the regular course 
is disposed of. 

The hostess should retain her plate, knife and fork, until her guests have fin- 
ished. 

The crumb brush is not used, until the preparation for bringing in the des- 
sert; then all the glasses are removed, except the flowers, the water-tumblers, 
and the glass of wine which the guest -wishes to retain with his dessert. The des- 
sert plate containing the finger-bowl, also a dessert knife and fork, should then 
be set before each guest, who at once removed the finger-bowl and its doQy, and 
the knife and fork to the table, leaving the plate ready to be used for any des- 
sert chosen. 

Finely sifted sugar should always be placed upon the table to be used with 
puddings, pies, fruit, etc., and if cream is required, let it stand by the dish it is 
to be served with. 

To lay a dessert for a small entertainment, and a few guests outside of the 



42b MISCELLANEOUS. 

family, it may consist simply of two dishes of fresh fruit in season, two of dried 
fruits aud two each of cakes and nuts. 

Coffee and tea are served lasihj, poured into tiny cups and served clear, 
passed around on a tray to each guest, then the sugar and cream passed, that 
each pereon may be allowed to season his black coffee or cafe noir to suit him- 
feelf. 

A. family dinner, even vnih. a few friends, can be made quite attractive and 
satisfactory ^vithout much display or expense; consisting first of good soup, then 
fish garnished with suitable additions, followed by a roast; then vegetables and 
some made dishes, a salad, crackers, cheese and olives, then dessert. This sen- 
sible meal, well cooked and neatly served, is pleasing to almost any one, and is 
within the means of any housekeeper in ordinary circumstances. - 



F 



FAOB. 

Beverages 397 

Ale, Mulled, or Egg Flip 406 

Beer 403 

Buttermilk as a Drink 400 

Cherry Bounce 403 

Chocolate 399 

Cocoa 400 

Cojffee 397 

Coffee, Filtered or Drip 398 

Coffee, Healing Properties of 397 

Coffee, Iced 398 

Coffee, Substitute for Cream in... 398 

Coffee, Vienna 398 

Cordial, Blackberry 403 

Cordial, Noyeau 406 

Cream Soda Without Fountain... 405 

Egg Flip, or Mulled Ale 406 

Egg Nogg 406 

Inexpensive Drink 409 

Junket, Delicious 404 

Koumiss 408 

Lemonade 407 

Lemon Syrup 405 

Mead, Sassafras 405 

Pineappleade 409 

Punch , 406 

Punch, Roman 404 

Easpberry Shrub 404 

Syrup, Lemon 404 

Syrup,Strawberry and Raspberry 407 
The Healing Properties of Tea or 

Coffee 397 

Tea, Iced 399 

Tea, To Make 399 

Vinegar 408 

Wine, Blackberry 401 

Wine, Currant 401 

Wine, Grape 401 

Wine, Honey or Methelin 402 

Wine, Orange, Florida 402 

Wine, Raisin 403 

Wine, Whey 405 



FAOB. 

Bbead 211 

Bread, Brown, Boston, 216 

Bread, Compressed Yeast 213 

Bread, Corn 219 

Bread, Corn and Rye 218 

Bread, French 218 

Bread, German 219 

Bread, Graham 216 

Bread, Milk Yeast 215 

Bread, Rye 217 

Bread, Rye and Corn 218 

Bread, Self-Raising 215 

Bread, Twist 218 

Bread, Wheat .' 213 

Cake, Corn 219 

Cake, Indian Loaf 220 

Cake, Johnnie 220 

Cake, Potato, Raised 221 

Southern Corn Meal Pone,|or Corn 

Dodgers .". 221 

Yeast 215 

Biscuits, Rolls, Muffins, Etc.: 321 

Biscuit, Baking Powder 223 

Biscuit, Beaten 225 

Biscuit, Egg 224 

Biscuit, Graham (With Yeast) 224 

Biscuit, Grafton Milk 226 

Biscuit, Light 224 

Biscuit, Potato 226 

Biscuit, Raised 223 

Biscuit, Soda 223 

Biscuit, Sour Milk 223 

Biscuit, Vinegar 226 

Bread, Warm for Breakfast 222 

Bread Crumbs, Prepared 242 

Buns, London Hot Cross 227 

Cake, Newport Breakfast 241 

Cakes, Buckwheat 236 

Cakes, Drop 233 

Cakes, Flannel (With Yeast) , 233 

Cakes, Tea, Berry 232 

Cakes, Griddle 234 



429 



430 



INDEX. 



PAQB. 

BiscriTS, Rolls, Muffins, Etc. — Cont. 

Cannelons, or Fried Puffs 238 

Cracked Wheat 245 

Crackers 242 

Cracknels 228 

Croquettes 244 

Crumpets 242 

Fritters 237 

Gems, Graham 230 

Hominy 244 

Hulled Corn or Samp 245 

Muffins 229 

Mush, Corn Meal, or Hasty Pud- 
ding 243 

Mush, Fried 243 

Oat Flakes 245 

Oat Meal 243 

Oat Meal, Steamed 245 

Popovers 233 

Prepared Bread Crumbs 242 

Puff Balls 241 

Puffs, Breakfast, 243 

Rolls, Dinner, Fried 241 

Rolls 224 

Rice, Boiled 244 

Rusks 227 

Sally Lunn 226 

Samp, or Hulled Corn 245 

Scones, Scotch 228 

Short Cake 240 

Waffles 231 

Butter and Cheese 194 

Butter 194 

Cheese 196 

Cheese Straws, Cayenne 198 

Curds and Cream 195 

Pastry Ramakins 197 

Rarebit, Welsh 198 

Slip 196 

Welsh Rarebit 198 

Cake, Etc 251 

Sugg-estions in Regard to Cake 

Making 251 

Cake, Almond 267 

Cake, Angel 266 



Cake, Etc. — Continued: 

Cake, Bread or Raised 256 

Cake, Bride 259 

Cake, Chocolate 262 

Cake, Citron 260 

Cake, Cocoanut 363 

Cake, Coffee 264 

Cake, Cream 264 

Cake, Cream, Whipped 268 

Cake, Custard or Cream 271 

Cake, Delicate 260 

Cake, Election 264 

Cake, Feather 264 

Cake, Fruit 256 

Cake, Ginger Bread 272 

Cake, Gold 261 

Cake, Gold and Silver 273 

Cake, Golden Spice 267 

Cake, Golden Cream 264 

Cake, Gold or Lemon 261 

Cake, Hickory Nut or Walnut. ... 271 

Cake, Huckleberry 274 

Cake, Jelly 268 

Cake, Layer, To Cut 268 

Cake, Lemon 260 

Cake, Lemon or Gold 261 

Cake, Loaf 262 

Cake, Marble 261 

Cake, Pound 260 

Cake, Queen's 266 

Cake, Ribbon 266 

Cake, Silver or Delicate 261 

Cake, Snow (Delicious) 261 

Cake, Sponge 257 

Cake, Sweet Strawberry 274 

Cake, White Mountain 265 

Cake, Without Eggs 265 

Cake, Fillings 269 to 271 

Cakes, Corn Starch 277 

Cakes, Cream Boston 273 

Cakes, Cup 276 

Cakes, Cup, Molasses 274 

Cakes, Fancy 275 

Cakes, Fried, or Doughnuts 281 

Cakes, Jelly, Brunswick 278 



INDEX. 



431 



PAGE. 

X3ake, Etc. — Continued: 

Cakes, Molasses Cup 274 

Cakes, Nut, Fried 283 

Cakes, Peach 276 

Cakes, Plum, .Mttle 279 

Cakes, Variegated 277 

Cookies 280 

Crullers, or Fried Cakes 281-2 

Doughnuts 281-2 

Drops, Sponge 277 

Dominoes 275 

Eclairs, Chocolate 273 

Frosting, or Icing 253 

Gingerbread 272 

Ginger Biscuit, White 273 

Ginger Cookies 275 

Ginger Snaps 274 

Icing 254 

Jumbles 279 

Lady Fingers, or Savory Biscuit. 277 

Neapolitaines 278 

Sandwiches, Pastry 278 

Savory Biscuit 277 

Trifles 283 

Wafers 276 

€annkd Fexjits and Vegetables... 389 

Boiled Cider, Canned 393 

Canned Corn 392 

Canned Fruit Juices 391 

Canned Grapes 390 

Canned Mince Meat 393 

Canned Peaches 390 

Canned Peas 392 

Canned Pineapple 391 

Canned Plums 392 

Canned Pumpkin 393 

Canned Quinces 391 

Canned Strawberries 390 

Canned Tomatoes 391 

Peach Butter 393 

Peaches Dried with Sugar 394 

To Can Corn 392 

To Can Peas '. 392 

To Can Pineapple 391 



PAGE. 

Carving: 2 

Beef, Hind-Quarter 2 

Beef, Fore-Quarter 2 

Beef, Sirloin of 8 

Duck, Roast 18 

Fowls, Roast 17 

Goose, Roast 17 

Ham, Roast 14 

Lamb, Fore-Quarter 13 

Mackerel 20 

Mutton 5 

Mutton, Leg of 12 

Partridges 18 

Pheasant 19 

Pigeons 19 

Pork 6 

Salmon, Boiled 20 

Turkey, Roast 16 

Veal, Breast of 9 

Veal, Fore-Quarter 4 

Veal, Fillet of 10 

Veal, Hind-Quarter 4 

Veal, Neck of 11 

Venison 7 

Venison, Hannch of 15 

Catsups : 

Catsup, Various 156 

Vinegar, Celery 158 

Vinegar, Spiced 159 

Cocoa. (See Beverages) 

Chocolate. (See Bev^erages) 

Coffee. (See Beverages) 

CUSTAEDS, CbEAMS AND DESERTS 305 

Almonds, Salted or Roasted 325 

Apples, Stewed 328 

Blanc Mange 318 

Cake, Peach 325 

Charlotte, Fruit, etc 320 

Chestnuts, Roast 325 

Cream, Bavarian, etc 310 

Cream, For Fruit 315 

Cream, Golden 311 

Cream, Italian 313 

Cream, Lemon 311 



43» 



INDEX. 



CusTABDS, Creams and Deserts— Con/. 
Cream, Mock, or Boiled Custard.. 307 

Cream Pie 324 

Cream, Snow 314 

Cream, Tapioca Custard 313 

Cream, Velvet, with Strawberry. 324 

Cream, Whipped 309 

Croutons, After Dinner 325 

Crystallized Fruit 327 

Custard 308 

Dessert Puffs 325 

Float 314 

Floating Island 318 

Fritters, Jelly 328 

Fruit, Crystallized 327 

Fruit Short Cake 325 

Gooseberry Fool '. 329 

Honey, Lemon 317 

Jelly, Cider 332 

Jelly Kisses 330 

Jelly, Lemon, etc 331 

Jelly, Wine 331 

Kisses, Jelly 330 

Kisses or Meringues 329 

Meringue, Corn Starch 324 

Meringue, Peach 314 

Meringues or Kisses 329 

Macaroons 331 

Mock Ice 314 

Naples Biscuit, or Charlotte Russe 322 

Omelet, Sweet 326 

Peaches and Cream 327 

Pears, Baked, etc 328 

Puffs, Dessert 325 

Quinces, Baked 329 

Salad of Mixed Fruits 327 

Salad, Orange Cocoanut 327 

Short Cakes, Fruit .... 325 

Snow Pyramid 328 

Snow, Apple, etc 316 

Sponge, Lemon, etc 315 

Syllabub 315 

Toast, Lemon 326 

Trifle, Fruit 316 

Washington Pie 324 



PAOK. 

Dinner Giving 435 

Dressings and Sauces 138 

Dumplings and Puddings 339 

Eggs AND Omelets: 199 

Eggs and Bacon, Mixed 203 

Eggs, aux Fines Herbes 202 

Eggs, Boiled 200 

Eggs, Boiled, Soft 200 

Eggs, Cold, for Picnic 203 

Eggs, Fried 201 

Eggs, in Cases 202 

Eggs, Minced 203 

Eggs, Mixed, generally: savory 

or sweet 203 

Eggs, Poached, a la Creme 203 

Eggs, Poached or Dropped 201 

Eggs, Scalloped 200 

Eggs, Scrambled 201 

Eggs, Shirred 200 

Eggs, To preserve 199 

Omelets 203 

Omelet, Souffle 208 

Fish 41 

Fish, to Fry 43 

Modes of Frying 40 

Fish and Oyster Pie 45 

Bass, Boiled 47 

Blue Fish 47 

Chowder (Rhode Island) 54 

Clams 68 

Codfish 54 

Crabs 61 

Crab Croquettes 61 

Crab Pie 61 

Crabs, Soft Shell 62 

Fritters 56 

Frogs 69 

Halibut 48 

Fish, in White Sauce 53 

Lobster 59 

Lobster Croquettes and Patties.... 60 

Mackerel, fresh 52 

Mackerel, salt 51 

Mackerel, Spanish 51 

Mayonnaise 54 



INDEX. 



433 



Fish — Continued: 

Mode of Frying 40 

Oysters 62 

Oyster Fritters 65 

Oyster Patties 65 

Oyster Pie (Boston) 66 

Oyster Pot Pie 66 

Oysters, Mock 67 

Pickerel 43 

Pie 45 

Potted (fresh) 53 

Potted 53 

Salmon 43 

Salmon, Pickled 44 

Salmon, Smoked 45 

Scalloped 55 

-Shad 46 

Shad Roe (to cook) o 47 

Sheepshead, with Drawn Butter 47 

Smelts 50 

Steamed 46 

Sturgeon, Fresh Steak Marinade 53 

Trout, Brook 49 

Trout, Salmon 50 

"White 48 

Scallops 69 

Terrapin 57 

Turtle or Terrapin Stew 57 

French Words in CooKiNa 430 

GAJLE and POUIiTKY 70 

Ice Creams and Ices 334 

Cream, Fruit 336 

Frozen Fruits 337 

Ices 337 

Ice Creams 334 

Ice Cream, Without a Freezer 336 

Sherbet 337 

. Jellies and Preserves 376 

Macaroni 193 

Meats 94 

Beef 96 

Beef a la Mode 99 

Beef , Brisket of , Stewed 106 

Beef, Cold Roast, Warmed 107 



FASB. 

Beep — Continued: 

Beef Croquettes 106 

Beef, Corned or Salted (Red) 102 

Beef, Dried 104 

Beef, Dried, with Cream 106 

Beef , Flank of , to Collar 101 

Beef, Frizzled 104 

Beef Hash 108 

Beef Heart, Stewed 109 

Beef Heart, to Roast 109 

Beef Kidney, Stewed 109 

Beef Liver, Fried 105 

Beef, Pot Roast (Old Style) 98 

Beef, Pressed 105 

Beef, Roast 96 

Beef Pie 103 

Beef, Spiced 99 

Beef, Spiced, Relish 105 

Beefsteak 97 

Beefsteak and Onions 98 

Beefsteak and Oysters 98 

Beefsteak, Stewed 100 

Beefsteak, Flank 104 

Beefsteak, Hamburger 109 

Beefsteak Pie 103 

Beefsteak Rolls 101 

Beefsteak, Smothered 101 

Beef Stew, French 105 

Beef , Tenderloin of 100 

Beef, To Clarify Drippings of Ill 

Beef Tongue 110 

Beef, To Pot 105 

Brain Cutlets 118 

Calf's Head 117 

Calf's Head Cheese 117 

Calf's Liver and Bacon 118 

Meat and Potato Croquettes 107 

Meat Cold, and Potatoes, Baked.. 108 

Meat, Thawing Frozen, Etc 95 

Meat, To Keep From Flies 96 

Sweetbreads , 119 

Tripe 110 

Veal, Braised 117 

Veal, Cheese 114 

Veal Chops Fried (Plain) 113 



434 



INDEX. 



FAeE. 

Beef — Continued: 

Veal Collops 113 

Veal Croquettes 114 

Veal Cutlets 113 

Veal, Fillet of 112 

Veal for Lunch 116 

Veal, Loaf ... 116 

Veal, Loin of, Roast Ill 

Veal Olives 113 

Veal Patties 116 

Veal Pie 115 

Veal Pot Pie 114 

Veal Pudding 112 

Veal Stew 115 

Yorkshire Pudding, For Veal 97 

Lamb AND Muttok 120 

Lamb, Croquettes' of Odds and 

Ends of 127 

Lamb, Fore-Quarter of. To Broil. 126 

Lamb, Pressed 126 

Lamb, Quarter of, Roasted 125 

Lamb Stew 126 

Lamb Sweetbreads and Tomato 

Sauce 125 

Mutton, Boned Leg of, Roasted.... 120 

Mutton Chops, Broiled 122 

Mutton Chops, Fried 123 

Mutton Cutlets (Baked) 123 

Muttonettes 124 

Mutton, Hashed 122 

Mutton, Irish Stew 124 

Mutton, Leg of, a la Venison 121 

Mutton, Leg of 121 

Mutton Pudding 124 

Mutton, Roast 120 

Mutton, Scalloped, and Tomatoes 125 
Mutton, Scrambled 125 

Pork 127 

Bacon and Eggs, Cold 133 

Bacon, To Cure English 133 

Cheese, Head 136 

Ham and Eggs, Fried 132 

Ham 134 

Ham, To Bake a (Corned) 133 

Hani, Potted 134 



^. ^ PA6K 

PoRK — Continued: 

Ham and Bacon, To Cure 136 

Hams and Fish, To Smoke at 

Home 136 

Head Cheese 136 

Lard, To Try Out 137 

Pig, Roast 127 

Pigs' Feet, Pickled 133 

Pork and Beans 131 

Pork Chops 130 

Pork Cutlets 130 

Pork, Fresh, Pot Pie 129 

Pork, Leg of 128 

Pork, Loin of, Roast 128 

Pork Pie 13a 

Pork, Pot Pie 131 

Pork, Salt 132 

Pork, Spare Ribs of. Roasted 129 

. Pork Tenderloin 129 

Roast Pig 127 

Sausages 135 

Sausages, To Fry 135 

Scrappel 133 

Measuees AND Weights 429 

Pastry, Pies and Tarts: 284 

How to Make a Pie 285 

Icing Pastry 285 

Crust, Potato 288 

Chess Cakes 305 

Maids of Honor 304 

Mince Meat Mock, Without 

Meat 301 

Meat for Mince Pies (Cooked) 300 

Patties or Shells for Tarts 289 

Pie, Apple 289 

Pie, Apricot Meringue 291 

Pie, Berry, Ripe 297 

Pie, Blackberry 296 

Pie, Cocoanut 291 

Pie, Cherry 295 

Pastry, Pies, and Tarts: 

Pie, Cranberry 298 

Pie, Cranberry Tart 298 

Pie, Cream 293 

Pie, Currant 295 



INDEX. 



435 



PASIS. 

Pastky, Pees, and '^ksx^—ConUnued: 

Pie, Custard 293-4 

Pie, Dried Fruit 297 

Pie, Fruit, German 304 

Pie, Gooseberry 298 

Pie, Grape 297 

Pie, Huckleberry 296 

Pie, Jelly and Preserved Fruit.... 298 

Pie, Lemon 392 

Pie, Lemon, Raisin 296 

Pie, Mince 300 

Pie, Molasses 296 

Pie, Orange 293 

Pie, Peach 297 

Pie, Pineapple 297 

Pie, Plum and Damson 297 

Pie, Pumpkin 299 

Pie, Rhubarb 296 

Pie, Ripe Berry 297 

Pie, Squash 299 

Pie, Sweet Potato 299 

Pie, Tomato, Green 295 

Pie Crust, Plain 287 

Pie Crust, Rule for Undercrust... 287 

PufE Paste 286 

PufE Paste, Soyer's Recipe for 287 

Pumpkin or Squash for Pies 298 

Tartlets 288 

Tarts 289 

Turnover, Fruit, Suitable for 
Picnics 301 

Pickles: 159 

Green Pepper Mangoes 162 

Piccalili 165 

Pickle, An Ornamental 165 

Pickle, East India 165 

Pickle, Pear 167 

Pickle, Sweet, for Fruit 167 

Pickle, Watermelon 167 

Pickled Butternuts and Walnuts. 166 

Pickled Cabbage 161 

Pickled Cherries 168 

Pickled Cauliflower 162 

Pickled Eggs 165 

Pickled Green Peppers 162 



FASX. 

Pickles — Continued: 

Pickled Mangoes 163 

Pickled Mushrooms 161 

Pickled Onions 163 

Pickled Oysters 164 

Pickles, Blue-berry 166 

Pickles, Chow Chow ( Superior 

English Recipe ) 163 

Pickles, Cucumber 159 

Pickles, Cucumber, Ripe 164 

Pickles, Cucumbers, Sliced 160 

Pickles, East India 165 

Pickles, Mixed 166 

Pickles, Green Tomato (Sweet)... 160 

Spiced Currants 168 

Spiced Grapes 168 

Spiced Plums 168 

POULTEY AND GAME: 70 

Chicken, Boiled 75 

Chicken, Breaded 80 

Chicken, Broiled or Toast 80 

Chicken Broiled 77 

Chicken Croquettes 78 

Chicken Croquettes, To Fry 79 

Chicken Cwrry 81 

Chicken Dressed as Terrapin 83 

Chicken, Fried 78 

Chicken Fricassee ^ 75 

Chicken, Lunch for Traveling 79 

Chicken, Maccaroni and 84 

Chicken Patties 77 

Chicken, Pickled 76 

Chicken Pie 77 

Chicken Pot-pie 81 

Chicken, Potted 80 

Chicken, Pressed 79 

Chicken Pudding 83 

Chicken, Rissoles of 76 

Chicken, Roast 74 

Chicken Roley-Poley 83 

Chicken, Scalloped 80 

Chicken, Steamed 75 

Chicken, Stewed (Whole Spring). 76 

Chicken, Stewed With Biscuit 83 

Chicken Turnovers 83 



436 



INDEX. 



FAGS. 

Poultry and Game — Continued: 

Dressing or Stuffing for Fowls... 72 

Duck, Canvas Back 86 

Duck, Tame 84 

Duck, Wild 86 

Game Pie 88 

Game, Salmi of 90 

Goose, Roast 74 

Goose, To Roast 88 

Hare, Roast 89 

Partridges, To Roast, Etc 88 

Pigeons 86 

Pigeon Pie 87 

Quail, To Roast 88 

Quail, To Roast, Etc 88 

Rabbits 89 

Reed Birds »..., 88 

Salmi of Game 90 

Snipe 88 

Snow Birds 89 

Squab Pot-Pie 87 

Squirrels 89 

Turkey 71 

Venison 91 

Woodcock 87 

Preserves, Jellies, Etc.: 376 

A New Way of Keeping Fruit 388 

Brandied Peaches or Pears 387 

Jam 387 

Jellies, Fruit 383 

Macedoines 388 

Marmalade 386 

Orange Syrup 386 

Pine Apple Preserves 380 

Preserved Fruit 377 

Preserving Fruit (New Mode) 382 

Preserving Fruit (New Method of) 383 
Raisins (A French Marmalade).... 386 
To Preserve and Dry Green 

Gages 381 

To Preserve Berries Whole 378 

To Preserve Fruit Without Sugar 382 
To Preserve Water Melon and 

Citron Rind 380 



PAOK^ 

Puddings and Dumplings 339 

A Royal Dessert 370 

Batter, Common 343 

Berry Rolls, Baked 368 

Cobler, Peach 367 

Currants, To Clean 341 

Dumplings 341 

Dumplings, Rice, Boiled (Custard 

Sauce) 342 

Puffets, Apple, Boiled 343 

Pudding, Almond 344 

Pudding, Apple and Brown Bread 346 

Pudding, Apple 344 

Pudding, Banana 367 

Pudding, Batter 347 

Pudding, Berry, Cold 345 

Pudding, Blackberry and Whor- 
tleberry 364 

Pudding, Bird's Nest 344 

Pudding, Bread and Butter 344 

Pudding, Cabinet 354 

Pudding, Cherry, Boiled or 

SteaiTi'l 352 

Pudding, Chocolate 357 

Pudding' Cocoanut 352 

Pudding, Cold Fruit 349 

Pudding, Corn Meal 351 

Pudding, Corn Meal, Fruit 360 

Pudding, Corn Meal Puffs 351 

Pudding, Corn Starch 349 

Pudding, Christmas Plum, By 

Measure 353 

Pudding, Cottage 352 

Pudding, Cracker 350 

Pudding, Cranberry, Baked 355 

Pudding, Cream 349 

Pudding, Cuban 350 

Pudding, Currant, Boiled 364 

Pudding, Custard 348 

Pudding, Delmonico 361 

Pudding, English Plum (The 

Genuine) 353 

Pudding, Fig 359 

Pudding, Fruit 360-4 

Pudding, Fruit, Cold 349 



INDEX. 



437 



Puddings and Dumplings — Continued: 

Pudding-, Corn Meal 360 

Pudding, Fruit, PufE 366 

Pudding, Fruit, Rice 363 

Pudding, Graham 366 

Pudding, Green Corn 368 

Pudding, Hominy 368 

Pudding, Huckleberrj^ Baked.... 364 

Pudding, Indian, Delicate 351 

Pudding, Jelly 369 

Pudding, Lemon (Queen of Pud- 
dings) 355 

Pudding, Minute 369 

Pudding, Nantucket 361 

Pudding, Orange 355 

Pudding, Orange, Roley Poley ... 365 

Pudding, Peach, Dried 367 

Pudding, Peach, Pear and Apple. 359 
Pndding, Pie Plant or Rhubarb.. 360 

Pudding, Pineapple 365 

Pudding, Plum, English (The 

Genuine) 353 

Pudding, Plum, Baked 354 

Pudding, Without Eggs 354 

Pudding, Prune 364 

Pudding, Quick 370 

Pudding, Raspberry 359 

Pudding, Ready 370 

Pudding, Rhubarb or Pie Plant... 360 

Pudding, Rice, Boiled 363 

Pudding, Rice 362 

Pudding, Roley Poley 365 

Pudding, Sago 357 

Pudding, Saucer 361 

Pudding, Snow 361 

Pudding, Sponge Cake 366 

Pudding, Strawberry Tapioca 359 

Pudding, Suet 367 

Pudding, Sunderland 369 

Pudding, Sweet Potato 365 

Pudding, Tapioca 358 

Pudding, Tapioca, Apple 345 

Pudding, Toast 362 

Pudding, Transparent 365 



PAGE. 

Puddings and Dusiplings — Continued: 
Pudding, Whortleberry and 

Blackberry 349 

Geneva Wafers 368 

Huckleberries With Crackers and 

Cream 370 

Royal Dessert, A 379 

To Chop Suet 341 

To Stone Raisins 341 

Salads AND Dressings 149 

Celery, Undressed 155 

Cucumbers, To Dress Raw 155 

Dressing, Cream Salad 150 

Dressing for Cold Slaw 150 

Dressing, Mayonnaise 149 

Dressing, Salad, French 150 

Endive 154 

Horse Radish 156 

Lettuce 156 

Peppergrass and Cress 155 

Radishes 155 

Salad, Celery 154 

Salad, Chicken 151 

Salad, Lobster 151 

Salad, Potato 154 

Salad, Summer, Mixed 151 

Salad, Tomato 154 

Slaw, Cold 153 

Slaw, Hot 153 

Slaw, Cold, Dressing for 150 

Sandwiches 309 

A.UCES AND Dressings for Meats.... 138 

Butter, Drawn = 138 

Butter, To Brown 145 

Cocoanut Prepared (For Pies, 

Puddings, Etc.) 146 

Curry Powder 145 

Curry Sauce 145 

Flour, To Brown 145 

Herbs for Winter 147 

Mustard, French 145 

Mustard, To Make 145 

Meats and Their Accompani- 
ments 147 

Omelet, Apple 144 



438 



INDEX. 



PAOB. 

Sauces and Dressings, Etc. — Gont. 

Pepper, Kitchen 146 

Sauce, Apple 143 

Sauce, Bechamel 141 

Sauce, Bread 140 

Sauce, Brown 141 

Sauce, Caper 140 

Sauce, Celery 140 

Sauce, Chili 141 

Sauce, Cranberry 144 

Sauce, Curry, 145 

Sauce, Egg or White 138 

Sauce, Fish 139 

Sauce, For Boiled Cod 139 

Sauce, For Salmon and Other Fish 139 

Sauce, Hollandaise 142 

Sauce, Jelly, Currant 142 

Sauce, Lobster 139 

Sauce, Maitre d'Hotel 142 

Sauce, Mint 141 

Sauce, Mushroom 143 

Sauce, Onion 141 

Sauce, Oyster 138 

Sauce, Tartare 138 

Sauce, Tomato 140 

Sauce, Wine, For Game 142 

Spices 146 

Vegetables Appropriate to Dif- 
ferent Dishes 148 

Vegetables for Breakfast 148 

Vinegar, Cucumber 144 

Vinegar, Flavored 144 

Warm Dishes for Breakfast 148 

Sauces for Puddings 371 

Brandy, Cold 371 

Brandy, Liquid 372 

Brady or Wine 371 

Caramel 373 

Cream, Cold 373 

Cream, Warm 373 

Custard 374 

Fruit 374 

Grandmother's 372 

Hard, Plain, Cold 374 

Jelly 374 



PAOB. 

Sauces for Puddings — Continued. 

Lemon 372 

Milk or Cream 374 

Old Style 374 

Orange Cream 373 

Plain, A Good 373 

Plum Pudding, Superior 372 

Sugar 372 

Sweet, Common 375 

Syrup for Fruit 375 

Wine, Rich 371 

Lemon Brandy for Cakes and 

Puddings 375 

Rose Brandy for Cakes and Pud- 
dings 375 

Sick, Cooking for the 410 

Acid Drinks 418 

Apples, Baked 414 

Arrowroot Blanc Mange 412 

Arrowroot Milk Porridge 412 

Arrowroot Wine Jelly 413 

Baked Apples 414 

Beefsteak and Mutton Chops 410 

Beef Tea 411 

Blackberry Cordial 417 

Blanc Mange, Arrowroot „ 412 

Blanc Mange, Irish Moss 416 

Broth, Veal or Mutton 411 

Broth, Clam 415 

Broth, Chicken 411 

Boiled Rice 414 

Bread Panada 416 

Chicken Jelly 414 

Chicken Broth 411 

Clam Broth ~ 415 

Codfish, Milk or Cream 416 

Cornmeal Gruel 411 

Cracker Panada 416 

Cup Pudding 414 

Cup Pudding, Tapioca 414 

Cup Custard - 415 

Egg Gruel 412 

Egg Toast 415 

Flax Seed Tea 413 

Flax Seed Lemonade 413 



INDEX. 



439 



PAGX. 

Sick, Cooking for the — Continued. 

For Children Teething 417 

Gruel, Corn Meal 411 

Gruel, Egg 412 

Gruel, Oat Meal 411 

Hominy 413 

Irish Moss Blanc Mange 415 

Jelly, Arrowroot Wine 413 

Jelly, Chicken 414 

Jelly, Mulled 416 

Jelly, Sago 413 

Jelly, Tapioca 412 

Linseed Tea 417 

Milk Porridge 412 

Milk or Cream Codfish 416 

Milk Toast, Plain 417 

Mulled Jelly 415 

Mutton Chops and Beefsteak 410 

Mutton or Veal Broth 411 

Oat Meal Gruel 411 

Oyster Toast 415 

Panada, Bread 416 

Panada, Cracker 416 

Porridge, Milk 412 

Porridge, Arrowroot Milk 412 

Pudding, Cup ... 414 

Pudding, Cup, Tapioca 414 

Rice, Boiled 414 

Sago Jelly 413 

Soft Toast 414 

Slippery Elm Tea 416 

Slippery Elm Bark Tea 412 

Tamarind Water 413 

Tapioca Jelly 412 

Tea, Beef 411 

Tea, Flax Seed 413 

Tea, Linseed 417 

Tea, Slippery Elm 412 

Tea, Slippery Elm Bark 412 

Toast, Water, or Crust Coffee 416 

Toast, Milk, Plain 417 

Toast, Egg 415 

Toast, Oyster 415 

Toast, Soft 414 

Veal or Mutton Broth 411 



Soups 31 

Asparagus, Cream of 27 

Bean (Dried) 29 

Beef 25 

Bisque, or Lobster 38 

Calf's Head or Mock Turtle 32 

Celery 35 

Chicken Cream 27 

Clam, Plain and French 39 

Consomme 27 

Corn 28 

Croutons for 37 

Dumpling, Egg, for 36 

Dumpling, Suct, for 37 

Egg Balls for 36 

Pish 38 

Force Meat Balls for 36 

Force Meat (Soyer's Recipe) 37 

Game 26 

Gumbo or Okra 33 

Herbs and Vegetables Used in 23 

Julienne 26 

Lobster, or Bisque 38 

Maccaroni 33 

Mullagatawney 31 

Mutton Broth (Scotch) 25 

Noodles for 36 

Onion 34 

Okra or Gumbo 33 

Ox Tail 28 

Oyster 38 

Pea 36 

Pea (Green) 29 

Pea, Split 29 

Pepper Pot (Philadelphia) 30 

Plain, Economical 27 

Potato (Irish) 35 

Spinach, Cream of 27 

Squirrel 30 

Stock 24 

Stock Fish 38 

Stock, To Clarify 25 

Tapioca Cream 34 

Tomato 31 

Turtle, Mock 32 



440 



INDEX 



Soups — Co n tinned: 

Turtle, Green 32 

Turtle, From Beans 30 

Turkey 33 

Veal (Excellent) 25 

Vegetable 34 

Vermicelli.. 35 

White (Swiss) 35 

Table Etiquette, Small Points On 421 

Toast 246 

American 246 

Apple 250 

Cheese 247 

Chicken Hash with Rice 250 

Codfish on (Cuban Style) 249 

Cream 246 

Eggs on 248 

Eggs Baked on 248 

Halibut on 249 

Ham 248 

Hashed Beef on 249 

Milk 246 

Minced Fowls on 248 

Mushrooms on 247 

Nuns' 246 

Oyster 247 

Reed Birds on 248 

Tomato 248 

Veal Hash on 249 

Vegetables 169 

Asparagus 187 

Beans 185 

Beets 186 

Cabbage 177 

Carrots 189 

Cauliflower 177 

Celery 185 

Corn, Green 183 

Corn Pudding 183 

Corn Succotash 184 

Cucumbers 183 

Cymblings, or Squashes 188 

Egg Plant 184 

Endive, Stewed 190 



PASS. 

Vegetables — Continued: 

Greens 189 

Mushrooms 190 

Okra 186 

Onions 176 

Oyster Plant or Salsify 185 

Parsnips 180 

Peas, Green 187 

Potato Croquettes 174 

Potato Fillets 173 

Potato Puffs 171 

Potato Snow 173 

Potatoes, a la Creme 171 

Potatoes, a la Delmonico 174 

Potatoes, Baked 175 

Potatoes, Browned — With Roast.. 175 

Potatoes, Browned 170 

Potatoes, Crisp 173 

Potatoes, Favorite, Warmed 173 

Potatoes, Fried, with Eggs 174 

Potatoes, Hasty Cooked 173 

Potatoes, Ly onnaise 173 

Potatoes, Mashed 170 

Potatoes, Mashed, Warmed Over.. 170 

Potatoes, New, and Cream 171 

Potatoes, New, To Boil 169 

Potatoes, Raw, Fried 171 

Potatoes, Saratoga Chips 171 

Potatoes, Scalloped (Kentucky 

style) 172 

Potatoes, Steamed 172 

Potatoes, Sweet 175 

Pumpkin, Stewed 190 

Rice, To Boil 179 

Salsify or Oyster Plant 185 

Sour-Krout 179 

Spinach 188 

Squashes, or Cymblings 188 

String Beans 185 

Succotash 184 

Tomatoes 181 

Tomatoes, Raw, To Prepare 183 

Truffles 191 

Turnips 190 

Vegetable Hash 188 



m^' 






t,. 



I'lii't- 







,t(|||- ■ J.liMJ 



1 T (I-', '.-.■. ,:-:j 



